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Thread: my front end thread

  1. #1
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    my front end thread

    The tire shop (the same one that cross-threaded my lugnut) told me my right outer tie rod was just starting to go bad months ago, but they said it wasn't of immediate concern so I postponed it. Since i'm not well versed in front end diagnosis I watched a youtube video, and based on that I ordered both outer tie rods. Then I watched a better video and decided I may not have driver side tie rod problems at all but I most definitely have a right INNER tie rod problem. It's kind of hard to diagnose the outer when the inner is bad, without a helper or without disconnecting it. Since i already bought the outer I might as well replace it with the inner.

    Anyway do you need a special tool for inner tie rod on Previas? I haven't taken off the little access cover to a good look at it yet. I am going to take it to an alignment shop and have them diagnosis whatever else may be wrong, and then fix it all myself before getting an alignment.

  2. #2
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    Re: my front end thread

    When I did my inners a few years ago a mechanic friend loaned me his personal tool. It was awesome and made the job fairly straightforward. I recall thinking that a tool like this was essential to avoid otherwise inevitable nightmarish scenarios involving the copious discharge of profanity and blood. The tool was a self-adjusting Matco inner tie rod tool ITRT299. It no longer seems to be available and I bet it was expensive. Maybe ebay? I'm sure there are other similar tools which work well, but this one comes recommended by me - a suspension 101 student.

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    Re: my front end thread

    Sounds like I better make friends with a mechanic.


    Well its the summer of blood anyway. i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal. And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.

    Harbor freight makes a reasonably priced tool https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-58391.html
    All depends on if I want to believe the 5 star reviews or the 1 star reviews.

    I also found a cheaper Matco tool for "smooth" tie rod ends but I don't know if mine are smooth. I'm guessing no.
    https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/ITRT94?

    Firestone charges 120 for an alignment and 20 for an inspection. I've read indie shops are more knowledgeable (which i suspected was the case) so I called one. Free inspection and 80 dollar alignment. Going for the inspection tomorrow so maybe i will sneak a good look at that inner tie rod end.

  4. #4
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    Re: my front end thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Previologist View Post
    i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal.
    Two words for ya. Bump Cap. Check them out on Home Depot for example. I've occasionally been told I wind up looking like Darth Vader with the PPE I tend to wear, but unlike Vader, I can take it off later and be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Previologist View Post
    And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.
    One word. Ironclad Look for them on ebay for lower prices. Not for touch-sensitive work but great for still being able to count to 10 later without using your toes. (Yes, also steel-toed shoes/boots for anything determined to head straight through your feet into the ground).

    If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.

    For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA

    Quote Originally Posted by Previologist View Post
    Firestone (or Midas or whoever)
    Hopefully well-rated, but in any case, tell them to do what you ask and Not. Touch. Anything. Else. You wouldn't be surprised how easy it is to break someone's old crustified plastic & rubber parts while moving and disconnecting stuff looking for extra "suggested maintenance" items to charge for. The quickie electrical-tape patch on your air intake - or whatever else they didn't reconnect or broke- is going to be the reason for the next check-engine-light.

    And don't be surprised when when the kid looks at your my-friend's-mom-had-one-of-those van and says "How do you pronounce that? 'Pree-vee-yuh?'"
    "If you find yourself holding a sledgehammer or a crowbar, it's time for a break."

  5. #5
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    Re: my front end thread

    Quote Originally Posted by man_btc View Post
    Two words for ya. Bump Cap.
    I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

    One word. Ironclad
    Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

    If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.
    I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.

    For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA
    Nope, nobody seems to rent them.

    I got the older more experienced guy at the shop and he said both outer tie rods are good (so glad I bought those already...grrr) and right lower ball joint are bad. Along with the left strut and inner right tie rod end, which i already knew. More fun awaits. I haven't done a ball joint in decades.

  6. #6
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    Re: my front end thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Previologist View Post
    I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

    Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

    I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.
    The ol'follicle-based konk-proximity sensors are pretty sparse these days and I had gone to a baseball cap, but after I came really close to needing stitches from a garage-door track, I discovered bump caps. They're very inexpensive, and akin to what you'd expect a kid's play-hardhat to look like - not good enough to protect against heavy falling objects, but fine against a bump against the edge of anything that could abrade, bruise or cut.
    bumpcap.jpg
    As for gloves for oily jobs that don't require a delicate touch, I use SAS Raven 2XL Nitriles over Mechanix gloves.

    For dealing with rust dissolver and brake cleaner fumes plus 20+ years' of rusty debris from underneath, there's the Darth Previa getup. Beats a trip to the ER now or a pulminologist later.
    Darth_Previa.jpg
    "If you find yourself holding a sledgehammer or a crowbar, it's time for a break."

  7. #7
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    Re: my front end thread

    Cutting the sway bar links off of my rustbucket 4runner tonight, I was reminded several times why your silly idea of a bump cap might actually be a good idea, lol.

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