New owner 4x4 TV LE 87 227k been sitting for over a year. Stuck in 4x4?

[ingmire]

thnx was just searching for that

[ingmire]

cel seems to blink 4-6-11

[ingmire]

video of code flashing

http://s109.photobucket.com/user/jed...4aee0.mp4.html

[timsrv]

Code 4 is water temp sensor (towards back & passenger side of coolant filler neck). If this sensor is bad, van will still start but will run terrible. Code 6 is likely the one responsible for your current problem. Code 11 is likely a bad or disconnected TPS. We just had a conversation about codes 6 & 11, so rather than rehashing all of that, here's a link to that thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...-cap-and-rotor

Since you were just messing around with plugs & distributor, I would also recommend checking the connections at your distributor........pay particular attention to the ones clipped to the front side of the distributor.

Temp sensors are cheap, so if I had a code 4, I'd just replace that. Napa part #TS5520 for around $15. If you're rolling in the bucks, then it's Toyota part #89422-12010 for around $80. Tim

[timsrv]

Here's a thread that deals with code #4: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...Codes-4-and-11

[ingmire]

ok, going to get / replace the temp sensor. about to read for codes 6 and 11. for checking connections at distributor am i just making sure the plug wires are snug on that end?

[ingmire]

if i get this igniter, can i just join the cut wire with the existing one in my van?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-89-TOYOTA...05ed70&vxp=mtr

or would you recommend i purchase elsewhere?

[timsrv]

It's a shielded wire but these can still be spliced (just need to give it a little more attention). That cable consists of 2 regular wires covered by a braided steel sleeve and that's covered with a plastic sleeve. As long as there's only a small interruption in the braided sleeve it probably won't matter much. When I repair this type wire I solder the interior wires, cover each with shrink tube, then wrap tinfoil to overlap the break in the steel braiding, then cover the entire repair with a larger shrink tube. I'm simply relying on the outer shrink tube to keep the foil in place, so I overlap it by at least an inch on each side. My way is likely overkill, but I don't like worrying about the "what if's" when a problem still remains. Tim

[ingmire]

thanks so much! ill replace the igniter and temp sensor and see what happens

[ingmire]

image-22.jpg the temp sensor currently looks like this? little metal clamps connected to 'paperclip' sitting around base of temp sensor. What should i do about this? I also took a look at the sensor on the drivers side of the filler neck and it looked pretty funny too :/

image-23.jpg

[timsrv]

Yeah, that could be the reason for your code 4 . The part in your 2nd picture is the "cold start injector time switch" Both of these use the common Bosch style connector (same as your injector connectors). They are easy to find at salvage yards or you can easily find new at most auto parts store. Napa/Echlin part #V13087 or 2-18545 will work for both of these sensors. If the sensor or time switch look questionable it's a good idea to just replace. If the temp sensor is bad it will have a major effect on performance regardless of operating temp. The time switch will only effect performance while vehicle is cold. Tim

[ingmire]

thanks for keeping my progress rollin Tim!!! cant wait to get this baby on the road

[timsrv]

Yeah, no problem. I had to work late tonight, and my van almost didn't get me home. So after I ate dinner I had to go spend a few hrs in the garage with it. Just got done a few minutes ago and saw your post. Glad I can help. Tim

[ingmire]

i swapped the igniter today. I took out the old, and connected the wires for the new one. tried to start = same result - starts and dies immediately. I put the screws in to fasten the 'new to me' igniter in position and tried again. It started and ran a bit longer this time before it died. Again and it starts up and keeps running!!! I tapped on the gas and the engine would cut out immediately but keep running once i let go of the gas. i repeated this a few times and eventually got the engine revving by manually using the throttle cable. After this she died again and is currently as she was. Starts but dies immediately. So basically she ran once but didnt like it when i gave her any gas. Also i cant help but think this is something i have caused. As it was running prior to me changing the plugs. Is there some vacuum line or something i may have disconnected that is causing this?

[timsrv]

Yeah, I was afraid it wasn't the igniter. Anymore when I have these sort of problems I just swap parts (it's nice having extra parts around). That other thread I linked you to has the list of most likely to least likely causes. Probably the most common failed ignition part on our vans is the ignition coil. Don't know what the problem with yours is, but that's what I'd go after 1st. If you think it's something you caused, then retrace your steps and recheck your work.

You didn't mention the ECU temperature switch. Did you ever replace that? If not, I'd change that 1st before doing anything else. Tim