Help please no spark

[timsrv]

That's great to hear.......glad you got it all figured out . Yes, TE1 & E1 should be jumped to disable the electronic advance. Then timing should be set to whatever the book tells you. For our US vans that number is 12 deg but not sure what it would be for yours. After timing is set the jumper should be pulled and and the timing should be checked again to verify the electronic advance is working (for US vans we expect to see about 20 deg). If you don't get the change with the jumper removed then you need to investigate the electronic advance system. Tim

[lokismind]

Okay so got it all back together and took it for a drive and it sound like a Volkswagen, (don't know if it rives like it cause I've never driven one)

So, first question,

The petrol pump the got went in is slightly bigger than the one that came out, was the only thing I could get on a Saturday afternoon without spending $130 on a brand new one. Side by side the old one is 3/4 the height of new one and about the same in diameter.
Could this be the cause of the crap running?

Timing was set correctly as per Tim's suggestions and in the drive way at the time it seemed to run nicely.

Idling at about 800rpm and that is the lowest I could get it with the adjustment screw.

So, if the pump could be the cause (kind of hoping cause it's a fairly easy fix) i say brilliant, if not where should I be starting? I re adjusted the timing but it doesn't matter where i set it it still had that roughness.

Scott

[timsrv]

The pump should be capable of bringing pressure up to ~50psi & while the van's running it's supposed to pump continually at max output. The regulator in the fuel rail holds pressure at ~40psi (constant) and allows the excess fuel to flow back to the tank via a return line. Assuming you have the correct output pump and were able to install it without any air leaks between it & the input sock / it & the output side fuel line there should be no problems. Still, since it ran good right up to the time the old pump failed, I would want to verify fuel pressure. Here's a thread that will help you: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...sure-regulator

PS: With your van, jumping the B+ to FP in your diagnostic box is the same thing as jumping the Fuel Pump Test connector in that thread. Also, there are other ways to hook up a pressure gauge. I just used that method as I have lots of parts vehicles & spare parts laying around.

[lokismind]

Thanks Tim, I'll have to look at how I'm going to do this.

The pump I got hold off was out of an '89 torago (previa).

Will let you know what happens

[lokismind]

Tim, some questions.

I haven't done anything with the van yet as haven't had the time so tackling this on the weekend. I figured while I'm playing mechanic I might clean up the spare throttle body and injectors I have and swap them over. So the questions are should I be soaking the injectors in any cleaner or such and should I strip the throttle body completely. I suppose the real questions is what would you be doing?

Scott

[timsrv]

Personally I wouldn't mess with the injectors unless I had a reason to believe they were messed up. If that were the case I'd take the spare ones to a shop that offers cleaning and testing. There's more on this HERE (read the end of post #3 & all of post #15).

Cleaning/swapping the throttle body could be worth while. I usually disassemble them and soak the metal parts in Chem-Dip for a couple of days. After a good soaking I rinse off in a mild solvent (mineral spirits paint thinner works good too) then blow out all the ports with compressed air. During reassembly I put a drop of lube on the throttle shaft bores before installing the shaft. I've been meaning to make a thread on this subject but haven't gotten around to it yet. Tonight when I have more time I'll make a new thread on "throttle bodies" and post a link here. If you're messing around with the throttle body you will also want to test & adjust your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). HERE'S a thread on setting one up (see post #6). Tim

[lokismind]

Thanks Tim, I'm not going to worry about the injectors this time. cant justify the $120 to get them cleaned.

my only question now is what gasket thickness should I use for the throttle body gasket and the intake to plenum chamber gasket?

Scott

[timsrv]

When you say plenum chamber gasket I assume you mean surge tank to intake manifold gasket. Why do you need that gasket? Are you going to split the intake manifold? I'm not crazy about making gaskets when the factory ones are readily available. The surge tank gasket for the 4y is Toyota part #17176-73012 & sells for ~$10 USD. The throttle body gasket is Toyota part #22271-73011 & sells for ~$5 USD.

As promised I put together a new thread on cleaning/adjusting the throttle body. Here's a link: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...le-Body-Thread

[lokismind]

It's alive.

So wasn't able to actually do the pressure test due to lack of tester but, I decided to swap the regulator anyway due to the fact I had a spare one. Crawled under the van to see what I needed to do and found the vacuum line off the regulator. Had my darling daughter put it back on for me. She has much smaller hands.

Strangely that didn't make a difference and the van was still running rough.

Whilst thinking about this I moved the wires which knocked the wires going into #1 injector and it ran perfect. Turns out dodgy wire on the connector.

Van runs better than ever.

Tim thank you for all your help.

scott

[timsrv]