Power Steering Leak

[lukehart]

I used ABS plastic to make a shield for mine, a laundry detergent bottle could work well too!

any pictures?

[ericwz123]

Hey guys my pump is leaking at the red line (picture taken from tim) im assuming thats the a gasket. Does anyone know the part number. I have a PS seal kit but it doesn't have a gasket. Good news is it only leaks when driving. Would you guys recommend a stopleak or cutting my own gasket? thanks! [ATTACH]11080

[originalkwyjibo]

The large o-ring in the kit goes there. Tim posted a PDF of the pump rebuild from the service manual earlier in this thread that explains how to disassemble and rebuild if you need it.

[Dnice]

Hi Tim,
Digging into this specific leak (flow control port).
I pulled the cap and there was no O-ring on it.
All the ones in the suggested Edelman kit seem too thick to fit in the groove there. I tried some others from a universal kit.
Did you use a different O-ring? The factory one- 96711-19014?
Also there seems to be 2 grooves in the cap- Im assuming you put it in the one closer to the top? Any advice to get it in there and installed back in the port? It would seem to be a tight fit.
Thanks in advance!

I suppose it could leak from any of the seals, but the other common spot I've found is the o-ring that seals the flow control port on the engine side of the pump. It's too tight to access with the pump installed, so the entire thing will need to come off before you can change it. Since it's tight quarters here, it's even hard to verify a leak from this port with the pump installed. If the fluid is leaking down the engine side of the pump and then dripping on the alternator, it's a pretty safe bet that this is the spot it's leaking from. Once the pump is off you'll need a small set of snap-ring pliers and a small screwdriver. Slightly depress the flow control valve cap with the screwdriver (to relieve pressure against the snap-ring), then remove it using the snap ring pliers. The cap has a spring pushing against it and it's easy to lose parts if the spring launches the cap. The o-ring goes in the groove that runs the periphery of the cap. Here's an illustration. Tim



BTW, the o-ring on the suction port (previous post) is Toyota Part #96711-19013. The o-ring on the flow control port cap (this post) is part #96711-19014.

Here's a couple other power steering related threads:
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...g-system-noise
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...alot-of-fluid!

[timsrv]

The spring seat (what I call the cap) is marked on the above diagram as part #44343. It should only have one groove, but if for some reason there are 2, then choose the one that seems the most appropriate??? The o-ring is marked on that diagram as #44343A (96711-19014). As for what I did when repairing mine??? that was over 10 years ago so I don't have a crystal clear recollection. I assume I most likely stole that o-ring from an Edelmann repair kit, then ordered a replacement from Toyota to make my kit complete again. Tim

[tonerely]

Hello, I’m looking for the top power steering pump top suction union port. Part 44337

[AD2101]

Where in Arizona are you at? I should have a spare hanging around in the garage somewhere.

[tonerely]

Hi! I’m located in North Phoenix. That would be great if you had one! Look forward to hearing back, names Tony.

[AD2101]

PM sent!

[Sir Goofy]

Hello and good day all,

Determined there was a leak in our power steering pump because our alternator died. Got a replacement remanufactured by Cardone and it's leaking from the same spot right out of the box. Does anyone know if Maval has a better track record? They're more expensive but I know that does mean that two might be better.

Picture shows source of leak on new unit

[originalkwyjibo]

If you are able to do the work, a seal kit is the better option. I've done both of mine in the last 10 or so years with no recurring leaks compared to all the complaints of leaking rebuilds for far more money.

[Sir Goofy]

What's the difficulty level like to rebuild the power steering pump? I'm reasonably handy, I've rebuilt mechanical seals for small hydronic circulators.

[AD2101]

Me not very smart but for me the hardest part of the rebuild was getting the pump out of the van lol. I REFUSED to look at the manual and spent wayyy too long trying to remove the unit with the pulley still on . Once I gave up and referred to the book everything was easy.

Be mindful of the vane plates once you get it open, some of mine fell out when I cracked the pump open. They slide back in easy enough, but there's a certain orientation to them and if you don't get it put back together correctly you're gonna have a bad time.

Otherwise, just take your time and follow the manual and you'll be fine. I also strongly recommend a seal kit over a reman'd unit.

Good luck!

[originalkwyjibo]

It's spelled out pretty good in the manual and if I remember correctly, it doesn't have to be fully disassembled to replace all the seals. It's a good idea to replace the bearing while your in there too.