Have you checked fuel pressure? When mine had a bad fuel pump, it would often idle rough when warm, and sometimes would take lots of cranking to start, or simply not start at all.
Have you checked fuel pressure? When mine had a bad fuel pump, it would often idle rough when warm, and sometimes would take lots of cranking to start, or simply not start at all.
Good thought, I have not checked fuel pressure. I am hoping the weather next weekend is good and I can do some wrenching.
Scorched earth mission to renovate Njordi continues. I just order all new OEM injectors and seals, found an OEM fuel pressure vsv, and a Delphi brand fuel pressure regulator. An expensive bill for sure, but it feels like all these things are good to refresh even if they are not the primary problem.
Have you verified spark yet? When you turn the key to "Run" position, do you see the little engine icon/light on your instrument cluster?
I do not have the special fuel pressure checking tool, but the pump runs and the squeeze test on the fuel lines seems like the fuel pump is working. Also found that the injectors are actually discontinued, so I guess I will visually inspect them when I pull them out and can replaced with reman injectors from RockAuto if needed.
I have not checked spark yet, but I can once I get the passenger seat out. The only piece of the spark circuit that isn't new OEM is the coil. Maybe I should just swap that out anyway...
Verifying the CEL light on your dash is the 1st and easiest thing to check. Does it illuminate when the key is in the run position? Codes should be next, then spark and fuel pressure. When activated, if the fuel pump runs, you will be able to hear it flowing through the system.
Yes, I am still getting the CEL and the full compliment of codes 22/24/32/41 which is all the signals that run through the connected circuit of the MAF/water temp/TPS/Air temp. I am not saying these are definitely not the problem, but I am saying that all those sensors/devices pass the tests shown in the factory manual. They are all within spec and I can find no shorts or weak connectivity in the wiring.
Also just confirmed that I can indeed here fuel returning the to the tank when running the fuel pump by jumping FP and +B in the Diagnostic port. So I think I can at least skip the fuel pump for now, which is nice because they are pricey.
Fuel rail is out. All the injectors look OK to me and they all test out fine for resistance (all at 13.9 ohms). I don't know how to test if the old pressure regulator is good or bad. I don't have the tools to do the fuel test described int he factory manual. Anyway, this all seems like good stuff to replace. Still waiting on all the seals and the new injectors to arrive on Saturday.
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I haven't checked the spark yet, but I will check that once I get a coupled minutes.
I did strip one of the bolts that hold on the injector retainers. I can't find a part number anywhere, what is the best way to find correct replacements?
The little 10mm drive bolt? I'd find a replacement from an Ace Hardware, or small hardware store. It just holds down that metal retainer
As just suggested, it's probably just M6 (probably the most common size in my hardware bins), and in your shoes I'd probably just find a match (because that's why we save these bitsOriginally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter
). However, if you would like a p/n, are you working with ToyoDIY? If not, you probably should be, so I'm sending a PM about it.
New injectors and fuel pressure reg are in!
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Fired right up and was running nicely!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sXS8667ULg
I think it sounds relatively smooth. So let's take a test drive!!! ...
Died when I sat int he driver seat. Uh oh.
So I start poking around under the seat and find this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTo5hePVUWQ
A little more poking showed me that the bad connection is the center connector that holds all the air:fuel stuff. So there is the source of my error codes and CEL. It appears it is not the wires, but rather right at the connector. So you all get to say "TOLD YOU SO" but not in the spots I was checking as closely.
What I'll bet most want to say is CONGRATS on the perseverance fixing your problem! And probably preventing some others from cropping up by the inevitable NTF side-trips (No Trouble Found). Plus think of everything you've learned! A lot of "proper" troubleshooting plus how to "DIY by the seat of your pants."
"If you find yourself holding a sledgehammer or a crowbar, it's time for a break."
Anyone who might be tempted to say "TOLD YOU SO" would have to appreciate the lesson of your troubleshooting: a stressed wire has connectors at two ends. Nice work.
I called Toyota parts department, stopped at Autozone and Advance Autos, and looked online including Rock Auto and no one has any idea what pins are in these connectors. The connectors themselves are discontinued and I cannot seem to find any on eBay or elsewhere. It seems I found a pretty uncommon problem. I suppose my only option is to very carefully try to remove a couple pins and see what they look like. I might have to start calling salvage yards.
Victory! Njordi is officially running in excellent condition!!!! Idles rock steady, acceleration is WAY different than it was before, and is sounds smooth.
The ECU pins are very easy ones to pull, and I went through every pin on the center connector. I popped each out, and used a pin tipped tweezers to access the clamp lever arm fromt he back side and bend it down. Each of them was clearly worn and bent up to a loose position. I think the ECU pins should all get replaced, but this should work for a good long while.
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Feels very good to have this thing purring and running like a normal car. Now onto more fun projects!
I have most of a harness I kept after doing the JDM swap on my van. Which connector is it? I can send you some with wire on them if you're fine splicing the wires together
Congratulations!
But i don't understand something:
So the problem was not wire frayed at the pin, but male-to-female mating?The ECU pins are very easy ones to pull, and I went through every pin on the center connector. I popped each out, and used a pin tipped tweezers to access the clamp lever arm fromt he back side and bend it down. Each of them was clearly worn and bent up to a loose position. I think the ECU pins should all get replaced, but this should work for a good long while. ...
Correct, all the wires and crimps are in good shape. It is the female pins themselves that have worn out. And only on the middle connector. Very odd. But who knows what the previous owner was doing, maybe they did something weird.
@Latte thanks for the offer, but I think I am good. I may repin the connectors but I will just use new pins if I go that route.
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