Any idea where I can find this motor? I went through advance Auto site and they sent me this motor and it's not even close to the original.![]()
Any idea where I can find this motor? I went through advance Auto site and they sent me this motor and it's not even close to the original.![]()
The one at the bottom is the "original" one, yes? Because they aren't supposed to look like that, they're much similar to the one up top. FWIW, I had to do the same job a little over a year ago and the Dorman lift motor I bought off of Amazon was the same in form and function as OEM, and it works great. It appears to me that the someone before you shoehorned in a different power window motor, hopefully they didn't hack up the harness, because the "wrong" one you got should be exactly what you need.
Thanks that's what I was afraid of.
My driver side window switch is going out and the passenger side has gone out. I can get the passenger side down with the swicth for it on the drivers door. The driver window switch is touchy and is starting to go out. I can feel the mechanism is obviously worn internally on the switch compared to the other.
Havent seen one another one of these with electric windows and was wondering what/if other vehicles had the same electric switches i could salvage?
Could I rebuild these?
Is the 2 switch panel on the drivers side two individual switches or a two-switch combo?
My driver door window won't roll up all the way. In order to get it up all the way i have to hold it up with my hand just right and work the switch up. Sometimes it catches and will lock it that last 1/4 inch. I've had the window out before and was wondering if it was a lining up thing on my part or if the door is just bent a little? When rolling it up its like its almost doing it.. bump bump bump up and down that last 1/4". when it goes all the way up its like the motor locks it in place.
Bonus question: Why are my side window gaskets shrinking, and how can I fix this? Doesn't appear to be an issue but its perplexing to see. Saw one in the junk yard and I almost pulled the gaskets in case I needed to 'extend' mine or something.
This is a direct replacement for the passenger side:
https://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-...tch-1985-1988/
There is no direct replacement for the driver's side.
I just bought a few more of the passenger switches to see if I can take them apart and use the contacts and rockers in the driver's side. I'm almost certain the parts will work.
Hey Tim--
Neither of my windows roll down. I have cleared out the build up the connection points once or twice before. Ideally I would love to get crank windows-- Is there any specific part I could grab new or rig from a different vehicle or is it just luck of the draw with pulling it out from a van? Colorado doesn't have a huge amount of Toyota vans in junk yards.
Thanks for all your help!
I remember my 85’ Celica GTS had the same type of driver side Master Swicth as a 84’-85’ van but i no longer have that vehicle to verify.
I may have a set of switches I pulled from a 85’ van both driver and passenger side, I’ll take a look and follow up when I find them.
JDM
Found’em-
84’-86’ toyota van power window switches
84’-86’ toyota van power window switches
My laptop is down and I had to use my phone to post pictures.
JDM
oh thats very kind of you! Re-reading I realized I didn't ask what I meant to ask very clearly. I am curious if I could possibly get manual cranks from a different toyota vehicle to replace my electric ones I currently have. Or if they have to be specifically from a toyota van? Seems like they are slim pickins on the internet but I guess I also don't know exactly how to measure and what I am looking for specifically.. any guidance on that? thanks!![]()
Lois85,
sorry I didn’t read that thread clearly and thank you for the additional clarification, here’s a thread when 8 removed the window regulator from a van in the yard. This will give you a visual on how it looks and if it’s the same as a van with power windows. I’m sure they can be swapped out, I met a guy in BC that did the swap out for $120CA per side.
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ator#post39117
JDM
This is a really great thread! So looking at manual window regulators, I am curious if you think it would be possible to get them from a different vehicle, maybe an 85 toyota truck? From what I can see, they seem like a pretty straight forward part... Any advice?
Thanks!
I think the 85’ truck doors are completely different and the regulators are unique to each vehicle.
JDM
There might be new switches available, Vanco posted a link in posting number 65. I'm not sure but I think the 84'-89' Toyota 4Runner, Truck, and Celica have the same power switches if your looking for spares or parts?
JDM
this thread is excellent! having gone through all the D/S master control possibilities listed (disassembly, cleaning contacts and reassembly), i got everything working except the D/S window (which fortunately is closed). i'm now of the opinion that my D/S master control is toast and that any "pick and pull" bone yard control would probably be "iffy". my mission now is to graft a new '89-'94 toyota pick-up control (from Switch Doctor in Georgia for $20) onto the van wiring harness going to the D/S master control plug-in. they both have nine connections. assuming i can get a cut-off connector from a Toyota pick-up in a bone-yard, is this likely to work? does anyone have a tip on mating the wires from the van to the pick up plug-in connector? any/all comments, help or suggestions would be appreciated.
re: my previous post: new plan!
given that the only thing not working on the master control panel is the D/S window switch, instead of replacing the entire master control, i now want to simply try to connect a replacement generic momentary switch (DORMAN, etc) to the D/S master control wiring harness, physically attaching it to the inner door panel below the armrest).
am i correct to assume that i disconnect the R and G wires from the harness to power the new remote momentary switch and tap into the W-B wire still within the harness for ground?
is there any reason that this fix will not work, or disturb the P/S window operation and/or lock-out function?
thanks for any comments or suggestions.
Unless you rewire the entire circuit, in order for a different switch to work it needs to be electrically identical to the factory switch you are replacing. Meaning it needs to have the same number of terminals and some of the terminals need to be normally closed (NC) while others need to be normally open (NO). The schematic posted earlier shows which terminals should be NC and which are NO. Tim
Hey! I hit the jackpot with finding manual window regulators in Denver! Woohoo! Now I am curious if there is a thread about converting my electric windows to manual windows. I am assuming that this shouldn't be too difficult a task, but I love all the info I can get!