Good ole 86 Van Overheating Problems [seeking advice]

[MyToy]

After 8000 miles after rebuild I lost coolant. Adding about .5 quarts per month. Did all the tests stated and found when pressure tested it would hold 15lbs for 15 minutes, then down to 13 by 30 minutes.

Then I did the head compression tests. Got the tool that Tim recommended. Two squeezes of the bulb and it went from blue to green. So it looks like I have a cylinder leak somewhere. No water leaks anywhere. Every time I fill with coolant it blows it all into the recovery jug but does not suck back in. Now over heating. It never did this. It was always on the very cool side.

So looks like the head has to come off. When I do that is there anything I should do to the head while replacing the head gasket?

Thanks

MT

[Toyvan85]

After 8000 miles after rebuild I lost coolant. Adding about .5 quarts per month. Did all the tests stated and found when pressure tested it would hold 15lbs for 15 minutes, then down to 13 by 30 minutes.

Then I did the head compression tests. Got the tool that Tim recommended. Two squeezes of the bulb and it went from blue to green. So it looks like I have a cylinder leak somewhere. No water leaks anywhere. Every time I fill with coolant it blows it all into the recovery jug but does not suck back in. Now over heating. It never did this. It was always on the very cool side.

So looks like the head has to come off. When I do that is there anything I should do to the head while replacing the head gasket?

Thanks

MT

Hi, MyToy

Replacing head gasket takes ton of time and works, so if your problem is not too serious , you can take the simple way like this.
How is not "so serious"? It is when:
1. The engine still run when you stop it when you found the temp become too high
2. The lub oil in tank still not become milky color
3. The bubble in the refill cap off hole does not crazy boiling (like exploding) while you start the engine and it run with a cap off
If it really is, then you can do simple way like this: just tighten the bolts and keep the head.
1. Remove the upper half of intake maifold,
2. Remove the hose and the engine cap - then you can see all the valves and 10 bolts
3. Tighten the 10 bolts with a torque wrench at right torque set (88N/m)
4. Re-assemble every thing - refill cooling water
5. Start the engine and check if the water inside the cap-hole surface smoothly without any bubble.
6. Make a test run around to check if it's OK
This can save time, but with a risk that the problem still there, then you should carefull check the temp gauge while driving.
If it does not work, then you have to replace the head gasket with a new one.

Good luck.

NDS

[MyToy]

Thanks NDS

The guy that did the engine removal and install was informed a month after it was done that I was putting in water every month. So he knew. So I went back to him and he said that he would check it again and pull the head to see where the problem was. He did mention the idea on the head bolts, but in a not so good way. He told me that if it did fix the issue it would be short lived. He advised I get rid of the van. That is not what I wanted to hear now that I have sunk so much into her. The machine shop was the problem but he said that now it has been so long they would never help.
So I have a choice. Tighten them and never go back or have him do the work and I pick up the head costs and still never go back

So I need to find a good shop that can test the head and do what ever it is they do when a gasket is replaced. I am in Florida and heard that there was a shop in Sanford that has done these. Just don't know who that is.
Anybody out there know please give a screen. Or if anyone knows of a shop that is good for the 4Y please chime in.

MT

[Carbonized]

Here lies your biggest problem: You are in Florida! Sorry, and welcome to the club.

[Maroon_Marauder]

Thanks for the replies everyone! Sounds like we all share a similar frustration.

Well, I think a cracked head or blown head gasket is unfortunately confirmed... Running the engine with the radiator cap off has a constant flow of bubbles coming up to the top which increases as I rev the engine. Even a slight amount of foam. If I cold start with the radiator cap off, it actually shoots some water out of the radiator.

It's pretty crazy how far I've driven with this problem haha. Two round trip adventures along the west coast U.S. It's odd how the problem comes and goes, I'm wondering if my local radiator guys stop leak treatment worked but isn't consistent.


Any suggestions on what I should do? I'm 21 with minimal mechanical knowledge and not a ton of money to blow (actually trying to buy a short bus to convert right now)
Should I part it out? Sell it as is? Try and toss a new engine in there? I do have a very mechanically inclined cousin with a shop to work in. I feel like it will be hard to find an engine and it's a gamble on whether or not that one will have the same problem too, right?

For the record, I bought the van for $1600 and it almost has 275k miles on it. Parts are mostly original minus the water pump, thermostat, and alternator.

Did you ever figure out if it was a blown HG or was it the rad? I have a 1996 Hiace and it is doing the exact same thing.

[Spence]

Did you ever figure out if it was a blown HG or was it the rad? I have a 1996 Hiace and it is doing the exact same thing.

That'll be the kzh right? I would have a look into your expansion tank and watch for bubbles showing up in the tank. My lh107 had thst issue and it turns out the cylinder head was cracked caused by overheating. From my research, the hiace viscous fan is a common problem when they stop working so well. One thing to try is to flush the radiator and water lines to clear any obstructions. Hopefully it's not a cracked head because that sucks! I'm looking at 7-9 hundred bucks to repair the cracked head or 1400 to buy an updated head from Toyota. The other problem is my block has some bad scoring on cyl 3 and the bore has already been machined out by 0.5mm so I'll have to find another engine, which will cost around 4000 all in :(

[Maroon_Marauder]

That'll be the kzh right? I would have a look into your expansion tank and watch for bubbles showing up in the tank. My lh107 had thst issue and it turns out the cylinder head was cracked caused by overheating. From my research, the hiace viscous fan is a common problem when they stop working so well. One thing to try is to flush the radiator and water lines to clear any obstructions. Hopefully it's not a cracked head because that sucks! I'm looking at 7-9 hundred bucks to repair the cracked head or 1400 to buy an updated head from Toyota. The other problem is my block has some bad scoring on cyl 3 and the bore has already been machined out by 0.5mm so I'll have to find another engine, which will cost around 4000 all in :(

It is the LH107. I overheated a couple months back and it blew out my radiator top right brass hose line. I had that fixed and reinstalled the radiator. It has been overheating while driving down the highway while I am ascending and only on warm days. I am hoping it is not a cracked head but I guess I wont know til I get it out. I did change out the viscous fan so that is new. I cant believe these things have this kind of problem. They are suppose to great engines. Ugh!

[Spence]

Ooo yeah with that much pressure something is bound to be broken in the head/ gasket... Have you ever cleaned out the cooling system? There's a ton more info on the hiace super custom ownwers forum about these vans:
http://hiace-super-custom.forumotion.com/
I hope it's nothing serious but you can buy an upgraded head from Toyota, it'll just cost around 1200-1400 cad. I called a cylinder head repair shop about getting mine fixed and they said it'll cost around 7-9 hundred bucks to repair, and even then it might crack again. Repair guy just told me to get the upgraded head. Although I'm not going to bother with the 3L anymore, going to try the more ambitious route of installing a vw tdi engine instead