Other parts to replace while replacing Head Gasket

[rustdogbrown]

I recall seeing a thread where someone recommended other parts/gaskets to replace while replacing a head gasket. I have tried searching for this thread here and on TVP and cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Also, feel free to provide additional input on parts/gaskets that should be replaced. Obviously, I will replace all of the gaskets in the head gasket set that I will get. The radiator and steering pump have been replaced prior to my ownership (and look like it too).

Thanks,

Rusty

[djshimon]

Get OEM Toyota Head Gasket ONLY! Very important unless you want to do the job again. here's one thread from here about it: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...op-End-Rebuild
and one from TVP about why to use a Toyota Headgasket: http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum...p=45258#p45258

You probably should do the hose of death and maybe the port that it uses-both very cheap.
Definitely get the head tested and maybe a new head if needed.
here's another link about it:http://www.toyotavanpeople.com/forum...+gasket#p61799

Better do some good research and get a factory service manual or find one online.
I'd search TVP thoroughly. And please share if you feel like it.

[timsrv]

How much you do will depend on the condition of other parts, how much time you have and how much money you are willing to spend. Considering the age and the high temperatures in our engine compartments, if you want the van to be dependable you will most likely have a fair amount of extra work to do. As you know a series of judgement calls is always part of any major job. Some work will be absolutely necessary but other things can wait. Considering access issues, while you're in there you should probably do many more things............or end up kicking yourself later.

Once you get the head off you should take it into a reputable machine shop. Once there they can check-over/rework anything that's questionable. Also, if you break/strip out any exhaust bolts/bolt holes, they can easily remove and repair/replace while they have it. They should also check for cracks, check the valves, guides, and shave the gasket surface to ensure it's flat. Some shops will want to do everything regardless if it needs it or not, so unless that's okay with you be sure and tell them only to repair and replace as necessary. If you bring it in without the rocker assy, be sure to tell them the valves are of the "non-adjustable" type so they know to remove the very minimum of material when/if they shave it. This is also helpful information for them to know when grinding valves (as they will need to grind some off the valve stems to compensate for the material they remove from the head and valve seal areas).

To simplify your parts purchase, I would recommend purchasing a genuine Toyota Valve grind gasket kit and be sure to hand the machine shop the valve seals from that kit when you drop off the head (otherwise who knows what they'll use).

Of course, this is all assuming you wish to have head work done by a shop. If everything looks fine when you get the head off, and assuming you can see an obvious flaw in the head gasket, then you might take a chance and just simply replace the gasket. Regardless of how far you go, gasket surface clean-up and prep is critical. Take steps to avoid introducing grit or foreign material inside your engine. After you're done scraping the mating surfaces use a strong solvent like lacquer thinner or carb cleaner to wipe these down. Before final assembly it's a good idea to use brake-clean for the final cleaning (as it won't leave any residue). If you decide to "chance it" you should take the time to check a couple of things before proceeding. You can do a poor man's valve seal inspection by turning the head upside down and filling the chambers with carb cleaner or brake clean. If there is a warped valve or one with a bad seal the cleaning liquid will leak out of the chamber. If it leaks a lot then you'll need to take the head in for repairs. If it leaks a little, then you could probably get by with lapping the valves by hand. If you decide to lap by hand you will need a valve spring removal tool. These can be rented at most of the big auto parts stores our you could purchase one for around $50 or so. If you remove the valves, be sure to keep track of where each one goes as you will want to put them back into the original holes. Removing the valves will also allow you to clean them and inspect the valve guides. You will also be able to replace the valve seals (can't be done with the springs installed). You can check the guides by trying to wiggle the valves side to side in the guides. If you find one with excessive side play then the head will need to go in for repairs. Any time a head is off it should also be checked with a straight-edge. Assuming you have one available to you, it should be laid lengthwise on each side then diagonally (both ways) on the gasket surface. Each time it's in position feeler gauges are used to determine if the head is warped. Here's a link to more detailed information on how to check out your cylinder head: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...Rebuild-part-2
Here's a link to other head work you can do yourself: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ngine-Overhaul (see posts #5, 7 & 12)

One final thing to consider is head-bolts. I've always re-used the old head bolts, but I've heard of others having trouble doing so (bolts broke during final torque). Perhaps they over-torqued or just weren't smart enough to know how to even use a torque wrench, but this is a commonly debated subject. Its a subject each mechanic should consider and many choose to purchase all new head bolts. Always lube the threads and contact areas of the head bolts (under the heads) with engine oil and follow correct torque values/tightening sequences outlined in the service manual.

While reassembling the rest of your engine you should pay attention to lots of little details. Most (if not all) rubber parts and hoses will almost certainly need to be replaced. You might be interested to know that back in the day the flat rate manual called this a 9 hr job......ah, well, not a reliable figure any more. When the van was within 5 years old that was about right, but now in it's old age and hard miles I would plan on 12 hrs minimum. I suspect you will probably be dealing with at least one broken exhaust manifold stud (the one in the very back) and it's likely the exhaust manifold will also be cracked (the back runner). Here's a good thread to help you through these issues: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...-exhaust-studs.

Since you will also have good access to your throttle body (intake removed) now would also be a good time to replace/adjust your TPS. It's been my experience that the TPS will rarely make it past 150k miles, so unless you know history I'd consider replacing it routine maintenace: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...n-Sensor-Video. Other parts I'd highly recommend replacing are the engine thermostat & gasket (Toyota T-stat #90916-03046 Toyota Gasket #16325-63011). New water pump belt and a new radiator cap should also be considered must-do items. On these items I don't consider Toyota to have the monopoly on quality. I consider Gates Micro-V belts to exceed Toyota's quality and the Gates radiator cap rivals Toyota (beats the hell out of them for price). Gates part number for the cap is #31333. Water pump belt = Gates #25-050323. FWIW, if you go to Napa and ask for their premium quality belt you will get the Gates Micro-V. Injector connectors will also need to be carefully inspected. These connectors get hard and brittle and are likely to break upon removal. Due to the impossible to reach locations of injectors #3 & #4, if these connectors are not perfect, then replace them BEFORE putting the intake manifold back on. 88 & 89 vans use the "inverted Nippon" style connectors and these are all but impossible to find. Toyota does not sell them and it's likely salvage yard vans will also have brittle connectors. There is however a bright spot here. Several Subaru models from the late 80's to the mid 90's use this exact connector. Due to their placement on the Subaru engine these are almost always in pristine condition. Last time I needed some I went the the Pick-n-Pull and came out with a dozen. The guy at the counter charged me $0.35 each. If you can't save the conductor part of your old connector then be sure to solder and shrink tube the "new" ones onto your harness. This is not a place to take short-cuts (butt connectors simply won't do).

Minimum part purchase required for this job is a Valve Grind Gasket Kit Toyota Part #04112-73031 (for 4y) or part #04112-73054 (for 3y). Like Aaron said above, stay away from aftermarket head gaskets! Just in case we weren't clear, I repeat STAY AWAY FROM AFTERMARKET HEAD GASKETS!!! As for hoses and their part numbers, here's a good thread: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...op-End-Rebuild. Also, you may also wish to review the "hose of death" thread before jumping in there: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...f-death-thread.

FYI: A few common mistakes (below):

Mixing up push rods
Push rods, lifters, and rocker arms are all the same when new, but as they break-in they develop unique wear patterns. Because of this, after break-in they should always stay paired with the parts they were originally mated with. Swapping push rods around or flipping them upside down will make them go through this break-in process again. Depending on how similar the wear patterns may (or may not) be, mixing these up can cause excessive wear and likely lead to premature failure. Typically it's considered acceptable to throw a new part into the mix, but not a previously used one. You can avoid early failure by keeping things in order. A good way to do this is to flip a cardboard box upside down and poke 8 holes in the bottom. Make the holes in a straight line and mark what end is the front. As you take the push-rods out, start on one end and remove them in order. As you remove them poke them right side-up into the holes (in the order they came out).

Installing the rocker arm bar upside down
There is a flat spot ground into the back of the rocker bar. This flat spot needs to be facing down against the head when you put it back on. Failure to do this will result in over-stressing the rear mount area and will also create too much valve lash. The result is increased wear, decreased performance, and noisy valves.

Removing Injectors from the intake manifold
If there wasn't any fuel leaks and if the van was running fine before needing the head gasket, then it's safe to assume the injectors are okay. If this is the case I would avoid pulling them out of the manifold. Removing them will take extra time and will create the need for new o-rings, grommets, and insulators. If on the other hand there was a problem with the way it ran, it might be a good idea to pull them and have them cleaned and tested. Most (if not all) major cities have at least one place that can ultrasonically clean injectors then test them. If you have any doubts about your injectors now is an excellent time to have this done (due to the wrap-around split intake manifold it's a major PITA to do the job afterward). If you're chasing a runability problem, then having this done will allow you to eliminate the injectors as a possible cause. Injector service consists of ultrasonically cleaning, and testing. A good shop will test for flow patterns, flow rates, and check to make sure they shut-off completely when powered down. A modern test machine will print out this information for review after the test is complete.

Leaving old seals and/or debris in injector bores
When reinstalling injectors, a common mistake is to neglect removing all or part of the seals/o-rings from the mounting bores. Make sure the bores are clear of all foreign or old seal material BEFORE installing your injectors. Failure to do so will result in a leak or damage to your fuel rail, injectors, manifold, or a combination of any of these. The parts required for installing injectors will cost around $70. Here are the part numbers and quantities:

90301-07001 QTY: 4 O-ring for between fuel rail and injector
90301-23004 QTY: 4 O-ring for between manifold and injector
23291-73010 QTY: 4 Insulator for manifold side of injector
90480-13005 QTY: 4 Grommet for rail side of injector

[rustdogbrown]

The head gasket job is done and all of the parts are back together. I did replace all of the injector seals-it cost me $95. My head gasket set was made by Ishino/Stone. I am told that this is the manufacturer of the Toyota OEM head gasket. My source was my friends shop (and worldpac). The van starts right up and idles and there no obvious "bad" sounds. My previous 4WD van had a distinct piston slap sound when cold, but this van doesn't even have that. I'll get a feel for the power once I get the seats back in and drive it. All in all is sounds like a 180K mile motor.

There is one interesting tidbit. The machine shop surfaced the head and noted that the condition of the surface (when I brought it in) was too smooth. Anyone ever heard of this? He said that smooth surface could have led to the head gasket failure. When I got it back the surface was rough machined and apparently this is the spec.

Also, I found a rear water outlet for the back of the cylinder head (the one with the 4 bolt flange). It was in nice shape and my original one was corroded.

[timsrv]

Good luck with those gaskets. Hopefully your friend is right and they are the same. I'm sure there are good aftermarket gaskets out there but IMHO it's simply too big of a risk to take considering the time and cost of doing the job twice. Paying an extra $50 or whatever for genuine Toyota is cheap insurance.

On the injector seals, did you get those from a Dealer of off the internet? Last time I checked the entire set was around $75 from www.ToyotaPartsDeal.com...........but that was a few months ago and everything is going up.

That's an interesting comment about the head being too smooth. I agree that a little texture is a good thing (gives the gasket something to bite into). On the other hand grooves can be bad. If small little grooves could be machined into it in a circular pattern around each cylinder, then I think it would be good (they would act as little road blocks to high pressure exhaust gas). If however these grooves (or some of them) are going outward from the cylinders they could promote failure (of course this would depend on the size and depth of the grooves).

When I do this job (assuming the head doesn't get shaved), I use my die grinder with Scotch Brite surfacing discs on these surfaces. These discs do remove material but it's a very small amount. I like them because they clean, break up any glaze, and they provide a little texture for new gaskets to bond to. I try to work around the cylinders in a circular pattern as to avoid making paths for exhaust gasses. Of course the down side to these discs is the grit they leave behind. Whenever using them one needs to use extreme care to keep these particles out of your engine. Tim

[rustdogbrown]

I did buy my injector bits from the dealer - it was a Saturday and I was dead set on getting the van back together. Drove it last night around Seattle (up and down hills). It has power, but I did not have the confidence to push it too hard. I think it could use a brake job. Going down hills revealed a stinky front right caliper. I also need tires and would like to eventually find a decent grey interior from another van. My interior is missing some pieces. I also plan on lubing all of the door latch and lock mechanisms.

Rusty

[eddieleephd]

So I was confused that the plugs for my 88 van are not available and went looking after I read this thread.
What I found is http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=kgfuel here they sell 2 items of interest ND-IC & ND2EV1
ND-IC is an oval plug for DENSO injectors ND2EV1 is a converter from DENSO style to Bosch style.
ONE OF THESE HAS TO WORK!!!!

Tim Which is it?

harness
http://kgparts.com/kgimages/kgparts/Injectorpics/harness/nippon2ev1.jpg

plug
http://kgparts.com/kgimages/kgparts/...ess/delphi.jpg

[timsrv]

Neither of those will work on an 88-89 van. The one in your top picture is a Bosch style (used on vans from 84-87). The one in your 2nd picture is a Denso "top slot" style (never used on Vanwagons). 88-89 vans use the "inverted Nippon" AKA "bottom slot" style. I did an extensive search for inverted Nippon/bottom slot style connectors about 2 years ago and nothing was available anywhere (not even aftermarket injector connector people were making them). One place I talked to said they were gearing up to make them but couldn't say when they would be available. Perhaps by now some are available??? If you find them please let us know.

For further clarification of the difference, Here's a picture of the Denso top slot style (available)



Here's a picture of the Inverted Nippon/bottom slot style (Currently Unavailable)


Other than the guide slots, they are identical. I heard of one guy that ground the "bumps" off his injectors and used the Denso top slot style, but I wasn't brave enough (or perhaps stupid enough) to do that. BTW, I never did check with Subaru, but even if they do have them I doubt they would sell them individually (probably want to sell an entire engine harness). Like I mentioned earlier these are easy to find in salvage yards. Last time I went looking I found several sets in excellent condition (all off of Subarus). Tim

[eddieleephd]

Thank you for the clarification now I definitely see what you are talking about!!!!
well I will keep looking at times. and definitely will let you know if I find the right plug!!

do you have any idea which Subarus these plugs came on I know you said some of the 80's models

[eddieleephd]

Found them!!!

http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15

WOO HOO!!!

all due to your pics and a little looking this should be great!!
CHEAP TOO!!!

[timsrv]

That's awesome! It's nice to know new are now available. I like the idea of the "dual slot" connector. It doesn't make much sense to me why Nippondenso would make two different kinds in the 1st place. The only thing that would worry me with aftermarket is not knowing the quality of plastic they use. I'm guessing it's just fine, but would still concern me a bit because of the extra "heat stress" these vans put on things. Tim

PS: There were several different models of Subaru that used this inverted or "lower slot" connector. I think Legacy was one but there are others. Tim

Edit: For future reference, here's the picture from your link (just in case the link goes dead).

[User1]

Hey guys,

Looks like I'm getting ready to do the HG and head work bit soon. Looking at other things I might need to do as well. I haven't seen very much on the timing belt, or is that timing chain? Looks like these things are pretty indestructible since no one really mentions them right?

[User1]

The parts required for installing injectors will cost around $70. Here are the part numbers and quantities:

90301-07001 QTY: 4 O-ring for between fuel rail and injector
90301-23004 QTY: 4 O-ring for between manifold and injector
23291-73010 QTY: 4 Insulator for manifold side of injector
90480-13005 QTY: 4 Grommet for rail side of injector

Hey Tim,

Are these parts included in the Toyota Valve grind gasket kit? I guess my question would also be, what's in the valve kit?

[eddieleephd]

Timing chains are highly resilient on most vehicles. here is a thread on some of that stuff.
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...t=Timing+chain

If you have never done the chain and have 150,000+ mi. I would recommend doing the chain.
Better safe than sorry.

[timsrv]

Injector o-rings are not included in Toyota's valve grind gasket sets (must be purchased separately). If the injectors are not leaking and the vehicle ran good before the head gasket failure, then you have the option of leaving the fuel rail, injectors, and lower manifold together as an assembly (no requirement to disassemble these parts while doing a head gasket).

If however you suspect an injector problem or simply want to be thorough then you may want to disassemble and check things out. Recently I purchased the GB #8-024A injector o-ring kits off of RockAuto.com for $2.08 each (each kit does 1 injector). The kit does not include the big o-ring (Toyota part #90301-23004) that goes between the injector basket & the manifold, but it does have the other 3 parts mentioned.

One curious thing worth mentioning is Toyota's "complete" engine gasket kit (part #04111-73038) does include the big injector basket o-rings, but none of the smaller ones (those can be purchased in the GB kits from RockAuto).

I know in the earlier post I said "avoid removing injectors"........but a little more experience with high mileage vans with ageing injectors has changed my opinion. As of my last job involving injectors I now strongly recommend removing your injectors and having them cleaned/tested by a professional. When it comes to the Portland Oregon area I can't say enough good things about Dr Injector in Gladstone. For $20 each he will clean & test your injectors. He has an amazing collection of specialized equipment specifically for this purpose. The $20 includes initial testing with documented results, cleaning, and retesting. The testing includes spray pattern inspection, flow rates, and internal/external leak tests. When he's done he will install new plastic liners on the tip of the injectors and install new o-rings on them (all included in the $20 fee). You will also get a print-out of your injectors' performance . FYI, if you bring in one of your injector baskets, he'll match up the size and give you the o-rings for those as well .

Sometimes I'm too busy to drive down there so I'll just put the injectors in a box and mail them to him. When he's done he'll give me a call to get my credit card info & he'll ship them back. His name is Wayne and his contact info is: Doctor Injector 610 E 1st St, Gladstone OR 97027. Cell# 503-513-5070 Shop# 503-786-0700. Tell him Tim from Tim's RV sent you!

Here's a flier that gives more info on his service:



Here's a couple other related threads:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...sure-regulator

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...el-Injector(s)

[gushaman]

FYI: A few common mistakes (below):

Mixing up push rods
Push rods, lifters, and rocker arms are all the same when new, but as they break-in they develop unique wear patterns. Because of this, after break-in they should always stay paired with the parts they were originally mated with. Swapping push rods around or flipping them upside down will make them go through this break-in process again. Depending on how similar the wear patterns may (or may not) be, mixing these up can cause excessive wear and likely lead to premature failure. Typically it's considered acceptable to throw a new part into the mix, but not a previously used one. You can avoid early failure by keeping things in order. A good way to do this is to flip a cardboard box upside down and poke 8 holes in the bottom. Make the holes in a straight line and mark what end is the front. As you take the push-rods out, start on one end and remove them in order. As you remove them poke them right side-up into the holes (in the order they came out).

I have always kept track of my pushrods in this way, but I was doing it at the shop ( for those who dont know I am a toyota forklift tech at a forklift dealer) and my Toyota Certified Trainer asked why. I told him and he realated that he always did that too, until a few years ago. He said he would bring into a rebuilder all in order in cardboard, and one time the rebuilder asked him why he does that. He explained why, and the guy told him "thats all fine and dandy, but when I toss it all in the cleaner they get mixed up. Hes never had a problem, and said that if the lifters are good they should make up for any differences. Not my two cents, but someone elses. just figured Id add it to a post

[timsrv]

To each his own I guess. Problems may be rare/random but why take the chance? If they are going in a parts washer they can be numbered with an engraving tool or scratched with a drill bit for identification later. The one below was scratched with a drill bit. I number front to back 1 - 8. The numbers are placed near the top. Location and orientation of number tells me which side goes up. The number tells me what position it gets returned to. This mark will survive a parts wash and/or a hot tank. It only takes a few seconds to mark each push rod. Tim

[Chardog1971]

Found them!!!

http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=15

WOO HOO!!!

all due to your pics and a little looking this should be great!!
CHEAP TOO!!!

as of october 2016 site isnt available,

[timsrv]

Which style are you after? If it's for your 85, then you need the Bosch style, and they are everywhere (hard to think of a place where they're not). 88 - 89 use the "Inverted Nippon" AKA "Denso bottom slot" ("dual slot" will also work). If you need those, just search eBay (using those terms) or go to a salvage yard and snatch them from a 90's Subaru. Tim

[spacecruisers]

Hey Tim, I've never done any electrical work but while I have the intake off I figured I should replace my injector connectors with these (mines an 87 so I guess its the Bosch style) and saw your harness you built - looks like something I should do since Im replacing them anyway. not having to take apart the intake again is a very appealing, lol. I'll recreate what you've done with the weather pack connectors. Could you or somebody thats done this walk me through a little bit? Where do the weatherpack connectors plug in? or do you have to cut up existing wiring?

I'm also thinking my alternator harness may be bad because I'm getting a Christmas dash after trying 2 new alternators, so rebuilding a new harness (which I saw we have a great thread for) is another wiring issue ill have to tackle. I have zero know how on automotive wiring but have done some light soldering modifications with electronics. Any advice would be appreciated so I don't screw up something big time and create even more work for myself