Yeah that's already been done , I just had him clean and pressure test for now and maybe more later .Originally Posted by timsrv
Yeah that's already been done , I just had him clean and pressure test for now and maybe more later .
Anyone ever cut an access hole for getting to fuel pump, etc.? I just dropped the tank on my van ("Red Stripe") for the second time and I'm getting pretty tired of it. Gonna have the tank cleaned this time. Still trying to decide whether to put in a cheap or expensive pump…there is quite a range out there. Any suggestions?
Definitely interested in this option.
I've often thought about cutting an access hatch for the sender unit and pump. I already have a bunch of other holes in the van, so why not a few more?
I think I'd just be worried about cutting it while the tank was still in place.
My tank is off now, so the timing would be perfect
I recently cut the Hose Of Death hatch on "Red Stripe" and my other Van and any future Vans will definitely get that treatment!
I've had a few tanks that were a bit hard to get out rusty nuts, stuck lines, etc, but when I remove these I clean up threads, apply anti seize compound, blow all the dust and road debris out etc. After that removing that same tank later is never an issue. Aside from the hassle of draining and/or dealing with damaged fasteners, I can typically drop one of these tanks inside 1/2 hr.
As for the pump, a while back I took a chance on an aftermarket fuel pump on eBay. It cost me around $40. It fit well and looked good (pics page 2 of this thread). It's been performing flawlessly over the past 35k miles. One curious thing I noticed is the application list for this pump is huge. It fits around 800 different makes, models & trim levels & is also used with diesel engines. Here's a link to the pump: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fue...dVn8TT&vxp=mtr
Tim, thank you for the info on the fuel pump, I went ahead and bought one
Almost bought 2, but I'm optimistic that my radiator shop will do a good job cleaning the tank and I won't need another pump anytime soonplus, I do have a $20 cheapie from Rock Auto that I think I'll keep in my emergency kit
(The pump sock filter was loaded with fine rust particles).
As for the access panel… Do you see any downside? I get that dropping the tank isn't that big a deal and can be an opportunity for the maintenance you describe. I might not even be considering the access hatch if it weren't for the fact that it rained so hard both times that I've dropped this tank, that even beneath the van there was no respite from the rain. This time, I was on a sloped street lying in a gully-washer
(I love these emoticons)
I don't know. To get easy access you'd need the hole to be kind of big (I'm thinking ~1 sq ft). Then, depending on what you use to cut it with, there's the potential of damaging the tank, hoses, or wires (unless you remove the tank 1st). You'd also need to map things out in advance to ensure there's no structure where you cut. Assuming there's no extra support there, you should be okay from a structural stand-point, but unless you patch and seal it well there could be concerns of exhaust gas getting inside the van. Then there's the extremely unlikely event of being t-boned and having the tank rupture. That sheet metal you're cutting through is an extra barrier between you and the gasoline, one that you wouldn't want compromised in such an event.
Since it's easy enough to simply drop the tank, I would think cutting/patching a hole through the floor would actually be harder.......especially if you damage something else in the process. BTW, if you cut the hole with the tank installed, I wouldn't recommend using a cutting torch
. Tim
HaHa, I've been out-emoticonned by the master!
This morning I am leaning away from cutting the hole, but if I do it, it will be soon, before I re-install the tank. I'll try to post some pics if it actually happens.
Thanks for all the good advice Tim!
I know it's been a while, but how did the aftermarket fuel sender work out? I'm in need of one now and may have to go this route since the Toyota part is NLA.
It works but the sweep is backwards. E light still comes on with 50mi left.
Some day I will put in a matching gauge. But it has been getting me by for several years.
These old vans have personality, and this is just one of those things.
Well that would certainly add personality
Forgive my ignorance.... What does that mean, that the sweep is backwards? Does it need to be modified to fit? Does it read true for the rest of the tank (other than the last 50 miles)? Thanks!
Hey Everyone,
The fuel senders are rebuildable. I actually just had tristarr radiator in New York rebuild mine and now it works accurately past the 1/4 mark. Now I just have to get the van running to see if the fix will last.
Will update....
-Marvin
Interesting, how much did that cost?
I paid 90 dollars. Rheostat was the issue. I called all around rying to find a solution and nobody local had one.
This might be the best fix by far if it continues to work.
Marvin
The sender on my 86 van started acting up at around 180k miles. I cleaned the rheostat with a pencil eraser and re-arched the contact arm and that fixed it. I just hit 250k with that van and it's still working good. I've seen the rheostat wires worn through before and I've seen holes worn through the arm. If that's the case, then rebuild would likely be your best bet. Tim
I also am having fuel gauge issues on my 86LE. Replaced the fuel pump, put the tank back in, and it started. Easy circuit, figure I must have shorted Point 1 to ground because it always shows full with 3 gallon sin the tank. Yanked the connector to the tank and it stays on fuel. Pulled the key out, stays on fuel. Pulled the instrument cluster out, stays on full.
Took the meter out stays on full. Pushed the needle back to E. Emulated the entire circuit on my bench with a 5K pot.
Gauge goes up but does not go down with a very delayed movement. I get that otherwise it will bound like hell. Same problem in my airplane. But in airplanes we don't use the gauge, we use time.
Anybody have this problem? I pulled the sender out and it was all messed up. Intermittent as hell and almost dead on its extremes. I think it is in the gauge but this is a funny duck. If I have to break in to fix I will use it as a sacrificial discovery process.
Any feedback out there would be nice. The tank is on the floor and the van is due to go out for A/C work next week. I hate to put it all back in just to have to take it all out again.
Tim, great pics on the tank dropping. I used a jack under the tank so it is not relying on the filler hose.
I ended up taking the tire off for even easier access. Piece of cake.
MyToy
Just a heads up for all of you with Inductive Fuel Gauges. This phenomena I explained in my previous post was due to a winding in the gauge used to stabilize the field. After dissecting and observing under a microscope, I discovered this winding was open causing the gauge to continually peg to full given even the least bit of DC. As Tim mentioned, the resistance to ground through the sender is about 100 ohms, however when the gauge is in this condition it will peg even at 1000 ohms
Very difficult fix. Best off finding one from salvage.
So mystery is over.
Have a Merry!
Hi! Having issue passing the smog check vapor test.
Smog Check mechanic said there is a vapor leak coming from the fuel gauge sending unit. Mechanic covered it with silicone and said there is still a leak from the unit.
Is it possible that these units can leak from anything more than a gasket? If so I'm thinking of repairing the unit (especially since they are not being made anymore) Does anybody have any experience with these? Anyone have one for sale?
Cheers!
Vana - Generally speaking they don't leak, but when gaskets fail or rust sets in, anything can happen.
Gooping a product on, is at best a stop gap measure, it needs to be properly diagnosed and corrected.
Until you drop the tank down and find out WHY its leaking we are all just making WAG's
It has been my experience that when something on top of the tank starts to leak, there is no magic goop that will solve the issue, at least for any length of time.
It may need a new sending unit or it could be the tank or it could be vapour lines or maybe something else.
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