Fuel gauge not working?

[TheCarolinian]

Rawb, sorry but until now I somehow missed your post. I'm sure you've already figured it out but I wanted to reply so the "next guy" could benefit.

The fuel filter is on the passenger side of the engine between the distributor and the oil filter (see arrow in picture below):


This is a big filter so unless you have a contaminated fuel system it should only need to be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals. To access and replace you must 1st remove the passenger side seat, center console and engine access panel. Before you remove any lines, loosen the fuel cap enough to release pressure from the system. When pressure is gone use a 6 point 17mm socket on the top banjo bolt and remove. After that's off use a 12mm socket with an extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block. The lower fuel line is flexible, so once the bracket bolts are removed the filter can be maneuvered to a position favorable to access the lower fitting. Again, a 6 point 17mm socket will fit the banjo bolt, but since the filter is loose you'll also need a 19mm open end wrench to back things up (counter torque). Tim

I just wanted to say thank you Tim.I'm not a mechanic and without the valuable information on this site I would have been so damned lost I might have just sold the van and been done with it.
I got my 86 Toyota cargo van on the road.My friend is a mechanic and after a brief look over he advised me to just drive it on short trips to shake things up and see what happens.I had been doing that for three days just puttering around and having a blast mind you,when after 175 miles I went to accelerate from a stop sign and she just bogged down hard.No stall but you could tell it was starved for fuel or air.I feathered the pedal and got her home just fine but I knew I had a problem.I had just recently replaced the fuel pump and the tank was horrible.On the advice of a mechanic I cleaned it thoroughly with white vinegar several times after removing the huge amount of rust that was in it,even with 6 gal. fuel.
Van ran fine after thatbut I knew I should replace the filter.Whether it's after market or not the van does have an inline filter on drivers side underneath it.I thought that that was the only filter I had to replace but after searching TVT forums I found out where the real filter was.So thank you very much.
I followed the procedure to replace step by step,no problems until I had to remove the filter.I think someone had impact ratcheted those banjo bolts.Anyway,I knew I was going to have a problem with the fuel line to the rail because it was bent at almost 90% and constricted a bit.Sure enough,when I replaced the filter I have a pinhole leak on the line at the top...
My question is,"would I be better off having a custom line built,maybe braided?"I'd really like some feedback on this.Thank you very much!






The splatter you see is PB Blaster,I got a bit messy with it because I didn't have the nozzle.

[timsrv]

The factory filter is worthless anyhow. After my tank was contaminated I kept clogging injectors (factory filter was not effective). I finally solved the issue with an aftermarket filter installation. Your crimped line will not matter, just cut it off at the crimp and splice it like I did here (page 2 this thread).




As for the 2nd filter, that does not belong. There is only the sock in the tank and the filter shown in your picture above. I would be concerned of anything down stream of this due to the pressure and heat in this area. If you leave it there, at the very least make sure it and the fuel line they used is rated for at least 50 psi. Personally I would get rid of it and rely only on the canister type filter I'm using. It completely solved all my contamination issues. I've been running it for over 15k miles now with no issues. Tim

[TheCarolinian]

Understood.Good info Tim,thank you.Let me ask you this though.Is there a way to do a "quick" fix in the meantime?

[timsrv]

With high pressure fuel lines there's really no such thing as a "quick fix". If you want to keep it all stock, then try to find a van in a salvage yard and steal the metal fuel line off of it. This may also be available new from Toyota, but these type parts are getting pretty scarce. It's Toyota part #23801-73010 and will cost you $40 - $50 depending on where you purchase (if it's even still available). Tim

PS: Since this is an uninterrupted steel line all the way to the fuel rail, if there's another filter, then they must have cut the line down stream of here anyhow. I'd get another steel line (new or used) regardless of what else you may decide to do. Tim

[TheCarolinian]

With high pressure fuel lines there's really no such thing as a "quick fix". If you want to keep it all stock, then try to find a van in a salvage yard and steal the metal fuel line off of it. This may also be available new from Toyota, but these type parts are getting pretty scarce. It's Toyota part #23801-73010 and will cost you $40 - $50 depending on where you purchase (if it's even still available). Tim

PS: Since this is an uninterrupted steel line all the way to the fuel rail, if there's another filter, then they must have cut the line down stream of here anyhow. I'd get another steel line (new or used) regardless of what else you may decide to do. Tim

The inline filter is on the underside of van just forward of fuel tank.I'll be removing it if it's uneccessary.
Thank you on that part#,that's exactly what I need.Found it here for right at $42 after shipping costs.
http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/2380173010

[timsrv]

Other than the short flexible rubber hose that transitions from the tank to the van, this line should be steel all the way up to the stock filter. If somebody cut and added a filter, depending on how they did it, this could be a safety issue. The fuel system is regulated to around 40 psi, but the pump is capable of much more. In the event of a crimped line or plugged up filter, I would think pressures could approach as much as 100 psi (It's why they use steel lines). To be safe I'd want any permanent solution to be rated for 100 psi or more. It's a shame if they hacked the line, but the good news is it's 8 mm which is almost exactly the same diameter as SAE 5/16". So close in fact that 5/16" brass compression fittings will adapt to this (as shown earlier in this thread) and the high quality rubber fuel line available today will easily withstand this pressure (just be sure to verify it's rated PSI and use the correct push-on barbed fittings). Not all parts stores have adequate selections to make these type repairs, but I've found Napa to have the best inventory. Tim

PS: Good luck on that metal line. Please be sure to let us know if it comes. I can't tell you how many times I've placed an order only to be notified the following business day that it's NLA. Tim

[TheCarolinian]

Other than the short flexible rubber hose that transitions from the tank to the van, this line should be steel all the way up to the stock filter. If somebody cut and added a filter, depending on how they did it, this could be a safety issue. The fuel system is regulated to around 40 psi, but the pump is capable of much more. In the event of a crimped line or plugged up filter, I would think pressures could approach as much as 100 psi (It's why they use steel lines). To be safe I'd want any permanent solution to be rated for 100 psi or more. It's a shame if they hacked the line, but the good news is it's 8 mm which is almost exactly the same diameter as SAE 5/16". So close in fact that 5/16" brass compression fittings will adapt to this (as shown earlier in this thread) and the high quality rubber fuel line available today will easily withstand this pressure (just be sure to verify it's rated PSI and use the correct push-on barbed fittings). Not all parts stores have adequate selections to make these type repairs, but I've found Napa to have the best inventory. Tim

PS: Good luck on that metal line. Please be sure to let us know if it comes. I can't tell you how many times I've placed an order only to be notified the following business day that it's NLA. Tim

Thanks Tim and I'll keep you informed.Really sad to see that P.S.,I hope I they do have it!

[TheCarolinian]

You were right Tim,that line is discontinued and probably not found anywhere aside from salvage.Taking the line to a shop today to see what we can come up with.Will let you know when mission is accomplished.

[timsrv]

Darn it! I hate being right sometimes . It's the banjo fitting that's going to be the bugger. Hopefully they'll have a solution for you. Tim

[TheCarolinian]

Hey Tim,you were so right man.That banjo fitting was a pain in the arse to find.I spent 4 1/2 hours in town at the local parts shops,including Napa and they came up empty.I was about to give up and then I remembered a manufacturing shop that I never would have even considered.After a ton of searching he came out with a banjo fitting the right size with the barbed end.$17 for that fitting and the copper crush washers... Anyway,I went back to Napa and got the high pressure fuel line and the compression fitting for another freaking $20.Got back to the van and installed the quick fix.After running for 15 minutes and then another 10 minutes it hasn't leaked at all.The pics below are before everything is refastened but you get the general idea.I think in the near future I will have the guys at the manufacturing shop make me a brand new line to spec.The guy says he can do it easily so I will see in the next 6 months or so.
Thanks again Tim for all of your input,it is very much appreciated my friend. ;) P.S. I included that last shot to show how I got the clamp crooked.It didn't leak at all but I fixed it after I took the pics.

[gushaman]

I would keep an eye on those screw type hose clamps, they have a tendency to get loose as the hose expands and contracts with temperature changes. I always use napa hose clamps, i get the widest ones that will fit. A nice fix, i wonder if someone previously bent the steel line when changing the filter, or maybe it rusted oit and thats why they changed the line type.

O nice fix tho. I am impressed. For future refernce you can find these typenof fittings at hydraulic hose shops.

[timsrv]

If you're using the type of fittings that require clamps, you should be using the proper ones. Size of clamp will vary slightly depending on the hose & barb diameter, but this is the type you want: http://www.amazon.com/AAS-Fuel-Injec...on+hose+clamps. I would also want a slight bulge on the end of the metal line to keep the rubber from sliding off. A "bulge" or "barb" can be added by putting a slight flare on the end with a standard flaring tool.

The kind of hose clamps you're using are old school from the days when automotive fuel pressures were 5 - 7 psi. Today's fuel injection systems run 10 times the pressure and can pump a lot of fuel in a short time. Things can get scary very quickly if a hose pops off. Tim

[TheCarolinian]

Thanks Gushaman and Tim!Really appreciate the feedback as I'm not a mechanic.I'm not scared to do the research and get my hands dirty though.
I'll replace those clamps tomorrow for sure!

P.S. I could only buy the high pressure fuel line by the foot so when I get the new clamps I'll cut another length of hose.

[TheCarolinian]

Forgot to take pics today until after I had already put the van back together.Got the clamps though and tested thoroughly,works perfect.In the near future I'll go with your more permanent fix Tim with the after market filter so hopefully I won't have this problem again.Thanks for your time and for everything you do with this site.It is invaluable!

[AR74]

Hey guys , I have a 89 4WD Auto , I dropped the tank and found a crap load of rust in it and it seems to be pitted up pretty good inside . I thought about cleaning it but honestly don't think it will do any good . I have a clean tank from a 2WD 5speed and they look identical but tried putting it in last night and it seemed to be snug but it was dark so I might not have slid it in right .....? Can you still find new tanks for the 4WD Vans ?

[timsrv]

From what I understand, 4wd tanks will fit okay on 2wd's but 2wd tanks don't fit well on 4wds. The 4wd tank has a relieved area formed into it so it won't interfere with the transfer case. Since the 2wd tanks are not relieved, there will likely be an interference issue if you put one on a 4wd. Since you got it up there, I'd take a good look to see where (if anywhere) it's hitting. Depending on the spot you might be able to mark it, take it back down, and strategically put a dent in it???

The Toyota part number for the tank you need is 77001-28300. If it's available, it's MSRP is around $600, but a brief search revealed it may be available on some discount sites for as low as $430 (which to me means NLA). Tanks can get pretty nasty inside, but IMO they can be cleaned and put back into service. Take a look at the one on page 2 of this thread. After cleaning I have put about 25k miles on it. If you go this route, I would also recommend an aftermarket filter set-up like I documented here on this thread.

There's also products like POR-15 that can work well in some instances. I've used this on old tractors with small simple tanks (with good results), but never on larger modern tanks with baffles, flappers and/or hard to reach areas..........not sure I would recommend that here. Tim

[AR74]

From what I understand, 4wd tanks will fit okay on 2wd's but 2wd tanks don't fit well on 4wds. The 4wd tank has a relieved area formed into it so it won't interfere with the transfer case. Since the 2wd tanks are not relieved, there will likely be an interference issue if you put one on a 4wd. Since you got it up there, I'd take a good look to see where (if anywhere) it's hitting. Depending on the spot you might be able to mark it, take it back down, and strategically put a dent in it???

The Toyota part number for the tank you need is 77001-28300. If it's available, it's MSRP is around $600, but a brief search revealed it may be available on some discount sites for as low as $430 (which to me means NLA). Tanks can get pretty nasty inside, but IMO they can be cleaned and put back into service. Take a look at the one on page 2 of this thread. After cleaning I have put about 25k miles on it. If you go this route, I would also recommend an aftermarket filter set-up like I documented here on this thread.

There's also products like POR-15 that can work well in some instances. I've used this on old tractors with small simple tanks (with good results), but never on larger modern tanks with baffles, flappers and/or hard to reach areas..........not sure I would recommend that here. Tim

Lk here's the deal , I got the 2wd tank in but it was too snug on the T-case so that was a no go . I ended up taking my 4wd tank to a radiator shop owned by a family friend , he said he could clean it but to save me some $$$ he told me how they do it and have done it for years . Pour 3 bottles of 100% Lye Grandules into tank fill will water , seal it up and leave in the sun for 2-3 days , pour it out , take a pressure washer and spray the inside really well , fill with enough gas to rinse it out and install it back on the vehicle and fill it to full , he said try and keep the tank as full as possible so condensation doesn't set in . Also take extreme caution to not get any Lye water on bare skin because it will eat flesh to the bone . I did exactly what he recommended and my tank came out clean as new inside !!!!!

[timsrv]

Awesome! Got any pics? I would like to know how it compares to my tank (after I cleaned it page 2 of this thread). If it's clean/shiny metal, then it sounds like it came out better than mine. When you say 3 bottles, how big were the bottles and where did you get them? I have a "van bone yard" here and have a feeling I'll eventually be doing this again. Tim

[AR74]

Awesome! Got any pics? I would like to know how it compares to my tank (after I cleaned it page 2 of this thread). If it's clean/shiny metal, then it sounds like it came out better than mine. When you say 3 bottles, how big were the bottles and where did you get them? I have a "van bone yard" here and have a feeling I'll eventually be doing this again. Tim

Sorry I did not get any pics , I know I should have !!! I believe the granule bottles only come in one size . You can find them at most Hardware Stores , I tried Lowes but they did not have any so your best bet would be
A small local hardware store . http://www.idealtruevalue.com/store/...FQsPaQodN7AHxw .

[timsrv]

That's very possibly a better way than mine. It's cheaper than the acid I used, and sounds like a lot less effort. I think I'll pick up a few bottles so I'll be ready for the next time I wake up an old van. Tim

I ended up taking my 4wd tank to a radiator shop owned by a family friend.....................

That guy sounds honest. Perhaps you should talk to him regarding your radiator issues HERE