Attachment 12764
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Well I guess my tie rod is the least of my worries now.
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First order of business is to get the radiator or shroud out of the fan. Then I can assess what still works and what doesn't. It runs and moves, I know that because I drove it from the flatbed into my driveway. The PS reservoir is broken with fluid everywhere. Oh well it needed a change anyway. Coolant system might hold coolant-although the reservoir was empty when I opened it nothing gushed out anywhere when i added water. I only saw a little coolant at the scene of the crime. Not sure if there is any hope for the ac core, I haven't tested if it held but it's sure looking sore. Tricky part might be hooking something onto the bumper to pull it out without damaging the core, if it isn't toast already, because those two are real cozy pals in the current state of things. Well on closer look I guess I can unbolt the bumper, if i can get at the bolts which are no longer behind their access holes. It's nice to know Toyota places styrofoam between the soft and hard bumpers, yessir that makes me feel very safe now. Airbags didn't deploy so that's a plus, or a minus, since they maybe should have?
Gotta give lotsa props to my GT Styling bug guard, the cheapest lightest version, which will live to grace another hood. My previous, more expensive one shattered into 20 pieces when it fell off once. Yes, that bug guard is the star of this operation here.
Oh no! Glad you're OK, first of all, assuming this happened with you inside.
Any indication that the frame has suffered at all or does it just look like front clip and accessory bay stuff?
Best of luck in this process. Never something you want to be dealing with.
Not sure I'm qualified to evaluate frame damage, I may have to have someone come look at it. To me it looks like the right side frame extension (to which the steel bumper bolts) is a bit wonky, but that's not where the impact was. A previous owner did have an accident on the right front side many years ago so it's possible it was bent then. I have always suspected lingering damage because the right wheel rubs on hard turns. I'm not sure how important that part of the frame is, certainly the main frame could not have been damaged by this.
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I cut some holes in the bumper and took the bumper off, and the ac core is certainly badly mangled. I've never messed with the high pressure side of ac before but the low pressure side is reading 0 if my gauge is working. I'd have to get that ac off before I can really assess the radiator but I can see it impacted the fan. I won't do remove the ac core unless I'm sure it deflated. Would sure be nice if I can this driveable for local use because it will be 3 weeks before I can get my 4runner in proper running order. But that seems unlikely to happen fast enough.
Thankfully I have my 93 parts van and a lot of the front parts are interchangeable, and some of them aren't even rusted. I may have a pretty hip looking tutti-frutti Previa if I can get it going again.
I think I have taken it as far as I can without any knowledge of what I'm doing lol. I need an exploded view of the whole front end, not individual components. Ive got the bumpers and grill off, discovering in the process that my left headlight assembly is shattered on the back end. But now I'm faced with a bunch of molded sheet metal, like where the headlights are recessed, that all seem to be (spot welded?) together AND possibly to the forward frame extensions with no visible way of removal. And all that stuff is bent and has to go. I still can't see any way of pulling the front out far enough so that I can at least see in there. I could wrap a strap around everything in front of the fan and tie that to a tree I guess, but I'd want to try and protect the radiator from further damage so I can still run it. I know it will need to be replaced before it can hit the road again...if it can hit the road again
I presume not too many Previa owners have been in this boat, maybe I should find a collision repair group
I managed to get the blower and housing out, being slightly but reparably broken helped. Then I got the partial upper shround thingie out and I can now see the back of the radiator from above. One of the fan blades broke off. When I squeezed the lower hose trying to get the main shroud off, I heard the telltale spitting of a hole near the top of the radiator. I think I have to remove one or both hoses to get the shroud off, it doesnt look broken so I don't want to break it. The blower housing had been pushed up against the wiper linkage, disconnecting the link, which I think that is an easy fix but didn't pay much attention. (Edit: it popped right back on.) Not knowing how much coolant is in there has me nervous about running it to try and pull it out, once I even get to that point. I think maybe taking the radiator out completely so I can assess the situation better, then using my other vehicle for "dent pulling" might be the way forward. I called the only body shop within 30 miles for an opinion on the frame, they said they'd come out today but I suspected they wouldn't come. And I was right.
Everything behind the fan looks OK. I don't think the frame cross member is damaged at all, and that's all that matters.
Needs new headlight
new fan
new steel bumper (I may have one)
new rubber bumper (I have one)
new PS reservoir
new ac condensor (these are apparently different then my 93's)
new radiator (" " " ")
new grill (I have one)
new hood (I have one)
repair or replace blower housing (I have one).
repair/replace intake "scoop"
I can do all of that, so all I really need is
1) someone who knows wtf they're doing to straighten things so I have an aligned surface to work with
2) front fenders may need straightening/alignment/adjustment. One is pinching the driver's door and the other separated an inch or so from the windshield area. Mostly cosmetic so not critical
FSM:
1) Remove the receiver
2) remove the bolts holding the condensor
ME: So where TF are the F$#@ bolts holding the condensor? I've spent forever trying to find them!
Just venting.
OK, I figured out how to get the condensor out. Going against Man_btc's signature advice ""If you find yourself holding a sledgehammer or a crowbar, it's time for a break." i reached for the crowbar and pried that sun of a bee out. The bolts I had already removed, and just didn't know it by the way that sucker was wedged in there.
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Now we are getting somewhere!!!! Now the secrets of what holds the Previa front end together are finally exposed, and there really isn't anything holding it together. It appears that nothing but sheet metal holds everything in place. I expected something more substantial but haven't found it yet. The radiator is almost unscathed on the front side. It appears that nothing holds it and the condensor and the grill in place but sheet metal, mostly the cross member where the hood latch is and a couple wings of metal coming from the sides. That cross member is probably unsalvageable if I want a hood that closes but a new one could be welded in easily, though not by me. It might even be bolted in, I haven't investigated it much yet
This might not be as impossible as I originally thought. I doubt the front will ever be pretty again but I might just go for the demolition derby look. But I don't want to get too far ahead. I still need to get the fan out of the radiator shroud, fill it with coolant, and see if it can run and drive to evaluate it for more serious problems that I don't think it will have. I think I can use this radiator for the testing-the upper radiator hose is still completely full so I don't think I've lost much coolant at all.
It looks like the 3 main body parts I need to replace are known as the radiator support sub assembly, and includes the parts behind the headlights.
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...497139-4497139Attachment 12781
They appear to be all welded together since no bolts or screws are shown, am I wrong in my interpretation? But are they also welded to the fender aprons? Guess I'll find out. Still, shouldn't be a big deal if I can source clean ones and find a welder. I'll have to check if my 93 parts van falls within the date range for that assembly...it may not.
Rats. Those parts are not the same on my 93, although I wonder how different they could be. They use the same diagram. i could pull a headlight on the 93 and see what's different, but maybe I shouldn't bother. There could be subtle differences that affect which radiator and condensor I can use (I know those are different) so i should probably source the correct parts to save myself future headaches.
There are 3 apparently good front ends listed in my state online, including one less than 30 miles away. I suspect they are long gone but will find out Monday
Good news and bad news. The bad news is I pulled the bumper cover off the 93, only to find the bumper behind it (they call it a "reinforcement") uselessly rusted. The other bad news is by measuring the reinforcement bolt spacing on the 93 I determined that the front passenger side frame extension (for lack of a better term) is bent 3" toward center, as I suspected. There was no impact there either-this bend came entirely from the giant V I put in the reinforcement, which apparently pulled that frame member toward center.
The good news is there is a perfect front end in a salvage yard not 30 miles from here, so if that bumper isn't rusted I shouldn't be wanting for parts. I talked to the local collision repair and the frame can probably be repaired for 300-500. So assuming no other surprises once it's on the lift I should be able to get it back on the road, albeit differently colored, for about a grand, doing all of the other work myself.
Edit: I just learned Previas don't actually have a frame, its a unibody. Never knew dat.
Sorry to hear about that. I got one with front end damage years ago (although not quite as bad). I fixed it in this thread: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...ont-end-Damage
Oh, oh oh awesome!!!! Thank you for that link!! Its good to know I am not the first going into what is totally uncharted waters for me. I guess your "core support" is my "radiator support assembly", and you even figured how I can get the new used one attached for me! (I certainly don't weld). I hope you will check in more as I will surely run into questions and problems.
Today I hooked up some straps and pulled the tie bar out a bit (what I was calling the cross-member before) and drained the radiator so I can remove it and reinstall it for test runs. Pulling the tie bar dismounted it, but that was a good thing because until it dismounted I wasn't even sure how it mounted. I think once I get the shroud out of the way I can remount rad and test drive. Replacing the fan with one broken blade is probably optional for now.
I even started to wonder if I can straighten that bent "frame extension" myself. I'm not sure of the wisdom of pulling on it sideways using redneck methods though, would I possibly damage wheel bearings or steering? I was thinking to insert a heavy steel pipe as a lever, I wouldn't attempt to pull directly on the "frame" which would be pointless
Probably not a good idea to run it with the broken fan. It will very likely be quite unbalanced and may have other cracks that could cause it to grenade when it starts spinning at speed. Your progress is looking great by the way! I've done some jobs like that. It always seems intimidating until you get started and then, aside from the damage you couldn't see, the actual repairs are easier than you thought they'd be. Plus you always learn something along the way that makes the job easier the next time you have to do it.
Couple questions came up once I got the radiator off and could see a bit better. It looks like something may have become dislodged from the side of the throttle body.
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There's 2 screws there that look like they should be holding something.
I found a picture on another thread here that appears to show a black cover of something that is attached by those screws, but I'm not sure what it is or how it may affect running. Is that the throttle position sensor? I know it starts and runs but I haven't run it more than 30 seconds
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I can't really tell from that picture, but if it is the TPS, the rest of it should be hanging from the wires near that location. The TPS is a bit more important on the automatic transmission Previas as it also influences the transmission shift points.
If the Frame extensions are bent very bad, after it's apart I'd probably trailer it to a frame shop for straightening. There may be other redneck things you could do, but most frame shop guys know their craft and they should be able to make short work of it. What money it costs will be well worth it. It's always best to "build back" on a straight foundation. Tim
I think the TPS is on the other side of the throttle body. It appears intact.
There is something dangling nearby, but that was going to be a separate question. Whatever it is has a bracket where 2 screws or bolts should attach it to something, but it wouldn't fit on those throttle body screws. They are too closely spaced and the hoses don't reach that far. It has a bunch of hoses and an electrical component, whatever it is. I'm going blind trying to decipher parts diagrams
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It may have been dangling all along, I dunno, it doesn't get in the way of anything but the mounting bracket is presumably there for a reason.
Here's a better view of that thing. Hoses connect it to the supercharger and throttle apparatus so i presume its some sort of sensor or tells the SC when to do or not do it's thing. I can tell it was mounted by at least one bolt at one time, but it doesn't look real fresh, the other bolt hole is unmarked so it may have dangled free for a long time.
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And oh look! The best view you'll ever get of an all-wheel drive's SC dipstick! Guess Ill check it while the checking is easy. Ahh no, thats not it. Sure looked like it from the picture though. Its just as hard to see and reach as ever. :rol:
Am I correct that a power steering reservoir is a power steering reservoir is a power steering reservoir? Mine is broken, but I have the 93 reservoir. They arent interchangeable part #s but only visible difference is how it mounts and where the hose exits and goes to the pump, so I presume it will be fine to wire it up for test driving purposes. I need something to keep fluid from pumping out all over, and power steering will be a big help for diagnosing any steering issues.
Well I started it but the idle is high and the radiator sprays a fine spray of coolant all over the underhood area. I took it out to the corner 50 feet from my driveway and did a couple circles each direction. It felt fine, the steering was fine, although I didn't test it for pulling on straightaways it responds perfectly in turns. It started screaming though, so I came right back. Sounds like something from the belt driven components, but that remains to be seen. Sure hope it's not SADS related, might just be because belts were wet. I will have to buy a radiator for any more lengthy testing, still some troubles ahead but it's progress! (I think)
Yes the area with 2 screw where it appeared there may be something missing is the IACV, but I found enough pictures of others to put my mind at ease.
I dont know what an ACV is, only the IACV.
That dangling thing has a connector whose wires disappear into a harness, and 3 hoses. Two go to metal tubes emerging from the SC and the third goes into the black aluminum pipe that enters the airway between filter and throttle. (Not the infamous "black flake pipe" which is silver). 2 little hoses on the IACV looked like they had almost pulled off, so maybe that caused the high idle. I don't plan to run it again until I get a new radiator
The part number for the ACV is 25740-76010, at least on my SC Estima. Megazip.net has a diagram of it and the SC. I recently just discovered it myself after trying to find why my SC won't keep oil. I read that the ACV is specially made to prevent a sort of pressure difference from the SC have oil creep up the tube. So I thought that maybe the ACV was faulty but it seems to be within spec. So it must be the SC seals as others have had the same problem.
i was so excited my new radiator came today. But it doesn't have the outlet for the hose to the throttle body. :pissed:
The one I bought was an Agility Auto Parts 8011749, which Rock Auto sells for my van. Fortunately I did not buy it from them, because they are such a pain to deal with on returns.
You probably bought the same Agility radiator that they sell. I just avoid Rock Auto when possible because they charge for shipping and are PIA to deal with.
i suppose that's one way to do it though. What is the purpose of the filter? There was no filter on mine.
Anywho, I ordered another radiator that should have the correct fitting.
I'd like to see something like this in my future
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Rad #1 departed, radiator #2 arrived, it's a Lynol LR1749 and it has all the right tubes. FedEx managed to poke the lower radiator hose outlet through the box, but it's OK, and they managed to kink one of the tranny cooler tubes and i was worried my old one wouldn't fit, but it did. Phew. Should be ready for a serious test tomorrow. Wish it luck. I'm in big doo-doo if there are unexpected problems.
I'm rather miffed that the body shop told me to send pictures so they could estimate it (they didn't seem very interested in the job at all), and now they haven't responded at all. If I get it running I'll be parking it in front of their office and won't budge until they bring it into the shop and look at it.
Finally a Happy Day. :yes: :dance2: I let it warm up good and drove it about 3 miles. Some initial pulley noise up front but that went away. The idle is still super high, but that's the only issue I noted.It must have jarred something on the throttle body or it's attachments. But it turns great, no road noise, and doesn't vibrate or pull at all. :silvervan:
I will see if I can pull any codes but probably not, CEL light is always on due to neglected EGR
Well my happy didn't last long. Drive it to the body shop and he said 6 hours just to straighten the rails. They still haven't sent me the estimate so I don't know how much that is but its more than I wanted to pay, I'm sure. On the bright side I've now driven it about 15 miles with no problems.
The filter traps the paint flakes from the hard coolant pies between the radiator and the engine that clog the double wall throttle body pipe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkF0lthUZm0
OK, I've heard of people doing that, but I figured they put it right in front of the T-junction. Never had that that problem on this particular Previa.
Well the estimate was brutal. $925 just to straighten the rails, $1600 to install the radiator support too. :pissed::no::no::no::no::no::pissed:
Must be nice making $110 an hour. Of course they had to add a "set up" fee on top of the labor hours. :wall:
I don't know what I'm going to do now. I still have the frame shop 30 miles away, but its illegal to drive without a bumper. I suppose I could wire my spare, rusty-as-heck backup bumper to the front somehow.
I was able to get 2 bolts in one side of the rusty bumper reinforcement from my parts van, and wired/roped/bungeed up the other side. Then i called state patrol and they said the metal reinforcement is all I need to be legal. Sweet. Switched the hood over from the parts van, and I am ready to roll 30 miles to the frame shop tomorrow. If its too costly to fix properly, I'll just do it the redneck way.
I've now driven it 100 miles so any worries about major mechanical damages are in the rear view mirror, which, I'm happy to say, was not damaged in the accident.
Frame shop quoted me $800. He thinks I can keep the cross tie assembly and he thinks I will be amazed at what he can do for that 800. He is very proud of his work and showed me a bunch of pictures. And unlike the other shop, he didnt seem like he was too good to work on a 27 year old Toyota. Plus he likes Toyotas, and drives Toyotas, and owns multiple Toyotas. So I believe him. Its more than I wanted to pay but since I won't have to spend $150 on a new crosstie assembly and do all that drilling and riveting I think I will do it. I still need to find a rust-free bumper reinforcement and a new left headlamp.
And I'm gonna keep driving it now.
Scheduled for the 24th to drop it off for straightening. Got the grill and bumper filler piece off the 93 parts van, but it wasn't easy. I knew exactly how the grill should come off, but the clips just wouldn't cooperate. But I finally got it, only breaking one clip. I have several good clips from my damaged one, so all is good.
I had to cut the tab off the fender where it bolts to the filler, because those bolts were so rusted I would have twisted the tab off the filler. I don't know how I ever lived without an angle grinder before this accident. Now I have the bolts soaking in PB Blaster in the garage, where I'm sure they will come off harmlessly in a day or two.
The 93 hood had a different prop/support mechanism, which was broken, so I had to switch the one over from the 97. But the 93 wasn't drilled for the 97's bolt, so I had to buy a tap to tap that hole. Unfortunately I could not get the retaining clip out of the 97 without breaking it, so I'll have to get another clip or come up with an alternative way to fix it in place when not in use.
Tuesday I will visit another 97 in the junkyard to hopefully retrieve a proper power steering reservoir, since the 93's is only working because the blower housing isn't installed. I will not be able to keep using it. I will check out other parts I may need, like an upper blower housing and hood clip.
They said their left headlight was a C Grade so I ordered one from across the state. It's probably a B-. I also ordered a bumper reinforcement with only a little surface rust from the same place, $125 shipped. The local one had been sitting in the junkyard for 6 years so I figured there was virtually no chance the reinforcement was good, and they refused to take it off to find out.
I will have to wait and see if the 93's bumper cover can be fitted to the 97. They are different, but I'm hoping there's a way.
Inch by inch...
That's awesome. I'm glad to hear you're working through all the little problems. :thmbup:
Tuesday came, and to the junkyard I went. I rode my bike around in the sweltering sun for an hour, up and down, up and down, back and forth, past desolate rows of crumpled Toyotas. Never found the Previa they said they had. :no:
And thanks to the State of Wisconsin not processing my invoice promptly, I may have to push my appointment on the 24th back a couple weeks. Oh well that gives me more time to find a power steering reservoir.
The moment of truth and financial pain is nigh. Dropped off the van yesterday for the pricey straightening job, and hope that "I will be amazed" as he said I would. But I don't get my hopes up in these things.
I received a new ac condenser and am ordering a PS reservoir today so should be ready for complete reassembly if I am amazed. If the tie bar still needs replacement when he's done, that will cost me another $225 and many hours of not fun so lets hope I'm amazed.
Also there was an OEM front end mask on ebay that I was going to buy on the 20th when I got paid. It sold on the 18th. :no: It could be years before I see another one. So I guess I will be silver-maroon until then
That shop sounded oddly enthusiastic about working on a Previa. Have you checked on them to see that they didn't get carried away? :dance2:
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