my front end thread

The tire shop (the same one that cross-threaded my lugnut) told me my right outer tie rod was just starting to go bad months ago, but they said it wasn't of immediate concern so I postponed it. Since i'm not well versed in front end diagnosis I watched a youtube video, and based on that I ordered both outer tie rods. Then I watched a better video and decided I may not have driver side tie rod problems at all but I most definitely have a right INNER tie rod problem. It's kind of hard to diagnose the outer when the inner is bad, without a helper or without disconnecting it. Since i already bought the outer I might as well replace it with the inner.

Anyway do you need a special tool for inner tie rod on Previas? I haven't taken off the little access cover to a good look at it yet. I am going to take it to an alignment shop and have them diagnosis whatever else may be wrong, and then fix it all myself before getting an alignment.

When I did my inners a few years ago a mechanic friend loaned me his personal tool. It was awesome and made the job fairly straightforward. I recall thinking that a tool like this was essential to avoid otherwise inevitable nightmarish scenarios involving the copious discharge of profanity and blood. The tool was a self-adjusting Matco inner tie rod tool ITRT299. It no longer seems to be available and I bet it was expensive. Maybe ebay? I'm sure there are other similar tools which work well, but this one comes recommended by me - a suspension 101 student.

Sounds like I better make friends with a mechanic.


Well its the summer of blood anyway. i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal. And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.

Harbor freight makes a reasonably priced tool https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-58391.html
All depends on if I want to believe the 5 star reviews or the 1 star reviews.

I also found a cheaper Matco tool for "smooth" tie rod ends but I don't know if mine are smooth. I'm guessing no.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/ITRT94?

Firestone charges 120 for an alignment and 20 for an inspection. I've read indie shops are more knowledgeable (which i suspected was the case) so I called one. Free inspection and 80 dollar alignment. Going for the inspection tomorrow so maybe i will sneak a good look at that inner tie rod end.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

i can't count the times I banged my head changing the clutch on my 4runner this spring...twice. And there might be a third time coming if that oil drip is coming from my brand new rear main seal.

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Two words for ya. Bump Cap. Check them out on Home Depot for example. I've occasionally been told I wind up looking like Darth Vader with the PPE I tend to wear, but unlike Vader, I can take it off later and be fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

And other fun knuckle-busting jobs to come.

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One word. Ironclad Look for them on ebay for lower prices. Not for touch-sensitive work but great for still being able to count to 10 later without using your toes. (Yes, also steel-toed shoes/boots for anything determined to head straight through your feet into the ground).

If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.

For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

Firestone (or Midas or whoever)

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Hopefully well-rated, but in any case, tell them to do what you ask and Not. Touch. Anything. Else. You wouldn't be surprised how easy it is to break someone's old crustified plastic & rubber parts while moving and disconnecting stuff looking for extra "suggested maintenance" items to charge for. The quickie electrical-tape patch on your air intake - or whatever else they didn't reconnect or broke- is going to be the reason for the next check-engine-light.

And don't be surprised when when the kid looks at your my-friend's-mom-had-one-of-those van and says "How do you pronounce that? 'Pree-vee-yuh?'"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by man_btc

Two words for ya. Bump Cap.

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I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

Quote:

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One word. Ironclad

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Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

Quote:

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If you're starting to wonder if I'm the type that puts "Watch Your Head" warning stickers near the floor adjacent to tables, drawers and over-the-edge table vises...yep.

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I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.

Quote:

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For tie rod tools check out rentals at NAPA

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Nope, nobody seems to rent them.

I got the older more experienced guy at the shop and he said both outer tie rods are good (so glad I bought those already...grrr) and right lower ball joint are bad. Along with the left strut and inner right tie rod end, which i already knew. More fun awaits. I haven't done a ball joint in decades.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

I was thinking "helmet." Actually most of the time I wore a gungy old thick hoodie to protect my noggin because I started the job in April and it was still pretty cool laying on the garage floor anyway. You can't imagine how much the edge of a mud flap can hurt. Or maybe you can.

Yeah I had to wear nitrile gloves on the clutch job because there is so much oil everywhere from leaky everything. Fortunately there wasn't much knuckle-busting on that job. But I will definitely wear real gloves for the upcoming work.

I did that for a while after a traumatic experience when I could not concentrate or really function at all. Thankfully that improved some, but I'm still something of a head banger.

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The ol'follicle-based konk-proximity sensors are pretty sparse these days and I had gone to a baseball cap, but after I came really close to needing stitches from a garage-door track, I discovered bump caps. They're very inexpensive, and akin to what you'd expect a kid's play-hardhat to look like - not good enough to protect against heavy falling objects, but fine against a bump against the edge of anything that could abrade, bruise or cut.
Attachment 12711
As for gloves for oily jobs that don't require a delicate touch, I use SAS Raven 2XL Nitriles over Mechanix gloves.

For dealing with rust dissolver and brake cleaner fumes plus 20+ years' of rusty debris from underneath, there's the Darth Previa getup. Beats a trip to the ER now or a pulminologist later.
Attachment 12710

Cutting the sway bar links off of my rustbucket 4runner tonight, I was reminded several times why your silly idea of a bump cap might actually be a good idea, lol.

I own the Harbor Freight inner tie rod tool, after a tool theft relieved me of my Matco one. I can say, it performs very well! Not sure if it would hold up to commercial use, but for occasional use, I've done probably 20 inner tie rods so far with no problems.

Awesome, thanks for letting me/us know!

Thanks to my accident, I was not able to do any front end work except accident repairs when I was home in my nice heated attached garage. I was hoping that I would be able to make it through the winter and replace my struts and other parts when I get back, but I don't think I should wait that long. I have to drive it on some pretty bumpy dirt roads where I am working in a not all that toasty part of the SW, and the left strut especially feels terrible. I think I now have to repair it outside, in cool but sunny temps, on a rather steeply sloped driveway. Fortunately I brought most of my tools, a trolley jack, and one cute little 1500 lb jack stand. I almost brought a chock block, but said naaahhhhh...fortunately there's a HF in town so I can grab one. Or two, for cheap.

I have to refresh my memory, reread websites and rewatch videos like

Changing Both Sides Front Shocks / Struts 1995 Previa [ Tarago Previa Estima TCR ] by Previa Legend - YouTube

(which I haven't actually watched yet)

Until then, what all do I need besides the struts? I'm just going with KYB struts, but do I also need the upper and lower spring insulators? I presume so, because they look old. What about spring seats, bumpers and strut mounts? Can I reasonably hope to get by with the old ones, or no? Thanks to the holidays I am on a strict budget until mid-late January, but I also need to have everything on hand (in case) because I need to make sure I get the job finished in a weekend. That might seem easy, but I'm good at making easy things take forever.

I am only going to attempt the left one for now, as it is in bad shape. Once I get that done I'll worry about the right.

answering my own question after some research...yup, I'm gonna replace everything, possibly even the stabilizer link as long as I'm in there.

I hope it won't be too problematic for driving to do one side and then the other a bit later. I read that some people have camber issues after doing the job and I hope that I'm not one of them either...

I guess I will save a few bucks and use the KYB mount too. I haven't heard of anyone having trouble with them, but if you have, speak up please!

I haven't done inner tie rods on a Previa, but I have on a van. I'm guessing it's not that different. Once you get the billows off it should be pretty straight forward. I didn't use any special tools, I just used normal wire tires to hold the new billows in place and it worked good. As to the struts, here's an old thread that may be of some help: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...eady-need-help!!

FWIW, FYI -

I replaced my front struts in 2019, had a shop remove the springs and install them on KYB "Excel-G" struts using these parts:

(KYB Parts from JCWhitney)

Shock absorber and Strut assemblies:
KY235040 Front Driver's
KY235039 Front Passenger's

Shock & Strut Mount
KYSM5090 x2

(Toyota Parts From Olathe Toyota at the time)

48157-28010 Insulator, Front Coil Spring Upper x2
48158-28010 Insulator, Front Coil Spring Lower x2
48304-28010 Strut Bumper x2


I went with this combo because I had seen a comment that Toyota sources the KYB struts but uses their own "open" bellows-boot that dries quickly as the closed KYB can hold water if it develops an exterior crack.

For stabilizer links, I used these:

(Aftermarket from NAPA)

265-1477 Left front stabilizer (sway bar) link
265-1478 Right front stabilizer (sway bar) link

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timsrv

[...] here's an old thread that may be of some help: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...eady-need-help!!

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Thanks yep, I already have that thread bookmarked. I've browsed it before but I'll read it again. I really hope to avoid doing the tie rods until I get back home because I would want 2 better jackstands, but I will be keeping a close eye on them. They were not very bad at last check.

I took off the lower drivers side dash panel today and found the strut mount bolts. Only one of them looks like it will be a real pain, but I'm going to try and crack them and retighten them in advance so everything goes smooth and quick on the day of the job. I will be cutting a slot in the brake line brackets so I don't have to open the brake lines. I may have to ride 20 miles on my bike with the strut assembly on my back unless I decide to rent spring compressors.

The left stabilizer link decision has been made for me. It is toast. I may even just change that first and see how much difference it makes. Maybe most of the racket is coming from that, although I know the strut is shot too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by man_btc

FWIW, FYI -

I replaced my front struts in 2019, had a shop remove the springs and install them on KYB "Excel-G" struts using these parts: [...]

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Ah, thank you for that. I already sourced the parts and its good to know our numbers all match. That's exactly what I plan to do, except the left stabilizer link is still available so I may order that if shipping isn't excessive. It may be, because they are overseas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by man_btc

FWIW, FYI -


I went with this combo because I had seen a comment that Toyota sources the KYB struts but uses their own "open" bellows-boot that dries quickly as the closed KYB can hold water if it develops an exterior crack.

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On 2nd read, I'm not sure what you mean by this. What is "boot"?

The rubber skirt if you will that protects the top part of the strut. Here's the Toyota one which has a smooth surface, and another with ridges that I assume has the issue about water retention that was expressed.

Attachment 13074

Attachment 13075

That's what I figured you were referring to, but that comes with the strut, doesn't it? Are you saying you switched out the KYB accordion boot for the original Yota boot from your old strut?

Since I haven't done this before its hard to know what I'm looking at, but the KYB doesn't seem to have the accordion boot. Is it just not showing in the pic, or did they change since 2019? I can't tell if that's a smooth boot or part of the shock in the pic

Attachment 13076

I just noticed for the first time that my good right side has the accordion boot, but the left side has the smooth one, now drenched with shock oil. .

That smooth thing in the first pic is a cylindrical rubber "boot." I'll check later about whether the strut comes with it - don't remember and can't check until later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

I just noticed for the first time that my good right side has the accordion boot, but the left side has the smooth one, now drenched with shock oil. .

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That difference suggests that the left side has the original strut, while the right side is a replacement.

The "48304-28010 Strut Bumper" on my list is the part that covers some of the strut; the other disk-like "insulators" cover the ends of the springs. So, the strut just comes as the metal assembly with nothing else included. And yes, I replaced everything - I generally approach Previa repairs with the same strategy I use when going to Walmart - what is it I can do to make the length of time before I have to revisit as long as possible?

Also, for further info, here are two Yahoo! Previa Group documents to peruse in addition to the link Tim provided earlier. Note that there is an opinion about how great the KYB boots were because they completely sealed the strut versus the open-bottom Toyota design, so opinions vary. I haven't checked to see whether that's the current KYB design. You will see the part called out in a diagram on one of the docs. Note the newer "104" document

Attachment 13077

references the earlier "Yahoofiles" one.

Attachment 13078

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Kaufmann

That difference suggests that the left side has the original strut, while the right side is a replacement.

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That's what I was thinking too. So one of the numbskulls before me changed one strut only.

After watching Samay's video a couple times I don't know why this is such a dreaded job, or so expensive for a shop to do. Hopefully I don't find out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by man_btc

FWIW, FYI -

I replaced my front struts in 2019, had a shop remove the springs and install them on KYB "Excel-G" struts using these parts:

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what did they charge? I can't find anyone close who will do it. I may have to ride 20 miles round trip on my bike with the old strut and spring on my back to get to a shop. If I can even find one. I found one backyard mechanic who says he has compressors but he has never done it. He hasn't gotten back to me with his price.

Is the spring seat 48044-28010 reusable? I notice you didn't list that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

what did they charge? I can't find anyone close who will do it. I may have to ride 20 miles round trip on my bike with the old strut and spring on my back to get to a shop. If I can even find one. I found one backyard mechanic who says he has compressors but he has never done it. He hasn't gotten back to me with his price.

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I had it done at a small local shop which was a short drive away (sorry). It was a handshake/cash deal, so no receipt. I want to say, $60 for the two struts? I'm assuming he had one of those nice wall-mounted compressors, not the separate bar-clamp kind that scare me, but I really don't know. There's the spring-compression of course, but also lining things up properly that I wasn't entirely confident about getting right the first time while also worrying about injury. I'm really leery of messing with those springs - still have a couple of used Camry struts (replaced with all-in-ones)sitting in my scrap-metal pile I'm hoping I can get rid of intact.

As for carrying one on a 20-mile bicycle trip - yow, that sounds pretty bad, and kind of unsafe - those things are heavy and awkward.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

Is the spring seat 48044-28010 reusable? I notice you didn't list that.

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Yeah, those were reused. I don't see why you'd have to replace metal parts like them unless they were seriously damaged. The parts I listed - the rubber spring "insulators" and the combo "skirt"-&-bumper become brittle and lose integrity over time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

what did they charge [to move springs from old struts to new struts]? I can't find anyone close who will do it. I may have to ride 20 miles round trip on my bike with the old strut and spring on my back to get to a shop. If I can even find one. I found one backyard mechanic who says he has compressors but he has never done it. ...

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It's not that big a job. The first time I changed Previa struts I got HF compressor pair for <$20 (twice that now), and later their bigger compressor, which makes the job a little easier and faster, because I expected to do that job routinely (not anticipating the trend toward integrated strut/spring sets). (The bigger compressor is also now more than twice what I paid for it.) The main advantage of the bigger compressor, besides the speed, is that it did not need a vise to hold the strut.

I did that job three or four times on our Previa, so figure I got my money out of the compressors -- especially since one shop charge would pay for them. How long do you anticipate being a Previa doctor?

I'm on the fence about that...sometimes I think its time to move on, but being poor limits my options. So I don't really know. I'll defin itely drive this one until it doesn't drive anymore, and that should be/damn well better be at least a few more years.

I can rent compressors at all the parts stores, and get refunded when I return them so cost isn't an issue. I'd rather pay someone 30-50 bucks though. I definitely did not bring a bench vice with me, or even a bench. I did bring my high anxiety about potentially dangerous jobs though lol

Found someone who will do it for 60 bucks, only a 14 mile round-bike trip but a bit spendy

Still hoping the guy less than a mile away calls back.

Parts are trickling in after massive headaches and delays dealing with Japan. I have almost everything except the OEM stabilizer link, and that hasn't even shipped from UAE yet. :pissed: But I will still save at least 5 bucks over an aftermarket one. and if not for shipping it would have been more like $25 saved.

But I have the strut, mount, bumper sub-assy, insulators, and bearing dust cover and seal. I'm not even sure if I need those last 2 with the KYB strut, and KYB was perfectly useless in answering that question. Well heck I have the strut and mount so I guess I can see if they fit together somewhere...

Still need to pick up a cutting tool at Harbor Freight.


EDIT: yes, the OEM dust seal and cover fit just fine on the KYB. Kind of weird they don't come with it and KYB knows nothing about them. :cnfsd: :?:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by man_btc

(Aftermarket from NAPA)

265-1477 Left front stabilizer (sway bar) link

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What incredible trouble I caused myself by not just ordering from NAPA. My opinion of megazip has plummeted over my last two transactions. On my 2nd to last order the item was backordered, and they didn't tell me even after I paid for it. I waited and waited and waited. So they then advised me I should always check with them to make sure items are in stock before ordering, so this last time I did that. But they told me I had to place the order and just not pay for it before they could check the suppliers. So I did, but all of this takes time, going back and forth 1 email per day for me, one email reply in the middle of the night from them. Then they tell me that replies from suppliers can take up to 5 business days, and of course its now a Thursday. 5 business days means a full 7 day week, the following Wednesday. So I waited until Monday growing ever more disgusted, because I still have to wait for the order to be "handled" (4-7 days) then shipped (7-11 days)! On Monday or Tuesday my patience wore out-I still had not heard if any of the items are in stock, so I just paid for my order so at least the handling time clock would start ticking. Good news, they reply the next day and say everything is in stock! But 11 business days later, my stabilizer link still hasn't shipped, so I emailed them. Oh, that is backordered they now tell me, 11 days after telling me everything is in stock. :pissed::pissed::pissed: "It should be in stock around the 21st". I wait a few days, nothing. I would still have to wait 4-7 days handling, and then another week or two for delivery so I canceled it today, 3 weeks after starting this order. :pissed::pissed::pissed:

Napa also has an ATM (Altrom) sway bar link 1032445 that fits. Its only $14, and the internet seems to think ATM parts are good so I ordered one. Napa wanted 20 bucks special order shipping, but napaonline only charged me $10. So after a month of hassle I will have one for less then the $18 OEM part +$15 shipping that probably wouldn't have arrived until August anyway. Maybe I can finally get this job started the last weekend in Feb.

Oh, and Napa is charging $90 for the 265-1477 link.

NAPA online was good to me. Got my ATM/Ultra 8 link on Monday and it looks to be good quality.

The chore has begun. Problems cropped up right away. I decided to start loosening stuff in the wheel well because I expected more problems there, and couldn't get the stabilizer link loose. I was thinking I might have to cut it off like I had to do with my 4runner last summer, until I realized the cutoff tool I bought just for this job (to cut the brake brackets) could not get at the lower nut at the correct angle. Finally I coaxed the nuts loose (thank you, hammer). Then I realized I would have the same problem, only worse, on the rear brake line bracket. But I'm committed now. I'm hoping once the strut is free I can maneuver it to where I can get at that bracket with the cutter. My plan is to take the strut to a shop on my bike Monday, if I can, and have a coworker from another town drive me and my bike back home when she comes through. I noticed I need new brake lines but that's going to have to wait until summer when I get home, if I live that long. :)

The inside was a piece of cake with a through-ratchet. In fact the whole removal was much easier than expected.

Turns out I had to cut the upper link stud off after all, it jammed up partway off and would not budge. Fortunately the lower one that I couldn't get the cutter to came off pretty easily. And I was able to reach the back brake bracket with the cutter too, I just had to cut in a different place than I had planned. The strut is out, and the job is halfway done. I hope that was the hard half. :wnk:

I don't think I will be riding my bike with 2 of these on my back (I should have dropped off the new parts at the shop on Friday...dohh!...but even one would have been a real bear), so I hope my coworker is up for a 2 way trip. I could really use her to start the inside nuts too, because that would be tricky by myself. She's pretty feisty so I think she'll be up for it.

Problem! :cnfsd::cnfsd: (maybe)

When I went to prop the knuckle back up a bit so it would be in a better position when I reinstall, the wheel assembly would not go back into a vertical position no matter what I do. It will move, just not that far. It feels like the CV joint is interfering. I was very gentle in lowering it, so there's no way I could have damaged it, and AFAIK I have never had CV joint issues.

What else could it be? I've heard of people having trouble lining up struts with only one wheel off the ground, but that's usually when the sway bar links are connected, I think. I do only have one wheel off the ground. It doesn't matter whether he knuckle is up or down, the rotor won't tilt back up to vertical.

I'm hoping that maybe I just don't realize how far everything fell when I removed the top nuts in the cab. There was a significant clunk when I removed th last nut, but the strut was still bolted on. Maybe I will need to lower the van so I have enough lift on my 2nd jack to get it back up where it needs to be. That would be nice.

I think this happened somehow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKQ2OWh9kcE

Edit: Yep. Got it. Phew! That was scary. :dizzy:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

I hope that was the hard half. :wnk:
.

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It wasn't. I called my reliable coworker last night to arrange a pickup time and she announced that she had forgotten about another work obligation today. I also realized she was sauced. I decided to make alternate plans.

But there are no buses or taxis within strut-carrying distance, and I don't know anyone here, and high winds and dust made riding my bike unthinkable. I finally found a shuttle service that would take me to the shop and back for $25. I said to the tech, you probably know this but just to be safe I need to tell you that this mark (points-->) on the upper spring support needs to point out toward the knuckle brackets when its all assembled.

About 10 minutes after they took my strut in back I heard a loud baaammmmm, which I assume was some piece of coil-driven hardware flying against the ceiling or wall, but in hindsight might have been the tech throwing something in anger. After 30 minutes the guy emerged with my strut and a scowl. I foolishly asked him if he had fun. Wrong thing to say. He retorted that he HATES doing that job, and for the SAME PRICE he could have got me a brand new strut AND spring, fully assembled! He had to do it twice, because the first time the mark didn't line up.

I looked nervously at it, because it still wasn't lining up as perfectly as I wished, but he was so anxious to get that strut out of his life that he didn't charge me. Then the shuttle took me back and he didn't charge me either. How did they know its my birthday this week?

I had more troubles with the CV joint popping out so it was a chore to get the strut in, and it had now ramped up to a wild, frigid, full-fledged haboob with 60 mph winds. I had to hold the rotor up with one hand to keep the CV in place, and bring the strut into place with my other hand, then press my torso against the rotor while using both hands to wrestle the strut onto the knuckle, then one hand to fumble around getting the bolt in. But it seems to have ended well. The driver side sits noticeably higher now and driving around the block it no longer sounded like its going to fall apart. And it was all free! Now I can hear the sounds coming from the passenger side better too lol.
:dance2:

Meh, the results weren't as good as I hoped. I still have some clanking and I'm afraid its my driver side tie rod(s). Which sucks, because I have brand new tie rods waiting for me at home but home is 1500 miles away and I was planning to take a much lengthier and more circuitous route back. But it was obvious when I lifted the wheel and pulled it side to side. Very obvious. I may have to do yet another emergency driveway repair without my garage and all that it holds. I haven't checked the passenger side, but I already knew the right inner had slight play. Not sure how the drivers side got so bad so quick. Maybe the accident jarred it loose?

Just for yucks I took it to a chain tire shop today and had them look at it. One guy was clearly new, one guy was mesmerized by the van because he had never seen one before (he thought it was a Chrysler :no: ), and the 3rd guy was just too young to trust. They got some things right including the tie rods but recommended new struts (one is a week old :LOL2: ) and of course other stuff I don't need.

So I will be trying a mom and pop shop next week to get a more experienced assessment. If its the tie rod making the noise I don't think I can postpone it until I get home. Funny thing though, I have zero steering issues and you'd think a tie rod loose enough to clank and clunk would produce some steering issues.

FRONT END SCAMS EXPOSED!

Should be the title of this post. The problem is, who is the good guy and who is the scammer? And are they scammers or just ignoramouses like me, who don't know their front end from rear?

Over the past 2 years I've been told:

chain store: loose outer tie rod
alignment shop: loose inner right tie rod and ball joint
last week, different chain shop (Big O): all tie rods need to go, need new struts (despite one being days old), new bushings, mounts, brakes etc
me: I'm unqualified to judge, but to me it seemed like both sides were noticeably loose when I jacked each side up and woggled it from 9 to 3 o'clock.


So I asked for opinions on Farcebook for the best alignment shop in this town I'm stuck in for another month or more, and it was almost unanimous. Go to the small one man shop that's named after the man, he has been around forever and does great work. 5 star reviews on Google. I arrived and the grumpy old man met me at the door, and took my van right onto his alignment rack.

He jacked it up a bit and pried around here and there. and Said my struts were bad but my tie rods and ball joints are tight. I said which strut? He said both. I said the left one is brand new, he said he thought he heard it hissing. He said my clunking noise is coming from my brand new cheap Napa sway bar link. Said its totally safe to drive, which has been my main concern.

Obviously there are so many contradictions in this brief history of my front end, that its hard to know what to believe. I don't trust myself much more than the kids at Big O. Until proven otherwise I'm going to give this old guy the benefit of the doubt in making an honest mistake about the strut, and will replace the brand new link. I still feel nothing abnormal at all in my steering so I'm choosing to believe I don't have any pressing tie rod or ball joint issues and can get home safely via a long detour route.


(PS-is it possible the shop that put my coil spring on the new strut damaged the strut? I refuse to even think that horrible thought)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

...the grumpy old man... jacked it up a bit and pried around here and there. and Said ... my tie rods and ball joints are tight.

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That's good - I'd be real concerned with ball joints going. You can wiggle at 12-and-6 or - as he probably did - jam a crowbar between the upper part of the ball joint and the knuckle to see if the knuckle moves away from the ball joint, in which case it's fixin' to separate sooner than later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Previologist

[...and said] my struts were bad [because] he said he thought he heard it hissing

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That's a puzzler. The Google has many instances of folks saying they do sometimes hear a "bicycle pump" - type hissing noise from struts. I would say if you feel the van handles well, that's the most important.

Well, of course, maybe snakes too I suppose. Or a small opossum in the air intake. Or the hearing aid he got offa Temu has a low signal-to-noise ratio. Maybe an actual gremlin somewhere, given your history with this thing?

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Originally Posted by Previologist

(PS-is it possible the shop that put my coil spring on the new strut damaged the strut?

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Why not - weren't there some unexplained crashing and banging noises when it got installed? Or maybe there's a manufacturing defect or shipping damage.

As far as inexperience, incompetence and dollar-chasing in the car-servicing industry, I refer you to Obi-Wan's assessment of Mos Eisley. I mean, he coulda just as well been in front of a Midas shop.

...or a "Big O"? I assume that's a tire place? Not gonna do any searches using that unless I turn on SafeSearch.

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Originally Posted by man_btc

That's good - I'd be real concerned with ball joints going. You can wiggle at 12-and-6 or - as he probably did - jam a crowbar between the upper part of the ball joint and the knuckle to see if the knuckle moves away from the ball joint, in which case it's fixin' to separate sooner than later.

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But 2 places have said the same ball joint was loose, which worried me. I just don't know what to believe. I don't get any 12-6 wobble when I tested it, but I'm a nobody in these things. I think I can get it home safely and since I'll probably be changing my 4runner's lower ball joints this summer I might do the Previa's as well. I hate fixing things that aren't broken but what I hate even more is having them break when I'm 1000 miles from my garage. I might get one more opinion from another alignment shop before deciding how to proceed. But I will change that new link out for another new link, because I suspected it from the start. Hopefully that eliminated the klunk and my worry-o-meter can settle down.

I think the new strut is fine, I have no handling issues. But I do plan to change the other one when I get home

The sway bar links I have used are TRW brand and have held up for a number of years.