Printable View
..just started driving an '86 with electric windows,,and of course the passenger side has become non-responsive with the window open:dizzy:
...I've tried the 3 circuit breakers near the fuse box,,but they seem fine.......all fuses seem allright too.
.........the driver-side window works fine,,,,but not the passenger side.............................any clues?........thanx..............m
In an emergency, you can raise the window by pulling the passenger door switch & jumping 12vdc to the blue wire with red stripe and the blue wire with the white stripe. If nothing happens, reverse the polarity and try again. If the window doesn't budge (and it's not jammed), then it's got a bad motor or a bad connection between the motor and the passenger door switch.
When you're ready to troubleshoot, just remember that both windows run off the same relay, breaker & fuse (so if one window works it's not one of these components). In my experience, a bad switch is the most likely culprit. As you can see in the diagram below, each switch has 2 normally closed contacts when not being operated. If one of these contacts in either switch fails to complete the circuit the window will not operate (regardless of which switch you try). To check switches all you need is an ohm meter. Pull the passenger door switch, then without disturbing the switch position check for continuity between the spade that normally connects to the red wire with blue stripe & the spade associated with the blue wire with the red strip........there should be continuity. If that checks out okay then check for continuity between the spade associated with the green wire with the blue stripe & the blue wire with the white stripe. Again, there should be continuity, if not then the switch is bad.
If the passenger switch and the motor tested good, then it's likely the driver's door switch or perhaps a busted wire in one of the door jams. Tim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...dowcircuit.jpg
hmm,,,12v to the switchwires did -nothing-,
,,but the motor worked fine when I applied 12v directly to it,,so at least I got the window closed :shock:
....was a bit puzzled that a brand-new(:yes:)replacement passenger side switch (came with the van*) didn't work either,, ,,but from your information I guess that points to the driver-side switch being the issue.
...that's all the time/patience I had to investigate the situation for the time being,,,
....if the switch is 'bad' is there a way to service it,,,or do I join the switch goosechase?
*..the van was previously owned by a retired,obsessive-compulsive instructor of toyota mechanics
I've never tried to get a new switch, I just always got them out of my parts vans or at the salvage yard. Sometimes switches can be taken apart and contacts can be cleaned/bent to make them work, but IMO this is just a temporary fix. I haven't tried to do this with a van power window switch so I don't even know if it's possible. If one switch is good you could bypass the other and make it a "one switch window". You can also do this for troubleshooting. Just take the harness off the D/S switch and jump the red wire with blue stripe, the green wire with blue stripe, and the white wire with black stripe together. If the window now works off the P/S switch then your problem is a bad D/S switch.
....was thinking/wondering that.
......taking my time before mustering my electronic trouble-shooting brain:dizzy:
...usually avoid vans with electric windows altogether,or change-out the doors,
,,but this mint van was too sweet a deal----now I pay th'price :violn:
I was troubleshooting power windows today and found a flaw in the schematic posted above. I had given you advice based on that schematic and that's why your window wouldn't come up by jumping those wires. That schematic had the blue wire with the white stripe marked as solid blue (incorrect). To prevent any further confusion I went back and edited the schematic and my post to reflect the correct information. Sorry about the bad advice...... :dizzy:. Tim
...oh mannnn,,I'm pretty embarrased t'say that I wasn't yet familiar with the forward control button on the driver's side,,,and that it cut's out the power to the passenger window:dizzy::no::LOL2:
:rol: Yeah, they were thinking child safety even back then :wnk:. Of course these vans were some of the 1st vehicles to do that. I remember working at the dealer (when these vans were new) and having jobs come in........Complaint= "sliding door or rear door won't open from the inside" Repair= "disengaged child lock" :no: . Glad it was an easy fix :)>:. Tim
I have an 89 LE and the passenger window has always gone down with the window control on the passenger door, but sometimes has needed the driver door side window switch to go back up.
put it down today and nothing will make it go back up.
I can certainly get a meter ( don't have one) but does anyone know which wires in either the passenger door or the drivers side door I would have to bridge to get the window to go back up?
would love to just take the switch out and put a wire in to get the window up for a few days, until I can dive in and figure out the problem.Thanks!
Hi Chester,
Here's a thread that has the information you seek: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...WS-information
Totally stupid question. How do I get 12 volt dc power to those 2 leads to get my passenger window up?Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
i tried to take apart the driver side switch to clean the contacts and now I am in the market for another drivers side switch. I could not actually get it apart, but at least one of the contact pieces fell out. So feels like it's toast.
i am thinking of driving 110 miles to pick up a couple of doors with manual windows. Since I killed my switch on the drivers door and I think I have a bad switch on the passenger door, I am thinking I know how to replace the doors and I will never have to worry about power windows again.....:wall:
Yes, power windows suck. Both of my daily driver's have crank windows. Didn't think much of it until I had a van with power window problems & now I value the "upgrade" of manual windows. I went through the same experience with my driver's window switch assy. The problem is the push button for the "lock-out" feature doesn't come apart (must be glued or something). You pretty much have to break the thing to get it apart.
I have a lawn mower battery I use with test leads for stuff like this, but you could also rig up some wires from the van's battery. If you go direct to the motor leads, just momentarily connect power. If the window doesn't move, reverse polarity and it should go the other way. If it doesn't move either direction when power is applied directly to the motor leads, then you have a failed motor. Tim
My inclination is to stuff a paper clip in between the two wires in the female connector and run a long wire from the plus side of my battery ( all I have is household wire from electrical sockets). This may be horrifying but I don't really do electric.....
My set up would have no way to "reverse polarity" so I think I may not be grasping the fine points of "applying 12 volt dc" to the leads in question.
At this point the passenger window doesn't work, so I am also willing to cut off the female connector on the passenger side window switch in order to get the window back up. Van looks "great" with a trash bag covering the rolled down passenger window in my driveway.
Plus , like I said, drivers side switch is toast (rattles inside) after my ineffectual ministrations. Can I still get passenger window up with toasted switch on driver' side?
Just use 12V on the leads called out on the other thread. These are the leads to the motor. Reversing polarity simply means switching the position of the wires from your power source. If you don't trust the colors as called out in that other thread pull the entire door panel, cut the wires coming from the motor & put 12V directly to these. If the window fails to travel the direction you want, then reverse the positive & negative wires from the battery and try again. If nothing happens either way then the motor is shot. tim
SUCCESS! Got the window up by running 2 wires from the battery ( one from the ground and one from the hot) to the connector at the passenger door switch --blue wire with red stripe and blue wire with white stripe.
Good to know my passenger window motor is good, and since the window is up, I am less worried about having a moldy Pacific NW Van.
Not being electrically inclined I previously did not run a wire from the ground, just one wire from the hot. Surprised I did not blow the motor
Any idea if the switches are available new?
Or if any switches from a 4 runner , corolla or similar vintage may work?
Thanks for your quick reply
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...pse442f3cb.jpg
I fixed your picture. Glad you got it figured out. Sorry you had to take the door panel off. I checked into possible substitutions about 2 years ago & found the van window switches to be unique to the van. Perhaps something could be hacked into the arm rest, but don't think you'll find an exact fit. At that time I was told new parts were NLA, but don't take my word for it. I've been able to get several things that I was previously told were NLA, but that happens less & less these days. Tim
I've had problems with the power windows on my older Toyota's- 91' Landcruiser and 85' Celica GTS, unfortunately I never had them fixed and just rolled with it. But what I did notice is that even on those vehicles when I would open the window on a rainy day the water would always fall right into the switches... I just came to the conclusion that that was the cause of the switch to fail. But I really don't know if that's a valid cause.
My Townace had power windows and I just keep a small rag over the switches on rainy days just in case my assumption is right.... Call me over cautious!!
Can't find switches so I am looking at replacing my doors with doors that have manual windows. Some of the doors I am looking at don't have mirrors still on them. Has anyone replaced the mirrors? Moved them from one van to another? How hard is it? Can I wire my electric mirrors into manual doors if I move the wiring harness?
thanks for any replies.
All you need are the window mechanisms and the interior door panels. If you can find some nice doors for cheap in the right color, then maybe. Just seems like swapping entire doors would be overkill (unless your's are smashed up or something). Swapping mirrors isn't hard. Tim
Digging around on ebay I found a new window switch from china for $8.99 that says it fits a 1987 Cressida passenger door. It looks identical to the switch I pulled out of my passenger side, except it appears the body housing is slightly longer so it may not fit in the case but it looks like it will plug in. Any idea if this would work?
As to replacing the doors, I don't care if they are the right color, I just want to roll up and down my windows without jumping a switch from the battery. As you remember my van was "totaled" in an accident last year- the rear bumper is cocked at an angle. Use is more important than looks at this point.
It looks like the window switch for the passenger side is available 84810-32050 replaced by 84810-30130 for $18 on ebay not OEM and $71.93 at Toyota Parts Zone
Got switches off the 88 van in Tacoma pick n pull. Driver side switch was out of the door, but it looked recent because it was sitting on the floor of the passenger front floor. Plugged them in to my van and NOTHING! :wall:
I know my window motors work because I can jump power from the battery to the proper wires and the windows go up or down.
Couple of questions. Will the window switch on the passenger side WORK if the drivers side switch it bad? Or does the passenger switch depend on some sort of circuit connection from the drivers switch ,,,and if it does,does anyone know what wires I need to bridge on the drivers side connection to make the passenger switch work?
anyone know where I can get a drivers master switch that works?
Anyone know where I can get manual window regulators and door trim so I can switch out my electric ones?
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...dowcircuit.jpg
If you reference the above diagram you can see the PS side switch gets it's ground from the DS switch. If the contacts are messed up on the DS switch (for the PS window) and/or the child lock-out switch is damaged, then the PS window will not work. Same goes for the wires that travel from one door to the other. Usual trouble spots are where they flex in the hinge areas. Over the course of 25 years these wires fatigue and break inside the insulation. If the switches are good, then the next most likely fault is the red/blue & green/blue wires where they bend in the driver's door hinge area. If it's a wire creating the fault it could be either door, but since driver's doors usually get used over twice as much as passenger doors, this is where I would check 1st. One way to test for this is to pull both switches to expose the wires, then while observing color coding, jump a new temporary wire from one switch to the other. Example: If you find jumping the green/blue from one switch to the other solves the problem, then that's the wire run & all it's connections you want to focus on. Tim
Chester, I just found this new thread you started. Since it's directly related to this one I deleted it & I'm quoting your post here. In order to help you solve your issue it's important to have all the information. In my previous post I was under the impression that everything worked except the PS window (evidently the problem has gotten worse :doh:). Since nothing works now, this is an important clue, but probably just an additional issue to the original problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chester
The common link for both power windows & sunroof is the "power main relay" & the "20A pwr circuit breaker" (top left of the above schematic). The relay is probably good, but I suspect you tripped the breaker. The breaker is located behind the glove box. It's not labeled in the picture below, but it's the one directly above the one that says "rear blower reset button". Yours may or may not have a yellow face, but it will have a little hole in it for resetting if tripped. Just take a paperclip or something small enough to enter that hole & push it in. If you hear a metallic click, it was tripped and you just reset it.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...v/IMG_5831.jpg
Here's a figure from the service manual that also shows the position of this breaker and position of the "power main relay". Tim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...ps164f5bbe.jpg
Reset works for sunroof motor.
Plugged " new to me" window switches in and it worked just long enough to bring the drivers window part way down, then nothing. I know why that van was in the pick n pull! The electric window switches didn't work!
i think these van should come with a paper clip.
I bought a plug into the cigarette lighter gizmo that had a switch and a red and black wires- designed to power auxilliaries. I was thinking that I could just plug it into the correct places on the driver or passenger door connectors- temporary fix- apply power window comes down, unhook, apply power window goes up, unhook - easier than jumping the switches from the battery, I could do it without leaving the front of the van) until I could find a master switch drivers door switch. When I use it, it will bring windows down but not up, But jumping off the battery will bring windows up. So not the best temporary fix. I guess windows up takes more power. I bought the passenger switch mentioned above off ebay, I have a spare passenger switch, I am sure as I can be without a voltmeter that it is my driver door master switch that is bad. What wire should I jump on the driver door connector to make my passenger switch work ( complete the ground)? I really would like to have one front window that works as it is finally summer here in the pacific NW and hot for us. Did I mention my A/C doesn't work?
On your driver's door master switch (for the PS window) white/black wire supplies ground to the switch. When the switch is not being messed with, it allows ground to pass through the terminals with the red/blue wire & the the green/blue wire. If it's the driver's door master switch that's preventing the PS window from working, you can bypass the switch by simply applying ground to the red/blue & red/green wires there..........then the PS door switch should be able to raise & lower the window.
Since you've already tried more than one switch, I'm thinking it's more likely a wire or wires in a door jam area that's messed up. Tim
Despite my many skills, I am an electrical idiot. My original switch broke and I have tried an additional switch that had been pulled out of the door that I got from a junk yard. I am thinking it was already broken, which is why it was not actually attached to the van.
So I am not sure I think it is a wire hiding deep, I think I have had 2 bad switches, which is what happened to me when I replaced the speedometer cable, the first one I pulled was bad, the second was fine.
Being an electrical idiot, if I run a wire from white/black connector to red/blue connector and from white/black to green/blue connector on the driver side master switch female connector would that complete the ground so my passenger switch will work? I have a couple of paper clips. Or do I also need to connect green/blue to red/ blue on driver side master switch female connector?
Yes, assuming the white/black is actually supplying ground, this should work. If you're leaving the driver's door switch hooked up while this bypass is in place, be careful not to engage it as it will short out if you do. One other curious thing, I noticed this diagram (taken from the wire schematic section of the 87 Factory Service Manual) does not show the child lock feature (the button on the driver's door switch to prevent PS window operation). This being the case, I have no idea what wires to connect to bypass that switch. But try this 1st.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chester
An alternate & more direct way to bypass the DS master switch would be to put ground to the red/blue & green/blue wires on the PS switch. If you do that, you're bypassing both of these wires from both door jams. So even if one or both of these wires is broken it won't matter. If you have both of these wires grounded at the PS switch, you don't need them anymore, so you can cut them to prevent a short in case the driver's side switch is depressed. Tim
I couldn't take it anymore. Opening and closing the front windows by jumping off the battery was a PITA. I went to picknpull, bought a couple of manual window regulators, took a ton of photos of what they looked like installed and then proceeded to uninstall them. Learned a few things.
1. Go ahead and remove the lower service panel in the door. You will drop something down there.
2. Even though the shop manual from Toyota tells you to take the mirror off, don't. The window comes out without removing the mirror.
3. Mark the door from the photos you took. Electric window motors/ regulators attach in totally diffent places than manual window regulators.
Now I need to find some decent trim panels. Until then, a cut out piece of plywood will have to do.
it's nice having front windows that roll down!:dance2:
is there a way to do passenger window switch? i tried to bypassing the d/s switch and still nothing. thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by timsrv
Yes, just unplug the switch from the harness, then use a couple jumper wires with spades to interconnect the harness terminals for Blue/Red to Red/Blue, then use the 2nd jumper wire to interconnect the terminals Blue/White to Green/Blue. With these terminals connected, the switch on the driver's door should operate the P/S window. Tim
thanks tim!
i actually got it working before i saw your post. i ended up taking apart both d/s and p/s switches and cleaned them. a bit of sand paper, electrical cleaner, and bam!! passenger window works.
as an added bonus, by door locks work every single time now :dance1::dance2:
:grpwave::grpwave::grpwave::grpwave:
So just take switches out sand terminals and should fix the problem?
Are you using any dielectric grease? Would that even help?
Yea just use some fine grit fans paper. 400 grit should be fine.
Do do not use grease!!!!!
i tried to use grease the first time and the gunk turned into black stuff again within a week and caused the contact to fail again.
Right now now my windows and door locks still work. Just lightly sanded and no grease. Good luck!
Thank you for you help I got the windows to work perfectly but how do you take the in-dash door lock switch out to clean it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico
Main pretty new to these vans and I'm not sure chich switch you are talking about. My door locks are all on the door panel on the drivers side switches. Maybe there is a different setup?
Oh ok see on my 86 the door lock switch is located on the dash next to the door
I tried to get to it to clean it as well but couldn't find a way
hay tim where are the relays located in the 1989 le? i have similar problem. I played with it so much now that both sides don't go up or down on either switch. Started with driver side and i tried to jump the driver side window with the passenger window and I think i fried something. no power coming into the switch at all now.:dizzy: