ah, thanks for clarifying and the extra detail Tim!
Printable View
ah, thanks for clarifying and the extra detail Tim!
I was having an intermittent start issue and after reading the posts and going through the steps finally found success with a new ignition switch. Or so I thought. After a few months the problem came back. Went back through everything and out of curiosity installed a second ignition switch and the problem seemed solved again. Now I'm having the same problem again. Any clue as to what could be damaging the ignition switch?
Sir goofy,
I would suspect yours may be a situation of the sum of all things. As Tim discusses in post #45, the resistance in the circuit builds over time with age and even small amounts of corrosion. Eventually you aren't getting enough voltage to the starter to adequately energize the solenoid. By changing the ignition switch you may have reduced the resistance by just enough to fix it until the new part started to get a little wear. Also in post#45 Tim explains how to install a Bosch relay kit. These were originally designed for air-cooled VWs to alleviate voltage drop from age and the distance the current had to travel and work well for their intended purpose. I have personallly installed a few of these( including one on a Subaru) with good results and will putting one on one of my vans soon for the same symptoms described in this thread. Might be worth looking into.
Hey all!
I am the relatively new owner of a 1989 Toyota Van LE. I’ve been having intermittent starting issues with the “click.” After a couple tries, it normally starts, but I was left high and dry once a couple weeks ago, only getting it to start after hours of tinkering. The battery was old, so I replaced it, which I thought solved the problem but just recently started having the same issue again. The thing I haven’t seen mentioned here is that when I remove the positive battery terminal connector and re-mount it, the van always starts right up. There is some light dust on that terminal each time I remove it, so I think I will replace that connector today. Could remounting the connector be sparking a bad starter enough to ignition? I’m trying to figure out other causes of the issue in advance as the ol Van is my daily driver.
If corrosion is growing on the positive post in days/weeks as opposed to months/years then you likely have a failed battery post seal.
You may try to get warranty on the battery but will depend on supplier as that fault, especially on a new battery, is usually caused by improper tightening of the battery connector.
Usually happens when people get aggressive tightening the connection and it applies a side load to the terminal enough to cause the seal to breach.
Using a 4in long 10mm wrench and making it "tight" (without supporting the terminal with the other hand) is more than enough to break that seal
The fact that disturbing the battery positive connection solves the issue, would tend to indicate its that connection causing your (current) issue.
Does anyone have any tips for removing the actual starter? I read Tim's whole post on replacing the worn contact and got the part from Toyota - $16!. But now looking at the starter itself, (which looks to be nearly under the passenger seat), it seems really tough to take out.
I have no experience with starter issues, but your comment makes me wonder if you don't know how to remove the passenger side access panel? If not, search the forum - it's easy, and greatly improves engine bay access:dance2:
you can easily access it from underneath. I believe only two bolts keep it in place. Should only take a few minutes to drop! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gwalzer
Attachment 9083
Hello i have a 1987 toyota van 4wd. we havent really taken out for drives yet. but we start it up all the time. fixing things here and there but lately car took a little bit to start makes noise like it wants to start and eventually starts. but now it doesnt want to seem to start. makes the noise like it wants to start but just doesnt turn over. do you think it may be the starter? thanks for any info. i was trying to search starter in the forum im sure there is somewhere with diagrams and such but couldnt find it. thanks again
Have you checked basics like battery voltage?
yeah battery is brand new changed it like 3 months ago
But what is the actual voltage as measured at the battery? Also, it's important to clarify your terminology, i.e. "makes noise like it wants to start". When you turn the key does it only make a single click sound and repeatedly cycling the key produces the same single click with each cycle? Or, when turning the key does the starter spin and turnover/crank the engine but it doesn't actually fire/start?
anyone ever spec out Tim's mega ground wire on Page 3 of this thread?
He mentioned 2/0 gauge wire - but it would be great to get lengths, lug sizes, bolt sizes to replace rusted or missing ones + I think he did shrink wrap at ends etc.
OR
do I just grab the 2 circled items from RockAuto, which will be smaller gauge but save a bit of crimping etc.
I just started getting the click click issue, and my ground (below) certainly would fall in the suspect category so starting there. Looks like someone did a rebuild and bypassed the whole middle bolt to body.
Without already having the proper tools to crimp with, sourcing pre-made cables makes sense.
Most auto parts stores carry pre-made lengths that can be utilized, while they might not be the perfect length, they will ge the job done.
No doubt those RA cables would work fine
Pre-made cables will come in standard lengths (12,18,24"....)
Custom made cables will get you a cleaner install and allow you to spec whatever wire size you want, there's likely an electrical shop near you that would make them up for a small fee. You will need to supply them with lengths, eyelet sizes etc
Something to consider.
I have seen cars that had ground wires rust off like yours, more often than not they would come in with the accelerator cable smoking/melted because it was acting as the ground.
Its worth taking a look at all things that may have been acting as a ground (kickdown, accelerator....) just to make sure nothing else is compromised.
Either way you will need to take some measurements to get the right sized cables as you will need battery to frame and frame to engine.
I always add a 2nd ground off the other side (chassis to drivetrain), likely not required but I like a little redundancy, sometimes.
Given that the positive wire is the same age, might be worth inspecting it while you're in this deep.
I had the speedometer cable and instrument cluster act as the battery ground on an '85 Mercedes diesel once. It wasn't pretty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Burntboot
Click no Start
I was heading out to work and this happened to the TownAce, the issue has gotten worse over time so here’s a couple short videos for reference-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U22T6g8keho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8vJU69BM1w
Time for a new relay and wiring “I ain’t got time for clicks”
https://i.imgur.com/eLijjx7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YeZZZXl.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=er-bLwQ7EvM
Just for clarification I dropped off the van and had my MasterTech to complete the work.
JDM
I just finished repairing the Click-No-Start issue that suddenly appeared on my Van. This thread was immensely helpful in me diagnosing the problem. I thank you all everyone who has contributed to this thread. It turned out to be the starter cable was corroded. There was a portion of the wire insulation that rubbed off and corroded the wire. It was a portion of the wire that ran up and over the transmission so i wasnt able to see it until i removed it. I havent read every single post on this thread so this might have already been said, make sure to check for continuity or voltage at the starter cable without turning the key. I stupidly only checked for voltage while someone was turning the key and falsely thought the starter was getting power. It appears that voltage will pass through the switch wire and solenoid into the starter cable and make it seem like it has power. Since i thought it had power i went on to diagnose the ignition switch and clutch pedal switch which turned out to be a waste of time. Now that its fixed i plan to replace all the grounds and also the alternator cable since i noticed some frayed insulation on the grounds.
Same, this has been a most helfpful thread. Many thanks to all who have contributed.
What fixed this for me in the end was ridiculously simple- I cleaned the connections and reconnected the ignition switch. Haven't had click no start since.:dance2:
hello I've been reading through these and your knowledge is amazing. Unfortunately I can't find anything that seems to relate to my ignition problem.. so apologies but I'll ask here before I guess opening a new thread.
I have a 1994 toyota estima lucida, it's basically a previa but a bit thinner and mine is a diesel. I got sent here from another toyota site where nobody could figure out my issue.
Somebody tried to steal the car, broke the steering lock frame and snapped the ignition switch from the back of the barrel, and then cut all the wires to try and hot wire it, they failed it seems since the car is still there, but made a big mess and in frustration snapped off the indicator lever and wiper lever and then the wipers off the front when they left.
I have got a replacement ignition switch which was taken from another scrapped car that still started, and wired it in correctly. I glued the pin on the back of the key barrel back on which now turns the ignition switch with the key. I have checked all fuses in fuse box and engine bay.
On turning the key nothing happens at all, a vague quite click seems to happen within the dash somewhere but that's it. When I have the wires loose in hot-wire-mode I can light up the green P and I can fire the starter motor but haven't yet found a way to light up the ignition on phase with the other warning lights.
So far as I can tell everything is back where it was before the theft, just with extra superglue.
My one theory is that the ignition switch might have an extra ground connection through the pin at the back of the barrel which the glue has ungrounded.. but the pin hole on the ignition switch is very plastic so that seems unlikely.
Other idea is that somehow a wire was pulled so hard in the theft attempt it has come off at the other end somewhere but looking closely and pulling a bit everything seems solid.
And yet.. something somewhere seems to be broken.
Any guesses what it could be! I've been trying to fix it for two weeks and missed my family christmas in the process as couldn't travel, completely stuck and local mechanics do not want to help.
Any advice much appreciated.!
Hi and welcome to the forum! I'm sorry to say I've had vehicles I cared about stolen and vandalized too, so I know the mental aspect of what you must be feeling. There are few things I hate more than thieves and vandals. I'm glad to hear he wasn't successful in getting it started. Hopefully he gets caught soon.....even better if it's by somebody that hurts him bad.
As for advice, the 1st thing I should say is I can only offer general advice as your van is quite different than anything sold here in the American market. Toyota never sold diesel Previa's here, and I've never seen one, so I'm not sure where the similarities end or begin. That being said it stands to reason that the problem must be something he did. Since he was so destructive, it will be hard to rule anything out.
You didn't say if it was an automatic or a manual transmission. If it's an automatic, my 1st thought would be to check the neutral safety switch and/or the linkage that attaches the shifter to the transmission. If he bent that linkage the safety switch may not be in the correct position (to allow the starter to run). If it's a manual transmission, then you should check the clutch safety switch and the wires to and from it. Other than that there's not much I can offer, other than suggesting you get a Factory service manual for your specific vehicle so you can use the electrical diagrams to help you troubleshoot the circuit. Good luck! Tim
Check the fuses. If someone was trying to touch random wires together, some of them might be blown.
thanks guys. Just got it working by sheer luck I think, refitted ignition switch and tried hot wiring it with the ignition switch fitted, turns out of I join a white wire and a wire one with a red stripe together, then everything behaves normally and I can even use the key. Maybe those wires were joined before the theives ripped it all up so I didn't know to fix that, or maybe I just magically worked around another problem. I didn't try driving it as I think the theives live locally so need to set up some security features. The central locking is flicking on and off, I guess that could be a wire in the passenger door earthing.
Anyway been great to discover this site. Ps yes it's an diesel automatic 2.2 turbo. The estimas and previas are often identical on the wider body ones and people swap bits and work manuals.
I’m looking for the second bolt to remove the starter. The first was a 14mm that attached through the transmission housing. I can’t for the life of me find that second bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdelgado