ELECTRIC (power) WINDOWS information....

from the lowest of lows to the highest of highs... :lol: this thread was awesome. reset breaker, plugged in pick n pull master switch DS window goes down for the first time in years ( i just bought it) and PS works again. The master window control on the DS won't roll control the PS. the PS wires from the master have constant power when i push either up or down, both red and green show hot, rather than alternating power with either up or down. Any ideas what this may be? At this point I am just happy they both go up and down but i would like to get it to work properly..?

i know this is an old thread but i went through the same issues. instead of the car battery, using your portable drill battery works very well. any size drill. i also decided to go manual and found a great donor with super clean panels too. hesitated for 7 days, went back to the pick n pull in Sacramento and the whole dang van was gone....

The "Power Main Relay" is the one used for the power window circuit. I marked it below with the red arrow. It resides in the lower center position:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...ImainRelay.jpg

Not likely the relay is bad, much more likely you tripped the breaker. The power window breaker is above & to the right of the fuse box in the top position. There is a hole in it's face that is used to reset when tripped. Remove the glove box so you can view it, then take a paperclip and bend part of it to stick out straight, then poke it in the hole and push.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23...psafimgt6f.jpg

Tim is it possible to make 1 good master switch out of 2 partially working switches? My DS door was not working and I bought a pick n pull master switch. Reset breaker and now DS works but PS does not on either switch. When I put the old one back on the PS works and the DS does not. ...

Switches have limited life spans. Sometimes you can get lucky and fix them, but taking these apart is a hassle, and usually not productive. The P/S window lock-out button on the master switch usually breaks when taking the master apart. Gotta try though, as there's not too many options out there. Whenever you see these in salvage yards, snatch them up........Or better yet, snatch up the crank window parts, interior door panels and convert. Electric windows are nice when they work, but totally suck when they stop working........and suck even worse when you can't find parts. Tim

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Switches have limited life spans. Sometimes you can get lucky and fix them, but taking these apart is a hassle, and usually not productive. The P/S window lock-out button on the master switch usually breaks when taking the master apart. Gotta try though, as there's not too many options out there. Whenever you see these in salvage yards, snatch them up........Or better yet, snatch up the crank window parts, interior door panels and convert. Electric windows are nice when they work, but totally suck when they stop working........and suck even worse when you can't find parts. Tim

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Found a great condition salvage donor van for manual windows with panels nicer than mine. Hesitated a few days, went back and the entire van was gone.:wall:

When that crusher gets hungry they gotta feed it. I've had this happen too. Sometimes they'll leave stuff in the yard for 6 months or more, other times it will only be there a few weeks. My local yard got a pristine 5 speed 4wd once. When I found it I couldn't believe it was there. I tried to buy the entire van but they refused to even consider selling. I came back a week or so later with time and tools to pull the transmission and strip it down. Van was gone. When I asked about it they said due to all the rain nobody had been buying parts, so they put their crushing/scrap metal salvage operation into high gear. I would have given at least double what they made in scrap metal value. What a waste. Tim

I see the mounts for the electric motor are different than manual, but is the window glass mounts the same for both?

I'll answer my question-they are the same.
My van had been changed to manual windows before I bought it- I was told it kept blowing a fuse so his(PO) mechanic changed it out to manual cranks. I never liked the look of these nor the panels I pulled from a junkyard van so I decided to fix it on a really hot August weekend.
I did some trouble shooting with the help of this and the other thread(thanks all) and determined it was the drivers door switches. The difficult part of troubleshooting these locks is mine was broken on the drivers side window lockout switch so neither side can open the passengers window. To further confuse, the passenger switch must be connected to even use the drivers side switch! That threw me for a few.
What I did was close the circuit at the switch by soldering across the terminals-However I cannot lockout the passenger from using their window switch:argue:. In the future I will solder in a switch there.
Also all of the contacts had to be cleaned with sandpaper(or emery board)-which worked great. You may be able to get some new ones somewhere?
I think my picture should explain it with the big goop of solder across the terminals.
This gave me electric door locks again:dance2:Attachment 4351

Hi there, This seemed like the best thread to jump in on. I have a DS power window issue. the PS works, door locks work, lock out works, DS seems out and was taped over but the PO with electrical tape. I will be diving into this soon as it is annoying not to have the window working. Would it be possible, assuming the motor is working, to control both DS and PS using the good PS switch?

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Originally Posted by grantbgarner

Hi there, This seemed like the best thread to jump in on. I have a DS power window issue. the PS works, door locks work, lock out works, DS seems out and was taped over but the PO with electrical tape. I will be diving into this soon as it is annoying not to have the window working. Would it be possible, assuming the motor is working, to control both DS and PS using the good PS switch?

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I went through the exact issue you described. After several non working controls from salvage and numerous headaches i just switched to manual cranks. Lots of hassle trying to get the pw to work for me. Maybe you have better luck.

Tim your the man!
I jumped the wires and finally the windows work. This forum is awsome!! :dance2:

:dance1::thmbup:

I put a new window motor in on the drivers side, and it works, but when the window gets to the top, it makes a loud clunk and same when it starts to move down. I can't really see anything in there, but it dosen't seem to be in there right, by the sound of it. I can also feel the a shock through the door when it makes this noise. Any ideas?

not sure if it's the same circumstances but the van i got a few months ago had the driver side window coming off it's track. i opened up the door panel and the adhesive had dried up and gotten old so the glass was flopping around a bit. put on new adhesive and it's working well now.

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Yes, power windows suck. Both of my daily driver's have crank windows. Didn't think much of it until I had a van with power window problems & now I value the "upgrade" of manual windows. I went through the same experience with my driver's window switch assy. The problem is the push button for the "lock-out" feature doesn't come apart (must be glued or something). You pretty much have to break the thing to get it apart.

I have a lawn mower battery I use with test leads for stuff like this, but you could also rig up some wires from the van's battery. If you go direct to the motor leads, just momentarily connect power. If the window doesn't move, reverse polarity and it should go the other way. If it doesn't move either direction when power is applied directly to the motor leads, then you have a failed motor. Tim

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Hey Tim!
Im curious if there is a way to replace to electric windows with cranks without having to replace the entire door. :wave2:
My drivers side window does not go down at all, and my passenger side, controlled by the driver, does function properly but if on the passenger side, can only roll down, not up. I would love to upgrade to manual windows :)

Here's a quote from post #11 (1st page this thread):

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Originally Posted by timsrv

All you need are the window mechanisms and the interior door panels. If you can find some nice doors for cheap in the right color, then maybe. Just seems like swapping entire doors would be overkill (unless yours are smashed up or something). Swapping mirrors isn't hard. Tim

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Parts can be swapped from one door to another (no need to swap entire doors).

After reviewing several of the power window threads I decided this one to be the best to post to. The switches for the LE Power Windows are available! I needed some for my 4x4 project van and nagging thought of always seeing Haynes or CHilton manuals listing "Toyota Van and Cressida", I decided to chase the window switch as a Cressida part and there they are supplied by multiple vendors on ebay. I chose Switch Doctor in Decatur GA ordering their Item No. 370542649817 for $18.00 Each. The switch arrived today, plugged it in to the Passenger Door plug and now I have the PS side working and (probably due to the lack of throughput in the old switch) the PS window now works from the drivers door switch panel as well. Switch looks like it will fit if
you can carefully remove the exterior cover to the DS switch panel to make replacement on the DS.:dance2:

Cheers, SoORYotas

any tips on this? my window is down and i can feel the motor kinda trying to move but it doesn't. I ruled out the switch and I ordered a new motor but after taking out the panel it almost looks impossible to replace.

The replacement will have to done with the window regulator assembly removed from the door. If your panel is off and the window will move down you will see two holes in the door that will line up with two bolts that hold the Window assembly to the regulator. Put something in the bottom of the door to cushion the glass if it falls when you remove the bolts. Window and metal frame will lift up out and away (outside) from the door frame at an angle. Set the glass aside and tackle the regulator which is three or four bolts at the front center of the door. Take regulator assembly out the the larger opening at the back of the door. Check this thread and others as some of the aftermarket motors require some wiring or determining which wire drives up and which down. Good Luck . . . it really is not to difficult :yes:

SoORYotas