AT slipping after 6 months sitting

Hey gang, just an update....with the kick down cable disconnected, the trans up shifts too quickly. Way earlier than it should if you're trying to accelerate. It also doesn't downshift when trying to accelerate. I realized it wouldn't downshift any longer, but the fact that it would up shift too quickly didn't occur to me. The trans will down shift back to first gear if you come to a stop. I've just been driving it like a manual trans, shifting it myself, and been getting by just fine. This will get me by until I have time to replace the cable. Hope this helps someone in the future.....

Ive avoided Lucas, anyone use it?

I've had a hard shift issue, I think its in the valve body.

Used Castrol high mileage trans fluid (only 95000 km) as it mentions the same properties as Lucas.
2 spill and fills and now it seems to have issues downshifting from3-2,so slowing down and then accelerating, doesn't happen all the time. :pissed:
Will do another refill at 100,000 km


I don't want to have to pay someone to service it, if its the valve body solenoids.

How much didn't parts cost?

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Originally Posted by timsrv

Changing that cable sucks. I changed it on an automatic 4wd once. The bad part about the job is access to the transmission end. I ended up taking off the valve body as I couldn't see any other way. I don't remember all the details, but there are a lot of screws holding things together and not all of them are the same length. You CAN'T mix up the different lengths or there will be problems. Also, I think I had to mess with servos popping out and springs that had to be aligned when putting back together. The job was a success but it took way longer than I expected and there were frustrating moments. Of course I was working under the van and getting dripped on, so that didn't help. If you have mechanical experience and feel comfortable doing jobs like head gaskets etc, then it's probably within your skill set. If you have any reservations, then I'd probably just pay a tranny shop to do it.

If you are able to move the cable at all, then it might be worth trying to save by lubricating. Most penetrating oils will work, but I'd recommend getting something specific for cables at a motorcycle shop (my favorite is Tri-Flow with Teflon). Motorcycle places also sell "cable lubrication devices" but I've found plastic wrap to work just as well. If you go the plastic wrap method put the plastic tube on the can of Tri-Flow, then lay it parallel to the cable butted up against the cable jacket. Wrap it tightly with plastic wrap (to seal the tube against the jacket and cable) and spray the lube into the cable jacket. I would spray for a solid 5 seconds, then remove the plastic wrap and try to exercise the cable. It may or may not work, but considering the PITA of replacement it's definitely worth a shot. Please report back with how things go. Tim

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Hi Tim, i just changed the throtle cable on my 88 4wd ATM and for now it's not a success :-( Now i can't shift on 1st speed and when i go from R to P, it make sound like "grrrrrrr" Where i went wrong? :wall: (van is lifted). The only thing i can see is when the manual shop say "Align manual valve lever with manual valve and loosely install several bolts in valve body"... (see picture) The drawing is poor and i did not understand what they means.

Also, on second picture, a very thinny gasket broke between the piston and the spring... Is it replaceable? or maybe just applying some gasket stuff to seal this area? What is the importance of this really thinny gasket?

thanks a lot

Sorry to hear of your issues. FWI, I am not a transmission guy and when I dare get into one I feel as if I'm over my head. So far I've always managed to "muddle" my way through the jobs I've attempted, but as a general rule I try to stay away from them :dizzy:. That being said, it's funny because I just removed my tail shaft housing last weekend and replaced the yoke bushing and the rear seals (lots of fun).

As for your questions, I think that gasket is there to seal pressure into your servo areas. It's important to maintain pressure inside the servos or you may have trouble shifting. If I had one tear, personally would just bite the bullet and replace that entire gasket.......which of course means digging deeper (sorry). You may get lucky with repairing, but IMO not something I'd mess with.

Regarding the grinding, if the van is up on blocks and the drive shaft is allowed to spin, it will grind when going from Reverse to Park. That's the sound of the parking pawl trying to engage (which can't happen if the output shaft is spinning). Be sure to engage the parking brake or hold the brake pedal firmly before going to park. If it still does this with the output shaft not moving, then there's something else going on. Tim

ok... i found the problem and it was what i had expected. The part of reassembling i did not understand, well... i paid for that!

had to do the job a second time, except for changing kickdown cable (already done first attempt). On the 2 pictures you see the difference, and why i was unable to shift to 1st speed. With 1st speed problem, the manual valve was free (second picture). On the first picture, the piston valve move on the right place when you play with your shifter.

Now i understand the drawing in the book, but until you don't see with your own eyes, it's not clear!

For the gasket, i take a guess... i don't want to play inside body valve. I bought "right stuff" from permaflex, hoping it will help. Toyota dealer told me they use this stuff for making gaskets.

Okay, I can see how that could cause a problem :doh:. Glad you figured it out. Good luck with the servo gasket fix. Tim

Hey guys, no need to dismantle the valve body (with fear of losing springs, balls and bolts) to replace the kickdown cable in the tranny. I used an dentist 'poking' tool and a needle-nosed plier to both remove the old one and put in a new one. Ya gotta pull the cable up off of that grooved wheel so it's perpendicular to the wheel then you can slide the 'cylinder' left or right.

This is glorious news, as I need to replace my cable, long and sad story, but can you go into as much detail as possible on what you did to make it that easy? Maybe some pictures?

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Originally Posted by Dharam

Hey guys, no need to dismantle the valve body (with fear of losing springs, balls and bolts) to replace the kickdown cable in the tranny. I used an dentist 'poking' tool and a needle-nosed plier to both remove the old one and put in a new one. Ya gotta pull the cable up off of that grooved wheel so it's perpendicular to the wheel then you can slide the 'cylinder' left or right.

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I Was able to do it easily without removing valve body as well! Thanks Dharam! It’s was no problem!

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Originally Posted by Brett5cent

I Was able to do it easily without removing valve body as well! Thanks Dharam! It’s was no problem!

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Interesting.............sorry if my previous posts mislead anybody. But like I frequently say, I'm not a transmission guy :dizzy: :doh:. Sounds like I did it the hard way. Next time I'll look a little closer and hopefully be a little more creative. If you have any pics or any more information that could help the next guy please share. Thank you for confirming it can be done without removing the valve body. Tim

Continuing the saga. Has anyone found a replacement part? I’m in desperate need of an 87 auto 4x4 kick-down cable.

My trans was repaired with a new cable. The shop used a cable from Auto Zone. Pioneer Automatic Detent Cable CA-1990. Not a mechanic, so I don't have more info but the van is on the road again and shifting properly.