Handle for rear hatch

[YOTAMOG]

One frosty-frozen morning after raining the day before, the sliding and rear doors were completely stuck. Probably squeezed the weakened handle on the hatch too hard in my haste and the only way to open it was pull the interior panel off. Doing that, I recognized the need for a reinforced lever. Here's my solve:



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Photo 1: The handle bent back into it's relative 90 degree angle (guessing on the right angle).

Photo 2&3: I used an ordinary 16d duplex nail (fits perfectly in the channel of the lever) flattened the point (locks it into the lower lip of the actual handle), cut the head off and bent to the same rough shape. This takes some noodling, but it's just metal...

Photo 4: A little bit of space seems like it made the handle operate 100% of it's range...

Photos 5&6: Wrapped it with wire, vinyl taped it and should be good for a while.

Epoxy maybe better than wire, whatever blows your hair back. Reinstall and enjoy!

[timsrv]

This is a slight variation on the old saying "with bailing wire and duct tape a person can fix anything". Thanks for sharing. Tim

[caerickson]

Has anyone tried to repair the broken handle? I haven't had my van long and am learning that one of the first things to go wrong with the Toyota van wagon is the handle and it's impossible to find replacement parts for it. So that's why I'm wondering if anyone has tips for fixing (rather than replacing) the interior of the handle. Please help.

[timsrv]

The problem with the rear hatch handle is a combination of several factors. The 1st problem is Toyota designed this handle to be barely strong enough to do it's job. This was okay when the van was new and things were clean, lubricated, and adjusted correctly. Over the years things tend to lose their lubrication and rust begins to take hold. This makes the mechanism harder to operate. Another factor is adjustment. Doors that are adjusted too tight will take a bit more force to release. When these factors come together the end result is a bent "tang" on the handle.

Another part of the problem is not knowing how to correctly open a rear hatch that has been neglected. I have operated marginal hatches for years without problems, but if a person without the "knack" tries to open it's all over. The "knack" to opening the hatch is using one hand to press "in" on the hatch the same time as you pull the handle with the other. This can be hard if your hands are full, but it's one way to avoid stressing/bending the handle. Another way to avoid damage (preferred) is to keep the mechanism lubricated & the door adjusted correctly. For lubrication just pull the interior panel and spray some WD-40 (or other similar lubricant) into the latch/lock mechanisms. The door can be adjusted by loosening the screws on the "loop" on the door frame. Once loose the loop can be moved. When the correct location is found tighten the screws and it will stay put. If the tang on the handle is bent, then bend it back and see if it's still strong enough to do it's job.

One problem that's becoming more common now is finding previously stressed/damaged handles. If the tang on the handle has been bent enough times it will become weak and may not be able to operate the door even after it's been lubricated and adjusted. In cases like this I usually find something to put into the tang and then weld it there permanently :weld:. Here are some pics I took the last time I did the job. The metal piece was part of an air saw guard that was broken (tool steel works great for this). I've also used other things like nails & steel rod with good results. Typically once you've done this you'll never need to give your door special attention again. Every one I've done this repair on has become easy to open.......even without the "knack" :thmbup:. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Body/IMG_1771.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Body/IMG_1772.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Body/IMG_1773.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Body/IMG_1775.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Body/IMG_1776.jpg

[caerickson]

Cool, thanks for the tip on reinforcing the 'tang' of the handle. The part that's broken on mine is the piece that pushes the tang down when you pull on the handle. It's just a little stub and I'm not sure what it looked like originally. Do you have a picture of that? The previous owner attached a coat hanger to the bottom latch part that allows me to open the hatch from the inside. I was planning to use some galvanized wire to connect the latch to the part that rotates up when the tang is pushed down. Does this make sense? Do you think this will work okay?

Thanks,

Chad

[timsrv]

Sounds like a trip to your local salvage yard(s) is in order. Denver is a good place to still find these (in the salvage yards). Just take the mechanism/handle out of a junk yard van then you'll know how it's supposed to look and how it should be installed. When you put the "new" parts in your van just make sure everything is well lubricated and working correctly. Most of the time just a little lube & TLC is all you need to make old crusty parts function like new (assuming nobody has "fixed" it before). Tim

[caerickson]

I appreciate your advice. But I'm afraid I'll need to jimmy-rig something because the Denver salvage yards don't have this van anymore and they tell me it's too old so they don't think it will ever be in.





Sounds like a trip to your local salvage yard(s) is in order. Denver is a good place to still find these (in the salvage yards). Just take the mechanism/handle out of a junk yard van then you'll know how it's supposed to look and how it should be installed. When you put the "new" parts in your van just make sure everything is well lubricated and working correctly. Most of the time just a little lube & TLC is all you need to make old crusty parts function like new (assuming nobody has "fixed" it before). Tim

[timsrv]

Use the "Search Inventory" feature on your local U-Pull-&-Pay (http://www.upullandpay.com/locations/denver/default.aspx) website. They don't currently have any vans in Denver or Aurora, but they do in Colorado springs (http://www.upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/search-inventory?make=Toyota). If that's too far then be patient and check every week or so. They will get them. Tim

[caerickson]

Awesome, thanks for the tip!

Chad


Use the "Search Inventory" feature on your local U-Pull-&-Pay (http://www.upullandpay.com/locations/denver/default.aspx) website. They don't currently have any vans in Denver or Aurora, but they do in Colorado springs (http://www.upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/search-inventory?make=Toyota). If that's too far then be patient and check every week or so. They will get them. Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

How do you pull the outer latch assembly out? Do you have to go in from the interior panel? I haven't even had time to tinker with mine to see. Thank you.

[timsrv]

Yes, just like all door latches, start off by pulling the interior door panel. Once off it becomes much more obvious how to remove. Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

Sounds good thanks Tim!!

[JDM VANMAN]

Found one from the same guy I got the antenna, he had already pulled it and said it worked so I took his word for it and took it cause it looked in good shape. But I'm sure doing the reinforcement welding on it will make it perfect. I'll take it to my Seattle tech at Hobbs and see if he can weld some steel to it.