Change your alternator ILLUSTRATED!

[llamavan]

See THIS Library Article (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?200-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!) for step-by-step instructions on how to change your van's alternator!

Gwen

[Vonerk]

i got that problem already, but it was too late when i knew it the alternator were full of white smoke, the mechanic changed the electrode, it was all burned, runs OK, but the christmas ligths has been appered, i know now why is that...,


i just have 1 week with a new stereo, i plug it right, the stereo turns off with the key switch and it sound great, but 5 days ago, my van kind act really strange:cry:, first, the USB doesnt played, then, the mp3 or cd player doesnt played too, the direcctional lights got really hard work to turn on, then the FM and AM radio stop working, at last the wonderwagon just died in a red light, she power on right away, then in the nigth i try to power on the van and it has low battery:doh:, the power steering gauge is not working when i bougth it til today have a screw in this spot blocking the oil exit, but obvious, it has a leak, all the way down there are oil and it was the reason of my Alternator desease, but my question is kind of dumb, the stereo thing and board problems are in fact becouse the christmas lights???

another Questions, only if you can tell me where or with who or if you know..., my speedometer doesnt work, nor the temperature meter, and the drivers buttons just works the window and doors locks button, the crusier doesnt work, nor the windshield washer fluid system, nor the back door windshield and i know now that the water overflow doesnt have the coolant gauge, it only works for contain water and nothing else(:no:)


i love my van but it needs some work minimal work but the very important is the battery problem, and the Temp meter... if you can help me i will thank you...
:lol:

best regards...:drunk:

[MonTex]

I would strongly suggest disconnecting your (new) alternator harness at the "+ box" connection prior to inserting the harness, with it's "plastic clip", into the back-shell of the alternator. I just went through this installation. This will make the harness installation much less frustrating, by taking the strain off of the harness while you are inserting the plastic "harness clip." Reconnect the far end of the harness to the "+ box" connection as the final step (before reconnecting your battery terminals at the battery).

[mons]

Hi there! Thanks for all the help so far- this post is great. I have a 1985 Van which I purchased about six months ago and have been consistently working on since then. I ordered a rebuilt Denso alternator and installed it yesterday. However, a couple strange things happened:

#1- I found out that the alternator I replaced had neither a strain relief mount or the plug that you mentioned. I found a wire that looks like what would plug into the alternator, but the wire is not long enough to ever have been connected there... meaning I have been driving without it connected for about 6,000 miles since I bought the van.
#2- After installing the alternator just like the old one was, the christmas light effect is still happening and the lights are still dim... pretty much exactly what was happening before.

Any ideas? Did I do something wrong or is there just something else that could be wrong with the same signs?

p.s. I looked around for the fusible links and can't find them! Any help on where they are?

[Danny]

Thanks Llamavan! This thread just saved my butt. Tis the season for Christmas Dash apparently..

[Jbbishop2]

Thanks for this great thread (and the link to the alternate (!) way to orient the alternator to get it out/in, which I needed). A rebuilt AC-Delco alternator is in and the Christmas lights are gone. I really appreciate this site and forum and community.

John B.

[WSG1970]

Just finished replacing alternator... 😬😬

Is there any chance I can see pics of the bracket the coolant overflow mounts on? I pulled until I thought I was about to break something and nothing slipped or wiggled. Needless to say it's quite aggravating without the additional space.

[timsrv]

It's the metal part touching the pulley side of the alternator in this picture:
https://s25.postimg.org/xtl5bcuqn/alternator_11_a.jpg (https://postimage.org)

The coolant bottle slides down over the edge of the metal bracket. Sometimes they're hard to remove, but they always come off if you put enough pressure in the correct spot. Tim

[WSG1970]

Thanks Tim! It'll probably come off now that the alternator has been done. 😬😬

[Flounder]

Thanks for the fine writeup, Llamavan! (I still have the bungee cords for alternator replacement.) Finally started my '87 4WD after >1 year in layup. ItM lives!! But she's giving the same dashboard lights as shown above, indicating that something's wrong in electricville. Just out of curiosity, I put my multimeter on the battery terminals before and after starting. Before: 13.8V; after: 14.7V. The alternator is apparently working normally; she must have another wiring problem. :rolleyes: :confused:

[timsrv]

14.7 is a little high. I suspect if you let it run a while, as your battery heats up it will likely go higher. Check the yellow fusible link (FL 0.5G) in the battery compartment. More information on that here: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?136-The-fusible-link-thread

If that one is "open" (not making an electrical connection) it will cause your alternator to go "full field" and your dash lights will likely illuminate. Tim

[originalkwyjibo]

I put my multimeter on the battery terminals before and after starting. Before: 13.8V; after: 14.7V. I'm taking this to mean before starting the engine and with the engine running. If I understood that correctly, then 13.8 is quite high for static battery voltage. If you had the van running right before the battery test then this may support Tim's theory of high alternator output as the battery voltage may not have come down to normal from a state of overcharge yet.

[Flounder]

While troubleshooting the starting problem I checked the FL 0.5G fusible link. It showed low resistance. Nonetheless, its physical condition is not good; plastic is starting to chip off its exterior. So I bought a covered fuseholder which will be installed later with a 15A fuse. All I could find wrong in the ignition system was slightly high resistance in the ignition switch and clutch switch. Repeated operation of both brought down the resistance to an acceptable level. Before starting the van the first time, battery terminal voltage was 13.2V. It was taken off an automatic charger <1 hour before. The battery used for testing is a Group 24, which I think is physically larger and higher capacity than what Toyota recommends for our vans. She was started, then shut down for only a couple of minutes before I put the Fluke on the terminals and measured 13.8V (slowly going down) before starting and 14.7V while running (just after starting). I have a small digital volt/amp/total power meter that is used in line with the amateur radio gear in one of my vans. Voltage regularly goes to 14.5 - 14.7V shortly after starting, depending on the condition of the battery, and then eventually comes down to 13.6 - 13.8V. I should check the system voltage on my other three vans just before and after starting. If the voltage/charging curve isn't similar, then I'll change the alternator. I do have a couple of rebuilt (by a local auto electric shop in Creswell, OR) alternators sitting around here somewhere...Thanks very much for everyone's advice.
The one thing I couldn't find in the '87 service manual body electrical diagrams is the clutch start relay. Anyone know where it is?

[timsrv]

It's back behind the AFM by the Check Engine Connector. If the 0.5G link is good, there could be a bad spot in the wire between the link and the "S" terminal of the regulator. the next most common spot for a bad wire is in the harness that connects to the alternator. Tim

[Flounder]

Thanks for the good information, Tim. Your sage advice and encyclopedic knowledge are always appreciated.

If you see my '86 cargo on I-5 headed north on Tuesday, please wave! B^)

Tim

[timsrv]

I saw 2 vans this week. Yesterday it was silver 84 or 85 with a bed platform in the back headed north on 205 leaving Vancouver. I looked over to give the "thumbs up" a couple times, but failed to catch the driver's attention.

Today it was a blue 86 - 89 van driving north through Portland on I-5 towards Vancouver. It had a yellow stripe about 2" wide pained horizontally under the rear hatch glass. I was driving my Ford truck though, so it was pointless to wave (driver would be like "WTF" : ). I'm up and down that corridor between Portland, OR and Long View, WA. in my brown 86 almost every day. I'll keep an eye out for you :yes:. Tim

[Flounder]

Tim, I saw your business van in Battle Ground years ago, but was on my way elsewhere and couldn't stop to say hi or leave a note.

Sure enough, the alternator output voltage profile on my '88 2WD cargo was about 1 VDC lower than that of the '86 cargo. The '86 is in my new workshop in WA now; my '88 and I are in Eugene, OR. I'll be up there at my property to do some regular maintenance and troubleshooting on both vans around Thursday, 5/5.

[AK4x41989]

llama, you are doing God's work. Keep it up, and thanks for the post!

[timsrv]

Note: Regarding 14mm alternator bracket bolt in picture #8: There is a small risk of creating a problem with water jacket gaskets by messing with this. I would recommend leaving that one alone as the alternator can be finagled out of there without moving that bracket. Tim

[whatvan]

Thanks for this thread. I used it the first time I changed my alternator and found it very useful. I'm changing out another as I had a major PS hose failure.

I ordered an AC Delco alternator off RockAuto.

I've spent the last couple hours trying to wrestle this new one into the lower mounting bracket. I've removed the fan shroud so I have better access. I remember on my first alternator job, getting it in was a struggle, but I had a partner with me at that time, and we figured it out. I can't remember exactly what we did to get it in there the first time and I'm growing increasingly frustrated working on my own.

Are there any tricks or adjustments that I may be overlooking? It seems like the new alternator is a fraction bigger than the bracket. I tried to see how easily the old one would go in and it seems to be the same scenario. This causes me to believe I have the right alternator, but am just missing a piece to the re-installment puzzle.

Thanks for any help

Dave

[timsrv]

Thanks for this thread. I used it the first time I changed my alternator and found it very useful. I'm changing out another as I had a major PS hose failure.

I ordered an AC Delco alternator off RockAuto.

I've spent the last couple hours trying to wrestle this new one into the lower mounting bracket. I've removed the fan shroud so I have better access. I remember on my first alternator job, getting it in was a struggle, but I had a partner with me at that time, and we figured it out. I can't remember exactly what we did to get it in there the first time and I'm growing increasingly frustrated working on my own.

Are there any tricks or adjustments that I may be overlooking? It seems like the new alternator is a fraction bigger than the bracket. I tried to see how easily the old one would go in and it seems to be the same scenario. This causes me to believe I have the right alternator, but am just missing a piece to the re-installment puzzle.

Thanks for any help

Dave


If it looks the same and it's a Denso, then it should fit. The factory alternator mount has a bushing in it that will slide to accommodate alternators that may be a bit smaller. I'm guessing your old alternator was smaller in this mount area and the bushing just needs to be knocked back to a position to accommodate your new alternator. Here's a picture, you can see the bushing in the front end of the mount. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Untitled-1.jpg

Note: There are only 2 bolts holding that mount to the block, so if you need to "adjust it" it's not that big of deal to remove, adjust, then put it back on. Tim

[AD2101]

I was writing my response at the same time as Tim, but I did want to say that sometimes, even with these bushings all the way cranked in, these alternators still may not fit.

This has been an issue a few of us here (myself included) have ran into with replacement alternators. It's discussed here (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?335-Alternator-woes&p=25266&viewfull=1#post25266), but basically if you've been wrestling with this for a couple of hours and it's not falling into the bracket, then it's not going to without a little help. The way I figure, there are 3 ways to get the replacement alternator in. Take a grinder to the new alternator, take a grinder to the metal bushing inside the bracket (I doubt this is even possible without removing said bushing), or simply remove said bushing and replace with a washer.

I personally opted for option 3 and removed the metal bushing inside the alternator bracket as that was the piece holding up the whole job. This was a pain as the bushing is pressed into the bracket. If I remember correctly, I had to use a c-clamp, and a series of sockets and washers to make it work, but it eventually came out. The idea is put a large socket (inner-diameter of the socket has to be bigger than the outer diameter of the bushing) on the "exit" side of the bushing (the side the bushing will be pushed out), and a small socket (smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing) on the "push" side of the bushing. Then you hook a c-clamp up to it and press it out. The end result will be an alternator that easily fits in the bracket. You'll want to put a washer on the side of the bracket where the bushing used to be (much easier than dealing with the bushing) to make sure that alternator goes back on tight.

With all that being said, it's way easier to just take a grinder to the new alternator and call it a day. I did it this way because knowing these vans, I'll have to do this job again sooner than I'd like and this will make future alternator jobs much easier.

EDIT: I didn't realize you could simply remove the bracket from the block, I was worried of borking something up so I did all the above with the bracket still in the van. I imagine removing this bushing is much easier with the whole bracket out of the van. Good luck! :dance2:

[whatvan]

I went with Tim's strategy of removing the lower mount and adjusting the bushing. After that everything went back together easy peasy. Or as easily as can be hoped for considering...

I know it's a rebuild, but I was a little disappointed in the general construction of the AC Delco alternator (no comment on performance). I had to drill out the hole in the alt. housing for the lower mounting bolt as the two halves (of the housing) didn't line up precisely enough for it to fit through. Always sketched altering parts I just purchased. Just some info for future alternator purchasers to consider.

Thanks for everyone's quick responses and these amazing "how to" threads. Just took her out for a quick test drive and she made it back. Now for some road trips until the next thing goes.

[timsrv]

I understand about money being short, but I've also learned you get what you pay for. I hope it lasts. For an extra ~$40 you could have had a genuine Denso :?: https://www.sparkplugs.com/SearchResults.aspx?kw=%23210-0272. At least it's in there & glad we could help. Tim

[spacecruisers]

Thanks for this thread. I used it the first time I changed my alternator and found it very useful. I'm changing out another as I had a major PS hose failure.

I ordered an AC Delco alternator off RockAuto.

I've spent the last couple hours trying to wrestle this new one into the lower mounting bracket. I've removed the fan shroud so I have better access. I remember on my first alternator job, getting it in was a struggle, but I had a partner with me at that time, and we figured it out. I can't remember exactly what we did to get it in there the first time and I'm growing increasingly frustrated working on my own.

Are there any tricks or adjustments that I may be overlooking? It seems like the new alternator is a fraction bigger than the bracket. I tried to see how easily the old one would go in and it seems to be the same scenario. This causes me to believe I have the right alternator, but am just missing a piece to the re-installment puzzle.

Thanks for any help

Dave


I ordered a Bosch alternator off RockAuto and it was just EVER so SLIGHTLY wider on the lower mounting bracket as well. I had to lift the van to get some elbow leverage and used a hammer and just smacked the hell out of it... I'm talking, no holds barred, hard as you can go hammering
:pissed::dedhrs::swear:

i finally got it lined up so the bolt could slide through. i think next time ill just take the angle grinder to it and shave it down a hair :thmbup:

[windsurfvan]

I have changed or pulled alternators on 2 wd vans many times and always from underneath . Trying to pull it from above on the 4wd. Oriented as the picture shows and got it stuck good. Went back and looked at the pics closer and realized a line going into the side of the power steering pump on my van is configured differently than in the pictures and blocks the exit hole unlike in the pics of this thread.

Going to try turning the baby around tonight as mentioned in the alernative method. Crossing my fingers.

[windsurfvan]

Because of the configuration of the power steering line blocking the exit hole on my 4wd i am not getting my alternator out without further removal of either the power steering line in the way or possibly removal of the pulley on the power steering pump. Going to try that next. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[AD2101]

Pictures would help better visualize what's different about your van but on 4x4 ones I have to pull the alternator from the top as well. Don't get me wrong, it's a real pain to get out, and at some point I always say to myself "there's no way this is going to come out," but it eventually does.

If the configuration of your van is different, then this guide won't be completely applicable to you and you'll have to make changes as necessary. Pulling the power steering pulley would likely be less messy if you have to start tearing out more parts.

[windsurfvan]

I will try to get a pic up but it differs mucho than Gwen's pic of the line going into the drivers side of the power steering pump. Mine takes a different route and crowds the exit room more. Thanks for the input , i will give it one more try before I pull the pulley.

[rowemjr]

I'm currently trying to replace my alternator and I have all the bolts removed except for the bottom 14mm pivot bolt. Am I understanding correctly that this bolt is not threaded, it just pushes through? I have removed the nut on the backside but cannot remove the bolt it just turn and turns. If it is just supposed to push out any tricks for doing this? Thanks

[Flecker]

I'm currently trying to replace my alternator and I have all the bolts removed except for the bottom 14mm pivot bolt. Am I understanding correctly that this bolt is not threaded, it just pushes through? I have removed the nut on the backside but cannot remove the bolt it just turn and turns. If it is just supposed to push out any tricks for doing this? Thanks


Actually, if memory serves me I had to lefty loosey mine to get it out. Not threaded necessarily, but it helped.


Take a small rubber mallet and tap it out if you can finagle one down in there.

[JDM VANMAN]

I just removed one from the junk van and I remember having to put a wrench on the other side of that bolt cause it kept spinning forever!!

Maybe yours is doing the same thing?

JDM

[Burntboot]

Thread the nut back on until it is flush with the end of the bolt.
Now it is safe to use a hammer to persuade it out.

When the nut is against the bracket, lose the hammer and spin the nut off.
It should be far enough forward that you can get a wrench (10-12mm) in behind the head and carefully lever it forward, turning the bolt at the same time can help, as can penetrating oil.

[fastcanoe]

I was writing my response at the same time as Tim, but I did want to say that sometimes, even with these bushings all the way cranked in, these alternators still may not fit.

This has been an issue a few of us here (myself included) have ran into with replacement alternators. It's discussed here (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?335-Alternator-woes&p=25266&viewfull=1#post25266), but basically if you've been wrestling with this for a couple of hours and it's not falling into the bracket, then it's not going to without a little help. The way I figure, there are 3 ways to get the replacement alternator in. Take a grinder to the new alternator, take a grinder to the metal bushing inside the bracket (I doubt this is even possible without removing said bushing), or simply remove said bushing and replace with a washer.

I personally opted for option 3 and removed the metal bushing inside the alternator bracket as that was the piece holding up the whole job. This was a pain as the bushing is pressed into the bracket. If I remember correctly, I had to use a c-clamp, and a series of sockets and washers to make it work, but it eventually came out. The idea is put a large socket (inner-diameter of the socket has to be bigger than the outer diameter of the bushing) on the "exit" side of the bushing (the side the bushing will be pushed out), and a small socket (smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing) on the "push" side of the bushing. Then you hook a c-clamp up to it and press it out. The end result will be an alternator that easily fits in the bracket. You'll want to put a washer on the side of the bracket where the bushing used to be (much easier than dealing with the bushing) to make sure that alternator goes back on tight.

With all that being said, it's way easier to just take a grinder to the new alternator and call it a day. I did it this way because knowing these vans, I'll have to do this job again sooner than I'd like and this will make future alternator jobs much easier.

EDIT: I didn't realize you could simply remove the bracket from the block, I was worried of borking something up so I did all the above with the bracket still in the van. I imagine removing this bushing is much easier with the whole bracket out of the van. Good luck! :dance2:



I spent a solid 6 hours yesterday trying to get that sucker in there. I took a hammer to the bushing on the new alternator. I put a C clamp and socket on the bushing on the bracket trying to move it (didn't budge). Finally I checked the forum here and took your advice of grinding/sanding it down. I ended up taking my orbital sander to the non-bushing side of the alternator. Finally got it in.
At that point it was almost 5:00pm and I had a gig to get to. Will finish up today. What a nightmare! :wall:

The last one I put in took me 2 hours. haha

[timsrv]

It's worth mentioning the alternator mount bracket is only held to the block with 2 bolts. If you're having an issue you can always drop the bracket then view/understand the problem up close and personal. Also, with the bracket out it would be much easier to adjust the bushing by putting in a vise and/or whacking with a hammer. Even if you end up grinding something down it's nice to have the bracket out for test fitting. Once the bracket slides on/off the alternator with ease, reinstall the bracket then install the alternator :yes: Tim

[fastcanoe]

It's worth mentioning the alternator mount bracket is only held to the block with 2 bolts. If you're having an issue you can always drop the bracket then view/understand the problem up close and personal. Also, with the bracket out it would be much easier to adjust the bushing by putting in a vise and/or whacking with a hammer. Even if you end up grinding something down it's nice to have the bracket out for test fitting. Once the bracket slides on/off the alternator with ease, reinstall the bracket then install the alternator :yes: Tim

I tried but those bolts were on there pretty solid. I didn't want to open up another can of worms by forcing it.

BUT, I got it back in, tightened the wing nut on top to tighten the belt and then began tightening the other bolt that screws into the top of the alternator and..... I can feel it stripping. :wall::wall::wall: So, it's snug, and I don't want to over tighten it but I will need to address that sooner than later. I'm guessing the threads on the alternator went because the bolt is steel but ???. I didn't back the bolt out to look. I'm going to run it like this for now. I'm thinking if I get a thinner bolt that will go through, I can put a locking washer and nut on the backside and and tighten the front as you would normally. :cry:

[AD2101]

I'm thinking if I get a thinner bolt that will go through, I can put a locking washer and nut on the backside and and tighten the front as you would normally. :cry:

I've been there too, running a longer bolt through the top alternator hole will work fine :dance2:

[fastcanoe]

I've been there too, running a longer bolt through the top alternator hole will work fine :dance2:


Great!! Phew! :dance2:

Thanks!!!

[AnotherUser]

Was there a thread some where on how to protect the alternator from dripping oil and coolant?

I just replaced an alternator that was at least 10+ years old, if not far older that stopped working. It had a lot of oil in it, not sure if that was why it stopped working or not. Either way I put a new one in. I want to add some kind of cover plate to protect it from any fluids.

[Jbbishop2]

I want to add some kind of cover plate to protect it from any fluids.

After I replaced the alternator and installed new seals on the PS pump it wasn't leaking on the alternator any more, but I took a piece of sheet aluminum and bent it up to sit below the PS pump and divert any runoff away from the alternator. I can't find a post with a photo of it, so I'll try to get one, but it's really kind of a simple dumb piece of metal that doesn't attach to anything, just jams in there. I'm sure there are others on the forum who have done a nicer job of it.

[timsrv]

Was there a thread some where on how to protect the alternator from dripping oil and coolant?

I just replaced an alternator that was at least 10+ years old, if not far older that stopped working. It had a lot of oil in it, not sure if that was why it stopped working or not. Either way I put a new one in. I want to add some kind of cover plate to protect it from any fluids.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record I'd like to point out there is a search feature in the upper right hand corner of every forum page (which I just used) and quickly found this: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?409-Power-steering-shield-save-the-alternator&highlight=alternator+shield

I would highly recommend repairing the leaks for obvious reasons, but if you use a shield, keep in mind the main alternator output stud is up high on the back of the alternator and you could potentially have a fire hazard and/or a melt-down issue if anything metallic comes in contact with it (just make sure there's good separation). Tim

[Hammervan]

As windsurfvan notes in post #26, some 4WD vans have a different configuration of the power steering rigid line and these instructions do not work. I sat there scratching my head for a while and finally removed the fan shroud (and passenger seat, service panel, etc...) which finally provided enough room to wiggle the alternator out past the fan blades. I really didn't want to open up the P/S lines. Remarkably, I've never had to remove the alternator in the 15 years I've owned this van and this one is still going strong.10513