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View Full Version : '84 manual, broken shift cable- any assistance appreciated



'84toyvan
11-07-2024, 04:17 PM
Broke the R. trans control shift cable, which runs from the stick to trans, and having zero luck locating this obsolete part. It's my only vehicle, so I need to work out some kind of fix ASAP- can't drive to work, etc. Nothing from wreckers, n/r to Wanted posting placed here on the forum. Could anyone rec. any posbl fix option pls?

Thank You

'84toyvan
11-07-2024, 05:03 PM
A member suggested splicing the cable w/ clamps- surprised I didn't think of that. This fix should work for now, as the cable broke only a foot or so behind the stick, so a bulky splice ought to work, w/ the housing tube trimmed back somewhat.

Thanks, Toyotavantech people!

'84toyvan
11-07-2024, 10:47 PM
Splice looks to be a no-go: the break is right behind the guide-tube that's at the rear of the shifter assembly, so a bulky splice wouldn't feed through. There's a larger protective hose surrounding the cable hose, and it's crimped together w/ a metal hex-band, so I'd have to really butcher the hose-within-a-hose that contains the cable to try and jerry-rig a temp. fix. Does anyone know if Toyota or anyone makes a longer cable of the same dia. having a compatible fixture at the trans end? Then I figure I could run it through the whole guide hose / tube apparatus and possibly attach it at the stick end. Could anyone tell me if it's true, as the mechanic who looked up the part states, that cables from '84 - '87 will fit correctly? I've only located one junked van in this year range- an '87, but alas, auto-trans. If this could be verified, I'd at least have the correct search info. Quite the ordeal...

Thanks Again

'84toyvan
11-09-2024, 12:33 PM
Dancing w/myself, mostly: A different person at the same local dealership parts dept. says '84 - '88 cables fit my '84- NOT '84 - '87. Called a couple of other dealerships, who concur that it's '84 - '88.

Looks like I'll be cutting the outer hose back and splicing cable to an extended rplcmt rod at the stick (stock rod to which the cable is swaged is threaded, so should be easily removable). A jerry-rigged bracket / support will immobilize the new mouth of the hose, and the exposed stick-travel length of cable seems plenty stiff to feed properly on return stroke.