Changing the fuel filter

[User1]

Anyone has some tips on changing the fuel filter? Man that bolt was on there tight, but once I got it loose, fuel everywhere. OK not everywhere, but it was leaking. I guess first thing I'll do next time is do it with a empty tank of gas. Kinda hard to do when I just drive the van a mile and it's getting hot. I'll work on just emptying the tank. :yes:

Any other tips?

[kcg795]

I usually pull the EFI fuse and try to start it to depressurize the system. Loosening the gas cap can relieve any additional pressure. Either way, a little bit will leak out.

[timsrv]

...........Loosening the gas cap can relieve any additional pressure. Either way, a little bit will leak out.

:whs: This is key. Always loosen the gas cap before changing the fuel filter. The fuel in the filter and residual fuel in the rail will leak out no matter what, but if you loosen the fuel cap, even a full tank won't leak. Just don't let the lower filter line hang down as it's possible to get the siphon effect going. Tim

[kcg795]

I had that happen when I took my sweet time changing my headgasket.

[User1]

Woooo doggie!!!! I guess that's what I got to look forward to working on this van!!! :dizzy:

Something as, supposedly simple as changing the fuel filter was anything but! I didn't know I had to take the bracket off after getting the top bolt off, but yeah, you do. And the bottom bolt is just the same as the top bolt. It's top bolt, bracket and bottom bolt. Putting it back together is bottom bolt, kinda get everything lined up and finger tighten on the bracket. Then get the top bolt started on to your filter. After it's started, work at getting your bracket lined up and tightened. Then tighten the the top bolt. The two bolts going into the filter are TIGHT and take a 17mm socket. I used a torque-wrench to break them and tighten them on the new filter. They must be on it tight. You're crushing crush-washers.

What's needed tools wise is;
19mm open-end wrench
17mm socket w/ breaker bar or similar
12mm socket
10mm socket or wrench
Some blocks where you can stop the wrench from turning when torquing
Tip, the bracket is not part of the OEM filter :doh:

Thanks for the help here. I posted my feedback so anyone following could have a tenderfoot's impressions. :lol:
And no, you didn't die and are in hell now!
Be strong! You got other work to do on the van!

[JRSJ]

Ahhhh, the dreaded fuel filter. When I did mine it was hot out, and exposure to the vapours ended up giving me the worst nose/throat infection ever.

[JPERL]

does the filter come with new crush washers?

[timsrv]

OE Toyota ones do............not sure about aftermarket. Tim

[JPERL]

Do I need a flare wrench or will open end suffice?

[timsrv]

You can use a socket/ratchet as these are banjo bolts. 6 point sockets will offer the best grip (if available). Open end wrench is good for back-up. Tim




The fuel filter is on the passenger side of the engine between the distributor and the oil filter (see arrow in picture below):
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/IMG_5030-1.jpg

This is a big filter so unless you have a contaminated fuel system (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?188-Fuel-gauge-not-working/page2) it should only need to be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals. To access and replace you must 1st remove the passenger side seat, center console and engine access panel. Before you remove any lines, loosen the fuel cap enough to release pressure from the system. When pressure is gone use a 6 point 17mm socket on the top banjo bolt and remove. After that's off use a 12mm socket with an extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block. The lower fuel line is flexible, so once the bracket bolts are removed the filter can be maneuvered to a position favorable to access the lower fitting. Again, a 6 point 17mm socket will fit the banjo bolt, but since the filter is loose you'll also need a 19mm open end wrench to back things up (counter torque). Tim

[JPERL]

THank you Tim

[MickeyMike]

Does anyone know the correct part number for the fuel filter for a 1987 4x4 Toyota van? I was given a Fram G6495 which is shown to be the correct filter on several web sites. But the banjo bolts from my engine are 17mm and the fuel inlet/outlet holes in this fram filter are too small for them. I called a couple Toyota dealers who say their part number is 23300 79055. This cross references to the Fram G6495 which I know to be wrong. Is the Toyota part the right one? If so, why does it cross reference to the Fram filter which is wrong?

[MickeyMike]

It turns out the Fram filter I bought is the right one. There are hollow rubber plugs in the inlet and outlet holes which had deceived me into thinking the holes were smaller. The plugs must be there to protect the threads prior to installation.

[Wrench]

Hey! Did your FRAM filter come with crush washers? If not, does anyone know the part number for correct size crush washers? I've been burned by incorrect supplied ones before :no:

Also, anyone care to weigh in on the hastings or wix filters on rockauto? Dirt cheap but no mention of crush washers

[MickeyMike]

The FRAM G6475 filer came with washers but they are not crush washers. I looked at a Duralast filter #FF654DL (also the right one for the van) but it also came with plain washers, not crush washers. I plan to go to my local ACE hardware store tomorrow to buy 4 crush washers for the install. I'll bring one of the banjo bolts with me so I can be sure to get the right size. After all the work I did on removing the old filter I wouldn't want to take a chance on plain washers as I'd worry they might leak gas.

[Burntboot]

I think you will find that those "plain" washers are actually aluminum crush washers.
I prefer the copper type myself, but the supplied ones will work too.

[phychotron]

My WIX came with washers, but I wasn't able to remove my old filter because the bracket was in the way, or something odd where my socket wouldn't fit on and no wrench I had would ninja in there. I suspected later that it was just my fatter than normal impact-socket that was fouling me up, and maybe a thin-wall socket would have done the job. A job for a later date, the book suggests the filter is good for a really long time.

[Wrench]

You can use a socket/ratchet as these are banjo bolts. 6 point sockets will offer the best grip (if available). Open end wrench is good for back-up. Tim
Hey Tim, is the torque spec for the banjo bolts important or should I just make them real dang tight? Can't fn the spec in the service manual. Thanks!

[timsrv]

I don't believe there is a torque spec in the manual for this, but I never tried to look it up so who knows. With crush washers it's a feel you develop. Once snug you should crank it down until the washers have slightly collapsed (conformed and sealed). Here's a good rule of thumb "if it leaks it's not tight enough. If it breaks it's too tight. :LOL2:). Tim

[Wrench]

Thanks Tim! I ended up just torquing them down real tight and the top crush washer squished quite a lot, to the point I was a little worried I overdid it but she ran for 20 minutes with no leaking I could see! Makes me a little nervous not being able to see the underside while the van's running though. I had to use a crescent wrench for counter-torque as I don't have a 19mm open end wrench handy and it made things a little more interesting!

[timsrv]

FYI, 19 mm and 3/4" size is almost identical, so in a pinch you can use a 3/4" wrench in place of 19 mm. Tim

[ssocal87]

On the fuel filter replacement, I managed to drop the crush washer when I pulled the banjo bolt and when the filter was removed; I could not see it well :no:. Can someone tell me in what order the crush washer goes in for the bottom and top connections? Also, is there a torque spec to this? Thank you everyone for the support.

[Wrench]

Much to my dismay, no torque spec. If it's leaking it's too loose, if the washers disintegrate it's too tight. Should be one washer for either side of each banjo hose end (4 total)

[ssocal87]

Thank you Wrench! So on the top bolt, it would go 1. banjo > washer > fuel rail > washer > fuel filter. Essentially, the 2 washers on each side. It was strange as the aftermarket only came with 2 washers. I'm also missing one of the mounting bracket bolts!

Thank you again!

[Gareth]

Much to my dismay, no torque spec. If it's leaking it's too loose, if the washers disintegrate it's too tight. Should be one washer for either side of each banjo hose end (4 total)

Was just looking at this, so will update this thread. It looks like it should be 22 ft-lb (29 Nm) - page FI-7 (EFI System) of the service manual.