ELECTRIC (power) WINDOWS information....

[micah202]

..just started driving an '86 with electric windows,,and of course the passenger side has become non-responsive with the window open:dizzy:

...I've tried the 3 circuit breakers near the fuse box,,but they seem fine.......all fuses seem allright too.
.........the driver-side window works fine,,,,but not the passenger side.............................any clues?........thanx..............m

[timsrv]

In an emergency, you can raise the window by pulling the passenger door switch & jumping 12vdc to the blue wire with red stripe and the blue wire with the white stripe. If nothing happens, reverse the polarity and try again. If the window doesn't budge (and it's not jammed), then it's got a bad motor or a bad connection between the motor and the passenger door switch.

When you're ready to troubleshoot, just remember that both windows run off the same relay, breaker & fuse (so if one window works it's not one of these components). In my experience, a bad switch is the most likely culprit. As you can see in the diagram below, each switch has 2 normally closed contacts when not being operated. If one of these contacts in either switch fails to complete the circuit the window will not operate (regardless of which switch you try). To check switches all you need is an ohm meter. Pull the passenger door switch, then without disturbing the switch position check for continuity between the spade that normally connects to the red wire with blue stripe & the spade associated with the blue wire with the red strip........there should be continuity. If that checks out okay then check for continuity between the spade associated with the green wire with the blue stripe & the blue wire with the white stripe. Again, there should be continuity, if not then the switch is bad.

If the passenger switch and the motor tested good, then it's likely the driver's door switch or perhaps a busted wire in one of the door jams. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/Windowcircuit.jpg

[micah202]

hmm,,,12v to the switchwires did -nothing-,
,,but the motor worked fine when I applied 12v directly to it,,so at least I got the window closed :shock:

....was a bit puzzled that a brand-new(:yes:)replacement passenger side switch (came with the van*) didn't work either,, ,,but from your information I guess that points to the driver-side switch being the issue.

...that's all the time/patience I had to investigate the situation for the time being,,,
....if the switch is 'bad' is there a way to service it,,,or do I join the switch goosechase?




*..the van was previously owned by a retired,obsessive-compulsive instructor of toyota mechanics

[timsrv]

I've never tried to get a new switch, I just always got them out of my parts vans or at the salvage yard. Sometimes switches can be taken apart and contacts can be cleaned/bent to make them work, but IMO this is just a temporary fix. I haven't tried to do this with a van power window switch so I don't even know if it's possible. If one switch is good you could bypass the other and make it a "one switch window". You can also do this for troubleshooting. Just take the harness off the D/S switch and jump the red wire with blue stripe, the green wire with blue stripe, and the white wire with black stripe together. If the window now works off the P/S switch then your problem is a bad D/S switch.

[micah202]

....was thinking/wondering that.
......taking my time before mustering my electronic trouble-shooting brain:dizzy:

...usually avoid vans with electric windows altogether,or change-out the doors,
,,but this mint van was too sweet a deal----now I pay th'price :violn:

[timsrv]

I was troubleshooting power windows today and found a flaw in the schematic posted above. I had given you advice based on that schematic and that's why your window wouldn't come up by jumping those wires. That schematic had the blue wire with the white stripe marked as solid blue (incorrect). To prevent any further confusion I went back and edited the schematic and my post to reflect the correct information. Sorry about the bad advice...... :dizzy:. Tim

[micah202]

...oh mannnn,,I'm pretty embarrased t'say that I wasn't yet familiar with the forward control button on the driver's side,,,and that it cut's out the power to the passenger window:dizzy::no::LOL2:

[timsrv]

:rol: Yeah, they were thinking child safety even back then :wnk:. Of course these vans were some of the 1st vehicles to do that. I remember working at the dealer (when these vans were new) and having jobs come in........Complaint= "sliding door or rear door won't open from the inside" Repair= "disengaged child lock" :no: . Glad it was an easy fix :)>:. Tim

[Chester]

I have an 89 LE and the passenger window has always gone down with the window control on the passenger door, but sometimes has needed the driver door side window switch to go back up.
put it down today and nothing will make it go back up.
I can certainly get a meter ( don't have one) but does anyone know which wires in either the passenger door or the drivers side door I would have to bridge to get the window to go back up?
would love to just take the switch out and put a wire in to get the window up for a few days, until I can dive in and figure out the problem.Thanks!

[timsrv]

Hi Chester,

Here's a thread that has the information you seek: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?743-ELECTRIC-WINDOWS-information

[Chester]

Hi Chester,

Here's a thread that has the information you seek: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?743-ELECTRIC-WINDOWS-information

Totally stupid question. How do I get 12 volt dc power to those 2 leads to get my passenger window up?
i tried to take apart the driver side switch to clean the contacts and now I am in the market for another drivers side switch. I could not actually get it apart, but at least one of the contact pieces fell out. So feels like it's toast.

i am thinking of driving 110 miles to pick up a couple of doors with manual windows. Since I killed my switch on the drivers door and I think I have a bad switch on the passenger door, I am thinking I know how to replace the doors and I will never have to worry about power windows again.....:wall:

[timsrv]

Yes, power windows suck. Both of my daily driver's have crank windows. Didn't think much of it until I had a van with power window problems & now I value the "upgrade" of manual windows. I went through the same experience with my driver's window switch assy. The problem is the push button for the "lock-out" feature doesn't come apart (must be glued or something). You pretty much have to break the thing to get it apart.

I have a lawn mower battery I use with test leads for stuff like this, but you could also rig up some wires from the van's battery. If you go direct to the motor leads, just momentarily connect power. If the window doesn't move, reverse polarity and it should go the other way. If it doesn't move either direction when power is applied directly to the motor leads, then you have a failed motor. Tim

[Chester]

My inclination is to stuff a paper clip in between the two wires in the female connector and run a long wire from the plus side of my battery ( all I have is household wire from electrical sockets). This may be horrifying but I don't really do electric.....
My set up would have no way to "reverse polarity" so I think I may not be grasping the fine points of "applying 12 volt dc" to the leads in question.
At this point the passenger window doesn't work, so I am also willing to cut off the female connector on the passenger side window switch in order to get the window back up. Van looks "great" with a trash bag covering the rolled down passenger window in my driveway.
Plus , like I said, drivers side switch is toast (rattles inside) after my ineffectual ministrations. Can I still get passenger window up with toasted switch on driver' side?

[timsrv]

Just use 12V on the leads called out on the other thread. These are the leads to the motor. Reversing polarity simply means switching the position of the wires from your power source. If you don't trust the colors as called out in that other thread pull the entire door panel, cut the wires coming from the motor & put 12V directly to these. If the window fails to travel the direction you want, then reverse the positive & negative wires from the battery and try again. If nothing happens either way then the motor is shot. tim

[Chester]

SUCCESS! Got the window up by running 2 wires from the battery ( one from the ground and one from the hot) to the connector at the passenger door switch --blue wire with red stripe and blue wire with white stripe.

Good to know my passenger window motor is good, and since the window is up, I am less worried about having a moldy Pacific NW Van.

Not being electrically inclined I previously did not run a wire from the ground, just one wire from the hot. Surprised I did not blow the motor
Any idea if the switches are available new?
Or if any switches from a 4 runner , corolla or similar vintage may work?


Thanks for your quick reply

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/upsidedownvan_zpse442f3cb.jpg

[timsrv]

I fixed your picture. Glad you got it figured out. Sorry you had to take the door panel off. I checked into possible substitutions about 2 years ago & found the van window switches to be unique to the van. Perhaps something could be hacked into the arm rest, but don't think you'll find an exact fit. At that time I was told new parts were NLA, but don't take my word for it. I've been able to get several things that I was previously told were NLA, but that happens less & less these days. Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

I've had problems with the power windows on my older Toyota's- 91' Landcruiser and 85' Celica GTS, unfortunately I never had them fixed and just rolled with it. But what I did notice is that even on those vehicles when I would open the window on a rainy day the water would always fall right into the switches... I just came to the conclusion that that was the cause of the switch to fail. But I really don't know if that's a valid cause.

My Townace had power windows and I just keep a small rag over the switches on rainy days just in case my assumption is right.... Call me over cautious!!

[Chester]

Can't find switches so I am looking at replacing my doors with doors that have manual windows. Some of the doors I am looking at don't have mirrors still on them. Has anyone replaced the mirrors? Moved them from one van to another? How hard is it? Can I wire my electric mirrors into manual doors if I move the wiring harness?
thanks for any replies.

[timsrv]

All you need are the window mechanisms and the interior door panels. If you can find some nice doors for cheap in the right color, then maybe. Just seems like swapping entire doors would be overkill (unless your's are smashed up or something). Swapping mirrors isn't hard. Tim

[Chester]

Digging around on ebay I found a new window switch from china for $8.99 that says it fits a 1987 Cressida passenger door. It looks identical to the switch I pulled out of my passenger side, except it appears the body housing is slightly longer so it may not fit in the case but it looks like it will plug in. Any idea if this would work?
As to replacing the doors, I don't care if they are the right color, I just want to roll up and down my windows without jumping a switch from the battery. As you remember my van was "totaled" in an accident last year- the rear bumper is cocked at an angle. Use is more important than looks at this point.

[Chester]

It looks like the window switch for the passenger side is available 84810-32050 replaced by 84810-30130 for $18 on ebay not OEM and $71.93 at Toyota Parts Zone

[Chester]

Got switches off the 88 van in Tacoma pick n pull. Driver side switch was out of the door, but it looked recent because it was sitting on the floor of the passenger front floor. Plugged them in to my van and NOTHING! :wall:
I know my window motors work because I can jump power from the battery to the proper wires and the windows go up or down.

Couple of questions. Will the window switch on the passenger side WORK if the drivers side switch it bad? Or does the passenger switch depend on some sort of circuit connection from the drivers switch ,,,and if it does,does anyone know what wires I need to bridge on the drivers side connection to make the passenger switch work?

anyone know where I can get a drivers master switch that works?

Anyone know where I can get manual window regulators and door trim so I can switch out my electric ones?

[timsrv]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/Windowcircuit.jpg

If you reference the above diagram you can see the PS side switch gets it's ground from the DS switch. If the contacts are messed up on the DS switch (for the PS window) and/or the child lock-out switch is damaged, then the PS window will not work. Same goes for the wires that travel from one door to the other. Usual trouble spots are where they flex in the hinge areas. Over the course of 25 years these wires fatigue and break inside the insulation. If the switches are good, then the next most likely fault is the red/blue & green/blue wires where they bend in the driver's door hinge area. If it's a wire creating the fault it could be either door, but since driver's doors usually get used over twice as much as passenger doors, this is where I would check 1st. One way to test for this is to pull both switches to expose the wires, then while observing color coding, jump a new temporary wire from one switch to the other. Example: If you find jumping the green/blue from one switch to the other solves the problem, then that's the wire run & all it's connections you want to focus on. Tim

[timsrv]

So I am having troublemaker with both of my electric windows ( see my other thread- passenger window hack) and it has been fine because my rear sunroof works, I can open it for some air flow. My sunroof switch has been wonky and had a crack, and now it has split in half. Eureka, I knew there was a problem with the switch, so I have 2 extras. NEITHER of them work. The sunroof motor is fine, if I jump it off the battery to the blue with yellow stripe and blue with red stripe the sunroof will open and close.
I looked at the fuse box and the relays, nothing is marked to be specifically to the sunroof.
Any ideas??????
Do I I have 3 bad switches? Is there a fuse or relay I need to check?
thanks in advance

Chester, I just found this new thread you started. Since it's directly related to this one I deleted it & I'm quoting your post here. In order to help you solve your issue it's important to have all the information. In my previous post I was under the impression that everything worked except the PS window (evidently the problem has gotten worse :doh:). Since nothing works now, this is an important clue, but probably just an additional issue to the original problem.

The common link for both power windows & sunroof is the "power main relay" & the "20A pwr circuit breaker" (top left of the above schematic). The relay is probably good, but I suspect you tripped the breaker. The breaker is located behind the glove box. It's not labeled in the picture below, but it's the one directly above the one that says "rear blower reset button". Yours may or may not have a yellow face, but it will have a little hole in it for resetting if tripped. Just take a paperclip or something small enough to enter that hole & push it in. If you hear a metallic click, it was tripped and you just reset it.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_5831.jpg

Here's a figure from the service manual that also shows the position of this breaker and position of the "power main relay". Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/relayampbreakerlocations_zps164f5bbe.jpg

[Chester]

Reset works for sunroof motor.

Plugged " new to me" window switches in and it worked just long enough to bring the drivers window part way down, then nothing. I know why that van was in the pick n pull! The electric window switches didn't work!

i think these van should come with a paper clip.

[Chester]

I bought a plug into the cigarette lighter gizmo that had a switch and a red and black wires- designed to power auxilliaries. I was thinking that I could just plug it into the correct places on the driver or passenger door connectors- temporary fix- apply power window comes down, unhook, apply power window goes up, unhook - easier than jumping the switches from the battery, I could do it without leaving the front of the van) until I could find a master switch drivers door switch. When I use it, it will bring windows down but not up, But jumping off the battery will bring windows up. So not the best temporary fix. I guess windows up takes more power. I bought the passenger switch mentioned above off ebay, I have a spare passenger switch, I am sure as I can be without a voltmeter that it is my driver door master switch that is bad. What wire should I jump on the driver door connector to make my passenger switch work ( complete the ground)? I really would like to have one front window that works as it is finally summer here in the pacific NW and hot for us. Did I mention my A/C doesn't work?

[timsrv]

On your driver's door master switch (for the PS window) white/black wire supplies ground to the switch. When the switch is not being messed with, it allows ground to pass through the terminals with the red/blue wire & the the green/blue wire. If it's the driver's door master switch that's preventing the PS window from working, you can bypass the switch by simply applying ground to the red/blue & red/green wires there..........then the PS door switch should be able to raise & lower the window.

Since you've already tried more than one switch, I'm thinking it's more likely a wire or wires in a door jam area that's messed up. Tim

[Chester]

Despite my many skills, I am an electrical idiot. My original switch broke and I have tried an additional switch that had been pulled out of the door that I got from a junk yard. I am thinking it was already broken, which is why it was not actually attached to the van.

So I am not sure I think it is a wire hiding deep, I think I have had 2 bad switches, which is what happened to me when I replaced the speedometer cable, the first one I pulled was bad, the second was fine.

Being an electrical idiot, if I run a wire from white/black connector to red/blue connector and from white/black to green/blue connector on the driver side master switch female connector would that complete the ground so my passenger switch will work? I have a couple of paper clips. Or do I also need to connect green/blue to red/ blue on driver side master switch female connector?

[timsrv]

if I run a wire from white/black connector to red/blue connector and from white/black to green/blue connector on the driver side master switch female connector would that complete the ground so my passenger switch will work?

Yes, assuming the white/black is actually supplying ground, this should work. If you're leaving the driver's door switch hooked up while this bypass is in place, be careful not to engage it as it will short out if you do. One other curious thing, I noticed this diagram (taken from the wire schematic section of the 87 Factory Service Manual) does not show the child lock feature (the button on the driver's door switch to prevent PS window operation). This being the case, I have no idea what wires to connect to bypass that switch. But try this 1st.

An alternate & more direct way to bypass the DS master switch would be to put ground to the red/blue & green/blue wires on the PS switch. If you do that, you're bypassing both of these wires from both door jams. So even if one or both of these wires is broken it won't matter. If you have both of these wires grounded at the PS switch, you don't need them anymore, so you can cut them to prevent a short in case the driver's side switch is depressed. Tim

[Chester]

I couldn't take it anymore. Opening and closing the front windows by jumping off the battery was a PITA. I went to picknpull, bought a couple of manual window regulators, took a ton of photos of what they looked like installed and then proceeded to uninstall them. Learned a few things.

1. Go ahead and remove the lower service panel in the door. You will drop something down there.
2. Even though the shop manual from Toyota tells you to take the mirror off, don't. The window comes out without removing the mirror.
3. Mark the door from the photos you took. Electric window motors/ regulators attach in totally diffent places than manual window regulators.

Now I need to find some decent trim panels. Until then, a cut out piece of plywood will have to do.
it's nice having front windows that roll down!:dance2:

[FCDRIFT]

Just take the harness off the D/S switch and jump the red wire with blue stripe, the green wire with blue stripe, and the white wire with black stripe together. If the window now works off the P/S switch then your problem is a bad D/S switch.

is there a way to do passenger window switch? i tried to bypassing the d/s switch and still nothing. thanks!

[timsrv]

Yes, just unplug the switch from the harness, then use a couple jumper wires with spades to interconnect the harness terminals for Blue/Red to Red/Blue, then use the 2nd jumper wire to interconnect the terminals Blue/White to Green/Blue. With these terminals connected, the switch on the driver's door should operate the P/S window. Tim

[FCDRIFT]

thanks tim!

i actually got it working before i saw your post. i ended up taking apart both d/s and p/s switches and cleaned them. a bit of sand paper, electrical cleaner, and bam!! passenger window works.

as an added bonus, by door locks work every single time now :dance1::dance2:

[timsrv]

:grpwave::grpwave::grpwave::grpwave:

[Rico]

So just take switches out sand terminals and should fix the problem?
Are you using any dielectric grease? Would that even help?

[FCDRIFT]

Yea just use some fine grit fans paper. 400 grit should be fine.

Do do not use grease!!!!!

i tried to use grease the first time and the gunk turned into black stuff again within a week and caused the contact to fail again.

Right now now my windows and door locks still work. Just lightly sanded and no grease. Good luck!

[Rico]

Thank you for you help I got the windows to work perfectly but how do you take the in-dash door lock switch out to clean it?

[FCDRIFT]

Thank you for you help I got the windows to work perfectly but how do you take the in-dash door lock switch out to clean it?


Main pretty new to these vans and I'm not sure chich switch you are talking about. My door locks are all on the door panel on the drivers side switches. Maybe there is a different setup?

[Rico]

Oh ok see on my 86 the door lock switch is located on the dash next to the door
I tried to get to it to clean it as well but couldn't find a way

[johnnyvegas]

hay tim where are the relays located in the 1989 le? i have similar problem. I played with it so much now that both sides don't go up or down on either switch. Started with driver side and i tried to jump the driver side window with the passenger window and I think i fried something. no power coming into the switch at all now.:dizzy:

[johnnyvegas]

from the lowest of lows to the highest of highs... :lol: this thread was awesome. reset breaker, plugged in pick n pull master switch DS window goes down for the first time in years ( i just bought it) and PS works again. The master window control on the DS won't roll control the PS. the PS wires from the master have constant power when i push either up or down, both red and green show hot, rather than alternating power with either up or down. Any ideas what this may be? At this point I am just happy they both go up and down but i would like to get it to work properly..?

[johnnyvegas]

i know this is an old thread but i went through the same issues. instead of the car battery, using your portable drill battery works very well. any size drill. i also decided to go manual and found a great donor with super clean panels too. hesitated for 7 days, went back to the pick n pull in Sacramento and the whole dang van was gone....

[timsrv]

The "Power Main Relay" is the one used for the power window circuit. I marked it below with the red arrow. It resides in the lower center position:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/EFImainRelay.jpg

Not likely the relay is bad, much more likely you tripped the breaker. The power window breaker is above & to the right of the fuse box in the top position. There is a hole in it's face that is used to reset when tripped. Remove the glove box so you can view it, then take a paperclip and bend part of it to stick out straight, then poke it in the hole and push.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/61db7c36-2cb2-453e-8c4f-57ca2e9f958e_zpsafimgt6f.jpg

[johnnyvegas]

Tim is it possible to make 1 good master switch out of 2 partially working switches? My DS door was not working and I bought a pick n pull master switch. Reset breaker and now DS works but PS does not on either switch. When I put the old one back on the PS works and the DS does not. ...

[timsrv]

Switches have limited life spans. Sometimes you can get lucky and fix them, but taking these apart is a hassle, and usually not productive. The P/S window lock-out button on the master switch usually breaks when taking the master apart. Gotta try though, as there's not too many options out there. Whenever you see these in salvage yards, snatch them up........Or better yet, snatch up the crank window parts, interior door panels and convert. Electric windows are nice when they work, but totally suck when they stop working........and suck even worse when you can't find parts. Tim

[johnnyvegas]

Switches have limited life spans. Sometimes you can get lucky and fix them, but taking these apart is a hassle, and usually not productive. The P/S window lock-out button on the master switch usually breaks when taking the master apart. Gotta try though, as there's not too many options out there. Whenever you see these in salvage yards, snatch them up........Or better yet, snatch up the crank window parts, interior door panels and convert. Electric windows are nice when they work, but totally suck when they stop working........and suck even worse when you can't find parts. Tim

Found a great condition salvage donor van for manual windows with panels nicer than mine. Hesitated a few days, went back and the entire van was gone.:wall:

[timsrv]

When that crusher gets hungry they gotta feed it. I've had this happen too. Sometimes they'll leave stuff in the yard for 6 months or more, other times it will only be there a few weeks. My local yard got a pristine 5 speed 4wd once. When I found it I couldn't believe it was there. I tried to buy the entire van but they refused to even consider selling. I came back a week or so later with time and tools to pull the transmission and strip it down. Van was gone. When I asked about it they said due to all the rain nobody had been buying parts, so they put their crushing/scrap metal salvage operation into high gear. I would have given at least double what they made in scrap metal value. What a waste. Tim

[djshimon]

I see the mounts for the electric motor are different than manual, but is the window glass mounts the same for both?

[djshimon]

I'll answer my question-they are the same.
My van had been changed to manual windows before I bought it- I was told it kept blowing a fuse so his(PO) mechanic changed it out to manual cranks. I never liked the look of these nor the panels I pulled from a junkyard van so I decided to fix it on a really hot August weekend.
I did some trouble shooting with the help of this and the other thread(thanks all) and determined it was the drivers door switches. The difficult part of troubleshooting these locks is mine was broken on the drivers side window lockout switch so neither side can open the passengers window. To further confuse, the passenger switch must be connected to even use the drivers side switch! That threw me for a few.
What I did was close the circuit at the switch by soldering across the terminals-However I cannot lockout the passenger from using their window switch:argue:. In the future I will solder in a switch there.
Also all of the contacts had to be cleaned with sandpaper(or emery board)-which worked great. You may be able to get some new ones somewhere?
I think my picture should explain it with the big goop of solder across the terminals.
This gave me electric door locks again:dance2:4351

[grantbgarner]

Hi there, This seemed like the best thread to jump in on. I have a DS power window issue. the PS works, door locks work, lock out works, DS seems out and was taped over but the PO with electrical tape. I will be diving into this soon as it is annoying not to have the window working. Would it be possible, assuming the motor is working, to control both DS and PS using the good PS switch?

[johnnyvegas]

Hi there, This seemed like the best thread to jump in on. I have a DS power window issue. the PS works, door locks work, lock out works, DS seems out and was taped over but the PO with electrical tape. I will be diving into this soon as it is annoying not to have the window working. Would it be possible, assuming the motor is working, to control both DS and PS using the good PS switch?

I went through the exact issue you described. After several non working controls from salvage and numerous headaches i just switched to manual cranks. Lots of hassle trying to get the pw to work for me. Maybe you have better luck.

[Kauco]

Tim your the man!
I jumped the wires and finally the windows work. This forum is awsome!! :dance2:

[timsrv]

:dance1::thmbup:

[scotty]

I put a new window motor in on the drivers side, and it works, but when the window gets to the top, it makes a loud clunk and same when it starts to move down. I can't really see anything in there, but it dosen't seem to be in there right, by the sound of it. I can also feel the a shock through the door when it makes this noise. Any ideas?

[PNW vanwagon]

not sure if it's the same circumstances but the van i got a few months ago had the driver side window coming off it's track. i opened up the door panel and the adhesive had dried up and gotten old so the glass was flopping around a bit. put on new adhesive and it's working well now.

[Lois85]

Yes, power windows suck. Both of my daily driver's have crank windows. Didn't think much of it until I had a van with power window problems & now I value the "upgrade" of manual windows. I went through the same experience with my driver's window switch assy. The problem is the push button for the "lock-out" feature doesn't come apart (must be glued or something). You pretty much have to break the thing to get it apart.

I have a lawn mower battery I use with test leads for stuff like this, but you could also rig up some wires from the van's battery. If you go direct to the motor leads, just momentarily connect power. If the window doesn't move, reverse polarity and it should go the other way. If it doesn't move either direction when power is applied directly to the motor leads, then you have a failed motor. Tim


Hey Tim!
Im curious if there is a way to replace to electric windows with cranks without having to replace the entire door. :wave2:
My drivers side window does not go down at all, and my passenger side, controlled by the driver, does function properly but if on the passenger side, can only roll down, not up. I would love to upgrade to manual windows :)

[timsrv]

Here's a quote from post #11 (1st page this thread):


All you need are the window mechanisms and the interior door panels. If you can find some nice doors for cheap in the right color, then maybe. Just seems like swapping entire doors would be overkill (unless yours are smashed up or something). Swapping mirrors isn't hard. Tim

Parts can be swapped from one door to another (no need to swap entire doors).

[SoORYotas]

After reviewing several of the power window threads I decided this one to be the best to post to. The switches for the LE Power Windows are available! I needed some for my 4x4 project van and nagging thought of always seeing Haynes or CHilton manuals listing "Toyota Van and Cressida", I decided to chase the window switch as a Cressida part and there they are supplied by multiple vendors on ebay. I chose Switch Doctor in Decatur GA ordering their Item No. 370542649817 for $18.00 Each. The switch arrived today, plugged it in to the Passenger Door plug and now I have the PS side working and (probably due to the lack of throughput in the old switch) the PS window now works from the drivers door switch panel as well. Switch looks like it will fit if
you can carefully remove the exterior cover to the DS switch panel to make replacement on the DS.:dance2:

Cheers, SoORYotas

[syn]

any tips on this? my window is down and i can feel the motor kinda trying to move but it doesn't. I ruled out the switch and I ordered a new motor but after taking out the panel it almost looks impossible to replace.

[SoORYotas]

The replacement will have to done with the window regulator assembly removed from the door. If your panel is off and the window will move down you will see two holes in the door that will line up with two bolts that hold the Window assembly to the regulator. Put something in the bottom of the door to cushion the glass if it falls when you remove the bolts. Window and metal frame will lift up out and away (outside) from the door frame at an angle. Set the glass aside and tackle the regulator which is three or four bolts at the front center of the door. Take regulator assembly out the the larger opening at the back of the door. Check this thread and others as some of the aftermarket motors require some wiring or determining which wire drives up and which down. Good Luck . . . it really is not to difficult :yes:

SoORYotas

[syn]

Any idea where I can find this motor? I went through advance Auto site and they sent me this motor and it's not even close to the original.8096

[AD2101]

The one at the bottom is the "original" one, yes? Because they aren't supposed to look like that, they're much similar to the one up top. FWIW, I had to do the same job a little over a year ago and the Dorman lift motor (https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-742-600-Window-Lift-Motor/dp/B000E35WEC/) I bought off of Amazon was the same in form and function as OEM, and it works great. It appears to me that the someone before you shoehorned in a different power window motor, hopefully they didn't hack up the harness, because the "wrong" one you got should be exactly what you need.

[syn]

Thanks that's what I was afraid of.

[phychotron]

My driver side window switch is going out and the passenger side has gone out. I can get the passenger side down with the swicth for it on the drivers door. The driver window switch is touchy and is starting to go out. I can feel the mechanism is obviously worn internally on the switch compared to the other.

Havent seen one another one of these with electric windows and was wondering what/if other vehicles had the same electric switches i could salvage?

Could I rebuild these?

Is the 2 switch panel on the drivers side two individual switches or a two-switch combo?


My driver door window won't roll up all the way. In order to get it up all the way i have to hold it up with my hand just right and work the switch up. Sometimes it catches and will lock it that last 1/4 inch. I've had the window out before and was wondering if it was a lining up thing on my part or if the door is just bent a little? When rolling it up its like its almost doing it.. bump bump bump up and down that last 1/4". when it goes all the way up its like the motor locks it in place.

Bonus question: Why are my side window gaskets shrinking, and how can I fix this? Doesn't appear to be an issue but its perplexing to see. Saw one in the junk yard and I almost pulled the gaskets in case I needed to 'extend' mine or something.

[VanCo]

This is a direct replacement for the passenger side:

https://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-cressida-window-switch/toyota-cressida-passenger-power-window-switch-1985-1988/

There is no direct replacement for the driver's side.

I just bought a few more of the passenger switches to see if I can take them apart and use the contacts and rockers in the driver's side. I'm almost certain the parts will work.

[Ace MM]

Could I rebuild these?
I have taken mine apart and cleaned the contacts. They are delicate and will break.

[Lois85]

Switches have limited life spans. Sometimes you can get lucky and fix them, but taking these apart is a hassle, and usually not productive. The P/S window lock-out button on the master switch usually breaks when taking the master apart. Gotta try though, as there's not too many options out there. Whenever you see these in salvage yards, snatch them up........Or better yet, snatch up the crank window parts, interior door panels and convert. Electric windows are nice when they work, but totally suck when they stop working........and suck even worse when you can't find parts. Tim


Hey Tim--
Neither of my windows roll down. I have cleared out the build up the connection points once or twice before. Ideally I would love to get crank windows-- Is there any specific part I could grab new or rig from a different vehicle or is it just luck of the draw with pulling it out from a van? Colorado doesn't have a huge amount of Toyota vans in junk yards.

Thanks for all your help!

[JDM VANMAN]

I remember my 85’ Celica GTS had the same type of driver side Master Swicth as a 84’-85’ van but i no longer have that vehicle to verify.

I may have a set of switches I pulled from a 85’ van both driver and passenger side, I’ll take a look and follow up when I find them.:thmbup:

JDM

[JDM VANMAN]

Found’em-

84’-86’ toyota van power window switches
84’-86’ toyota van power window switches (https://imgur.com/gallery/EQjbSYC)

My laptop is down and I had to use my phone to post pictures.

JDM

[Lois85]

oh thats very kind of you! Re-reading I realized I didn't ask what I meant to ask very clearly. I am curious if I could possibly get manual cranks from a different toyota vehicle to replace my electric ones I currently have. Or if they have to be specifically from a toyota van? Seems like they are slim pickins on the internet but I guess I also don't know exactly how to measure and what I am looking for specifically.. any guidance on that? thanks! :)

[JDM VANMAN]

Lois85,

sorry I didn’t read that thread clearly and thank you for the additional clarification, here’s a thread when 8 removed the window regulator from a van in the yard. This will give you a visual on how it looks and if it’s the same as a van with power windows. I’m sure they can be swapped out, I met a guy in BC that did the swap out for $120CA per side.

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?6695-Window-Regulator-Removal&p=39117&highlight=Window+regulator#post39117

JDM

[Lois85]

This is a really great thread! So looking at manual window regulators, I am curious if you think it would be possible to get them from a different vehicle, maybe an 85 toyota truck? From what I can see, they seem like a pretty straight forward part... Any advice?
Thanks!

[JDM VANMAN]

I think the 85’ truck doors are completely different and the regulators are unique to each vehicle.

JDM

[Lois85]

I think the 85’ truck doors are completely different and the regulators are unique to each vehicle.

JDM

darn! Well thanks for that input!
so I have my driver side panel off— I’m wondering if I should start with getting new switches and see where that leads me?

[JDM VANMAN]

There might be new switches available, Vanco posted a link in posting number 65. I'm not sure but I think the 84'-89' Toyota 4Runner, Truck, and Celica have the same power switches if your looking for spares or parts?

JDM

[Lois85]

Found’em-

84’-86’ toyota van power window switches
84’-86’ toyota van power window switches (https://imgur.com/gallery/EQjbSYC)

My laptop is down and I had to use my phone to post pictures.

JDM

Would you still have these? or want to sell them to me?

[oldvanguy]

this thread is excellent! having gone through all the D/S master control possibilities listed (disassembly, cleaning contacts and reassembly), i got everything working except the D/S window (which fortunately is closed). i'm now of the opinion that my D/S master control is toast and that any "pick and pull" bone yard control would probably be "iffy". my mission now is to graft a new '89-'94 toyota pick-up control (from Switch Doctor in Georgia for $20) onto the van wiring harness going to the D/S master control plug-in. they both have nine connections. assuming i can get a cut-off connector from a Toyota pick-up in a bone-yard, is this likely to work? does anyone have a tip on mating the wires from the van to the pick up plug-in connector? any/all comments, help or suggestions would be appreciated.

[oldvanguy]

re: my previous post: new plan!

given that the only thing not working on the master control panel is the D/S window switch, instead of replacing the entire master control, i now want to simply try to connect a replacement generic momentary switch (DORMAN, etc) to the D/S master control wiring harness, physically attaching it to the inner door panel below the armrest).

am i correct to assume that i disconnect the R and G wires from the harness to power the new remote momentary switch and tap into the W-B wire still within the harness for ground?

is there any reason that this fix will not work, or disturb the P/S window operation and/or lock-out function?

thanks for any comments or suggestions.

[timsrv]

Unless you rewire the entire circuit, in order for a different switch to work it needs to be electrically identical to the factory switch you are replacing. Meaning it needs to have the same number of terminals and some of the terminals need to be normally closed (NC) while others need to be normally open (NO). The schematic posted earlier shows which terminals should be NC and which are NO. Tim

[Lois85]

Hey! I hit the jackpot with finding manual window regulators in Denver! Woohoo! Now I am curious if there is a thread about converting my electric windows to manual windows. I am assuming that this shouldn't be too difficult a task, but I love all the info I can get!

[micah202]

Hey! I hit the jackpot with finding manual window regulators in Denver! Woohoo! Now I am curious if there is a thread about converting my electric windows to manual windows. I am assuming that this shouldn't be too difficult a task, but I love all the info I can get!



....I'd be curious as well.
I've done a fair bit of parting these vans over the years, so generally just switch to emanuel doors when I'm having issues with the lectrics.
To simply swith the mechanisms would save on repainting the doors. <;~]

[JDM VANMAN]

There's a guy out in Delta BC that does the conversions for about $150 per side when I spoke to him about 3-4 years ago, he's a car junkie and has around 200 cars stored away on 3 properties. right now he's selling 3 vans on CL so you might be able to contact him to get an idea and pass it on to us!!!???:wnk::yes:

JDM

[micah202]

..What yer really telling me is that it can be done,, IF I ever need to, as I've got 2 sets of doors with manual windows. :wnk:

[JDM VANMAN]

Yes I’m thinking’s that the window regulator bolt pattern is the same for both power and non power windows, you would just need to cut a hold in the door panel for the window cranks or find a flat flat door panel without the integrated armrest and power window/lock options that may get in the way of the cranks.

JDM

[outlawmws]

Getting back to window/door lock switches, I've read where several "fixed" the burnt switch contacts with "sandpaper". As Tim as alluded, this is temporary.

Why?

The switches deteriorate due to arcing. Arcing gets worse the rougher the contact surface is, and its often mostly on one side. The arc starts from any pointed edge and sanding lines leave many.

Any abrasive needs to be, or finish with the finest grit you can get. Crocus cloth is decent but 400 or even 600 grit will work. Finer is better.

Lastly you want to polish those contacts. I just did mine and a Dremel small diameter buffing wheel makes it into the pockets just barely; be careful with the toggle pieces; they get hot fast. I used no polishing compound, just the naked wheel.

I did not use any class of sandpaper or crocus cloth; I used a very fine alumina sharpening stone for all except the main switch body contacts as those were inaccessible. For those I used a sharp scraper. A dental scraper can work here.


Attempting a pic:

Failed again....

[timsrv]

Quality switch contacts are also coated/plated with special materials that help resist arcing and minimize carbon deposits. Over time they can wear out. Using a buffing wheel for a short period is probably okay or perhaps try using a pencil eraser, but never sand or file switch contacts. Tim