2CT timing belt change

[Andywear]

well I started, :lol:

was hoping there was enough room to get in without removing the driver seat and pan but no luck, maybe if was not my first time but ill need all the space i can get.
was easier then I expected but of course, removing is always easier then putting back together.
I am separating the bolts in red solo cups to help. Lets hope I can remember the steps, I have decided no drinking while the work goes on.
(pay no attention to the sideways or upside down pics, *maybe mod can assist*.) :wall:

9691

unfortunately a lot of the terms in the manual are not in my vocabulary... :doh:
but here we go
9692

found a gift here.... really light weight, prolly made of tin.
9690


SO there is a small access under the driver seat, for the veteren maybe possible... I however am a little green under the collar.
9689

zoom in closer can see the stuff
9688

ok, the gear shifter, the transfer case cables were not to bad to disconnect. the fuel tank lever was easy and I left the parking brake hooked up.
Remove fan shroud and fan.

the belts tensors were easy to get to after that. I got a oil leak...... hands are filthy black, from the last belt tensioner at the very bottom, its called the 'idler' in the manual. you can actually reach it by crawling under the van.
I have 4 freaking belts on this 2ct, and 2 of them go around the exact same pullys, the 3 - altenater, fan & crankshaft. I suppose its a back up and the other 2 run the A/C and power steering, both which can bust and you can still make the trip home... :?:
I guess not a bad system

9687

next step, check TDC, remove the glow plugs, align the top pully with the timing marks.
tomorrow ladies and gentlemen.:wave1:

[Ace MM]

:dance2:

check TDC, remove the glow plugs, align the top pully with the timing marks.
I like to start at TDC

[Andywear]

day 2. :slap:

about 30+ mins to remove the glow plugs cuz thats in the manual so you can align the TDC mark, thinking the compression will be to strong to rotate the motor.... however the last glow plug is a bit difficult to get to so I left it in, and no issues, I didn't have to rotate it full cycle , so maybe that the deciding factor. Maybe someone else can verify if really needed. edit, *when you put on the new belt, the manual says to rotate thru full cycle 2 times, I tried with glow plugs in, no go. I removed the 3 plugs I could get to and was easy enough* so removing only 3 plugs is acceptable when replacing the timing belt.

9695

Next, remove the crankshaft pulley, I encourage everyone to invest in a impact, electric was easy enough to use.
19mm or 3/4"

9694
and this is where I stopped for the night..... :wall::wall:
I don't know what to do. may just grind it smooth and leave it alone... I doubt I can find a pulley this side of the world in decent amount of time.
The puller tool has wider teeth, all I have to do is rotate the pieces. Tomorrow morning lets hope the pulley comes loose.

9693

[cusco-awd]

I tried to use that style puller also with the same results. You need one that attaches to the bolts, I got one at Autozone. On the TDC you can just pull the timing cover and line up the mark on the cam gear to the head.

I just did the T belt and Headgasket on mine so it is still fresh

[Andywear]

Good deal, Ill head up there this morning and see what they got.

[Andywear]

Day 3.
rented the timing belt puller, for all of $16 probably should of just bought it.
the 2 bolts that it came with are the wrong thread pitch, so I had to improvise.:wnk:

9706


To help offset the problem i created by using the wrong tool, I sanded down the chipped part hoping it wont tear into my belt.

9705

72 ft#, glad I had an breaker bar to use to jam up the crankshaft pulley from spinning,

9704

Well, it went back together nicely....
9703

I did not get the steering pump belt tight enough so its screeching and whining. plan to get under there tomorrow.

I have vid of me starting it up after bolting back together but since sounds good, no point of uploading it.

I did loose a 10mm 1/4" drive somewhere in the engine bay...... :pissed:

[Andywear]

Last step.



https://youtu.be/jihaoASDVKY

[bikeregg]

My water pump went out over the summer, at about 112,000km and I decided to replace the timing belt while I was in there. The timing belt had been replaced previously at 90,000km. I also replaced the camshaft oil seal, oil pump oil seal and the crank shaft oil seal as they were all old and leaking. The 1986 Camry was offered with the 2CT diesel engine, and water pumps are still available for those from RockAuto.com. The oil seals are available on Amazon, just need to measure them and order the proper size. I also found the timing belt tensioning spring was not strong enough to keep it from slipping off a tooth, and I had to go back in and set it back up, using a pry bar to provide good tension while I tightened the bolts.

[Andywear]

....I also replaced the camshaft oil seal, oil pump oil seal and the crank shaft oil seal as they were all old and leaking. ....

That stinks all your seals were leaking, I wonder how that happened with such low miles on the motor.

This is just what I was looking into, so thank you for posting.
9711
9710

Not only the oil present but also the cover being tore up were the crankshaft pulley is located.
The leak is not to bad at this time, so I'll start buying parts to replace those seals (unless you have to measure first), I was reviewing the manual of how to replace the crackshaft seal but was overwhelmed by the steps.



how did you replace the seal for the crankshaft?
I thought you'd have to drop the oil pan and un-bolt the pistons so the crank shaft could be pulled out. :cnfsd:
Looking at the pics in the manual, the oil pump houses the crankshaft seal. and the oil pump casting is one piece that you remove from the lower front part of motor. that sound right?

[bikeregg]

The seals get hard with age and can no longer seal the oil. Each of the seals needed to be pulled in order to measure and then replace. No need to pull the crankshaft to replace the seal. I believe I used a screwdriver or a pointed punch, drove into the seal close to the crankshaft without scoring the crankshaft, and was able to pry it out. I coated the sealing surfaces with grease and used a block of wood as a drift and drove the seal in, working one side then the other until it was completely seated. I was able to use a seal puller for the other 2 seals.

The oil seals I ordered from Amazon were: Oil Seal 20X32X5 R Oil Seal Grease Seal TC | 90029-21007 |EAI Rubber Double Lip w/Garter Spring 20mmx32mmx5mm | 0.787"x1.260"x0.197" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LFR1Z5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (I think this was the oil pump seal, but may have been the cam shaft seal. I was able to get one from RockAuto.com and these other 2 I got from Amazon.)

Oil Seal 38X50X6 R Oil Seal Grease Seal TC | 90311-38025 |EAI Rubber Double Lip w/Garter Spring 38mmx50mmx6mm | 1.496"x1.969"x0.236" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LFG1PWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (This was the crankshaft seal)

When you measure them, it is the bore x diameter x width of the seal. The "R" denotes rubber coated.

[Andywear]

wow, ok thanks :thmbup:

[cusco-awd]

I would try and replace the timing covers with new ones. What happens is over repeated heat cycles and oil on them they warp. They will rub on things and not do there job.

[Andywear]

hooooo, makes sense, I should probably sealed the tore area with RTV sealer or something to keep dirt and junk out of there....