View Full Version : frozen bolt (to adjust alternator belt)
If the bolt for tightening the alternator belt is rusted and immovable, what's to be done to free it up?
Flecker
11-10-2019, 01:22 PM
I got this..........
PB Blaster is the rust fixxer.
HERE! (http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=how+to+loosen+rusty+bolts)
Your welcome! :thmbup:
Thanks for the link. I did use penetrating oil on the bolt (before asking for help here). It's not in a spot where I can get at it with a hammer, and I'm not real comfortable with the idea of using a propane torch inside the engine compartment. The belt has too much play and it's squealing. Not too bad just yet, but still would like to be able to tighten it up.
Flecker
11-10-2019, 02:04 PM
Could be a bad pulley or a loose belt. If it's in fact the alternator belt then yah, it's more than likely just loose. Let the PB blaster sit on it for a good while. It will penetrate in there and break free for you.
It is most assuredly the alternator belt. I sprayed the oil initially and waited about half an hour. No go. Sprayed a bit more and waited an hour. Still nothing. How long is "a good while"?
Flecker
11-10-2019, 02:34 PM
Depends on how bad the rust is.... The bolt with the wing nut or the bolt with the block? The bolt with the block requires you to take the tension off first. The one that is tightened in to the alternator itself.
Well I don't see any wing nut. The top is hexagonal -- is that what you are calling a "block"? I didn't know about loosening a different item first. Not sure if you're referring to another bolt.... but if so, is it the only one that goes "in to the alternator itself"?
Flecker
11-10-2019, 03:31 PM
Take a pic of the bolt... or just point to it...
https://i.imgur.com/cS697bH.jpg
Flecker
11-10-2019, 04:47 PM
ok, thats your power steering belt tensioner. First hose it down with some thread lube, like PB blaster... Next, loosen the pulley bolt enough to ease the tension on the block. Should loosen up after the pb penetrates the threads some.
Beyond that advice, I don't know what else to say... :slap:
I don't know what to say either.... If that's the power steering belt tensioner, where the heck is the thing that needs to be adjusted to tighten the alternator belt? Because that's the only thing I see that looks like an adjuster of some sort in the general vicinity of the alternator.
I apologize for what the rest of you must see as my extreme ignorance of the working of automoblles. Believe me, I would love to leave this stuff to the experts, but it's just not affordable. Adjusting the tension on the alternator belt ought to be do-able, even for a dummy like me. In fact I ought to be able to do MOST of the repairs that my vehicle needs, but if I can only manage the simpler ones, that's a great help. I did manage to put in a rebuilt alternator, and a new water pump, and I did the HOD myself. I'm ignorant, but I can learn!
Flecker
11-10-2019, 05:09 PM
I literally posted a picture of it, post #8.
Don't take this the wrong way, but did you have some head trauma at some point? I've had a couple of concussions... it's all I can think of.
Flecker
11-10-2019, 05:10 PM
Wait. You put the alternator IN, and your struggling to figure out the tensioning for it? :cnfsd:
K, I'm out. This is the exact type of thing that I will get banned again over...
Good luck Suzu.
It was years ago and the only time I've ever done such a thing. If I had to do it again, it would be only a tiny bit easier than if I had never done it.
I literally posted a picture of it, post #8.
Indeed you did, but when I look in the same spot in my van, I don't see the same thing as what's in your photo! Shall I post a photo of what I do see, taken from the same angle as your pic? I only posted the photo above to show the stuck bolt but I can take another pic to show that there's nothing like what your pic shows anywhere near MY alternator.
Don't take this the wrong way, but did you have some head trauma at some point? I've had a couple of concussions... it's all I can think of.
As a small child, I had a scalp wound once. It bled a lot but didn't cause a concussion.
Flecker
11-10-2019, 06:34 PM
I'm really sorry Suzu... I really wanted to make this work between us (your alternator belt). It's not you, it's me.
Maybe one day we can talk about it... but I'm just confused and don't see us working it out anytime soon (YOUR squeeky belt).
Please understand I really wanted it to happen...
Flecker.
Duane
11-10-2019, 07:41 PM
I am a Previa guy - a newby refugee from the Previa Yahoo group that is closing down.
Maybe I can help a Toyota Van brother in need.
just as you are not lost as long as you have gas in your tank, you are not sunk as long as there are wrench flats on the nut or bolt.
lit appears that you do still have a viable head. The various penetrating oils take time to work. Sometimes several days. Avoid just adding torque as you might break the bolt or strip the head.
one way to hasten the removal is with direct hammer blows to the stuck portion of the thread. In this case it is where the bolt threads screw into the cube shaped silver block that serves as a nut of sorts. Applying impact to this place can be accomplished by using an extension bar and a hammer. You can use a 3/8” socket extension that is long enough to reach the cube block and extends high enough to enable you to reach it with a hammer. Hold the extension with vise grips so you will not hit your hand if you miss or I should say when you miss. Use a hammer that weighs 16 ounces or less. A heavy hammer will not travel fast enough to deliver enough shock to the block. Another way to deliver shock waves to the block is to use a rivet gun or even a masonry impact drill with an old broken off bit. The ability to deliver many impacts is important as these shock waves will loosen the hold and allow penetrating oil to penetrate.
Don’t get in a hurry. This can be a daunting job and take a lot of time.
As the owner of an older vehicle that you need to keep running while tight for money, always be on the lookout for bolts and bits and pieces for future repairs.
Since the belt is laying rubber for a while, go ahead and replace it once you get things going your way.
when you have the items disassembled, use a round wire brush to clean the female threads. A gun cleaning wire brush. Also wire brush the male threads. Apply Never-Sieze or a comparable lubricant to the threads when you reassemble.
good luck!
Duane
Thanks so much for the info, Duane. The problem seems to be (as I mentioned in my last reply to Flecker) I'm not finding anything in my van near the alternator that looks like the pic he posted. I have taken another pic of what I do see. Maybe I'm missing something, but I do not see an adjusting mechanism for the alternator belt. Can you see one?
9602
phychotron
11-10-2019, 09:20 PM
First loosen the red bolt with a wrench. Tighten the Blue Wingnut by hand until you get the right tension. Tighten the red bolt.
Note: the photo shows a nut on the back of the alternator, that should not be there. it becomes inaccessible when the water hose is in place. Whoever put that on there is asking for trouble later. Its a solution when your missing the blue wing-nut-bolt and a slightly longer bolt won't hold on its own (as was mine when I first got it).
9601
As for the belt-tensioner to adjust the power steering belt, the pulley slides up and down using that rusty bolt sticking up and down. However the block that it goes to is tightened down to the pulley so it doesn't slide up and down freely. First you have to loosen the pulley before you can adjust it. Same concept as the alternator but with a hex head instead of a wing-nut. The bolt goes thru the pulley, doesn't need to come off. If you try and adjust the tension without loosening the pulley first you'll bend the thing. Sometimes the pulley spins when your trying to loosen it, apply tension to the belt to tighten it up
9603
Liquid wrench works a little better than PBlaster. Sometimes it takes multiple applications over a few days. Its dissolving years of rust.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 09:27 PM
Your missing your wingnut bolt. I found mine in a junk yard. Mine was being held in by the tension of the red bolt alone, stripped alternator made it essential to fix with a longer bolt, it held for awhile but eventually the rest of the threads striped. I used a zip tie to the aluminum block and where the blue wingnut holds. Eventually it gave and i replaced it with two. They held for quite some time until I found the bolt.
Thank you, phychotron (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/member.php?5968-phychotron) .
The upper photo you posted looks like the one Flecker posted, and the lower one looks like the one I posted. But I see a huge difference between the two photos.
The red nut in the lower pic appears to be in a completely different location than the red one in the upper pic. Also, I do not see the alternator in the lower pic! I Do Not See It.
Is there something *removed* from above the alternator in the upper pic? Do I need to remove something before I can SEE my alternator?
Is there a DIFFERENCE between what you are calling the power steering belt and the alternator belt?
The belt that is too slack in my van is the one you can see in the lower photo with the label that reads "PREMIUM TOP (something)" sideways twice.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 09:44 PM
The alternator is below the power steering pump. Its missing in the photo the other person posted. The radiator hose goes over the back red nut normally.
The alternator and power steering both have a different belt. They both connect to the main pulley.
Your missing your wingnut bolt. I found mine in a junk yard. Mine was being held in by the tension of the red bolt alone, stripped alternator made it essential to fix with a longer bolt, it held for awhile but eventually the rest of the threads striped. I used a zip tie to the aluminum block and where the blue wingnut holds. Eventually it gave and i replaced it with two. They held for quite some time until I found the bolt.
I was typing my previous reply while you posted this, so I did not see it before my last post. I don't know what you mean by missing my wing nut bolt. I just have no clue. I can't even see my alternator, the way you can clearly see an alternator in Flecker's photo.
The alternator is below the power steering pump. Its missing in the photo the other person posted. The radiator hose goes over the back red nut normally.
The alternator and power steering both have a different belt. They both connect to the main pulley.
Now I am completely lost. Are you saying that I need to remove the power steering pump before I can see my alternator and adjust its belt? If your answer is yes, then I probably don't need any more guidance. If you say no, then I need help to find the thing that needs to be turned.
I don't know which one is the main pulley. You highlighted a bolt head in red in both photos, but they are in two different locations.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 09:52 PM
No need to remove the power steering pump, you just need to reach your hand down there. You can get to it with tools and its not too hard to remove if needed. I'll try and find a photo of how I fixed mine when I was missing the wing-nut-bolt. You also do not need to remove or mess with the power steering belt either. The alternator belt is completely independent. The power steering belt will need to come off only if you want to replace the alternator belt.
You were posting at the same time that I was editing my previous post.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 10:12 PM
The main pulley is the big one on the engine. The alternator belt it goes around it, the water pump and the alternator. The power steering belt goes around the power steering pump, belt tensioner and down to the main pulley.
Here's how I fixed mine. I first got a longer red bolt because the alternator was stripped from the previous owner. It eventually stripped out the remaining threads from slipping and needing readjustment. Rather than take the radiator hose off and put a longer red bolt with a nut on the end I chose to use zip ties temporarily (I didn't know the blue wing-nut-bolt existed.). I highlighted the zip ties in blue as it replaces the wing-nut-bolt.
9604
I see zip ties but they appear to be black, not blue. Where are the blue ones?
Forgive me, I still don't have a clue about how to tighten my alternator belt. I'm just so tired of trying to understand it all. My mind refuses to function on this level anymore today.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 10:43 PM
Thank you, phychotron (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/member.php?5968-phychotron) .
The belt that is too slack in my van is the one you can see in the lower photo with the label that reads "PREMIUM TOP (something)" sideways twice.
Just read this. That's the power steering belt. Adjust the belt by adjusting the belt tensioner
Loosen red(apply tension to the belt to hold the pulley if needed). Tighten blue (spray a few times daily for few days with penetrating fluid if stuck). Tighten Red.
9603
Also, it looks like you have the wing-nut-bolt on the alternator but its hidden from by a metal hose.
phychotron
11-10-2019, 10:55 PM
I see zip ties but they appear to be black, not blue. Where are the blue ones?
Forgive me, I still don't have a clue about how to tighten my alternator belt. I'm just so tired of trying to understand it all. My mind refuses to function on this level anymore today.
Do you see any blue in the photo? colorblind? I used photoshop to highlight the black zipties blue so it would be easier to understand that they are replacing the wing-nut-bolt. However if you got a better photo of your alternator I think it might be there in your van.
And if its the top belt that your trying to tighten that's not the alternator belt. The alternator belt is hard to see, it tucks back into the engine and to check the tension you'll need to reach your hand down into the engine bay and grab onto it down there.
Do you see any blue in the photo? colorblind? I used photoshop to highlight the black zipties blue so it would be easier to understand that they are replacing the wing-nut-bolt. However if you got a better photo of your alternator I think it might be there in your van.
And if its the top belt that your trying to tighten that's not the alternator belt. The alternator belt is hard to see, it tucks back into the engine and to check the tension you'll need to reach your hand down into the engine bay and grab onto it down there.
I see zero blue highlighting in any of the photos that you have claimed blue highlighting exists in. In two of them I see some purple highlighting but in the last one you posted, only black on the zip ties. I am far from color-blind.
The top belt seems to be too slack. If it's the one doing the squealing, so much the better because I can at least SEE it. I thought it was the alternator belt doing the noise because of when I hear the squealing (it's not when executing turns).
Wish I had known this all early in the day. It was 70 F. here today. Tomorrow and for a while to come it's going to be too damned cold out to mess with the car. Too bad I have to drive 130 miles round trip to the doctor on Wednesday.
JDM VANMAN
11-10-2019, 11:52 PM
Suzu, in Fleckers picture posting number 8 you can see the alternator clearly because his power steering pump has been removed, in your picture posting 9 you’ve taken a picture of the power steeering adjustment bolt... 2 totally different locations. Your picture of the bolt is directly under the radiator cap and the 3 sensors. Looking at your picture posted in number 19 it looks like you don’t even have a alternator in there let alone the wingnut adjustment bolt? I think that’s what your missing??Please don’t take it wrong everyone is trying to help and sometimes it’s easy to get lost in reading and translations.For me... I don’t see the alternator in posting number 19?<br><br>JDM
Flecker
11-10-2019, 11:59 PM
Suzu, in Fleckers picture posting number 8 you can see the alternator clearly because his power steering pump has been removed, in your picture posting 9 you’ve taken a picture of the power steeering adjustment bolt... 2 totally different locations. Your picture of the bolt is directly under the radiator cap and the 3 sensors. Looking at your picture posted in number 19 it looks like you don’t even have a alternator in there let alone the wingnut adjustment bolt? I think that’s what your missing??Please don’t take it wrong everyone is trying to help and sometimes it’s easy to get lost in reading and translations.For me... I don’t see the alternator in posting number 19?JDM
<br><br>The adjuster bolt is there, it's just hidden under the PS hard line. <br><br>https://i.imgur.com/9ihKm7P.jpg
<br><br>
I'm really trying to help, but I think I'm just gonna back away from this one. I'm to snarky and just a complete A-hole with this kind of stuff.
<br><br>Really though, good luck Suzu, hope ya get it.
JDM VANMAN
11-11-2019, 12:06 AM
The adjuster bolt is there, it's just hidden under the PS hard line.
https://i.imgur.com/9ihKm7P.jpg
I'm really trying to help, but I think I'm just gonna back away from this one. I'm to snarky and just a complete A-hole with this kind of stuff.
Really though, good luck Suzu, hope ya get it.
<br><br>Flecker,<br><br>good eye... eyes of experience, thank you for pointing it out!! I still don’t see the alternator, or maybe it’s just the angle of the picture or my cataracts? But in all seriousness I think it’s the angle of the picture so I can’t see it.<br><br>JDM
Flecker,
good eye... eyes of experience, thank you for pointing it out!! I still don’t see the alternator, or maybe it’s just the angle of the picture or my cataracts? But in all seriousness I think it’s the angle of the picture so I can’t see it.
JDM<br><br>I CAN SEE IT! THANK YOU SO MUCH, FLECKER!!! Now, is there something I have to loosen up first, before trying to turn that wing nut?
Flecker
11-11-2019, 12:43 AM
I CAN SEE IT! THANK YOU SO MUCH, FLECKER!!! Now, is there something I have to loosen up first, before trying to turn that wing nut?
<br><br>
I'm almost afraid to respond... <br> Hang on, lemme post a VISUAL.
Flecker
11-11-2019, 12:56 AM
Loosen the bolt highlighted by the RED arrow first. (loosen counterclockwise)<br><br>Then tighten the wingnut highlighted by the GREEN arrow. (twist it to the right)<br><br><font face="Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif">https://i.imgur.com/f4OVpMP.jpg</font><br><br>After your done tighten them up again...<br><br>After al this, when you realize that the belt that is actually squeeling is the Power steering belt, hit up Phycotron's photo and instructions.<br><br><br>
phychotron
11-11-2019, 01:51 AM
When trying to tighten the alternator belt an important thing to remember is to only hand tighten the wing nut. Don't use a tool to tighten it. Wingnuts are used to stop people from over tightening something with a wrench. Chances are if its already tight it won't spin any more. Check the tension on the belt, it should move up and down just a little bit, less than a quarter inch. If its good then its almost certainly the power steering belt.
Sometimes you can tell its the power steering belt and not the alternator belt because it will squeal when you turn the wheels. but not so much when straight.
Sometimes you can tell its the alternator belt because it starts to squeal when you turn lights or radio or anything that uses electrical power.
Since you won't be able to work on it for a few days its a perfect opportunity to spray penetrating fluid on the rusty bolts on the belt tensioner once or twice a day till you can get to it.
As for my graphics; I used blue but I see now how it turned out purple in my pictures. Ignore everything i said about zip ties (though they are highlighted blue/purple, not sure why your not seeing the color if you can see the zip ties)
I fully understand what to do now, thanks to you wonderful folks. Just one question left: In Flecker's latest pic, the bolt with the red arrow *appears* to be directly behind a pulley or something, which would make it impossible to turn with anything other than a crescent wrench unless the object in front of it was first removed. Is that correct? If not, is that thing that must be turned actually *not* behind something that makes it inaccessible to a socket wrench, and it just looks like it is?
JDM VANMAN
11-12-2019, 12:31 PM
If you remove the overflow bottle it’ll create more room, check out this thread a lot of work and detail went into it to help us newbie wrenchers-
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?200-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!
JDM
Flecker
11-12-2019, 12:41 PM
SUZU,
Stop looking at pictures on the internet and go out and look at your van for some perspective. This really isn't a difficult thing. You are mind f^#king this to death...
The pulley you are assuming the bolt is behind is a small one, theres plenty of room there to get a socket or wrench in.
If you remove the overflow bottle it’ll create more room, check out this thread a lot of work and detail went into it to help us newbie wrenchers-
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?200-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!
JDM
Thanks for that link, JDM. In the fourth photo from the top, it appears that the thing-that-must-be-loosened-first is in fact NOT too close behind something else to get a socket wrench in there. That's such a relief!!
SUZU,
Stop looking at pictures on the internet and go out and look at your van for some perspective. This really isn't a difficult thing. You are mind f^#king this to death...
The pulley you are assuming the bolt is behind is a small one, theres plenty of room there to get a socket or wrench in.
It's about 15 degrees out there right now. I'll look at it when I won't freeze my fingers off. Meanwhile, the pics are extremely helpful. The only thing I'm left wondering about is finding the alternator belt to check it for looseness. Psychotron wrote "reach your hand down into the engine bay and grab onto it down there" and to a newbie like me that's a bit befuddling. But I just might have enough brains left to figure it out.
As for my graphics; I used blue but I see now how it turned out purple in my pictures. Ignore everything i said about zip ties (though they are highlighted blue/purple, not sure why your not seeing the color if you can see the zip ties)
I did not see purple on the zip ties the other day. I do see the purple now -- very clearly in fact. Strange!
phychotron
11-12-2019, 01:35 PM
The altnernator belt is attached to the Alternator. In order to reach it you must stick your hand down to the front of the alternator and feel the tension on the belt a few inches away from the alternator.
The alternator belt is attached to the Alternator. In order to reach it you must stick your hand down to the front of the alternator and feel the tension on the belt a few inches away from the alternator.
Perfect! Thank you.
So I postponed my doctor appointment because I was afraid to drive with that belt so loose. I ran out of PB Blaster and went to Bumper-to-Bumper where they used to have a shop in back. I was gonna offer the mechanic $5 to move that bolt for me, because I couldn't do it. They no longer have the shop or any power tools, but the guy behind the counter felt the belt and said he wouldn't drive it until that belt was tightened.
There's another garage nearby so I went over there and the mechanic had a go at the bolt with an impact wrench -- delicately so as not to break the bolt. It would not move. He felt the belt and said it's not that bad, that he wouldn't worry and would feel perfectly fine sending his wife on that 120-mile round-trip (the mileage of my doctor trip).
I guess I just keep trying until it finally moves. Is it possible that it will never move, and the only option will be to break the damned thing?
Flecker
11-13-2019, 09:12 PM
bump... lets get this to 4 pages~
JDM VANMAN
11-13-2019, 10:18 PM
I’m surprised the mechanic wasn’t able to remove that bolt for you, maybe try a different lubricant and let it sit awhile then work it back and forth slowly otherwise it’ll snap the top of the bolt right off.
9606
JDM
phychotron
11-14-2019, 01:01 PM
Your best option right now is to call all the local mechanic shops and ask them "how much to tighten the power steering belt" and they will probably give you a quote or tell you to bring it in. Once they give you a flat rate they'll do whatever it takes to get that belt tight. If they break it they'll be the one's liable to replace it (that's why the guy you asked for a favor didn't try to hard). Sometimes its better to pay a mechanic to take the risk when the repair is questionable like this.
I like to call around the various mechanics around town and ask for a flat rate over the phone-- I don't schedule a visit until I've check a few others for their rates and straight-forwardness.
Did the mechanic loosen the nut on the front of the pulley before trying to loosen the rusty bolt? If not it will bend the bracket when it does spin.
Liquid Wrench brand penetrating fluid works a bit better than the others according to one youtube video by a guy who scientifically tests these sorts of things on his farm. Spray the bolt with penetrating fluid twice a day for a few days in a row for it to work best.
Here's the video of the guy testing penetrating fluids. Blowtorch does a better job than all the fluids tested. A more skilled mechanic would be able to get that bolt out by heating it up first. I would not recommend doing it yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
Flecker
11-14-2019, 01:54 PM
If I were the mechanic he brought it to, I wouldn't be liable for a broken bolt. Hard parts are the cost of doing business for the customer... especially when they get a quote for something over the phone and bring it in to find out it's something completely different than what was described. I, like any mechanic, would take one look at it and explain it may need to be replaced, and not put myself in a position where I am liable for bad parts.
I'll keep spraying and knocking on the bolt for a while. Yes, the mechanic loosened the front nut before trying. If ultimately it has to be busted out of there, what does it take to fix it back to normal? Big job?
Flecker
11-15-2019, 12:12 AM
The bolt isn't a big deal, it can be easily replaced. The block on the other hand might be a bit trickier.
OR, you could just buy this set up... and fit it in to place (may require retrofitting of some type, good mechanic can make it work).
HERE (https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-148-Idler-Pulley-Adjuster/dp/B01N2VLBFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=toyota+idler+pulley+adjuster+b olt&qid=1573794576&sr=8-1)
I looked at that. It makes sense. Looks like if I completely removed the smaller bolt, the other parts would just fall off. Then the whole thing gets replaced, right?
I see at the top of the Amazon page
This does not fit your: 1987 Toyota Van
Flecker
11-15-2019, 11:53 AM
Most things that are getting retrofitted aren't going to fit our vans... If you want drop in parts for this, your going to have to find them in a salvage yard or ebay.
Just take the van to a mechanic already Suzu…… You'll probably be better off going that route
Easier said than done, my friend, when it's almost a choice between driving and eating.
Flecker
11-15-2019, 12:24 PM
Do you have any friends who can help you then? Someone with a decent set of tools and some know how?
If I was closer I would come over with a tool box, drink all your beer, have you make me a sammich and have it all done before you got back with the sammich.
Surely you know someone like that?
:thmbup:
I appreciate the sentiment, Flecker, but I'm afraid you would find that I haven't had any beer in my fridge for almost 20 years. And no, I don't know a soul who would come here and help me fix my car. I did, but he died in 2012.
Flecker
11-15-2019, 01:04 PM
OK. Then here is what your gonna do. Man up!
FIRST, hose the bolt down again with some sort of lube. WD40, PB Blaster, whatever...
Then warm up the engine to operating temp. Get it nice and warm.
Get a 1/2" breaker bar (use a cheater bar if you need) and a 14mm socket. Loosen the pulley nut, enough to let the pulley move freely about an 1/8" off the track.
Next with the engine still warm (the bolt will have some heat on it too hopefully, grab that breaker bar and use a 6 point 14mm socket to loosen that long bolt!
JUST DO IT MAN!!!
BLUE- spray this bolt down, get the top of the block where the bolt goes in.
RED- loosen this bolt
GREEN- use breaker bar and all your might to loosen this bolt! Go back and forth on it to get the bolt to work freely. Continue to spray some lube as you go. YOU GOT THIS!
Heres your visual:
https://i.imgur.com/OHgaVw3.jpg
phychotron
11-15-2019, 01:42 PM
You should consider putting an ad on facebook marketplace, or craigslist, asking for a mechanic to help tighten the belt. Explain the situation and let people in the area consider helping. You already know what needs to be done you just need to connect with someone locally who has the knowledge and toolset to take care of the job. I'm sure it won't be long before a good samaritan comes along and helps for free.
Flecker
11-15-2019, 01:43 PM
YES! PAGE 4!!!!
We made it!!!
:dance2:
whatvan
11-15-2019, 01:47 PM
Easier said than done, my friend, when it's almost a choice between driving and eating.
After following this thread for its entertainment value, I have a suggestion worth considering.
First, while annoying and frustrating, freeing rusty nuts and bolts should be skill set number one for owning any 30yo vehicle. You're learning that now.
Unfortuneately, not everyone knows a mechanic personally enough to have them do side work. let alone finding any mechanic that still wants to work on these hogs. Especially a mechanic that wants to fix our eff ups. They'll do it, but its rarely cheap.
Considering the first two challenges. When it's a choice between eating and fixing your vehicle (so you can get to work, to make the money to eat and fix your vehicle) you may have the wrong vehicle for your situation.
This bolt/belt issue is one I've encountered, and is minor in comparison to the other issues i've had to deal with owning this van. Considering a rusty bolt is causing you this much trouble, it may be a more responsible decision to start considering another vehicle. One mechanics are more willing to work on, with more available parts making everything cheaper in the long run.
I am not a mechanic, I've moved to a place where I know no mechanics personally for side work (but I do try to persuade them with cash and beer), I work at a pizza shop and am not independently wealthy. I feel your pain, but this is merely the tip of the iceberg. Good luck.
I agree completely about getting a newer vehicle. The only way that will be possible will be when I no longer have mortgage payments -- which will be when I am 83 years old. That's about 16.5 years away. Meanwhile, I've got to keep this one going as long as possible because this town does not have taxi or bus service. Besides that, my doctors are 50 miles away, and I have to be able to get to appointments 2-3 times a month.
Within the last few years I've put over $1k into this van. Just got all new tires. The ones I replaced still had 90% of their tread despite being 13 years old and dry rotted. I didn't know about the dry rot until I had two blowouts in one day a month or so ago.
I can almost hear the next response: Get a job, or a better job. I'm lucky enough to have all my limbs, and I'm not blind or deaf, but I am not able to work, outside of my home. I do what I can... it isn't much anymore.
YES! PAGE 4!!!!
We made it!!!
:dance2:
My forum "preferences" are set in such a way that I am seeing two pages, not four.
You should consider putting an ad on facebook marketplace, or craigslist, asking for a mechanic to help tighten the belt. Explain the situation and let people in the area consider helping. You already know what needs to be done you just need to connect with someone locally who has the knowledge and toolset to take care of the job. I'm sure it won't be long before a good samaritan comes along and helps for free.
Nearest place with a Craigslist page is 50 miles. Facebook Marketplace has a page for my area code, which is one of the most thinly populated area codes in the nation. Most of it is the city with the Craigslist page.
I'll think of something though. I'm a survivor, and so is my van! It's been "totalled" three times by insurance companies and still never had a salvage title. (All that stuff happened decades ago.)
Flecker
11-15-2019, 02:38 PM
https://i.imgur.com/HCpV0zv.jpg
OK. Then here is what your gonna do. Man up!
JUST DO IT MAN!!!
I'll give it shot, but I think I'd rather remain female!
Flecker
11-15-2019, 02:43 PM
I'll give it shot, but I think I'd rather remain female!
[/LEFT]
Everything is starting to make sense to me now...
Do you have any grandkids, nephew, or something like that who might be able to take a look? A neighbor?
Everything is starting to make sense to me now...
Do you have any grandkids, nephew, or something like that who might be able to take a look? A neighbor?
No on grandkids. One nephew, no contact since about 1970. I can't even find my brother. I've been a hermit/recluse since moving to this little town. The neighbors have all changed since I moved in, and I don't know any of them now. All my relatives live out of state -- way out. Same with friends, except one, who's not someone I would trust to even drive my car, let alone work on it. But he does have a few tools that I don't have.
Flecker
11-15-2019, 03:24 PM
No on grandkids. One nephew, no contact since about 1970. I can't even find my brother. I've been a hermit/recluse since moving to this little town. The neighbors have all changed since I moved in, and I don't know any of them now. All my relatives live out of state -- way out. Same with friends, except one, who's not someone I would trust to even drive my car, let alone work on it. But he does have a few tools that I don't have.
Well, my recommend at this point is to:
A. Befriend some of the neighbors and see if one of them might be able to help you out. Bake some cookies or something as an incentive!
B. Hit up the local highschool/ community college and see if they have an Auto shop program, sometimes they will use it as "teaching opportunity"
C. I have been another member on a LARGE forum of guys that are really mechanically inclined fellows. They are a gruff bunch, but have big hearts and probably wouldn't mind helping out a nice older lady in a time of need. I can put the word out if ya really need some help with it (which you so clearly kind of need). I have personally driven a 100 miles to help some people... there might be a member close by to you, I could always ask.
Don't be afraid to play the "senior" card! I have always helped out when I can... especially when it's a lone blue hair that needs some plain old help with her car.
If ya don't mind saying, what part of SW Missouri do you live in? Nearest big town or whatever? I can always ask to see who is close by, and might be able to help ya out.
Well, my recommend at this point is to:
A. Befriend some of the neighbors and see if one of them might be able to help you out. Bake some cookies or something as an incentive!
B. Hit up the local highschool/ community college and see if they have an Auto shop program, sometimes they will use it as "teaching opportunity"
C. I have been another member on a LARGE forum of guys that are really mechanically inclined fellows. They are a gruff bunch, but have big hearts and probably wouldn't mind helping out a nice older lady in a time of need. I can put the word out if ya really need some help with it (which you so clearly kind of need). I have personally driven a 100 miles to help some people... there might be a member close by to you, I could always ask.
Don't be afraid to play the "senior" card! I have always helped out when I can... especially when it's a lone blue hair that needs some plain old help with her car.
If ya don't mind saying, what part of SW Missouri do you live in? Nearest big town or whatever? I can always ask to see who is close by, and might be able to help ya out.
Let me try the last solution you posted (with the pic) first. Then I will try your other suggestions. However I should mention that I already went to the house nearest to me on the east side and was turned down flat. There's a single lady on the west who hates me and has been trying for years to get the city to remove my patch of bamboo (I won three times against her in court already.) Another single lady across from the guy who turned me down, and the folks across from the single woman who hates me decided to also hate me based on their friendship with the lady that hates me. That leaves the folks directly south of me, who I've never met. I'm pretty shy, so I doubt I will go over there. Or to the high school. But I'll think about it.
BTW I don't have blue hair. I hope I never do. If someone from your mechanically-inclined friends group wants to help, that would be super. But what are the chances that any of them live close enough to me to actually visit? I am 50 miles from the nearest city with a large population. That would be Springfield, Missouri. I am mostly east and a bit south of there, in Douglas County.
Flecker
11-16-2019, 02:20 AM
https://i.imgur.com/M7u15Zn.gif
VanCo
11-16-2019, 08:38 AM
This all reads like a riddle. Since I'm pretty good at riddles, I'll give it a shot.
Don't use the adjuster bolt at all to tighten the belt.
If you are trying to tighten the belt and the adjuster bolt is frozen, it's easy (loosening the belt is harder). For power steering, you loosen the nut on the front of the pulley, then pry the pulley up (maybe pry on the bottom of the adjuster bolt?) to tighten the belt. Holding tension on what you are using to pry with, tighten the nut that holds the pulley. Same can be done for the alternator. Loosen the bolts that clamp the alternator down, then pry the alternator away from the motor, and tighten the clamping bolts.
The hardest part is the creativity involved in finding suitable pry points and pry devices. You can use fancy tools, a broom handle, I've used actual sticks to tighten belts before.
This post is to be used as a solution to the riddle only.
Flecker
11-16-2019, 01:22 PM
OK SUZU.
I put the bat signal out on the other forum for ya... might be someone close by out that way to give you a hand. Ya may need to buy them a donut or something though... maybe a pack of mothers oatmeal cookies. :)
Flecker
11-16-2019, 03:22 PM
Just another thought..... maybe try the local firehouse? Those guys are pretty cool. If they will pull a kitten out of a tree, they might be willing to help tighten your belt.
:yes:
Extra points if you film them using the jaws of life on the stuck bolt~
Thanks for the additional posts and ideas. Unfortunately, this little bitty town does not have a "firehouse" as such; it has volunteers who come out when needed to fight a fire.
Still struggling with the power steering belt adjuster bolt, and meanwhile thought I'd go ahead and at least get the alternator belt tightened up. Oddly, when I went to remove the antifreeze reservoir, it would not budge. I used to be able to take it out with one hand.... On close examination it appears the metal clip has somehow embedded itself into the plastic. I've stuck a flat head screwdriver between the metal and plastic and have been working it loose but the corners will NOT come loose. It's almost like they're welded together or something!
Have you ever seen such a thing? What could have caused this? How to get it off of there? I need the space to get a socket wrench down in there.
I also noticed -- again oddly -- there's a perfect round hole a little smaller than a dime in the back of the reservoir on the side that touches the clip. Is that supposed to be there? Seems like it would allow antifreeze to splash out.
Disregard previous post. I got the thing off. The hole isn't in the plastic it's in the metal.... Anyhow the alternator belt was VERY loose, I could almost turn it 180 degrees. The bolt on the front of the alternator was already loose and doesn't seem to want to tighten back up. It's holding, for now. I suppose it will be alright.
Flecker
11-19-2019, 05:27 PM
yay
yay
Except the alternator belt is frayed. Just on one edge. I assume that means pulleys are out of alignment. I'm about to give up on this project!
Looking back over the photos earlier in this thread, it appears that the bolt I loosened today -- which was already loose (seems like that would be a problem in itself) -- is the wrong one. It's on the front of a small pulley in front of the alternator and not where the red-highlighted bolt is in the pics. I probably ought to have re-checked the photos first. But I *was* able to turn the wing nut (holding one of the wings with vice grips, which I probably would not have needed if I had first loosened the correct bolt). The bolt on the front of the small pulley won't tighten up, it just spins and spins.
If there are misaligned pulleys, I assume that is the cause of the alternator belt fraying only on one edge (the front). I don't know if the belt is in danger of busting or something due one edge being frayed. The rubber seems to be in good shape it's just the cloth backing that's a bit ragged looking. And, not knowing which pulleys need to be aligned, nor how to align them, apparently I am doomed to a few days of hunting for these details in previous topics. Hope the weather stays reasonable until I find the right info!
Could I have opinions from some of you experienced folk on this one question: With an alternator belt that is just a bit frayed on one edge (the backing only, not the rubber), is the vehicle good to drive without much risk of the belt going bad all of a sudden? I mean, for all I know, once a belt starts to fray, it's going to be useless in very short order. Or it could last for thousands of miles. I did tighten it and stopped the squealing. If I thought I could get it changed in one day, I would do it, but with the possibility of pulleys being out of alignment (as a cause of the fraying on one edge only) and not having a clue as to how to remedy that situation, it could end up taking me a lot longer, and it wouldn't make sense to replace the belt without fixing the cause of the uneven wear at the same time. Right?
ETA: I just learned from talking to an auto parts guy that the alternator bolt being stripped ciould be the cause of the fraying and that it would need to have a "helicoil" procedure done. Also that I should look for burrs on the pulley. Assuming this to be good info. Do y'all agree?
Flecker
11-20-2019, 12:23 PM
Could I have opinions from some of you experienced folk on this one question: With an alternator belt that is just a bit frayed on one edge (the backing only, not the rubber), is the vehicle good to drive without much risk of the belt going bad all of a sudden? I mean, for all I know, once a belt starts to fray, it's going to be useless in very short order. Or it could last for thousands of miles. I did tighten it and stopped the squealing. If I thought I could get it changed in one day, I would do it, but with the possibility of pulleys being out of alignment (as a cause of the fraying on one edge only) and not having a clue as to how to remedy that situation, it could end up taking me a lot longer, and it wouldn't make sense to replace the belt without fixing the cause of the uneven wear at the same time. Right?
I would at the very least keep an extra belt on hand... If there's a belt that is going to leave you stranded, that's the one. Takes out the cooling system AND the electrical integrity of the van.
Personally, I would just change it and be done. My spidey sense tells me your not going to be able to swap it out without help of some sort...
It's time to collect all your cans and bottles and take it to a shop.
I would at the very least keep an extra belt on hand... If there's a belt that is going to leave you stranded, that's the one. Takes out the cooling system AND the electrical integrity of the van.
Personally, I would just change it and be done. My spidey sense tells me your not going to be able to swap it out without help of some sort...
It's time to collect all your cans and bottles and take it to a shop.
Hey thanks Dude! While you were posting the above, I was editing my last post. Check the last part of it and lemme know what ya think?
Flecker
11-20-2019, 12:43 PM
ETA: I just learned from talking to an auto parts guy that the alternator bolt being stripped ciould be the cause of the fraying and that it would need to have a "helicoil" procedure done. Also that I should look for burrs on the pulley. Assuming this to be good info. Do y'all agree?
Well... that pulley bolt being stripped is a problem. And a helicoil is going to be beyond your skill set in my opinion. gonna require some precise drilling, tapping/ threading and a removal of the alternator.
As for the pulley itself, my recommend is to replace it If it's all burred up.
Time to just realize your in a pickle and maybe a bit over your head with this repair.
Do you happen to know the correct part number for the alt. belt? Or at least whether or not it's a "serpentine" belt?
And if it's a pulley needing to be replaced, which pulley?
Flecker
11-20-2019, 01:09 PM
Do you happen to know the correct part number for the alt. belt? Or at least whether or not it's a "serpentine" belt?
Serpentine belt (https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K050323-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2SISC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=serpentine+belt&qid=1574273270&s=automotive&sr=1-6&vehicle=1987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-4&vehicleName=1987+Toyota+Van) <-------------
I just talked to the parts store again and they say they can't get the pulley. (I still don't know which pulley it would be. Or more than one?) So if there's a burr, or some burrs, can't they just be filed away? I don't hear any rattling when the engine runs. Doesn't that mean it's not a bearing in a pulley?
Serpentine belt (https://www.amazon.com/Gates-K050323-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2SISC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=serpentine+belt&qid=1574273270&s=automotive&sr=1-6&vehicle=1987-76-942-995--49-8-8-4776-1893-9-1-1996-191-4&vehicleName=1987+Toyota+Van) <-------------
That's the one. I can't get a pulley, apparently.
Flecker
11-20-2019, 01:24 PM
ugh... first off the alternator pulley is held on by a NUT, not a BOLT.
I have no idea how it would get stripped. That's pretty tough to do without some chain vice grips and a big ass breaker bar.
Second, your in way over your skill set here... your going to make it worse, because you don't know what your doing.
Third, by the time you just take it to a mechanic and be done with it... you'll prolly be money up.
Fourth, youv'e been given all the information in the world on this matter. You just aren't going to get it without someone standing by your side to explain it as they go and you watching them do it. Maybe the mechanic you take it to will show some mercy and walk you back in the shop for a tutorial...
Good luck lady. :wave2:
ugh... first off the alternator pulley is held on by a NUT, not a BOLT.
Whatever.
I have no idea how it would get stripped. That's pretty tough to do without some chain vice grips and a big ass breaker bar.
What's tough to do?
Burntboot
11-20-2019, 02:30 PM
Suzu - Its truly not clear what you are trying to say and lacking proper terminology isn't helping.
I cannot tell what is stripped, if you undid the pinch bolt before turning the wing nut, what pulley you are talking about (power steering idler?)
1) Do you have a manual?
If you are adamant about doing your own repairs, you will need it, it will explain SO much.
2) Do you have a camera?
Seeing exactly what "you" are looking at may clarify matters significantly, words can only do so much.
For example, the belt in question, your idea of frayed might be completely different from mine, but a picture would eliminate all the guessing
Suzu - Its truly not clear what you are trying to say and lacking proper terminology isn't helping.
I cannot tell what is stripped, if you undid the pinch bolt before turning the wing nut, what pulley you are talking about (power steering idler?)
1) Do you have a manual?
If you are adamant about doing your own repairs, you will need it, it will explain SO much.
2) Do you have a camera?
Seeing exactly what "you" are looking at may clarify matters significantly, words can only do so much.
For example, the belt in question, your idea of frayed might be completely different from mine, but a picture would eliminate all the guessing
I have a manual but it seems to assume a lot of pre-existing knowledge. I look for how to do X and find that it says "do Y and Z first" while saying zilch about how Y and/or Z are done.
I do have a camera and will take a pic of the alt. belt in a bit and post it.
Apparently I confused the "pinch bolt" with the one on the front of a small pulley that's right in front of the alternator. Nevertheless I was still able to tighten the wing nut (with some difficulty). Then when I went to re-tighten the bolt (or nut or whatever) that I had loosened just prior to moving the wing nut, it would not tighten back up. In fact I had found it already somewhat loose when I went to loosen it. I mentioned this to an auto parts guy, who told me that the apparently stripped bolt could be the cause of the belt fraying.
Does that help. Burntboot?
Burntboot
11-20-2019, 09:02 PM
The nut that you loosened sounds like its for the power steering pump idler pulley.
It has nothing to do with the alternator.
For now, lets consider that a separate issue
Burntboot
11-20-2019, 09:04 PM
Manuals are designed to be used by mechanics, so there is a certain "expectation of competency".
The nut that you loosened sounds like its for the power steering pump idler pulley.
It has nothing to do with the alternator.
Whatever it is, the alternator belt wraps around it, so I would say that it has something to do with the alternator. If I am wrong, I'm glad to hear about it.
Flecker
11-20-2019, 11:08 PM
Whatever it is, the alternator belt wraps around it, so I would say that it has something to do with the alternator. If I am wrong, I'm glad to hear about it.
A picture would REALLY help here...
A picture would REALLY help here...
Yeah... I really don't feel like going out in the cold rain and wind to snap the pic right now. I will do it a.s.a.p. though.
I went out and took five pics of it from different angles. When I went to upload the pics from the camera, they had not been saved. I'll try again.
Sorry this took so long! The flash on the camera failed almost every time. Out of fifteen tries, these are the only decent ones I could get.
9655
9656
Now I suppose someone's going to tell me "That's not the alternator belt". LOL! That would mean I ordered the wrong part.
Flecker
11-21-2019, 02:14 PM
Now I suppose someone's going to tell me "That's not the alternator belt". LOL! That would mean I ordered the wrong part.
That's the alternator belt, and the alternator pulley.
Who stripped the pulley bolt?
That's the alternator belt, and the alternator pulley.
Who stripped the pulley bolt?
I don't know. Plenty of people have worked on this car in the 33 years I've owned it. I know for sure it wasn't me. (p.s. I haven't always been as broke as I am now)
Is the belt "too frayed" to be safe?
Flecker
11-21-2019, 03:08 PM
Without being there to see it for myself... I can't know.
Since you know how to tighten/ loosen it now, why not just err on the side of caution and change it?
I ended up going to a repair shop. Here's what happened:
There was nothing stripped; the pulley was turning along with my wrench, apparently, and that's why I couldn't tighten the item (nut or bolt, I am now PERMANENTLY confused on that score). The pulley itself had an inward bend in it. I hadn't seen it before because it was not showing when I looked, it must have been on the bottom. But it could clearly be seen with the engine running. The mechanic said it must have been hit by a rock.
So I now have a new belt, and a pulley with a spot that was banged out by the mechanic so that it will no longer eat up the belt. If he made a mistake, I'll know soon enough. He had no trouble removing the bolt for the power steering belt adjustment. Maybe I wouldn't have had trouble with it if I had tried it again since the last time I sprayed it and banged on the nut.
I learned what I did not know before this visit to the mechanic: that the alternator pulley is PART OF the alternator.
Bottom line: I am another $140 in debt. Even before this expense there was already going to be no Thanksgiving or Christmas, and now there will be very little heat this winter. It's either that, or don't pay my property tax bill. I think I'd rather keep the house and be cold for the winter. At least I will be able to stay dry.
The really bad news is that my oil pan gasket needs replacing, and they tell me it's a big job, 3-4 hours' worth of big. Makes me wish I still lived where you could rent bays with lifts and do your own work.
Flecker
11-21-2019, 08:33 PM
:crickets:
Burntboot
11-22-2019, 10:31 AM
Glad you got it fixed.
$140 in debt is never good, but having your ride usable = priceless
As for your oil pan, I would want to verify that is your leak.
The pan is does not have a "gasket" per say, it's installed with "form in place gasket".
The pan is only there to hold oil, there is no oil pressure exerted on that joint.
Also the static oil level is BELOW the pan flange (gasket surface) so all the more reason it rarely leaks from that spot.
Far more likely is a leak higher up, that just make it LOOK like the pan is leaking.
A can of engine shampoo (and a garden hose) will go a long way to helping you find what is exactly leaking.
30 years of seepage can look pretty nasty.
Rust can cause pans to leak but generally presents in a different manner
(wet oil spots underneath dry flaking rust)
The other part of the equation is how much is it leaking?
Oil leaks should NOT be ignored, but they do need to be evaluated to know wether it is urgent or can wait for better weather.
As for doing the pan, several threads already exist
-I did mine without a lift, so I imagine you could too.
As for your oil pan, I would want to verify that is your leak.
<snip>
The other part of the equation is how much is it leaking?
Oil leaks should NOT be ignored, but they do need to be evaluated to know wether it is urgent or can wait for better weather.
I changed the oil in springtime of this year and had not checked it since. I don't drive very much, and this van doesn't "burn" oil. A month or so ago the dashboard oil warning light came on, so I checked and it was a quart low. I added a quart and checked underneath the car. There's oil all around the oil pan and especially on the side closest to the driver's seat. You're right, I should make sure of where the leak is. I just figured that on a car this old, the oil pan not-a-gasket is a likely culprit. The oil has gone down by 1/4 quart since I added oil. That's after driving well under 1k miles, maybe not even 500. (I don't log the dates and miles of everything I do to/with this van, and my memory is not what it used to be.) And oil is getting expensive!
For the first 8 years that I owned the van, it lost half a quart of oil every 2,500 miles. Then one fine day my mechanic had it on a lift and happened to notice oil where it shouldn't be. This mechanic -- a Toyota freak working out of his own two-car garage which he had turned into the CLEANEST AND NEATEST auto shop you have ever seen (almost immaculate, and every bit as organized as an Auto Zone store) -- said it probably had come from the factory that way, because of where the leak was. And after he tightened that bolt, it never lost oil between oil changes, until now.
A can of engine shampoo (and a garden hose) will go a long way to helping you find what is exactly leaking.
30 years of seepage can look pretty nasty.
Is it really okay to shower the entire engine with a hose?
Flecker
11-22-2019, 11:44 AM
Is it really okay to shower the entire engine with a hose?
So long as you don't get any water in the blinker fluid reservoir, and cover the flux capacitor you'll be fine...
Get some simple green and a paint brush and have at it.
:dance2:
So long as you don't get any water in the blinker fluid reservoir, and cover the flux capacitor you'll be fine...
Get some simple green and a paint brush and have at it.
I don't know what your motivation is with a post like this. I don't mind being belittled or whatever, but I really do lack the sort of smarts needed to understand such things. (not the mechanical stuff, but the snide remarks)
originalkwyjibo
11-22-2019, 05:32 PM
Suzu, if it's leaking while sitting still it could be the oil level sensor seal. This item is mounted to the driver side of the oil pan and is below the oil level(This is the part that turns on oil level light on the dash)meaning it could drip oil anytime whether running, driving, or sitting still. One of my vans is currently leaking here and it has gotten everywhere from the wind while driving. You definitely want to start with some cleaning to find the source. Maybe try cleaning from the top of the oil pan down to see of the leak is coming from above before spending a lot of time in the cold scrubbing down everything under the "hood".
Flecker
11-22-2019, 05:32 PM
I don't know what your motivation is with a post like this. I don't mind being belittled or whatever, but I really do lack the sort of smarts needed to understand such things. (not the mechanical stuff, but the snide remarks)
It means, use simple green and a paint brush to clean the engine/ bay up and then hose it off....
Spray down the engine with simple green (or whatever your choice of degreaser is), then take the 1-1/2, 2" paint brush and use that to clean with. Work the degreaser in to help loosen up the grime and whatnot on the engine. Then use some water to clean off the muck.
After that it should be easier to spot any leaks.
Not to hard, really.
Also, I know what it is to live in cold conditions... our daytime high lately is 40*, night time low of 10*. I typically get used to it as winter goes on. I have 8" of snow on the ground right now. I get it...
The other thing you could do is hit the carwash and use the nozzle to spray off the underside, maybe pay a kid a fiver to see if he can do it.
originalkwyjibo
11-22-2019, 05:41 PM
Flecker, somehow I doubt the Simple Green part of your comment is the part she's having trouble with. Maybe it's time to walk away from this one before you get banned again......
K, I'm out. This is the exact type of thing that I will get banned again over...
Suzu, if it's leaking while sitting still it could be the oil level sensor seal. This item is mounted to the driver side of the oil pan and is below the oil level(This is the part that turns on oil level light on the dash)meaning it could drip oil anytime whether running, driving, or sitting still. One of my vans is currently leaking here and it has gotten everywhere from the wind while driving. You definitely want to start with some cleaning to find the source. Maybe try cleaning from the top of the oil pan down to see of the leak is coming from above before spending a lot of time in the cold scrubbing down everything under the "hood".
Thanks o! I don't see oil on the driveway. I think we have a few more days of 50+ weather coming up. That's good for me. I can get overheated when it's 60 out if I do enough.
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