motor & transmission mounts

[Harbilly]

There is confusion at the parts house. Does anyone know if motor/transmission mounts (toyota calls them front and rear?) are the same 4WD=2WD or if any truck or other units fit? All the rubber is gone from one of mine and the manual tranny flops up and down.
I've got some thumping if I work the gas on and off, shift hard etc. I need to look at some other stuff like the front dif mounts too as I get a noise (like the front drive shaft U clipping body member) if I drive with hubs locked - not there if actually in 4WD or if the hubs are unlocked. It is triggered by uneven road and bumps. I can change the pitch and loudness of the noise if not in 4WD and I start to pull on and then release the 4WD selector.
Any and all hints, tips or finger pointing will be greatly appreciated!!!
Cheers, and Happy New Year!

[Harbilly]

Just looked. The front drive shaft is really close to a control arm (?) and has worn through the rubber around the radiator line (?) heater line (?) rad cooler line(?) but doesn't seem to have touched the metal pipe. This sounds like the missing rubber in the tranny mount, or something, is letting the drive train sag.
Sure does.

[timsrv]

There are different transmission mount configurations depending on year and what transmission you have. The part that breaks is almost always the engine mount on the driver's side. This is because the engine torque tends to pull it apart where-as the one on the passenger side gets pushed together. Toyota calls the engine mounts front insulators. The right and left sides are interchangeable. For 2nd generation vans (4y) these are Toyota part #12361-71020 (3y vans use a different part number and there are some possible exceptions on 86 vans).

If I remember right all the 4wd's only have the one transmission mount and that usually doesn't break. It's mounted on top in the middle. It's got a metal loop with rubber inside. The transmission basically hangs from this mount via a bolt that goes right through the middle. It is pretty much just there for vertical support (won't prevent rocking if you have a broken motor mount). Sometimes on removal the center support bolt gets stuck in the metal sleeve and can be a real PITA to remove, but other than that I've never had problems with these. The photo below was taken from the EPC for an 87 automatic 4wd. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/transmissionmountauto4wd.jpg

[Harbilly]

Thanks Tim. I know I broke a new shock once that led to this noise before so I'll check those and the mounts. There has to be a reason for a sagging drive train. at least putting it in 4wd, for now, gets rid of the noise.

[Harbilly]

Driver's motor mount was replaced 6 weeks ago. I'll look again to see if it is broken again. The mount was aftermarket so I just ordered one from Titus-Will in Seattle. And I'll check the driver's shock. I'm thinking the missing rubber from the transmission mount is letting the whole drive train sag but maybe it's something else. Really my mechanic will do all this. I don't tackle drive train stuff. I suppose we had better look at the front axle/peanut mounts and stops while we are at it.
I wonder if the replacement shocks were too wimpy and letting stuff sag?
Lots of variables but a competent mechanic should be able to raise the drive train now that I know that is the problem.
I wish I was a competent mechanic. I DID do the fuel injectors and lots of other stuff so I'm not a complete buffoon!!

[Harbilly]

The torsion bar is maybe twisted. That let's the van sag I think. Next week we'll see if anything else is going on.

[Harbilly]

okay. the front left axle was chattering at the hub when the hubs were locked and the road rough. In 4WD it was okay if I was on the gas. The spacer that goes with the clip and keeps the axle in place was missing. Ooops. The ride height had to be lowered as the front drive shaft was hanging up as well (hence a thump changing gears and an 'unloading' thump sometimes at stops when I moved the gearshift.
All fixed now.:yes:

I wish I could say I did it but I didn't. I don't do drive train. My mechanic did it.
God bless him.

And Tim.

[gushaman]

I know that the 2wd and 4wd have different trans mounts for sure, i guess because of the different tailshaft housings. i also remember it wasnt too difficult to change out the motor mounts.

[timsrv]

I just pulled an engine from an 88 5 speed 4wd this weekend. See picture below:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Van%20projects/IMG_0682.jpg

This is very, very common. Every van I've ever pulled an engine from has this condition. Even the used replacement engine (supposedly less than 80k miles) arrived with the driver's mount broken. Tim

[timsrv]

Since the Toyota mounts always seem to be broken I decided to save some $$$ and try out aftermarket. I ordered the Beck/Arnley #104-1332 but it looks like I ended up with genuine Toyota. Check out the Toyota part number molded into the rubber. :)>:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/IMG_1387.jpg

[RawbSpear]

how easy is it to install the drivers side motor mount? what is the process? are 2wd mounts the same as 4wd? ROck auto does not see to have a distinction for 2wd/4wd

[timsrv]

I've never actually replaced one on a van with the engine installed.........I have on other cars though. The van is a bit tight in this area due to the alternator and the cross-member. Basically you'll need to take all the bolts out, then jack the engine until it's high enough for the old mount to slip out & the new to slip in. You might want to have a good vocabulary of swear words ready before you start :LOL2:.

[RawbSpear]

yah, i have done this on my old volvo. i pretty much used all my vocabulary on that on. I think i may have sworn in a few languages...

[Burntboot]

Rawb - This is easier to do than it looks.
Pull the over flow tank and the alternator, undo the big nut with the weight of the engine on it and leave the nut on a few turns.
Use your scissor jack with a block of wood on the oil pan flange, a 2x4 on end fits nicely between the sway bar and the crossmember.

Once you have the weight of the engine supported on the jack, loosen the upper bracket mounting bolts (4) and remove the mount to frame bolts, then lift the engine until it is clear, pull the upper bracket bolts and remove it as an assembly.
Install the new mount onto the bracket, leave the big nut loose enough to articulate the two, it eases getting it back in.
Oh, I had to lift the engine some more in order to get the new mount in.
Install the "new" assembly, put all the bolts (6) in but leave them loose a couple of turns and drop the engine back down.
It will likely all line up beautifully without any grief.
Bolt everything back up and torque the big nut before reinstalling the alternator.
When you do the right side, you have to pull the fuel filter out of the way, then it is very easy.
It is worth doing both sides, while it is the LS mount that separates, they both get compressed.

Mine were over 5/16in shorter than the new ones and I have a lot more clearance in all the right places now.

BB

[RawbSpear]

are the mounts on the 2wd and 4wd the same? I dont see any differentiation in any of the parts catalogs

[timsrv]

For 2nd generation vans (4y) these are Toyota part #12361-71020 (3y vans use a different part number and there are some possible exceptions on 86 vans).

For aftermarket there's Anchor #9029 & Beck Arnley #1041332

[RawbSpear]

oh, thanks! Missed that

[Speach]

I have done a lot of maintenance work to my van this year. After installing new motor mounts the van and steering wheel shake worse than before. Any recommendations?

[Speach]

Fixed the problem. One was moved sideways

[NickP]

Hi!

I've got an 87 4x4 (5-speed) and when I accelerate hard from a dead stop I get a strong rumble/vibration under the driver's seat. Feels like the valve cover vibrating against the underside of driver side access hatch. I'm thinking it's the left motor mount but was wondering if there might be something else I should check before replacing. Thanks!

[Burntboot]

U-joints can cause weird vibrations when they start to seize up but usually you'll feel that through the floor "from behind" not "underneath".

Engine mounts are a pretty safe bet at this point, given the location/sensation, not too mention being 28yrs old.
I doubt you would be disappointed if you replaced them.
Don't forget to check the rear mount (trans) while you're in there.
BB

[NickP]

Thanks BB! I decided to go for broke and replace them last night. I managed the get the left side done and the old mount was completely separated and compressed about a 1/2" compared to the replacement. All-in-all, not as difficult as I expected but it required a fair amount of contorting around the driveshaft. I was definitely cursing the fact that I have 4x4. I will tackle the right side tonight.

[Kyle]

Anyone know where to find a replacement rear 4WD mount? or just the round rubber part (insulator? bushing?) for the mount? Mine's pretty cracked. I ordered what rock auto sells as a rear mount without checking mine out first (like a dolt) and it's a rectangular thing that must be for RWD's.

I'm trying to glean the part number from the diagram Tim posted, but can't quite figure it out.
12321?
12371?

Y'all think I could find some other Toyota bushing that would squeeze in there if I saw the old rubber out?
Just guessing here. :?:

[timsrv]

That post I made was showing the EPC page for an 87 4wd automatic. Others may also use that mount. It's Toyota #12303-54010. Tim

[Maxisback]

Searching these threads for the rubber part ,Jus like Tim said above , mines tearin up on the way out . I cant seam to find a picture of it associated with the part number , 87 4wd 5spd .

[Kyle]

Searching these threads for the rubber part ,Jus like Tim said above , mines tearin up on the way out . I cant seam to find a picture of it associated with the part number , 87 4wd 5spd .

Yeah I know what you mean, the picture is often different and seems to show a big steel bracket (which doesn't look like the bracket the mount hangs from under the van either). That's the part number though. It's stamped on my old one. I "ordered" one from a toyota parts dealer that supposedly has one, but I expect to hear back soon that it's actually out of stock

Frustratingly, a lot of Chinese manufacturers advertise that they can make exactly that part (with a picture), but there's a minimum order to make it worth it.

Here the minimum is only 10. Y'all wanna pool up and all go in on a batch of tranny mounts? :LOL2:
http://www.suspensioncontrolarm.com/sale-8031324-12303-54010-japan-toyota-car-accessories-engine-mounts-12303-54010-liteace-hiace-engine.html

The older these vans get, we might have to get more parts this way!

[Tan Van]

It says the minimum order is ten ?? if so, how much will it be per-piece ?? if reasonable I'll get in on the first order--

[timsrv]

I may also take 2 or 3 if the price is right.

[Kyle]

I sent an email to ask about the price. I'll post here if they get back to me.

[Maxisback]

Arghhyhhhh , my tranny is out , sitting on the ground , and I cant find that rear mount anywhere , anybody might have one used? I live on top a mountain and winter is here lol , already lost work over this .

[MyToy]

Will be ready to re-install the trusty 4Y back into my 86 LE. I forgot that when it was removed we found this transmission mount that I could not find anywhere. None of my docks nor TVT has any threads on this.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a part number or parts outlet that may have this?

Thank you

[VanCo]

I wasn't able to locate a replacement for mine either. I bought a similar round shapped motor mount from some front wheel drive. AutoZone let me go back and open boxes until I found one that would work. I the cut the old mount off the trans mounting bracket, and welded the new mount on. I went slow to make sure I didn't burn the rubber in the new mount. That's been going strong for 10 years.

[MyToy]

Thanks for the comeback. Wow, couldn't find it huh?

So are you saying you cut off the donut and the steel that surround it and welded on the replacement to the same mount?

Were you are all concerned that the elevation of the back of the transmission was not in line with the meat ball?

[VanCo]

I just found this on eBay:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F12 2571705306

But the pics aren't quite right?

Yeah, I cut the round part off and welded the new round part on. When I made mine, I made sure the dimensions were right for the replacement so everything was aligned. I spent a long while opening motor mounts at AutoZone until I found the right one. I should have made note of the part number, but I didn't.

Someone else might have more information regarding this. I made one because it was easier than searching and waiting.

[MyToy]

Yea, I see what you mean. I did find this but again I am not sure of the dims.

I may inquire to see if the dims are available then compare it to the old one.

Crap, I thought this would be a no brainer.

Bummer

MT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0XE2D6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

[nikifix]

Will be ready to re-install the trusty 4Y back into my 86 LE. I forgot that when it was removed we found this transmission mount that I could not find anywhere. None of my docks nor TVT has any threads on this.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a part number or parts outlet that may have this?

Thank you
https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/westar/em5749/

[Maxisback]

I just went through all this , if you can find my thread on it , somebody in canada sent me a link for a new one , I finaly found a good used one , meanwhile I have a partsvan sitting in a farmers feild that has one , but I cant get to it .

[MyToy]

Thanks for the link nikifix but this ones mounting bolts look very wide to fit the stock mount. But thanks for the help for sure.

Max, thanks for the the thought on the used one. No worries, the one I have is not really bad, the rubber is cracked in three places but it has no problem holding up the trans. Just that now that the engine is almost done and the transmission is out is the time to change this puppy. I noticed before the engine came out that when I drive the van in over riding conditions all is well however when I accelerate, like to pass another car, I hear this low frequency hum from under the middle of the van. I thought maybe it is a muffler issue. But when I dropped the trans I saw this and thought maybe this is the problem.
When I had a new LE back in 86 I don't remember this low hum noise.

So that is why I am pushing for a new one. So you have a thread from some guy in Canada huh?
Man I tore appart TVT on google search and could not find much on this. I will look more and maybe I can find it. Will keep you posted. At least I know I am not the only one:LOL2:

Thanks again to all.

MT

[MyToy]

I may have found the OEM for this part. They are researching my vin and will respond some time this week.
Will keep you posted.

MT

[pinkgrips236]

I've also been hunting for a replacement. I wound up visiting my local rubber company and had them fit a new piece of rubber to the old mount. Next, I'll drill out the rubber, fit the metal sleeve for the bolt on the inside, and hopefully be good to go.

I'm considering putting a few more holes in around the central bolt hole to provide a bit more give, almost like creating spokes.

7627

[MyToy]

Hey, this is really good. I did find an outfit in Australia that may can build this but it is a real challenge

Can you make any more? For sure willing to pay for it.

I am still getting some hum and vibration at 55mph. I can through the van in neutral at 55 and the hum is still there. So it is happening after the transmission and not with motor mounts. Both the motor mounts and the drive shaft have been replaced.
Thanks for the heads up.

MT

[SoORYotas]

To All,

Maxisback is correct about a post that included a company in Quebec that had the mount and at a reasonable price too. I just spent my coffee hour ripping up the TVT search and cannot find the reference point. Further looked through my notes on envelopes as I am sure I wrote this down but still no joy. I need one more cup of coffee but I am going to sign off here and search a few other places. I will get back if I find the reference.

SoORYotas

[SoORYotas]

Really - right in front of us the whole time and the price is now half according to the ad. Reference post #6 in this thread for the site nikifix found in Canada (thewrenchmonkey.ca). Part looks correct and measures out after some rough measuring underneath my van with the mount in place. The center hole for the thru bolt looks a little off center so . . . No guarantees but I will probably order one just to put in stock for future needs.

Cheers

[MyToy]

It is suppose to be off center. Here is a side pic with the mount out and some rough dimensions

MT

[VanCo]

Just an observation regarding the orientation of these mounts. I have a 1987 LE 4x4 5 speed. My mount looks like MyToy's, where the rubber mount puck faces away from the body mounting holes.

pinkgrips236's pick in post 10 appears to have the mounting puck facing the body mounting bolts. Just like the links in the previous posts.

I have never seen a replacement for the style in my van (MyToy's as well), I have seen replacements for the other style (links above).

[pinkgrips236]

Totally weird. It does seem odd that the larger circular opening on my mount faces the short side of the plate. I'll have to double check and confirm that I didn't mix up parts by mistake.

The place I took it to is a rubber fabrication place and charged me $30, which was definitely preferable to the 100+ getting a full new mount from CA or NZ.

Thanks for the actual measurements. When I put the final center hole in, I'll be sure to move it a bit off center.

[VanCo]

I just confirmed that there are two different mount styles.

1987 LE 4x4 5 speed:

7645

1987 Cargo 2wd auto:

7646

[outlawmws]

I MAY have found a replacement mount for the rear "engine" (Auto transmission) mount: I thought I might need one, before closer inspection showed I was OK...

If you look at the "vehicles" under TownAce, It seems to be a match. As well as under the OE Numbers Tab, (this is lower on the page)

https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=715939

And it includes what may be crossover part numbers?



OE Numbers


Owner
Part Number


TOYOTA (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=715939)
12303-54010 (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=715939)


TOYOTA (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=374664)
12303-54040 (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=374664)


TOYOTA (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=485541)
12303-54041 (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=485541)


TOYOTA (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=815829)
12303-64020 (https://www.fitinpart.sg/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=815829)

[Hammervan]

My '88 4wd MT has the first of the two mounts shown in VanCo's post (flat base plate with bolts on the sides). The Febest TM-101 Rear Engine Mount 12303-54040/41 looks identical but is only specified for the HiAce and not our van. I took a chance and ordered it and I am pleased to report that it is totally identical and fits great. It was only $25 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/FEBEST-TM-101-Rear-Engine-Mount/dp/B00R981O7E) but I see they are sold out now. It was easy swap, just unbolt it, lower the transmission on a jack, and slide it out toward the back.

[Hammervan]

I also replaced my motor mounts at the same time. I used DEA / MARMON A7229, which were identical to the Beck/Arnley ones Tim shows earlier in this thread (made in Taiwan, Toyota part number molded in the rubber.) Only $12 on RockAuto. Passenger side still looked OK but driver's side mount was sheared off and compressed like the one in Tim's photo, so the engine was only held in place by the metal brackets resting on one another.
Swapping out the mounts was easy. But removing everything that was in the way to get them out was a total PITA!
On the passenger side, the mount straddles the oil dipstick tube so you can't just slide it out. I had to unbolt the fuel filter as Burntboot mentions, but I also had to unbolt the A/C compressor to get enough clearance.
On the drivers side, BB was correct again, the overflow tank (easy) and alternator need to come out. Unfortunately my 4WD van has the rigid power steering line blocking egress for the alternator, which required removing the fan shroud (and hence passenger seat and service panel, which luckily I have gotten very proficient at.) I wonder if it would just be easier to remove the front driveshaft in this case? At least this gave me the opportunity to note that the insulation on my alternator harness has completely disintegrated and I just have bare wires that have somehow not shorted out or broken.

[timsrv]

Thank you for the info. Regarding the Febest TM-101, did Amazon nail you for shipping? I see they have these on eBay, but the shipping is more than the part. If Amazon shipping was free (or at least reasonable) I'll wait for them to come back in stock. If your end cost was over $50, I'll probably just pay the ridiculous shipping and get one off of eBay. Tim

[Hammervan]

Shipping was free with Prime, so it was a bargain compared to the other listings. :dance2: Hopefully it comes back in stock. I could see them keeping limited inventory of these in the U.S. if only HiAce owners are buying them!

[seebop]

Hey all,

Apologies for bumping an old thread. I have a 1988 4x4 Hiace LH66V 2L diesel with a bad transmission mount. Toyota tells me the correct part number is 12303-54010, which is no longer available anywhere.

Does anyone know if the Febest TM-101 would fit in my case? It looks very similar but my part number isn't on their cross reference list. However on the fitinpart.sg link posted above for 54010, the 54040 and 54041 versions which ARE listed by Febest as compatible, are listed as OE replacements :dizzy:

11592
11593
11594

[RIvan]

I also just went down the rabbit hole trying to find that rear mount for my 1987 4wd auto. As posted above the part I was looking for was...12303-54010

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/transmissionmountauto4wd.jpg

per the information in previous posts on this thread I found this westar part still available in canada but for over $100 (CAD but still). https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/westar/em5749/

Also found several places where I could get the Febest Rear Engine Mount Febest TM-101 Oem 12303-54041 for a lot cheaper. https://shop.febest.eu/rear-engine-mount-tm-101.html

A HUGE thanks to those who posted these alternatives because I had spent hours searching for options. I'll post again once its installed to again confirm still the right part.

[seebop]

I can confirm, the Febest TM-101 fit just fine on my 88 4x4 5spd which also calls for 12303-54010

[RIvan]

Excellent, thanks for posting! Now I just need to occupy myself while I wait for the part to arrive from Estonia...

[seebop]

Well, barely a year and 4000km since the Febest TM-101 was installed and it looks like it's busted already :doh:

12232

[outlawmws]

That's disappointing.

[timsrv]

How would you know from that view? I got out my Febest mount to double check this and I'm not convinced yours is broken. The Febest mount is only vulcanized at the 2 - 3 o'clock and then at the 9 - 10 o'clock positions. The rubber material has no attachment/bond at the bottom of the circle. Yes, my new mount does have rubber touching the bottom of the circle, but it's not bonded/attached. It appears to me that yours may only be flexed due to the load (could be normal). Are you experiencing banging or shifting under acceleration? Tim

[seebop]

Hmm I hope you're right. I've been hearing a clunk sometimes when releasing the clutch shifting from first to second and second to third when going up steeper hills.
I was going off the best side view photo (https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/images/400/cab8db7d6092ae429ea7b07f66f070f00293d393.jpg) of the mount I could find online where it looks like the bottom part is attached, but you're saying it's meant to separate under the weight?
I'll try and get a better photo of mine later.

[seebop]

Ok I think you're right. Here's a better pic

12235

[Ian R.]

I replaced the front motor mounts this weekend on a 1988 LE 5spd 4x4 using WESTAR PN EM9029 from Rock Auto. They had the Toyota PN stamped on the insulator the same as Tim posted in post #10.

For me it was a three hour job. For the passenger side motor mount I had to carefully disconnect the top banjo fitting from the fuel filter. Be sure to use counter force by placing a 19 mm open wrench on the built in bolt of the fuel filter (it is just below the banjo fitting). you don’t want to spin the fuel filter and kink the fuel line. Next disconnect the fuel filter bracket and moved the fuel filter and bracket assembly out of the way. I also disconnected the starter connector and two other electrical plugs to make the working space easier. I placed a 2x4 running perpendicular to the motor just in front of the bell housing (not on the oil pan) and jack it up slightly (just enough weight the jack). Unbolted the four bolts (14mm) from the engine block and the two from the frame (14mm). Once free, I jacked the motor up about an inch. It was a little tricky navigating the old mount out and the new one in as a single unit. But the bolts lined up well with a little help from a drift pin. A lot of tight spaces and slow wrench work for the win.

The driver side was easier. Had to remove the radiator overflow and alternator. I used the same jacking

[Ian R.]

I forgot to mention removing the support bracket that is attached to the bottom on the intake manifold down to the engine block (it also holds the ground wire) and the support bracket that attaches to the back of the power steering pump down to the motor mount.