Upgrading the alternator

[Harbilly]

Will the spare alt I have for my 2wd fit my 4wd?86 2wd/89wdFor that matter, I guess I want to know if the 4wd alt is different from the 2wd one of the same years before I go to the parts store I don't trust much and try to buy one for my 894WD!!Thanks a million,

[llamavan]

Yes, they are the same for ALL Vanwagons, 2WD, 4WD, 3Y, 4Y.

Gwen

[Harbilly]

Thanks Gwen!!!!I saw the Christmas tree lights twice yesterday and can 'hear' the alternator as well. My 4wd alt keeps unbolting itself and I keep tightening it back in. Might explain why I can hear the bearing!In any case with 350,000 km seeing the Christmas dash is only to be expected!Cheers,Bill

[Harbilly]

Gwen:You called it perfectly in your PM. Bad battery stressing alt and after hours of driving the alt started flaking. The bearing in the alt also is noisy so that's gotta be yanked too but battery is the real problem. It explains why the Christmas lights don't come back during daily driving. The alt bearing is likely due to the bolts having come loose before and the thing bouncing and flopping during use. In my experience bearings don't like that sort of thing!!Let's hope the repaired harness (years ago) is okay and everything stays fixed!My mechanic is doing all this for me so I'm being lazy, sadly I am in a real hurry here. I can do this kind of work easily but I'm sure glad I have a fellow who will take on this stuff when needed. While he is there I asked him to do a tune up (also the work I can do) and the ball joints and torsion bar bushings (work I won't do myself) And to service the hubs (work I sometimes do myself) so I expect to be poor for 4 months but have a reliable van. I even told him to take an hour and poke around looking fir problems. I have some suspicions about the U-joints and some other stuff. The van isn't called 'Rusty the troubled 4wd' for nothing'. In any case, I need to drive 1400km every weekend so fixed the van must be and fixed by Thursday!!!I bet his bill is 2-4 times the resale value of the van. I guess I truly must drive Rusty forever!!Bill

[ARP]

when you pick up your (rebuilt) alternator at the shop take the upper bolt along and make sure the threads in the hole aren't stripped.

With my alternator disaster in St. Mary MT (Glacier Park) in August the one I got from a CarQuest shop - two days later in a town 80 miles to the East (Cut Bank) - was stripped out. I just cranked the bottom one as hard as possible and it held 'till I got home. I then just got a longer bolt, lockwasher and nut and took care of it that way.

Guess I learned to carry a spare the hard way:cry:

[User1]

I'm really not hip on what's a 3y engine and what's a 4y engine. I think I read somewhere that I have a 3y engine? Any ways what does a 84 Toyota Van have? I need to start collecting a few parts that may fail me somewhere down the line.

[llamavan]

In the US and Canada:

1984-85 = 3Y engine (AKA "1st generation" vans)

1986-1989 = 4Y engine (AKA "2nd generation" vans)

Gwen

[timsrv]

84-85 vans had the 3y 2.0 Liter engine. 86-89 got the 4y 2.2 liter. They are pretty much the same engine, just different displacements. The 4y is a bit more peppy. Tim

[User1]

OK it looks like my engine has gotten updated. Thank you with that! Much appreciated.

I'm over here looking around and I really want to stay away from Chinese stuff. Anyone have a preference on alternators? Looks there's also a 70 amp alternator available? Any idea on who the manufacturer is for the dealer supplied alternators?

[timsrv]

I think the Denso rebuilds are the best (Denso also rebuilds alternators). I was going through at least 1 per year with the "lifetime" rebuilds you find at the discount auto stores. Since I switched to the Denso #210-0272 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=14&partnum=2100272) I haven't had any problems at all. That was about 3 years ago. Tim

[User1]

I guess the Densos is what the dealer is carrying? Not a big deal on some alternators that have an advertised 60 amps and others advertising 70 amps? Both can be cheap Chinese junk?

[timsrv]

60A is more than enough. Heat is an important factor to consider with these (more heat = shorter life). Heat is directly proportional to amp output, so a higher output alternator has the potential to burn out quicker under some extreme situations. However, in this case it's only a difference of 10A so wouldn't make much difference. There's a guy on eBay that sells these Denso alternators that have been "souped up" to crank out 130A or so. If you actually ran one at max output it would likely burn itself out in under 10 minutes.

I got one of those for testing and it actually did put out the advertised amps. It was only held there for about a minute before it started smoking. That prompted us to end the test. When we took it off the machine it was so hot it couldn't be handled with bare hands :lol:.

[RawbSpear]

here are links to upgrade alternators. our are supplied with 70 amp stock. I know going up to 120 is no issue, direct fit, but the alternator guy i asked was not sure about the 170 amp. High Output Amperage Heavy Duty Nippodenso Alternators for Toyota Trucks (http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.php), ALTERNATORS (http://www.mean-green.com/ALTERNATORS.html)

[timsrv]

I put a Delco-Remy CS-144 250A alternator in my van. I use it to power my 2000w inverter and my welder. It's pretty amazing what this thing can power up. I was running my 120v air compressor off it the other day and it totally kicks ass! My inverter draws 140A (about 1800w) when my air compressor kicks in. Here are some pictures of the unit and the mount bracket I fabricated. BTW, the stock belt was too small so I moved up to a Gates #K050330 (http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K050330-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2SITG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422757070&sr=8-1&keywords=Gates+%23K050330&pebp=1422757076141&peasin=B000C2SITG). So far I'm very happy with the set-up. Tim


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Alternator1.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Alternator2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/altbracket.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2201.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2202.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2203.jpg

[RawbSpear]

250 amp, nice....wow. lotta power!

i will say that the option i posted is direct fit, no mods.

[timsrv]

250 amp, nice....wow. lotta power!

i will say that the option i posted is direct fit, no mods.

If you go higher than 80A you will at the very least need to upgrade the wire size from the alternator to the battery & the ground wire from the battery to the chassis & engine block. I went with 2/0 wire. Here's a picture of the ground cable I fabricated (sitting next to the original) :wnk:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2393.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2394.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2396.jpg

[djshimon]

That alternator is a beautiful thing!-why didn't Mr.Toyota think of a 250amp alternator?! Is there two electric plug-ins on it in case you need to swap wires for some reason? You didn't put any shield over it to protect from the (inevitable) power steering drip? Don't mind (me) the peanut gallery.

[timsrv]

You didn't put any shield over it to protect from the (inevitable) power steering drip?

Ah, but that's the beauty of this alternator........No vents around the periphery :wnk:. It vents from front to rear so there's no place for PS fluid to enter. You could say it's got it's own built in shield. Anyhow, I'd rather just keep on top of leaks, then no shield is required. Tim

[RawbSpear]

...ok, yes you will have to upgrade the wire. no custom mounting brackets though.

[coronan]

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112916

Sounds Familiar.

[timsrv]

If you're eating Denso's then CS-144 is the way to go :yes:. Tim

[highwind]

...ok, yes you will have to upgrade the wire. no custom mounting brackets though.


is it possible to install this 250amp alternator with the engine in?

[timsrv]

Sure, at least in a 2wd. I just did it with the engine out because the engine was already out. With the PDF file I provided (page 1 of this thread) you can have the bracket pre-fabricated, then it's just a bolt-in application. I'm sure it can also be done in a 4wd, but you might need to drop the front drive shaft and install from underneath. You will also need to modify the wires and get a longer belt (info provided on page 1). Tim

[highwind]

Super stoked about this. I believe its a 140amp Delco Remy. going to get a bracket made tomorrow


Im hoping I dont need to convert my wiring

[timsrv]

Keep in mind the vans wiring is only capable of ~70A. Alternator output will depend on demand, and most of the time it will be under 50A. However.........in the event of a short circuit or otherwise high demand, the alternator will be capable of about 2X the max capacity of the circuit. The result could be melted fusible links and/or wire. It's highly recommended you upgrade the cable and put some sort of fusible link/breaker in the circuit that will open if the amperage exceeds the rated capacity of the cable. Tim

[highwind]

Keep in mind the vans wiring is only capable of ~70A. Alternator output will depend on demand, and most of the time it will be under 50A. However.........in the event of a short circuit or otherwise high demand, the alternator will be capable of about 2X the max capacity of the circuit. The result could be melted fusible links and/or wire. It's highly recommended you upgrade the cable and put some sort of fusible link/breaker in the circuit that will open if the amperage exceeds the rated capacity of the cable. Tim

what did you end up doing for the alternator plug?



Found this though

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partno461804.aspx

[timsrv]

Yes, that should work. If you don't want to spend that much $$$ on the adapter harness you can cut the wires on the van harness and wire them to one of THESE (https://www.ebay.com/itm/112170277721?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=112170277721&targetid=1068323854030&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033612&poi=&campaignid=11614425326&mkgroupid=114834329962&rlsatarget=pla-1068323854030&abcId=9300456&merchantid=108725432&gclid=CjwKCAiAsaOBBhA4EiwAo0_AnHsDLWk7RcVekeuMBgqM UQ4tMjhlGrFOHUMMI670OLDaVJaupfllYRoCTr0QAvD_BwE).

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a23/timsrv/(edited)_(edited)_(edited)_CS144_harness.jpg

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/.highres/alt_diagram_zps907cbf7d.jpg


Yellow "L" wire on the van harness goes to the Brn/Red "L" wire on the CS harness
Blk/Yel "IG" wire on the van harness goes to the Brn "F" wire on the CS connector
White "S" wire on the van harness goes to the Red "S" wire on the CS connector

Don't worry about the Wht "P" wire on the CS connector. It's my understanding that wire is used to signal tachometers on diesel engines and is not used on gasoline engines.

From what I understand the CS alternator can also be made to operate with a single wire (see pics below). This is known as the "one wire GM mod". Other than the big output wire, you simply take the Black/Yel "IG" wire from the van harness and hook it to the CS-144 "L" terminal. This should excite the field on the CS and it should put out ~ 14.5V.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/alt_diagram_zps907cbf7d_1.jpg

If you look closely at the female plug on the CS-144 alternator you will see letter designations for terminal positions.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_1051_zps64ef2da4.jpg

This picture shows this position on the CS-144 connector. Put the black/yellow "IG" wire from the van harness here.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Hooptie-alt-GM-plug_zpse280a7d9.png

[highwind]

Basically where I'm at right now. I think it's a 140amp

[Bevo1kanobe]

Hey Tim. Can you post a link of where you purchased your alternator. I followed the link for the power bastards alternator and it does not fit. I see your alt has only 2 mounting posts like the original. Mine has 3.

[timsrv]

I got mine from alternatorparts.com: https://alternatorparts.com/alternator-powered-welder.html. I got the 250A version. The offset on the alternator mount was incorrect, so I fabbed my own mount (see page 1 this thread) I posted a PDF of a dimensional sketch so it can be duplicated. Also, the alternator came with a v-belt pulley, so I had to ask alternatorparts.com for a serpentine pulley (which they sent to me at no extra charge). Tim

[Bevo1kanobe]

I got mine from alternatorparts.com: https://alternatorparts.com/alternator-powered-welder.html. I got the 250A version. The offset on the alternator mount was incorrect, so I fabbed my own mount (see page 1 this thread) I posted a PDF of a dimensional sketch so it can be duplicated. Also, the alternator came with a v-belt pulley, so I had to ask alternatorparts.com for a serpentine pulley (which they sent to me at no extra charge). Tim thanks for the reply. So in the link you shared. I see different amp ratings. You got the 250 . So it is the most expensive one they offer. So I'm assuming any one of these will fit because they all share same housing? Or do you have to tell them to supply the correct housing?

[timsrv]

If you're planning on welding, then one of those in my link might be a good choice. If you're not planning on welding, then you won't need to spend that much money. If you simply want a tough alternator with no special features, then you can save by purchasing a std cs-144 from anywhere (even a salvage yard). The most common housing for cs-144 (180º mounts) is the one that works for us, but there are others.........so if you're ordering without pics, be sure to specify you want the housing with the mounts 180º apart. Here's what pops-up when you do an eBay search: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xcs144+ alternator.TRS0&_nkw=cs144+alternator&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=cs144+alternator+180+mounts&LH_TitleDesc=0 (most of these will work).

As far as saving money goes, even if you're welding, you can still get a std salvage yard cs-144, then replace the diodes with the non-avalanche type, then you can cut the wire to the internal regulator and bring both sides of it out of the case (this is what you use to switch the welder on/off).

When I purchased mine from alternatorparts.com, I did so out of convenience and I liked the idea of the 2nd external diode block. In hind sight, I would probably not do that again. These are tough alternators, and even without that external diode block I doubt I'd burn it out. The other thing is the output post. That external diode block makes the alternator a bit more vulnerable and requires the output post to be extended. With 250A I need to run some mega monster cable and it needs to be very tight. The extended stud is definitely the weak link. If/when it breaks or becomes an issue, I'm going to remove that 2nd diode block and go back to using only the one inside the case. Tim

PS: You can also weld with 140A, I just wanted overkill so that's why I went with 250A.

[Bevo1kanobe]

If you're planning on welding, then one of those in my link might be a good choice. If you're not planning on welding, then you won't need to spend that much money. If you simply want a tough alternator with no special features, then you can save by purchasing a std cs-144 from anywhere (even a salvage yard). The most common housing for cs-144 (180º mounts) is the one that works for us, but there are others.........so if you're ordering without pics, be sure to specify you want the housing with the mounts 180º apart. Here's what pops-up when you do an eBay search: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xcs144+ alternator.TRS0&_nkw=cs144+alternator&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=cs144+alternator+180+mounts&LH_TitleDesc=0 (most of these will work).

As far as saving money goes, even if you're welding, you can still get a std salvage yard cs-144, then replace the diodes with the non-avalanche type, then you can cut the wire to the internal regulator and bring both sides of it out of the case (this is what you use to switch the welder on/off).

When I purchased mine from alternatorparts.com, I did so out of convenience and I liked the idea of the 2nd external diode block. In hind sight, I would probably not do that again. These are tough alternators, and even without that external diode block I doubt I'd burn it out. The other thing is the output post. That external diode block makes the alternator a bit more vulnerable and requires the output post to be extended. With 250A I need to run some mega monster cable and it needs to be very tight. The extended stud is definitely the weak link. If/when it breaks or becomes an issue, I'm going to remove that 2nd diode block and go back to using only the one inside the case. Tim

PS: You can also weld with 140A, I just wanted overkill so that's why I went with 250A. I'm Not welding. But I will be running a sound system. That's the only reason for upgrade. I will be running about 2600 watts true.rms. so yes a 250 is perfect. I also will be using 0/2 welding cable for my power and ground. Also doing big three upgrade. This includes stock ground wire alternator to battery and alternator to chasis. All 0/2 welding wire. So I purchased the alternator from the link provided. Please delete this link. ASAP. It cost me $350. That powerbastards alternator will NOT fit. Instead of that link please replace with the info you provided me please. If that was done in the first place I wouldn't be out money and half a day trying to get that sucker in. LoL. I actually got it in finally. But can't use tensioner for alternator. So it sits squished against the motor block in place with the bottom bracket only. I used the original belt by taking off the pulley while installed to bottom (custom bracket) following your PDF link for alternator bracket. . It works but then after turning the car on for about 10 min ,it started squeeling. Guess I need to use the tensioner. But I can't because the housing on this alternator is huge and bulky. So the bracket can't even be used. You actually have to remove it to fit this Alternator. So I will remove it tomorrow and order your exact one. As long as it fits just like yours did. Would have helped knowing that I needed a 180° housing. I don't think that information was mentioned in thread. Please add info. Very helpful. Critical. Oh also correct me if I'm wrong but did you have to flip your alternator tensioner bracket for your upgraded alternator install. Looks to me like you did? Thanks Tim. I'm glad for this group I will be donating asap . Well as soon as I fix my van. Daily driver kids school groceries etc. Need to fix by 2 weeks

[timsrv]

I would like to know where this link you are mentioning is located. If I'm made aware of anything misleading I will take appropriate action to correct it. Please PM me a link to that post and I'll address it.

I did not flip my tensioner bracket. I did however bend it slightly in a vice to line-up with the new alternator. I got rid of the old tensioner parts and simply put a bolt and washer through the bracket slot into the alternator. Instead of using the adjustment screw (old way) I use a pry-bar then tighten the bolt when tension is correct. Tim

[Bevo1kanobe]

I put a Delco-Remy CS-144 250A alternator in my van. I use it to power my 2000w inverter and my welder. It's pretty amazing what this thing can power up. I was running my 120v air compressor off it the other day and it totally kicks ass! My inverter draws 140A (about 1800w) when my air compressor kicks in. Here are some pictures of the unit and the mount bracket I fabricated. BTW, the stock belt was too small so I moved up to a Gates #K050330 (http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K050330-Multi-V-Groove-Belt/dp/B000C2SITG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422757070&sr=8-1&keywords=Gates+%23K050330&pebp=1422757076141&peasin=B000C2SITG). So far I'm very happy with the set-up. Tim


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Alternator1.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/Alternator2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/altbracket.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2201.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2202.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2203.jpg
Did you have to upgrade the fusible link wire when doing the alternator upgrade? Or do you just connect the new higher rating fuse directly in place of the fusible link? If so, does it matter the fuse rating? I mean how high can I go for fuse rating?

[timsrv]

Did you have to upgrade the fusible link wire when doing the alternator upgrade? Or do you just connect the new higher rating fuse directly in place of the fusible link? If so, does it matter the fuse rating? I mean how high can I go for fuse rating?

Yes, you will need to upgrade the cable (both positive and negative) and also the fusible link. I would recommend leaving the old fusible links intact because they are still necessary to distribute power to the van's electrical system. However, I would only hook-up the new heavier cable between the battery and the alternator (just eliminate the section of old cable that was used between the alternator and the plus box). Then, for any heavy loads, power these up directly from the battery using appropriately sized cables and fuses. If you want these devices to be switched by ignition, use an appropriately sized continuous duty solenoid and use an ignition circuit to trigger the coil.

Regarding wire size and fuses between alternator and battery, what you need to will depend on the output of the alternator. If the alternator is a 140A unit, then you will need 2 GA and it should be fused for 150A. If you're using a 250A unit then you will need 2/0 GA and it should be fused for 275A. If your alternator has a different output, just make sure the wire is capable of handling a sustained max output and use a fuse slightly above max rating of alternator but less than max capacity of wire. If you think you will be operating close to max ratings, I would recommend slow blow fuses. Here's some links to the products I would recommend:


https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Insulating/dp/B000K2K7TW/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1501724233&sr=8-10&keywords=an+fuse+block

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5133-300A/dp/B000XBERSC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000MMDLFM&pd_rd_r=TJZBFW4W4N0MYCRNHGRH&pd_rd_w=LRyHm&pd_rd_wg=2EqV3&refRID=TJZBFW4W4N0MYCRNHGRH&th=1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mersen-Ferraz-Shawmut-275A-Time-Delay-Blade-Limiter-Fuse-80VAC-DC-CNL275-/382071751813?epid=1011778534&hash=item58f5404485:g:aZUAAOSwcgNZC7LJ

There are other ways of fusing, and some are superior, but the above is adequate and affordable. Regarding hook-ups, be sure you use high quality welding cable (copper) and use the proper tools to crimp on the eyes. If you don't have a large crimping tool, Chinese hydraulic crimpers can be found on Amazon for ~$75. I have purchased a couple sets of these and have been very impressed with their performance and quality of crimps. Tim

[AnotherUser]

Is there a recommended alternator for a standard replacement?

I am looking around an seeing ones like the "Ultima 70 Amp Alternator - Remanufactured (R111410A)" from O’Reilly Auto Parts for around $160 without core.

Seems like I have read in the past about staying away from certain alternators

[timsrv]

Summit claims to have the Denso rebuilds for $113.99 with free shipping. They will add a $30 core charge, but that's still cheaper:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-210-0272?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAws7uBRAkEiwAMlbZjtPDDQE0PxzxsgPtvGyE XjmrTwEtEJQMNNCP7X6250CWHrcnm2hWUhoCaIoQAvD_BwE

Because Denso discontinued these, and knowing Summit will usually just have the manufacturer drop ship, I suspect they will flake after they take your money and try to substitute something else. Good luck! Tim

[AnotherUser]

Summit claims to have the Denso rebuilds for $113.99 with free shipping

How important do you think it is to have Denso over other brands?

RockAuto has the following listed (1986):

ACDELCO 3341694 {#19134687} Professional; Remanufactured; 70 Amp $87

PURE ENERGY 14682 Remanufactured $92

POWER SELECT 14679N {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers $115

[timsrv]

This has been discussed a few times already, but I'll explain again. The design of our original alternator is not the greatest. However, Denso, a Japanese company, builds these to exacting specifications and the quality of internal parts and workmanship is top notch. Due to that they perform well and tend to last ~100 - 150K miles. When they fail many of these original alternators become cores for companies that remanufacture alternators. They repair/rebuild them and sell as "remanufactured" units. When Denso does it the end product rivals the quality of a new alternator and will generally last as long as the original one did. When other companies do it they may or may not use quality parts and/or workmanship (more profit margin to use cheap parts and labor). Due to this, it's not uncommon to see inexpensive "remanufactured" units only last 10 - 20K miles.

Of course not all remanufacturers are the same. Some are going to be better than others. It's my guess that the cheap ones won't hold-up well but the more expensive ones will likely last a bit longer. Which ones are the best? I don't know (only time will tell). Here's a thread with more information:

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?335-Alternator-woes

[Jdelgado]

Summit claims to have the Denso rebuilds for $113.99 with free shipping. They will add a $30 core charge, but that's still cheaper:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-210-0272?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAws7uBRAkEiwAMlbZjtPDDQE0PxzxsgPtvGyE XjmrTwEtEJQMNNCP7X6250CWHrcnm2hWUhoCaIoQAvD_BwE

Because Denso discontinued these, and knowing Summit will usually just have the manufacturer drop ship, I suspect they will flake after they take your money and try to substitute something else. Good luck! Tim

I had one on order for over half year and cancelled it. They said they were waiting for cores. I know a guy who used to work for Denso and still has contacts. We called the other day and were told They are NLA and won’t be produced again. Fortunately if you look hard enough on the internet you can find a Denso one. After the ones on amazon we’re swooped up I looked for days til I found some and ordered a few.

[Flecker]

Best with the denso is to just rebuild it... theres a few videos on it.

[boogieman]

PS: You can also weld with 140A, I just wanted overkill so that's why I went with 250A.


can you elaborate on your welding set up? ive seen people rig up a second alternator, which seems safer than one thats still powering the van..very curious as we get further out in the boonies...id imagine some sort of bulkhead fittings and a switch for full field..?

[timsrv]

If you research the web you can find information on how to build your own. I just took a short-cut and installed a Mobi-Arc unit. Here's a video on the unit I have: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1F9dcs-eGw

[tlight]

Yes- that's the same conclusion I'd come to... in all my research, I found no indication as to which method is preferable, other than one obscure reference on ebay to the one wire hook up aging the alternator faster.

For me personally, it's a moot point now- I went through two CS144s supposedly new from Amazon, only to have both damaged in shipping. Turns out GM doesn't make that model any more, and I was dealing with counterfeit junk, which explains why they didn't care much how they packaged them.

Via a tacoma forum, I found a Denso model, 210-0461, from early 2000's Suzukis that has an identical housing as ours and puts out 105 volts. Just have to swap the pulley. I will be putting it in this week. I'll let you know how it goes...

Thanks again Tim...

[timsrv]

That's awesome information! Thank you. In checking that part number you gave (Denso 210-0461) I found these are plentiful, inexpensive and used on several different vehicles. I don't know how they compare in design to the van alternator, but they look similar enough I think the same rule of Denso quality VS the other remanufacturers would still hold true. The ones I found on the internet looked like they use the same pulley. Could you elaborate on the pulley issue and also confirm the off-set/mounting is identical?

Regarding the wire harness, I did a search and found a "plug & play" adapter:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162854292971?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162854292971&targetid=1068323857830&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033612&poi=&campaignid=11612431641&mkgroupid=112841759973&rlsatarget=pla-1068323857830&abcId=9300456&merchantid=113602854&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1KiBBhCcARIsAPWqoSqKzLdEYICj2pk-YGiJE9a2ZQoAikkgG0-BodNGWJ00NIP0P-l50tcaAlRqEALw_wcB

In case you wanted to modify the van harness, I also found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Regulator-Harness-Infiniti-Mitsubishi/dp/B082YX926X/ref=asc_df_B082YX926X/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459665449369&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10798219564314860508&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033612&hvtargid=pla-944115387481&psc=1

Here's the pin lay-out (I labeled the bottom left image):

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a23/timsrv/(edited)_New_Denso_Alt_Harness(1).JPG

Labels are identical to the Denso van alternator schematic on post #27, so you can simply match them up by function. Tim

[tlight]

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It came in today, and yes, except for the pulley, they are indeed identical. The Van pulley is a 4 rib, the Suzuki is a 3 rib and about 1/8" narrower. All other measurements are the same.

I suppose a guy could swap the belt and just run a bit narrow on the fan, but I think I'll just swap the pulleys...

I'm using the pigtail from Amazon and just cutting and splicing...

And to give credit where credit is due- here is the Tacoma Link where I discovered it...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-105-amp-bolt-in-alternator.630459/

[boogieman]

well i wouldnt say identical, the suzuki alt looks beefy! and after all this time a tacoma alternator would fit with a harness adapter as well? ill also ad that a 85 to 89 mitsubishi eclipse has the same alternator as our vans as well..

[pigneguy]

Thanks Gwen!!!!I saw the Christmas tree lights twice yesterday and can 'hear' the alternator as well. My 4wd alt keeps unbolting itself and I keep tightening it back in. Might explain why I can hear the bearing!In any case with 350,000 km seeing the Christmas dash is only to be expected!Cheers,Bill


where is the alternator located ?

[timsrv]

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?200-Change-your-alternator-ILLUSTRATED!

[pigneguy]

thanks Tim

[VanNoob]

Did this Suzuki denso alternator work? Just curious the outcome or if anyone managed to get it fit on the van.

[Gareth]

Via a tacoma forum, I found a Denso model, 210-0461, from early 2000's Suzukis that has an identical housing as ours and puts out 105 volts. Just have to swap the pulley. I will be putting it in this week. I'll let you know how it goes...



Did this Suzuki denso alternator work? Just curious the outcome or if anyone managed to get it fit on the van.

Following up on this as well. Since Denso 210-0461 seems unattainable at the moment, I went with a Bosch AL4507X which is supposed to be the same fitment.

But my AL4507X housing looks exactly like the AL214X alternator in my van already. Unlike tlight's photo where the Denso (is it a Denso?) looks bigger.

Where I ran into problems is the pulley. The "Suzuki" alternator has a 17mm shaft, but the "Toyota" alternator has a 15mm shaft, which means you can't put the Toyota pulley on the Suzuki alternator. I'll have to look at the pulleys again to see if a 3 rib belt would line up correctly and run straight.

At least I grabbed an extra pulley at the junkyard (which was way too expensive, I think I could have gotten a new one for the same price, but they cut me a deal on my other parts, so I guess it works out), so I might see if I can get it machined to a 17mm opening.

01 Suzuki Grand Vitara, 02-04 Suzuki XL-7


DENSO 210-0461
MPA: 13982
Wilson: 90-29-5601
USA Industries: A2982
Bosch: AL4507X
Lester: 13982
ACDelco: 3342590
NAPA Mileage Plus: 13-9589
BBB Industries: 13982
Beck/Arnley: 1861115
Suzuki: 31400-52D00
Visteon: 13982
Remy: 12378
NAPA Mileage Plus: 13982
Precision Parts Remanufacturing: SKA108
DENSO Auto Parts: 102211-2400
USA Industries: A2795
DNS: A13982
NAPA Mileage Plus: 213-9589
Suzuki: 31400-85D00


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[Jan-Willem]

I have not finished installing it, but i had the exact same issue, I got a Wai 13982n alternator. I also could not find a denso from a source I trusted. The Wai alternator was local and cheap.
For me also the toyota pulley did not fit,I bought a new pulley, but it did not fit either, so I gave up, and took it to a local alternator/starter repair shop.
(Don’t know why, but these shops are everywhere over here. All (almost) retired men that fix electrical motors and alternators in their sheds)
The guy had two boxes with old pulleys for me to fit. I found one, that I thought fit perfectly, but the repair guy did not agree. He showed me, you should set both alternators on a flat surface, with the pulley down. Then compare or measure the distance from the mounting to the flat surface. If it is exactly equal, the belt will line up.
The guy put the pulley I found, on a lathe, and corrected it for me.
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Looking at the pictures, it looks to me like the rotating inner part is half an inch longer, it is longer at the backside of the mount.

[Gareth]

He showed me, you should set both alternators on a flat surface, with the pulley down. Then compare or measure the distance from the mounting to the flat surface. If it is exactly equal, the belt will line up.
The guy put the pulley I found, on a lathe, and corrected it for me.


Ah yes, I just discovered that too. The length of the pulley shaft seems to be different, so the backside of the Toyota pulley would also need to be machined down a bit.

It's too bad I cut my belt getting the alternator out. It had worn down to 3 ribs. It would have made a great test belt for 3 ribs!

The good news is that I've figured out how to get the alternator out the top side on a 4WD with just the overflow tank and bracket, lower fan shroud and the alternator tightening adjustment bolt removed (it's still a tight squeeze!).

I also learned that the Bosch alternator is 95 amp, while the Denso is 105 amp. Makes me wonder if there are more differences to the Denso alt, but a different pulley and shaft diameter/length would seem like weird changes for supposedly interchangeable alternators.

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