Weird starting/clutch problem

[Sam]

So I just bought a 87 4x4 manual van. It sat for a year before I bought it and had intermittent starting problems where it wouldn't crank. The previous owner said the starter and the solenoid were replaced. I also replaced the igniter. So when I click the key back and forth it would eventually get spark and crank over. Then when I got it home it started everytime I would try, but then the clutch wouldn't disengage when I was trying to put it in gear. Today I bled the clutch and after pumping the clutch a gazillion times it felt better but now it is having the starting problem again. I am totally baffled by this. Any ideas?

[Rudy]

This sounds like 2 problems, because the clutch switch to not allow the van to start is just a button that the pedal presses when the pedal is fully at the top.

See if your slave cylinder is leaking. Maybe it isn't getting the full hydraulic movement. It's on the passenger side mounted on the transmission.

[rootbeerrain]

Hey guys, I have an 89 van that has a busted clutch pedal switch, the top one. Anyone know where to find these? Also, would this be a reason that the clutch wouldn't engage? The bottom looks like it's fine but the top button is broken apart. I can get the van started (tricky ways) but when it's running I can't shift cause the clutch pedal isn't having any effect. I'm hoping I can replace that top button/switch and that's that. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks!
-Spencer

[Cali Cruiser]

Be sure to top-off the brake fluid reservoir since your clutch shares the same fluid/reservoir. If the reservoir is not filled to the line, the clutch portion of the reservoir may be low, even though the rest of the reservoir appears mostly full.

If you take off the panel to expose the reservoir, this is easier to see...There is a separation between the clutch portion and brake portion of the reservoir, and if your clutch system has a leak anywhere, it will drain down, while the brake portion of the reservoir will still be mostly full. There is a separation inside the reservoir to maintain brake pressure in situations like this, where your clutch system may be leaking.

Find and fix all leaks, refill the reservoir, bleed the system, and hopefully this will help your clutch shifting issue.

[rootbeerrain]

hi guys, so I bled the clutch at the slave and when my wife pumps the clutch pedal I see it move, but I'm not sure how far it's supposed to? anyway we bled it alot and saw some air bubbles come out and then it got stiffer. started her up and tried to shift but still no luck. trying to put it in reverse with the clutch fully down still gives a grinding noise. Also no grinding noise when trying to put it into any other shift position, it the shifter wont even go up those slots. is this normal? any ideas?

[mr_josh]

Can you get it in any gear with the engine off?

[rootbeerrain]

Yes, i can get the shifter to stay clicked into some of the slots but not all. To be honest, this is my first manual car and the original knob with the gear positions isn't on there so I'm kinda guessing where the gears are. But yeah it will select gears when the engine is off, but it seems to me the clutch isn't clutching when the van is running. we bled the clutch slave and I saw it move when my wife pressed the pedal. Is there a chance there's more to it than just that it moves back and forth?

[Cali Cruiser]

Try doing this...start the van and let it warm up a couple minutes until the idle drops down to normal idle. Hold the clutch in and gently try to put in 1st gear (push the shifter to the left and then forward for 1st gear). If it does not go easily into gear, try to go into reverse GENTLY (push the shifter to the far right then back for reverse). You may hear some slight grinding, just continue to gently hold it there and the grinding sound should slow down and then stop within a few seconds. The shifter should go into reverse at this point. While still holding the clutch in, try moving the shifter into 1st gear again. Does it go into 1st gear easily? You should also be able to go through all of the gears easily at this point, as long as you keep the clutch pressed.

At this point, put it back into neutral and release the clutch...then press the clutch and try to go into first again. It may or may not go back in easily. Whatever you do, never force things, that is how you break things. If it doesn't go into 1st easily again, and it grinds when you try to go into reverse, that means that the clutch is not fully disengaging and there are things still rotating in the transmission. Possible causes...air still in the clutch system...or the clutch is going bad...or the plunger on the clutch master cylinder needs adjusting.

[Cali Cruiser]

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m5AvaYVkXaRTxVmpyDExeAQ.jpg

[rootbeerrain]

Thanks I will try that! Interestingly, as my wife and were in the second attempt of bleeding the clutch system and my wife was pumping the pedal slowly she felt what she described as a ballon popping under her foot, and we both heard a poof hiss sound.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5T0cr6J3a04

This seems like a tricky tube to replace. Do you guys know of any easy solutions? I was thinking maybe flexible hydraulic hose. And I'll replace the slave for good measure.

[rootbeerrain]

I really don't want to try and bend a new rigid line to fit through all those hard to reach nooks and crannies. I got bent out of shape enough as it was trying to get the old one out of there! Does anyone know of an easier way??

[rootbeerrain]

Please Help!

Okay. so I replaced the salve cylinder, and the steel line that popped. I spent a while bleeding the clutch system with my wife. I'm under the impression that the bleeding was working because the clutch reservoir had to refill every few bleed cycles. Anyway, I started the van up and it won't shift! ARG! Yes the van does select into all the gears when the engine is off. When the van is running it won't even let me try 1st gear, it only goes to reverse but it grinds when i try to engage. It seems obvious to me that the clutch isn't doing its job, but why? :dizzy:

This is my first manual trans, so these might be dumb questions but I need your smart answers please:

How stiff is the clutch pedal supposed to be? How far is the clutch slave cylinder pin supposed to move? I'll post a video of how far mine moves now...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d__zqzVe0H4

Pleeease please help me, I really really rrrrrrrreeeeaaaallllyyy want to resurrect this van and get it driving. My wife is sick of pumping the clutch pedal for me, but she's even more sick of riding the bus. If i can get this clutch issue resolved she can drive our other car while this awesome van becomes my ride to work. Thank you for summoning your van guru knowledge!:wrthy:

[mr_josh]

That's actually a decent amount of travel.

Try this: set the parking brake or if it doesn't work well, hold the brake firmly with your right foot, put it in first with engine off, push the clutch in and try to start the van.

If it starts and idles in neutral then release the brake and see if you can drive it around normally in first gear. If you can drive it normally, just not shift, then I would say it's probably bad synchronizers in the transmission or possibly a bad throw out bearing but they tend to be very noisy.

If when you go to start the van it won't start or wants to move even with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, you have a clutch issue, maybe with a broken pressure plate, broken / "goofed up" (my technical term) throw out bearing or clutch fork, or maybe your slave cylinder is still not moving enough but it honestly looks pretty good to me in that video.

Either way... transmission is going to probably have to come out unless you get really lucky and continued bleeding of the slave cylinder does the trick. My brain's pretty fried from a long day so maybe I'm not considering some other possibility but clutches are really pretty simple. Maybe someone else will chime in.

[Ace MM]

but it seems to me the clutch isn't clutching ?
The clutch may be soaked in fluid if the leak was that bad.

What's happens when you put it gear and try to start it with the clutch down? Parking brake off.
It shouldn't lurch and should start.

[rootbeerrain]

Okay guys, thanks for your knowledge!


Cali Cruiser
Try doing this...start the van and let it warm up a couple minutes until the idle drops down to normal idle. Hold the clutch in and gently try to put in 1st gear (push the shifter to the left and then forward for 1st gear). If it does not go easily into gear, try to go into reverse GENTLY (push the shifter to the far right then back for reverse). You may hear some slight grinding, just continue to gently hold it there and the grinding sound should slow down and then stop within a few seconds. The shifter should go into reverse at this point. While still holding the clutch in, try moving the shifter into 1st gear again. Does it go into 1st gear easily? You should also be able to go through all of the gears easily at this point, as long as you keep the clutch pressed.

At this point, put it back into neutral and release the clutch...then press the clutch and try to go into first again. It may or may not go back in easily. Whatever you do, never force things, that is how you break things. If it doesn't go into 1st easily again, and it grinds when you try to go into reverse, that means that the clutch is not fully disengaging and there are things still rotating in the transmission. Possible causes...air still in the clutch system...or the clutch is going bad...or the plunger on the clutch master cylinder needs adjusting.


This gentleness technique unfortunately did not work in this situation.


mr_josh
Try this: set the parking brake or if it doesn't work well, hold the brake firmly with your right foot, put it in first with engine off, push the clutch in and try to start the van.

If it starts and idles in neutral then release the brake and see if you can drive it around normally in first gear. If you can drive it normally, just not shift, then I would say it's probably bad synchronizers in the transmission or possibly a bad throw out bearing but they tend to be very noisy.

If when you go to start the van it won't start or wants to move even with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, you have a clutch issue, maybe with a broken pressure plate, broken / "goofed up" (my technical term) throw out bearing or clutch fork, or maybe your slave cylinder is still not moving enough but it honestly looks pretty good to me in that video.

Either way... transmission is going to probably have to come out unless you get really lucky and continued bleeding of the slave cylinder does the trick. My brain's pretty fried from a long day so maybe I'm not considering some other possibility but clutches are really pretty simple. Maybe someone else will chime in.


I don't know much about manual trans yet, but it seems to me that the clutch hydraulic system is possibly only "sortof" engaging the clutch? I guess this because theoretically the van running in neutral should sound just the same as the van running in first with the clutch pedal fully depressed... right?

Anyway I took a video to make it easier to pick some golden nuggets of wisdom from your brains. Thanks bunches for the time you spend reading and watching!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_n2Uc0qT-Y&t=1s

[JDM VANMAN]

Sorry man you've got a lot going on, thank you for posting the videos. Reread posting number 13 by mr_josh where he says to-

1) put it in gear
2) start van
3) realease hand brake and foot brake
4) see if it drives and your able to shift

If not possible bad syncros??:?:

Just trying to help in case you missed that step, I have no idea?

JDM

[mr_josh]

Hey there- quick edit to my earlier post: "If it starts and idles in neutral" should read "If it starts and idles in gear [with the clutch pedal depressed]". Sorry about that.

[rootbeerrain]

Okay pals, that was a learning experience!

I tried what you guys said and started the van in 1st gear. Hand and foot brake released, started to idle forward. Does that happen in normal working vans or is the van not supposed to idle forward when the clutch pedal is down? (dumb questions i know but your smart answers have been so helpful). So I let the clutch pedal up, but not slowly enough apparently because it died. Then I let off the clutch really slowly and it drives. Admittedly I didn't try shifting it while i was driving on the road because I live right on the highway and there's always cars passing through and I didn't want to kill it right there... but when I pulled to the side and put the clutch pedal down it still wouldn't shift to other gears. It takes a bit of force to pull it out of 1st gear when it's been started and running in first gear. Doesn't move into gear when started in neutral. These synchros you speak of, are they part of the clutch or the rest of the trans? I wanna say that replacing a clutch is a bit easier than opening up the main part of the trans, but I don't know much for sure.

I will do what it takes to get this thing alive, so the quest continues.

Also if we figure this out together I will definitely try to make it up to you guys somehow! Many thank you's!

[mr_josh]

Sychronizers in the transmission are the parts that let you make a nice smooth shift between gears without having to match the input RPM to the output RPM. Internal to the transmission, not related to the clutch.

But the test drive that you just described narrows it down to the clutch system. So that's probably a good thing.

Describe for us your bleeding procedure. Maybe you just haven't got all of the air out of the hydraulic line (even though it really does look to me like the clutch slave is moving plenty far enough...)

[rootbeerrain]

Hmm Interesting!

Okay bleeding procedure was as follows:

Started bleeding at the clutch slave. Started with the reservoir full to the top. Wife pumped the clutch pedal slowly five times, held it down, and I loosened the nipple and released pressure. At first a few bubbles came out, but then for several of these cycles it was just fluid. A steel tube popped as earlier described (the one from the clutch master to the interesting manifold behind the front bumper with another bleeding nipple on it) but that tube was replaced and bleeding restarted. I then tried bleeding from the front nipple behind the bumper and never got anything besides bubble-less fluid. I am still unaware of how the clutch pedal is supposed to feel, as of right now it goes all the way to the floor, completely different from the brake. There's some resistance there but it's hard to put into words. Anyway, I'm pretty sure I followed standard bleeding protocol and I'm getting straight up fluid from both bleeding valves. Is there somewhere air could be hiding that it wouldn't be evacuated in this manner? Or are the hydraulics fine and theres an issue in the clutch? If only you guys could swing by Oahu and feel the pedal yourself!

[Ace MM]

... an issue in the clutch? If only you guys could swing by Oahu and feel the pedal yourself!
Yeah... You bled like a pro. Thank your wife!

It lurches forward when you try to start it, in gear, clutch pedal depressed?
Sounds like a new clutch time.
I have a place to stay on the big island, send me a ticket and I'll bring a new one and help install it.:dance2:

[spacecruisers]

Yeah... You bled like a pro. Thank your wife!
I have a place to stay on the big island, send me a ticket and I'll bring a new one and help install it.:dance2:


lol, nice, now we're talking.

[rootbeerrain]

It would be really awesome and appreciated if someone with a working manual trans could take a peek under their van and see how far their clutch slave moves the lever when the clutch pedal is depressed. That would help me confirm that the pedal hydraulics are working and I just need to replace some actual clutch stuff. Pretty please!

[rootbeerrain]

Just confirmed for sure that the clutch is the culprit: tried to start it in first gear with no brakes applied and clutch pedal fully depressed and it was like the starter was driving the van forward. I'm wondering if anyone here knows the best clutch replacement kit available? There were a bunch of options available at rockauto but I have no idea if there's any junk ones to be aware of. Also do you think a clutch kit would be sufficient or is there more I should buy?

Of course this is all IF my clutch hydraulics are all working right and I'm getting enough travel at the clutch slave lever. The only way for me to really know that is for somebody to compare my video with what they see under a normal working van... pretty pretty please??

[originalkwyjibo]

I've been watching this thread unfold and haven't chimed in because you've been getting solid advice. I would like to add a few clarifying viewpoints though. I think you are on the right track asking for a slave measurement. I have contacted a friend with a manual van and if no one else can get this for you I'll see what we can do. You're bleeding procedure sounds solid save for one point. You didn't mention at what point you are closing the bleeder. This may have been a simple omission in your description but to be sure, it should be closed with the pedal being held down after all the pressure has been released. The pedal should never be allowed to be raised until the bleeder is closed. Also, it's been mentioned in other threads that clutch bleeding was problematic with the front of the van raised on jack stands or ramps. If you are using these you may have a trapped air pocket in the system. Maybe you would even want to try raising the rear of the van and see if any more air comes out. Pedal pressure is different with brakes as compared to hydraulic clutches. If you really want to see the difference between what is referred to as pressure in a clutch pedal vs no pressure, you could have your wife explain it since she has been experiencing this the whole time she's been helping you or you could have someone open the bleeder while the pedal is up then depress the pedal to the floor with the bleeder open. This will not introduce any air into the system as long as the bleeder is closed before you lift the pedal. With brakes you are creating clamping force with the rotor between the brake pads. With the clutch you are simply trying to move something from point a to point b. Think of it as a hydraulic cylinder on an engine hoist, log splitter, backhoe etc. When the cylinder is filled with fluid it extends and something on the other end moves. That being said, for some reason yours does not seem to be moving enough. It is possible that your hydraulic system is working perfectly but something in the mechanical parts of the clutch aren't. Before I go on I want to clarify some terminology. You mention you didn't think the clutch was clutching. In fact it is just at the wrong time. When you depress the clutch pedal the clutch should disengage or de-clutch and when you release the clutch pedal the clutch engages. Your clutch is not fully dis-engaging. Your van should not creep when the clutch pedal is depressed with the van in gear and the engine should run at the same speed as when the transmission is in neutral. In fact with the engine running, the tyranny in gear, the clutch depressed, and the brakes released it should roll freely if someone were to push it. Someone mentioned an oily clutch but that would actually cause the opposite problem. I have seen clutches rust to either a flywheel or pressure plate after sitting for sometime which could be a possibility. It's also possible the clutch fork or throw out bearing are damaged limiting the slave cylinders effect on the pressure plate although a bad bearing usually makes noise when the pedal is depressed then goes away when it's released. The clutch fork is the part sticking out of the transmission that the slave cylinder pushes on. In the middle it has a fulcrum point that usually includes a pivot ball and retaining clip and the other end holds the throw out bearing. I have seen clutch forks wear through at the fulcrum which would limit the slaves effect on the pressure plate. It is entirely possible there is nothing wrong with the clutch disc or pressure plate and I would hate to see you throw unnecessary parts, money, and time at an unneeded job. Of course if the transmission has to come out to find the cause, a new clutch may be a worthwhile investment while it's apart. You could always get an educated opinion on the condition of these parts if and when you take it apart. If it were me I would want to start with verifying the travel distance of the slave cylinder before going any further. Hopefully one of us can get that for you. Best of luck!

[Ace MM]

. I'm wondering if anyone here knows the best clutch replacement kit available? There were a bunch of options available at rockauto but I have no idea if there's any junk ones to be aware of. Also do you think a clutch kit would be sufficient or is there more I should buy?

Of course this is all IF my clutch hydraulics are all working right and I'm getting enough travel at the clutch slave lever. The only way for me to really know that is for somebody to compare my video with what they see under a normal working van... pretty pretty please??
If you don't want to pay Toyota prices, aftermarket will be fine.
Nothing fancy required. Don't forget the discount code.
I'd replace any rubber lines too.

My manual trans car has equivalent travel.
Clutch movement is only a couple mm

[Ace MM]

Another thing to verify.
Does the clutch fork stay depressed when the pedal is held down?
A leaky or bad hose could cause similar symptoms if it doesn't hold pressure.

[VanCo]

I will see if I can get some pics together later.

All I know, is when my clutch master went bad (I also replaced the slave at the same time) it was a pain to bleed.

I have a lot of experience in the automotive world, and bleeding this clutch really tested my patience.

When bleeding a clutch it is important that the person manning the pedal pays attention to the difference between feeling pressure building and air. Try making small pumps (inch off the floor) only to build pressure, and then hold to the floor to bleed. As you bleed off air the small pumps will get longer and longer (you will feel the difference) until you are using the full throw of the pedal to build pressure.

I hope that makes sense.

[rootbeerrain]

originalkwyjibo
You didn't mention at what point you are closing the bleeder.
Bleeder was always closed before clutch pedal was released. Also, Thanks kwyjibo for that good chunk of knowledge!


Ace MM
If you don't want to pay Toyota prices, aftermarket will be fine.
Nothing fancy required. Don't forget the discount code.
OOOOHHHH is there a secret discount code I don't know about? Also yes the system holds pressure, the fork lever stays put when the pedal is held down.



VanCo
All I know, is when my clutch master went bad (I also replaced the slave at the same time) it was a pain to bleed.

I have a lot of experience in the automotive world, and bleeding this clutch really tested my patience.

When bleeding a clutch it is important that the person manning the pedal pays attention to the difference between feeling pressure building and air. Try making small pumps (inch off the floor) only to build pressure, and then hold to the floor to bleed. As you bleed off air the small pumps will get longer and longer (you will feel the difference) until you are using the full throw of the pedal to build pressure.

I hope that makes sense.

I have smallkine experience in the automotive world and this clutch bleeding thing has also tested my patience lol. I'm not sure I understand the full bleeding process though. I mean I know what to do but I don't know why it's done. Like originalkwyjibo explained, the brake fluid doesn't really compress it just moves. It will be under pressure when pressure is applied but it doesn't really build up pressure like pumping a bike pump. So why do we pump clutch pedals multiple times to bleed the clutch? Is it just to wiggle air bubbles around in an effort to dislodge them and hopefully move them towards the bleeder? Anywho, I need to be absolutely sure my hydraulics are air free before I open the trans to inspect the clutch itself. In that quest: VanCo, I'm not sure that the pressure is building as the clutch pedal is depressed. As it is now, theres like an inch of play at the top of the range and then as it goes down to the floor theres a steady amount of pressure. It's lighter than I would expect, but again I am a newbie here and this is the first clutch pedal I've ever pressed on so I have no idea what it should feel like :dizzy:.

I think today we'll do another round of bleeding with the back end jacked up for good measure. Know any other tricks to be positive there's no more air in there and to know without a doubt that there's no issues between the clutch pedal and the push rod at the slave cylinder?

Thank you guys for your time and energy reading and thinking about this stuff!:wrthy:

[originalkwyjibo]

Is it just to wiggle air bubbles around in an effort to dislodge them and hopefully move them towards the bleeder?
You are correct. Air compresses fluid does not. If there is air in the system then you don't get adequate pressure. This manifests as a squishy or spongy pedal with brakes but is a little more difficult to feel with a clutch. Have you checked pedal adjustment per the service manual? It sounds like you have more free play at the top of the pedal than what you should. If the master cylinder push-rod is not to spec, you may gain some slave travel by adjusting it. Just make sure you follow the procedure in the manual. Also, my friend was waiting for the rain to let up but thought he could get some measurements in the next couple days. He also works nights and sleeps days so getting someone to be up and come out in the dark with him to help take pics and measurements can be problematic.

[rootbeerrain]

Okay I will be patient, thank you and thank your friend!

I will make sure the pedal is adjusted to specs today, although I only have access to the 1987 repair manual and this van is an 89. I sure hope there's no difference.

[rootbeerrain]

The weirdest thing happened yesterday:

I put the rear end of the van up on jacks to tilt it forward in hopes for a better bleed, and I figured out a way to bleed it without help by pumping it myself and using a metal bar wedged between the pedal and the seat to hold the clutch pedal depressed all the way down while I went to release the bleeder valve. So the weird part is I started to see air bubbles escaping through the bleeder valve... WHILE IT WAS STILL TIGHTENED... what?? :dizzy: I wanted to take a video but my phone ran out of memory, I'll try to repeat that today and see if I can post one. But what the heck? Are the bleeder valves fluid tight but not air tight? I don't get how air would be coming out of the stem of the bleeder while it was tightened down. I was sure to check that the vinyl tubing I was using was securely pushed all the way onto the stem, thinking that maybe it was pulling a siphon or something and drawing air from the environment between the tube and the bleeder... but it looked pretty indisputable from my angle at least that air was coming from within the stem of the bleeder valve....... while it was tightened down...... and this is a brand new bleeder on a brand new slave that doesn't leak fluid or anything....... grrrr.

[Burntboot]

RBR - If the bleeder is leaking when closed, it isn't seating properly.
You have to pull the bleeder screw right out and inspect both it and where it seats in the slave.
Then decide if it goes back for warranty or not.

If you still have your original part, it may even be worth trying the bleeder screw from it.
Sucks to have "new" parts bad out of the box but at least this could be the smoking gun you were looking for?

Was the slave new or rebuilt?

[rootbeerrain]

Howdy guys and gals.

It is finally time for me to get back to working on this van. Any chance anyone has looked under their manual trans and seen if my slave is going the full movement as compared to normally functioning vans? If not pretty please someone do, I'd hate to drop the trans this weekend in vain. Anywho, my last ditch effort will be to hook up a vacuum pump to the clutch reservoir, a tube from the bleeder stem into a bottle of fluid, and suck fluid up through the whole system to be absolutely sure there's no bubbles in there. If that doesn't do the trick, that trans is droppin. All I'd be able to do is take the important looking parts to someone who knows what it's supposed to look like and get them to tell me if they're worn out/broken or not. Then I'll be buyin parts, swappin 'em and really hoping this thing shifts and drives after that. Anyway, pleeeeease chime in with observations and I promise someday I will make it worth your while somehow.

Thank you!

-Spencer

[rootbeerrain]

Success! And observations:

When I dropped the trans I found that all the clutch components inside were brand new! The clutch disk still had serial numbers or whatever printed on the face that hadn't been rubbed off yet. So that was confusing, but while I was there I pulled the flywheel and had that resurfaced for good measure (had some grooves in it). Also, it turns out that getting ambitious and trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics with an actual electric vacuum pump was way too aggressive and introduced way more air into the system. Here's the best way that I've found to bleed:

1. Remove the reservoir lid and fill to the very brim with DOT 3 fluid. Leave the funnel and bottle of fluid there and ready.
2. Put a closed wrench on the bleeder stem at the slave cylinder and slip on a tight-fitting, clear piece of tubing that will drain into a disposable container.
3. Open the bleeder stem, and as soon as you see fluid spilling out quickly jump up and run around the van to the reservoir.
4. As you see the fluid draining from the reservoir continuously fill it with DOT 3 fluid from the bottle.
5. When you are confident the system has been thoroughly flushed (I filled for about a minute) top off the reservoir and sprint around to close the bleeder valve before it drains too low and gets air.
6. Then do a standard bleed cycle a couple times to be sure (slowly pump pedal once, hold down while bleeder is cracked, close bleeder, then release pedal slowly, topping off reservoir).

This made my clutch work.

Alls I got to do now is drain the transmission and put some good new oil in there (some poured out the back during removal and it was blaaack). Would it be fine to just do a simple drain and fill with the fancy royal purple stuff?

Thanks,
-Spencer