Removing AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

[micah202]

.

..I have a good spare engine and transmission that I pulled from a wrecker van a few years back,
it's been sitting in covered storage ~5 years.
The engine and transmission were removed as a unit, the framing under the van torch-cut.

I recently pulled the unit from it's hidey hole,, intending to replace another engine., I removed all the bolts around the bell-housing that connect to the engine block, expecting the transmission to slide out from the engine, but it still seems solidly fused, not giving a mm of space.

...could it be that the spline joint inside could have fused with moisture?
.........or are there more fastenings to remove? :?:


.....any ideas,,suggestions? thanks

[timsrv]

If you got all the bolts it will come out. If it's an automatic the torque converter will remain on the flex plate, but the other end of it will slide out of the transmission. If it's a manual, the clutch & pressure plate will stay bolted to the flywheel, and the trans input shaft will slide out of the splines in the clutch disc. Either way, you'll want to keep the engine and transmission reasonably aligned as things will need to stay straight until disengaged (automatics are usually easier than manuals). Since it's been sitting for some time, if it's a manual trans, it's possible the input splines are stuck on the clutch disc splines. I think with a little persuasion (wiggling & yanking) you could separate, but if that doesn't work you could always chain the front of the engine to something, then wrap a chain around the tail shaft and use a come-along winch to pull apart. If it comes to that, just put a bit of tension on the cable, then push the eng/trans assembly sideways.......1st one way & then the other. Slide a pry-bar under the tail shaft and lift up a couple inches, then let it fall (bar between trans & floor). When cable loosens, put a bit more tension on it, then repeat. It will come. Good luck. Tim

[micah202]

.

...thanks Tim, it's an automatic,,,will try that soon, thanks

[timsrv]

Not much to make an auto stick, so I'm guessing it's just the locating dowels. There's (2) 10 mm steel dowels about 1/2" long that protrude from the engine block. One at top center and the other @ your 9 o'clock position (when you're standing behind the transmission looking towards it). These are supposed to be slip fit into the bell housing, but they can rust and/or get other debris up in there that makes them stick. I wear heavy boots, and usually a swift kick to the driver's side of the tail shaft is enough to break these loose. Tim

[ZillerGrizz]

Hi everyone!

After receiving some bad news about my transmission, I decided that I'd pull it out myself (to save some cashola) and have it rebuilt by a professional if necessary. The
only problem is that I don't have much of an idea of what I'm doing...:doh:I understand engine work, but transmissions aren't my forte.

Here are the details:
88 4x4 Auto

I unbolted the front part of the transmission from the rear main which went really well. For the back end, I don't know where to start. It looks like there are multiple places behind the transmission where there are 'breaks' where segments can be disconnected, but I don't know where to start :dizzy:.

If you have any advice, tips, videos, etc. I'd be REALLY grateful.

-Alex

6772

[Maxisback]

The books have a step by step , but thats all it really is ,pulling one part off at a time . I just went through this on my 4x4 5spd , my greatest tip is : Ratchet straps , this thing is heavy , but there are places on the underbody of the van to put a ratchet strap , to elp support weight on the way out and back in .

[VanCo]

I pull the transmission and transfer case out together. If I need to, I separate them on the ground, or bench.

[originalkwyjibo]

Step 1 would be drain fluids from both the transmission and the transfer case. Next, disconnect anything attached to the the outside of either to include electrical connections, vacuum hoses, speedometer cable, the dipstick tube, and cooler lines. Be sure to use a flare nut wrench on the cooler lines. There is also a tool called a crows foot that can be helpful for the cooler lines at the transmission but again make sure it is the flare nut style and use a second wrench to hold any adapter fittings so you don't twist off the end of the cooler line. Remove the torque converter bolts and push the torque converter back. This is done through an access hole at the front of the bellhousing, you'll have to rotate the engine to get to each one. Remove the rear driveshaft and the transfer case. You can leave the front driveshaft alone and just slide the t-case off it as you remove it. The t-case is full of large gears, planetary gearsets, and a chain and is surprisingly heavy for its size. Next would be a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the tranny pan to support it or straps as Max recommended. Remove the bellhousing bolts(Sounds like you already did this.) and rear support bolt, wiggle it loose watching for anything you forgot to disconnect and lower it down.

[Burntboot]

Also a good idea to mark the driveshaft to flanges, best to put things back together oriented the same way. (white-out works well)

While it isn't necessary to pull the fr shaft it will make reinstalling the trans a lot easier as its one less thing to have to line up and you're less likely to damage the seal.

And please, put 2 bolts back into the engine/transmission, (3 & 9 o'clock) they don't have to be torqued, just spun in by finger, till snug.
Saves bad things happening when you least expect it.

When I pulled my tranny, the rear mount centre bolt was seized solid, as the mount was still in good shape I opted to pull the upper plate the holds the mount to frame. It makes things more awkward but better than destroying the mount.

[ZillerGrizz]

Thank you all for the suggestions! I'm getting after it sometime this week and weekend. I'll update when finished !

[jdweasel47]

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/135x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND a Transmission Specific jack, like the one Harbor Freight for less than $100. It will make the job much easier (both removing and installing) and SAFER. While I have seen them removed with piece of wood, a trolley style jack, and a ratchet strap---I have also seen a good transmission fall off this mess while trying to line up for the install--- hit the concrete floor and break the aluminum trans housing---turning it into junk.

[Maxisback]

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/135x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11238.jpg[/IMG]asel47;32322] I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND a Transmission Specific jack, like the one Harbor Freight for less than $100. It will make the job much easier (both removing and installing) and SAFER. While I have seen them removed with piece of wood, a trolley style jack, and a ratchet strap---I have also seen a good transmission fall off this mess while trying to line up for the install--- hit the concrete floor and break the aluminum trans housing---turning it into junk.

Indeed a great idea ...that thing is a lopsided mass of metal , almost impossible to balance on anything ..... but I have to say , between the front suspensuion bars and the holes in frame at the back , if you dont get the jack the ratchet straps work perfect .

[ZillerGrizz]

Thank you all for the recommendations and tips!

I've started a blog that has some videos if you care to follow:
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/entry.php?331-A-dum-dum-and-a-transmission

-Alex