Power steering failure

[Cornato]

My power steering pump was leaking somehow and I was used to putting some fluid in it every once in a while. But I evidently forgot to put some in for a while and it failed. I think I burnt up the pump.

I tried to put some fluid in it, but it didn't do anything. I had already bought a rebuild kit from Rock Auto because I was planning on fixing it regardless.

Now I'm wondering if the seals and rebuild kit is enough, or do I need another pump?

[timsrv]

I'm sure it's possible for the pump to fail, but I've never had it happen. Once I ran my pump dry for over 2 years while I procrastinated on fixing a leak. When I finally fixed it I put fluid in and it worked fine :LOL2:.

Check to make sure it's still got a belt, then check the screen in the reservoir to make sure it's not clogged up. If the pulley's turning and the pump is getting unrestricted fluid to the input then it should be pumping. If the problem is internal to the pump, the only way to determine if it's repairable is to take it apart and inspect. Tim

[Cornato]

Well I put fluid in the reservoir to the brim, and turned the wheel fully and the level did not drop; it actually rose. And overflowed. Kinda boggled me. :cnfsd:

Why wouldn't it go in the lines?

[timsrv]

It sounds like you over serviced the reservoir. There's no reason to fill beyond the full mark on the dipstick. If you did that, overflowing can be an expected result. Aside from that happening, is the power assist not functioning? Did you check the belt and the screen?

[Cornato]

Yeah, checked the belt and it's toast. At first glance it looked ok b/c it was on the pulleys. But yanking on it free'd it and it was jammed on a lower pulley.:doh:

[Cornato]

ok, update. Just tried to put the new belt on and it's impossible. I tried to loosen the tensioner pulley, but the bolt started to come out instead of moving the pulley. so something messed up.

Should i zap it with deep creep and just wait. then try to free it?

[timsrv]

Did you loosen the lock bolt in the center of the idler pulley? You will need to do that before the adjustment screw can move that pulley. Also, make sure that pulley spins freely as it's fairly common for the bearing inside to freeze-up. If it's frozen up, then you'll need to take it apart and replace the bearing inside. It's a cheap and common garden-variety bearing that's used on everything. The part number is 6302-2RS. CLICK HERE (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2540003.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=6302-2RS&_sacat=0) to check out how many are listed on eBay at any given time. Tim

[theschnell]

ok, update. Just tried to put the new belt on and it's impossible. I tried to loosen the tensioner pulley, but the bolt started to come out instead of moving the pulley. so something messed up.

Should i zap it with deep creep and just wait. then try to free it?

It took me an hour to figure out that I needed to loosen that center bolt the first time I tried to take my belts off. :lol: Glad I wasn't the only one to struggle with it. For me, as soon as I loosened that bolt, everything was a breeze as far as getting the tension off the belts.

[Cornato]

Ok, yeah so I loosened the nut and it worked. I put a new belt on and works now. But the belt looks out of whack. It's not in line but I'm not missing any washer or whatever so I don't know why it's inline anymore.

It also makes a buttload of noise. Like when it was low on fluid, but now it's all the time. And when the noise comes it's directly proportional the the engine rev. Like the more I gas it the louder and higher pitch the noise is. I'm pretty sure it's from the pump. But don't know why?

[timsrv]

A classic mistake is to install the pump pulley backwards. That one action will cause the belt to be misaligned and can also cause it to drag on the pump body. Even if you haven't had that pulley off, chances are somebody from the past did............so check that 1st.

The noise could also be caused by a failing bearing inside the idler pulley (the one mentioned in my previous post). With the belt off rotate that pulley by hand and make sure it spins freely. It should glide without any resistance and should feel smooth. Any resistance or roughness means the bearing inside is shot.

Another cause for the noise could be a clogged screen/filter inside the reservoir. CLICK HERE (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?214-Power-steering-system-noise) to find out more on that. Tim

[Qasual]

This is a good time got a alternator shield. :lol:

[Cornato]

Ok update, I turned the pulley around and it was on backwards. So now that's fixed. The adjuster pulley works just fine, no noise. But the pump is making noise.

I stabbed the screen because I'm lazy, but it didn't help. I still think the pump isn't getting fluid for some reason.

The power steering goes in and out. It's like semi-power assisted steering. And of course it never works in the f*%king parking garage. Any suggestions? Rebuild the pump? Hoses? Workout more?

[timsrv]

Oh man, I think I'm just about out of suggestions. Maybe something stuck in the hose between the reservoir and the pump? Did you check that hose for kinks? Is fluid level up on the dip-stick? Perhaps you should take that supply hose off and blow air through it to verify flow??? In my experience these pumps have been bullet-proof..........but maybe you got a failed one??? It sure sounds like a weird one. If you ever solve the mystery I'd love to hear what it was. Tim

[Cornato]

Yeah I figured I'll have to inspect the hoses for a clog or something. That's the only thing left in my mind. How do I drain and flush the system?

[timsrv]

Read THIS THREAD (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?214-Power-steering-system-noise).

[Cornato]

Haha, while doing work on other stuff on my van(as you see from my posts) I had to removed all kinds of hoses and crap. And I guess I moved the power steering hoses or something.

Well I unbound it and that was the problem. The hose from the reservoir to the pump was clearly aftermarket and soft as a a noodle. It was kinked and that was the only problem!

Ha ha, aside from the leak I'm good. Bottom of list for now.

[Lois85]

Did you loosen the lock bolt in the center of the idler pulley? You will need to do that before the adjustment screw can move that pulley. Also, make sure that pulley spins freely as it's fairly common for the bearing inside to freeze-up. If it's frozen up, then you'll need to take it apart and replace the bearing inside. It's a cheap and common garden-variety bearing that's used on everything. The part number is 6302-2RS. CLICK HERE (http://shop.ebay.com/items/__6302-2RS_W0QQLHQ5fIncludeSIFZ1QQLHQ5fAvailToZ1QQ_nkwZ63 02Q2d2RSQQQ5ftrkparmsZ66Q253A2Q257C65Q253A15Q257C3 9Q253A1QQ_ipgZ100QQ_scZ1QQ_sopZ15QQ_trksidZp3286Q2 ec0Q2em14) to check out how many are listed on eBay at any given time. Tim




Hi Tim- I am in the midst of replacing the bearing on my p/s tensioner pulley. I ordered the bearing you linked, have everything lined up to put back together. I got my little 85 van in August and other then changing the oil and the alternator/power steering belts, I am figuring all of this out as I go with some help. I don't have heavy duty tools myself or even a garage myself, but might be able to access one if need be, with that said is putting the baring back into the pulley something I need bigger tools for? also- putting the pulley back on the bolt seems to need some heavy pressure then me just trying to push it back on by hand. I am scared of messing things up and don't know that I should use a hammer... any tips? :dance2:

[timsrv]

It has been so long since I replaced one of these I can't remember (sorry). Pretty sure I used average hand tools though. If you need to use a hammer, find a socket or something the right diameter and use that. When pressing/hammering bearings it's important to keep the force on the race that's being pressed. In this case I believe it's the outside race, so put pressure on that. FYI, It should be the same diameter as the bearing that you took out, so it should require similar force. If the old one fell out, then the new should "fall in". If not then you should double check dimensions of new bearing and compare to old. If it's not the same, then you got the wrong bearing. If you don't have a way to measure you can get cheap plastic dial calipers (https://www.amazon.com/Kocome-Caliper-Plastic-Vernier-Micrometer/dp/B01N4I2W6H/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1490804960&sr=8-5&keywords=plastic+dial+caliper) that are actually pretty darn accurate. I have a pair in my tool box (SPI brand) I've been using for ~30 years. They came as a "free gift" with a larger order I made from SPI back in the 80's. Initially I thought they were a joke, but I use them in "semi harsh" environments and they've held up remarkably well. I still trust them down to ~.01" :wnk:. Tim

[Grappler]

Hi Tim- I am in the midst of replacing the bearing on my p/s tensioner pulley. I ordered the bearing you linked, have everything lined up to put back together. I got my little 85 van in August and other then changing the oil and the alternator/power steering belts, I am figuring all of this out as I go with some help. I don't have heavy duty tools myself or even a garage myself, but might be able to access one if need be, with that said is putting the baring back into the pulley something I need bigger tools for? also- putting the pulley back on the bolt seems to need some heavy pressure then me just trying to push it back on by hand. I am scared of messing things up and don't know that I should use a hammer... any tips? :dance2:When I used to work more on small moped/moto motors, my smarter-than-I friend had a trick to get bearings into the case halves when rebuilding -- we'd put the cases in a toaster oven on a low setting and the bearing in the freezer for about 20 minutes each, and then they'd just plop right in, no press or hammering required. I can't see why this wouldn't work on an idler pulley, just don't cook it too much!

[brentlehr]

At this point I'd look at the pump itself and take a look at the line btw the reservoir and pump. Also remove and clean the PS reservoir and screen.. the screen can get clogged. Worn out steering racks can cause the semi-power steering feeling but usually leak quite a bit. It's a closed system like brakes, so you either have an obstruction or failed component. Even old worn out PS pumps should still move fluid. Did you completely drain the system and follow instructions for refilling and bleeding?




Ok update, I turned the pulley around and it was on backwards. So now that's fixed. The adjuster pulley works just fine, no noise. But the pump is making noise.

I stabbed the screen because I'm lazy, but it didn't help. I still think the pump isn't getting fluid for some reason.

The power steering goes in and out. It's like semi-power assisted steering. And of course it never works in the f*%king parking garage. Any suggestions? Rebuild the pump? Hoses? Workout more?

[Lois85]

It has been so long since I replaced one of these I can't remember (sorry). Pretty sure I used average hand tools though. If you need to use a hammer, find a socket or something the right diameter and use that. When pressing/hammering bearings it's important to keep the force on the race that's being pressed. In this case I believe it's the outside race, so put pressure on that. FYI, It should be the same diameter as the bearing that you took out, so it should require similar force. If the old one fell out, then the new should "fall in". If not then you should double check dimensions of new bearing and compare to old. If it's not the same, then you got the wrong bearing. If you don't have a way to measure you can get cheap plastic dial calipers (https://www.amazon.com/Kocome-Caliper-Plastic-Vernier-Micrometer/dp/B01N4I2W6H/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1490804960&sr=8-5&keywords=plastic+dial+caliper) that are actually pretty darn accurate. I have a pair in my tool box (SPI brand) I've been using for ~30 years. They came as a "free gift" with a larger order I made from SPI back in the 80's. Initially I thought they were a joke, but I use them in "semi harsh" environments and they've held up remarkably well. I still trust them down to ~.01" :wnk:. Tim


Thank you for the help!!! I ended up finding a whole pulley and bracket that I traded out. The one I took off was pretty stuck on, and I actually didn't realize that the bearing and the center piece that fits onto the bolt were two separate parts until I got the new/old part that I replaced it with. The old bearing is still stuck that that center washer on it. I will probably tinker around and try out your recommendations to know for next time :) ...The extra parts box has begun!

[JPERL]

Do I need to use a puller to remove the power steering pulley ? The manual makes no mention of using a puller. It says to remove the woodruff key but does not say how to remove the key. Can anyone speak to this who has done it? I noticed my pulley is on backwards