Drive shafts and u-joints

[timsrv]

If you have an 84 or an 85 van, then you are in good shape. Toyota made your u-joints replaceable. This means any reputable auto parts store should be able to easily supply you good quality and inexpensive u-joints. If you have basic tools and a medium - large size bench vise, you can replace u-joints yourself:dance2:.

If however you have an 86 - 89 van, then it's a whole different story. Starting in 86 Toyota started staking the u-joints. This means they loosely assembled the u-joints in the drive-line, then a big machine crushed the outside edges of the drive-line bores to permanently attach the u-joints to the drive-line. This may be fine for the life of the u-joint, but when a u-joint fails, it typically means replacing the entire drive-line.

It's not so bad I guess when you consider the u-joints last around 150 - 250k miles, but it is a bit frustrating and annoying just the same. If you have staked u-joints and one fails, you have several options. If you have an automatic 2wd van, the good news is all automatic 2wd van drive-lines from 84 - 89 are interchangeable. So if you can find an 84 or 85 van (with an automatic transmission) in a salvage yard, be sure to grab that drive-line as it will be easy to replace u-joints and will last for many many years to come.

If you can't find a drive-line off an 84 - 85 van, you have a manual transmission, or a 4wd, you could take your old drive-shaft to a shop that specializes in building custom drive-shafts. A drive-shaft shop can build you a new beefier unit with replaceable u-joints. This is a good solution when it comes to durability, but will most likely be the most expensive option (probably cost between $300 - $500).

Another option would be to order new Toyota shaft(s), but that would still be expensive and you would still be stuck with a wimpy drive-line with non-replaceable u-joints. At least it would be new and would probably last another couple hundred thousand miles (assuming normal use). These can be purchased (if still available) through discount internet Toyota parts sites (such as 1stToyotaParts.com (https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/part_number_search.html)) for around $250 each + shipping. Here is a list of the different Toyota drive-line part numbers:

04371-22010 (universal joint, van, auto and man trans, 2wd 1984 - 1985) *joint only
37110-28100 (drive shaft, van, manual trans, 2wd 1984 - 1985) *complete with removable joints
37110-28110 (drive shaft, van, automatic trans, 2wd 1984 - 1985) *complete with removable joints (can also be used on 86 - 89 2wd automatic vans) *NLA
37110-28240 (drive shaft, van, manual trans, 2wd 1986 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints
37110-28150 (drive shaft, van, automatic trans, 2wd 1986 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints
37110-28200 (rear drive shaft, van, manual trans, 4wd 1987 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints
37110-28210 (rear drive shaft, van, automatic trans, 4wd 1987 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints
37140-28010 (front drive shaft, van, manual trans, 4wd 1987 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints
37140-28020 (front drive shaft, van, automatic trans, 4wd 1987 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints

*UPDATE* 37110-28110 (drive shaft, van automatic trans 2wd 1984 - 1985) is NLA through Toyota. If ordered through them they will substitute with 37110-28150 (drive shaft, van automatic trans, 2wd 1986 - 1989) *staked non-removable joints.

Another (and the least expensive) choice would be to purchase new specialty u-joints and pay a drive-line shop to change them out. Rockford Drive Shaft Service in Rockford IL manufactures replacement u-joints for use in drive-lines with factory staked U joints. HERE (http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked%20Ujoints.PDF) is a PDF file that shows some of their products and gives their contact info. They don't specifically list the van, but they do manufacture a joint that will work for our shafts. For the 4wd, that u-joint is Rockford #430-10 for the rear drive shaft. If you need joints for the front shaft, or if you're working on a 2wd, I suspect you would need the same one but I don't know that for sure. If you call them they should be able to verify the correct part numbers. If you go the Rockford route, the shaft will need to be slightly machined, the old joints pressed out, the bores for the cups cleaned up, then the Rockford u-joints can be installed (this should be done by a drive-line shop). Once complete, from this time forward your u-joints will be easy to replace (using the Rockford joints) but due to slightly reduced U joint diameters, you will have a slightly weaker drive-line than original. If you are usually easy on your van and don't push the limits, then the Rockford u-joints should be fine. If however you push your van hard, you may wish to rule out this type of repair and go for the custom built drive shaft. Just remember breaking a u-joint / drive-line can be very dangerous and can also break your transfer case and / or other parts.

One final (and what I consider the best) option is to purchase a new Powertrain Industries (https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_driveshafts.htm?make=Toyota&model=Van) drive-line. They are located in Garden Grove, CA. Their phone number is 1-800-798-4585. They are making replacement drive-lines for just about everything now and they typically sell on the internet for about $175 - $230 complete. Rather than compete with these guys, many drive-line shops are now just purchasing these completed assemblies, marking them up about $100 or so, then reselling them. If you need a drive-line, I'd try Powertrain Industries before spending a lot of extra money at your local drive-line shop. Chances are you'll end up with one of these anyhow. Here's what they offer for Toyota vans + part numbers:


1984-1989 2WD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION #2391-604
1984-1985 2WD MANUAL TRANSMISSION #2391-605
1986-1989 2WD MANUAL TRANSMISSION #2391-606
1987-1989 4WD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Rear shaft) #2391-607
1987-1989 4WD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (Front shaft) #2391-603
1987-1989 4WD MANUAL TRANSMISSION (Rear shaft) #2391-608
1987-1989 4WD MANUAL TRANSMISSION (Front shaft) #2391-602


If you have any questions, call and ask. I got one of their rear shafts for my All-Trac Previa. It has the heavy duty Spicer 1310 series removable U-Joints with grease zerks and appears to be a quality built shaft. Here's a picture of mine, I paid $228. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0527.jpg

Note: Please feel free to reply to this thread with updated information and/or your personal results/experience with drive-line replacement/repair.

[NEC]

I just picked up a Powertrain Industries rear driveshaft for my 1987 4x4 A/T. My stock driveshaft blew out the rear u-joint and I considered replacing it but came to my senses. A thing that should be considered when replacing "staked in" type u-joints is that the centers of the driveshaft/yoke assemblies are not machined and are not truly centered. Replacing u-joints on these can cause a major off balance situation. I ended up ordering my driveshaft from the Garden Grove, CA store and haggled the price down to $183.00. It was built and shipped to me within 2 days. The new driveshaft uses Spicer 1310 series u-joints which are way bigger/stronger and are easily replaceable. I am running a 2" lift and longer shocks and still had room for the extra angle, but it was close. I just wanted to say how satisfied I am with my new driveshaft. Check out the website @ www.powertrainindustries.com

[timsrv]

Nice! This seems to be the way to go. I've also been happy with the one I put in my Previa. Tim

[skyflyer9]

I too have been looking at the Powertrain driveshafts - my '84 needs a replacement soon.

I originally found them on the internet through the website www.carjunky.com, which sells driveshafts for our vans for about $230 - more than NEC paid, but less than one from Toyota (if still available). It sounds like they're a bit beefier than the stock Toyota driveshafts as well.

[timsrv]

Skyflyer, If it's still got the original shaft, your u-joints are replaceable. Don't replace the entire shaft, joints are cheap and easy to change. Tim

[Sam Humans]

Just to chime in here... I also put a Powertrain drive shaft in my 87 4wd auto, ordered direct from them for $230. Now, I'm not moanin' here, but I would like to know the secret to haggling down with these folks so that next time this comes up (and it will!) I can get the NEC super discount price too! (very happy with the drive shaft though, made a world of difference).

[NEC]

Sam: I identified myself as a Toyota dealer when I spoke with the salesperson. He quoted me 230. I told him I was going to first try and replace the u-joints and then call him if that didn't work out. I asked again if he had any "jobber" pricing available and again explained that I am a Toyota dealer and offered my resale #. He got out his calculator and came up with the price I paid.

In this case the salesman gave me the wholesale price even though I am not an established buyer who would receive volume discounts. I have found that in most cases if the seller believes the part is being purchased for resale, they will offer you a price less than the standard MSRP. Hope this helps.

[djshimon]

Update: Cracked air intake hose!!! huge crack that was giving me these symptoms. I could swear it was the rear driveline but it was pretty solid, checked the hose and visible crack. Replaced it with a new one from Tonkin Toyota(they have them in-stock :yes: toyota #17881-73020 (http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota%7Ehose%7Eair%7Ecleaner%7Eno%7E1%7E17881-73020.html)) and no more stuttering.

Original post: I am getting a horrible stuttering/shimmy/shakeing from the rear(it seems) in first gear on acceleration from a stop. If I'm rolling I can start in 2nd and not feel it. It used to be only when the van was cold, and I could just ease the clutch out slower and it wouldn't shake/shimmy. The van has 240+,000 miles on it. I'm hoping it's the rear driveshaft and not the rear seal leaking on the clutch. Did some investigating(online) here and T.V.P. so I'll be shaking my drive-shaft:lol: to see if it's loose. I guess I'm looking for movement in the u-joints. The powertrain industries drive-shaft looks like the ideal candidate.
I'll report back with findings...

[timsrv]

Great news for you 4wd owners! Front drive shafts are now available through PowerTrain Industries (https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_driveshafts.htm?make=Toyota&model=Van)! I have edited my 1st post in this thread to reflect the part numbers of these shafts. Tim

[timsrv]

I just ordered a 2wd automatic shaft from them today. I'm not 100% sure about the other shafts, but the 2391-604 has the Spicer 5-1502X u-joints. Just some handy information in case a u-joint ever fails.........which I assume will be a long, long time from now. Tim

[tbkilb01]

This guy makes it look easy.



http://youtu.be/nJIL1vJDILY (http://youtu.be/nJIL1vJDILY)

[BigDawgGottaEat]

Had a quick question - figured I would post here instead of starting a new thread. I am a new owner of an 88 4wd auto, I have started going through the van to try and get her back in fighting shape. I recently got replacement driveshafts for the front and rear from Powertrain Industries. The rear went in no problem, but the front one seems too short? I feel like the flange on the shaft should go tight where it slides into to the transfer case but there is about 1 1/4" gap. Unfortunately I don't remember how it looked before, so I was hoping someone on the forum could tell me if it is indeed short, or everything is gonna be alright. New shaft measures 37" center of u-joint to center of u-joint. Thanks

[originalkwyjibo]

I've got approximately 37 1/4" u-joint center to u-joint center and the insertion looks like this:
4676
It looks like it has a different length collar.

[BigDawgGottaEat]

Thanks originalkwyjibo. I'll see what Powertrain has to say about it.

[timsrv]

It looks to me like it's just that protective shield. It's there to protect against dust build-up and sticks & things from touching sensitive parts of the seal area. The original one was long, but the new one is short. It's improper, but likely of no consequence. Still, it seems odd that they cannot build the drive shaft with the correct shield. I'd email those pics to Powertrain Industries and ask if they can do anything about it. Tim

[windsurfvan]

Recently broke my rear drive line in my recently acquired 88 4x4 AT. It was making a lot of noise when I got her up to around 50 mph, only i wasn't sure if it was the drive line. Now it looks like it was.
I was going to park it until I could research the problem when winter hit us hard and I needed the 4x4 for work. Drove it for a couple weeks mostly keeping it below 45 mph and then she started getting loud at 35 mph at times until the u-joint blew.
Took Tim's advice and ordered from Power Train. It arrived today and i will be installing it soon. The previous owner told me that the noise had been getting gradually worse over the years. It wasn't his daily driver. Just hope i have not done more damage by pushing it to the limit. Guess I will find out when i test drive soon.

p.s. the Power Train price for the rear shaft is now at $312.00. Money well spent if I find it was my only problem in the rear end.

[AnotherUser]

Anyone have experience ordering through oempartworld.com, they seem to have some of the cheapest prices on drive shafts. ($290 + $20 shiping)

https://www.oempartworld.com/oem-parts/toyota-drive-shaft-3711028240
(https://www.oempartworld.com/oem-parts/toyota-drive-shaft-3711028240)
EDIT: OEMPartWorld no longer carries this driveshaft, don't know why they have it listed for sale

I called some distributors of Powertrain Industries a month ago and they were wanting $375+ for a 2wd drive shaft

I've also been looking into some listings on ebay ($318)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Top-Quality-Driveshaft-Prop-Shaft-Fits-Toyota-Van-1986-1990-Manual-/152064452274

Is this ebay listing a distributor of Powertrain Industries?

[windsurfvan]

I called Powertrain in January and may have gotten lucky by mentioning this thread and TVT to their representative. I was fishing for a better price closer to the $230 mentioned in earlier years of this thread and he offered to have his manager call me back. When he called back he quoted me $375. We settled on the original quote of $312 shipping inluded.

Don't know about the e-bay question.

[Chardog1971]

I just got off the phone with powertrain industries, and they said 375. thats more than the van cost me in the first place. There is a shop here that seems to think they can replace the original joints. im going to bring it there and see what, if anything, they can do. This shop does make custom lines so, in the event that they cant fix it, i will see what their cost is.
Any one out there have an extra rear driveline? :redvan::yellowvan::greenvan: Thanks and praise.

[Chardog1971]

my local guy looked at the drive line. He said that he had done a few of these over the years. Has not got any call backs about them. problem is, the yoke got damaged. most likely not fixable. I am probably going to have a new one built any way as the original seems pretty weak . I took my 89 on a 500 mile trip this last weekend and all I could think about was the potential for U-joint failure. 234k and I dont think its ever been addressed. Maybe I get a deal on two or more. :redvan::yellowvan::greenvan:

[Chardog1971]

Just heard back from my drive train shop. They said the yoke was too damaged to rebuild. It was pretty beat up. He quoted 360 for a new one with serviceable bearings. Im thinking I will have him do it. I think my 89 also needs one so, I thought I would get one from Powertrain Ind., and compare. The price is less locally so, I would like to support them. Plus, no shipping hassles. I have had work done here before and the results have always been good. I'll let you know how it turns out.:redvan::yellowvan::greenvan:

[Megadysart]

Anybody have any luck with the Rockford replacement u joints? Tim, you said something about the Rockford #430-10 working but needed to be machined slightly. What part of the shaft needs to be machined? Was gonna bite the bullet and try them out.

Edit: Messaged Rockford Driveline on their Facebook page, hoping to get some more info. I mentioned the TVT forums and hopefully just like what happened with the Honda civic 4wd wagon community, rockford will either add the Van to their catalog under the 430-10 listing or realize that there are tons of people who would pay for a specialty for our vans and tool up to engineer us a specialty joint for our vans. Anything to keep these vans on the road!

[timsrv]

I've used the Rockford joints before, but not yet on a van. Based on what I've gleaned from other posts (from other van owners over the years), I believe that Rockford 430-10 is correct for the 4wd rear shaft (not sure about the front shaft or the 2wd shafts). I would think all vans would use a similar joint in all places, but can't say that for sure. If anybody can verify, this could be helpful for future readers.

Regarding the machining, it doesn't necessarily require a machine shop (I've done this in my garage), but you might need a big vice or a hydraulic press to get the old joint out of there. When they put these together at the factory they crush the outside edges of the bores with a big press. This process is referred to as "staking" and it smashed down the edges of the bores to reduce diameter. This typically just affects the outside edge of the bore (perhaps 1/8" deep) and prevents the joint cups from falling out. It's this staking process that makes future joint replacement a PITA.

In my case I have a monster vice bolted down to a work bench and that bench is bolted to the concrete floor. I use an old wrist pin as a driver and a socket to support the shaft. The hole in the socket gives the joint cup a place to go. then I use a huge cheater bar on my vice handle. With enough force you can drive these out (although I'll usually get in there with a small cutting wheel on my Dremel 1st to remove any big burs in the way). Once out I will clean-up the bores with a round file and a small drum sander attachment for my drill (just good enough so the new Rockford cups will slide in/out without too much trouble. The Rockford cups have grooves on the inside edge. Once the joint is in place, you install the "c" clips in the grooves and that's what secures the joint to the shaft.

I'm a bit stubborn when it comes to doing things myself and I have more tools and equipment than the average guy. If you don't have access to a shop with lots of tools, I would think you're better off taking it to a drive-line shop. In reality, it would probably make more sense for me to do that too.......but like I said, I'm stubborn :wnk:. Good luck. Tim

[Megadysart]

Thanks Tim. I got in touch with Rockford and they sent me a couple spec sheets with the dimensions of the u joint. I went ahead and ordered one for $42 shipped and it should be here on wednesday. I'm gonna go ahead and just replace it and I'll update here on the fitment and might upload some pics of the installation. :silvervan:

UPDATE
Got the joint in from Rockford, punched out the old joint with a punch and a BFH, the Rockford #430-10 fit perfectly. Quality part, came with a grease fitting and it actually looks bigger and much beefier than the original, even with the cutouts for the inside c clips. I might see if Rockford will add the Van to their catalog so more van owners will be able to find it without having to sift through forum posts. Anything to keep these vans on the road :silvervan: :redvan: :yellowvan: :greenvan: :bluevan:

[boogieman]

thats good news im considering the same, but found rockauto selling GMB 2200024 ujoint for staked rear toyota van all...for $7. ill report back

[boogieman]

5221

so heres the GMB $7 rockauto u joint and a Neapco $27 delivered from ebay u joint with inner clips and grease fitting. the neapco pic on ebay was stamped made in usa, the box this u joint came in said made in china. im curious as to the rockford u joint and its country of origin and the size of the 'inner race'. the gmb is a beefy .625" or so...the neapco is .524" or so...i imagine because the cups are machined and have the clip grooves in them. i have machine tools and could cut outside clip grooves for the gmb but it would be a pain...ive also seen people stack washers on the outside of the cups and tack weld them to keep the cups in place....anyway..i guess i have too much time on my hands.

[Megadysart]

They look like they fit, I'd be super careful throwing cheap parts at a rotating part like a driveshaft. If that u joint breaks at 80 mph that driveshaft is coming through the floor and wreaking havoc.

[boogieman]

id still like to know about the rockford joint but i imagine its the same as the neapco...the gmb seems like good quality despite the price and pretty sure its japanese..the only problem being staking it back in properly somehow..

[Megadysart]

id still like to know about the rockford joint but i imagine its the same as the neapco...the gmb seems like good quality despite the price and pretty sure its japanese..the only problem being staking it back in properly somehow..

The Rockford joint was really good quality made here in the US. It arrived from Rockford 3 days after I ordered. It fit right in no problem, the hardest part was getting the old joint out. Big hammer and a vice and it's ready to go. Clean the bores with a dremel or file to get rid of the stakes and pop the joint in, put the c clips in then grease and you're done.

[boogieman]

thecvman on ebay is selling Rockford Driveline 430-10 replacement ujoints...when i asked him where theyre made he replied..
"China. If you have any other questions let us know. If you're looking for parts that are not made in China good luck."

ill probably try and press the old ones out and im going to try and use the GMB joint and stake it in with welded washers or similar....

Rockford confirmed in a return email:
"We do have the ability to mfg the bearing caps but the 430-10 is a bit smaller then we want to make so we have developed with a factory outside the states…rofl currently we have been using a china factory that builds them to our print specifications…rofl we have had 7 returns from 3 customers since 1/1/2017 – 1,335 sold in that time.rofl We offer a 1 year warranty on u-joint workmanship."
with that being said, id order mine from thecvman as his are about half the price of buying directly from Rockford...

[LightBlueToy]

Lifted my van in the rear with Aerostar springs and now I have a tink tink tink noise when i accelerate. I think it's coming from my drive shaft. Anyone experience this noise or have any ideas what is going on? I haven't seen anyone mention any issues when lifting the rear modestly like I have done. Not sure where to go from here. I just put a bunch of effort in working on the suspension of this van...and now this. Not sure where I should take it in the bay area or santa cruz to have it worked on for this issue, because I think it's beyond me somehow fixing the the propeller shaft / u joints. If that is even what it is. Help please!

[bikerjosh]

,Sorry if I missed this but did you remove any of the coils on the Aerostar springs? I seem to remember (take that w/a grain of salt) that folks using thee springs have cut off a couple coil rounds.

[LightBlueToy]

Yeah I removed the top two coils like everyone else

[bikerjosh]

I have a pair that I haven't installed yet. If I get to it soon I'll report back any findings. -thanks Josh

[LightBlueToy]

Thanks, more data is always helpful. I am going to load up the back of my van (empty now) and see if some droop makes the sound go away before i tear into this more.

EDIT: I hope this isn't straying too far off topic.. Loaded down the sound is gone. If you are lifting the rear of your van you might want to use an angle finder to note your pinion angle before lifting.

[boogieman]

5495
5496
5497

so heres how i did it, i feel pretty good it should last another couple hundred thousand miles...and it was cheap!

i recommend using a cutofff wheel and cutting the 'heart' of the bad ujoint out, then pressing or driving the cups inward away from the stakes. dremel or file the stakes down flush. its important that they are not proud as they can deform the cup

i used the $7 rockauto GMB ujoint made in japan and very similar to stock, i feel it is a better/stronger ujoint than the clip styles that are available, but it takes some more work and special tools...

to assemble i heavily greased the joint (it mentions on the.box that there is only enough grease for shipping/storage) and used a c clamp and socket to press the cups in..this can be tricky as its easy to catch an edge of a roller bearing and move it out of place so go slow...

after eyeballing everything i chucked it up in the lathe and used c clamp to get it within .001", i noticed i had some slight ovalization in the shaft...i think it would be possible to do this on the van as well....

next i used 2 washers per cup to bring the weld up close to flush with yokes to make it easier to grind off and maybe take more heat away from the cup..i used the c clamp to hold everything in place while i tacked it together, i went slow and cooled everything with a spray bottle...

[Chardog1971]

my local guy looked at the drive line. He said that he had done a few of these over the years. Has not got any call backs about them. problem is, the yoke got damaged. most likely not fixable. I am probably going to have a new one built any way as the original seems pretty weak . I took my 89 on a 500 mile trip this last weekend and all I could think about was the potential for U-joint failure. 234k and I dont think its ever been addressed. Maybe I get a deal on two or more. :redvan::yellowvan::greenvan:


i got my custom built drive line a month and a half ago and I put it on my 89. went on a 6500 mile trip which included some four wheeling. It performed like a champ.way stouter than my original.:redvan::yellowvan::greenvan:

[AD2101]

Ugh, I just created a whole lot of work for myself, hoping someone can help me out before I ruin a second drive shaft.

What happened was my van started to vibrate around 45mph. This vibration would mostly level out around 55mph. The vibration was coming from the back end and, since it seemed to go away with speed, I figured I needed to get my wheels balanced. Flash forward to a month or so later I would get a gnarly grinding noise coming from the back end, almost like the sound you get when your brake pads are all the way worn out. This was in addition to the vibration I was getting at speed. Being the knowledgeable van owner that I am, I deduced that my van does not have disc brakes in the rear so I went poking around the rear end (giggidy) to see what I could see. Anyways, I narrowed the problem down to the rear drive shaft, which was completely seized up on the differential end of it. Like seriously, I have to beat it against a wall just to get it to move even a little bit. The only movement in the u-joints is the play it has now, which is admittedly a lot.

Ok so now to where things went south. I have a spare rear drive shaft I pulled from my parts van, and, in my haste, I decided to grease up the zerks with the replacement drive shaft still out of the van. This resulted in the drive shaft expanding and it becoming physically impossible to fit back into the van. What I had to do was separate the drive shaft and basically just scoop out all the excess grease until I could get it to fit underneath my van. My problems are twofold, first: is there a specific way the drive shaft needs to go back together? I followed the FSM's incredibly insightful directions to "place matchmarks on the differential and propeller shaft flanges." However, it didn't say anything about marking the sides of the drive shaft. There appear to be weights on the one side, so I'm assuming there is a specific way this is supposed to go back together. So, How do I "recalibrate" my drive shaft, so to speak. Second problem: While I was able to get my drive shaft onto the van, it took a Herculean effort to do so. As I was so focused on just getting it on, I wasn't able to get the bolt holes on the drive shaft to line up with the holes on the flange of the rear diff. Is there any way to get them lined up without pulling the drive shaft? I realise this point becomes moot if I have to pull my drive shaft to recalibrate it, but if I don't need to recalibrate the drive shaft I would very much prefer not to pull it, if at all possible.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Here is how the shaft looks currently in the van. 5686You can see the orientation of the two shafts (giggidy) as well as that the holes on the differential end appear to be 45 degrees offset from the differential flange.

[boogieman]

pretty sure you are out of 'phase' or yoke alignment by 90 degrees..i referenced this link when i had the same question..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/alignment-of-driveshaft-yokes-mystery-vibrations.220571/

the PO of my van also put so much grease in the zerk on the driveshaft that it hydrolocked it, i think he was hoping to see it ooze out the ujoint....that zerk is just to lubricate the splines dont fill it with grease!!!!! it needs to be able to slide...

[AD2101]

Thank you for the information and confirming for me that I made a boo-boo. In that thread you linked to, someone said the FSM shows the proper orientation of the drive shaft put together. Can anyone confirm this? I mean it makes sense logically and I'd be willing to bet that this is the case, but confirmation or a picture of a non-borked drive shaft would help ease my concerns on this. Either way, it looks like I have to remove the shaft again so the second problem has been rendered moot (for now).

[AD2101]

Ok. I went to sleep, woke up, had a good breakfast, and then referred back to this thread, the link posted by boogieman, and the FSM and I believe my crisis has been averted. What I ended up doing was removing the zerk fitting from the drive shaft, which relieved enough pressure to pry off the drive shaft so I could essentially start over and get my drive shaft "back into phase" so to speak. I followed the advice in the thread linked to by boogieman (thanks again man) and reoriented the two halves of the drive shaft so they looked as they appear in the FSM below.

5690

Once I had everything back to normal, it was a simple matter of reinstalling the zerk fitting, popping in the drive shaft (which was much easier after removing even more grease), and reinstalling all the nuts and bolts. I took it out for a quick shakedown and the vibration at speed was completely gone as was the growling/grinding sound I was experiencing before, so I'm confident enough that this was the root of all my issues. I'll make sure everything is torqued down properly after work and then I'll put some miles on it and see what happens.

Lessons learned here: 1) Don't put grease through a zerk fitting with the shaft out of the vehicle. If you have to do so only put in one or two squeezes as opposed to the 6 or 8 I did (seriously didn't think enough grease could even pass through that tiny fitting but oh well). 2) READ AHEAD if you have a FSM, as a couple of pages after the first image I saw this:

5691

Which would have at least prevented me from freaking out as much as I did. Thanks again boogieman for the knowledge, hopefully someone else sees this thread before they make the mistakes I did so they can save themselves the time and aggravation.

[yotajohn]

Hey all, I have an '84 2wd van that I was going to grease the u-joints on but it looks like there is not a standard zerk fitting. I find it really strange that Toyota would make a driveshaft with a u-joint that is not serviceable. Am I just missing something here? Is there a tiny port in the middle of the joint that I'm not seeing because of all the dirt and grime? I saw in the FSM that there is a zerk at the end of the yoke but that looks like it. The van only has 69k on it and the joints are in good shape, just looking to prolong their life.

Thanks,

John

[Burntboot]

North Americans are notoriously bad at doing maintenance.
Repeated failures on items needing, but not receiving, regular service caused many warranty headaches for car companies.
Hence the invention of sealed for life parts.

Your U-joints never had zerks,
or a place to install them. However being an 84 it should have replaceable joints (non-staked) which makes life rather easy.
Replacement joints WILL have a zerk fitting and it MUST be greased with regularity, failure to do so will lead to premature failure.

If you are unsure of the state of your joints, there are 2 things you can do that will ascertain their condition.
1st, look for orange dust around the caps, if you see any, order new joints ASAP
2nd, mark and remove shaft and articulate joints thru their range of movement, they should move (N-S, E-W) with even force and no tight spots.

[Janky]

I had to order a new drive shaft after mine broke in Iowa while moving cross the country for the 2nd time. I had to tow it back 1400 miles to Ny cause no one could get one in Iowa. Anyway! I ordered one online. It showed up with no dust shroud! So I hammered the one off my old one and welded it to the new one. You can also jb weld it too if you clean it well enough. My 4wd had a crazy rattle around 20mph. I figured out it was the dust shroud rattlin easy tack weld then all is silent.
Keep on vanning

[boogieman]

saw this on ebay just now...this ones for a 4x4 manual but the have them for all the vans...dont know if theyre staked or not or if the quality is any good but theyre available...now if we could get some aluminum 4x4 radiators made....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F32 2841007295

[Flounder]

I've replaced the driveshafts in both my 2WD 5spd vans with ones made by Powertrain. They are better than new; no complaints at all. Ordered several 4WD 5spd rear driveshafts; have them in storage until I go home in May. Powertrain says they can't make new 4WD front shafts because of the tapered section. They did, however, rebuild one I sent them; looking forward to putting it in my silver/red 4WD in a few months. Powertrain is not cheap, but they do excellent work; you get what you pay for.

[MssnBlu]

Just getting started into putting the early touches on my really good condition new-to-me 89 4x4 and found this thread extremely helpful.

Van delivered from previous owner in excellent condition for its age. Primo really for what it is. However, I drove it away with a spurious clicking coming from the rear at certain points in the acceleration curve. Current rear drive is second hand to the van (totally rusted out compared to the rest of the vehicle and probably sourced from a junkyard in someplace where they use a lot of salt on the roads). In dubious condition at best and when compared to the front drive shaft, completely ugly. Because u-joints are cheap, was ready to overlook this rusted out part on an otherwise minimal to no rust underside and begin the replacement of the u-joints myself under the theory that it's the rear of the u-joints that is dried up and shot. Then read in this forum about the 'staked' part of these drive shafts and took another look. Well I'll be, scratching head in disbelief that a drive shaft would have irreplaceable consumable parts. They must not have thought these things would ever make mileage to do something like that.

Much consideration later and knowing that my young van only has 179k on it with another 179k expected, I made the decision to fork out full price for a brand new shiny Powertrain rear driveshaft instead of trying to find someone on island to punch and fit new u-joints into this rustier than rusty drive shaft that was clearly not taken care of in its past life. 375 plus 49 shipping is cost. Cheap by Hawaii prices. Powertrain said 2 days to build and 2 day UPS delivery (expect 5 to Hawaii on a 2 day ticket).

As one of those always doing it myself people it was a swallow to 'not do it myself' but having a new one built will be money well spent when I reach the next 100k of beach and mountain cruising with complete confidence in my drive train. Besides, I've got another scrumptious project to get into, rehabbing the non-working AC equipment.

[MssnBlu]

The Powertrain rear shaft arrived in no time. Really good looking piece of work. Quick bolt on and no more clickety-clack emanating from the back.

8768

[outlawmws]

OK, I have what I believe isa new option for for those with non-replaceable U-Joints, Especially for those with 4WD (which I would presume has a shorter DS than the 2WD...

Warning, this may not work for 2WD OR if you get lucky, it may be a bolt in!

So this is 4WD rear shaft only on the 87 and up 4WD vans:

Background:
I also have 4 Samurais, (one parts rig) and the later, Post 88 Samurais happen to have the same drive flange bolt pattern as the 4WD Toyota vans, as well as the same size alignment rim for minimizing runout.

That's good! However as short as the Samurai is, the rear DS is still longer than the 4WD Tvan DS. 5 inches longer. My parts rig is an 89.


This next part I have done many times to make a custom length DS over the years:

So I cut the weld and broke the yoke off the tube, (making sure it was clean and the shoulder was square (lathe work...)

Then I used a tubing cutter to shorten the tube for an effective 5" total shortening of the completed DS.

I deburred the tube (Half round file) aligned the yoke after pressing it on, (I used two arrow shafts wired against the side of the U joint holes and used those to sight the arrow shafts parallel).

I used a pipe clamp to ensure the shoulder stayed solid on the tube end.

After preheating (the yoke has more mass that the tube so I concentrate the heat there to eliminate "cold welds" ) I tack welded the tube to the yoke, in three places, then welded it up.

I rechecked the alignment and proceeded to installing new reasonable U-joints.

NOTE: I ALWAYS repack the new U-joints with Mobile 1 synthetic grease; (The factory grease is only useful for keeping the bearings from rusting, if that. get that crap out of there...)


The welded yoke went right together easily. The other end had one tight side and I needed to clean the hole up. Don't force a cup as its hardened and can raise a ridge in the softer yoke which has to be removed... (best for this is a reamer, This happened to me here and I used a dremel sanding cylinder since I lacked the reamer)

After than it was a simple reinstall to replace the DOA factory DS. (lasted 315K miles so decent life..)

So this can be done in the home shop if you have the equipment. If not, visit a local DS shop that can do custom work and get a quote for shorting a DS.

Samurai DS come up regularly on Eprey or even C-list. Assuming the DS prices are not silly money for a simple shortening job, this HAS to be cheaper than the custom new DS.

The KEY here is to get the 88-1/2 or later Drive shaft (the rear one, the front is longer, so that may be a possibility for the 2WD model T vans if longer than the rear.

Again the Early 85-88 Samurai had smaller bolt flanges, (you could use the later bolt flange with the early DS) (88 was a transition year and they changed the yoke flanges mid year...)

BTW, the old U-joints were perfectly fine and I cleaned and repacked those, re-bagged them and they are now spares.

I did this whole job with no out of pocket expenses as I had 6 or seven new U-joints in stock.

Outlaw

[Flecker]

5221

so heres the GMB $7 rockauto u joint and a Neapco $27 delivered from ebay u joint with inner clips and grease fitting. the neapco pic on ebay was stamped made in usa, the box this u joint came in said made in china. im curious as to the rockford u joint and its country of origin and the size of the 'inner race'. the gmb is a beefy .625" or so...the neapco is .524" or so...i imagine because the cups are machined and have the clip grooves in them. i have machine tools and could cut outside clip grooves for the gmb but it would be a pain...ive also seen people stack washers on the outside of the cups and tack weld them to keep the cups in place....anyway..i guess i have too much time on my hands.


So Boogieman, I see you went with the GMB branded u joints and stacked some washers and welded. Any issues with balancing? How are they holding up thus far? Happy with them?

I am going to go the same route and was looking for feedback. :)

[boogieman]

ive got close to 20k on them with no issues...a fair bit of that offroad, i never had it balance checked but no vibrations of any kind...it would be nice to figure a zerk fitting out, it may be possible to tap that ujoint but its been a little while since i had it in hand...also maybe having the yoke machined for a clip or screw retainer would be cool....

[Flecker]

Oh heck yah... info I wasd hoping to hear. I am getting three, two for the rear and one for the front (the one thats giving me some squealing right now). Will report back on the front as to fit and function! :thmbup:

I actually like the idea of a couple small beads to hold them in place, as opposed to trying to re-stake them. The clips would be nice, but I have no lathe... welding is no issue though.

[boogieman]

definitely pack the bearings i think theyre shipped with just enough grease to prevent corrosion, and i was concious of cooling the welds after each small bead as to not cook the grease...

[Flecker]

Copy that man... will prolly just run 4 good tacks and call it good! Will still be stronger than the og staked in process, no doubt. What grease did ya use to pack em?

[boogieman]

are alltrac previa rear driveshafts the same as 87-89 4x4 vans? im thinking no, of course not, but was under an alltrac at the upull today and it looked really similar...maybe longer?

[outlawmws]

are alltrac previa rear driveshafts the same as 87-89 4x4 vans? im thinking no, of course not, but was under an alltrac at the upull today and it looked really similar...maybe longer?

Probably not, but if longer it can be shortened. See my post above in this page where I used a Samurai D-Shaft.

Be sure to measure the flange bold spacing, and the centering ring. If those match all you need do is get it cut shorter. HOWEVER if it uses the same crimped U joints, I'd pass on it...

[boogieman]

10735

well curiosity got the better of me, i needed a hitch for the T100 as well so headed to the upull and pulled the rear driveshaft from a 1991 auto alltrac and its darn near identical to an 87 4x4 but the alltrac is approximately half an inch longer. thinking since everyone wants to lift their 4x4 that this would work as is, or at least get a traveler back home..same staked ujoints but this one feels nice and tight for $19.99 plus all the bs fees..im thinking the standard trans alltracs are probably the same but curious as to the supercharged alltracs..i know the yoke size changed on 2wd sc vs. normally aspriated previas...

[boogieman]

I also would really like to come up with a way to lube the staked ujoints as i feel that could help them last even longer..the blue drive shaft above i pull many years ago and is nice and tight but obviously has some miles on it..maybe a syringe past the seals? or piercing the end cup? im not sure if there are channels thru the center of the staked ujoint like one with a grease fitting would have...

[outlawmws]

I don't think the 1/2" would make any difference whatsoever, even if not lifted. What matters is not bottoming the DS out, as that will BREAK the U-Joint. (ask me how I know...)

On the lubing, I know the inner surface of the cup is hard so the needles don't wear it out fast. I'm NOT sure about the cup but I do plan to try center drilling one in my drill press to see of it would work. Then a Zerk could be installed. It may take a carbide drill? :cnfsd:

Also, if the long end is the "dead": end" you MAY be able to swap the tube? BUT make sure the two ends a "clocked" as having the 2 out of phase, even just a little will kill the joints.

I did my Short Samurai DS for a reason however, I wanted the joints replaceable as I can easily carry spare joints; a whole DS is big, and generally messy even if cleaned.. (greasy splines and even the joints will leak over time)

[boogieman]

im doing some spring/suspension work soon and will play with the previa driveshaft while the spings are out and can replicate full compression of the driveshaft with the axle on the bump stops...will report back..what will also bottom out a driveshaft is TOO MUCH GREASE!! theres one zerk fitting and everyones good intentions can really backfire basically hydrolocking the shaft...my van came to me like this and my buddies old T100 im working on...

i carry one of the rockford style ujoints with inner clips but yeah, it would be a tough in the field repair..

[boogieman]

10737

happy to report, on the bumpstops which definitely looks like the shortest distance the driveshaft will see, there is still some play, couple hundred thousands, on a fully compressed previa alltrac rear driveshaft...if using one i would definitely remove the zerk and compress fully before installing, but i see no really issue with this....tc output flange seal replaced....now on to fj80 spring swap...

[Lois85]

Hey there--
I have had an 85 van for a few years now, I have done a few things to her, but never anything with the steering or underbelly. She feels a bit wobbly sometimes on the highway and I am wondering when you know you need to start replacing things? What are the signs or sounds? I am slightly paranoid because I have had a couple of scary moments with her (the country homes pop-top ripping off on a two lane highway far far from home, and the front drive shaft falling out on the highway closer to home).
Any guidance would be much appreciated :)

[boogieman]

front driveshaft falling out?!?@? yikes, that sounds extremely dangerous...cars have been known to pole vault when that happens..i suggest taking it to a shop..once up on a lift things can be inspected and advice given...hopefully theres some place close to where you live..

[outlawmws]

Hey there--
I have had an 85 van for a few years now, I have done a few things to her, but never anything with the steering or underbelly. She feels a bit wobbly sometimes on the highway and I am wondering when you know you need to start replacing things? What are the signs or sounds? I am slightly paranoid because I have had a couple of scary moments with her (the country homes pop-top ripping off on a two lane highway far far from home, and the front drive shaft falling out on the highway closer to home).
Any guidance would be much appreciated :)


front driveshaft falling out?!?@? yikes, that sounds extremely dangerous...cars have been known to pole vault when that happens..i suggest taking it to a shop..once up on a lift things can be inspected and advice given...hopefully theres some place close to where you live..


I think I agree. Unless you are conversant with inspecting suspension and Steering, a competent (and Honest) shop can provide invaluable advice.

These rigs ARE on a recall for the front steering gearbox. You can google it and get informed from Toyota if yours has been corrected. If not, you can schedule a visit to the local Toyota dealership and they will inspect the box, re-lube it and replace the suspect seal - I did this on mine just because. Mine did not need the box replaced.

The benefit is they invariably do a safety inspection (Do NOT pay for this, or authorize any extra work - If they "volunteer" it and try to charge - contest it - on another recall, on another car, the dealership removed the unauthorized charges...) That safety inspection will tell you - for free - what is in need of fixing, and you DON'T have to use them to fix it.

[Burntboot]

85 van are 2WD only, as such they do not have a "front driveshaft", perhaps the front joint failed on the rear shaft??
The only way I could imagine a pop top coming off at speed is if it wasn't locked down, or the locks were broken.
No matter
Generally things should be quiet, anything that goes bump, clunk, grind, whirr or crack, needs to be inspected ASAP
Any vehicle should be inspected when first purchased and at least once a year after that.
If you are unable to do so yourself you need a qualified garage that you trust.

All garages need to earn money to survive and an honest shop deserves to thrive.
Working for free doesn't keep anyone in business and a free inspection is worth exactly what you pay for it.
The whole purpose of a free inspection is to generate paid work for the shop and there is a slight conflict of interest there.
Paying for a proper inspection should get you a less biased report and a proper list of needs, in order of necessity,
rather than a cherry picked list of easy profit generators.

The only other option is to learn how to do it yourself, the best part of that is you will never have another unexpected failure.
Because you will have looked at that recently, or heard it or last time you were in there, you noted something and ordered the parts in anticipation of today.....

85 van should have a steering box, complete with drag link and idler arm.
86> vans have a bevel gear and steering rack
There was a recall on the bevel gear only, does not apply to the box and is vin specific.

[Headhunter38]

Spicer 5-3202x u joints also work as a staked in replacement for the 4wd manuals. They are an alternate part option to the rockford 430-10s or Neapco 1-0430s https://www.actionmachineinc.com/products/430-10?variant=28961593294900. I just finished installing a pair of them on my 87 4wd manual on the rear driveshaft and they fit. I completed a short trip of about 150 highway miles and i didnt notice any vibrations. So Spicers can also be used as an option instead of replacing the whole shaft or instead of rockfords. they are also only 25 bucks a piece on summit.

[outlawmws]

Headhunter, How did you get past the staking?

[Headhunter38]

with a harbor freight press https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html just pressed on the caps until the stakes snapped. worked quite well and went better than i thought it. if you do it like that i would make sure to put a spacer in between the ears to support them while pressing. while i didnt, i would use a spacer if i had to do it again, it could bend your ears if you dont. i would also grind away as much of the stakes witha dremel too if i were to redo/do another driveshaft.

[MartyVanFly]

Can anyone tell me the output shaft angle of the motor?

I have installed an electric motor in place of the ICE and have the new electric motor and trans are sitting a little higher than OEM making my output shaft and driveline parallel. A mismeasurement on my part when fabricating my electric motor mount.

After some testing I was getting some binding while decelerate and off throttle. The rear axle could be diving down too. I need to match the angle of the outshaft and pinion in the rear diff and make them parallel. Could someone help me? I have a carb referee appointment soon and need it running properly for the inspection.

Thanks,

Christopher

[outlawmws]

If you are getting binding I suspect you are bottoming out the sliding spline, or its getting too "tippy fingers".

Those angles are not that critical, and not being parallel; well any load will eliminate that in a hurry. (rear squat...) So will a rear only lift.

Another possibility is too much angle on the U-joint itself? Is this a 4WD with a lift?