Fuel rail torque spec?

[Jlhollowx13]

I'm replacing my injectors and there is no torque spec for the fuel rail in the FSM. Can anyone help?

[timsrv]

Near the end of the service manual in the "B" section there's a torque chart. It shows you how to identify the class of bolt, then on the next page it tells you torque based on diameter & class. If you're using the electronic FSM go to PDF page 981 & 982. The nut/bolt for mounting the fuel rail are class 4T 6 mm which S/B torqued to 52 inch lbs. Just make sure all injector 0-rings are lubed and all injectors rotate before/during cranking it down and torquing.

Another thing that's good to do is pressure test before installing the upper intake. Once the rail/injectors are all assembled plug off the cold start injector port, then pressurize the rail. Just put a jumper wire in the Fuel Pump Test Connector port and turn the key to "Run" (don't try to start). I learned the hard way to always do this. It really sucks to find a leak AFTER the engine is fully assembled. Tim

[Jlhollowx13]

Near the end of the service manual in the "B" section there's a torque chart. It shows you how to identify the class of bolt, then on the next page it tells you torque based on diameter & class. If you're using the electronic FSM go to PDF page 981 & 982. The nut/bolt for mounting the fuel rail are class 4T 6 mm which S/B torqued to 52 inch lbs. Just make sure all injector 0-rings are lubed and all injectors rotate before/during cranking it down and torquing.

Another thing that's good to do is pressure test before installing the upper intake. Once the rail/injectors are all assembled plug off the cold start injector port, then pressurize the rail. Just put a jumper wire in the Fuel Pump Test Connector port and turn the key to "Run" (don't try to start). I learned the hard way to always do this. It really sucks to find a leak AFTER the engine is fully assembled. Tim


Thanks for that tip. That would have been handy when I did my head gasket as I had a leaky injector and had to disassemble. I ran the test and didn't see any leaks, just heard some stuff working, almost like a spraying sound but no visible leaks. Im assuming it's supposed to sound like that.

[timsrv]

Yes, when the pump comes on you will hear the sound of the fuel flowing through the fuel rail and out through the regulator (it's a continuous circle). That sound is verification that the pump is pumping and there's pressure in the system. If you hear gas flowing and there are no leaks, then you're golden :thmbup:. I will usually let it run like that for up to 5 minutes as smaller leaks might take a couple minutes to reveal themselves. Tim

[Jlhollowx13]

Yes, when the pump comes on you will hear the sound of the fuel flowing through the fuel rail and out through the regulator (it's a continuous circle). That sound is verification that the pump is pumping and there's pressure in the system. If you hear gas flowing and there are no leaks, then you're golden :thmbup:. I will usually let it run like that for up to 5 minutes as smaller leaks might take a couple minutes to reveal themselves. Tim

Thanks, I only let it run for maybe 30 Seconds to a minute, but I've already installed the manifold. I've only got it secured by the mounting points and to the other half but I'll recheck for longer and if a leak occurs it won't be too much to pull it back off. Thanks for the help!!

[timsrv]

No problem. 30 seconds to a minute is probably enough. Any big leaks for sure would have shown up. Assembly errors or defective o-rings will typically render large leaks. Small leaks are not very typical, but are possible. My guess is that you're in good shape. Tim