The Space Toaster Stopped Running

[89TownAce]

So yeah I had just posted a lot of updates about my van and today she died.

Basically I had been driving on the freeway for about 60 miles when I noticed I was losing engine power. I had to downshift to 4th and stay in the slow lane. With my foot to the floor the best I could do was probably 50-55 mph. It was troublesome, but I had a theory about what was happening so I wasn't too concerned. Then as I made a left turn at my offramp the van just died. I tried to restart while rolling, but no luck. I did get lucky however that there was a gas station right there and I just rolled into a parking spot. The van was towed to my office and will likely be here until after Christmas as I'm low on funds for now. My temp gauge never went past halfway. There is no evidence of oil in the coolant or vice versa. There are no oil or fuel leaks whatsoever. It acts like it's out of gas, but the tank is nearly full.

So as many already know I had turned up the fuel pressure on my pump a few months ago, which ended up overheating the turbo and exhaust manifold. I replaced the turbo, machined the manifold and turned the fuel pressure back to stock. The van ran well, but there was a ticking sound I'd never noticed before. I also still was getting black smoke out of the exhaust and engine power was much higher than original. Thinking that maybe the repair shop messed with the fuel pump I decided to turn it another 1/2 turn towards the lean side. This reduced smoke and power (which is what I wanted), but there was still a small amount of smoke and that ticking sound. So on Saturday I added Liqui Moly diesel additive to the fuel in hopes that this would clean the valves to reduce the ticking. As I was losing power on the fwy the thought occurred to me that perhaps this fuel additive was cleaning the fuel pump and dislodged a stuck plunger, slowly cutting off my fuel supply (because of my ultra lean setting). So the first thing I tried to get my van started was once again turn that fuel screw towards the rich side (about 5/16 of a turn, clockwise). This didn't help.

So as it sits right now and I have a perfectly good looking engine and fluids, but it simply won't start. I've checked the fuses under the dash and all are good. There was no other symptoms before it died other than losing power. Before it died it had plenty of power, but just felt more sluggish than usual. It actually felt just a tad slower than when it was stock. The ticking, if anything was quieter than before today and I wasn't smoking at all. In fact, before it lost power I was very happy with how it was running. I felt that the Liqui Moly was really helping.

I'm now searching AceAnswers and so far my main theory is the EGR valve is clogged. I'm going to try bypassing that tonight and see if she'll start. If not, then I need to figure out how to do a compression test on a diesel. I have a compression gauge, but I've never used it on a diesel, I assume you use the glow plug port. I don't know what pressure it's supposed to have, but I'll just be looking for even pressure on all 4 cylinders. If I have low pressure then I'll probably have to pull the head eventually and inspect the gasket, head, pistons and rings. I hope it's something simple really.

[89TownAce]

So digging a little deeper I discovered a white wire that has a single black blade connector on the end, near the alternator, that is not attached to anything. I'm wondering if this wire came loose when I turned the corner. Maybe it's the source of my dash christmas lights too. Does anyone have any clue what this wire is for and where it connects? I don't see any single blade connectors on the alternator and there's nothing else in the area electrical. :dizzy:

[89TownAce]

Alrighty then so turns out that wire us actually yellow and black. According to the wiring diagrams that's the IGN wire from the alternator. I also discovered that the wiring harness to the alternator had been totally cut out and basically all the wires are just cut and have never been attached to the alternator. I don't even know how the charging system has been working like this. Obviously this yellow wire was the only thing keeping it running and it looks to have fallen out of the alternator plug area where the harness is supposed to be. I'm going to make a new harness and hopefully that solves all electrical issues.

[Gunflint]

Man. Good Luck. As always let us know how it turns out....hopefully you are onto something with your investigations and you can get her back on the road easy and ASAP!

Matt

[89TownAce]

Looks like I'm going to be stuck for sometime on this one. I currently do not know why she's not starting. My theory on a disconnected alternator wire may be correct, but the plot thickens significantly.

It appears I do not have the original alternator in my van. At some point, someone cut the original wiring harness going to the original alternator and only used 1 wire from it to attach to the new alternator. The wire they used is BLUE. If anyone has the wiring diagram for a 1989 TownAce, could you try to find out what the solid blue wire going to the alternator does? There is only 1 other wire connected to the alternator and it is the heavy gauge battery wire. The OEM alternator used 4 wires. My setup is using only 2 wires. That definitely explains my random dash lights.

There is another wire, which came from the same wiring loom as the alternator wiring harness, yet is separate from it. It is a YELLOW wire. My initial theory seemed to fit perfectly with finding this disconnected yellow wire. It would make sense that as I made the left turn, the loose bundle of wires knocked this yellow wire off of it's connector. However, I cannot find any base spade connectors anywhere that this yellow wire could have reached. I researched alternators and found the yellow wire is often the ignition wire. I then researched the alternator in my van and found which connector is the ignition wire. The next discovery completely blew my mind. The plug on the back of the alternator is capped off! There's no way this yellow wire could have been attached to the alternator.

So I've come to terms that somehow my van has been running with only a 2 wire alternator setup. I really don't see how that's possible, but I must accept it. I still feel that this yellow wire is meant to be connected somewhere.

If anyone with a TownAce could take a look to see where this yellow wire goes on their van I'd really appreciate it. I'm hoping it's simply a matter of plugging it back in...wherever it goes. Thanks.

[originalkwyjibo]

If not, then I need to figure out how to do a compression test on a diesel. I have a compression gauge, but I've never used it on a diesel, I assume you use the glow plug port. I don't know what pressure it's supposed to have, but I'll just be looking for even pressure on all 4 cylinders.

Assuming you can come up with adapters to make it fit, you'll likely destroy your compression tester unless it's designed for diesels. Normal cylinder pressure should be around 400 psi. Diesels without electronic controls are pretty simple engines. Air fuel and compression and they will run. Do things wrong and many of them are even capable of running backwards. Don't worry this isn't common and takes some doing to happen I just wanted to point out their simplicity of operation. The fuel system has some type of shutoff which will likely be either an electric or vacuum solenoid on the injector pump. Sometimes there is a lift pump incorporated into the injector pump and sometimes it's separate. The lift pumps job is to supply the injector pump with fuel at around 5 psi. The injector pump then supplies the injectors with fuel at 1500-2000 psi. Try cranking the engine with the throttle fully depressed. If it doesn't start you should at least get whitish smoke from the tailpipe. If you don't get smoke then you are not getting fuel. A compression test is usually done through the glow plug hole but sometimes the injector hole. It depends on the application. You'll need a diesel compression set with adapters. FYI, if you used the Liqui Moly "Diesel Purge" it works best if you disconnect the fuel and return lines and put them into the bottle or use a clear plastic bottle and run it on just the product. You then want to shut it off when it's gone but before the engine stalls so you don't run the fuel system dry. Hope this helps get it back on the road.

[89TownAce]

I discovered what the yellow wire is. It's the oil pressure indicator. Now I just have to find the oil pressure sensor on the engine to re-attach it. I found out by putting 12v+ to it and the oil lamp lit up on my dash.

This clarifies that the issue is not related to the alternator.

Based on the gradual loss in power combined with zero odor of fuel and zero smoke on starting attempts I am convinced the engine is starved of fuel.

That Liqui Moly must have somehow clogged my fuel system. First thing to try is backing my van uphill and letting gravity provide fuel backpressure to the pump. That has worked in the past for me.

[89TownAce]

I put a new fuel filter on, finally got it primed, but I can't get fuel through the fuel pump. I can only access to the top 2 fuel lines on the back of the pump and I don't think that's enough to bleed all the air out of the system. I'd back off the injectors themselves, but they're even harder to get at.

Going to take another crack at it tonight. I feel bad for my starter, I hope it holds up after this.

[originalkwyjibo]

You have to bleed at the injector. It's the only way to get all the air out. I believe you should have a hand primer pump somewhere in the system either near the filter or the injection pump. This is for bleeding the filter, injection pump reservoir, and return lines. Pump this until you feel the pressure change then open all four injector lines at the injector about one full turn. Next disable the glow plugs and crank the engine for about twenty seconds at a time until fuel begins to bubble out of each injector connection. Make sure to give the starter a break between cranking intervals. Once you get fuel at the injectors, tighten the connection, clean up any mess, reconnect the glow plugs and it should fire. It may have to crank a little before it fires and will probably run rough as it purges the remaining air but should smooth out within a minute or two. Again, be sure to give the starter a break. Diesel starts work hard and expensive to replace if you overheat one.

[89TownAce]

I tried that yesterday. I ended up opening the lines at each injector. Cranked for a good 30 seconds with a break in between. I never could get fuel to squirt out. Primer pump is hard. I primed so much that now it's leaking around the the pump plunger. Honestly it looks like the fuel pump is toast. I managed to get a couple drips from the lines at the injectors, but absolutely no pressure.

I'm going to try 3 more things then I think it's time to call this fuel pump DEAD. Finding a replacement will be virtually impossible so I'm hoping to find a rebuilder.

The first thing I'm going to check is voltage to the fuel cut-off solenoid. If that checks out OK then I'm going to use a little starting fluid to see if a running engine will help get the fuel pumping. If that doesn't work then I'm going to crank up the fuel pressure on the pump and try again. If that doesn't work then I'm all out of ideas and the hunt for a pump rebuilder will be on.

[89TownAce]

OK I've got a promising lead on the issue. The fuel shutoff solenoid. I'm actually pretty certain this is the issue. I pulled the old one off and there was a lot of debris around it...looks like it got really hot. I'm also thinking that's what my ticking sound was...the solenoid just rattling back and forth until finally it failed. Odd thing is it still functions with 12v, but I think somehow it's not working properly. I found the P/N it's 22390-6A511 and they're about $150 online.

Crossing my fingers!

[Gunflint]

Man good luck! Thanks for keeping us all up to date!

Matt

[89TownAce]

Pretty melancholy update here. I'm about 95% sure it's not the fuel solenoid. I bench tested it some more and it's working well. I re-installed it, then ran a bypass wire directly from the battery and tried starting the van again...no dice. I'm still getting zero pressure to the injectors. Basically I can crack all 4 injector fittings and I get no fuel spitting out when cranking. Lines are purged really good.

So basically that leaves the fuel injection pump. It really ticks me off too because I just spend $1000 getting that pump leak free.

Update within an update: I found a shop in Oregon willing to rebuild the pump. I guess it's time to get my hands really dirty and pull that bastard pump off. Wish me luck.

[Gunflint]

You get that fuel pump off?

Matt

[89TownAce]

I found a place locally that is going to pull the pump off, rebuild it and re-install/time it, but I've been crazy busy for the last few weeks and have no time to coordinate anything. Just moved into a bigger house and it's going to take weeks to settle in. Early January I'll have it towed to the shop.

[89TownAce]

Wow talk about a slow process here. Well the shop I took it to (United Diesel in South El Monte, CA) has basically had it sitting in the back of their shop since around xmas. I got the feeling they were feeding me BS about the progress, which was pretty much confirmed when last week they finally told me that the injection pump drive gear was completely sheared off and that they had been searching for a replacement with no luck. I was a little dismayed because if they had just told me this sooner I could have been searching myself. It took me less than 24 hours to source an OEM brand new gear from Toyota. I delivered the gear this morning to them.

Now I had asked them about the repair cost and they were listing all these hours for pump dismantling, removal, install, etc. Then I found out today that they haven't even opened the pump at all and that all they have found so far is the broken gear. I'm crossing my fingers the pump is still working correctly. If so, then they should only be charging me the labor to remove and re-install/time the pump. I'm preparing for a battle, but from what I've just seen they don't have much to stand on. The last shop that removed and re-installed my pump charged me 8 hours of labor (which I have the receipts for) so I expect them not to charge me any more.

I'm hoping they get their act together and have my van up and running sometime next week. I miss my van SO MUCH it's driving me crazy.

[Toyolo_Camper]

I'm having fuel issues as well... your story sounds similar to mine.

Any update to how it concluded?

[88LiteAcegxl4wd]

did you get this running?
I am in cypress with my liteace and have a parts van ( 90 liteace ) at my rental house if you want to look at how they are in
the parts van has had the alternator removed but my 88 liteace that is running is allyours too look at and see if you can make sense of it all

scott
714-471-5172