Had to use longer bolt for transmission pan drain plug, stripping? Issues?

[NewVanOwner]

Hi everyone,

I recently picked up a nice 1988 automatic with 157K. Transmission works nicely. Fluid was tan/brownish. Decided to do a few drain a fills.

When I went to remove the drain plug, it came out with lots of resistance, like previous install was cross threaded. Sure enough, it wouldn't lock fully back in, kept spinning at the end. I went to the dealer, got a new bolt, same issue.

So, I found another bolt in my supplies that I was able to screw in. It's longer. It goes in with some resistance and a little free spin. But, it locks down well at the end, and with a an aluminum, rubber-coated gasket, there are no leaks.

I've done three drain and fills.

I have two concerns, please share your thoughts...

1. The bolt is longer. I wonder if it is hitting anything above it. It doesn't seem to be. But, are there any low-hanging pipes?

2. All the screw in and out has possible created some metal shards/flakes (if they weren't there already from the previous owner. If this has happened, is it cause for concern to have them circulate and damage the transmission?

Ultimately I'll probably get a new pan. But, I'd like to know if I am risking damage driving now.

Thanks.



Left is a bolt similar to the one I used. Right is the OEM plug (replacement one from the dealer which didn't work).



http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa153/RandomDestiny4/20150920_164322_zpsfeakf8nn.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/RandomDestiny4/media/20150920_164322_zpsfeakf8nn.jpg.html)



http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa153/RandomDestiny4/20150920_164256_zps7bagjdqm.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/RandomDestiny4/media/20150920_164256_zps7bagjdqm.jpg.html)

[JDM VANMAN]

Just my 2¢ and another point of view-


1) if your concerned about the longer bolt then maybe stick your pinky or something in the drain hole to feel how much room is in there?

2) and if your concerned about the metal shavings in the pan then maybe drain and fill a few more times?

On my automatic transmission van I had the transmission dropped and torque converter pulled and turned over, shook around in attempt to remove the fluid that's inside there cause there's no drain plug for the T/C. And then it was filled, cycled, and drained 3 times to get it close to clean. I just recently hit 20,000 miles since that treatment and just had it drained and cycled 16 quarts of fluid thru it to give it a good cleaning again.

That might be overkill but that's my baby and always get the best preventative maintenance when required.

As as for the drain screw spinning and not locking in place it might be easier and less expensive to tap and rethread a new screw instead of getting a whole new pan.

Good luck!!!:thmbup:

[Burntboot]

The threads on the "new" plug look completely buggered.
If it were me, I would get the appropriate Heli-Coil repair kit and a DP seal and plug, then the next time your doing a dump, install the new parts.
I would use red Loctite on the repair coil just to help make sure it stays in place.

If your worried about filings, just flush it out with some fresh fluid, short of dropping the pan, thats all you can do.
Then again, dropping the pan would allow you to clean/replace the filter and do a better job on the thread repair as you'll be able to ensure there is no oil present to contaminate the Loctite. (and you won't have to worry about where the tang goes when you snap it off)
BB

[NewVanOwner]

Appreciate the responses so far. Thanks.

I will need to either repair or replace the pan eventually. My main concern now is whether I can safely drive it. Would any metal filings be trapped by the screen?

I've drained and filled a few times now, each with that longer bolt. So, hopefully that flushed a little, but since it screws in with resistance, I don't don't if I am creating new shards each time, lol.

I should have check for clearance with a metal rod (pinkie wouldn't fit), but in all my efforts I didn't. My mistake. Transmission is functioning well with it installed.

[Burntboot]

NVO - the filter mounts to the bottom of the valve body, somewhere around the height of the pan gasket, the pan itself is the sump so I wouldn't worry to much about clearance for your longer bolt, worst case, it will impact the screen but I would think you would feel that as you tighten it by hand.
Hiding inside the pan should be a magnet for the sole purpose of catching anything that may be detrimental to the internals.
If it were me, I would plan on having all the bits on hand ready for the next time around, so that everything goes smoothly and you attain peace of mind.
BB