Van sputtering/jerking a little at all speeds

[AnotherUser]

My van started to kind of sputter or jerk at various times, sometimes starting in first and getting speed, or while I am in 5th at high speeds I notice a high speed stutter. There is a small power loss at times, but I am still able to get it up to highway speeds.

The van is a daily driver, often 40+ miles per day on windy 55mph roads. The progression of this problem happened fairly fast in one day and has stayed about the same for the last 2 weeks. Driving throughout the day it will be worse a certain times then others, although I don't see any patterns as far as engine being warm or cold.

When I listen to the van idling from the tailpipe there will be a slight pop every couple seconds. Not a loud pop, but almost a bubble sounding pop.

There are no problems starting it and it idles fine without stalling

Van: 86, 2wd

New parts since this problem:

Spark plugs (still using the same wires, the casing looks good)
Cap and rotor
New air filter

The fuel filter was replaced about a year ago.

Thanks for any advice.

[Burntboot]

Have you checked for stored codes yet?
BB

[AnotherUser]

Have you checked for stored codes yet?
BB

I just checked it, and it was pulsing 5 times and pausing and then pulsing 5 times and repeating. According to this pdf code guide (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1045&d=1374387216) for my van it seems to be:

Oxygen sensor signal - Open circuit in oxygen sensor signal (only lean indication).
Trouble area:
1. Oxygen sensor circuit
2. Oxygen sensor
3. ECU

2908

[Burntboot]

o2 sensors are relatively cheap and don't last forever, it would be worth tossing a new one in and re-evaulating.
Understanding of course, that the computer can only interpret the signals it gets from sensors.

Many things can cause a lean condition, like, say the intake tube is breaking down (cracks in the bellows folds-very common issue) and allowing unmetered air into the system, the computer has no sensor for that but it will cause a lean mixture condition. The o2 sensor will alter the fuel trim to compensate but once things go beyond its capability to adjust the trim sufficiently, that code would show up as a failed o2.
So the sensor may fix things, but you should be prepared to dig deeper, if needed.

One last point, if you use RTV style sealants that they be labelled o2 sensor safe (sometimes referred to as "low-door")
It only takes one small dab of the wrong stuff to cause sensor failure.
BB

[AnotherUser]

o2 sensors are relatively cheap and don't last forever, it would be worth tossing a new one in and re-evaulating.

Thanks. I bought a new Bosch o2 sensor for $35. I wans't able to remove the bolts with the socket I had because there was a support brace in the way on the far bolt. I am going to buy a 12mm ratcheting box wrench to try and get in there. If anyone has tips on what tool to get in there and change it out, it would be appreciated.

[saucymonkey]

I would definitely take a good look at your air intake tube.

[AnotherUser]

o2 sensors are relatively cheap and don't last forever, it would be worth tossing a new one in and re-evaulating.
Understanding of course, that the computer can only interpret the signals it gets from sensors.

I put a new o2 sensor in and it doesn't seem to make a difference


I would definitely take a good look at your air intake tube.

From what I could see they look good


Any other ideas? Thanks

[Burntboot]

So you have replaced the o2, did you erase codes and recheck to see if anything else has popped up?
If you're still having an o2 fault (after clearing the stored codes) show up, then you will want to check the wiring for continuity between the o2 plug and the ECU.
There have been a couple of ECU replacements, but I would want to do the proper diagnosing before pulling that trigger.

When you say "they" in reference to the intake boot, what exactly are YOU referring to? (there is only one that matters)
What SM is referring to is the intake tube from airflow meter to throttle body, they fail in 2 places, in the folds of the bellows and at the base where the metal vacuum fitting mates at the bottom of the tube. The only way to know for SURE is to remove the tube and carefully inspect it, inside and out, the cracks like to hide and it is easy to miss if one isn't careful.
(actually there is a 3rd possibility for failure, some people get over zealous with new metal clamps and although it is all tight the gear clamps can cut the boot and cause a nearly impossible to find cut unless you actually take it off.)
For the record, if the boot is bad, when the engine torques, it twists towards the right side of the van, stretching the boot and sucking in air.
(a blown out LS motor mount often exacerbates the issue)

A visual inspection of the wires won't tell you if they are breaking down.
Old school would be to mist water over the wires/cap, best if done when dark as it is easier to see the arcing, and if it doesn't arc/stumble they're probably okay.
The scientific way would be to check resistance of the individual wires.

Also make sure that the cap gasket is securely in place (water test should verify that, hopefully)
Are the cap and rotor OEM parts?
I have seen A/M rotors that are junk right out of the box, same with caps
(many AM rotors will rely on the contact spring to maintain orientation with the shaft but I have seen them where you can actually turn the rotor about 10-15* on the shaft without the shaft moving, something like that makes a diagnosis even more difficult)

Did this problem start out of the blue or did it happen coincidently after doing something else?

BB

[AnotherUser]

When you say "they" in reference to the intake boot, what exactly are YOU referring to? (there is only one that matters)
What SM is referring to is the intake tube from airflow meter to throttle body, they fail in 2 places, in the folds of the bellows and at the base where the metal vacuum fitting mates at the bottom of the tube. The only way to know for SURE is to remove the tube and carefully inspect it, inside and out, the cracks like to hide and it is easy to miss if one isn't careful.

I did remove the intake tube that goes to the throttle body and there appears to be a small crack in between the bellows. I am not able to see through it, but there is a crack there. I called Napa Auto Parts and asked for an air intake tube and they couldn't find one.

What is the proper wording for this part? Isn't the air intake tube the tube on the bottom of the air filter?

Can you recommend where I can buy this online?

Thanks for your replies and help

[llamavan]

What is the proper wording for this part? Isn't the air intake tube the tube on the bottom of the air filter?

Can you recommend where I can buy this online?

Toyota P/N 17881-73020 HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1

These have gone up since the last time I purchased — $84.59 at the discounted price — but a new one is sooooo worth it! :yes: Take good care of a new one and it'll be the last one you need to buy.

I order mine through LithiaToyotaParts.com only because they are local to me and I can pick stuff up there without paying shipping. Or rather, I send someone else in to pick up for me because they flood their facility with neurotoxic chemicals aka "air freshener". :dizzy:

Folks have mentioned a number of sites such as 1ssttoyotaparts.com, toyotapartsdeal.com, toyotapartsoverstock.com. These all seem to use the same parts catalog engines and AFAIK have the same discount prices or close to it ... the differences (sometimes huge) tends to lie in the shipping calculators.

Gwen

[IronViking]

I had to put silicon in some of the folds to seal the cracks on my intake hose. Ive seen others that were wrapped in duct tape too. If thats the issue its a quick fix till you get a new hose.

[AnotherUser]

After waiting a couple weeks, I got the air intake tube in the mail.

I installed it and drove around a bit and it seems to be having the same issues.


So you have replaced the o2, did you erase codes and recheck to see if anything else has popped up?
If you're still having an o2 fault (after clearing the stored codes) show up, then you will want to check the wiring for continuity between the o2 plug and the ECU.
There have been a couple of ECU replacements, but I would want to do the proper diagnosing before pulling that trigger.
BB

After clearing the codes, there don't seem to be any error codes. It is blinking on for a second followed by off for about 5 seconds than on for a second then off for 5 seconds.

[AnotherUser]

Anyone have any other ideas? I experienced a lot of power loss today trying to go up a hill, I maxed out at about 40 mph, while normally going 60+ wouldn't be an issue. My van is sputtering a lot. Seems worse at times, but I can't find a pattern with engine temp or weather etc.

[bigeo]

over the years, the "runability" issues I have had that caused the type of symptoms you describe are: Bad air intake hose (sounds like you eliminated that one), bad coil (it's
inside the distributor), bad distributor. They all caused intermittent symptoms and were a pita to track down.

[AnotherUser]

Should there be an open hole in the distributor next to the ignition coil? It seem to be letting in moisture.

Here is a picture:

3142

[Burntboot]

When I first got Red, it had intermittent weird running problems, somewhat similar to your issues.
I found out why when I decided to do a tune-up and found one of the cap mounting screws had been sheared off.
I had to drill out the remainder and re-tap the hole, no issues since.

I do not believe that hole is supposed to be there, but it does look rather round, can't imagine anyone drilling a hole in the dizzy??
I would plug that hole and reassemble, that should solve your drivability issues will then be solved.

I have run into vented caps before (Jag V-12) but they are vented to the intake, not open atmosphere.

[AnotherUser]

I do not believe that hole is supposed to be there, but it does look rather round, can't imagine anyone drilling a hole in the dizzy??

It was a one owner van before I bought it a couple years ago and the guy always took it in to reputable mechanics and had receipts for everything. Didn't seem to be any poor DIY work on it or anything to suggest that he would drill a hole into it to try and make a quick fix out of something.

I was hoping to see a diagram of the part to figure out what might have been in that hole

[amcneill]

did you ever find the solution to your problem? im having similar issues....worrying that it may be the aftermarket distributor causing my issues.