Washer issues

[wayoffline]

I have a 1987 4wd cargo on which the front windshield washers had not worked since I bought the van a few months ago. When the button was depressed you could hear the pump working but no juice to the windshield.

Today i decided to pull the access panel and figure out what the problem was. Once I had access, I pulled the whole reservoir out. There are two pumps at the bottom of the tank- one for the front washers and one for the rear. The pump for the rear washers appears to make an uninterrupted shot to the rear squirter. The front one, however, detours and goes through something that the van manual refers to as the washer change valve which sits on top of the tank along with a relay. The manual has inspection procedures for both of these items. My relay was working to spec, but the washer change valve was not opening properly which in turn does not allow fluid to get from the pump to the windshield.

I decided to try bypassing the valve since the pump works perfectly on it's own. It was as simple as unplugging both lines from the valve and then plugging those two lines together. The fittings are such that I didn't even need to add or remove any
bits. Presto! Front squirters firing!

The valve is still available new for something like $50. As far as I can tell, it's soul purpose is to keep fluid from draining out of the lines and back into the tank. I would guess this would make the response time a little quicker (although it doesn't take more than a a second or two for the fluid to travel the length of the van) and
would save a little wear and tear on the pump. Am I missing something? Unless there is a bigger reason for this valve, I am inclined to leave it the way it is and save myself $50.

[timsrv]

I did exactly the same thing on mine. I don't use that squirter very often anyhow so waiting a few extra seconds is no big deal. The irony of the whole thing is that valve probably wouldn't get stuck if you used the sprayers all the time. Sitting over time without use can cause the soap to dry on the little check valve there and it gets stuck in the closed position. Blowing compressed air through it will sometimes be enough to get it unstuck, but then it's prone to stick again. Here's what I think about $50 for that part: :roflmao: :LOLabv:. Tim

[wayoffline]

Thanks Tim. Glad to hear I won't miss it.

I left the wiring connected to the relay and the valve. Did you leave yours that way as well? I figured it wouldn't hurt anything for the relay to continue to open and close even if it isn't doing anything useful.

[timsrv]

It was a long time ago, but I think I left it hooked up. Aside from the fluid taking a few seconds, it also dribbles out for a few seconds after I use it.

[Dogfish]

...Aside from the fluid taking a few seconds, it also dribbles out for a few seconds after I use it.

I've heard that can happen as one gets along in years...

[timsrv]

:rol: Yeah, it's a pretty long hose so there's lot's of fluid still in there even after I'm done :doh:.

[NEC]

I rebuilt my check solenoid. It has a steel piston in it bonded to a rubber seal. When not energized the spring pressure keeps the valve closed. The plating on the steel starts to flake/rust and the seal gets all crusty over time. I cut a piece of bicycle inner tube the size of the piston (about the diameter of a dime) and glued it on with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. I put everything back together and it has been working fine for about a year now.

[Cornato]

Yeah, mine had the same problem. I don't have a rear washer so I only had one pump. At first it looked like it was clogged cause it was sitting a while. So I disconnected the tubing and put some pressurized air through it, and it squirted fine. So I did like you said and it does take a second, but squirts ok. But only out of one nozzle and on that nozzzle out of one hole. Pretty weak...

[wayoffline]

I rebuilt my check solenoid. It has a steel piston in it bonded to a rubber seal. When not energized the spring pressure keeps the valve closed. The plating on the steel starts to flake/rust and the seal gets all crusty over time. I cut a piece of bicycle inner tube the size of the piston (about the diameter of a dime) and glued it on with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. I put everything back together and it has been working fine for about a year now.

I will give that a try. Something about having a non-functioning part just hanging out in my van bugs me. And I sure don't want any of Tim's dribble issues.

[ARP]

Well I don't know, as far as I know my valve is working fine yet it takes three or four squirts to get anything out, and then sometimes it just keeps squirting when you want it to stop - think that's maybe the button on the lever getting stuck pushed in.

[timsrv]

Hey ARP, put some beer in there then drop in one of your viagra tablets. That will get her going :LOL2:.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/3n03m33l65Vf5Tc5R49cb5aee9689f9c11e.jpg

[ARP]

Thanks Tim, I'll give it a try:thmbup:

[Harbilly]

And now for something embarrasing.......... While doing a bit of welding on the body at the rear of the van I never gave a thought to the washer fluid bottle.

I can only fill the bottle up half way now.

Just saying.

[wayoffline]

Well I was installing some new interior panels I made and pre drilling some holes for mounting screws when some mysterious blue liquid started spewing out. Doh! Out came the reservoir again. 2 part plastic epoxy sealed the hole just fine and while I had it all apart again I decided to take a shot at repairing the Change valve.

The bicycle inner tube trick works quite nicely! It took me a while to figure out that what opens the valve is an electromagnet. I tested two different valves (that i had opened up) by directly connecting them to the battery and expected to see some sort of mechanical plunger action. I thought I had two bad valves until one I was testing ended up in the vicinity of a loose screw. Cool!

No wait time for the squirters!

The only questionable part is re crimping the top back onto the valve. Mine looks a little iffy- hope it holds.

[fastcanoe]

I have a 1987 4wd cargo on which the front windshield washers had not worked since I bought the van a few months ago. When the button was depressed you could hear the pump working but no juice to the windshield.

Today i decided to pull the access panel and figure out what the problem was. Once I had access, I pulled the whole reservoir out. There are two pumps at the bottom of the tank- one for the front washers and one for the rear. The pump for the rear washers appears to make an uninterrupted shot to the rear squirter. The front one, however, detours and goes through something that the van manual refers to as the washer change valve which sits on top of the tank along with a relay. The manual has inspection procedures for both of these items. My relay was working to spec, but the washer change valve was not opening properly which in turn does not allow fluid to get from the pump to the windshield.

I decided to try bypassing the valve since the pump works perfectly on it's own. It was as simple as unplugging both lines from the valve and then plugging those two lines together. The fittings are such that I didn't even need to add or remove any
bits. Presto! Front squirters firing!

The valve is still available new for something like $50. As far as I can tell, it's soul purpose is to keep fluid from draining out of the lines and back into the tank. I would guess this would make the response time a little quicker (although it doesn't take more than a a second or two for the fluid to travel the length of the van) and
would save a little wear and tear on the pump. Am I missing something? Unless there is a bigger reason for this valve, I am inclined to leave it the way it is and save myself $50.



How do you gain access to this? Which access panel?

I think I have the same problem. I hear the pump working but nothing comes out.

[timsrv]

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1391-New-member-and-owner-of-an-89-4WD-Van!&p=8756#post8756

[ACTINGCASUAL]

I just did the quick fix, here's a video of what to switch


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVjaYEc0OKk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVjaYEc0OKk

[Bizcotch]

Sorry for hi-jacking. First time posting...hope I'm doing this right. I'm stripping the van down for paint. All was well until I got to the front windshield washer nozzles. Anyone know how to remove these suckers without breaking? Or am I going to have to dig through the dash :cnfsd:?

[timsrv]

Yeah, they suck. There's a clip on the backside that needs to be removed in order to get them off. And be careful........because these parts are NLA (No Longer Available). Tim

[Bizcotch]

Yeah, they suck. There's a clip on the backside that needs to be removed in order to get them off. And be careful........because these parts are NLA (No Longer Available). Tim
:cry:... thank you Sir, now I'm going back into the garage to cry before taking the dash apart.

[timsrv]

Most painters just mask and spray, but I always insist on taking them off (more professional). Tim

[Bizcotch]

Absolutely. I'm restoring my parent's old van that they bought new back in '87. It hasn't moved since '06. Was locked up in an old garage and forgotten. Got it up and running early this year(still runs great!). This September will mark 30 years when it was purchased. I have fond memories of it growing up. I still remember when we brought it home brand new from the dealership. So it's important that I do it right as best as I can. This is a great forum and I hope to contribute as much as I can. Thanks again. 5619:):silvervan:

[timsrv]

Awesome! Glad to have you here. If at all possible, please take lots of pics and post them here......but I'd recommend avoiding photobucket. Tim

[Carbonized]

Bizcotch, the washers nozzles, ( I call them Pissers :)) are definitely a "remove before paint" item. They often are a starting point for rust on vans that have spent their time outdoor (not your case) and are mounted over a small plastic base/gasket that drys up over time. Not to mention that after a couple coats of primer + base coat + clear coat, you end up with a pretty ugly build up against the edge of the masking tape.
They are an absolute PITA to remove, not only because you need to remove most of the dash but even after that, the access is restricted by the wiper system itself. The clip is a U shaped spring wire type that slide in and out.
Start with the passenger side as it has a little bit larger space for the hand and you can figure out the best way to proceed.
I use a long skinny flat screw driver and a magnet :wnk:: Find the closed end of the U clip (by feel), push the screw driver tip into it (against the steel of the "hood"), now and only now, stick the magnet to the shank of the screw driver and pry away slowly, grab the clip with fingers or needle nose pliers or such. Now the fun part: the driver side.
Dismount the wiper motor and drop down the wiper mechanism. From here on, its all blind work with finger tips, driver and magnet. Do not drop the clip here or it's GONE :wave1:Bye Bye forever in the jungle of electrical wiring below. Pull nozzle out of "hood" and disconnect clear hose (short and tight) from hose barb, do not let it go loose: use tape or wire so you can retrieve it later.
To reinstall, I use long needle nose plyers to insert the clip. I also have a surgical suture plier/tool that locks up on the clip. I tie a length of thin fishing line to the clip so if I drop it .... correction... when I drop it, I just fish it back and start again :yes:. Also you will need a assistant outside to push on the nozzle. TIP: give the assistant ear plugs so he or she doesn't have to ear you :anger: and :swear: 'cause you will!:yes:

[Bizcotch]

Bizcotch, the washers nozzles, ( I call them Pissers :))
:roflmao: Great info and tips! thank you Sir. I was really hoping that Toyota was nice enough to allow the "pissers" to be able to twist to right and pop out through a notch, but I guess that would've been too easy.:cry::dizzy::pissed::swear::wall::doh::cry::d runk:. I will definitely need a six pack after the removal process. Thanks again! I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes.

[Bizcotch]

Update... after 2hrs and 15mins of dash disassembly, they finally came out. I was joyous!! Thanks guys for the tips. Some WD40 helped as well. Now I'm off for some beer 5647

[Carbonized]

Enjoy the beer you have earned it!
Mine had clear hoses..? They must have been replaced before. Good thing about that is I could see the crud and deposits inside. white vinegar over night, and compressed air took care of that. Now have an easy time sanding and painting without the "pissers" in the way :thmbup:
Something else worth removing before paint is the antenna base, that thing is right at eye level.

[timsrv]

If your antenna is shot, just cut the wire and leave it behind........then use it to pull the new antenna wire after paint. If the antenna is good, then put a piece of safety wire (or similar) on the radio end before pulling it out. Then leave the safety wire in the hole and use it to pull the wire back when you're done. That saves a bunch of time and insures the wire follows the same path as before. Tim

[Bizcotch]

Thanks guys. A little too late about the antenna :doh:I had already taken it off before reading your replies. Did think about how I was going to route it back through the pillar.

Regarding the "pisser" hoses, I'm wondering why your van had clear ones while mine were black. I'm 100% sure they were never removed/replaced. Van was in the family since new and I do not ever remember dad messing with them...As a matter of fact he never did any of the maintenance himself. Mostly dealer. But I do know that toyotas used clear hoses in earlier models such as my 82 Tercel. :?:

[Carbonized]

I didn't question the clear hose then, (until I saw your pictures:LOL2:) The visible dirt inside them just prompted me to check the rest of the system. Every other hose but one was black rubber, including the tail gate. The only other clear hose and the inside of the tank 5648 where covered with the same crud as the front "pisser" hoses5649. So the cleaning lady went to work:5651.
Whoever swapped the black rubber hose for clear ones has my greatest thanks for they pushed my alarm button at the right time. One speck of the brown crap into the "pissers" and they would have to come back out again:yikes:.

All part of restoring, I guess :thmbup:

[bikerjosh]

You take any pictures of the disassembly? I am currently removing bumpers/trim etc to get the van teady for paint. Doing all the prep work/sanding to save some cash. Was just going to mask off the windshield nozzle towers.
Thanks Josh

[Bizcotch]

One speck of the brown crap into the "pissers" and they would have to come back out again:yikes:.

All part of restoring, I guess :thmbup:
wow!!! That came out nice! Looks like a new unit. I'm gonna have to start doing some cleaning of my own.
:thmbup::clap:

[Bizcotch]

You take any pictures of the disassembly? I am currently removing bumpers/trim etc to get the van teady for paint. Doing all the prep work/sanding to save some cash. Was just going to mask off the windshield nozzle towers.
Thanks Josh
Unfortunately I did not. I was too concerned and focused on not losing any screws and trying not to break anything. However, it looks more intimidating than it really is. I do suggest putting the screws into baggies and labeling each bag. TIP: remove the instrument cluster (very carefully), the cluster housing, glove box to access top dash pad screws. Pretty straightforward but still be conscious of hidden screws. Note: you'll have to remove the center plastic air ducts after removing the metal portion of the dash that is wedged between dash pad and glass. The piece I'm referring to has the vin number plate that's visible thru the windshield. It's held by several 10mm bolts (visible between glass and dash) and one Phillips screw on each end. Once you get to that point, you'll think that the nozzles (pissers) will be visible, but no. Unfortunately all the real fun begins at that very moment. I suggest using a small mirror to see the clips and orientation of the underside of the nozzles. I have small hands so it was easy for me to reach under there and wiggle the clip off. Spray a little wd40 if you can. This will allow for the clips to come out a little easier. Strongly suggest to remove the passenger side nozzle first. This will give you a good idea of how to best remove the tricky one on the drivers side. Again, i have smaller hands which allowed me to remove the driver side without unhooking the wiper mechanism.

For pics, I searched: "dashboard removal" http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?63-How-to-Remove-the-Dashboard&highlight=Dashboard+removal. Boom! Someone on here was nice enough to get into detail of how to remove the dash pieces with great pictures! Let me know if you find it. Good luck and may the force be with you.:wnk:

[Bizcotch]

Also...before taking off the instrument cluster dash shroud (cover), make sure to take the brake fluid reservoir cap off. It'll save you about 10minutes of figuring out why it won't come off.:wnk:

[HI_Beach_Van]

I originally wasn't able to wash either front or rear windows. I have replaced the washer pump and now I'm able to wash the front windscreen. When I press and hold the switch for the rear window, the wiper moves and works but no window fluid is dispensed. I don't hear that it is even trying to work. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

[originalkwyjibo]

There is a single reservoir but separate pumps for the front and rear. You may have a faulty rear pump as well.

[HI_Beach_Van]

There is a single reservoir but separate pumps for the front and rear. You may have a faulty rear pump as well.

Thanks for the reply. Are the two pumps interchangeable? Where would I find the rear pump? I might have known this information if I had a repair manual HAHAHA, but really I need a repair manual.

[jdweasel47]

It is the same pump for both front and rear, I recently changed mine. Less than $15 plus shipping from Rockauto. Both Pumps (Front and Rear) are attached to same washer fluid tank inside the van by the rear passenger tail light.




Windshield Washer Pump (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,windshield+washer+pump,8840)




https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/close.gifhttps://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/Print.gif (https://www.rockauto.com/en/printlistings.php?ni=409)https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/envelope.gif (https://www.rockauto.com/en/emailpagetofriend.php?nurl=%2Fen%2Fcatalog%2Ftoyot a%2C1987%2Cvan%2C2.2l%2Bl4%2C1279784%2Cwiper%2B%26 %2Bwasher%2Cwindshield%2Bwasher%2Bpump%2C8840) https://www.rockauto.com/Images/questionMark.png (https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=2)






Choose for Me to Minimize Cost (https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=2#MINSHIPCOST)

Related Parts









TOYOTA (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota) 1987 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987) VAN (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van) 2.2L L4 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784) Wiper & Washer (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer) Windshield Washer Pump (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,windshield+washer+pump,8840)

Price





TRICO 11603 Black Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=76062&cc=1279784)
Front

Choose:


[Wholesaler Closeout (https://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/answersTab2.html#closeout) -- 30 Day Warranty] ($7.09)












https://www.rockauto.com/info/159/Washer_Pumps_11-603__ra_t.jpg




$7.09






TRICO 11100 Black; Universal Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=76041&cc=1279784) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/Heart.png
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/159/Washer_Pumps_11-100__ra_t.jpg




$8.36






ACI 172872 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=273991&cc=1279784)

Fits
Front

Or
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/21/172872__ra_t.jpg




$11.25






ACDELCO 86700 {#89001112} Professional; Black; Universal Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371436&cc=1279784)
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/308/8-6700_Primary__ra_t.jpg




$13.48






ACDELCO 86721 {#89001133} Professional; Black Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371457&cc=1279784)
Front






https://www.rockauto.com/info/308/8-6721_Primary__ra_t.jpg




$18.82


















Wiper Blade (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,wiper+blade,8852)








Windshield Washer Pump (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,windshield+washer+pump,8840)




https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/close.gifhttps://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/Print.gif (https://www.rockauto.com/en/printlistings.php?ni=409)https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/envelope.gif (https://www.rockauto.com/en/emailpagetofriend.php?nurl=%2Fen%2Fcatalog%2Ftoyot a%2C1987%2Cvan%2C2.2l%2Bl4%2C1279784%2Cwiper%2B%26 %2Bwasher%2Cwindshield%2Bwasher%2Bpump%2C8840) https://www.rockauto.com/Images/questionMark.png (https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=2)






Choose for Me to Minimize Cost (https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=2#MINSHIPCOST)

Related Parts









TOYOTA (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota) 1987 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987) VAN (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van) 2.2L L4 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784) Wiper & Washer (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer) Windshield Washer Pump (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,windshield+washer+pump,8840)

Price





TRICO 11603 Black Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=76062&cc=1279784)
Front

Choose:


[Wholesaler Closeout (https://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/answersTab2.html#closeout) -- 30 Day Warranty] ($7.09)












https://www.rockauto.com/info/159/Washer_Pumps_11-603__ra_t.jpg




$7.09






TRICO 11100 Black; Universal Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=76041&cc=1279784) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/Heart.png
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/159/Washer_Pumps_11-100__ra_t.jpg




$8.36






ACI 172872 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=273991&cc=1279784)

Fits
Front

Or
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/21/172872__ra_t.jpg




$11.25






ACDELCO 86700 {#89001112} Professional; Black; Universal Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371436&cc=1279784)
Rear






https://www.rockauto.com/info/308/8-6700_Primary__ra_t.jpg




$13.48






ACDELCO 86721 {#89001133} Professional; Black Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371457&cc=1279784)
Front






https://www.rockauto.com/info/308/8-6721_Primary__ra_t.jpg




$18.82


















Wiper Blade (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1987,van,2.2l+l4,1279784,wiper+&+washer,wiper+blade,8852)

[VanDown]

My washer change valve still seems to be working, but while I have everything out to replace the rear pump, I think I'm going to replace it with something like this (https://www.mcmaster.com/47245k25)...mostly because I want to see if it'll work. An electromechanical valve seems like way overkill just to keep the tube from emptying back into the tank

[Jdelgado]

https://www.amazon.com/Anco-6708-Windshield-Washer-Pump/dp/B0009IK6NO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=anco+6708+pump&qid=1586761211&sr=8-1

Recently purchased 2 of these, they work great!

[Burntboot]

VD - Not sure what "electro-mechanical" valve you are referring to.

Toyota (and most imports) use one-way non-return valves in the washer hoses, to prevent bleed back
The factory valve can be seen in Carbon's post (#30, last pic) it's the white tube "connector" at the end of the clear plastic hose.

The valve Jdelgado will likely work fine as a replacement, as long as the opening threshold is within pump specs
(valves are cheaper than pumps and pumps that work too hard tend to fail)

Aftermarket pumps are crazy inexpensive but they don't have the lifespan of factory, either.
I'd rather a used OE pump than a new aftermarket one, but that's just me.

[VanDown]

VD - Not sure what "electro-mechanical" valve you are referring to.

Toyota (and most imports) use one-way non-return valves in the washer hoses, to prevent bleed back
The factory valve can be seen in Carbon's post (#30, last pic) it's the white tube "connector" at the end of the clear plastic hose.

The valve Jdelgado will likely work fine as a replacement, as long as the opening threshold is within pump specs
(valves are cheaper than pumps and pumps that work too hard tend to fail)

Aftermarket pumps are crazy inexpensive but they don't have the lifespan of factory, either.
I'd rather a used OE pump than a new aftermarket one, but that's just me.

I'm referring to the "Washer change valve," which I understand to be the thing that the relay sits on top of, visible at the top of that same picture you referenced. I didn't realize there was also a check valve/non-return valve. Curious now to understand why both are necessary - I guess the washer change valve probably prevents liquid from continuing to dribble out of the nozzles after spraying, whereas the check valve only prevents flow back into the tank...

I think what Jdelgado linked to is a replacement pump, not a valve

[Burntboot]

Jd did indeed reference a pump assembly, and you are correct about the weird valve and I have learned something new.
Manual speaks of how to test it but fails to address purpose/function.

That said, IH8MUD has a great write up on them
Cheers

[Wrench]

Hey all, my front washer has suddenly stopped working! I don't hear a pump sound anymore when I push the button. Is this more likely an electrical issue or a pump failure? Thanks!

[89van]

Also having an issue with my washer, most likely dirt got into the system since mine never had a cap on the tank in a long, long time, and being it came from the high desert probably years of dust accumulated inside it long before I added windshield washer fluid to test if it worked. Also have the same issue; push the button, electricity goes to it and nothing. A small thing but it would be nice to have (and a cap for the tank especially!)