Removing fixed windows (rear side and liftgate)

[Cadin]

Hey Gang,

I've been bringing back to life a 4x4 5-speed van. It also had the "Christmas lights" and I fixed that yesterday with an alt swap; Yaaay!

More pertinent to this post, I have replaced the original damaged hatch with a good one (Perfect paint match!). The new window though doesn't have the factory tint, and the window I removed does.

What is the proper procedure to remove the rear glass? Mine seems super stuck! Is it worth it to salvage the rubber, or just cut it out? Should I just tint the glass that's in there?

This site has been an awesome resource in getting this rig back on the road!

Thank you for all of your help!

[timsrv]

Don't cut the rubber gasket. These last for a very long time and are likely not available anymore. If they are available I'm guessing they would be very expensive. It's easy to remove the glass. Just sit inside the rear hatch and lower it down on your legs. With it right in front of your face, roll the rubber gasket toward the glass and gently push out as you're doing it. The idea is to get the interior lip of the rubber gasket on the outside of the hatch. When you get close it helps to have a 2nd person on the outside to help "catch" the glass.

Putting it back in is a little more tricky, but not too difficult. It's talked about near the end of this post: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?209-My-novice-body-work-thread

[Jlhollowx13]

I am wondering if anyone has experience removing the cargo and rear gate windows. I have some rust in one corner of the rear window and some below the passenger cargo window as well as under the sliding door track. The rust near the windows extends under the window gasket and I figured if I'm going to try to repair it I better do it right. Is there a way to reuse the rubber gaskets or will I need new ones? Is there an easy way to uninstall and install them? The door track looks straight forward I think. Thanks for any help!

[Jlhollowx13]

No one has done this? Would it be best to take it to a glass shop?

[Carbonized]

The rear, fixed, one are easy. From the inside, starting at the top and lift gate corner pry under the rubber lip of the gasket on the bodywork side and try "curling" it under the metal flange at the center of the gasket, I do it with my fingers, no tools, but you can use a flat screw driver or plastic blade . Take a pick under the rubber lip first to see how it is, going a bit along the top then a bit down the rear and again, at the same time push on the glass toward the outside. Glass and gasket should pop out together, when that corner is out and not trying to pop back in, grab the window from the outside and slowly pry it out of the frame, bottom last.

The lift gate window is the same.

The sliding window is a bit harder and messier first from inside there is a clip-on edge trim, it's a U shaped, textured, pressed on, vinyl trim. Find the split, pull off one end and peel the thing off all around. Now it gets messy as the window is bonded to the door with gooey adhesive. Cut through the goop with a blade as you pry the frame away, slow and easy so you do not bend anything. Wear gloves for this one, it's a real mess! Also use acetone only for cleanup, it turns the goop into somewhat of a solid scrap able rubber rather than a smudge.


In both cases all trims and gaskets should be re usable.

Hope that helps.

LG

[Jlhollowx13]

Thanks alot! I should be able to get it now.

[SEANBOB]

just to add a couple of tricks to this proceedure...start in a top corner, and using your hand pat the glass as you are pushing the window gasket outward...take any rings off first though. use window cleaner liberally as a lubricant.
replacing a stationary window that is gasket set is pretty straight forward. use a length of cotton rope, 3/8 in that'll go all the way around the gasket. work the gasket onto the glass, putting the seam of the gasket in the center of the bottom. now push the rope into the slot on the gasket where the pinchweld of the body goes. make sure it is all the way down into that slot and there is no slack, but not too tight. you will need at least 4-6in left over rope. start the rope in the lower corner when you set it into the groove so it starts and ends in the corner. now set the glass firmly against the body of the car. pull the rope towards you from inside the vehicle. you should see the lip pulling over the pinchweld. go about six inches, and "pat" the outside of the glass with a flattened limp hand..ONLY where you have pulled the rope! do not pat ahead of where the rope has been pulled. The gasket will be pulled over the pinchweld all the way around. pat the glass firmly to set the gasket and you are done. you can/should use a lubricant such as silicone spray lube, or glass cleaner so the rubber doesn't rip. if it starts to rip, stop, work the torn piece over the pinchweld with a hooktool...
hope this helps.:dance2:

[Cadin]

Yeah, mine went very smoothly removing it once I got it started, I just used a little soapy water to encourage it. I don't know about the install yet, but that certainly agrees with the manual. I have a now have an extra piece of glass if anyone needs it by the way!