Installing Aftermarket Gauges — Tachometer, Engine Temp, Tranny Temp, Oil Pressure

[wayoffline]

My 87 5sp 4x4 cargo did not come with a factory tach which seems a bit lame for a manual transmission. I really didn't want a big huge thing that sat on top of the dash or bolted to the drivers side pillar. I found a 2 -1/16" one at harbor freight for $20.

I decided to mount it where the digital clock on LE models lives and where a useless rattling garbage collector resides on lower trim models. I know it is not in the ideal line of sight spot, but this is not a race car and I am sure I will only be using it as an occasional reference.

I removed the stock pocket and used the face of it as a template on the side of a unsalvageable center console in the same color as my interior. I cut the piece out with a combination of hack saw and dremel tool. Cleaned it up and rounded the edges with a file. Scribed the 2-1/16" hole with a compass and cut it out with the dremel. Once I had the gauge secured to to the new piece, I drilled a small hole in each corner, mocked it up in the van and drilled through the holes into the metal framework in the dash. 4 small metal screws installed (I think I will hunt for some black ones) and it doesn't look too bad!

The wiring was simple once I found out that toyota provided a test port for a tachometer on the side of the distributor. How cool is that? I read somewhere that all vans have a black wire that comes through the floor under the dash and is there for a tach (whether the van came with one or not), but I did not feel like hunting for it and wasn't sure if it was "plug and play" or not. I chose to run a wire under the carpet to the shift console. From the shift console I ran it through one of the shift linkage grommets, which puts it inches away from the distributor. A quick connect will make it easy to unplug when the passenger cover needs to come out. For the connection to the distributor I just drilled a hole the size of my wire in the top of the factory dust cap and ran the wire directly into the plug. A dab of silicone around the the hole in the cap to keep out dirt and moisture.

The rest of the wiring came off of the factory stereo wiring harness except for the backlight, which I spliced off of the backlight for the cigarette lighter (green wire in the 5th image). From the stereo harness I used the yellow wire for the direct positive, red for the ignition "on" power, and black for ground. The tach came with something like 6 different backlight colors- changeable by a button on the front.

I did learn one important thing once it was all installed and I went for a night time drive: there is a very good reason why your dash lights reside under a visor on all vehicles- the glare on the windshield is quite distracting. I will post again when I figure out how to shield the light without blocking the gauge's visibility!

[timsrv]

Very Cool! Looks like a green pac-man gobbling up a little white monster :)>:. I also used this spot to put some extra gauges. Here's a couple pics of mine:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8989.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8994.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8995.jpg

For my transmission temperature gauge I got a plastic gauge holder at a local auto parts store and used double back foam mounting tape to put it on my dash. I like this location.......I should have put my coolant temp gauge here and put the trans temp gauge over by the clock.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_5070.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_5072.jpg

[wayoffline]

I am humbled by the coolness of your setup Tim! Your gauges look like they have a bit of a shield around them- do you have any issue with backlight glare on your windshield? Is the housing for your trans temp gauge a separate unit, or part of the gauge? I think I would ultimately like to put the tack where you have the trans temp and put an oil pressure gauge where I put the tach. My oil pressure light comes on frequently even though the actual pressure checks out fine. I would be more comfortable being able to monitor the situation.

One other thing I have noticed is that the dimmer switch seems to have no affect on the tach, even though I used the power for the cig lighter backlight which will change with the dimmer switch. Anyone have any thoughts?

[timsrv]

The single gauge holder is just a plastic housing for a 2 1/16" gauge. It's open on the back so if you're standing in front of the van you can see the ugly part of the gauge through the windshield. Looks good inside though and it's functional. I never really noticed any glare/reflection issues, but can't say for sure about that as I've never really looked for it.

Thanks for the kudos on my gauges. I had a nice write-up with pics that I put on TVP when I installed these things. I went there tonight to get a link for you, but discovered my posts were edited and pics removed (probably by admin due to my TVT stamps). Oh well, their loss. I guess the more they do that the more visitors we'll get over here :wnk:. Tim

PS: Due to your choice of location (clock location) your tach isn't as far out from view as my gauges are. I think your location is fine...........and you did a nice job! If I want to know what temp my engine is running I almost need a copilot :LOL2:.

[timsrv]

I recently added a tach to mine too. I put mine on top of the steering column. Here's a picture:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/IMG_2730_zpse82aed31.jpg

The blue LED light on my dash is tied into my oil pressure switch & a temperature switch I installed on my engine. A piezo buzzer is activated & that blue light will come on if my engine coolant exceeds 220 deg F or if I lose oil pressure :wnk:. Tim

[technocj]

Thanks, what size is the coolant sensor fitting?

[timsrv]

There is an extra unused port in the front of the head that has a plug in it. The threads inside this port are 16mm X 1.5 pitch. Most quality temperature gauge kits will come with adapters & this is a common size to find in such a kit. If it's not included, most auto parts stores that sell gauges will carry this.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/CoolantTempSender.jpg

[technocj]

Thanks, Tim, that helps, the picture was perfect!! I noticed today that the temp gauge is starting out at what I estimate is 150-160 on a cold start. I will go shopping. mike.

[technocj]

Installed a mechanical temp gauge the other day, shows 170-180 deg in 82deg ambient temp. I'm happy. higher temps or stressful operation and I could open the valve to the previa heater core I installed as auxiliary radiator.
:lol:

[timsrv]

Installed a mechanical temp gauge the other day, shows 170-180 deg in 82deg ambient temp. I'm happy. higher temps or stressful operation and I could open the valve to the previa heater core I installed as auxiliary radiator.
:lol:

Awesome! You're just messing with me regarding the Previa heater core.......right :LOL2:?

[technocj]

Not at all!! Both of my vans have the modification. That connection for the tach at the distributor, is it the plug that is clipped to the distributor housing??

[technocj]

ok, I just noticed the pic you posted, you had a spare connector to plug into it, I assume.

[timsrv]

It's that single conductor connector that's held in place by the front/inside distributor cap bolt. Here's a link to a post that should clarify it better: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?752-New-guy-wanting-to-say-H-i-and-a-tachometer-question&p=4335#post4335 It just takes a standard spade connector. As shown in that post, normally there's a plastic cap on this. Wayoffline (1st poster in this thread) just drilled a hole in the cap to run his wire through. You can remove the cap completely or do what he did. Tim

PS: Thumbs-up on the heater core mod :thmbup:.

Here's the connection I made on mine.......green wire (I didn't use the cap)

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_2410_zpse72d0e7f.jpg

[highwind]

Hey Tim! where did you plug in that tran temp sensor?

[timsrv]

When you buy the gauge kit it comes with a brass tee that installs in one of your transmission cooling lines. If you use that, you're supposed to put it in the return line from the cooler near the transmission (so you're reading the temperature of the ATF that's returning to the transmission after it's been cooled). That's the easier way, but I like to see the temperature of the fluid sitting in the pan (a more stable & accurate location to sense temperature). So I drilled a hole in my tranny pan, cut the sender side of the brass tee off, and then brazed it to the inside of the tranny pan. Here's some pics:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/08brazingpan.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/09insidepan.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/10sensorinstalled.jpg

[bikerjosh]

Quick question, are the vans cluster wiring harnesses/plugs among 5spd vans the same? Have an 87' 5spd 4wd cargo with clock cluster, wondering if I can just pick up a cluster from a 5spd w/tack and swap them?
thanks Josh

[originalkwyjibo]

There's a little info here: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2179-le-cluster-swap

[amcneill]

hey everybody!

so im sure this has been covered somewhere, but searching hasnt found me anything so i figured id start a new thread...

id like to put an aftermarket temp sensor in my van, because ive heard of horror stories about stock gauges being horribly inaccurate. i was going to buy one of the cheap 20-30 dollar digital gauges from amazon and hook it up to the stock sensor, but im wondering if anybody would recommend buying a whole aftermarket sensor and putting it somewhere in the coolant path? is it just the gauges that are unreliable on our vans or is it the sensor as well?

thanks!

[originalkwyjibo]

I don't know that the gauges are inherently unreliable as much as non-specific as to the temperature. Gauges work within a certain range of resistance. In order to use the stock sending unit you would need to know it's operating range and then find a gauge that operates within that specific range. Most aftermarket gauges will come with a sending unit. You could run both an AM gauge and the stock gauge for comparison by utilizing the extra sensor port detailed in post #13 of this (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2759-Cooling-system-Mods) thread.

[amcneill]

thank you so much!!!

[Roger]

I recently installed an Engine Guardian gauge/sensor in my van. It came with a traditional coolant temp sensor, and two sensor leads that bolt to the block. I just used one of the bolt-on sensors attached to the coolant inlet, and the setup seems to work great. Gives me a very accurate view of engine temperature, and once I figured out what the average running temp range was, I set alarms to warn me if it goes above that range. It also has a purchase option that comes with relays, for activating fans at set temperatures. Really easy to install. Might cost a bit more than the other options you were looking at though.

http://www.carsensors.com/Engine_Guardian.html

[amcneill]

wow that is a bit more pricey than i was looking at.....when you say its bolt on does that mean it senses the temperature of the outside of the block, or is it a probe that goes into the coolant?

[Roger]

Correct. It senses the block temperature, although it does come with a coolant sensor probe (not sure how that would adapt to the Toyota engine's ports though). As far as I can tell, a block sensor gives you an accurate picture of what is going on with your motor. Maybe more so than a coolant sensor (for instance, not sure how accurate a probe is if you are low on coolant or have lost it all for some reason). But for whatever reason, they come with a high price tag. There could be cheaper versions I'm unaware of. The first I saw was the Engine Watchdog, popular with 4WD enthusiasts and truckers, made in Australia. http://enginewatchdog.com/ But it isn't cheap either.

[Benjie]

My oil light was intermittently coming on so I installed a oil pressure gauge. my oil pressure is around 60 while driving and goes down to 12 when warm and idling. Just wondering what pressure other people have on their vans especially at idle It's a 4ye. thinking about going with a little thicker oil I think my main bearings might be a little tired. Right now I'm running 10w30 thanks for any input.

[Burntboot]

Benji - the oil gauge on your dash is merely a guide, it was never meant to be as precise as people expect.
Senders are notorious for displaying lower pressure at idle and its not uncommon, as they age, for them to start displaying zero at idle.

If you have 12lbs at idle with a mechanical gauge, all is good.
Thicker oil can bridge a wear gap but it can also cause starvation in other parts that aren't as worn.

[Benjie]

Thanks for the reply. My van has no factory oil gauge just a light. I ran a new wire from light to sender that took care of the light coming on and off. Since I was already running that wire I ran a oil gauge sender wire and installed a electronic gauge. I don't like mechanical gauges oil going into my van one more place for oil to leak. When I was young I had a mechanical gauge blow out on me oil all over the dash and floor. Anyone out there run a little thicker oil to help take care of a little bit of a tired engine. I would pull the motor and rebuild it but my Datsun 510 is getting that treatment right now. My van is my daily to work. Thanks again for reply good to know oil pressure at idle is ok.

[Burntboot]

I hear ya on the oil explosion thing, btdt, what a mess.

On DX vans (those without a Tach) the "oil" light actually serves 2 purposes, the "pressure" sender AND the level sender activate the same light.
If you physically ran a new wire from the PS switch to the instrument pack you may have inadvertently disconnected the level sensor.
If it was the level sensor portion of the circuit that was activating the light, that could explain why it doesn't any more.
Those level sensors can fail, causing a false warning, but might be a good idea to check the level, just the same.

The search function can provide all the answers you seek regarding discussion on oil types and ratings.

[Benjie]

Interesting I didn't know about any vehicles from the 80's or before had a oil level sensor. I tied into the oil light at the consol and the other end to the oil pressure senser. Comes on prestart and goes off ounce started. Before I reworded the light it would come on sometimes even if the oil was topped off. Just out of curiosity where would the oil level senser be located. I do like having a gauge I feel like it is a much more solid way of knowing if there is a problem especially since this old van is a little tired.thanks for the info

[originalkwyjibo]

Oil level sensor is mounted through the left(driver)side of the oil pan and they are frequently unreliable. It's wiring is incorporated into the alternator harness. One of my vans has a jumper wire in the chassis connector that was there when I got the van the other goes on and off when it feels like it. My Mitsubishi van does the same thing. There's a few threads where this is discussed in some detail. I'm of the same opinion as Burntboot on the oil pressure. 12# is at warm idle is plenty. The oil only needs to be flowing through the engine at idle Most idiot light switches open and close around 4psi.

[Gambit]

Hi All -
I'm installing a new mechanical oil pressure gauge this weekend and want to tap into the correct fuse so it lights up when I turn on the headlights / dash lights - would love some insight on which would be best to use. I was going to do the headlights, but was thinking this may have continuous power and is actually not good choice? Any help would be appreciated! EDIT - it's a 12V gauge light.

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[Burntboot]

If you want the gauge to illuminate when you turn on the lights and you want to access that power from the fuse box, then tying into the tail lamp circuit might be the easiest solution.

[Gambit]

If you want the gauge to illuminate when you turn on the lights and you want to access that power from the fuse box, then tying into the tail lamp circuit might be the easiest solution.

Great - thank you. I'll give it a shot, otherwise I was just going to go into the cig and have it lit all the time.

[Gambit]

Just found this photo - for anyone who stumbles across this thread in the future - this should help... 6492

[Benjie]

I just did an electronic op gauge I used add a circuit basically gives you a wire off an existing fuse then you get another wire coming off it with a dedicated fuse fast and easy and if you ever want it gone or it dies on you pull the fuse and it will be just how it was.cost $5

[Gambit]

I just did an electronic op gauge I used add a circuit basically gives you a wire off an existing fuse then you get another wire coming off it with a dedicated fuse fast and easy and if you ever want it gone or it dies on you pull the fuse and it will be just how it was.cost $5

Yep - that's the plan. Which fuse did you use?

[Benjie]

I used the ignition fuse but I wanted mine lit up all the time I. The ignition fuse slot was better with the add a fuse because the fuse slot below it is empty more room for it. Don't know what kind of gauge you got but mine came with an extra wire on it to tie into the dash lights so if you want it will dim with the dash dimmer wheel.6497

[Benjie]

Here's a pic lit up6498

[Ace MM]

I had a mechanical gauge blow out on me oil all over the dash and floor. Anyone out there run a little thicker oil to help take care of a little bit of a tired engine. I would pull the motor and rebuild it but my Datsun 510 is getting that treatment right now
Plastic line? I've seen that many times.
I have steel braided lines to the gauge in my 510 .
I use higher viscosity oil on old motors.

[Benjie]

Yeh it was a plastic line the gauge was in it when I bought it. I prefer the electronic.

[MyToy]

Hey can anyone tell me where the sender for the oil pressure is on the engine so I can put a mechanical gauge on it?

Thanks

[Burntboot]

The oil pressure sender on the VAN is on the righthand side of the engine, just below the oil filter, IIRC.

[MyToy]

Thanks buddy!

mt

[MyToy]

Hey BB!

Wouldn't happen to now the thread size so I can make a conversion nipple?


mt

[Burntboot]

Sadly I don't remember the thread size but it is metric and pipe thread to boot.
If I had to guess I would say the outside diameter of the threads to be 8mm but pipe thread sizing is not like bolts.

Maybe an auto parts store will have a standard sender in stock you could measure then buy the appropriate fitting from the same store?
The idiot light sender is not van specific, they used the same sender on a multitude of cars, so you might get lucky.

Worst case, take yours out and head off to the brass fittings store and match something up.

Side note, You may also want to consider getting a special socket for OP senders, regular sockets often don't fit (well)
I have done it both ways, but having the right tool makes the job fast and nearly impossible to damage the new sender.

[MyToy]

Thanks BB

OK, at least that gives me a direction to go to. Maybe somebody will chime in on the parts they used.

Later Buddy

Mt

[AD2101]

MyToy,

I recently had to go through this and here's what I did. I bought this engine oil pressure tester (https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-62621.html) at Harbor Freight for $19.10 (after 20% coupon, never buy anything without the coupon).

As to which size adapter I used, I used this guy in the circle:

6723

I made sure the threads were the same pattern and eyeballed them with the sender I removed from the van to determine size. There was one other adapter in the kit that looked a tad larger (but in the ballpark), but went for the circled one as you really don't want to cross-thread this one.

If you're just going to do this once, I imagine AutoZone or Oreilly's has a kit they can loan you, but $19 is a fair price considering the amount of utility it has. The adapter goes on with a 14mm open-end wrench. Hand thread it in as far as you can before using the 14mm. Also, when you get it good n' tightish make sure the hole on the adapter is pointing in a direction you can get the gauge hose itself on.

Hope it helps.

[MyToy]

Good Old Harbor Freight!!!

Fantastic, I will get one asap.


Thank you so much!!!

MT

[Benjie]

Sorry I've been offline for a while if you want to know what you op is all the time install a guage I put in a glowshift decent guage for the money comes with sender online for 45$ and 5$ for a add a fuse super easy install. If you want to go that route if I remember right the guage can come with 2 different lengths of sending wires I got the longer one so I could run it a little cleaner.

[MyToy]

Super! Just check them out. For sure another addition to the machine.

Thanks for the note

MT

[Tan Van]

My old '86 van made use of the oil-level warning light feature many times over the years... it would reliably tell me whenever I got about a quart low. If you have an "oil consumer" the level warning is almost more important than the pressure sender.

also, this relates more to wear prevention than to pressure, but, I like to add a ZDDP (zinc) additive to the oil in my new '87. It's a habit that carries over from my Chevelle. I should note, though, that I have no catalytic converters to worry about. (no emissions requirements so I replaced the blown converter in the van with another resonator).

[bushcat]

Just want to post a thank you and share my picture of my tachometer. This tachometer was installed by a previous owner before I bought the van. I thought it would be difficult to get this working but then I found this post. I've had the van for about three years and never had the gauge working. It was hard to get a good connection because the spot were the plug is really hard to access and there's not enough wire to pull it out of the engine bay. It took me about an hour. I ended up jamming a two prong plug into it and superglued it in there. It's working! Pretty stoked to have a tach. Edit: I can't get the photo to show correctly.
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