Fuel injector replacement

[cohiak]

New proud owner of a 1985 2wd Vanwagon LE. Need to replace the #3 fuel injector, per previous owner's mechanic. I have extensive experience working on Honda motorbikes, but am not sure about DIY'ing this fuel injector. I have the shop manual, and would like to at least see if there's a step-by-step on how to do this (don't have it currently on me bc i'm at work.)

Can anyone give any information about the time/complexity of doing this repair myself vs the cost of having a mechanic do it?

Also, I'd like to buy the part and give it to the mechanic to install, I've seen a lot of 10 digit part ID numbers that are used to buy parts on toyotapartsdeal.com, does anyone know which fuel injector would be the correct one to purchase, if its even available?

Thanks, this site rocks!
cohiak

[Filippo]

Hey, im currently working on the same issue. I just got the intake manifold off and have yet to take the injectors/rail out. Each one seems to be pricey so I plan on testing them and hopefully salvaging them. Taking the manifold off is a heck of a job but doable. Just mark all the hoses and nuts and bolts! Here is a link to a great repair manual: http://www.toyotavans.org/community/tips/real_manual.html

I would suggest doing it yourself because I realized there were a lot of other things that needed cleaning and/or replacing while i have the manifold off. My EGR valve/modulator, the connectors to the injectors are brittle and need replacing, gasket on the manifold crumbled, multiple hoses in poor condition. You can go ahead and replace the Pulsation dampener, fuel pressure regulator for cheap. cleaning out the throttle body. It's an overhaul you should do if you have the time and patience and money. This site is a great resource. Hit me up if you want to collaborate.

[originalkwyjibo]

Use the search function and type in "fuel injector". You will find several threads relating to the info you need. There is one thread in particular that goes into good detail about hoses and other things to replace while it's apart. You could also search "Dr Injector" and you will find lots of happy people who were saved form forking out large sums of money for new injectors.

[cohiak]

Thanks for the info guys. After doing some extensive research and watching many eccentric auto mechanics on YouTube (check out Scotty Kilmer!) I think I'm going to attempt changing the fuel injectors myself.

I read that you need to replace all the fuel injectors even if one isn't working, because if you combine new ones with old ones, the engine won't run evenly. Does anyone have any experience or advice on this?

also Filippo, I have the shop manual for my van with an extensive set of instructions on changing them, let me know if you need a PDF copy of these pages.

I will be looking into the Dr, seems like a more reasonable option for this job instead of buying all new injectors.

Something about doing my own car repairs just makes me feel like a badass.

Cohiak

[Filippo]

I just removed the injectors and I dont understand how the van was running at all. They are in terrible condition. I contacted the injector doctor and sent them off in the mail today, along with the cold start injector. I'll let you know how it turns out. Such a better price than new ones.

[cohiak]

Please do, I'm very interested to know how well the restoration goes. it looks like that is the more reasonable option than full replacement.

[Filippo]

I received my injectors in the mail yesterday. As it turns out 3 out of 4 of mine had issues. One was stuck open (which explains all the fuel in my manifold). One had an electrical terminal issue. I am surprised my van ran at all. Mine were in such bad shape, Wayne at Doctor Injector, suggested I purchase 4 of his restored ones. That's what I did at $50 each. Much cheaper than purchasing a new one and they are toyota injectors and they test well. I am still cleaning and replacing other parts before I put the manifold back together but I am excited to see how it runs now. I would highly recommend using Doctor Injector. If you arent in the area, you can mail them usps in a small "if it fits it ships" box for about $6.

[Filippo]

Since my injectors and fuel tank were pretty nasty, i am also trying to clean out my fuel lines. There are two lines leading from the fuel pump. One has a section of rubber hose attached to the metal line. The nuts holding this section are stripped. Does anyone know if that hose section is necessary? I was going to hacksaw that portion out and replace it with bulk hose after i clean the line out. Also, why are there two lines from the pump and which is the one providing fuel to the injectors? In the diagram it is the hose labeled "refer to 22-11"2576

[timsrv]

The bigger of the 2 lines is the pressure line from the pump to the engine. The smaller one is the return line. Both have fuel flowing through them. The pressure line goes from the pump to the filter, then from it to the fuel rail. At the back of the fuel rail there is a pressure regulator. The regulator only lets fuel past it when pressure in the rail hits ~40 psi. The fuel that gets past the regulator returns to the tank via the smaller line.

I've been through these type of fuel system problems myself. For some reason it's always #3 injector that gets clogged up 1st. In case you haven't already found it here's a thread where remedies are discussed: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?188-Fuel-gauge-not-working (contamination discussions start on page 2). Tim

[Filippo]

ok, thanks. i'm pretty sure the problem came from the van sitting for so long. Ive basically replaced or cleaned out the whole fuel system. Last part is the line running from the tank to the filter. Just gonna leave that in place and fill it with sea foam or vinegar, block the end and let it sit, then flush it out. The tank was full of corrosion and the pump was nasty with a hole in the filter.

Those nuts on that one section arent coming loose so ill just cut it out with a hacksaw and hope its just a connector and not a valve hidden in there or something.

But thanks for the clarification on which line was which. I couldnt trace it with the tank in place and I definitely dont want to drop the fuel tank again unless absolutely necessary

[timsrv]

On that smaller line, due to lower pressures, you'll find they use standard fuel line with hose clamps. In contrast, the pressure side uses special threaded fittings and hoses (due to the higher pressures). On my van that's featured in the thread (linked to above), that smaller steel line on the fuel pump bracket was plugged up solid. I cleared it using a ridged wire, some drill bits, air pressure, and carb cleaner.

Dropping the tank isn't that big of a deal. If there's an access issue, I wouldn't hesitate in doing so. Once the tank is empty, barring corrosion complications, it can be dropped in as little as 15 minutes. Tim

[Filippo]

Next issue. Its kind of a small thing but its turning out to being the only thing preventing me from putting my whole motor back together. The insulator that goes in before the injectors, there is an O ring that goes around them. This O ring was brittle and broke off of all 4 of my insulators. I can not find a replacement. I ordered from an OEM site and they sent the wrong size...twice. I estimated and bought O rings from auto parts stores and none of the rings allow the insulators to fit in the provided space. Without an O ring they are loose but I cant find what part I am supposed to replace it with. The first picture is one of the insulator and the replacement ring ive tried. it is a snug fit but wont fit in the insulator slot on the engine. the 2nd shows a side view of the insulator. Does anyone have any idea what i need to put around this thing to make it work? Dont say order from OEM because i did order part 23250B and got a little grommet. as you can see there are two VERY different sized parts named 23250B on the toyota part diagram.2643


26412642

[timsrv]

The hard plastic piece in your pictures is the fuel injector basket. That big o-ring is the fuel injector basket o-ring. It's Toyota part #90301-23004. Here's a link to a thread that gives part numbers and much more information on all the injectors and their o-rings/insulators: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?522-Other-parts-to-replace-while-replacing-Head-Gasket.

When it comes to injector o-rings, for the last several projects I've been relying on aftermarket parts from www.rockauto.com & was happy with results. They sell kits there with all the o-rings and it's much cheaper than purchasing OEM from Toyota. Good luck. Tim

PS: Don't forget to grease them up. Always be gently when pushing in o-rings and make sure all old o-rings and debris are removed from bores before assembly. Install each part with hand pressure only (don't use bolts to force them in).