Crankshaft Pulley seal replacement

[timsrv]

Every 3 or 4 years, I take apart my van and address all of the mechanical problems that have developed. I had set aside this weekend for replacing my cracked exhaust manifold and a few other issues, but since I got done early I decided to replace that leaking timing cover seal (AKA front crankshaft seal or Balancer seal). Since I've done this before, and since it's a fairly common problem, I thought I'd do a write-up in case anybody else needs to do it. I'll skip through the basic disassembling and get right to the good stuff. I don't recommend trying to do it with the radiator installed, as it would be a pain (no room to work). Just get it out of the way from the start and changing that seal should be a breeze.
Okay, you are going to need a few special tools to do this job, so the 1st thing you'll need to do is make sure you have access to these or can come up with some sort of substitute. Here is a chain wrench. For this job it's a very handy tool to have. It can be used to keep the engine from rotating while taking off and re-installing the balancer bolt.
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http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/02IMG_8952.jpg


The next thing you'll need is a bolt grip puller set. I have the fancy Snap-on one here, but other pullers can be used. This is a common tool and Autozone or other tool rental places should have one. Some standard steering wheel pullers will work as well. Just be sure to pull via the bolt holes in the pulley. Don't try to grab onto the outside edge with a pry bar or other type puller as you may damage the balancer.
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After the balancer bolt has been removed, attach the puller and pull the balancer off. These pulleys are not a very tight fit to the crankshaft, so it should come off with a minimal effort.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/05IMG_8915.jpg


Ah yes, slid right off.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/06IMG_8916.jpg


1st thing to do is clean the grease and build-up off of it and inspect the seal area. This one has a little groove in it, but this is very minor. It will clean up nicely with a few passes of emery cloth Note: Sometimes you will find a deep groove here. In some cases, if the wear is extreme, it will be necessary to purchase a micro sleeve. Micro sleeves can be purchased from most quality auto parts stores. It's basically a very thin wall metal sleeve that slips over the damaged shaft. They are made to be a "press fit", so if you ever need to install one, wipe a dab of sealer inside of it, then use a piece of 2x4 wood to pound it onto the pulley shaft. Micro sleeves do tend to stretch the seal a bit, so don't use one unless you really need it.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/07IMG_8921.jpg


Next I use some emery cloth to clean up the balancer shaft. This helps to break the glaze and helps the seal to break-in quicker. It also removes any left over crud and knocks down any burs that could damage the seal on reinstallation. I start out with 80 grit, then move on to 220 grit. It's not necessary to remove much material, I usually just do it enough to make it shiny and uniform in appearance.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/08IMG_8922.jpg


Here's the pulley shaft after clean-up.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/09IMG_8924.jpg


Here's the old seal. These usually pop-out pretty easy. I just stick a big screw-driver in and pop it out.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/10IMG_8930.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/11IMG_8931.jpg


I like to keep my engine clean, so I use this time to clean up the mess created by the leaky seal. I use some brake clean and a brush to clean it up. The lid to the can of brake clean is a perfect fit to keep the crap out of my timing cover :P .
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/12IMG_8935.jpg


Oh yeah, nice and clean :wink:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/13IMG_8936.jpg


Here's the new seal I got from Toyota.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/14IMG_8925.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/15IMG_8927.jpg


I pack a little grease on the inside lip and then wipe a tiny bit on the surface that contacts the pulley shaft for lubrication.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/16IMG_8937.jpg


Although not completely necessary, I like to use some Toyota sealer on the outer edge of the seal. As an assembly lubricant, it helps the seal slide easily into place. Once installed, it will cure to insure no oil seeps out between the seal and the timing cover.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/17IMG_8939.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/18IMG_8940.jpg


Now I find a big socket to drive the new seal into place. I use the biggest one I can find that is still slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/19IMG_8942.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/20IMG_8943.jpg


New seal installed.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/21IMG_8944.jpg


Most people don't think of this, but oil can seep out between the balancer and the crank. In particular the key-way can provide a path for oil to leak from. To prevent this from happening, I'm going to use a little more Toyota sealer and use it as an assembly lubricant here as well. I usually put a little extra in the groove for good measure.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/22IMG_8945.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/23IMG_8946.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/24IMG_8947.jpg


With the wet sealer, the pulley slides right on by hand. There was no need to use excessive force.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/25IMG_8948.jpg


Torque for the pulley bolt is 116 ft lbs.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/26IMG_8949.jpg


The chain wrench once again proves to be a very handy tool.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/27IMG_8952.jpg


All done :dance: ! Now it's time to put the belts back on and the radiator back in. No more annoying oil drips in the driveway :yes: . Tim

Note: Seal = Toyota Part #90311-A0005 $9.71 purchased through a discount Toyota parts internet site.

[djshimon]

Don't try to grab onto the outside edge with a pry bar or other type puller as you may damage the balancer.
So I foolishly didn't read this thread before I tried to use a pry bar to take off the crank-which didn't work. Then I went and grabbed the crank with both hands and it came right off-probably won't be as easy next time if I use that toyota sealer between the crank and balancer huh? Is it possible that it's not the seal that leaks and just between the crank and balancer? How easy is it to damage the balancer? I wasn't pushing too hard. I'm hoping:cnfsd: it's fine but I won't find out until the whole thing is back together.
Worst of all is I didn't even need to take off the crank to add on the a/c pulley(what I'm doing this for)-those four bolts come off and you can swap it out that way:doh:...
Maybe another hard lesson learned.

[timsrv]

The reason you don't want to pry or pull from the outside is the balancer (crankshaft pulley) halves are held together by rubber. IMO it's not likely you damaged it (that would actually be a bit difficult). On these engines you often don't need a puller as they are a slip fit. If you put sealer between the crank and pulley (like I do) you might need a puller next time around :rol:. Tim

[djshimon]

thanks tim, i feel better now.

[emma'87]

I am back at the van after a long break..couldn't sell it so figured I better get it running...any way the crank shaft seal was leaking when it last ran & I have the timing chain cover off as well as the pulley...I think I see the problem. it seems the seal has a micro groove worn into the pulley & i wonder about a sleeve kit or how best to smooth it out. what do you think?

[Burntboot]

Depends on how deep the groove is, sometimes you can polish them out and all is good.
If that isn't feasible, sometimes one can place the seal in a different position (further in or out) to ride on a different part of the crank.

Sleeving would be last resort, but I haven't had to go there yet, hopefully someone else with direct experience will come chime in.

[emma'87]

Thanks for the reply, would you use fine grit sandpaper for the polishing? maybe with a little wd40 or something like it. it looks lightly grooved, I will try polishing and if it doesn't correct it leaving the seal a little high, again thanks BB.

[Burntboot]

Not sandpaper per say.

It depends on how bad the groove is, but that being said, start with something along the lines of 600 wet paper, that should be enough to get started, work up from there till you have a shiny surface, I usually step up in 2-400 grit stages ending somewhere around 1400 -2400, depending on what I have available.
If things are really bad, you can always step down to 400 wet, to get a more aggressive cut but you don't want to be removing significant amounts of material.
Less is more in this case, you want to create a highly polished surface that won't tear up the new seal.

Wet paper is to be used wet, as it works as a lubricant and helps to clear the paper, making it cut better, for longer.
For polishing a crank that is in-situ, i'd use a solvent such as turpentine, kerosene, seafoam etc.,
Diluted dish soap can be very effective but should only be when conditions allow, (like when the crank is on the bench) (rust never sleeps)

When you're all done polishing, make sure to give it a wipe with a little oil to protect it until you assemble things.
If you can set the seal a little deeper, that will help too but polishing the crank will extend the life of the repair.

Worst case scenario, if this doesn't work, you can still look into sleeving it.
I've never had to go that far to save something, but I think sleeving it would be more complicated than it sounds.

[MotoVlogMiller]

I think im going to try do do mine with the radiator in but well see.. I think I have to take the cooling fan off tho and ive never done that and I cant really see how it come off because its hard to get visibility up there, any tips?

[MotoVlogMiller]

mine also looks different because mine has multiple belts going to it, yours looks like just one belt? hmmm

[MotoVlogMiller]

also next question im having trouble getting my belts off, there are three, one is the loosened at the alternator, the other has a tentoner in the middle of the engine, and the last has a tentoner at the top of the engine. ive started on the one on the top, and loosened the bolt but the pully wont move. is there something else im missing that needs to be done?

[originalkwyjibo]

Loosen the nut in the middle of the pulley. The other tensioner pulley is the same way. Search the forum as this has all been covered in detail.

[Burntboot]

As to the rad, you may want to check price and availability on a replacement, before trying to remove the pulley with the rad in place.

Ignoring Tim's advice can be expensive.

[MotoVlogMiller]

okay i got the pulleys loosened and removed the belts, replaced the seal and got everything back together, i think the pulleys are okay. I used a strap instead of a chain wrench because its what i had, seemed to work okay but the right tool would have been better. one thing im worried about is that maybe i pressed the seal in too deep? is that possible... not sure but it seems a but deeper than the original hopefully it all works out. my oil leak is gone and 20 years of oil sludge from someone letting this leak for far to long, are now clean. what do you guys think , too deep?980398049805

[MotoVlogMiller]

Also I was able to do it without removing anything except the belts, the passenger seat stayed in, the fan stayed in. Might have been easier to remove more things but I wanted to get the van fixed up for an upcoming trip so time was of the essence.