Basic Van knowledge for new owners

[llamavan]

See THIS Library Article (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?234-Basic-Knowledge-for-Van-Owners) for basic information about your van's brake fluid, oil, coolant, battery, fuses, and wiper fluid.

See THIS Library Article (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?235-Accessing-the-Van-Engine-Part-One-(Basic-access-for-checking-fluids-belts-etc-)) for basic access to your van's engine.

See THIS Library Article (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?236-Removing-the-passenger-side-engine-access-panel) for advanced access to your van's engine (removing the passenger side engine access panel).

Gwen

[glennview]

Thank you for posting this information. I have owned a Toyota van for 18 years and I did not know about the oil filter access hole. If you know that, maybe you can tell me where I will find the group of fusible links surrounded by a green rectangle in the accompanying section of the schematic for an '88 van.

[llamavan]

Using the search feature, enter "fusible link" and just like magic ...

The Fusible Link Thread (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?136-The-fusible-link-thread)

Gwen

[RawbSpear]

where is the fuel filter?

[davidgracevan]

-is the fuse layout in the 86 owner's manual the same with the 88 model?

[llamavan]

The fuse block itself (and fuse positions) are the same for all years. Wiring behind the block, on the other hand, ain't.

Gwen

[timsrv]

Rawb, sorry but until now I somehow missed your post. I'm sure you've already figured it out but I wanted to reply so the "next guy" could benefit.

The fuel filter is on the passenger side of the engine between the distributor and the oil filter (see arrow in picture below):
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/IMG_5030-1.jpg

This is a big filter so unless you have a contaminated fuel system (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?188-Fuel-gauge-not-working/page2) it should only need to be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals. To access and replace you must 1st remove the passenger side seat, center console and engine access panel. Before you remove any lines, loosen the fuel cap enough to release pressure from the system. When pressure is gone use a 6 point 17mm socket on the top banjo bolt and remove. After that's off use a 12mm socket with an extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block. The lower fuel line is flexible, so once the bracket bolts are removed the filter can be maneuvered to a position favorable to access the lower fitting. Again, a 6 point 17mm socket will fit the banjo bolt, but since the filter is loose you'll also need a 19mm open end wrench to back things up (counter torque). Tim

[User1]

This is great info! I haven't done any of this yet, but I also haven't driven the van since I drove it home months ago either. I plan on doing EVERYTHING that I can think, that needs to be replaced or checked. I want to eventually go thorough alot of stuff on the engine side of things too. Something like, if someone bought a van with no history on it, and it has over 100,000 miles on it, what should be replaced or inspected. I'm thinking sensors, valves, maybe even connections, but this is a great start for a new owner!

[brentlehr]

What's the bolt size for a rear differential drain plug?

[timsrv]

It's 24mm metric but 15/16" SAE fits it nicely too. You should use a 6 point socket as there isn't much surface area here. It's common for these to round-off so be careful. I'm sure they make special sockets for this, but I use a 6 point 15/16" socket that I ground down on a disc grinder. I removed some of the open side to get rid of the interior chamfer (this provides more surface area between the socket and plug). That socket fits nice and tight and I don't need to worry about it slipping and rounding the plug. BTW, this is the same size used on the fill plug too. The front differential (for you 4wd owners), manual transmissions & transfer cases use this same plug size. Broached sockets (relieved areas between sides of hex, like the one below) are also preferred as they are less likely to round off the plug. Tim


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/IMG_2003_zpscc4bc3d9.jpg

[User1]

Any help on auto trannys? It's not like I know you're busy Tim, but thought I'd try.

Even just a link would be great!

[timsrv]

What type of basic knowledge are you after?

[User1]

Kinda like what I mentioned above;

"I plan on doing EVERYTHING that I can think, that needs to be replaced or checked. I want to eventually go thorough alot of stuff on the engine side of things too. Something like, if someone bought a van with no history on it, and it has over 100,000 miles on it, what should be replaced or inspected. I'm thinking sensors, valves, maybe even connections, but this is a great start for a new owner!"

So lets say I bought a van with 100,000 miles on it with VERY little history on it. So now I'm in the process of going through reading up on everything I can think of. Eventually I want to check off each and every item. Now I'm interested in reading up on doing all the maintance on the auto tranny.

[timsrv]

Assuming the transmission doesn't leak, doesn't slip, and shifts smoothly, all you would want to do is change the fluid and filter. I've purchased the filter and gasket from Toyota before and I've also purchased aftermarket. After a careful inspection of each, the only difference I could tell was the aftermarket kits came with everything I needed (Toyota parts are sold separately). www.rockauto.com (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1986,van,2.2l+l4,1279751,transmission-automatic,filter,8600) had a sale on these kits a while back and I bought 6 of them for about $3 each :)>:. The ones I got are Fram #FT1112.

Once you have the parts and the fluid (about 3 qts of Dexron III), pull the drain plug and get the excess fluid out. After it's drained remove the pan. The filter on these is blocked by a metal tube. The tube can be tweaked enough to get the filter off, but I usually pop one end of the tube off the valve body with a big slot-tip screwdriver........then there's ample room. I usually start the van and cycle through the gears with the old filter and metal tube removed just to get a bit more fluid out. Once you get the filter and filter gasket replaced, put the metal tube back in it's bore and tap it into place with a hammer. Clean the old gasket surfaces, and thoroughly clean the pan. Pull the magnets out of the pan and use a rag to carefully wipe all the metal powder off of them. Once clean put them back in the pan and put the pan/pan gasket back on. I will usually put in 2 quarts, then start the van and cycle through the gears. Then check fluid and add as required while the van is idling. Stop and check level after every cup or so and cycle through the gears again when you get close.

Note: pay attention to the old fluid and check it for excessive metal flakes. It's normal to have some black dust-like flakes on the magnets, but you shouldn't see the fluid glisten in the sun like a metallic flake paint job. Tim

Helpful Hint: Catch all the old ATF in a drain pan then use a funnel to pour into a gallon jug (clear ones work the best). Now take a clean jug of the same type and pour your new fluid into that while it's sitting next to the one with old fluid. Allowing for transfer losses, put about 1/4" more fluid into the new jug than what was in the old. Now slowly pour the new fluid into your transmission while the engine is running and transmission is in park. Don't go too fast as it takes a little time for the transmission to pump the new fluid into the correct spots. When the jug is empty the fluid level in your transmission should be correct. At the very least it will be close and you can make minor adjustments as required. Tim

[User1]

Assuming the transmission doesn't leak, doesn't slip, and shifts smoothly, all you would want to do is change the fluid and filter. The ones I got are Fram #FT1112.

What is the difference between the Fram #1112 vs Fram #1112A ?

They state that the #1112 is Internal transmission Cartridge
and
#1112A is Internal transmission Cartridge w/RN8011 Gasket RN8011 is a fiber based gasket with rubber binder

Do I really need the RN8011? Also I guess the auto trannys are the same for 2WD vs 4WD?

And dang! I wish all the Oyota parts were ratiolly (sp?) that cheap! :drool:

Oh and I do have some leaks somewhere underneath. Does seem to be working correctly.

[timsrv]

I'm not sure about differences from one kit to another, just make sure it's for the van and it has all the pieces. It should include strainer, strainer gasket, and pan gasket. The kits I have use cork for the pan gaskets and paper for the strainer gasket. I'm indifferent to the type of gasket material. I've used both and never had a problem with either. If a person pulls the pan and does a service every 60k miles (like you're supposed to) either type gasket will do the job. Tim

PS: You are correct, 2wd & 4wd use the same kit.

[mahleek87]

I just changed my transmission oil the other day. I went to the dealer and bought 3 qts of the Toyota Automatic transmission fluid that is engineered to replace Dex II / III.

I pulled the drain plug on my tranny and let it drain for about 45 min- 1 hr. Then put the bolt back on and checked the dipstick. Dry as a bone. Started to add fluid. I added only 2 qts of ATF and looked at the dipstick and it said full in the hot zone. So I only added 2 qts of ATF even though I bought 3. Then two days later which is today I checked the dipstick in the morning before starting the van and noticed that the dipstick read that it is a little over full only after adding two qts? Does this mean that I added too much? Should I drain some out? What should the dipstick read on a cold van before starting? Is there a danger of adding a little too much fluid? Ive had bad luck with auto trannys and would like to make this one last as long as possible.

PS I just got this used transmission installed last year. This is the first time I have attempted changing the fluid after putting 26K on it this year. It came looking great. Clean/ no leaks, shifts great and the person who installed it said it came out of a van with less then 120,000 miles on it.

[timsrv]

I guess changing ATF without changing the filter/strainer is better than nothing, but kind of like putting dirty cloths back on after a shower. When you pull the pan & strainer you'll get more fluid out (that's why you got less than 2 quarts to drain). When I do the job, after removing the strainer I start the van and cycle through the gears to get a little more fluid out.

If the fluid level is less than 1/2" above the "full" line of the dipstick it's probably no big deal, but I wouldn't leave it there. Just get back under and drain some out. Don't rely too much on the "cold" fill mark. Drive the van until it's at operating temperature, then do the final fluid adjustment to the "hot" range of the dipstick. Check the dipstick while the van is at temperature & idling in park. Tim

PS: Major over filling the transmission (more than 1/2" over the "full line of the dipstick) is bad. If transmission fluid is high enough to contact the gears, they will whip the fluid into a foam. Foam is basically fluid mixed with air. The problem is air reduces the volume of fluid that's pumped and since it's compressible, the result is low fluid pressure & reduction in lubrication to the critical areas. Automatic transmission fluid is also used to transfer heat out of the transmission & when it's mixed with air it's less dense and less effective doing that. This can lead to slipping/overheating of the clutches and if driven this way for too long can burn or damage them.

[mahleek87]

Ok I will check the dipstick when the van is idling and is in park while its warm.

How often are you supposed to change the filter and transmission oil? I got this transmission a year ago and have put 26,000 miles on it since. Back when my mechanic installed it a year ago, he drained out 2-3 qts and put in a new filter as well as a new gasket.

[timsrv]

According to Toyota there isn't really any set schedule unless your van qualifies for "severe service". For "normal service" Toyota recommends checking for leaks and checking fluid level every 20k miles (they don't actually say when it should be replaced). The dealerships I worked at would replace transmission fluid as part of the 60k mile service. That seems about right to me so I always replace my ATF and swap out strainers every 60k mile intervals. I like the Amsoil synthetic ATF and have exclusively used that for many years (at least on the vehicles I cared about). Tim.

[honeybadger]

where do I put new transmission fluid in on a 5 speed??

[timsrv]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/MTfillplug_zpse430765e.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/MTtransservice_zpsf0255112.jpg


It's 24mm metric but 15/16" SAE fits it nicely too. You should use a 6 point socket as there isn't much surface area here. It's common for these to round-off so be careful. I'm sure they make special sockets for this, but I use a 6 point 15/16" socket that I ground down on a disc grinder. I removed some of the open side to get rid of the interior chamfer (this provides more surface area between the socket and plug). That socket fits nice and tight and I don't need to worry about it slipping and rounding the plug. BTW, this is the same size used on the fill plug too. The front differential (for you 4wd owners), manual transmissions & transfer cases use this same plug size. Broached sockets (relieved areas between sides of hex, like the one below) are also preferred as they are less likely to round off the plug. Tim


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Drive%20Train/IMG_2003_zpscc4bc3d9.jpg

Don't worry about measuring exact amounts. As long as the van is sitting reasonably level, just keep adding gear oil to the fill hole until oil starts coming back out (the bottom of the fill hole is the proper fill level). This is true for manual transmissions, transfer cases, & differentials too. In some places you'll have enough access to squeeze a quart bottle sideways (to force oil in), but in others you're limited on space. This is particularly true with the front differential (4wd). For this I use a gear oil pump (available at most auto parts stores). It fits on the top of the gear oil jug and pumps the oil through a clear vinyl tube. I bent a piece of copper tubing ~95 deg to go on the end of the vinyl tubing. The copper piece fits nicely in the front differential fill hole and will hang there while I pump gear oil.

As for getting the front differential fill plug off/on, this requires an extensive vocabulary of naughty words :swear: :LOL2:. Tim

[llamavan]

It also bears repeating:

ANYTIME you plan to drain fluid from anything, make sure you can remove the fill plug/port FIRST. THEN go ahead and drain away. It really sucks to have all the whatever drained out only to find you can't put anything back in ... :pissed: :wall: :swear:

Gwen

[timsrv]

Oh so true. Of course you could always teach your van to play dead, then use the drain hole as a fill hole :).

[EdCrono]

How do you get a diagnostic code when you have a check engine light on? I know about that two wire fuse under the driver seat that you have to somehow manipulate to get the check engine blinking light. How exactly do you "manipulate" this fuse?

Thanks! :dedhrs:

[llamavan]

How do you get a diagnostic code when you have a check engine light on? I know about that two wire fuse under the driver seat that you have to somehow manipulate to get the check engine blinking light. How exactly do you "manipulate" this fuse?

Thanks! :dedhrs:

How to get the codes:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?196-Engine-Service-Connector

What the codes mean:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?195-Diagnostic-Codes-for-Toyota-Vanwagons-all-years

Gwen

[EdCrono]

How to get the codes:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?196-Engine-Service-Connector

What the codes mean:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?195-Diagnostic-Codes-for-Toyota-Vanwagons-all-years

Gwen

Thanks for the help again. :thmbup: But I'm not getting any blinking engine light after I jump the fuse with a small copper wire and turn the key to the "on" position :cnfsd:. Where does that fuse lead to? Any idea which way to go?

Anything would help. You guys are great. I went from the Christmas Lights dashboard down to just my engine light. Can't thank you enough!! :grpwave:

[timsrv]

If you're following directions in those threads & not getting a blinking light, the next thing to check would normally be the CEL bulb. But since it's already illuminating (but not blinking) that indicates a faulty ECU. Tim

[EdCrono]

If you're following directions in those threads & not getting a blinking light, the next thing to check would normally be the CEL bulb. But since it's already illuminating (but not blinking) that indicates a faulty ECU. Tim

:dizzy: oh boy... :dizzy: Thanks again Tim! :thmbup:

[EdCrono]

If you're following directions in those threads & not getting a blinking light, the next thing to check would normally be the CEL bulb. But since it's already illuminating (but not blinking) that indicates a faulty ECU. Tim

New ECU on the way. I took the old one out from behind the driver's side seat belt and grabbed the part number, which turns out to be compatible with the '85 and '86 model as well. Hopefully that will turn the engine light off. If not, at least the code will do. I'll keep posting my outcomes. Again, thanks.:dance1:

[timsrv]

I'll be crossing my fingers for you. I've never purchased a new ECU. I've picked up a couple spares off eBay for around $10 though. I finally had my 1st ECU failure back in Feb. Turns out one of the $10 eBay units had the same part number so I swapped one in. That solved my problem & it's been running great ever since. I hope they didn't ding you too bad for the new one. Tim

[joegri]

just makes me remeber just how much any part is worth to ya when ya really need it. the longer my parts van sits there the more i,m gonna need it!

[EdCrono]

I'll be crossing my fingers for you. I've never purchased a new ECU. I've picked up a couple spares off eBay for around $10 though. I finally had my 1st ECU failure back in Feb. Turns out one of the $10 eBay units had the same part number so I swapped one in. That solved my problem & it's been running great ever since. I hope they didn't ding you too bad for the new one. Tim

:doh:I'm sorry, when I said new ECU I meant getting another one. I actually got it used on Ebay for $26.00. :thmbup:

[timsrv]

There you go. The only way to go with these old vehicles. :thmbup:

[EdCrono]

There you go. The only way to go with these old vehicles. :thmbup:

Hey Tim. Just got my ECU and installed it. Engine light is gone! I'm going to get it smogged tomorrow! You were right on the money! The ECU was bad! I'm so happy! :dance::dance1::dance:
My van was just sitting with me not being able to get it smogged! Thanks again! Yeeee!

[timsrv]

:dance2:

[holywolf]

So pertaining to the tranny filter/screen what one is it?

I went to toyota today to get the pan gasket and they said it does not take a filter it is just a screen.

When I went to napa they said they had a rubber gasket for 5 bucks or a cork gasket and filter for 22 bucks.

I remember reading on the different gaskets and Tim did not have an opinion on one being better than the other.

Toyota said their gasket is cork.

So if it is not an actual filter but a screen then why not clean the screen instead of replacing?

Thanks

[timsrv]

Yes it is a screen, and it could be cleaned. It's a very fine mesh and there are places inside that are not easily accessible. Still, I'm sure if you rinsed it in clean solvent enough times & blew out with air it would be about as good as a new one. One reason not to clean is because www.rockauto.com puts these kits on special every few months. As cheap as they are (about $3 each) it just doesn't make sense to waste time cleaning. Heck, the solvent alone would almost cost that much. Tim

[robgagnon]

Gee, I wish I had read this thread before doing that! So what are the big bad differences between the two fluids and how should I fix my mistake?

Thanks.

[timsrv]

That depends on where you put the power steering fluid. Nothing to worry about if you put it into your power steering reservoir. Power steering fluid still meets the minimum requirements of the power steering system. Dexron III is however cheaper & also happens to be what's recommended. Tim

[robgagnon]

I read a thread on not to do use other then Dexron II or III...
Thank you, Tim!

[ninz30]

Does anyone know how many quarts of ATF go in the 4speeds?

[timsrv]

About 5, however you can never get all the old out. The torque converter traps about half of it so you'll only be able to replace about 2 - 3 quarts at a time. If it's contaminated you'll need to change multiple times (driving a bit between changes). In severe cases of contamination (like engine coolant mixed with ATF) I've actually drilled a hole in the torque converter, drained, then threaded and installed a pipe plug :wnk:. (I wouldn't recommend that for routine ATF changes).

[ninz30]

About 5, however you can never get all the old out. The torque converter traps about half of it so you'll only be able to replace about 2 - 3 quarts at a time. If it's contaminated you'll need to change multiple times (driving a bit between changes). In severe cases of contamination (like engine coolant mixed with ATF) I've actually drilled a hole in the torque converter, drained, then threaded and installed a pipe plug :wnk:. (I wouldn't recommend that for routine ATF changes).

Thanks Tim! I may have figured out a way to get all the ATF out. While draining my tranny I accidentally stripped the drain plug. So I left it off while I ran to the dealer for a replacement. A day and a half later I replaced the plug and I noticed more fluid had drained out and was all over the slab.

I referred to the manual which calls for 2.5 qts. It quickly became apparent 2.5 is not enough. Anyway thanks for the quick response. I'll be adding the missing 1.5qts.

[AnotherUser]

Hi, I am trying to find out where the starter is? Is this hard to switch out, and what would be a good price for a new one?

Thanks

[timsrv]

It's under the oil filter (passenger side where the engine bolts to the transmission). Here's an article that talks about starters: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?229-Re-Ignition-switch-question

[Orion J.]

Apologies if this topic has been discussed but I haven't found a ton of posts about oil filters. I did find information on where to locate it behind the passenger seat.

First off, I am mechanically incompetent and know very little about cars in general. I have owned my van for a year and gotten two oil changes so far. A few months ago I took it to Oil Can Henry's to do a cheap oil change and they didn't change the oil filter, since they claimed they couldn't access it from beneath. At the time I didn't think much of it, but I've started to get the feeling that I should switch it out myself.

I have located it and now I'm thinking of taking it out. Do I need a special tool or can I twist it off easily?

Is it imperative to drain the old oil out first?

[timsrv]

Since this is basic Van information, I moved your post to the thread "Basic Van knowledge for new owners". If you slide the passenger seat forward and lift the carpet, you will see an access panel cover held on with one screw (reference pics 4,5,& 7 in the 1st post of this thread). The oil filter can be accessed from here, but I usually just reach up from underneath and replace it without removing this cover (I'm already down there taking the drain plug off). Whether or not you need a filter wrench will depend on how tight the old filter is. I'll usually take the wrench with me when I lay down to pull the plug, but I try to do it by hand 1st (as I don't always need the wrench). Some oil will usually come out, but it will usually be less than 1/4 cup. Whether or not there's oil still in the engine will not affect the volume that leaks out here. I try to have a wad of paper towels handy to catch any leaking oil before it drips down off the filter pedestal.

Word of warning: Before trying to install the new filter, make sure the O-ring or rubber seal from your old filter is accounted for. I'll usually reach up there and run my finger around the filter mount surface just to be sure there's no foreign material there. There have been cases where a filter installer neglected this step and the rubber seal part of the old filter was left behind. Usually this would cause a big leak and be noticed right away..........but it's possible to get a temporary seal that can blow-out at any time (probably while driving on the highway when temperatures and pressures are at their highest). If such an event occurs, the results can be catastrophic to your engine. Since OC Henry put new oil in without replacing the filter, deciding to replace oil again would be up to you. Putting new oil in without changing the filter is like putting dirty cloths back on after a shower (so it depends on just how dirty your cloths are). Since anti-drain back valves are meant to hold dirty oil inside the filter, if your old filter has one, the dirty oil left in there would have been mixed with the new oil on start-up. Probably no big deal, just not a good practice to change oil without replacing filter.

Since our filters are installed "upside down" you should be replacing with one that has an anti-drain back valve (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3JulJDNpeU). Most quality oil filters will have that, but not all will. You can tell by looking in the open side of the filter. If you can see into the smaller holes around the big hole, then it doesn't have one. If the holes appear to be blocked by a rubber barrier, then it has it. If you have any doubts, get a factory filter from Toyota. For any van (other than an automatic 4wd) IMO the best choice of filter is Toyota #15601-33021 (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~filter~sub~assy~oil~15601-33021.html). Not all dealerships carry this one, but they can still get it. There are several different externally sized filters that will fit on the van and many different types/sizes of filter wrenches. The wrench you choose will depend on the filter you use and how you are trying to replace (from the top or from the bottom). If you're using the 15601-33021 filter, and you're reaching up from underneath to replace, the wrench to use would be THIS ONE (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J3007-Filter-Wrench/dp/B001HWDF48/ref=sr_1_101?ie=UTF8&qid=1428818124&sr=8-101&keywords=oil+filter+wrench). If you're going down from the top, I'd probably try to use a "cap wrench" (some call it a "cup wrench") that's designed for the specific filter you're using. Using a ratchet and extension (of an appropriate length) would be advised with the cap wrench method. The size cap wrench that fits the 15601-33021 is 80 mm x 15 flute (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-61550-80mm-15-Flute-Wrench/dp/B00AKA6LW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430411651&sr=8-1&keywords=80+mm+cap+wrench+15). When putting the new one on, the correct tightness is about as tight as you can go (comfortably) with hand pressure only. If you use a filter wrench to snug it down, be careful not to go too tight (or you'll regret it next time around). Tim

[Orion J.]

Thanks Tim! :)

[potatovan]

a empty and well cleaned out dish soap bottle makes filling your brake fluid quicker and with no mess.

[BajaHiAce]

Hey Tim- I'm the new owner of an JDM van and have been reading as much as I can here to get more familiar with it. Enjoying all the tips and advice on the site. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I just purchased a 1989 4x4 Diesel HiAce with only 46,000 original miles. I have no documentation or history on it so I will be systematically replacing all the fluids and filters and starting fresh. In this thread you mention your goto oil filter for all vans (besides the automatic 4wd) is the Toyota #15601-33021. Well, I have an A/T 4wd diesel. The filter I have cross referenced is #90915-03006. Do you have experience with these engines and what filter would you recommend? Can I assume that many of the OEM parts on the RHD Japan Imports translate to the US vans?

Thanks-

[timsrv]

I know nothing about diesel vans and have not personally ever worked on one. This is because Toyota never imported these to the US market. For this reason I cannot comment regarding which parts may or may not interchange. You may wish to post your question to the forum specific to diesel vans as somebody there may be able to answer.

The reason gas powered automatic 4wd vans can't use the same filter as the other gas powered vans is because they have an oil cooler that sits on the oil filter platform (kind of like a filter sandwich). This lifts the filter up making the 15601-33021 too tall. The filter originally called out for the gas powered 4wd automatics was 15600-25010 (NLA) which now crosses over to #90915-YZZD1 (and probably others). Tim

[BajaHiAce]

10/4 Tim. No worries. Thanks for the quick reply.
I've since found a good parts cross reference site for JDM vehicles which I shared in the Diesel forum.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref

[AnotherUser]

Trying to locate the ignition coil, any good pictures or diagrams? Thanks

[timsrv]

It's inside the distributor.

[AnotherUser]

It's inside the distributor.

Thanks, I'm used to my old Toyota truck that had the coil separate. I am not able to remove the 4 screws to get the ignition coil off where it's at. Do you know how many bolts hold on the distributor and if there are any issues removing it to get to the coil and then putting it back on, is it hard to get the shaft back in?

[timsrv]

There are some here who have replaced the coil without removing the distributor or disturbing the timing. They usually comment on one fastener being a PITA, but are usually successful. Personally I always remove the distributor 1st, then replace the coil with the distributor held in a vice. Doing it this way it's easier to get to everything but you will need to re-align the distributor gear and reset timing. With my way I don't worry about aligning TDC. I just hand rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing in an easy to remember position (usually straight forward). Since the gears are helical, when you remove it the distributor shaft will rotate a few degrees. I just make a mental note of the approximate position after removal, then when I go to put it back in, I start there. As the distributor drops, the gears will engage and it will rotate slightly as you drop it in. Make sure it drops all the way down on the base. If it doesn't drop all the way, pull it back out and use a slot tip screwdriver to align the oil pump down inside the engine, then try again. Once it seats, make sure it's aligned the same as before you removed. If not, pull it back out and try again (you'll get the hang of it).

Once it's back in the hole, try to set it back to the same spot it was before. Next hook up a timing light, put a jumper wire into the "check engine connector", start engine and check timing. Use the service manual for more specific instruction. Here's a link to the PDF download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u_5zlshRsVDv5v86CiukP7wOD7nKyF/view

[bleuhayes]

I am new to the forum. this thread was a great guide to me so far. I recently broke the serpentine belt.
Is there a diagram somewhere for Drive Belt Replacement? or a guide so I don't mess this up. because if anyone could mess this up it's me. thanks!

[timsrv]

The good thing about the serpentine belt is it's obvious what pulleys it rides on (only one serpentine belt). The bad thing is it's the farthest one back. This means the other 2 belts must be removed before you can change it. Since you'll be pulling all the belts you should replace them all. 1st pull the power steering, then the AC (if still equipped), then the Serpentine (if there's anything left of it). The PS & the Alt belt will need to be worked around the fan (coming off and going back on). This can be fun with the fan shroud in the way, but is manageable. Just work it over the fan one blade at a time until it's free. When all the belts are back on tighten them a bit tighter than normal as new belts stretch. If you don't know how tight to make them it's better to stay on the loose side. If they squeal, they're too loose :dizzy:. There's actually a tensioning tool (perhaps available for rent at Autozone or equivalent). There is such a thing as too tight, and you don't want to go there. The alternator belt is easy because there's a wing nut that is tightened by hand. When doing that one, just crank the wing nut as tight as you can (without tools), then tighten the set bolts (upper and lower alternator mount bolts).

For removing the AC & PS belts you will need to loosen the idler pulleys. To do that you'll need to loosen the the set bolts in the front/center of the pulley (14 mm) then use the long threaded 12 mm bolt to loosen/tighten. After the new belts are on & tight, snug up the center "set" bolts. Have fun. Tim

PS: You might try searching the forum for more information. Here's a thread on the subject: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2115-A-C-power-steering-and-fan-(water-pump-alternator)-belts

[bleuhayes]

Awesome, it was super easy. I went ahead and just changed out all of the belts.
Started it up. there were no squealing noises until I turned on the heat/air with the controls in the back seat.

The squealing kicked in and was outrageously loud. I'm guessing this means the serpentine belt is too loose?

[timsrv]

It's possible turning on the fan increased the load on the alternator (causing a loose alternator belt to squeal) or perhaps you inadvertently turned on the rear AC (assuming your AC system is still intact) and that belt was loose.........or perhaps the compressor is seized-up :shock:.

If it's a loose alternator belt, it should react the same way when the front fan is turned on and/or your headlights are turned on. Tim

[gUh]

Hi,

New to this thread. Have been lurking for a bit of time. wanted to say Thanks for the info. You guys are awesome!

[spacecruisers]

this thread has been my go-to since buying my van :)

this is going to sound really dumb, but my van is missing the OEM jack, and i was wondering what the factory recommended jack points are? anyone know? whats your favorite way to jack it?

[timsrv]

These are the factory jack points:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/Jack%20points_zpsnctyf4a4.jpg

I usually use a floor jack and do the back from the differential housing. After throwing a couple of jack stands under the axle, I jack the front from the center of the cross-member under the radiator (for 2wd vans). On the 4wd vans, I usually use a jack and a block of wood under each of the factory jack points. When the height is adequate, I put tall jack stands under the sway bar bushing brackets. These brackets are round and fit nicely (and securely) in the axle sockets of the jack stands. Tim

PS: Never jack a 4wd van from the front differential.

[Ace MM]

Slider door maintenance:
Cleaning?
Best lube?
Should the floor track be clean and dry?
I get a lot of sand in mine...

[Sir Goofy]

I use the WD40 Silicon based lubricant on anything that squeaks or has trouble moving on my van including the sliding rollers, the tracks they sit in, front door hinges, the windows' tracks, and the hydraulics on the back hatch so they smoothly fully extend.

[timelessvehicles91]

Hi does anyone know what type of Gas I should put in My 1985 Toyota Van Cargo 5 Speed Manual? Regular or Premium? Also does anyone know the Thread I can find help on Body work, Mine has a few dents and bends on the metal. Sliding door and Passenger door. :silvervan:

[JPERL]

Regular Octane 87 or higher is fine. I found no benefit running 91 octane

[nattyvanman]

For removing the AC & PS belts you will need to loosen the idler pulleys. To do that you'll need to loosen the the set bolts in the front/center of the pulley (14 mm) then use the long threaded 12 mm bolt to loosen/tighten. After the new belts are on & tight, snug up the center "set" bolts. Have fun. Tim



So my van lived most in the salty Illinois area, so I'm having to deal with a lot of rust. So I need to replace those idle pulleys, but the mount for the PS one (which is the middle belt I believe) is pretty rusty and i'm scared I might bust the mount trying to get the old pulley off. Is there a part number for the mount or will I have to find a scrapped one?:cnfsd: I can always try to use the old one, but I'm trying to get rid of rusty stuff as I go. Any thoughts or directions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
:dance2:

[timsrv]

Assuming this isn't you're only vehicle, I'd just put the brute force to it and if it breaks, then deal with it. If not then count your blessings. I suspect multiple Toyota vehicles from this era would have interchangeable parts, so if it breaks, and it's not easy to extract/replace, I'd take your busted parts to the salvage yard to compare/match-up. Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

Here's an example of a interchangeable part-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8844035010-Accessory-Belt-Idler-Pulley-New-Chevy-for-Toyota-Corolla-4Runner-Kia-/322111515517?fits=Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AVan+Wago n&hash=item4aff57ab7d:g:qHAAAOSw4CFYuR12&vxp=mtr

JDM

[timsrv]

Here's an example of a interchangeable part-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8844035010-Accessory-Belt-Idler-Pulley-New-Chevy-for-Toyota-Corolla-4Runner-Kia-/322111515517?fits=Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AVan+Wago n&hash=item4aff57ab7d:g:qHAAAOSw4CFYuR12&vxp=mtr

JDM

There you go. It might not be a bad idea to have one of those on hand before going neanderthal on the rusty bolt.

Regarding the long adjustment bolt, if you need that too, here's one http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Full-Thread-Belt-Tensioner-Adjuster-Bolt-M8x1-25x90-Ships-Fast-/161887740927?hash=item25b142e3ff:g:F~IAAOSwyZ5UoeZ r&vxp=mtr. That's pretty spendy for just a bolt, so I suspect you can do better. But it's easy to add to the cart when you check out. Tim

[takeshi14121990]

The article is very useful for reference :yes:

[BigDawgGottaEat]

Hi -
I have a bunch of stuff under the hood dismantled, trying to address issues with the fuel injectors and power steering leaks -- I am also trying to fix anything odd that I come across while I have such good access, but my knowledge is a bit limited. Hoping someone can help me identify 2 spots:
5282
I am assuming this is some kind of coolant temp sensor? There was nothing attached to it and it was caked full of a dried silicone type substance.

5283
In pictures of Tim's nice clean engine these holes have bolts in them. What do these holes do?

Thanks for any guidance.

[timsrv]

5283
In pictures of Tim's nice clean engine these holes have bolts in them. What do these holes do?

Thanks for any guidance.

What? No bolts here in any of my engines. Not sure why these holes are here, but they serve no purpose that I know of. Here's a view of this area on my 86 van:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3248_zps9957cd3a.jpg

That "sensor" is worthless anyhow and IMO you're better off the single wire that goes there is grounded out. It's actually a temperature switch that only activates when the coolant temperature reaches 230° F. It's talked about in the "HEAT SOAK" (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?289-Is-it-the-infamous-hot-soak) thread. If you find the wire that's supposed to go there, simply ground it out (perhaps a previous owner already did). Attaching that wire to a ground point will improve your van's ability to combat heat soak issues. Tim

[AD2101]

According to Toyota there isn't really any set schedule unless your van qualifies for "severe service". For "normal service" Toyota recommends checking for leaks and checking fluid level every 20k miles (they don't actually say when it should be replaced). The dealerships I worked at would replace transmission fluid as part of the 60k mile service. That seems about right to me so I always replace my ATF and swap out strainers every 60k miles. I like the Amsoil synthetic ATF and have exclusively used that for many years (at least on the vehicles I cared about). Tim.

I've owned my van for a little over 4 years and have put about 28,000 miles on it, and I recently realized I haven't even touched the transmission since I bought it, and I'm not sure when the last time the previous owner touched it either. There are no issues that I can tell with the transmission as far as how it feels or operates, and the fluid appears to be full and, while not bright pink, still is pinkish at least and doesn't appear burnt or otherwise damaged.

Anyways, I know I need to address this ASAP, the question is how should I go about it? I imagine a flush wouldn't be good and would probably be better off with a simple drain-and-fill. However, I don't really know what type of fluid is in there now, if it's Dex, Merc, synthetic, etc. I thought that I read somewhere here that Amsoil plays nice with other transmission fluid types, but I haven't been able to find that post again. I've also read to just "not touch it" as replacing fluid could actually grenade the transmission if the fluid was black/burnt/metallic before replacing fluid. I don't think my transmission is anywhere near that but want to be sure.

So what should you do with an otherwise normal operating automatic transmission that you don't know the history on and don't know exactly what brand/type of fluid was put in there when it was last serviced?

[timsrv]

Whenever I get a vehicle with unknown automatic transmission service history, I start out by draining, removing the pan & checking for excessive metal flakes (there's always a little black fuzz on the magnet(s). If all looks good I replace the filter/strainer, thoroughly clean the magnets & pan, reinstall the pan w/new gasket, then service with an approved fluid. On our vans you can use Dexron III, Dex Merc, or any synthetic fluid that is compatible/friendly to mixing with those and says that it meets or exceeds the minimal requirements of the vehicle manufacturer.

I use Amsoil synthetic ATF but there are others. Tim

[lamont]

I bought a fuel filter for my 1985 but it did not include any washers? I think I read somewhere that the washers should be replaced when changing filter. And advice?
Thanks


Rawb, sorry but until now I somehow missed your post. I'm sure you've already figured it out but I wanted to reply so the "next guy" could benefit.

The fuel filter is on the passenger side of the engine between the distributor and the oil filter (see arrow in picture below):


This is a big filter so unless you have a contaminated fuel system (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?188-Fuel-gauge-not-working/page2) it should only need to be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals. To access and replace you must 1st remove the passenger side seat, center console and engine access panel. Before you remove any lines, loosen the fuel cap enough to release pressure from the system. When pressure is gone use a 6 point 17mm socket on the top banjo bolt and remove. After that's off use a 12mm socket with an extension to remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the block. The lower fuel line is flexible, so once the bracket bolts are removed the filter can be maneuvered to a position favorable to access the lower fitting. Again, a 6 point 17mm socket will fit the banjo bolt, but since the filter is loose you'll also need a 19mm open end wrench to back things up (counter torque). Tim

[timsrv]

I bought a fuel filter for my 1985 but it did not include any washers? I think I read somewhere that the washers should be replaced when changing filter. And advice?
Thanks

Always best to replace those washers, but they can be reused in a pinch. Just make sure to check for leaks before putting the engine cover back on. I know the OE Toyota filters come with new copper washers, but not sure about aftermarket ones. You can always buy new copper washers as they should be available at any auto parts store. Just take an old washer and/or your banjo bolt down to help them match it up. Tim

[lamont]

Thanks Tim! I think I will go to the parts store and get new ones just to be safe....would hate to have a leak and set my van on fire!

[bushcat]

I just bought an '85 Toyota Van, 194K miles. It has no service records, previous owner bought it from someone who had a folder of records which he didn't deem necessary to keep. He told me the seals were done by PO and that he kept up on oil changes while he owned it but otherwise has done zero work. Can I trust him? Who knows, but it drove back to my house just fine. One thing I know from my research on here, it needs a new thermostat.

1. Oil change (10w30)
2. I'm going to replace the thermostat (with an OEM) one and maybe an aftermarket gasket.
3. Flush the radiator - never done this before but I want to remove any blockages.
4. Going to inspect the hoses and see if they need replacing, anybody have a good active source?

What else should I do as a new owner of a van with 194k miles that has zero maintenance records?

I'm putting this here because I barely have basic van knowledge and I'm not sure what needs to be done. I can delete/move to appropriate thread if this isn't fitting.

[bushcat]

It's mentioned to buy the largest battery possible. What is the largest battery that will fit? I have a 1985. Thanks!

[PNW vanwagon]

It's mentioned to buy the largest battery possible. What is the largest battery that will fit? I have a 1985. Thanks!

I just did this: group 27 was perfect fit. You'll need to fashion a new strap down for bigger battery

[Flecker]

Always best to replace those washers, but they can be reused in a pinch. Just make sure to check for leaks before putting the engine cover back on. I know the OE Toyota filters come with new copper washers, but not sure about aftermarket ones. You can always buy new copper washers as they should be available at any auto parts store. Just take an old washer and/or your banjo bolt down to help them match it up. Tim


Also, if you have a butane torch handy, I find it best to anneal them also. Heating up the old copper washers expands them so they will crush when re-used.

:wnk:

[trestlehed]

I just did this: group 27 was perfect fit. You'll need to fashion a new strap down for bigger battery

I have had good luck with this battery as well.
Napa Legend #7527 Group: 27
1000 cranking amps
810 cold cranking amps

You will need some nylon straps to lower it in/pull it out of the battery bay.

7187

[Wrench]

My service manual makes no mention of how to drain the power steering reservoir, only how to top it up. Is this simply unnecessary? I have been draining and replacing fluids one by one and figured this is something I should do eventually.

[timsrv]

I usually pull the pressure feed line off the rack, put it in a jug, start the engine, and let it dump into the jug. I am in WA state though, and they don't salt the roads (undercarriages here are relitively rust free). If you have a rusty one, then I probably would avoid trying to remove. If you do remove, I'd recommend using a quality tubing wrench. Here's a link to a thread where this has been discussed: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?214-Power-steering-system-noise. Tim

[Wrench]

I usually pull the pressure feed line off the rack, put it in a jug, start the engine, and let it dump into the jug. I am in WA state though, and they don't salt the roads (undercarriages here are relitively rust free). If you have a rusty one, then I probably would avoid trying to remove. If you do remove, I'd recommend using a quality tubing wrench. Here's a link to a thread where this has been discussed: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?214-Power-steering-system-noise. Tim
Thanks Tim! I'm in BC so this should be a viable option for me. Cheers!

[89van]

Old thread but I haven't seen an in-depth diagram for doing your spare tire for vans fitted with leaf springs (4x4 vans and vans fitted with coil springs are unknown to me but may follow different jacking points/tire hold downs/ whatever else so do with this with a grain of salt; corrections are appreciated!!!) so I made my own for you fellow van owners out there who may be curious about this!
11178

Found out about the spare tire from fooling around with tools and putting 2+2 together. Also, pictures of the factory jacking points sticker will be included tomorrow, lost sun tonight to get a good photo. :)

[TheMagicBoy]

Nice drawings

[Tim H]

Hello, I’m new here and am restoring and 86 van wagon that had been sitting for 6 years and I need to drain the gas. Anyone know if there is a plug or if I will have to siphon or pump it out? Thanks!