View Full Version : Stripped oil pan.
ratatouille
01-07-2015, 06:19 AM
long story short, I've got a stripped oil pan. Would it be best, to try and repair, like drilling and tapping a bigger diameter hole? Or will I need to replace oil pan ?
I tried a plastic expanding plug replacement to buy me a little time after my last oil change when I noticed I couldn't tighten the bolt due it probably being cross threaded last. and it didn't last very long, maybe 100 miles before I noticed my van running extremely rough and loud clattering sound while goin down the road. I peeled off as fast as I could and as I investigated I found no plug in sight, and probably left several quarts of new oil down the past couple miles of freeway. I hope I no serious damage occurred else where....
thanks for the help.
timsrv
01-07-2015, 03:49 PM
Tough call. Yes they can be rethreaded, and this can even be done while the pan is installed, but the last thing you need is metal shavings inside the oil pan. For this reason it would be advisable to remove the pan to fix. If you do it with the pan on, I would (at the very least) take extra measures to remove metal debris after repair (things like bent Q-tips, extra flushing, etc). There are multiple ways to fix, but which you choose will depend on how bad the damage is. If it's only the threads missing, then I'd probably tap to the next size up. Metric or SAE threads don't matter (as long as you have a suitable replacement plug). If I remember right, these plugs use a 12mm thread (you should verify). If that's the case, you can simply use a 1/2 - 20 tap without drilling. For enlarging threads, it can be difficult to get it started straight, so I'd recommend a taper tap (http://www.amazon.com/Cle-Line-C62065-Taper-Chamfer-Hand/dp/B00M44M3ZK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1420663119&sr=8-9&keywords=1%2F2+20+taper+tap). Here's a link to a drain plug that will fit after this mod: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-65267?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAz7OlBRDErsTx47LKz-8BEiQAY0OlYrrpMjMoMHoPck7-DjJjZ_1U-SXgTgxDdTatM2xEnSgaApvI8P8roflroflrofl.
Good luck and keep us posted with how it comes out. Tim
ratatouille
01-07-2015, 04:54 PM
Thanks Tim. I'm assuming the oil pan is steel?
This morning I used a "self-tapping", Metric 12 plug from Orielly's as another quick fix to get me to and from work for the day. I was skeptical screwing it in as it didn't seem like it was really re-tapping the hole. It required a lot of force to screw in. I was told to "..just jam it in there." I kept a little container under it as it sat today and sure enough its leaking pretty good. I don't recommend this route to those that might encounter a slightly stripped pan. At first mine didn't seem to bad, and now it's blown out.
At this point, with the cost of replacing the oil and trying out all the different "pan-savers" at the auto store, I'm thinking I might as well just get a new pan, or go Tim's said route and remove to repair. I wouldn't mind peeping into the engine from below anyways...
I've got part # 12101-71031 for a new pan if I end up having to go that route.
Is the gasket just silicone type to reseal?
ratatouille
01-07-2015, 06:36 PM
Sweet..came across this just now answering my gasket question: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2541-About-to-Install-Oil-Pan
Oil pan is steel correct?
Burntboot
01-07-2015, 09:44 PM
Correct.
ratatouille
02-03-2015, 03:55 PM
Finally getting around to taking pan off..up on the lift at the moment and want to get some wisdom before moving forward. I'm assuming that I'll need to remove sway bar. Will the pan rotate and shimmy out with only sway removed? Thank you.
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Burntboot
02-03-2015, 09:17 PM
I happened to have the sway bar off when I did mine, probably a good plan to have it out of the way as it was a tight fit.
Make sure you pull the oil level sensor before pulling the pan and you should be good to go.
Can't remember if anything else being in the way, but I don't think so.
ratatouille
02-04-2015, 01:12 AM
Thanks burnt. Removed sensor and broke the float on sensor...grr. That thing is pretty brittle. Looks really tight but will give it a go and report.
Anything I can maintenance or check from the bottom end of engine with just oil pan off?
djshimon
02-04-2015, 02:21 AM
I had a heck of a time getting my pan(4x4 also) back on without it leaking-it may have been bent in the removal process but I didn't know what I was doing and didn't check for straightness. One of those cross bars should be moved, maybe both, I can't remember. And I think the two mounts that attach to the transmission(from the engine) can be removed or at least loosened so you can get to one of the pan corners that was impossible to thread on by hand. I didn't have a lift so that will definitely be a huge benefit for you.
Burntboot
02-04-2015, 09:46 AM
DJ - now that you mention it, I did remove the crossmember between the lower control arms.
(I also pulled the dipstick out, the fewer things to get around the better)
I also did mine in the driveway and being on a lift would have been a lot easier.
I put a new one in as the old one was rust perforated and leaking profusely.
(didn't have to worry about bent flanges or old gasket goop)
About the only thing to action while you're in there would be to check (and clean) the pick-up screen for the oil pump .
djshimon
02-04-2015, 10:39 AM
Yeah Burnt,
I'm with you on the new pan-I wish I would've bought a new pan for the job-just take out as many leaky factors as possible.
ratatouille
02-04-2015, 01:22 PM
Thanks for the input..through some cursing and puzzling different elbow extensions on the socket wrench I was able to reach all bolts with out removing transmission mounts. I wasn't sure I wanted to go that route..yet. So instead I grinded one of my sockets so it would clear the mount and grip the bolt head enough.
With pan now dropped its obvious I'll def need to drop the cross member between control arms to get it all the way out. Appreciate the help fellas.
ratatouille
02-06-2015, 04:12 PM
Old out and new one in. It was a careful squeeze in there to not drag the new oil pan FIPG seal as I was sliding it in but it worked out. Getting the bolts back in was easy except the one corner I mentioned before. Took me FOREVER to finger it in enough to get a the socket I made in to tighten.
here's a pick after pan came off. I was expecting to see more sludge or at least metal shavings after my close call loosing all my oil while driving...
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