Oil Pan Removal and Re-installation

[ToyotaVanNut]

Any tips or tricks to know? It is on an '85 Toyota Van. Do I need to use sealant?

[timsrv]

You should get a tube of FIPG (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed---Place/dp/B000EDDTV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420281874&sr=8-1&keywords=toyota+fipg) (Form In Place Gasket). Here's a link to my blog entry where I'm installing a pan: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/entry.php?53-4yec-Engine-Rebuild-part-12

[Reducto]

Any problems with just using a felpro gasket instead of the sealant? I need to change out a dented pan with the engine in the van and don't know if I could get a good bead with the open end down.

[timsrv]

I bought a bunch of 4y cork oil pan gaskets several years ago. I got them because I had a hard time trusting FIPG alone and wanted to be prepared. However, when I get into the "engine assembling frame of mind" I always revert back to the Toyota way (FIPG only). I've never actually had a pan off a van with the engine still installed, so I can't say for certain which way I'd go. I would probably rehearse ahead of time by holding the pan up to the block. If I thought I could do the final install without messing up the FIPG, then I'd apply it to the pan, then install. If however it was a PITA to get the pan to the right place (without dragging the seal surface), I'd probably use the pre-cut gasket. Good luck with whatever you decide. Tim

[Burntboot]

I replaced my oil pan with the engine in situ, being that your's is a 2WD, I would think it would be a walk in the park to swap out, by comparison.
I used FIPG and was happy with the results, didn't have any significant issues getting the pan back into place.

Personally, I have no love of cork gaskets.
They are far too easy to over-tighten and they not fond of excessive heat.
BB
PS - I put the FIPG on the pan, before getting it anywhere near the vehicle, it has a long tack time, not at all like typical silicone sealants.

[ratatouille]

This is probably a dumb question, but does anything need to be moved to get the oil pan out? or will it slide out once bolts are off ? Might be doing this in my driveway.

[Burntboot]

Not a dumb question at all.

Always a good idea to drain the oil first.:wnk:

Not sure if 85 has the oil level sensor but if it does, you'll want to pull it prior to dropping the pan, saves buying a new sensor.

The rest should be straight forward.
BB

[Dirtlivingston]

When you are putting your oil pan on do you use the FIPG sealant as well as a gasket? Or one or the other?

[Dogfish]

I use an FIPG. Keep in mind there is no pressure there... you just need to seal it. I guess I would use a gasket if I got one in a set... but normally I wouldn't waste a trip into town to pick one up.

-Jim

[Dirtlivingston]

Nicce i already have a gasket but in the manual it said to use fipg and didnt mention a gasket so i was a little confused

[oldvanguy]

just wondering if anyone has had to replace the oil pan on their van because of rust? my tech says it could rupture causing total loss of oil and quick destruction of motor. he said it is common on ford pick-up trucks. the pan is brown and rusty looking with a coating of oil. the level on dipstick is good and i notice no leaks on my garage floor. although the van was raised in montana, it's spent the last 16 years here in wisconsin but only driven in winter for a couple/three years and not at all in the past ten. might this tech, whom i've not known very long, be trying to sell me a repair i don't really need. all opinions welcome. thanks.

[Chowfunstudios]

Yes, i have this problem also, and mine is pretty rusted at the moment but I have a used one which I refinished and powdercoated. Will put that on soon. Strange that most of the rust is there..

[oldvanguy]

thanks for your response. i will proceed with the replacement.

[Burntboot]

Not uncommon at all, at least in the rust belt.
That was one of the first repairs I did. post purchase.
I went OEM, as used was not an option.
Make sure you remove the level sensor before trying to pull the pan

In my experience, if there is flaky rust present and you scrape off some of the flakes and find dampness(oil) under the flakes, it needs replacing ASAP.
Generally speaking, dry surface rust doesn't pose a problem.
Shampooing is usually the first rule in locating leaks.
BB

[oldvanguy]

thanks Burntboot. so the the oil level sensor is removed from the exterior of the pan?

[Burntboot]

That is correct sir.
Pull the sender (4 bolts IIRC) and remember to get new gaskets for it.

[oldvanguy]

mr Burntboot: any idea about where to get the oil level sensor gasket(s)? do you have a part # perhaps? thanks.

[oldvanguy]

found that part #: 90430-27001

[Suzu]

Just wondering how big a job it is to replace the oil pan gasket.

[Flecker]

The FSM goes into some pretty good clarity on the oil pan.
HERE! (http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=Factory+service+manual+for+a+1987+toyota+van+to yotavantech.com)

Your welcome! :thmbup:

[nickgorey]

I replaced my oil pan with the engine in situ, being that your's is a 2WD, I would think it would be a walk in the park to swap out, by comparison.
I used FIPG and was happy with the results, didn't have any significant issues getting the pan back into place.

Personally, I have no love of cork gaskets.
They are far too easy to over-tighten and they not fond of excessive heat.
BB
PS - I put the FIPG on the pan, before getting it anywhere near the vehicle, it has a long tack time, not at all like typical silicone sealants.

I attempted this yesterday and could not fully remove the oil pan because of the oil pump. Just a heads up to others! Not sure if it’s an ‘89 thing, the height my engine is at, or what, but what a wonderful surprise lol

[Diy2k]

Yo!


Don’t be afraid to use your jack on the engine. Lift the engine up a few inches and it will give way to the pan.

Also don’t forget the frame stiffeners.

[nickgorey]

yooo! that's a great tip. In an exhausted panic I did the FIPG upside-down on the engine then reattached the pan...horrible time, lots of cursing, and not too confident in the longevity of that seal. I'll have to try it again with this knowledge.

[Burntboot]

One shouldn't be able to "just lift the engine a couple of inches"

Now if you undo the mounts you can get an inch +/-, but you have to be careful.
Its easy to crush things (above/around the engine) with that method, also the potential for stretching/stressing hoses and wiring.

[Diy2k]

Toyotavantech: Noooo you can’t lift the engine too much

DIY mechanics: hahah jack go Uga Duga

[Burntboot]

Well, I didn't say you COULDN'T, just that you shouldn't.

If ya did and the engine moved that much, you may want to get some engine mounts ordered up.
If they're in good nic, the engine should only move a fraction of inch before the chassis starts moving with it.

[timsrv]

Toyotavantech: Noooo you can’t lift the engine too much

DIY mechanics: hahah jack go Uga Duga


Lol, and then professional mechanic go: hahah kaching kaching

[MyToy]

Greetings to all.

Found a very bad oil leak coming from by oil pan. It was only coming out of the back left corner, the corner that is below the oil filter drivers side. Well you would thing this would be a walk in the park but........... the one12mm bolt that is in that corner where the leak is is positioned very close to the body frame where a socket wrench cannot be put on to tighten. Anybody have a tip on how to do this or do I have to lift the engine out, :pissed: nope, not me.

Here is a picture of the bolt

[Burntboot]

MT - been awhile since I crawled under but IIRC, the frame rail shouldn't be that close to the engine.
Is it possible that its the transmission stiffener plate, that is in your way?

[MyToy]

Hey buddy, I am not sure what a stiffer plate looks like. I will have to get under there again to look but if memory serves me well it is a big chunk of metal and not sheet metal.

Will advisve

mt

[Burntboot]

They are cast iron brackets that bolt onto the bottom of the block, just above the oil pan.
The other end attaches to the lower section of the bell housing.( like a 45 degree brace)
They are often in the way, but easy enough to re&re.

[MyToy]

Yep, that is what they are for sure.

What do you mean by saying "easy enough to re&re?"

That's a new one for me

MT

[Burntboot]

Sorry, old shorthand.

re&re = Remove and Replace

[MyToy]

Oh crap, am I slow or what:yes:

Thanks buddy, will keep you posted

MT

[MyToy]

Hey Burnboot:

OK, well I did not have to take off the that piece but you were spot on. I was able to get around it to see the leak was coming from the oil filter housing where it mounts on to the block.Coming right out of the bolt there. I cannot seem to find anyone who even knows what this gasket/O ring is. There is nothing on the site about it. So I guess I will have to take it out and see what it is and punt. If you know anything about it let me know.

Thanks again for all the help.

MT

[Burntboot]

Like this?


Toyota (https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/)Van (https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/van/)YR29LV (https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/van/yr29lv/)YR29LV-PRBEK (https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/van/yr29lv/2317/)Engine, fuel system and tools (https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/van/yr29lv/2317/engine/)Oil filter
Oil filter for Van YR29LV







Here are parts you've selected:


No
PNC#
(SUB)
OEM part number
Required
per car
Production period
Name
Applicability
Please order in advance
In stock


01
15691
15691-71010
01
08.1988 - 12.1989
GASKET, OIL FILTER
4YEC..YR2#,3#

4.91 USD (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1569171010)




(SUBS)
15691-71011
01

4.91
to 5.15 USD (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1569171011)



02
15691
15691-71011
01
12.1989 - 01.1990
GASKET, OIL FILTER
4YEC..YR2#,3#

4.91
to 5.15 USD (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1569171011)



More than 1 spare part found. Please define it more accurately before ordering.










Click on the part subgroup below to get genuine part numbers.

[Burntboot]

hmmm, pic didnt come with :(
11388

That seemed to work tho

[MyToy]

That's it!!

So it is a gasket and not an o ring.

Looks like I will have to go to Toyota and get it.

Thanks. will keep you posted

MT

[MyToy]

Hey Burnboot:

Well this gasket is nowhere to be found. Toyota cannot even give me a clue on when they can have one. My only idea is to make one. Have any thoughts on this? I check the site for this and found nothing. I will at least post a new message to the group to see if anyone has any idea how to solve this.

Again, thanks for your help on this issue

MT

[Burntboot]

At this point, it may only be available as part of a set (lower engine set maybe??), if at all.

That gasket is very simple and I would not hesitate to make a new one.
As long as you use proper gasket material (most parts stores will carry something) you should be fine.

Cheers

[MyToy]

Gotcha:

Yes, auto part stores do seem to have the material, which one is questionable. I will have to buy a bunch and make a call. Do you have any thoughts what kind of material I may be looking for?

I have only seen one and it was kind of soft and not hard like others I have used.

Thanks again

MT

[Burntboot]

This is a page from McMaster Carr for what they have available.








Water-Resistant Lightweight Fiber Gasket Material

https://www.mcmaster.com/mvd/contents/gfx/imagecache/130/13015k11p1-j05@halfx_637175442069149855.png?ver=imagenotfound





These paper-thin sheets are commonly used for light-duty gasketing. Cut with scissors or a utility knife.Paper fiber/Buna-N rubber blend sheets resist water and some types of oil.Paper fiber/SBR rubber blend sheets resist water and abrasion.
Paper Fiber/Buna-N Rubber Blend







1/64" Thick.


1/32" Thick.


1/16" Thick.




Wd.
Lg.
Max.
Pressure, psi
Max.
Temperature, °F
Color

Each

Each

Each


12"
36"
1,000
450°
Gray
9556K81 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K81)
$7.17
9556K82 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K82)
$11.48
9556K83 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K83)
$24.56


18"
36"
1,000
450°
Gray
9556K113 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K113)
10.64
9556K114 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K114)
14.79
9556K115 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K115)
28.18










Paper Fiber/SBR Rubber Blend







1/64" Thick.


1/32" Thick.


1/16" Thick.




Wd.
Lg.
Max.
Pressure, psi
Max.
Temperature, °F
Color

Each

Each

Each


12"
36"
1,000
350°
Gray
9556K84 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K84)
$5.57
9556K85 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K85)
$7.13
9556K86 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K86)
$11.74


18"
36"
1,000
350°
Gray
9556K87 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K87)
7.96
9556K88 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K88)
10.02
9556K89 (https://www.mcmaster.com/9556K89)
13.67

[Burntboot]

Just try to find something that is applicable to the temperature and is about the same thickness.

Cutting small holes can be difficult.
Paper punches can be handy but if a different size is required there are all sorts of things you can repurpose.
Something as simple as a piece of brake line can be sharpened and punched, you may have to resharpen after each use tho.
A leather punch is also a handy item as it usually has a wheel with an assortment of hole sizes

The only rule with making gaskets is cleanly cut edges.
(folds/creases in the material must be avoided too)

[timsrv]

Or per Burntboot's other suggestion, you could get a lower end gasket kit........then you'd have some extra gaskets for the next time something starts leaking.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303100664438?epid=2301659284&hash=item4692351a76:g:uSMAAOSwo99f~jTO

[MyToy]

Great Guys.

I think I will do both. Will keep you updated.

Thanks Tim for the link.

[MyToy]

Hey are you guys believers in using permatex form a gasket on these types of gaskets?

[Burntboot]

Personally, I am not a huge fan.
I think it depends as much on the gasket material, as much as anything else.
I mostly use it as glue these days, like when installing a gasket upside down, a couple of dabs/light smear will keep it in place till bolted up.
Toyo FIPG is different again, a far more useful product in my mind.

Hopefully Tim will advise, as he knows this stuff far better than me.

And I know it's a dead horse but am gonna kick it anyway.
If using RTV type products, make sure you get Oxy sensor safe.
Around these parts they still sell the stuff that isnt friendly to O2 sensors, so it pays to read the package first.
YMMV

[timsrv]

Different mechanics have differing opinions and/practices. I don't fault anybody for doing things the way they do, but personally I like FIPG. I use it in various places and it's never let me down. The only other thing I use is Aviation Form A Gasket, but that's only to help seal freeze plugs (while driving them in). I think I pretty much explain the use of these products in MY BLOG (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/blog.php?2-timsrv) and on THIS THREAD (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2041-Blew-the-rear-main-oil-seal!-Engine-Overhaul). Tim

[MyToy]

Good points for sure. I did order in the lower gasket set Tim linked me to. It comes with this stuff that I never heard of. I can get the FIPG from amazon but will have to wait till the 18th to get it. It is such a job getting that housing out I really don't want to do it for a third time. So I am leaning toward something. So I guess I will order this in so I have it for the new gasket. Attached is a pic of what the gasket set comes with.

[timsrv]

For the particular gasket you're replacing, I don't put anything there, I just assemble using a dry gasket. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and flat and you should be good. If the gasket has been folded or there's a gouge in one of the sealing surfaces, I would put a dab of FIPG just on that spot. If you want/need FIPG right away, just go to your local Toyota Dealer. The parts department also supports the shop and I would guess they always have ~ a dozen tubs of this stuff on hand at all times. If you go that route, be prepared to pay $20 or more for the tube. If I had a choice of Gasket Maker or FIPG and the FIPG cost me ~$20 plus a trip to town, I'd still choose the FIPG. Tim

[MyToy]

Thanks Tim:

Already ordered it. Good to have around and I will put on dry

MT

[MyToy]

Just wanted to report in and announce that the lower engine gasket kit had the part and my machine has been returned to service.

Thanks to all of you that contributed.


MT