Seafoam time.... but what hose to pour it in?

[pastadog]

Has anybody done this and what was the outcome? I have heard nothing but awesome reviews!

However, the only part I'm lost on is you pour 1/3 in your gas, 1/3 in your oil on top of the engine? and lastly pour 1/3 in your vacuum line??? Which line would that be on our engines? Anybody have a picture with a bright color arrow pointing at it?

Any input and help about this stuff would be much appreciated! Later Alligator

[pastadog]

Any takers? :yes:

[llamavan]

Actually, I've also been waiting for exactly that photo, with a big colored arrow, for years ...

Gwen

[pastadog]

Actually, I've also been waiting for exactly that photo, with a big colored arrow, for years ...

Gwen
Ha Ha Ha well hopefully your dreams come true and somebody helps us out......... TIM? :LOL2:

I'll keep my fingers crossed for as long as I can!

[timsrv]

I've never used Seafoam and dismissed it as being a gimmick. I'm not completely sure about that, but it does fit the bill of "miracle in a can". IMHO, if you keep your emissions equipment in good order, accumulations should be minimal. That being said, in order to introduce it into your intake and combustion areas, I'm assuming you just need to find a port with good vacuum.....like your PCV or brake line booster port, disconnect, then put a temporary hose on it and put the other end of that hose in your can of Seafoam. The vacuum should suck it out of the can and into the engine. You will most likely need to keep the RPMs up though or it's likely to load-up and stall. From what I understand you'll most likely obliterate the neighborhood with a big cloud of blue smoke :)>:. I do admit that even though I'm debating it's usefulness, I've been tempted to try it just because it sounds like fun :LOL2:. Tim

[Sam Humans]

I've done the seafoam thing and I used the brake booster vacuum line. Didn't do much for me near as I could tell. I think if the engine has been mistreated and/or the van is new to you, it certainly isn't going to hurt anything, but as Tim said, if you're taking care of the engine as you should, there's not going to be that much carbon build up in there to get rid of in the first place...

But ya, if you do it, go slow with letting it get sucked up by the hose (use a glass jar so you can see it), have a friend keep the engine at higher idle, and watch out for some stinky headache inducing smoke!

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html

Have fun!
-Sam

[wayoffline]

I saw this video on youtube the other day. Too bad you can't really tell what hose was used. You might be able to contact the person who shot the video and ask how he did it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-L_0baWUJY
I will be interested to hear if you have noticeable results.

[pastadog]

I just logged onto TVP and PM'ed the guy that shot that video with some questions and if he writes back I will share all his feedback with you all! :dance1:<-- What my banana friend is trying to is it's PARTY TIME!!:rol:

[Dogfish]

I've used it. I used the brake booster line or a large vacuum line. You can put some in a container and dip the hose in and out to keep the engine from stalling.
I followed the directions except the part where it tells you to induce a stall. I was leery of not being able to start the van again. Something about a possible vapor or liquid lock of material that doesn't burn as well as gasoline didn't seat well with me.

I read somewhere that someone had checked the list of ingredients filed for HazMat purposes and that it is mostly Naptha. It does make a lot of smoke... but hard to tell how much is from the engine. I would guess that burning Naptha makes a lot of smoke as well.

I also read that someone did a treatment and immediately did another... saw less smoke. They did another immediate treatment and saw even less. I haven't tried that. If someone does that please post your results.

I don't know what to believe from anonymous internet blurbs. People that work for or sell Seafoam are allowed to post as well.

I have been putting it in every "new" van I get. To it's credit I see results. Most vans have an immediate quicker response when I step on the gas. Maybe from cleaner injectors and fuel line. On two vans that had some visible smoke, it cleared up. It may have cleared up anyway from driving 3-4k miles or a few new tanks of gas... but it was fairly immediate.

I have not seen any bad results from using it... but I have only done it once per vehicle or once a year at most.
-Jim

[llamavan]

I wasn't planning to Seafoam all my vans, just poor Trusty who (thanks to my stupidity) ran around with an increasingly stuck-open thermostat for over two years. Can you say "carbon build-up"? :dizzy: But I'm not about to kill my van friend, and I haven't met the brake booster vacuum line either. So until I get a photo from someone I can trust with a big arrow to the appropriate hose ... :?:

Gwen

[Dogfish]

...I haven't met the brake booster vacuum line either. So until I get a photo from someone I can trust with a big arrow to the appropriate hose ... :?:

Gwen

I'll try to get a pic either today or tomorrow, but would I fall in the trusted or untrusted category..?

On any vehicle I have looked for the most easily accessible, largest vacuum line I could find... if there is suction and it is going into the manifold then you are good. I don't think you want to send it anywhere else.

I think that the step that I skip, feeding it in until the engine stalls out and then letting it sit like that is the one that is supposed to do the most for the carbon build up condition. I never did it... can't recommend it. You should do your own research on that... there is a lot of negative posting on the net about flooding out your vehicle this way. I know what a pain just getting a van started with "hot soak' can be.
-Jim

PS - I was thinking that the last few times on the van I used the PCV vacuum line... easy access and big. You can control the flow by dipping the line in the Seafoam... backing it out if it starts to stall. Also last time or two I shut the engine off and did let it sit for 5 mins or so... but I never stalled it.
This site (http://www.yotatech.com/f123/seafoam-verdict-69490/) seems to confirm PCV line use... but I will look at it today or tomorrow to be sure.
-Jim

[timsrv]

Another possible good reason for using the pcv hose is that vacuum port has the most potential of getting plugged up with deposits. Maybe kill 2 birds with one stone? or maybe send big chunks of crud into your cylinders??? I'm still undecided on it's effectiveness & I think the smoke is produced by burning the seafoam (not the deposits). Tim

PS: I didn't have time for big red arrows, but that steel line going right above the self made access hole on my firewall is the brake booster line. If you follow that you'll see it terminates near your intake (on the other side of the engine) and there's a rubber hose that connects it with a port on the intake manifold. I assume you already know which one is the PCV hose :)>:.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/05IMG_8848.jpg

[pastadog]

Ha Ha Ha Why am I so confused and scared to try this?!?!

However, as Gwen said I would really like to see a pic with a big dummy arrow pointing to exactly where this process will take place...

:dance1:

[llamavan]

I am confident I can find the brake booster line from there, Tim. Thanks! I know where the PCV line is, but for exactly the reasons you state, I don't want to use that one. My plan (ha ha ... I should never plan ... ) is to Seafoam and then do the tune-up, so the now-surely-cruddy PCV valve will get replaced shortly after the treatment.

Gwen

[skyflyer9]

I did the Seafoam trick on my '84 a few years ago...

I used the brake booster vacuum line, and sucked in the requisite amount of Seafoam while blipping the gas pedal from time to time so the van didn't stall.

HOLY CLOUD OF SMOKE, BATMAN!

I did this at night in a Burger King parking lot after hours as I didn't want my neighbors calling the fire department.

As for results?

I suppose the van did run a touch smoother after that. I also put some in my gas tank. There was no EUREKA moment where I thought, "Seafoam, where have been all my life?"

But the two minutes of SERIOUS white smoke out of the exhaust made the whole thing worth it!

[Dogfish]

Keep in mind, whatever vacuum line that you pick, you are not sending it through the PCV valve or through the brake booster or through any other component.

Pick a line that leads to the manifold and has suction... you're all set. I did the brake booster and it was IMO not as easy as the PCV line. I guess if one has an issue with any dirt in that line, it should be cleaned or replaced or a new hose could be used just for the Seafoam.

They use Seafoam in small engines... even chainsaws. They probably add it directly into the carburetor... we can't, so a line to the manifold will have to do.

You still may need a second person just to give it a little more gas, but with an easily accessible line like the one from the PCV to the manifold you can put the Seafoam in a container (I used a paper cup) and hold the hose to the liquid... if the engine starts to stall just back the hose out.

I don't like the instructions you'll find that say to pour it in a line until it stalls... but I've been over that.
-Jim

[pastadog]

Ha Ha Ha well that all seems good and fun but I have not clue where the PCV hose is and when I do locate it do I just disconnect and start sucking up the seafoam or do I need to plug up where the hose was unplugged? :cnfsd:

[llamavan]

It's dark and I have to go to work soon (and sort all those fine Christmas cards y'all love to receive), but I'll get you a photo tomorrow now that I know which one is the brake booster hose (I already knew the PCV hose, but there was a time "before knowing" and I know what a PITA it is to be seemingly the "only one in the world" who doesn't know something "obvious").

In fact, I'll do TWO photos, one of a 3Y and one of a 4Y. :yes: Do ya gots A/C?

Gwen

[pastadog]

It's dark and I have to go to work soon (and sort all those fine Christmas cards y'all love to receive), but I'll get you a photo tomorrow now that I know which one is the brake booster hose (I already knew the PCV hose, but there was a time "before knowing" and I know what a PITA it is to be seemingly the "only one in the world" who doesn't know something "obvious").

In fact, I'll do TWO photos, one of a 3Y and one of a 4Y. :yes: Do ya gots A/C?

Gwen
Oh that would be awesome Gwen!!

I do have a/c but it's not working....... :cnfsd:

[llamavan]

I asked about A/C because that means extra vacuum lines (and extra stuff in general).

Below: 3Y van without A/C (yes, I know, Trusty is filthy :redface:). Hoses are OEM to the best of my knowledge.

7762brake_booster_PCV_hoses_3YEC.jpg


Below: 4Y van with A/C hoses and VSVs still (most of the A/C parts have actually been removed). All hoses have been replaced with bulk hose.

7763brake_booster_PCV_hoses_4YEC.jpg


The critical things you are looking for are identical on both vans/engines; it's the periphery that can confuse (and that's why I showed both 3Y and 4Y).

Gwen

[pastadog]

Wow, thank you so much Gwen! So what side do I disconnect to suck the seafoam in? And last and hopefully least do you recommend the PCV hose or the brake booster? Thanks again as always!

Merry Christmas to all!

[pastadog]

Oh and one other...... The place where I disconnect the hose I end up using, should I cap it off u ntil done when the hose? Make since?

[llamavan]

I'm planning to use the brake booster hose. Since the point is to get the Seafoam into the cylinders via the intake manifold (AND to have vacuum to do it with), I'll disconnect the end of the hose furthest from the intake manifold; in the case of the brake booster, that means disconnecting the end that's on the metal line against the firewall. Shouldn't need to plug the open end of the metal line 'cuz the parking brake will be set and I wouldn't anticipate needing to use the brakes during this part of the procedure. :mrgreen:

Gwen

[timsrv]

Sorry for the late reply. I've been out of state for Christmas and just returned. The last post I made while my wife was standing in the hall saying "come on Tim, we'll miss our flight" :LOL2:. Well, needless to say, airport security was a breeze and we sat for over 2 hrs in the airport waiting to board our delayed flight.

Anyhow I just came here to make some nice pics with arrows, but I see Gwen beat me to it. Thanks Gwen for the awesome pics. Tim

[pastadog]

I really want to try this but kind of nervous I'm going to do more harm then good :cnfsd:

[timsrv]

It's not likely, but conceivable that if too much were introduced it could hydro-lock the engine. Of course that would take a high concentration of fluid in a cylinder and it's not likely it could flow that fast through a vacuum hose anyhow. IMO even though it's a small risk, risk vs payoff would be minimal at best. Now if you had an old flat head or a carbureted engine prone to excessive carbon build ups, and you were having a problem associated with said build-ups, AND assuming their product actually does what they say it does, then I'd say the risk vs payoff was reasonable.

Considering these are modern, clean burning, fuel injected engines, not likely to have excessive deposits (except maybe in the PCV intake chamber), I don't think you would benefit much (if any) from using this product (even if it does work).

The best advice I have is to keep your emissions equipment in good working order and enjoy the benefits of your fuel injection system. Introducing a foreign substance that the EFI system is not designed for is only asking for trouble (IMHO). Tim

[pastadog]

Well put and now probably going to put the bottle down and walk away...:dance1:Any other additives you do suggest? Such as fuel treatments, oil treatments, etc etc? Thanks Tim

[timsrv]

Keep in mind this is a hotly debated subject and there are going to be many different views. Frankly I don't know who to believe, so I've formed my own opinions.

My general attitude on additives is they are gimmicky and probably don't help.......in some cases they may even hurt. Keep in mind that oil and gasoline manufacturers can put anything they want into their products........so if adding this or that during manufacturing would make their product better, why wouldn't they add? Since I don't know who or what to believe I just spend a little more money on what I consider to be quality products (oil, antifreeze, gear oil, etc) and let these products do their jobs as the manufacturers intended. Since I don't have a chemical engineering degree, I'm under the impression that if I blindly start adding this or that I might actually be spending my time and money to make things worse.........so why chance it?

I'm not saying none of them work, I'm just saying I'm not qualified to know which ones they are. There is simply too much hype and BS to sort through. There is a huge market for this stuff. All these guys have to do is come up with some junk science and a good marketing scheme and people will buy it. I hear people raving about all sorts of products, but I'm skeptical of all of them because it's human nature to claim stuff works rather than admit you got duped :doh:.

The only additives I use are fuel preservatives (for long term storage) and Water Wetter or Purple Ice for improved surface contact & heat dissipation (goes in the coolant). Back when I had high compression hot-rods I also used octane booster (for when I couldn't get Av-gas). I don't have anything that requires high octane gasoline anymore, so I no longer buy or use it. On occasion I've also used Heat (a fuel additive) in instances when I thought I might have water in my gas. It's basically just alcohol that acts as a mixing agent to help the fuel absorb the water in the tank (it helps you get rid of it without dropping the tank). Then there's the stop-leak products (that actually do work), but they only offer a temporary solution and over time they often create bigger problems than the ones they solve. Tim

[pastadog]

So I looked through some of the archives on TVP about the seafoam and additives topics and came up with people saying they just added the seafoam to their fuel tank.... Is that OK to just pour the whole bottle into the tank instead of splitting it up 1/3 in vac hose 1/3 oil and 1/3 gas tank???/

[timsrv]

Yeah, I don't see how it could hurt anything.

[pastadog]

Sweet! I'm going on a trip tomorrow morning and figure what a perfect time to try it! Should I pour it in then fill up or fill up the pour in OR pour it in with my tank on half like it is right now and run it around tonight get rid of the smoke and fill up in the morn?

[pastadog]

Bought some!! Going to put half into my tank in the morning when I fill up and maybe a little in my oil..... Excited but nervous at the same time!

[Sam Humans]

If you put it in your oil, you should change it pretty quick. It's not something you want to run with in your crankcase long term, as if it does what it's supposed to do, you're going to muck up your oil real good. I think I was told, by some folks on a Ford forum a few years ago when I tried it for the first time on my '69 F100, to keep it under 500 miles or so before changing it.
-Sam

[pastadog]

Update!!!!! So, before I left for Oxnard,CA(50 miles or so) I poured 1/2-3/4 in the fuel tank and 1/4 into the oil via dip stick line and then filled up. Absolutely no smoke! Not even for a second!! :( whats up with that..... Very sad! Ha ha ha

Any suggestions why? Maybe only smokes when ran through vacuum line? Maybe nothing to burn? So far kind of disappointed....

Thanks,
Ronnie

[Dogfish]

Yes... only what is added through the intake manifold will smoke.
Hopefully, what you add to your oil will never burn and what you add to a tank of gas is too dilute to smoke much if at all.
-Jim

[pastadog]

Oh ok! That's kind of a bummer.... I just didn't want to risk screwing something up. Oh eel, at least it got through two of the three.

How do you guys fill about full engine flushes? Like the kind they hook a machine up to that sucks all the roflroflroflrofl and fluid out and then refill? Did it once on my Toyota pickup but just to my tranny....

Thanks guys

[timsrv]

I wouldn't pay those guys to do anything. Just change your oil at regular intervals and you'll be fine. Tim

[NEC]

I wouldn't pay those guys to do anything. Just change your oil at regular intervals and you'll be fine. Tim


I agree about our modern fuel injected engines not needing exotic additives and flushes. For new cars, Toyota recently sent out a memo stating that these additives/flushes were not necessary and in some cases would void a warranty. Most new car dealers still recommend the a/t flush/additive, oil flush/additive, coolant additive/flushes, brake flush, ps flush/additive at 30k, 60k, 90k intervals. In my opinion and the opinion of the OEM this is not necessary and in most cases causes more harm than good.

As far as aftermarket fuel/oil/coolant additives are concerned: I also have no chemical engineering degree but I have spent time working in machine shops. Many oil additives which claim to make oil slipperier/improve mpg actually do. The manufacturers fail to mention that it alters the PH of the oil, causing an acidic situation which eats away at the main bearings. I have seen this first hand many times. In my opinion it is best to use the fluids/service intervals that the OEM recommends and leave it at that.

I will say that synthetic oils are "better" in that they work better under extreme heat and take longer to break down. Synthetic oil will not make your engine run any better or worse. Running synthetic oil does not mean you can go 10k before changing your oil. Synthetic oil gets dirty just as quick as normal oil and doesn't really offer much when you consider the cost.

I do recommend the transmission flush as it runs 12-14 qts of clean fluid through the transmission/cooler rather than just drain/fill which only really gets half the dirty fluid out. If you go to a shop to get the transmission flush ask them not to use the chemical additives as they will weaken the rubber seals in your transmission.

[pastadog]

Oooooo ok. So should I not switch out to synthetic on my next oil change? You would also opt out of doing a full engine flush and refill? I figured it would do my little van some good...

I definitely am going to do a tranny flush and refill adding some lucas transmission fix though to hopefully get rid of the little kick i've got going on!

[pastadog]

OH and would draining the rear end and refilling with synthetic be good or just use regular old gear oil? I would rather spend a little more money for a better product that will keep my van on the road longer :)

[NEC]

Synthetic wont hurt your engine. It's your money you are spending and if you have a lot of it you should use synthetic oil. I have synthetic in my engine now because it was on sale when I bought it. I'm just saying not to believe all those who say they can run synthetic and skip every other oil change interval. For the rear end all the OEM requires is GL5 90w gear oil. Most synthetics meet/surpass this requirement and again, it's your money.

For clarification: In simple terms: synthetics oils are not required for our vans but will not hurt them either. Using synthetics does not mean you can skip regular service intervals for engine or drivetrain.

Beware of what types of additives you put into your oil/fuel/atf/coolant/diff as they can be harmful and often offer little if any benefit.

[timsrv]

Also, if your engine already has oil leaks, it will leak synthetic faster than regular oil. I run Amsoil synthetic blend in my van engine. I run Amsoil pure synthetics in my tranny and Royal Purple synthetic gear oil in my differentials. Tim

[Dogfish]

It looks like there are three or four discussions going on here... the original Seafoam where-to thread, the new flushing machines and synthetic oil and other additives.

I have been leery of the flushings. I was told the coolant system one filters the coolant and puts it back. Not really... it filters the coolant of the people ahead of you and adds that to your system as it flushes out your coolant. It just rubs me the wrong way... too many variables... including the diligence of the operator.

I also understand that the transmission and engine oil flushes pump through in reverse. I'm leery of anything going the wrong direction against seals, etc that were designed for the fluid (including the dirt) to flow in one direction.

This quote is from a good article on flushing, from 2006 although I doubt the facts have changed much:


"...who actually recommends that it be done? I checked with GM, Ford, Chrysler, Nissan, Honda and several other new car manufacturers and not one recommended an engine or transmission flush as routine maintenance. In fact, they specifically don't recommend it at all!! The new car dealerships that do sell them use the implication that since they are the dealer that it must be the factory that recommends it. And if they do say the factory recommends it, they are flat out lying to you."

Read more at Suite101: Do You Need To Flush Your Transmission? (http://www.suite101.com/content/do-you-need-to-flush-your-transmission-a786#ixzz19snORM4d) http://www.suite101.com/content/do-you-need-to-flush-your-transmission-a786#ixzz19snORM4d

As with anything... always best to do your own research.
-Jim

[jfenwick]

I'm getting ready to do the same thing, but I picked up both the normal seafoam and the spray can.
No one in here really brought up the spray can. So here is what I'm wondering.
Most of the time, people say they take the boot off the throttle body and go in through that opening.
10522
What I'm worried about is the throttle body sensor. Isn't that right next to the throttle body opening? Would I damage that if I sprayed seafoam in there? Or is it just the MAF sensor that I'd want to avoid on most cars, which the van doesn't even have?
10523

[Burntboot]

jf - Seafoam comes in 3 varieties (that I have seen)
The can of liquid, the penetrating spray and the upper engine lube (used for fogging 2 strokes, etc)
Their penetrant is one of the best on the market.
The liquid is what's used for cleaning the crankcase.

I have seen many people who insist on feeding it thru a vacuum source, but I don't go there.
Also seen THAT done several times with just plain water.
2/3 worked awesome but the 3rd suffered detonation problems and was rebuilt at great expense.
Might be why I shy away from vacuum infusion.
I can't afford experiments.

While I have no doubt the spray would work inside the engine, I wouldn't use it there.
I'd be worried that the additives might/could cause some issues with seals, gaskets and Cat.
The penetrant smells different from the liquid.

I just chuck it in the crankcase and it will go anyplace oil goes.
I also put it in the tank (as per instruction on can) so that it goes everywhere the fuel goes.
It has never failed me and never caused an issue.
YMMV

[jfenwick]

That totally worked!
Seafoam in crank case and gas + oil change with 20W-50 oil + Lucas oil thickener.
I'll probably thin out the viscous oil now that I passed though.
Now I'll have more time to take the engine apart and clean properly and change the seals to see if I can stop it from burning oil, and probably change the cat once it's fixed.

[Burntboot]

Awesome you got your pass.
Before jumping in too deep, try a second flush with the Foam, install a fresh filter and 10w30
(Theres a thread on oil viscosity thats worth a read.)

Then just drive it and keep an eye on things.
Monitor what leaks, how long it stays clean, does it burn or does it leak, how fast it disappears?
This will give you a better baseline for how to proceed with future repairs.

[jfenwick]

I haven't been able to find a thread specifically about viscosity, got a link?
I'll probably seafoam it one more time and change the oil but I've heard some people say they always put 20w50 in old cars so I was considering just keeping that viscosity level in there.

[timsrv]

We have had this discussion a few times. I did a quick search and found this one: https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1473-Oil-Light-Problem. Tim

And here's a quote from another thread:


Personally I think 20w50 is too thick for the van. I might make an exception in a warm or hot climate IF the engine was worn and couldn't maintain enough pressure otherwise. If you have any doubts about oil pressure, rig up an oil pressure gauge and take the guess work out of it.

Having too thick of oil can actually starve your engine for oil. If this oil is too thick you may not get enough volume through to the bearings and other small passages. Another potential problem is the pressure relief valve on the oil pump. If pressure gets too high, the relief opens and spills the excess oil back into the pan (instead the pump pushing it to the places it's needed). Tim