The hose of death thread

[timsrv]

My "hose of death" or "hose from hell" wasn't leaking yet, but I decided to go ahead and replace it while I had the intake and exhaust manifold off my van. Since I had everything on the left side of the engine removed, I figured I could do the job without cutting an access hole, but even then it was a bit hard to access. It looked manageable if I were to take the valve cover off, but I decided to bite the bullet and just cut the hole already. I mapped it out to fit the bend in my brake vacuum line that hugs the firewall there (I didn't want to move it nor did I want to damage it). The hole came out nice and it gave me plenty of access. I actually ordered the replacement hose from Toyota (Toyota Part # 15261-73030) but compared to Gates #28408 5/16" ID heater hose, it looked wimpy :?: . I decided to use the Gates hose. Surprisingly enough, the old hose wasn't leaking and actually was in pretty good shape. Taking into consideration it was 20 years old, I decided replacement was best. Here are some pics of the project.

1st step is getting the carpet and heater duct out of the way.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/01IMG_8842.jpg


Next I laid out hole location and marked it with a sharpie. Ideally, I would have liked the hole to be another couple inches higher and to the left, but there's a steel vacuum line for the brake booster that is mounted there. Rather than mess with that, I compromised and decided here was the best.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/02IMG_8843.jpg


Here is a Matco Air Saw. This thing is like a saws-all, but offers much better control for projects like this.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/03IMG_8844.jpg


Here is the view through my newly cut access hole.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/04IMG_8847.jpg


Here is how it looks from the engine side (note the steel vacuum line with the 90 deg bend).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/05IMG_8848.jpg


Ample access for changing hose has now been granted. The upper end was a little more challenging, but still not bad. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to tighten the upper clamp. It was very manageable.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/06IMG_8963.jpg


I used some .050 painted aluminum plate I had laying around and some 3/16" aluminum pop rivets to make provisions for re-installing the piece I cut.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/07IMG_8851.jpg


I used some double back tape to stick the piece of insulation back on.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/08IMG_8850.jpg


I used some 1/2" #6 self tapping sheet metal screws to secure the new access panel into place.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/09IMG_8966.jpg


Okay, so you think that's the end of the tough little hoses to change? well guess what? There's another hose of death :doh:

The next hardest hose to conquer is another 8mm (5/16") hose that goes from the 19mm (3/4") steel heater hose return pipe up to an 8mm (5/16") pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. Although this one can also be a pain, it is not nearly as tough as the one I cut the access hole for. It can be done from underneath without too much trouble (at least on a 2wd, not sure about the 4wd). Here are some pics of it's location for your viewing pleasure :)>: . Tim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8784.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8884.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8780.jpg


Fully assembled view from under van:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8905.jpg


Gates hose is available by the foot at most auto parts stores. My local Napa usually carries it, but was out, so I went to Carquest and got some there.

[Valdanilov]

Great thread! It sure helped me out...

[timsrv]

I did another one of these last weekend. Pics are pretty self explanatory. Enjoy :)>:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0388.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0390.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0392.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0394.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0403.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0395.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0397.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0401.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_0387.jpg

[Qasual]

Ah the love hate issue on cutting the walls ...


I think I'll try to convince my woman to use her tiny hands to help me out, har har har. :LOL2:

[timsrv]

It can be done without cutting. When the valve cover is off it opens it up enough, but it's hard to see and easier to make a mistake. With the access hole it can be done easily and the metal pipe/nipple can be inspected. I consider the cut wall a non-issue as it's covered with a heat duct and carpet (no one will ever see it except maybe a mechanic). Tim

[Qasual]

Yeah I would probably probably fab out a nice latch and hinge so no screws necessary.


Is the valve cover just a rubber gasket, if so sometimes I wouldn't mind taking the cover off to get at a hoke easier. (As long as you over it from debris :lol:)

[timsrv]

The valve cover gasket is the rubber type that sits in a notch. As far as valve covers go, on the van it's somewhat of a PITA to remove (other junk in the way) but manageable. Changing the VC gasket is actually one of the things I'm doing on this van, but even so I still would rather have the access hole there. Hinge and latch would be nice I guess, but since that hose will last about 20 years I find the time and effort for that hard to justify. It doesn't take very long to remove 4 screws. Tim

[Qasual]

Very true, have you ever thought of reinforcing the area you have cut before ?

[timsrv]

I briefly considered it but due to design I couldn't see how a hole here (of this size) could have much effect on structural integrity.

[EZHIKER]

I recently replaced a valve cover gasket on one of my rigs. It definitely took longer than expected. If you go that route plan on replacing the (3) valve cover grommets and possibly the PCV grommet as well. I found them all to be brittle, sections broken off, etc.

[Qasual]

Very true ...

Looks solid and it won't make any more noise.

[Cirrus]

I got a big surprise yesterday when I pulled away from my house and noticed a big oil stain on the ground (bigger than usual I guess). So I parked in the garage this morning so I could see if it was me. Another 2-5 oz's of oil leaked out on my cardboard oil catcher. As best as I can tell right now it is coming from a weep hole at the front of the housing. I went through my chiltons manual but its worthless. Any thoughts? Also, I have a slow leak at the back of the transmission pan. I changed the pan gasket but it continues.... Is there a seal just above the rear of the tranny pan? Thanks for any input. Cirrus
In the photo its the small hole on the only clean area.
847

[timsrv]

It could be coming from your rear main engine seal or from the transmission input shaft seal. If it's red and thin, then it's the transmission. If it's thicker and brown/dark brown, then it's probably the rear main engine seal. If you can't tell, take out your dipsticks and put a drop of oil on the cardboard next to the drip that's there. The one that matches the best will be the culprit. Either way, the transmission or engine has to come out in order to repair. The other option is to carry around extra oil/transmission fluid and top off regularly :dizzy:. Tim

[Cirrus]

Thanks for the reply Tim. Spent some time looking when I got to work. It's engine oil, coming from up high, runs down the left side of the bell housing where the tranny meets the back of the engine. Kinda through me for a loop cause all my fluid levels are good and this is new leak. oil spot on the ground is 1 foot by 4. Crankcase has gas smell but oil may need a change. I am trying to get it into the shop to have them look at it. Hoping I didn't buy a basket case!
one last thing, it seems to leak right after I shut the engine down for maybe 5 minutes

[Cirrus]

I have another update...... I think it's coolant. Because it was golden in color I automatically thought it was oil. Radiator light came on so I smelled the drip and it smells like coolant. I thought it was supposed to be red. Anyway, it's coming from the top rear, maybe head gasket? Are there any coolant hoses back there? I can't see any. Thanks!

[Cirrus]

Ok I think I have it located..... Small pipe (1/4- 3/8) coming from above left side and crossing the back. Where it goes through a bushing looks like its worn through and leaking. Hard to see in the pic ( in between the 2 bolts). I imagine its a bear to get to?
Edit: Brake Line?

849

[timsrv]

It's a little hard to get orientation from that picture, but it sounds like/looks like the bypass hose AKA "the hose of death". Here's a picture of the back of an engine.........the hose of death is the one coming from the plate on the back of the head.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/IMG_2277_zps1f55cfbb.jpg

[Cirrus]

Hi Tim, first, thanks for all you do in answering questions, running the site, etc! It's actually the hose just below the hod, the small one, its leaking at the rubber bushing that it runs through. What is it? Van's in the shop right now, the owner didn't get all the info I gave at the check in and did not look specifically at this hose so he was going to look tonight.what he did was do a general evaluation and here's what he recommends I take care of in the future.Seal just above the back of the transmission pan.transfer case sealredo front wheel bearingsreplace motor mountshe is suspicious of the head gasket because he see's some signs of burnt radiator fluid there, and that's the one I am worried about. All the rest seem like they shouldn't be that big of a deal?Thanks again,
Cirrus
Another observation, the fluid smells like old tire air

[timsrv]

If you're talking about the steel line that runs under that plate, that's the fuel return line coming out of the fuel pressure regulator. If that's leaking then it would be gas (not antifreeze). IMO that's not too likely (as it's steel and it's tough). What's more likely is the hose above it (the hose of death) dripping coolant down onto it, making it appear to be leaking. Tim

[Cirrus]

Ok Tim, thanks, I will call the shop this morning and have then check it.
Cirrus

getting ready to do it myself. More pics to follow.

854

[Cirrus]

Ok I did it! Let say first that I am a mediocre wrencher so if I can do it, anybody can.
Things I learned while doing this is to really pay attention to the left side cut. That brake line is close and I just eye balled it from Tim's pics and it was real close to my cut! Also, after you make the cut, tape the edges with heavy tape, I sliced my finger wide open pulling the hose off! I used 10 mil electrical tape after that and was fine. The failure point on my HOD was just above the lower nipple, the hose expanded over time and began rubbing on the lip of the valve cover, but the failure looks like it began from the inside, all the rubber was crumbling on the inside wall. I used a grinder with a metal blade. It did well but the only draw back was that it turned the sound deadening material to liquid tar so remove that first.

ready for surgery

855



857

[Cirrus]

Opened up for bypass.
867

Hose starts to crumble as I try to remove it (sorry they are sideways... sometimes this site does that to my pics)
(http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=868&d=1362110453)
http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=868&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362109444 (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=868&d=1362110453)

Hose removed, tape around hole

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=869&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362110141 (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=869&d=1362110471)

Hose replaced (Gates 5/16 like Tim used)


http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=870&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362110053 (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=870&d=1362110493)

My gnarly patch job


http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=872&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362110141 (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=872&d=1362110506)

All done and ready to be put back together! (took 4hrs, would be a lot less if done by someone who knows what they are doing!)


http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=871&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1362110141 (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=871&d=1362110506)

[Cirrus]

I just want to say thanks again to Tim..... I would not have tried this if he had not linked his post with detailed instructions for me. This site is better than taking it to a mechanic!:clap:


:dance2:




Up next.....
Repack the front wheel bearings and refurb/replace the front rotors.

[ninz30]

I just replaced the hose of death... Can anyone explain to me what part of the cooling system the HofD is responsible for? I noted its path of travel obviously starts in the rear of the engine block and makes its way through a metal line which then converges into a bypass hose that travels through the TB, then towards the underneath of the upper intake manifold, through a sensor, then it drops into a larger hose which travels near the radiator.

Anyway most of the rubber hoses in this circuit had gunk in them.... I looked at the manual and it is not under cooling. I will do a coolant flush and I would like to know if this will clean it up, or if I should do something further. Thanks

[timsrv]

As you stated the hose of death taps coolant off the bypass plate on the back of the head. It then goes to the throttle body via a metal tube & another rubber hose at the throttle body. It's purpose at the throttle body is to warm it & prevent icing during freezing conditions. Next it passes to the air valve (mounted to the underside of the top half of the intake manifold). The air valve's function is to increase idle speed when the engine is cold. It uses coolant temp to activate/deactivate. Next it's routed to the heater hose return line (part of the metal tube that travels the length of the block on the driver's side). There is an 8mm nipple welded to that tube near the back of the engine & this is where it ends up.

These little tubes can get crusty inside. Some get so bad they become completely blocked. The last engine I reworked was so bad I couldn't re-use the throttle body (nipples were like Swiss cheese). I was able to re-use the air valve, but I had to clean it using drill bits & compressed air. If you live in a place that's warm year round you don't need this stuff. You could bypass it or simply plug it off at each end. Tim

[ninz30]

Thanks Tim... Where I live freezing weather is no concern.

[craftech]

This is the second time I have replaced the "hose of death" since I bought my 1984 Toyota Van new.
I was going to cut an access hole as described above until I remembered that I had placed the two clamps in a position so that I could reach
them from underneath the vehicle with a long 1/4 inch extension. They came right off.

The hose was hardened, so it broke apart pretty easily thus being pretty easy to remove. I had removed the EGR valve in order to get better access
from the driver's side.

I thought about getting the Gates hose that Tim mentioned above, but instead decided to get Silicone Heater Hose which has
a temperature range of -65 F to 350 F. I bought VMS 5/16 inch silicone heater hose. Part Number VMSHSE1P-031-BLK
Nice and pliable and easy to clamp.
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/1-Ply-Silicone-Hose/Verocious-Silicone-Heater-Hose-1-Ply-Sold-by-the-Foot

I attached the hose with the clamp on it from the driver's side first, rotated the clamp so I could reach it from underneath. Then I
tightened it on that side with the 1/4 inch extension and socket from underneath. I then went over to the passenger side and bent the hose
with the clamp on it so that I could slip it over the passenger side nipple behind the valve cover and then rotated the clamp so that I could tighten it from underneath and it was done.

John

[Ian R.]

Fully assembled view from under van:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8905.jpg


Gates hose is available by the foot at most auto parts stores. My local Napa usually carries it, but was out, so I went to Carquest and got some there.



Hello All,

This morning as I was parking my van at work I could smell evaporating coolant. I looked under the van and it was spraying coolant all over the parking lot.:(:.


A first I thought the head gasket blew, but on closer inspection it looked like it was spraying out of the side of a hose. (Please see the number marked 1 on image. Hope you don't mind me using that image). I think the metal pipe next to it melted through the coolant hose.

2619

What size hose should I use to replace it? Also I notice that clamps are used, should I do this as well?


Also, while under there I notice the bolt that attaches to the intake manifold missing (2).

[Ian R.]

Well this is not specifically the hose of death, but related i guess.

It was as I suspected. The hose was melted by the EGR metal tube. Melted right through it. I was able to pick up some 5/8 heater hose rated for +350' F / 60 PSI and two new clamps at NAPA. Removed and installed all during lunch hour.:dance2:

Hopefully that solves the problem.

[timsrv]

That should solve it. These hoses get fragile when they get old. If the EGR is getting hotter than it should, that's a sign of a failing cat converter or the timing being off. It could also be a problem with your electronic advance............or could simply be a poorly routed hose. Just thought I'd throw some other possibilities out there as food for thought. Tim

[Ian R.]

Thanks Tim!

-I have got to hand it to you. You are always one step ahead of things. Getting the timing checked is on the list. My initial thought was, it was to close to the EGR. But as I replacing the hose, I started thinking. Why? Is the EGR suppose to be running that hot?

Thank you again for your help and TV wisdom!

-Ian

[gushaman]

Must just be that time of year lol, im about to cut an access panel myself. I am going to lay some sheets of leather i have all around the hump, and use my air cutoff tool to cut the size hole i need. I was looking at nice hole saws but 80 bucks for the 8 inch is just not happening.

[tkhpitbull]

Okay, so you think that's the end of the tough little hoses to change? well guess what? There's another hose of death :doh:


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8784.jpg




http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/whatever/IMG_8780.jpg


After a blown radiator hose on my 86 2wd auto Van, I decided to change all the hoses.
The pic of the underside of the top half of the intake manifold where a coolant hose connects to the metal line. The toyota parts diagram shows another hose coming off the other end of that metal line (can not see it in your pic). See 16268A below.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/hose20breakdown_zpsmdrc6aky.jpg

I believe it attaches to the auxiliary air valve but I'm not sure. Shouldn't this hose be replaced as well? You didn't mention that hose at all. Toyota gives part number 99556-10110 for both hoses that go to that metal line (part number given for reference). They said the Van requires both. The parts guy asked the tech but he said only that he thinks the second line is under the manifold but couldn't be sure exactly. Did they tell me wrong, is the diagram they gave me wrong, or is there another hose under the intake manifold that you didn't show? If so how do I replace that one?
Please help. Thanks

[timsrv]

Yes, that would suck to replace that hose. I wouldn't replace it though unless it was leaking or the intake needed to be removed for another reason. I've been aware of this one and have replaced it on every van I've had the pleasure of splitting the manifold on. I haven't mentioned it before because strangely it seems to hold up very well. I've never had this one blow (knock on wood). Perhaps it's due to the shielding offered by the intake manifold? Regardless, unless you remove the upper manifold, there is no easy way to replace this hose.

Based on location I would consider this to be the toughest hose of all (although the other one gets all the fame). Until I have one break I'm not going to worry too much about it. Perhaps when the vans get 40 years old this will become an issue, but it's hard to imagine a van going that long without needing to pull the intake for something else. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_3259_zpst6qweov0.jpg

[tkhpitbull]

Thanks for the info, and really thanks for the super fast response. I will skip that one for now and not worry about it. If I do get a leak in the next 20 years that will be the place for me to look as I've replaced every other hose. All the other hoses were original 30 year old equipment.

[Christian]

I bought my 87 van, it was running fine - i took it to a guy who has worked on toyota vans previously - he looked it over and was very impressed with the state of things, however the coolant was like mud - brown sludge style. so he suggested draining it and starting a process of flushing it with distilled water of the period of a few months.

its winter and cold here now, so I'm waiting on that process - drained the system, and refilled it with coolant - then the leak began. i took it back to him, he replaced the lower radiator hose - but did not notice a leak. once i started driving it again the leak began again - i suppose this suggests the leak is coming from the "hot side" as i don't believe he drove it very far after replacing the hose.. meanwhile I've just been keeping it topped off everytime i drive it.

I'm taking it back to him in the next couple of days to potentially have the leak pinpointed and repaired - but while he is doing that, he suggested changing some other things - which i support. though he mentions in his email after listing prices for parts - that after he did the same kind of thing to a previous van, it wouldn't start. why is that? is there a way to avoid this possibility?

here is his email,

"Let me list the parts and you can see if this is more than what's acceptable...
after-market Radiator (about $185)
two radiator bottom clamps ($30)
Water-pump and gasket (about $30)
upper radiator hose (about $35)
radiator cleaner (about $7)
miscellaneous other hoses and distilled water (about $50)

That's around $350, with a possibility of maybe going to $400. You can come over and help with all the work. Would make progress faster.

P.S. After I completed the cooling system work on the blue van and put everything back together, it would not start, no matter what i tried. Then i had to take the fuel-intake apart and put new injectors in (cost over 700 when it was all done). So i'm hesitant to even start on this, if i run into problems, you're going to be stuck with the bills."


let me know what you think, and thank you so much for any advice you may have to give - and also the time for reading this!


EDIT: I assume the leak is the hose of death.. Also it just dawned on me that the brown sludge is probably result of "stop leak" fluid - this is just an assumption of mine as the PO did not alert me to the use of anything like that

[timsrv]

Your cooling system is contaminated. This is completely avoidable and is most likely the result of neglect and/or ignorance of a PO. Even if it's just a stop leak product, this is still considered contamination (although not as bad as other types).

Most glycol based antifreezes (recommended), if mixed properly will last many years and beyond 50k miles. Automotive antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors and additives to keep the the moving parts lubricated. There are however many different types of antifreeze and most should never be mixed. When different types are mixed it can cause these additives to drop out of suspension and can even make the antifreeze corrosive (like acid) to your engine. Running straight water or improper ratios can cause the same thing. Even if the correct antifreeze is left in the engine too long it can eventually become like an acid and damage your engine. For those who want to run the same antifreeze as long as possible, they should test the PH level at least once a year and replace based on test results. FYI, if rust is part of the contamination, the rust is actually microscopic particles that were once metal from your engine.

Not sure what has caused your problem, but if it's rust in there, it's never good. There are things you can do to improve the situation (like flushing), but depending on how bad it is, the only way to get it completely clean might be to disassemble and manually clean like I did here in this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2041-Blew-the-rear-main-oil-seal!-Engine-Overhaul

FYI, I thoroughly flushed that engine for over an hr and even used a flushing product BEFORE disassembling (turned my entire driveway rusty) and I still found this when I popped out the freeze plug:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Engine/86%20LE%20rebuild/IMG_3058_zpse429c24a.jpg

In my experience, I've had the rusty contamination on other engines. Although I would flush and replace antifreeze periodically. My new antifreeze would always get brown again each time, but at least it helped keep it from getting worse. Good luck, I hope you're able to get it cleaned up. Tim

[coronan]

Do I have these coolant and air flow directions right?

4674

[timsrv]

Looks correct to me. :thmbup:

[coronan]

So hot coolant (which may contain bubbles / steam) from the Head / HOD has to flow downhill and then into the block to get reheated, AND NOT GIVEN A CHANCE TO COOL???!!!

http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r654/llamavan/coolant%20tour/coolant_tour5_a_zps8d078a0d.jpg

In 30 years am I the first one to realize this?

The tube that goes to the block runs up to the front near the water pump???
If that is true it will cause the pump to cavitate air???

[timsrv]

The pump cannot cavitate air if none is present. The pump just keeps the coolant moving so it can circulate through all parts of the cooling system. The volume of coolant that passes through the radiator and heater core dissipates enough heat for all the coolant when it mixes upon return to the pump (heat is equalized/transfered from different parts of the system when it mixes at the pump). Tim

[coronan]

I think air is likely due to steam pockets forming near hot spots in the head. The van is not renowned for its flawless cooling system.
1. Limited Air flow
2. Low pressure radiator cap from the factory. = coolant prone to boiling
3. A thermostat on the inlet side of the block


Here is my bible on cooling.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

For a long time I have wanted to install a surge tank on the van.
Less than a decade after the van was produced; pressurized coolant bottles and 20 lb radiator caps became standard equipment on most cars.

Would there be a negative effect if I plumb the HOD to the Radiator vent tube? Or a surge tank installed inline with the Heater Core supply hose?
This puts it closer to the coolant leaving the block and a means for air to escape.

[timsrv]

Looking at that pirate 4x4 page made me realize I'm pretty old school with my knowledge on cooling systems. Perhaps if some modern knowledge is applied to our "old school" vans, some worthwhile improvements could be made (definitely room for improvement). I'm currently blessed with vans that do not give me and grief in this area, but I know our cooling systems can be problematic. If you happen upon that "magic mod" that cures these issues please share with the rest of us :thmbup:. Tim

[coronan]

#1 mod so far is 19 lb radiator cap. By mishomoto. (sorry no part number). I'll make a new thread with my cooling mods.
On a hot day, when the thermostat runs up to 3/4, I do not loose any coolant.

With the stock cap. A slight overheat purges coolant and even if you idle to cool down, the system is still likely to be low. Any loose hose or slight leak in even the heater core will suck in air instead of coolant.

[djshimon]

This one?
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmrc-13l

[coronan]

I believe so.

[timsrv]

Keep in mind that coronan has a new aluminum radiator. Putting a high pressure cap on an aging OE radiator and/or marginal hoses may end in disaster. Tim

[djshimon]

Thanks Tim. I didn't know he got a new aluminum radiator, nice. I realized after I wrote that it was not responsible if someone(or me) read this thread in passing and decided to up the pressure without knowing what they were doing.:?:
I was just reading that pirate4x4 cooling system thread and it's long and very informative.
Coronan- I look forward to your cooling system thread and addition of a surge tank.

[timsrv]

A stock 13 psi cap is fine for the temperatures the van is designed to run. It's true that more pressure will reduce and/or prevent boil overs, but a 13 psi cap will not allow boil-over unless temperatures exceed design limitations of the van. If allowed to get hot enough for that to occur more stress on things (particularly your head gasket) is the end result. True, a higher pressure cap will delay (and may even prevent) boil-over, but the temperatures reached before that point are much more damaging. Although only another 6 psi, I would advise against that cap. If you do it anyhow, then you should at least have an accurate temperature gauge that reads in degrees. A stock van is typically fine up to ~220° F. If it's running hotter than that, then you're pushing the limits. Excessive wear and/or damage to head gasket, pistons, cylinder walls, and rings will start to occur at temperatures above 230° F. The ideal operating temperature of the 3y/4y falls between 185° F - 210° F. If yours is consistently running above that, then there's something else going on that needs to be addressed. Tim

[djshimon]

Thanks Tim-won't be upping pressure on this van. I will be going for an extra radiator(heater core mod) like you did to help with cooling when the a/c is on in the summer.
in the pirate 4x4 cooling thread they don't list an extra radiator in their ten commandments but i think it's a viable option for us.

[timsrv]

Some facts to consider: @ 0 psi (no cap) a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix boils @ 226° F. @ 13 psi, it will boil @ 261° F. @ 19 psi, it will boil @273° F.

When you shut-off the engine the coolant circulation stops, so engine temps will temporarily increase (I'm guessing around 30°). Other than possible heat soak (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?289-Is-it-the-infamous-hot-soak) issues this is of little concern because the engine is stopped (no wear on moving parts). However, if your engine operating temp is >230°, it will likely boil-over after shut-down and you'll lose some coolant (at least with a 13 psi cap). This is the only scenario where the 19 psi cap could help, but it would only reduce and/or eliminate coolant loss. If your van is running hotter than 220° F, then you're better off finding and solving the root cause rather than using a higher pressure cap (band-aid). Just my 2¢. Tim

[coronan]

4697

[hughdawgmmkay]

Alright guys... I have a further question to ask on this Hose of Death thread.

I sent in my head to get rebuilt, and need to put the Hose of Death 4 bolt plate back on the head.

Can anyone help with what kind of gasket maker this plate requires?

Thank you!
Hugh

[timsrv]

There is actually a gasket that goes here. It's Toyota part #11182-71010 (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~cylinder~head~rear~plate~11182-71010.html). Although not required, I'll usually use a very thin layer of FIPG (Form-In-Place Gasket) (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~fipg~oil~pan~00295-00103.html) on both sides of the Toyota gasket. If you need the plate/nipple, I believe it's still available for 2wd vans and 5-speed 4wd vans. That is Toyota part #11181-73010 (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~plate~cylinder~head~rear~11181-73010.html). If you have a 4wd auto, sadly that plate/nipple is NLA. You'd need to resort to something like what trestlehed did in this post: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?4346-Coolant-level-dropping-but-not-showing-on-pressure-test&p=25321#post25321. Tim

[hughdawgmmkay]

There is actually a gasket that goes here. It's Toyota part #11182-71010 (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~cylinder~head~rear~plate~11182-71010.html). Although not required, I'll usually use a very thin layer of FIPG (Form-In-Place Gasket) (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~fipg~oil~pan~00295-00103.html) on both sides of the Toyota gasket. If you need the plate/nipple, I believe it's still available for 2wd vans and 5-speed 4wd vans. That is Toyota part #11181-73010 (http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~plate~cylinder~head~rear~11181-73010.html). If you have a 4wd auto, sadly that plate/nipple is NLA. You'd need to resort to something like what trestlehed did in this post: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?4346-Coolant-level-dropping-but-not-showing-on-pressure-test&p=25321#post25321. Tim

Tim you are incredible! Thank you! I would have never know, the plate was stuck on with some sort of white gasket maker before... I just ordered the gasket so I'll be good to go now!

-Hugh

[amcneill]

im in the process of planning out a heater delete to make things easier/more simple and have less chance of something leaking down the road.

am i able to make a block off plate for the rear hose of death, and block off the line going to the front/rear heater hose T, and still have the coolant circulating through the engine via upper/lower rad hoses?? im aware i would be bypassing the throttle body warmer but i wont be driving it in cold winters so thats not too much of a concern...is there anything else im bypassing that will cause troubles? if there is no coolant going to either front or rear heater hoses, will i have to worry about capping the line here: 5134

or will be there be no coolant going to that line anymore anyways after the rear plate has been blocked off?

thanks for all the help, i think i know what i need to do for the most part but im still a bit unsure what all happens with the coolant bypass hoses, and how much theyre needed

[timsrv]

I'm not sure what you're using the van for, but not having a working heater doesn't sound like much fun to me. To each his own I guess. If you really don't want it, there will be 3 places to block off and they're all on the head.

There's the "hose of death" port on the back of the head
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_4114_zpssumw04ue.jpg


The heater hose output port on the front of the head
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_4112_zpswmjyxsk0.jpg

And the heater hose return port on the side of the head (right behind the radiator return port)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_4113_zpsftuaw28t.jpg

That last one would be a PITA to cap off with the engine installed/assembled. An alternate way for that could be to put a hose plug on the metal tube where it comes out the D/S back of the engine. If you do it that way, then you'll also need to get the bypass return line that's also part of that metal tube assy.

Frankly, I'd rather replace hoses, then you'd have heat and not need to mess with it (at least the hoses) for another ~30 years (but that's just me). Tim

[amcneill]

Thank you for your response! that last picture was what i needed to see!

The reason for wanting to remove the "water bypass" hoses is that many of the nipples that connect to the heater hose (eg. the little metal tubes coming off of the throttle body) have rusted completely off and are no longer really usable....rather than just bypassing all of this with more heater hose and having pointless hoses going throughout the engine that no longer are serving a purpose....i figured it would be easier in the long run to bypass all of this and just have coolant flowing through the engine. I wouldnt complain about still keeping the heaters, but i didnt think that would be possible with removing the throttle body heater hose/idle air control valve/hose of death/everything else that runs around the intake area.

Thanks, andrew

[Surf5557]

I'm in Van purgatory right now with the Hose By-pass Pipe No.2 on my 1984. The steel coolant pipes are riddled with cracks along rusty striations that run their entire length. I'm wondering if anyone can sell me a new by-pass pipe!? Its pipe number 16278 on the diagram below.
http://parts.germaintoyotaofnaples.com/images/parts/toyota/fullsize/MA6928D.jpg

...And thank you for creating this wonderful forum site Tim (and co.)! It's a breath of air after feeling like I was underwater for so long.

[timsrv]

I'm wondering if anyone can sell me a new by-pass pipe!? Its pipe number 16278 on the diagram below.
http://parts.germaintoyotaofnaples.com/images/parts/toyota/fullsize/MA6928D.jpg................


That one is likely still available from Toyota. It's part #16278-73011 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~pipe~water~by~pass~no~2~16278-73011.html) and sells for around $60 (MSRP), or you can purchase from the site I linked to (click on the part number above), and pay $43 (then pay the $17 you saved in shipping). Tim

[Surf5557]

Does anyone know the correct order of operations for installing the upper manifold and throttle body? Last time I struggled for hours trying to line up the most accessible bolt that holds the by-pass bracket to the manifold, but I gave up on the second bolt that was further towards the "Hose from hell." Is it somehow easier to assemble these parts with the by-pass pipe already mounted?

Also, I find that the length of my hoses is causing issues. Nowhere in my 1984 Factory Manual does it list instructions for this. I'd love to just bypass the by-pass!

[timsrv]

I vaguely remember dealing with that years ago before cutting the access hole (as pictured earlier in this thread). Hasn't been an issue since. Did you cut an access hole?

If you're planning to use the van in cold temperatures (below freezing), I wouldn't disable the bypass. Doing so would prevent the air valve from working and would allow freeze-ups of the throttle body. Tim

Edit: I believe I leave that pipe assy bolted to the manifold, then cut both the bypass hoses (HOD 1 & 2). The vacuum lines are not that hard to pull off. After the manifold is out of the way, it's easy to clean-up/remove the left-over parts of hoses. Tim

[Surf5557]

Thanks Tim!
The second go around to correct the leaking bypass pipe I brazed the holes with an oxyacetylene torch and brass, then I bolted it onto the throttle body/manifold, and after that I installed the manifold. The last thing I ended up doing was connect the hoses (without the access hole) and everything is sealed up tight now for 2 weeks.
I'm convinced I fixed the leak this time, although I'm a little embarrassed that I did use some alumiseal in the coolant and it did nothing but congest my cooling system. Whoops

[Surf5557]

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/cooling%20system/IMG_4113_zpsftuaw28t.jpg

That last one would be a PITA to cap off with the engine installed/assembled. An alternate way for that could be to put a hose plug on the metal tube where it comes out the D/S back of the engine. If you do it that way, then you'll also need to get the bypass return line that's also part of that metal tube assy.

Frankly, I'd rather replace hoses, then you'd have heat and not need to mess with it (at least the hoses) for another ~30 years (but that's just me). Tim

In the last picture you have included a peek of the vacuum lines that go into the valve on the power steering pump. How does one correctly install those hoses when the valve can be under/over torqued and the orientation of the ports reversed? Is there indication for correct orientation on the pump valve?

[timsrv]

In the last picture you have included a peek of the vacuum lines that go into the valve on the power steering pump. How does one correctly install those hoses when the valve can be under/over torqued and the orientation of the ports reversed? Is there indication for correct orientation on the pump valve?

It doesn't matter if they're reversed. It's just an on/off valve so it doesn't matter which hose goes where.

[spacecruisers]

the pre-formed hoses on the underside of the intake (part numbers in purple) are all NLA.

5468

I have some hose the same size but it kinks when I try to bend it at that angle. I was able to replace the one small straight piece obviously, but the bent pieces kink pretty bad.

is there a way to form it to the proper shape? or maybe use a different type of hose material thats more flexible?

[timsrv]

That really sucks............I was wondering when that was going to happen. Those are all vacuum hoses with ~1/2" ID (to direct air through the Auxiliary Air Valve). The only thing that comes to mind is to find some 1/2" ID formed heater hose with tight bends, then cut parts out of it to match what you need. When I get in a spot like that I ask the guys at my local Napa to let me look through their inventory. There's also some weird shapes and bends available at the Dorman HELP! rack.

Then there's brass nipple elbows pushed onto straight hose. Another option is Unicoils. Gates makes devices called "Unicoils" that you put over straight hoses. You get one that fits the OD of the hose, then you can bend sharply and it prevents kinking. They work, but I'm not crazy about them as they make the hoses heavy and clunky. As these vans get older and parts get harder to find, I suspect there will be a lot more of this type thing we're forced to do to keep them on the road. Good luck. Tim

[originalkwyjibo]

That really sucks as I was getting ready to rebuild a spare engine and replace all that stuff. I went through this when I did my head gasket 5 years ago. I tried my best to avoid the dealer but ran in to problem after problem with aftermarket hoses. The issue was the diameter. They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal. From what I remember there was not enough room on some of the air valve connections to install a clamp. I had the same issue with coolant hoses and the local industrial hose supplier told me this was common on Toyota, Mercedes, and a few others that chose to use metric sizes. The solution was to either stretch on the next size down or clamp down the next size up. I ordered all that was available form the dealer and compromised on the rest. I used a unicoil for the small angled hoses at the rear heater core as they were NLA at that time but like Tim said it makes for a bulky hose and may not fit for the air valve application. Two years ago when I tried to find a unicoil for my Subaru most parts store counter persons looked at me like I was a moron and said," A uni-what?". The guy that finally knew what I was talking about said they quit making them but I've still seen them online just not on the local parts store counter.

[llamavan]

[...] problem after problem with aftermarket hoses. The issue was the diameter. They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal.

And this is why I had to spend eight hours on my back on a cold cement floor (and cussing almost the entire time) to replace a leaking HOD not all that long after the head job (by someone else). There's no substitute for OEM hose, especially in any hard-to-access locations!

Gwen

[originalkwyjibo]

They actually are not 1/2 inch but 12 mm which requires a clamp to seal and is still not ideal.
I was incorrect on the size. Factory is 14mm not 12mm. Hope I didn't cause anyone confusion.

[Jbbishop2]

Just another Hose o' Death access panel job, and huge thanks to the detailed original post and all the help that was posted after. I'm replacing the hose with the only thing the local CarQuest auto store had that will fit, SAE 30R7 fuel line hose (https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/400052-131280). It's rated to 50 PSI working, 250 psi burst, 275 degrees F, and is nitrile-lined. The silicone heater hose sounds better, but a hose in the hand...

5554

5555

[AD2101]

Good luck man. I nearly got burned by the previous owner cheaping out and using 50 psi fuel hose rather than proper heater hose for a hose of death replacement. It worked for a couple of years but split in half at literally the most inopportune time.

I'm sure you could rock it for a while but I'd hope you get some proper hose for it. It'll be a quick replacement since you've already done all the leg work.

[Jbbishop2]

Good luck man. I nearly got burned by the previous owner cheaping out and using 50 psi fuel hose rather than proper heater hose for a hose of death replacement. It worked for a couple of years but split in half at literally the most inopportune time.

I'm sure you could rock it for a while but I'd hope you get some proper hose for it. It'll be a quick replacement since you've already done all the leg work.

It's a valid point, and I'm going to pick up the Toyota 99556-10200 (or 99556-10300, as Tim recommended, long enough to make two replacements) as soon as possible. The original seems too have lasted 29+ years, that's good enough for me. Thanks for reinforcing the urge to get the right part.

[armorrell]

I'll be doing this change out soon and post another video of the process once I get into it. Thanks so much TIM for all the reference points and education. It's definitely invaluable!

[ShapeShifter]

I'll be doing this change out soon and post another video of the process once I get into it. Thanks so much TIM for all the reference points and education. It's definitely invaluable!

Looking forward to it. Ramjetalpha1

[Kombi]

It would appear that it is prudent for a new owner who is positive that nothing has been done in 15 years to a van to flush, then replace all water hoses, and the thermostat? And that the OEM hoses are worth the premium. Time to get a parts list together. Any particular antifreeze? Will the antifreeze sold for Asian cars work? Or is that for aluminum engines?

[Kombi]

For those that need preformed tight bend vacuum hoses that are NLA 90 degree plastic angles are available from a variety of sources.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&ei=459AXL2gF8--ggezs7ugBw&q=1%2F8%27%27+plastic+90+degree+angle&oq=1%2F8%27%27+plastic+90+degree+angle&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i299l3.13357.41495..42070...2.0..0.156.270 3.20j9......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j35i39j0i131j0j38j0i22i30j0i13i30j33 i22i29i30.JwLHLHVeh0c

Hydroponic supply stores might be a source. I think Granger or a heating supply Jobber. Some heating systems are vacuum controlled. A brake tubing bender might let you do the angle in steel.

[JDM VANMAN]

The other day after driving the van on some morning errands I noticed some smoke coming out from underneath the driver side of the van, I opened the door and could hear a drip and burn off with smoke, because of where it was located I thought for sure it was the Hose of Death!!


Contacted my MasterTech and informed him of what was happening and the following day Sunday afternoon I drove it over to his house for a quick diagnosis. He jacked up the van and rolled under with the creeper for inspection and found not only that the Heater circulation molded hose was dripping but the Hose Of Death had developed elephantitis (fully expanded) unfortunately I couldn’t get a picture of that from laying on the creeper.


Thank you Tim for documenting this thread, I sent him the link for review as an easier option for the repair and he loved it.


Leaking Heater Circulation Molded Hose/Repaired with molded hose to route away from the manifold.


https://i.imgur.com/JAoMMuz.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/dqjhCKm.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/BMrwTtE.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/4WH3eDn.jpg


Hose of Death ready to blow


https://i.imgur.com/sZBCgJQ.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/4m8PPUe.jpg


Cut access hole and replace with the Gates Heater Hose, new clamps, heater foil wrap and seal back up


https://i.imgur.com/nQuIslI.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/umARJJc.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/HeM0IC5.jpg




Thank you Tim

JDM

[Kombi]

Has malleable copper tubing been tried? this seems to be a cheap and easy to bend tubing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWP_zEKLvyc

[Jbbishop2]

I haven't tried copper tubing for the HoD, but this is a nice method, thanks for the link!

[feNiO]

Hey guys,

I am in the process of swapping the EFI components (Manifold, fuel tank, fuel filter, body harness, ECU, fuel rail, injectors etc.) from one of Australia's version of the Toyota Van with the 4Y-EC engine. I am currently installing the top half of the plenum chamber. I have installed the first hose of death from the cylinder head. I was able to get the plate with the nipple on the back of the engine by feeling around and using a stubby ratcheting wrench; without having to cut an access hole. As I went to install the second hose of death hose with Timsrv recommendation (Gates 5/16 or 8mm hose). The nipple coming off the pipe that runs from the thermostat, along the engine block then runs along the firewall currently sits behind the pipe coming from the air valve under the top half of the plenum chamber. Upon looking at some of the photos of the HOD #2 in this thread, it seems the hose just goes over each end of the pipe without any extreme bends. I am sure that I have installed something incorrectly, as I am unable to connect the 5/16 hose between the two pipes without the hose bending due to the extreme angle. I have attached some photos to illustrate the issue I am having. Perhaps one of you guys might be able to point out what I forgot to install or installed incorrectly.

Regards,

1032210323
Matt.

[timsrv]

yeah, something doesn't look right. Check the 1st picture in post #57 this thread. Tim

[feNiO]

Great pictures Tim! That perspective was neccessary. Looks like that heater core pipe was bent a little too far towards the manifold and was placing greater stress HOD #2. Got it to bend at a reasonable angle without kinking too much. Seems like coolant can pass through the manifold.

[Wrench]

Hey Tim, I just got done replacing the HOD and tragically my van is still leaking. I've been browsing the site for awhile trying to figure out what would cause coolant dripping off the bell housing other than the HOD and can't find anything. My access hole(s) (whoops) give me clear sightlines of the area around the HOD and I'm pretty sure there's no leak at the plate or pipes it connects to. What else could this be? Thanks!

1139011390

[timsrv]

Is it leaking on the outside of the engine or is it coming out from the area between the transmission and engine? There is a large 50mm freeze plug up high on the back of the engine. It's not accessible with the transmission installed, so if it looks like it's coming out from the transmission bell housing, that's probably the culprit. If it's leaking down the exposed engine block, then it's probably one of the metal coolant tubes or maybe the "2nd hose of death" that was talked about earlier in this thread. I hope it's not the freeze plug :doh: Good luck. Tim

[Wrench]

I accidentally cut my first access hole right at the "second hose of death" so I can clearly see it and I'm pretty sure it's.not leaking there. Are there any metal coolant tubes I wouldn't be able to see that could be the cause? None of the heater core related hoses run up high like that do they? If it is the freeze plug how would I proceed? My gut tells me that's the issue... The back of the engine photos earlier in this thread show it exactly where I imagine the leak.

[timsrv]

If its that freeze plug, then the engine or transmission would need to be removed to fix. It could also be a head gasket leak (sometimes they can spring external leaks down the left side (driver's side) of the engine (usually in the back). Head gaskets suck too as the head would need to come off to replace. Maybe you could get a camera or your phone down there to get a better look? Sometimes things like Bars Leak can seal these type leaks, but products like that can also have adverse side effects, so if this van is something you want to keep long term, I don't recommend going that way. Tim

[Wrench]

Head gasket is something I'd also considered and yeah I'm pretty attached to the van and it's otherwise in pretty good shape so I don't really want to use a stop leak product. I've tried getting in there with my phone but it's a bit tricky to reach, maybe I'll try to find a set of mirrors I can use to poke in there. Thanks again Tim!

[timsrv]

I took this picture of my head gasket leak with a normal digital camera. These can do this anywhere on the drivers side, but usually it's on the back (like the one in my photo). Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0170.jpg

[Wrench]

Is this spot to the left of the HOD looking in from the access hole?

[timsrv]

It's looking at the rear of the engine from the driver's side. That's the exhaust manifold bolted to #4 exhaust port on the head (just above the leak). The blur in the top left is where the EGR tube attaches to the exhaust manifold.

[Wrench]

Ended up taking it to a shop another Toyota Van owner recommended and they found the issue! There was a block heater installed in place of a freeze plug on the side of the block and it had failed. The coolant must have been running along something to make it seem like the leak was behind the block. We're back on the road finally!

[89van]

Hoo boy...
I imagine only in the darkest corner of my mind now that a Hose of Death has blew but reading through the many posts in this thread and the symptoms I had when my Van decided to dump coolant on the ground after going for a brief drive to the store is filling me with grief!

As of now I'm currently trying to pinpoint where this leak is coming from (back of the engine somewhere in the jungle of hoses, coolant was dripping and burning on the exhaust manifold and down the bell housing on the left side I believe)
Also noticed inside of my radiator cap cooling Junction? Sorry dont know the name, it looks awfully brown!:doh: that will need to be addressed too.

11711
Photo from the power steering access port looking at the bell housing, note the wet spot from coolant
11712
Stain from some left over sludge presumably from the coolant
11713
View from the bottom behind the drivers front wheel looking up at a hose, might be the culprit or the dreaded Hose of Death or something associated with the cooling system. Hose in topic is the one behind the hose with the bolt on it; not sure if my camera picked it up but it looks like it is leaking
11714

This is not a rushed issue hopefully as I have my 1983 P'up to take my Van's role of delivering stuff as of now but I sure hope this hose replacement and flushing job can be done properly, albeit something else doesnt pop up... thankfully it blew after I was done driving so I didnt risk cooking my motor! Sheesh, what else is gonna happen this week?:dizzy:

[AD2101]

I couldn't get your attachments to open but, when my hose of death blew (on the side of the I-10 by Picacho Peak no less) I noticed coolant coming off the bellhousing, so you might be on to something here. You really won't get a good idea until you get underneath the van and do some investigating but, if it is the hose of death, you caught it before it blew up your engine and it's really not a terrible job as long as you're not opposed to cutting in an access panel.

[89van]

Sorry my images didn't work for some reason, but yes, there was coolant boiling off my transmission bell housing when it blew. Which one? I dunno as of now, but I am seeking thru the website to get an estimate of what needs to be done (Hose of Death, Coolant flush + new hoses [mine are pretty crispy]) reasonably. Cutting however, not too sure about that either... :no: Probably not so I'll have to do it the long-hard way.

[timsrv]

It can be done from the top if you pull the valve cover 1st.

[89van]

So what exactly would need to be done to do this job; removing the valve cover and the intake? Haven't done any engine disassembly before and i know the labor from a shop would eat me alive. :cnfsd:

[timsrv]

With the valve cover removed you have enough access to see and replace that hose. It's a bit tight, but possible (no need to split and/or remove the intake manifold). There's a "2nd hose of death" that can be replaced from under the van, but it's probably not that one because that wouldn't leak onto your bell housing. There's also a "3rd hose of death" sandwiched between the intake manifold halves (way worse access), but that one is sheltered from the elements a bit and I've never seen that one fail (at least not yet). The one that fails the most, and the subject of this thread, is between the back of the head and the engine compartment, and based on your description, probably the one leaking. It's about 4 inches long and is held on with 2 spring style hose clamps. Tim

[89van]

Hey tim, just wanted to double check something:
the hose of death behind the block that leaks onto the bell housing, is there another part # for it out there? the one on page 1 doesn't bring in anything, anywhere! :cnfsd: Should I just opt for the Gates cooling hose in that case? If there is an interchangeable part #, please do let me know. I'm planning on bundling my VCG, a good coolant flush (I believe its contaminated as someone mentioned earlier in the thread), and obviously the HoD!

Thanks!

[timsrv]

Here's a quote from another thread:


That particular hose & the hose of death are not available in OE anymore, but Toyota does sell this same hose in bulk. The OE HOD actually did have a slight bend formed into it, but it was so slight, the bulk hose has absolutely no problem conforming. You can buy in pre-cut lengths, but I usually buy in 300 mm (about 1') and cut to size. It's Toyota part number 99556-10300 (the 300 on the end is length). And yes, being OE it's ridiculously expensive ($8.53, ~71¢ per inch), but it's worth it to me for the piece of mind...........especially in those hard to access areas.

BTW, this hose is also available in 200 mm lengths (about 8") Toyota part number 99556-10200. Price works out about the same per inch, but I've found the 200 mm piece just slightly too short to make into 2 hoses of death. If you buy the 300 mm piece, you can get 2 HODs out of it (less waste). If you purchase from one of those on-line Toyota parts sites, you can save ~30% on price, but the shipping will usually make up the difference. Tim

The Gates hose is good too (maybe better), but it's just slightly too big OD to re-use the factory spring clamps. I used to think the spring clamps were junk, but over the years I've learned to appreciate them. They keep constant pressure on, so even when the hose softens and compresses the clamps keep it tight. Nothing wrong with the stainless screw clamps, but those usually need to be tightened at least once in the life of the hose or you may end up with leaks. Not such a big deal if the hose is right there and easy to get at, but quite annoying if the hose is in a bad spot (like this one). I've gotten to a point where I don't like working on my vehicles all the time so I try to use the products that give me the least grief. There's also the silicone heater hose now, and that stuff is supposed to be superior (but very expensive). Right now I'm trying that stuff out on my top radiator vent hose. I'm thinking I'll start using that stuff exclusively in the future. If you go with that, you want an inside diameter of 5/16". I don't remember the brand I got, but the factory spring clamps fit perfectly on it. Tim

[89van]

Thanks for the info tim!
Good mechanic of mine replaced the HoD with that bulk Gates hose and generic bulk hose clamps; VCG and a Coolant Flush was also done in addition to some cooling hoses too :) Only issue I had was a brief RPM Signal on the way back from his shop but I'll double check the codes later today; still running lean and that RPM Signal is a new one.

[samstrader]

I have a 1991 Toyota Previa. Is there a hose of death or other "disaster looming" issue on a Previa like this Hose of Death?

I've read this thread because it was very interesting and I like seeing the clever ways Tim and others have tackled an issue but now I'm worried I'm missing something on my Previa.

This forum has helped me so much. I wish I would have found it a lot sooner.

Thanks,

Sam

[man_btc]

1992 Previa owner here. I don't think there's anything on the Previa with such catastrophic failure potential that's as hidden away from examination and replacement as the HOD is on the Vans.

[samstrader]

Thanks Man_btc... I appreciate your reply and now won't worry so much. I also just read a thread about checking valve clearances and my need to do that since I have never checked them and have 400K on the car. It still has good power so i don't think I have a problem but I'm going to check.

Thanks again.

Sam