It takes 10 seconds now to start

[AnotherUser]

I recently bought an '86 2wd van that has been running great. The only thing that I have had noticed is that there have been a couple times when I am driving that it has kind of sputtered while accelerating, but this has only happened a few times over the course of 2 months and 1,000+ miles.

Now when I went to start it it takes 10+ seconds and once it's started it stalled when I went to give it gas. It does run though once it get's going.

For the last few days it now takes 10+ seconds to cold start

[timsrv]

Hi & Welcome to TVT! It sounds like you are experiencing the classic "heat soak" issue. To find out more read this thread:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?289-Is-it-the-infamous-hot-soak

The long cranking times (when cold) could be a faulty fuel pressure regulator or maybe the check ball in the fuel pump. For more information on this read this thread:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?589-Testing-fuel-system-replacing-fuel-pressure-regulator

[AnotherUser]

Thanks for the suggestions. Do you know where I can find a good image or illustration of the layout of the engine and all parts. I am trying to find where the fuel regulator is in relation to the fuel pump.

[timsrv]

That 2nd thread I linked you to features replacement of the FPR. It's located between the 2 halves of the intake manifold towards the rear of the engine. You can change it from underneath the van (as shown in that thread). For location of it and other van components, use the factory service manual. It can be downloaded here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4u_5zlshRsVDv5v86CiukP7wOD7nKyF/view

[AnotherUser]

Thanks for the link to that manual, that will be useful to have.

I just wanted to add, it idles perfect, runs great at high speeds, climbs hills great, it's just when I am at a stop and begin to accelerate it sometimes sputters a bit

[timsrv]

If it hesitates/sputters all the time (hot or cold) on take-off, then check your throttle body intake tube. Here's a quote from another thread where this is explained:


They tend to tear near the throttle body end and on the back-side (where it's hard to see). To check for this start the van and while it's idling grab the tube and squeeze it. If the van stumbles or stalls then the tube is leaking air. A leaking air tube will make the van run bad because the air flow meter needs to monitor ALL the intake air to function correctly.

Here's a picture of a really bad air tube:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IntakeHoseCrack.jpg

Even one that's just barely cracked will make the van run bad......especially when in gear at low RPM or at an idle. This is because the engine torques to the side when it's in gear.........and this sideways torque makes the crack open bigger.............. Tim

And here's a link to a thread that tells you how to get one:

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?515-Air-Intake

[AnotherUser]

Thanks. I did check that throttle intake tube and it looks good. I also replaced the fuel filter, but it still has the same symptoms.

[timsrv]

Have you rigged up a fuel pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure after shut-down?

[AnotherUser]

Are there any threads that show how to replace the entire fuel pump? I wasn't able to find a full how to on it

[timsrv]

For help in diagnosing the problem (testing the pump) Here's a post that should help: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?2032-1987-2wd-fire-but-no-fuel-(been-sitting-for-years)&p=12096#post12096

I don't recall any threads that focus specifically on replacing the fuel pump, but there's a few where this is mentioned and some pics of one removed. It's not that big of a deal really. Here's the steps off the top of my head:

1. Take gas cap off (relieves any vapor pressure that may be built up inside tank).

2. Gasoline is very dangerous, especially when it's warm or hot outside........and it should be only handled outside away from sparks and in a well ventilated area. Make sure you're aware of the safe handling practices, then use a 3/8" ratchet and extension to remove drain plug. Catch the fuel in a plastic drain pan and immediately transfer it into an approved container.

3. Remove flexible fuel lines, disconnect wire connections (2) and drop tank.

4. Once the tank is down, clean the dirt & debris away from the forward port and remove screws (compressed air works good for this).

5. Pull the cap off the port and the fuel pump assembly will come off with it.

To help get you familiar with components and how to drop the tank, check out this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?188-Fuel-gauge-not-working

Perhaps you can take some pics and make a tutorial thread while you're doing the job :thmbup:. Tim

PS: I've used this pump twice now and they seem to be holding up well. I've run one of them for 10k miles and another for 20k: http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Motor-Works-USEP8023-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/171550186341?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f1301b65&vxp=mtr

[AnotherUser]

For help in diagnosing the problem (testing the pump) Here's the steps off the top of my head:

Would you have enough room to do this if it was on jack stands, or would it need to be raised higher to easily drop the tank? While doing this, is there any other regular maintenance or anything to work on while the tanks down?

Thanks for the info and ebay link

[timsrv]

Always nice to have a lift, but most of us can't afford (or justify) such a luxury. Yes, it can be done on jack-stands. Last several I've removed have been on jack-stands. If you've been having issues with your fuel gauge, fixing that issue should be done at the same time. Info in that 2nd link (above) should help with that. Have fun. Tim