Sliding door fix

[timsrv]

I have a trick I use for the rear center sliders (these are the ones that typically go 1st). I take PEX tubing (used for potable water systems on RVs) 1/4"ID X 3/8"OD, and make my own bushings. They won't roll like the old ones, but work a heck of a lot better than steel on steel and it's cheap. It's a tight fit, so even the pins that are worn down will still grab onto the pipe. It takes a little force to push the pieces of pipe on good pins, but it's managable. Here's some pics I took last time I did it. This is on a Previa, but the center rear rollers are the same on the vans. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_8244.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_8245.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_8247.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_8248.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_8249.jpg

[terbennett]

Hi Tim. I don't see any pics. However, this will be very helpful since my 1991 Previa's sliding door is having issues with the rear rollers. I've been told that this is a common issue on any van with a sliding side door.

[timsrv]

That's odd. Is any body else having trouble seeing? They show up for me. Tim

[zeratool]

No issues--they come up for me ok.
Rob

[VanSurfer]

:whs:

[Flounder]

Tim, thanks for importing/redoing this info from TVP.com! I need to do this repair on 2 of my 3 vans.
I am not having any trouble seeing the pictures.

[Gdsawd]

Hello Tim, i am about to try your fix for the center slider. I notice the front pin on mine seems to be bent towards the rear this cant be normal can it? Anyhow thanks for the easy and economical fix.

[timsrv]

It should be straight (as shown in my pics). If you can't straighten it, you may need to scavenge another slider bracket from a salvage yard. Good luck! Tim

[Gdsawd]

Couple of love taps with a dolly backing the pin and it straightened right up. Cut and installed the pex bushings and my door closes like a champ. Nice fix for $1.77 and I can do this for long time since I have 4'11" left of my pex tubing. Thanks again

[elipsoid]

I am having issues with my sliding door as well. The plastic on one of the wheels on the center roller is worn. Problem is, mine seems a bite different. I can't slide the old wheel out - it seems to be in some sort of a rivet. Or did I look wrong and it is possible to slide the plastic wheel out to replace it with the tube? It would really make my day, I am now literally living in my van and I open and close the doors dozens of times a day.

[Gdsawd]

Not sure what you are saying about the plastic wheel, the only wheel on my assembly was the metal one in the center and the two pins on either side that I assume once had some sort of plastic wheel on it. Are those the wheels you are referring to?

[elipsoid]

Yes, the metal wheel in the middle holds the weight of the back of the door and the two pins originally contained some sort of white plastic-looking wheels. One is still there, the other (the one in the back) seems either deformed or was replaced by the previous owner by something else (which apparently doesn't work that well). I'll try to find the tubing and make some pictures when I disassemble the thing.

[previagal]

Hi again Tim,
I can't tell from the photos, did you have to remove that metal part from the car? Then doesn't the door fall down? Or are those photos taken with the part still on the car?
Thank you,
Barb

[timsrv]

I recommend removing the door 1st. I won't say it's impossible to do without completely removing the door (because I'm sure somebody would prove me wrong), but that would likely be tedious & frustrating. Removing the door is easy & once off you will have complete access. To remove a sliding door on a Previa, open the back hatch, work your fingers between the back window and the interior panel, then give it a good yank. You don't have to remove this panel completely, just pop it off far enough to get a 10 mm socket into the hole just below the back lower corner of the RR window. Removing the nut inside this hole will release the trim piece at the back of the center slide track.

Next you take the front lower slide bracket off the door and just let it stay there. If you're strong you can do this next part by yourself, but even then it's better to have a helper (makes things much more manageable and lowers the chance of scratches and/or other damage). If you have a helper, put them at the back of the door. It will be their job to support the back and keep it from contacting the van. Your job will be to support the front and keep the lower part of the door from contacting the van. Now open the door beyond it's normal travel...........until the center rear slider comes out of the track. When this happens your friend will be the only thing supporting the back of the door. With the center slider out the only thing supporting the front of the door is you and the top slider. Being careful to not let the center slider re-enter it's track, slowly close the door (about 3 or 4") until the top slider wheel aligns with a notch (wide point) in the slide rail. When you find this spot the door will fall, so be ready to catch/support it. Door is completely off the van now and can be carried to a safe spot. It's a good idea to have cardboard or carpet ready to set the door on. Now you can fix the center slider. You can remove it from the door or fix it in place.

Re-install the door in reverse order and when the 10 mm nut is back on, simply use your fist to pound the back interior panel back on. There is a clip on the back panel that fit's into the rubber seal for the back hatch. That is likely the only spot that will require special attention. Simply pull the seal away from the body in this area, push the clip past it, then push the seal back on & over the clip. Tim

[timsrv]

Here's another thread on the subject: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?922-i-have-the-all-time-sliding-door-cure-for-you He uses bearings instead of tubing. I'm sure there are at least another 2 or 3 threads here too where other things were used to repair. I think NEC found some plastic bushings at a hardware store that fit & functions just like the original (they're loose enough to spin). Tim

[trestlehed]

This thread reminded me of my temporary sliding door "fix" until Tim mailed me a nice used door latch.
Thanks again Tim!

1893

1894

[previagal]

He is a fountain of information willingly shared (thank you)

[Kim]

Hi Tim,

I have a 1987 Toyota Van Wagon. I'm trying to fix the sliding door asap; I don't have any experience fixing cars, so I am trying to find the center roller at salvage yards and get someone to help me fix it. They are proving difficult to come by!

You mentioned that the center roller for the Previa is the same. Is this true? Could I order the Previa center roller and install it on my van?

Thank you so much,

Kim

[timsrv]

Hi & welcome to TVT. When I said that, I meant the same in regards to design type and the size rollers. The Vanwagons and Previas use different mounting brackets. If you're looking to buy the complete roller/bracket assembly new, the one for the Vanwagon is Toyota Part# 68330-87002. List Price is $111.94 but some of the discount parts sites (like www.1stToyotaParts.com) will sell for $82.78 + about double what reasonable shipping would be (assuming they are still available from Toyota). Tim

[Kim]

Thanks for your response. Toyota stopped making the part, so I have been trying to find it at salvage yards. I don't need the assembly, but it's missing all 3 rollers. The 2 side rollers just have a thin piece of black plastic, and the center lower roller is completely missing. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

[timsrv]

Thanks for your response. Toyota stopped making the part, so I have been trying to find it at salvage yards. I don't need the assembly, but it's missing all 3 rollers. The 2 side rollers just have a thin piece of black plastic, and the center lower roller is completely missing. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

A picture would help. There are 3 roller assemblies on the van. There's the front lower, the front upper, and the rear center. When you say "center lower roller" are you talking about the bearing in the middle of the rear center roller assembly? If so, I would think this could be repaired with a standard bearing, but this would depend on the condition of the stand-off the bearing mounts too. If you can't do yourself, then the challenge would be finding somebody capable/willing to take this on. Tim

[Kim]

The attached photo is not from my van. (I haven't removed the one from my van yet, so it's hard to get a photo). This is a photo of a rear center roller assembly that a salvage yard sent me. (Just wanted to use it as a reference).

My rear center roller assembly has two sliders with black plastic bushings (like the one on the right in this picture). I am missing the middle bearing. The stand-off that the bearing mounts to looks like it's in good condition.

If I am able to get the middle bearing replaced, do you think the two sliders with black plastic bushings are good to go?

Thanks again; this has already been super helpful!

[timsrv]

If the black plastic is still in good shape, then I'd run with it. If it's worn you should repair as described earlier in this thread. That thing from the salvage yard looks nasty, but even that could be repaired. FYI, that center bearing has an OD of about .666" (that should tell you something : ). If there's still part of the old bearing on the shaft you'll need to grind the end of the shaft down to remove it. Then you can measure the shaft diameter and select a bearing based on ID/OD. After you find and install a replacement bearing, you can either weld a washer on the end of the shaft to hold it, or you could drill and tap the end of the shaft and install a screw with a small head to hold it in place. Tim

[ajamunro]

Hey Kim!

Have you got around the measuring the inside diameter of the center bearing yet? Looks like mine is totally shot so I'm gonna have to replace it this weekend, probably tap & die the end of the shaft after cutting it down. Wish it was a lil' easier.

So O/D .666" and I/D ....?

[stillgoing]

Re-install the door in reverse order and when the 10 mm nut is back on, simply use your fist to pound the back interior panel back on. There is a clip on the back panel that fit's into the rubber seal for the back hatch. That is likely the only spot that will require special attention. Simply pull the seal away from the body in this area, push the clip past it, then push the seal back on & over the clip. Tim


Hi to everybody. Just found this sight and had to sign up. Trying to keep van running without putting a lot of money into it. Tim does this door have to be aligned after doing this repair and if so is there some kind of write up or a print out from a Toyota manual on how to do this. Also have you or anybody replaced the sliding door outside handle? It's a 91 Previa. Had snow then rain yesterday in NJ then a flash freeze last night and this morning pulled on the handle only to have it break off in my hand. Who knows it could just be old age for it breaking. Ordered a new one today and looking to see if there is anything I should know about replacing it before hand. Might even take the door off when things get warmer and do the slide repair at the same time. Thanks LARRY

[timsrv]

There's only the one bracket you need to remove to get the door off (lower front). Before you pull it off it's a good idea to mark it's position (bolt head washers to bracket). You can circle with a sharpie or perhaps scratch with a scribe, etc. As long as you put it back the way it was before there's no need to align (door will be the same as it was before).

I have replaced that handle before, but it was many, many years ago. If I remember right it was a little frustrating, but not impossible. Handle worked when I finished (I remember that much) :thmbup:. Tim

[stillgoing]

There's only the one bracket you need to remove to get the door off (lower front). Before you pull it off it's a good idea to mark it's position (bolt head washers to bracket). You can circle with a sharpie or perhaps scratch with a scribe, etc. As long as you put it back the way it was before there's no need to align (door will be the same as it was before).

I have replaced that handle before, but it was many, many years ago. If I remember right it was a little frustrating, but not impossible. Handle worked when I finished (I remember that much) :thmbup:. Tim

THANKS TIM

[stillgoing]

There's only the one bracket you need to remove to get the door off (lower front). Before you pull it off it's a good idea to mark it's position (bolt head washers to bracket). You can circle with a sharpie or perhaps scratch with a scribe, etc. As long as you put it back the way it was before there's no need to align (door will be the same as it was before).



Tim, I went and looked at the door after you posted this above. One question though. From your original post you wrote " Next you take the front lower slide bracket off the door and just let it stay there". Does this statement mean that the bolts that go into the door are to be removed leaving the whole bracket hanging in the sliding track and if so is it just those 2 bolts or is there 1 under the door panel OR do you mark and then take the bolt out of the bracket leaving one half on the door and the other half staying in the slide? Got to go back out tomorrow after rereading your post to see where the top slider wheel aligns with a notch (wide point) in the slide rail. I see now how the trim piece comes off.

[timsrv]

There are 3 bolts in that front lower bracket. You should be able to easily get the bottom 2 with a socket, but the upper one will require you to pop the interior panel slightly to get access with a wrench. If you'll be replacing the handle too, you may wish to completely remove the interior panel, then you can get all 3 bolts with the socket. But yeah, just leave the bracket sitting there in the slider track while you remove the door from the van. Tim

[stillgoing]

There are 3 bolts in that front lower bracket. You should be able to easily get the bottom 2 with a socket, but the upper one will require you to pop the interior panel slightly to get access with a wrench. If you'll be replacing the handle too, you may wish to completely remove the interior panel, then you can get all 3 bolts with the socket. But yeah, just leave the bracket sitting there in the slider track while you remove the door from the van. Tim


Great thanks. I thought there might be a 3rd bolt there. Planned on taking the door off thinking it might be easier to repair everything. I guess while I'm at it I'll ask what it takes to remove the inside lever that opens the door and the plastic cover for the lock button because it looks like they both need to come off to remove the panel. Nice to have somebody like you around to help keep this old buggies going. LARRY

[JDM VANMAN]

Tim,

have you you repaired the bearing roller by any chance? Mine is shot and is flat on one side so when the kids open the door it's just metal on metal and it's digging into the track.

I found a couple of bearing rollers but not sure if something like this would work-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOFT-QUIET-POLY-WHEEL-BY-COLSON-6-X1-1-2-ROLLER-BEARING-3-8-CENTER-BUFFERS-/130430002613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5e3be5b5


Thank you:thmbup:

[timsrv]

Lol, that thing is 6" in diameter :rol:. Short answer..........no, it won't work :no:. I get the idea though. You could make a bearing the correct size work if you had the tools to work with metal. I don't have a roller bracket laying around to evaluate, but typically these bearings are held captive by a shaft with the end crushed (mushroomed over). To remove the old you'd need to grind the expanded part of the shaft off, slide (or pound) the old bearing off, then slide the new bearing on. in order to keep it in place you'd need to tack weld (tricky to do without damaging bearing), or perhaps weld a washer to the shaft. You might be able to drill & thread the shaft for a retaining screw/washer (depends on how much clearance you have there). Tim

[JDM VANMAN]

Thanks for the remedy but I'm not at that point of DIY yet. Oops, yeah I didn't look at the diameter of that bearing:rol::rol::roflmao: that one won't work at all but thank you for getting the jest of my example.

thank you:thmbup:

[timsrv]

BTW, not sure if this would work (ID & width), but the OD is right: http://www.ebay.com/itm/62203-2RS-Ball-Bearing-17x40x16-Sealed-Bore-id-17mm-Diameter-OD-40mm-16mm-Wide-/400572533875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d43fbcc73

[cvtroger]

I am in the middle of doing this. My sliding door felt like it was getting hooked right before it closes and if you don't put enough force, it won't close. I felt like it was sagging a bit.

I took of my interior panels yesterday to clean and learn the Previa and I decided to see what the issue is with the sliding door.

I could not get the panel off near the handle, but the back part was enough for me to get the middle assembly off. To m surprised, the posts were good and only one cover was going bad. I decided to use the nylon stand offs (0.74 cents for a pair), drilled out and cut to match.

One issue that was different for me was that I didn't have a C clip at the top of the posts. It was like a washer that spun.

I'm heading to the junkyard this week and I will attempt to pull off the brackets any previas they might have there. I am hoping to find one with the C clip and hope in good condition as I want to get try the bearing one and want to get the top and bottom.

[cvtroger]

Wow... I reassembled everything this morning and it feels like a new door!

Originally, there was a bit of play/sagging at the middle when the door was fully open. And the door would not close all the way unless force was applied. Now it is smooth!!!

[terrence]

Good info, I finally fixed mine today. Took about 10 minutes to fix and the door feels like new again.

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/O4qE6EF.jpg


& After:
http://i.imgur.com/4KOkWpw.jpg

[stillgoing]

Replaced the sliding door handle today and found it to be quite easy to do. Just took off the inside panel-disconnected the lock linkage-unhooked the cable-removed 3 bolts and with a little maneuvering it came out and just as easy to put back in. Then did the center rear roller bushings. Bushings were not that bad-no post damage-just cut off the old ones and pressed on new ones. Just used a jack stand to hold the door up while the assembly was out to fix. Then took some time to adjust the door and man does it slide good again. Thanks Tim for this write up.

[cvtroger]

Yup, I made a video about my fix. This is for my previa, but it looks like the bracket is about the same.


https://youtu.be/ANKF9_CMFuE?list=PL5q_8kLVTuqLa8ICIVQa1E_sfirAHnz0 y


Sliding door reference

https://youtu.be/9TKNdSpknJo?list=PL5q_8kLVTuqLa8ICIVQa1E_sfirAHnz0 y


I couldn't figure out the door handle, especially in my dimly lit parking garage. But at the junkyard, I was able to see what I need to do to get the handle off.

https://youtu.be/Qme0hUkL084?list=PL5q_8kLVTuqLa8ICIVQa1E_sfirAHnz0 y


Since I have a spare middle slider assembly, I found that one thread on here where the guy used metal bearings instead of nylon (what I used). I'm gonna look into that this weekend.

[s_e_a_n_s]

My door was a bit different (maybe because the initial instructions were for a Previa). On my '87 LE no interior trim removal was required. The end piece of the middle slider track was held on by a phillips head screw accessible from outside. A hidden screw holding on sliding door panel prevented easy removal the front lower roller. I would have had to cut the upholstery or peel fabric away.

My improvised steps went as follows:

1) Remove phillips head screw securing trim piece at aft end of middle track
2) Mark, then remove 10mm bolt holding upper wheel assembly on the lower roller (2nd picture). Remove wheel assembly.
3) Coerce lower roller out of lower track (temporarily displacing weather sealing might give more room - 4th picture)
4) Slide door so upper roller lines up with notch in track. Remove upper front roller from track. You are now supporting the front of the door.
5) Walk door back until middle roller slides out of the back of the track. You are now holding our door.

3375

I got the door out pretty easily by myself. Getting it back it was harder. It was a pain to get the middle slider back into the track while supporting the door. Having a 2nd person would have helped. The lower wheel is adjustable, so mark it. I used a bright yellow paint marker, but since it is visible you may want to take a more calculated approach.

My bearings and sliders were all in okay shape - better after lubricating. My door still makes a horrible sound because the metal-on-metal lower wheel. The 'track' (flat sheet metal of van) is wearing and rusting. After some cleaning of debris, loose change, ball point pens, and a lot of rusty dusty stuff it's a bit better, but not great. I'm not sure if the main lower roller wheel is supposed to have plastic that is now gone. The door never sounded great, even when new.

If I had to do again, I would:
- not remove the door
- apply lubricant to bearing on middle slider.
- clean lower slider track.

Also, I recommend against giving your interior panels good yanks until you know what you're up against. For me, especially near the corners of (leaky) windows, the masonite likes to give way before the rusty steel clips. A little trim bar (carpenters tool) works great. There are a few good yanks, even some gentle ones, I wish I could take back.

[beoutside]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWmfs07SZAU

you tube link showing the three slider arms off so you can see how they roll. Also shows replacing some worn parts and how using a caliper is needed to ensure they will fit . I found this helpful in seeing what had worn on mine .
Donny



Thanks for your response. Toyota stopped making the part, so I have been trying to find it at salvage yards. I don't need the assembly, but it's missing all 3 rollers. The 2 side rollers just have a thin piece of black plastic, and the center lower roller is completely missing. Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

[Duckie]

I have a trick I use for the rear center sliders (these are the ones that typically go 1st).

Hi Tim -

How do you remove the slider assembly from the door to put the PEX on the pins that once held a roller?

Any info is great.

Thanks!

Chad Reich & Duckie the '87 van

[timsrv]

Pull the sliding door off the van. To do so pull off the interior door handle and remove the trim piece at the end of the door track (exterior body). Then you slide the door open past it's normal travel and it will come off. Note, the top slide rail has notch in it so the top slide wheel can drop through.......just need to find the right spot in the travel. I usually do this myself, but if it's your 1st time you might want an extra set of hands to help prevent accidental dropping and/or damage.

Once the door is off, it's easy to get access to the pins. If they're not worn completely off, the pex trick should work. Tim

[Duckie]

To do so pull off the interior door handle and remove the trim piece at the end of the door track (exterior body). Then you slide the door open past it's normal travel and it will come off. Tim

Thanks man! Could you clarify two quick questions?

Are you talking about the handle you would pull if you were sleeping inside the van to open the door?

What is the trim piece at the end of the door track, and where is it located?

Thanks!

-Chad

[timsrv]

It's the big interior handle that limits door travel. If you open the door all the way, it's the only thing that hits to keep the door from opening too far. Just go out and open the door to the limit and you'll see what I'm talking about. The other part is the trim piece that terminates the exterior center door track. It's a little chrome piece about 4 or 5 inches long with one Phillips head screw holding it on (farthest aft part of the exterior door track). Take out that screw and the piece will fall off. Once those 2 parts are removed you simply open the door and overextend until the center roller clears the track, then slide back & forth slowly until the top roller falls through the hole in the upper door track.

Edit: I forgot about the lower roller. Just remove that from the door before doing anything else. There's (3) 10mm bolts attaching it to the interior of the sliding door (bottom front triangular bracket).

[Duckie]

Hi Tim,

Got it! All 3 bearings were gone. I replaced the two bearings that touch the back of the slider with PEX and the larger middle bearing which touches the bottom of the slider with another hose (they didn't have PEX that size). I'll follow up to whether it works or not.

Thanks again!
-Chad & Duckie

[Dr.Roob]

I have a 1988 hi ace van. The sliding door has seen better days but was working fine until my 35kg staffyxridgeback tried to jump out while still tied to an anchor point in back of the van. She pushed the door back past it’s “ comfort zone” and I could only get it closed properly by removed the bottom roller/bracket. Can anyone give me some instructions on how to put it back on so it will work properly. I’m a fair to middling mechanic but my experience is mostly with motorcycles and kombi vans. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
cheers - doc 👍