A new transmission problem

[mahleek87]

Randomly started a jerk shift today between 1-2 gear. 2-3 is a pretty weak shift. Still works in drive and reverse. I wonder if maybe my shifter cable is stuck or misadjusted or something is messed up in the transmission? I checked the fluids everything seemed to be fine.

Here is the video. Hopefully it is an easy fix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0nnvwbVSug&feature=youtu.be

Let me know your thoughts.

[timsrv]

That's pretty drastic if you're actually chirping tires at low RPMs like that. Unfortunately transmission issues are not my specialty. We did just recently have a discussion about this HERE (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?1810-Harsh-shift-1st-to-2nd-after-ATF-change). Good luck. Tim

[mahleek87]

When I checked the fluid right after it started doing this, it was about half a quart low. Probably because that seal that is at the end of the transmission which connects to the driveshaft was still leaking intermittently here and there. I had that replaced by a Toyota Master Tech with 20+ years of experience, but he couldnt get it right and it looks like it costed me this transmission.

This leak was the type of leak where you could drive thousands of miles and it would be on full and then randomly one day it would pour out and catch you off guard.

Another thing I have learned is that these transmission are very sensitive so your oil has to always be FULL. Not a quart low, half a quart low or even a quarter of a quart low.

Im going to have my mechanic check this out today, but most likely its a gonner. What a disappointment.

Moral of the story if you have an automatic TV you must account for any type of leak and make sure that it is fixed!!!

[JPERL]

I know what it is. its happened in 3 of my Vans Replace the valve body gasket that seals the two halves of the valve body. There are four Teflon check balls that need to be replaced as well. The worn check balls(fluid flow control) and gasket allow more fluid to pass and the result is a harsh 1-2 shift. The rest of the gears don't exhibit this harsh shift. The check balls shrink and do not limit the flow of fluid in the passages of the valve body

[mahleek87]

Hi JPEARL

Where can I get those parts from and how hard is this job?

[JPERL]

As far as I know a Toyota Dealer is where you buy the parts . And definitely have a transmission shop do the work. Valve body is very complex. The transmission must be thoroughly cleaned on the exterior because the slightest molecule of debris in a valve body passage or any where else inside the trans will cause issues or a non-working transmission. The transmission by design leaves virtually no tolerance for a misstep

if Toyota does not have it you may source the parts from ASIN-Warner directly . You should have an A44DL transmission

[mahleek87]

I went to the toyota dealership today and looked up the price for those gaskets and balls in the transmission. Wasn't too expensive, seemed like the total was around $40-50. Since my mechanic is on limited time and not experienced with opening up auto transmissions I went ahead and bought the ones they sell on ebay that are rebuilt for a great price. I figured its a better route then paying a shop around here atleast $800 to fix this issue. Plus the ones on ebay can be had for $400 + shipping.

I may try using the lucas stuff to see if i can squeeze some more mileage out of this one before swapping the new(rebuilt) one in.

[JPERL]

I bought a "refurbished transmission" off ebay that lasted 1500 miles never again

Did not mean to scare you off with the complexity of this unit

My mechanic only charged me $200 (3 hours). Once you remove the pan, the valve body is right there.

The valve body comes out easy you just have to make sure you keep track of where the parts go and keep things very clean. For example the 30 plus bolts that secure the valve body are specific to the holes they go in. In other words you are dealing with 30 bolts each with different lengths and thread type

[mahleek87]

I bought this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=321141497676&ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1120 I figured since he had 100% good reputation on ebay the products had to be good. After all if someone had a complaint im sure they would mention it in the reviews. I am a little worried now that you told me about your experience buying an ebay trans. The price is certainly too good to be true. How long ago did you buy it? The area that I live in, outskirts of Washington Dc is all about the $. I already talked to two transmission shops/guys they wanted to rebuild the whole thing for $1600.00 I can't afford that much right now. Especially since i bought the other van, i am driving that now a days while my original one sits. The only way i could get it fixed is if my mechanic tried to do it. Ofcourse this would be the first time he would ever be attempting a transmission repair in his career. Hes a really good mechanic, just doesnt know anything about auto transmission. Hes not alone, alot of people dont know about them and just say to replace them with a good enough used one.

[JPERL]

I went to the toyota dealership today and looked up the price for those gaskets and balls in the transmission. Wasn't too expensive, seemed like the total was around $40-50. Since my mechanic is on limited time and not experienced with opening up auto transmissions I went ahead and bought the ones they sell on ebay that are rebuilt for a great price. I figured its a better route then paying a shop around here atleast $800 to fix this issue. Plus the ones on ebay can be had for $400 + shipping.

I may try using the lucas stuff to see if i can squeeze some more mileage out of this one before swapping the new(rebuilt) one in.

Lucas in this case would not soften the shift action because with the check ball worn there is to much fluid actuating the clutch pack. The check balls ensure a metered amount of fluid is acting on the clutch pack. With the check ball worn to much fluid is entering the clutch pack causing a harsh shift

Lucas is really to keep the transmission from slipping due to worn clutch packs by increasing the thickness or viscosity of the fluid to fill in the gaps between the steel discs and the clutch lining discs of the worn parts.

Lucas in this case may make the problem worse.

Try putting the transmission in the "2" position at a stop sign and see if the 1-2 shift is much softer than when in the "D" or drive ;position This worked for me it still was a little harsh but better. After the trans shifted from L to 2 I then manually put the transmission in D for the higher speeds.

Doing this redirects the flow of fluid in the valve body into different passages because the passages that would normally come into play in the D position are locked out by the manual valve in the valve body

[JPERL]

What is strange is I got my transmission from a different vendor but the pictures on the website you went to were identical to the pictures on this other website where I got mine 8 months ago. The seller does not exist anymore where I got mine. I only know this because I downloaded the pictures when I got mine

[mahleek87]

Try putting the transmission in the "2" position at a stop sign and see if the 1-2 shift is much softer than when in the "D" or drive ;position This worked for me it still was a little harsh but better. After the trans shifted from L to 2 I then manually put the transmission in D for the higher speeds.

Doing this redirects the flow of fluid in the valve body into different passages because the passages that would normally come into play in the D position are locked out by the manual valve in the valve body



I already tried doing this. It was the same if not a little harsher. Could this mean we dont exhibit the same problem?


Do you remember the Ebay User ID or location where you ordered the trans from? You kinda got me worried. :no:

[JPERL]

I already tried doing this. It was the same if not a little harsher. Could this mean we dont exhibit the same problem?


Do you remember the Ebay User ID or location where you ordered the trans from? You kinda got me worried. :no:

The Ebay ID I cannot find because it does not exist anymore

I have driven these Vans since 1986. the 1-2 Harsh Shift is definitely a check ball issue. A friend of mine Don who recently passed was a transmission mechanic at toyota dealers from 1977 to 1991. I spent many hours getting my education from him when he left Toyota and worked for himself.

The A40 Series of trannys has this issue

[mahleek87]

I see.


Well what did you end up doing with the eBay transmission ? Did you return it and get $ back?

By the way I have noticed that with the hard shift starting from 1-2. The shift from 2-3 has become a lot weaker.

[JPERL]

I see.


Well what did you end up doing with the eBay transmission ? Did you return it and get $ back?

By the way I have noticed that with the hard shift starting from 1-2. The shift from 2-3 has become a lot weaker.

My mechanic replaced the oil pump and I sold it at a loss of 100 bucks to one of his other customers who had a van

As long the 2-3 shift is not slipping or is not taking more than a couple seconds to engage and operation is smooth I would not worry.

[mahleek87]

Your really lucky you knew someone who could work on transmissions. Anyone I try to find is too expensive and most people dont know anything.

[madcow41]

I hear u loud and clear I just had to get my buddy to rebuild my tranny and the parts were expensive but I use my van for everything so I had to do it good thing is once u do a full rebuild hopefully the tranny will last u forever (hopefully) mine lasted 171989 original miles so im going for 300,000 this time (hopefully)

[mahleek87]

JPERL,

After reading the repair manual for quite some time I am a little confused. It seems like there are 4 check balls in the lower valve body and 4 check balls in the upper valve body.


1510
In this picture there are two gaskets and a plate inbetween the lower and upper valve body. Are these the two gaskets that you said need to be replaced?


1511

In this picture you can see 4 check balls and one of them out of the 4 is apparently a larger check ball. This is in the lower valve body. Are these the ones that need to be replaced?



1512

Then here is the upper valve body which also has 4 check balls. 3 are rubber and 1 is steel apparently.

1513

As you can see in the diagrams it looks like there are a total of 8 check balls. 4 in the lower valve body and 4 in the upper valve body.

Which ones need to be replaced? Upper or Lower?

I am in a dilemma and cant come up with a decision. I have already received the ebay reman trans that I ordered but I would like to keep it as a back up since I have two vans now I figure I can gamble with that later. Plus since it comes with no warranty and JPERL mentioned his failed after 1500 miles, id like to gamble with that whole scenario later. My goal is to get the one inside my van working at the best price possible.

I put up a craigslist ad in my area looking for a transmission expert and got 3-4 different responses saying it was a "clutch slave" or the transmission just needs adjustment. Clearly that idea is not going to work of finding someone on craigslist because they all say different things.

Any shop is going to charge more then $1500

My mechanic is good at doing things and has alot of experience. I could trust him to take apart the trans and be able to put everything back together but then again hes not an transmission expert. I figure if the parts are only $40 bucks then we could take a shot at it. So please let me know which valve body check balls need to be replaced upper or lower, and about the gaskets.

Again the issue is a hard shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear strong enough to chirp the tires.

[JPERL]

The gaskets need to be replaced between the valve body and the rubber or Teflon check balls should be replaced. The steel one does not need replacing.

Any shop Quoting $1500 is quoting a complete soft part overhaul such as seals gaskets o rings clutch lining plates etc and usually a torque converter for that price.

Your repair does not require removing the transmission as it is an on vehicle repair so the labor is minimal. It should cost no more than $350

You could remove the valve body (just make note of which bolts were removed from where the manual explains how to make a template to do this) yourself and take it to a transmission shop with the parts from Toyota and ask them to repair the valve body. THat should not be more than 2 hours labor for a qualified shop

[mahleek87]

There are 8 check balls. 4 in upper valve body and 4 in lower. That is according to the diagram. Which ones need to be replaced? The 4 in the lower or upper ? That is my question and yes I hope it was that easy. All the shops around here look for easy jobs and charge a lot of $ for those easy jobs.

[JPERL]

replace all rubber check balls

[skibum]

I had to drop my valve body to work on kick-down cable. I wouldn't be too worried about diving in and replacing check balls and gaskets. Here's a link to my thread dealing with this. Read thread (and manual) regarding removal process and you'll keep the parts in place until they are on the bench. this is not a task that requires extensive skills, so if you are comfortable with basic mechanic work, it should be doable.

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?563-AT-slipping-after-6-months-sitting

[mahleek87]

Thanks for the insight Skibum.

I checked my transmission cable, it retracts just fine. I am waiting for my mechanic to get back to me regarding taking the job on. I think he will do it but it may take him a few weeks since sunday is his only day off that he can do it. (Side Job)

[skibum]

Hey Mahleek87,

So, I linked to my thread, more for the description of the "tool" that you have to make to keep the springs and balls in place, in case you wanted to tackle the job, yourself. The manual describes how to make it, and I embellished a little after using the "tool", by recommending beveling the leading edge so you get under the spring(s), rather than into one of the coils. By doing this, you will see where everything belongs, before you disassemble.

If you are just going to remove and replace the balls, along with cleaning out the valve body, you should be able to do that, even if you are only moderately mechanical. If I remember right, I ended up dumping the balls out of my valve body, when I was working on my cable issue. I was able to get them back in the proper locations by looking at the drawings in the manual. It is very obvious where the balls go, particularly if you follow the pictures that you posted (Pg. 2, item 22 and Pg. 4, item 11).

Like JPERL said, keep it clean!

Good luck!

[mahleek87]

I just got all the parts for the job in yesterday. Hopefully it will work out for me. I got a total of 6 rubber check balls. 4 smaller ones and 2 larger ones.

Apparently 2 Larger ones and 1 small one belong in the lower valve body while the other 3 smaller ones belong in the upper valve body.


Please let me know if I am missing something for the job as the diagram at the dealer was confusing to me.

1539
1540154115421543

[skibum]

mahleek87,

Just refer back to the repair manual pages that you posted earlier. It looks like the same ones that I referred to when doing my repair. Those drawings indicated where the balls go and using that information I was able to get the balls back in place and the tranny working properly.

[timsrv]

I was able to get the balls back in place and the tranny working properly.

This reminds me of a cop show that refers to cross-dressers as trannys. That being said, other parallels regarding your statement are very disturbing :doh: :rol: :redface:

[skibum]

As long as the tranny is working properly, who I am to say? And many of us know the importance of having our balls in the right place! :LOL2:

[mahleek87]

I finally got my 86 Van up and running after about 5 months of not driving it. I purchased a remanufactured transmission from ebay and so far I have put over 300 miles on it. It is working just fine. The 2-3 shift is really soft but its quicker then the one I had before.

Originally I was going to try to fix my transmission with replacing the check balls etc. No one wanted to do it for cheap. Everyone I spoke with wanted to do a full rebuild or nothing at all. This was the cheaper route. I will keep you all updated on how it holds up.

Here is the video of me driving through the gears etc. Transmission came in clean, no leaks. All the seals/gaskets were installed properly.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxTSLpJFyyM


Post your thoughts

[Anthony]

I'm having issues with my automatic transmission.
I start out in (2) and when I get up to 30 mph I move the shifter to D.
Starting out you can feel a jerk from first gear to second gear.
Getting up to 30mph it won't shift up unless I move it to drive( D ).
Now leaving it into drive (D) after stopping it will not shift but it will drive forward only 10mph
I have to down shift it to (2) to get it back in gear

It drives fine this way but I would like to get this fixed.
I've been quoted $1,999-$2,600 for full rebuild

As I'm saving money I'm reading all these posts about transmission problems

Did you have some one install the transmission for you after buying it off Ebay? If so how much? If not do you know where I can find a guide to install the transmission?

Any help would be great

I'm thinking I might buy one of those transmission off Ebay

Would changing out the balls and gasket on my transmission solve my issue?

Glad to see you are back on the road.

Oh...I have a 1987 4x4 Automatic Toyota Van... Would this transmission be the replacement ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321141497676?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

[mahleek87]

I bought this A45DL for my 86 Toyota Van from ebay. I got it specifically from this seller transparts734.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-88-Toyota-Van-Automatic-Transmission-A-T-Model-A44DL-2-2L-/321141497676?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac5865f4c&vxp=mtr


I think with shipping and everything it was in between $450-500 I dont remember. I gave him an offer and he accepted it.

I had my mechanic install it for $300.00

So all together I got a completely re manufactured transmission installed in my van for approx $800 total versus spending $1500+ to rebuild it.

I had a bad 1-2 gear jerk, if you look at the beginning of this thread you will see the video that I posted of my issue that I was having.


So far I have driven my van only 300 miles and everything is good. I currently have stopped driving it because I am having some type of overheating issue and I have coolant leaks and want to trace them all before I start driving hard again.

[Anthony]

I saw your video.. Thanks for your info.
I contacted that Ebay seller. He/she told me I need A/T #35000-28190 transmission for my 1987 automatic 4x4 toyota van.

So my question to others here is ..

Do you think if I changed out the balls and rubber that it would take care of my transmission issue?

I can't find that transmission anywhere. So, I think I might have to rebuild it but not totally sure.

[vanalogs]

Your really lucky you knew someone who could work on transmissions. Anyone I try to find is too expensive and most people dont know anything.


Trying to figure out what my 85 Toyota van with a 3Y engine has for an automatic transmission. Will this work? A44DL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221813283268...witem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221813283268?item=221813283268&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)

[timsrv]

I was able to quickly find references to this issue by simply searching term "A44DL". Here's a quote from another thread:


A44DL is a 4 speed auto transmission used in the 2WD van from 84 - 86. A45DL is pretty much the exact transmission (except used in 87 - 89 2WD vans). There may be slight internal differences, but no change in bell housing, splines, or anything else that would affect interchange (even the gear ratios are the same). So as far as I'm concerned, other than age, they are the same transmission. The reason I said the seller might be a little confused is because he could be listing for 84-89 Toyota vans (along with some other makes & models). Of course his very limited application list is good for those of us that know about this (as other potential buyers may not be able to find his listings). He has another listing for "87-88 Toyota Van Automatic Transmission, A/T Model A44DL, 2.2L" (http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-88-Toyota-Van-Automatic-Transmission-A-T-Model-A44DL-2-2L-/321141497676?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac5865f4c) (he's asking a little more $$$ for that one). If it wasn't for the cost of shipping (and me not wanting to store), I would have bought at least one of these a long time ago. I'm a little surprised nobody else has. Tim

There's no way to say this without sounding roflroflroflroflrofly, so I'll just say it.......please search the forum before posting and please don't ask the same question in multiple posts :yes:. Nothing personal, it has to do with clutter & site organization. I'm going to delete those duplicate posts :wave2:. Tim

[vanalogs]

No problem sorry about the multiple posts.


I was able to quickly find references to this issue by simply searching term "A44DL". Here's a quote from another thread:



There's no way to say this without sounding roflroflroflroflrofly, so I'll just say it.......please search the forum before posting and please don't ask the same question in multiple posts :yes:. Nothing personal, it has to do with clutter & site organization. I'm going to delete those duplicate posts :wave2:. Tim

[timsrv]

No problem, just trying to reduce clutter (it adds up after a while). BTW, we appreciate you being part of TVT and encourage posting (when and where appropriate). Tim :thmbup:

[vanalogs]

No problem, just trying to reduce clutter (it adds up after a while). BTW, we appreciate you being part of TVT and encourage posting (when and where appropriate). Tim :thmbup:



Im going to pull the trigger on this eBay transmission and update the thread

[Van Damn It]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221813283268?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&autorefresh=true


I had some initial concerns about using this transmission with my 85 Cargo.


When I inquired Transparts734 about compatibility with my 85 they requested my VIN# and replied with the following:


"Your vehicle needs A/T #35010-28071-84. Unfortunetly, we don't have this part number available as we discontinued producing several years ago.
Thank you for your inquiry.


Regards,
Transparts734"


The Ebay listing was for AT #35010-28230-84 ... bummer


I've since put an offer on one given timsrv's post on the interchange of these transmissions between van years. A very reputable local transmission shop wanted over 2K to just rebuild my transmission (I bring the removed transmission to them).


I think I'll give this Ebay tranny a try.

[vanalogs]

So I have purchased a rebuilt transmission from transparts734 off of eBay a couple weeks ago. Transmission is put in. They come with fluid in them. Once installed started up and shifted into gear... nothing. The transmission just slipped around a ton so I added som lucas additive and another couple quarts of transmission fluid. Now when I shift the transmission into gear I get a chirp and immediate stall . Almost as if I were to let a clutch out too fast on a manual transmission. Any idea of what I can do? I fell like the torque converter is locking up? Is the transmission bad?

[20valvevanwagon]

Did you install the kickdown cable correctly? When I did my trans swap I had an issue where it didn't move after putting it in gear and felt like the T/C was slipping. I adjusted the cable and now works fine. Also after adding the extra fluid did you check to see if it was at the right level? I'm not an automatic transmission guru I just recently swapped out my auto trans myself, just giving you some things to check out. Good luck! I hope its something simple!!!

[vanalogs]

Did you install the kickdown cable correctly? When I did my trans swap I had an issue where it didn't move after putting it in gear and felt like the T/C was slipping. I adjusted the cable and now works fine. Also after adding the extra fluid did you check to see if it was at the right level? I'm not an automatic transmission guru I just recently swapped out my auto trans myself, just giving you some things to check out. Good luck! I hope its something simple!!!


Yea I've tried the cable a few different ways nothing changes. I haven't had time to add even more fluid than I already have (extra 3 quarts). How much extra do you think I should try and add? does anyone know how much fluid the automatic transmission holds including the torque converter?

This is the link I bought my transmission from

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221813283268?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[originalkwyjibo]

Total capacity is 6.9 quarts. You need to check the fluid level with the dipstick. It's not likely it was shipped with any significant amount of fluid in it. Some auto trannies won't work right when just one quart low. Pull the dipstick with the engine off and see if it shows at all. If not, then add fluid until you just get some on the dipstick. Now start it and fill it to the proper level. You should also shift it through all gears as well to get the fluid pumped through all the internal passages. If you keep trying to run it with low fluid you may damage it. Although you've likely voided your warranty when you poured in the Lucas additive.

[vanalogs]

Total capacity is 6.9 quarts. You need to check the fluid level with the dipstick. It's not likely it was shipped with any significant amount of fluid in it. Some auto trannies won't work right when just one quart low. Pull the dipstick with the engine off and see if it shows at all. If not, then add fluid until you just get some on the dipstick. Now start it and fill it to the proper level. You should also shift it through all gears as well to vet the fluid pumped through all the internal passages. If you keep trying to run it with low fluid you may damage it. Although you've likely voided your warranty when you poured in the Lucas additive.

I can't shift through the gears because as soon as I put it in drive the van jumps forward. Ill add more fluid tomorrow and see how it pans out. What happens if I overflow the transmission with too much fluid?

[originalkwyjibo]

With the engine off and the van on level ground, pour in fluid one pint at a time checking with the dipstick between each pint until it shows on the dipstick. Next start the engine and check the fluid level again. Again, pour in a pint at a time until it is near the correct level. Now try shifting through all the gears. If successful, check the fluid level again adding if necessary. Now take a test drive and get it warmed up to operating temperature. Check the fluid again topping it up if necessary. Be aware that residual fluid in the dipstick tube from filling can make it difficult to get an accurrate reading. It's a good idea to run the dipstick up and down a few times and then check the level at least twice before determining you've got a correct reading.

[timsrv]

Yeah, IMO Lucas was a bad idea. Auto transmissions don't come full & trying to run it empty can damage it. Trying to run it over filled can damage it too. When it comes to proper servicing of the transmission, use Dexron III or something that says it's compatible with Dexron II or III. In achieving the proper level, here's a quote from another thread:


Yes, it's true that getting a good reading can be troublesome. The fluid is thin (hard to see) and false readings are hard to avoid. I normally don't use the "cold" mark unless it's the initial servicing of an empty transmission (just to get "in the zone"). After vehicle has been warmed up and driven fluid level is adjusted to the "hot" mark. Whenever fluid is added or removed it's a good idea to shift through the gears then back to park. When checking level ALWAYS check both sides of the dip stick. If one side shows lower than the other, put more faith in the low side. Don't trust an individual reading. Wait until you get 3 consistent readings before you trust it. Holding the dipstick up to a good light helps.

I've learned from experience that while changing transmission fluid it saves time to measure what comes out, then put the same amount back in. I use a funnel and pour my drain pan into a gallon jug, then I use an identical (clean) jug and fill to the same level using new fluid. The transmission is then serviced from this jug. After a couple of quarts I start the engine, shift through the gears, then finish servicing SLOWLY with the engine running. Assuming the transmission fluid level was correct before, it will be correct again (no fussing around with incremental adding/subtracting of fluid). Tim

[vanalogs]

I emptied about 7 quarts out of fluid out of the transmission and filled it back up. Still nothing. It almost as if "the automatic clutch" doesn't work as soon as its put into gear the van jumps forward and stalls. If you give it gas while putting it in gear you can drive the van normally and it shifts through the gears it just shifts really hard and kicks into gear thorough all the gears. Anyone have any clue? Ive tried the kick down cable or throttle cable on the engine side adjusting the tension on it doesn't really do anything for me. No noticeable difference.

[timsrv]

If you got 7 quarts out of it then it was excessively overfilled. The most you should have been able to get out is about 3 quarts. This is because fluid gets trapped in the torque converter and other parts. How much fluid did you put back in? I'm not saying you don't have another issue, just want to be sure the fluid level is correct before condemning the transmission. Tim

[vanalogs]

If you got 7 quarts out of it then it was excessively overfilled. The most you should have been able to get out is about 3 quarts. This is because fluid gets trapped in the torque converter and other parts. How much fluid did you put back in? I'm not saying you don't have another issue, just want to be sure the fluid level is correct before condemning the transmission. Tim

If Im not able to run the van through the gears though wouldn't the fluid not be able to get into the torque converter?

[timsrv]

Typically when the transmission is low or empty it will not engage (slips), so shifting through the gears is not an issue. Assuming your rpm's are correct (around 750) it should not engage enough to make it lurch and stall (even after it's full). I don't think it should do that even if it's over filled (but since I've never over serviced an automatic transmission, I don't know that for sure). If it still lurches/stalls after the transmission is properly serviced, I'm not sure what the cause would be, but I would strongly suspect a failed or defective torque converter. Tim

PS: When filling the transmission it should be running and in park. I usually cycle through the gears just for good measure, but don't think it's required.

[vanalogs]

Typically when the transmission is low or empty it will not engage (slips), so shifting through the gears is not an issue. Assuming your rpm's are correct (around 750) it should not engage enough to make it lurch and stall (even after it's full). I don't think it should do that even if it's over filled (but since I've never over serviced an automatic transmission, I don't know that for sure). If it still lurches/stalls after the transmission is properly serviced, I'm not sure what the cause would be, but I would strongly suspect a failed or defective torque converter. Tim

PS: When filling the transmission it should be running and in park. I usually cycle through the gears just for good measure, but don't think it's required.


Well Im having a mechanic look at it tomorrow. As far as I know then when the transmission was put in it had the correct amount of fluid because I added about 4 quarts and then ended up draining out 7 quarts now there is 3 in it. I must have gotten a bad transmission or something because I haven't even driven the van enough to even damage it in the first place. Ill keep an update as of tomorrow

[timsrv]

Did the new transmission come with a torque converter or are you using your old one?

[vanalogs]

Did the new transmission come with a torque converter or are you using your old one?

It came with a new torque converter.

[timsrv]

Then based on what you have reported it sounds to me like you received a defective eBay item :anger:.