Power Steering Pressure Line Fix

[Dogfish]

I recently bought an '88 2WD LE Auto, and soon discovered a leak in the power steering high pressure line. The general area was easy to spot, on the rubber hose near the banjo connector to the pump, but somewhere under the extra insulation on the hose. It gushed pink froth from the top of the insulation when you turned the wheels. I never had a high pressure line leak before and was surprised... this van only has 125k on it.
86
Unfortunately, I didn't think about taking pictures until the job was almost done. The Toyota diagram will have to do as the before pic. It shows the pump end of the line as hose that is crimped to the metal line and not easily replaced. The other end of the line has an easily replaceable hose with fittings.
As I sometimes do, I took it to a reputable shop that I deal with. It is a national franchise and offers freebie service checks. I have spent little to no money with them in the years that I have been dealing with them and they have always gone over and above to tighten a clamp or point out a leak to me a no charge. I always tell them that next time I'll spend some money with them next time.
They found a replacement line for me from Toyota and quoted me over $500 for the job. I need to find the quote but I think it was $300+ for the line and $200+ for the labor.

89

I ended up removing the line myself and taking it to a shop that specializes in hydraulic lines. There are a couple of things wrong with the above pic. The mounting clips are all above the line itself. In reality they need to be turned 180 degrees and point "down" for mounting. The second problem is that when the shop added the extra steel of the crimps and unions I gained rigidity and lost the flexibility of the rubber hose that was replaced. The line as it was in the above pic was impossible to install. I had to take it back to the shop, have them cut more tube from the banjo fitting end and re-braze.

88

This is the pic of the line after it was shortened and re-brazed. Note the connector is almost up to the curve in the line now. One problem since the length was changed was that the hose no longer fits back in the retainer clip. It is hard to see in the pic but it doesn't touch anywhere along the frame. The metal ferrule on the hose likewise doesn't touch the lower radiator hose, but they are both something I will check after driving it awhile.

If I were to do it over, I would go find a cheaper off the shelf hose that would fit as close to perfect as possible. I would then cut the line (this was the easiest way to remove it) and clearly mark where the brazing should be done and not leave so much to the "experts" to decide.

A few other pics:

84

A closer view of the new hose, crimping, unions and brazing. All in all they did a good job.

87

A closer view of the connection to the line.

85

A closer view of the banjo end... before it was re-sized.

83

A closer view of the other end of the line. This end already has an easily replaceable hose, and as per Murphy, that's why it didn't fail.

I did this job in a driveway... no lift. I did not pull the radiator or the transmission cooler. I did remove the lower mount screws of the cooler and pull it forward a little. It gets wedged on the mounts and gives you enough room. I did cut the line to make it easier to remove. It was going to be cut anyway.

This was an exercise in patience and things that weren't going well one day went a lot easier the next day.

[timsrv]

That's awesome Dogfish!!! Thank you for posting this! Very nice write up and great pics! I will be doing this same job on my cargo van soon. I just blew the headgasket, and I will tackle this job while the van is opened up for that job. I'll post some pics and comments here when I do the job. Being able to see this line out in the open (ahead of time) helps me plan for it. Thank you!!! :wave2: Tim

[Dogfish]

Thanks Tim

Keep in mind that there are 2 rubber hoses on the high pressure line. If your leak is under the driver's seat then it is the same problem that I had and the hose is not easily replaced. If it is forward, after the line is heading back towards the steering gear, that line already has a union at one end and threads into the gear box at the other.

If it is the forward line, worst case you may have to remove some of the air intake ducting. I removed it when I dropped the whole line, but it may not be necessary.

I'ts a good time to clean the duct and silicone it anyway. I meant to tie wrap some nylon screen or a Scotch Brite on the end but didn't.

-Jim

[timsrv]

Mine has the same problem as yours (I'm sitting on the leak). And this is part of the reason I've been procrastinating :dizzy:. I think it will be more exposed when I have my head removed and I'll figure something out then. Your pics really shed some light on things. Thanks. Tim

[beubanks]

I've got the same thing going on.....and currently wanting to fix this in route to Washington state from east coast :)...

however, is this not the line: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1987/toyota/van/steering/power_steering_pressure_hose.html


?

I also found it at a toyota parts site....it seems like it covers the part I have a leak at (I'm sitting on it, near the pump), but doesn't include the gearbox side hose...

If you guys could let me know your thoughts I'd appreciate it... I don't have time to have the existing part rebuilt, and would love if I could drop something new/remanufactured in on the road...

-Bryan

[timsrv]

It's a lot easier, cheaper, and better to just cut the metal line at the frame, then take the pump side of it (with the flex hose) down to your local hydraulic hose shop. They will set you up with quality fittings and hose to replace the leaky part. They make compression fittings for every size tubing (including ours) and that means no welding or brazing.............unless of course you want to. Here's some pics I took while doing the job:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2328.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2329.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2330.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2331.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2335.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2336.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2337.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2338.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2339.jpg

[beubanks]

ok thanks for this. I'm in montreal, and will be staying put in Leavenworth, WA. and Tri-Cities area for most of september. Perhaps I can do this then, I think it's fine to drive on for another couple of weeks.

To clarify....when you say "cut the metal line at the frame" is that literally cut the metal pipe? and is that the point detailed in your last photo? The nuts look new on both ends of that coupling..but not sure what that looks like there right now...

I guess what I'm asking is do I need to remove the whole line down to the gearbox hose connection? Sorry, I'm not too familiar with this part of the vehicle.

thanks,
bryan

[beubanks]

actually, I see from earlier photos in this thread that there is a nut connection after the flexible hose... okay..how much fluid is going to dump out of this point (all of it?)...

thanks,
b

[timsrv]

Yes, cut it right where the small diameter steel line ends and the flex line begins. I actually used a sawzall because I wanted to save as much steel line as possible. Of course a sawzall will leave burrs and get some grit in the line. Some fluid will leak out but this is good in a way as it will carry some of the grit from the cut out with it. After it quit dripping I carefully deburred the line, then I used Q-tips to drag out the junk that was left inside. I left the long steel line installed when I replaced the flex hose part. The steel part of the line is pretty embedded so it saved a bit of time. I took the banjo end off the pump and modified that end on the bench. I went ahead and got an extra hose and set of adapters so I could also do my 4wd van. There's other ways to do this (as you can see from dogfish's post), but this way works well & doesn't require welding or complete line removal. To save the hydraulic guy the time you may want to print these pics and take to him along with the old flex hose (after you cut it off) for length reasons. Here is a picture of everything you'll need to do the job. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2508.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2510.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2509.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_2511.jpg

[foreverly]

822

Here is a photo of my repair. It is a Dogfish / Tim hybrid.

I didn't remove the banjo fitting because the PO owner had just had the P/S pump put in & I didn't want to disturb it.

I cut the bottom of the hose with a $6 hacksaw from the hardware store & I cut the top with one of those pipe cutters that spin around. I had to use my dremel with grinder/sander tip to clean the burns & outside of the pipe. This was necessary to get the compression fittings all the way onto the pipe.

You can see that I cut the top of the hose where Dogfish made his repair because it was right in my face & I could cut the pipe without harm to other hoses & electrical wires. To cut the hose where Tim did I would have had to remove the banjo fitting.

After one week my hose hasn't leaked a drop but it has made my p/s pump a little noisier. I believe its either because I strained the top compression fitting getting it into that tight spot or because the hydraulics shop used a 9.8mm hose. I didn't cut open the original hose but I assume it was at least 10mm inside... Perhaps those two little things combined create enough restriction for the pump to complain. I might just try to remove the banjo & loosen & retighten the compression fitting to see if that helps with the noise. Maybe a slightly longer or shorter hose would help too...

But in the end I'll take a little noise over a leaky hose.

If I were to make the repair again I think I would just remove the banjo fitting & cut the pipe right at the hose just like Tim did.

Now to fix my leaky rack...

:sfr:

[chrismael]

Well, I realize this thread is a year old, but i use this whole site as a reference tool, so I suppose it doesn't matter.

I just discovered this leak, after repairing many other hose repairs. I was pretty gung ho to cut as directed, but called around for a local hydro shop. The guy at Napa was friendly, but started jumping up and down about DOT etc... Apparently they have a rebuilder for these in Spokane, but first, I'm thinking about going sans PS for a while. I figure, I'll drain the system and see how much resistance I get. All these P.S. issues have me contemplating pulling it all out as most of my driving is Highway.

So, question... has anyone here gutted the entire PS? I drove a 91 toyota pu for years without it (stock), but I figure it had a better M/A than I would in this situation.

Thanks, chris

[chrismael]

And done... I'm gonna run it drained and without the belt for a while. Even with the bigger tire / winter tread, it doesn't seem bad at all. I am a little concerned whether this may stress the steering assembly a bit too much. I'm also hoping for a little better gpm.... Given the history of pump complaints/fixes, I'm guessing some other folks are running without P/S.

P/S, less is more:wnk:
chris

[timsrv]

Just keep in mind these vans have a weak bevel gear (ahead of the rack) & stress on this will be amplified greatly. That being said, I drove my van for almost 2 years without power steering & didn't have any issues. Tim

[chrismael]

Thanks Tim,

Good to know. I suppose I'll take it easy and when I have time and run across a good shop, I'll fix it proper.

[mahleek87]

I recently had the high pressure power steering line replaced in my 86 Toyota Van. The first thing I tried was to contact Toyota to see if this part was still available and obviously it wasnt, so I went on to this thread to see that other members had gotten this line made at a shop that specializes in hydraulic lines. So my mechanic contacted a shop that he knew that made these and they made one for my van and charged $212.00 for it. Does that seem reasonable? My mechanic charged me $90 to install it. I ended up pay a little over $300 to fix this stupid leak. When they told me the price I went along with it because I just wanted to get it fixed.

My 89 van has the same problem and is currently leaking from the same line. I was looking on ebay and found this and was wondering if it would work. I know the 89 van has a slightly different connection to the power steering pump where the H/P line connects. I wonder if it would make a difference.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steering-Pressure-Line-Hose-Assembly-Pressure-Line-Assembly-fits-1986-Van-/141228588346?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e1e13d3a&vxp=mtr

Do you think this is legit? I would much rather pay $34 then $212

[timsrv]

Mahleek, I don't know about different grades/qualities of line and fittings, but the ones I got are far above automotive specs regarding abrasion resistance, pressure, etc. It's been a couple years since I purchased mine, but at the time it cost me $49.82. Since I purchased 2 sets of hoses/fittings my total came to $99.64. This included the line & fittings I previously posted in this thread along with a section of the 5/8" ID hose long enough to replace the return line that goes from the reservoir to the pump (long enough to do 2 vans). Perhaps the line & fittings you got are of a higher quality, but I can't imagine needing anything better than what I put on mine. The $90 for the install sounds fair, but it's hard for me to imagine a hydraulic shop charging that much for the hoses & fittings. I'm guessing your mechanic made some extra $$$ as a middle man. Tim

[mahleek87]

For the record...

I purchased this high pressure line from ebay and had it installed 3 days ago in my 89 van with a reman power steering pump from BBB industries. Edelman makes it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steering-Pressure-Hose-OE-Omega-Hose-83773-fits-1986-Toyota-Van-/361180167446?vxp=mtr

It only cost $48 including shipping and after 3 days of hard driving 300miles + it works like a charm and there are no leaks at all. Steering is very smooth too.


Much better then the $212 I spent a few months ago to have this built and replaced in my 86 Van. :thmbup:

[timsrv]

What did your mechanic charge to install that one?

[mahleek87]

He gave me a good price since this time it was a side job

I got the power steering pump and line installed for a total of $120.


Last time his boss got involved because it was his bosses connect who knew the shop that could make the line. Also the van sat in his shop for one day because they had to remove the old line to make a copy of it.

[Wonderwagon]

I just changed my power steering pump in my 1989 4wd today, as it was leaking, but once I started up the van again, the remanufactured pump now caused the pressure hose to start gushing fluid.
Sigh.
Fortunately, I found one on eBay for $29 including shipping!!! :dance2:
It's a slightly different part number than the one Mahleek linked to, as that one didn't look like it had the right bend at the banjo fitting. There's one more at that price on eBay, somebody grab it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelmann-91594-Power-Steering-Pressure-Hose-/171493762662?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27edd32666&vxp=mtr

Just search for "Power Steering 91594" if it's gone. It was a bit hard to find since nothing is listed for 1989 vans, but it looks correct in the picture.

[mahleek87]

Ive always wondered why the connections on the 89 vans to the pump is a little curved outwards while the 86 is a direct curve in. Maybe Tim or someone else can chime in on this? Regardless it still worked out fine. My mechanic pointed it out immediately once he removed the line and showed me that it was different. I told him it will still work out because this is the way it is on the 86 van. He said ok and as he was installing it, it was fine.

But lucky you Wonderwagon, you got a better deal then me!

[timsrv]

Nice hearing from you again Wonderwagon :). They are different because Toyota switched to the Banjo fitting for the 88 - 89 models. Why did they switch? Not sure, but I suspect it was due to leak problems with the inverted flare fitting. Is the Banjo better? IMO, yes. The soft copper crush washers make it easier to seal. With steel on steel used with the inverted flare, if there's any imperfections, it's hard tightening enough to make a seal. The reason for the extra bend at the pump end (88 - 89) is because Banjo fittings come in from the side, where-as inverted flare comes in straight-on. As long as you have the pump adapter piece from the year van the hose is for you can use either hose. Tim

[Wonderwagon]

I put the new power steering line in today. It was made for a 2wd, but it still goes on the 4wd, and some zip ties keep it from rattling around. It doesn't leak!:thmbup:

However, the remanufactured power steering pump I put in make a horrible high-pitched scream when over 2500 rpms. Guess they forgot to change a bearing in it or something.
...And my radiator I got recored 5 years ago is dripping from where the rows meet the tank on the lower driver's side and has rust all over. Time to see if Toyota really has restocked 4wd radiators.

So in one month I will have replaced: Battery, alternator, power steering pump twice, pressure line, radiator and hoses. :(:
Oh well, that should keep her going for awhile longer. :)

I think I'd like to replace the brake hoses and cylinders later this year, as they're still originals in the rear.

[mahleek87]

I feel your pain WW, I had my mechanic do my power steering pump on my 86 van 3 times. First time I bought a re seal kit from ebay. Everything worked except the wheep hole was still leaking. Then we took it out again and welded shut the wheep hole installed it. Still leaking. Then I went on ebay and bought a BBB industries reman one and have had good results with it so far that I bought another one for my 89 van recently. In my 86 my radiator is leaking, curved hose going to it is also leaking. May have a leak coming from the freeze plug so probably no point in re coring the radiator if the plug will have more pressure to it. The list goes on blah blah blah.:wall:

[brentlehr]

I'm getting ready to replace the long line from the power steering pump to the rack. Any tips? I decided against taking it to the local hydraulic shop again b/c it didn't work out so well. So I tracked down the part through Toyota. Haven't looked closely but it looks like it could be a PITA so any advice is appreciated.

[highwind]

I'm getting ready to replace the long line from the power steering pump to the rack. Any tips? I decided against taking it to the local hydraulic shop again b/c it didn't work out so well. So I tracked down the part through Toyota. Haven't looked closely but it looks like it could be a PITA so any advice is appreciated.

i just pulled one off a Van at the junkyard it wasnt easy from the steering pump to the rack you need to remove (or loosen, not sure if it can be done just by loosening) the radiator and condenser. Tim might know a better way.

[timsrv]

Tim might know a better way..............

Yeah, go to a hydraulic shop and get the parts to fix your original line. If done correctly this is superior and easier than replacing the entire line. Are you saying this didn't work out for you before? Tim

http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?143-88-2WD-LE-Power-Steering-Pressure-Line-Fix&p=5237#post5237

[brentlehr]

Tim, I've had trouble with the local shops I've visited. So now I have the new Toyota part. Right now it's all loose but getting the line through past the radiator and frame is the challenging and I can't really figure out what to do next.

So far I have the alternator, PS pump, radiator hose and some of the air intake tubing off. I have a few ideas but I might have to remove the radiator. Will let ya know.

[brentlehr]

Ok, it's confirmed. Replacing this line requires radiator removal. I'm just going to order the hydraulic fittings and save the line for if/when I have cooling issues down the road. Thanks everyone.

[Jlhollowx13]

Has anyone tried or considered just hose clamping the soft line to the hard line? Is there too much pressure or any other down falls to this? Ive got a leaky hose with a slit right near the junction of the hard and soft lines. Im considering going the Tim's fix route bit was wondering if hose clamping it would work. Thought id ask before i take it all apart and into a hydraulic shop.

[originalkwyjibo]

This is a high pressure line and hose clamps won't hold. According to the FSM, the minimum pump outlet pressure is 1067 psi.

[Jlhollowx13]

This is a high pressure line and hose clamps won't hold. According to the FSM, the minimum pump outlet pressure is 1067 psi.

Thanks i figured but wasnt too sure.

[highwind]

Tim do you remember how long that hose was? I'm having my local hydraulic shop do it they said itll be $50-60 but I need a good length size

[timsrv]

I just guessed when I had mine made up, and was so afraid of getting it too short, I went with 22 1/2", but that ended up being a bit long. I was able to stuff it all in there and find a reasonable path, but if I did it again I'd probably take about 6" off as that would be closer to the factory length of the flexible part. Tim

[Jlhollowx13]

I had one made a couple days ago. Still need to put it in but i just guessed on length too, but i had them make it 12 inches of rubber plus the fittings. Hope it fits! Looks like it should...

[timsrv]

Okay, I just went out and unpacked a new 1989 van power steering hose I have on the shelf. I measured the rubber part and it's 13". Allowing for the rigid end parts and for the overlap onto the steel line, I would guess 15" - 16" (total length) would be a good size. There are differences through the years though that mostly affect the pump end of the line. I only mention this as it's possible you would need different lengths depending on year. It would also depend on where you cut the metal part, but if you leave as much there as possible, I would recommend getting a 16" line.......at least for a 1989 van. Tim

PS: Jlhollow, please follow-up to let us know how yours fits. My 22 1/2" one is acceptable, but the next one will be 16"...........unless you get good results with 12". Tim

[Jlhollowx13]

Havent had a chance to do mine yet but i will update when i do with total length of hose and if it works.

[Jlhollowx13]

FINALLY got around to putting the hose in. I had to order different fittings than I had, once those came I put the pump end hard line onto the rubber line. Looked like it would fit and with a bit of bending of the hard line on the pump side it fit nicely. Having a longer hose would probably be easier to route with, and I don't think I'd go any shorter than I went as it was pretty close.

[AD2101]

I just wanted to share my experience with this as it was an incredible pain in my ass and questionable as to whether or not it was worth it at all. Fair warning, I'm about to go off here, feel free to skip to the bottom if you need to, I won't be offended :)

Anyways, I noticed some time ago that my power steering pressure line had a small but obviously present leak that I had been putting off. In November, my radiator gave up the ghost and while I had the radiator, radiator shroud, and everything else out of the van I figured "why not?" and cut the metal line at the frame, removed the banjo line and headed over to the hydraulic shop by my work.

First mistake, I didn't shop around, but in my defense I didn't really have a chance. Second mistake, I fell victim to the old "you can have it fast, cheap, or good. Pick two" axiom and paid out the nose for a part I would have gladly waited a week or more for if it was done well and affordably. I had printed out all of Tim's pictures and showed the guys at the shop EXACTLY what I wanted; the kid working there looked at the line, looked at the pictures, shrugged his head, and walked into the back of the shop with my line. Confused, I asked the other guy working what the kid was doing, he told me was "probably making the hose." Didn't discuss price or anything, just walked off with my part.

15 minutes and $91 later (seriously), the kid walks back in with the part basically all done up; basically being the operative word here. He says, "it's all done up you just need the 3/8 to 10mm compression fitting and we don't have that here but x, y, and z stores in town should have it." Ok, so it's a bit more than I was hoping to pay, but I'm over a barrel here, he did it in all on my lunch break, and the work he did appears to be high quality. Little did I know that finding said compression fitting was nearly impossible. Nowhere had it locally, tons of places online had it for cheap, but only with BSP threads and that's a British thing that won't thread up with what I got. The end of the line he made was NPS female instead of NPT and I'm fairly positive a correct compression fitting in NPS thread type does not exist anywhere in the world. NPT fittings will thread in together with NPS, but I've read they won't seal properly and won't hold a seal under pressure.

Defeated and in way too deep at this point, I bite the bullet and get the $25 NPT compression fitting from Israel (https://www.grainger.com/product/HAM-LET-316-Stainless-Steel-LET-LOK-4CMN3), go back to the hydraulic shop to ask if my NPT compression fitting will hold pressure and play nice with the NPS line they made. He assured me it would while at the same time not knowing what the difference is between the two or why he made it the way he did instead of using NPT in the first place. I installed everything this past weekend and while it *seems* to be working just fine and sealing properly, I am so bummed with the whole experience. Admittedly, some of this was my fault but still this seems like a job someone in any country that works in metric could do in their sleep with 0 chance of messing up.

If I had to do it over again, I would seriously order some bulk 10mm hydraulic hose and all the 10mm BSP fittings from somewhere in Europe or Japan and have them crimped here. Again, not sure if that's even possible but it'd be a lot cheaper than what I did here and would have been able to work for other members here who are or will be in a similar situation in the future.

TLDR; If you are serious about doing this, shop around, ask if they have all of the parts on hand, and read up on the different thread types commonly used in this business (NPT, NPS, and BSP). My ride cost me about $120 all in, which isn't great but isn't the ripoff of the century either, as long as it works.

[daverave64]

Hello All
I replaced the pressure hose tonight on my 1987 as an assembly, it was a 3 hour job...hardest part was getting the new line in place. I loosened the lower radiator mounting bolts to get a bit of clearance and was able to get just enough room for one of my friends to snake it in as I guided it from in front of the radiator. I was able to use a drive on lift (very lucky) otherwise I think the radiator might have to be removed, it is a very tight fit between the frame and radiator side tank...just thought I would add to this thread, great information.
Also, the new line I purchased did not have the 3 mounting tabs, which actually allowed a little bit more room to get in it, I made some replacement tabs from cushion clamps.

[bmiller425]

Also, the new line I purchased did not have the 3 mounting tabs, which actually allowed a little bit more room to get in it, I made some replacement tabs from cushion clamps.

Hey daverave64,

I was wondering if you could explain how you made the mounting tabs (and maybe post pics). I ran into the same problem and I was trying to just buy some new ones, but can't find the part number anywhere. I have decided to give up and make some, or borrow a dremel to cut the old ones off and rebound them onto the new part. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[daverave64]

Hey daverave64,

I was wondering if you could explain how you made the mounting tabs (and maybe post pics)
Hi
pic attached of the cushion clamp. I had to open up the mounting bolt hole, tab is pretty thin and instead of drilling it out, I just cut a slit and spread it out a bit.
I used a flat washer, lock washer and new bolt to secure it to the mounting point, works great.
Hope this helps,
daverave64

[bmiller425]

Hi
pic attached of the cushion clamp. I had to open up the mounting bolt hole, tab is pretty thin and instead of drilling it out, I just cut a slit and spread it out a bit.
I used a flat washer, lock washer and new bolt to secure it to the mounting point, works great.
Hope this helps,
daverave64

Thanks daverave64!

[whatvan]

This thread has been incredibly helpful as I try and tackle this fix.

However, I’m encountering a similar situation as AD2101 in post#39. All the shops I go to can make the line with the female end, but no one has the 10mm to 3/8” compression fitting.

The part referenced in Post#39 is now $32.00

I googled the compression fitting size and this popped up on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722TZDC6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1A8K5JJBRJ38Q&psc=1

I’m not versed in hydraulic fittings, or hydraulics in general. Considering the price difference, would this be a suitable fitting for the job?

Thanks, Dave

[timsrv]

Yes, I think that would work fine. Tim

[spunkhustler]

This thread has been incredibly helpful as I try and tackle this fix.

However, I’m encountering a similar situation as AD2101 in post#39. All the shops I go to can make the line with the female end, but no one has the 10mm to 3/8” compression fitting.

The part referenced in Post#39 is now $32.00

I googled the compression fitting size and this popped up on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722TZDC6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1A8K5JJBRJ38Q&psc=1

I’m not versed in hydraulic fittings, or hydraulics in general. Considering the price difference, would this be a suitable fitting for the job?

Thanks, Dave

I had a leak I never dealt with so I figured if I was going to keep the van long term i needed to dig into this. My leak was in the hose just below the pump as others have described. I cleaned everything up, filled the reserve up and then started cranking the wheel and looking around. There were two pin holes in the rubber hose about 5 inches below the pump.

For what it's worth the line from the pump to the hard line connecting to the rack can be easily found on Amazon, etc... I bought mine for $50. I pulled the radiator, fan and shroud. Wrestled with the fresh air intake which was honestly the hardest part of the job and had it all buttoned up in about 3 hours. I took an angle grinder to the 3 rubber clamps as they were spot welded on one of the two tabs so I just ground that tab off, un-bent it, put it on the new line and re-bent it.

I felt that it made more sense to leave it stock for the next person but that is my call. I understand why you would splice to fix this as it would be much less work but in terms of time I suspect putting the new line in would be easier than finding a hydraulic shop, ordering parts...

No photos as it is pretty self explanatory

[coreyhucks]

I forgot to mark the hoses and inlets when I pulled the engine apart almost done with the rebuild just have to put the power steering lines on. Is the port on the steering that is closest to the radiator the inlet that receives the pressure line from the pump?

[timsrv]

If you're talking about the ports on the rack, they are slightly different in size and will only go on one way.

[coreyhucks]

I was worried about that for some reason both fittings will go on either port. I want to say the port closest to the radiator is the pressure side. I hope I haven’t stripped anything. Do you know if the port closest to the radiator is the pressure side??? I m really hoping these isn’t stripping in there now. I wound them in both ports somehow.

[coreyhucks]

You’re right of course Tim!!! I can get both in the back, one really loose one proper tight and only one of them will wind properly in the front. Which is the pressure side for sure.

[timsrv]

Again, I'm still assuming you're talking about the rack, and if you are, the port on the back (radiator side) is the pressure line. The port on the front (bevel gear side) is the return line. The return line can also be easily identified as it has regular spring clamps near the rack where it changes from metal to rubber. Does that answer your question?

[coreyhucks]

Yes it does thank you

[timsrv]

For what it's worth, I'm not 100% sure these ports are different size, I just know that's a common thing for manufacturers to do to avoid confusion. I changed the rack on my 86 back in August last year and I assumed they wouldn't interchange, so I didn't mark or even worry about these. When I put the new rack in I just screwed them in as they lined up (seemed right). The power steering has been working well since then, so it must be right. Maybe I just got lucky. Tim

[MarkH]

On my '85, I just installed a power steering pump and lines after driving it in manual for the first few months. The 1st gens don't have a rack, but a recirculating ball type steering gear. I assumed that both fittings (pressure and return) were different sizes and couldn't be mixed up, but I found out I was wrong. I had attached the pressure line to the return side. When I started the van and turned the steering wheel just slightly, it violently jerked out of my hands and slammed back and forth. I quickly shut off the van before it could destroy itself. The wheels dug some pretty decent holes in the gravel driveway from slamming back and forth. I switched around the lines (both fittings were the same) and now it steers fine.
Basically, if you install the lines backwards, you'll know pretty quick.

[JPERL]

The High Pressure lines look the same to me but yet Toyota shows different part numbers and the matrix says they both are not compatible, but those matrix can be wrong often

[timsrv]

88 & 89 are the same. There are some differences on earlier years but not between 88 - 89. Tim

[JPERL]

thank you Tim, much appreciated