The fusible link thread

[timsrv]

The FL 1.25B fusible link is a common problem area on these vans. To start with it's in an odd place. It's tucked up in the body just in front of the battery box. To get to it you have to lay on the ground with a flashlight, reach up to lift, then yank down off it's holding post. Another odd thing (considering this location) is it's not in a waterproof box. It is protected, well, sort of, but certainly not waterproof. Note: This fusible link is only present on 86 - 89 vans.

Here is what it looks like while on it's mounting post.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0149.jpg

Here are some pix of what it looks like after being pulled down.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/FusibleLink-1.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/FusibleLink2-1.jpg

Considering it's over 20 years old, the one in the pictures above is in remarkably good shape. This is a west coast van though with fairly low miles (about 100k) so it's had an easy life. The protective box on this one was wrapped with electrical tape and it looks like somebody put some sort of white grease on the conductors too.

The "B" in the 1.25B relates to the diameter of the fuse wire. The bigger the wire, the more current it can handle before it blows. I don't have a conversion chart handy, but I'm estimating that 1.25B is equivalent to about 80A. You'd think by the mid 80's Toyota would have been labeling everything in amps &/or using conventional breakers / fuses. One would also think they would know better than to put a non-waterproof electrical connection (not to mention one of the most important ones) underneath a vehicle.......and oh yes, right behind a tire. Go figure :dizzy:.

Here is a replacement fusible link wire. It is still available through Toyota for about $15. It's Toyota part #90982-08276
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/part1-1.jpg


Here is the next most problematic fusible link. The FL 0.5G fusible link is the yellow connector going to the positive battery post inside your battery box. It is rated at 0.5G (based on wire gauge, I'm guessing about 20A). This protects the alternator sense circuit that links the battery positive to the "S" terminal (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/electrical/alt_diagram_zps907cbf7d.jpg) of the voltage regulator (built into your alternator). If this link is bad or disconnected, the end result is solid "Christmas lights" on your instrument panel and a "full field" condition in your alternator. Full field is when the regulator tells the alternator to go to maximum output all the time and can be dangerous. A short trip probably wouldn't cause any problems, but long term use could cause multiple electrical problems (due to over voltage) and worse case scenario could end with a thermal runaway condition occurring with your battery. Thermal runaways are scary and dangerous. The result is usually a pile of molten lead, plastic and battery acid all over the place. Thermal runaways have also been known to start fires, so don't push your luck with a bad or failing FL 0.5G link. Here is a what a typical 20 something year old one looks like:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0158.jpg

Although slightly more protected than the main fusible link, this link is still in a harsh environment and after 20 years or so will probably need some attention. I haven't checked to see if these are still available through Toyota, but really didn't see the need for genuine Toyota here. If Toyota still has these, they will no doubt want more $$$ for them than what they are worth. I have found a good substitute for these through Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-0950PT/?rtype=10) for $2.95. These PICO fuse holders are water tight and are rated at 30A. Since this is a "sense" circuit, there would normally not be any current here, so I am going to recommend using a 15A ATC fuse. Here are a couple of pictures:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0164.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0155.jpg

These next fusible links are actually in a pretty good spot so they don't need much attention. Still, it's good to know where they are and what they do so I'm going to include these in this post.

These are located in the compartment behind the front passenger seat. To access, slide the seat all the way forward, peal the carpet back, remove the single screw that holds the access panel lid, and remove it. This fusible link box is right behind the power steering reservoir:



http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/EngineFusebox-1.jpg

The EFI fusible link is rated at 30A and supplies power to the ECU and all the fuel injection related circuits. The AM2 fusible link is also rated at 30A and supplies power to the ignition related components such as the igniter, distributor, coil, and so on. The headlight fusible link is rated at 40A and you guessed it, it supplies power to the headlight circuit. The AM1 fusible link is rated at 60A and supplies power to all your accessories that come on when the ignition switch is in the "on" position. It is also the source of power for the starter solenoid circuit (trigger wire) when the key is turned to the "start" position. Important note: The AM1 fusible link does not just "pull-out" from the holder. There is a screw going into it from the side to hold it in place. Unless it's blown, it's best to leave this one alone.

Last but certainly not least is the FL 2.0L fusible link. This one could be considered the most important because it supplies power to ALL the other fusible links (except the yellow FL 0.5G) This one is usually not mentioned due to confusion about it's location and because it rarely fails. When it does fail, most mechanics will bypass it without even realizing it's there. This is because it looks like an ordinary wire coming off the positive battery post. The 1st 6" of that "wire" are actually the 2.0L fusible link. The other end of this fusible link hooks up to a white wire with a blue stripe and that's the same wire that feeds the Fusible link that everybody knows about (the FL 1.25B). Here is a picture of the FL 2.0L. It comes from the factory in a soft loose fitting gray plastic cover.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0168.jpg

Here's a picture taken from the wiring schematic that I marked up. Enjoy. Tim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/IMG_0175.jpg

[djshimon]

Thank you for this. I've not needed to work on the fusible link yet(that i can tell), but have read much on it and never seen a picture or found it when trying to find it(lazily and using written descriptions). Very helpful, and the 15amp fuse replacement is helpful too. -aaron.

[VanSurfer]

Thank you for this amazing thread Tim!!! Here's a question, if there is enough cable and there is enough room,,, is there any reason the FL 1.25B can't be pulled up into the battery box area? I did this to mine so that all 3 FLs are inside, so I can access them in the same place,,, rather than getting 2 inside and one outside.

[timsrv]

Being in CA I wouldn't think it would be worth the trouble to relocate. FWIW I've never actually blown that fusible link before so I never gave it much thought. Van owners in areas where they salt the roads have the most trouble with this particular FL & I could certainly understand those people wanting to relocate.

Just remember when fusible links blow they can produce an exciting shower of sparks. Batteries vent hydrogen, and they vent the most in instances of high current flow.........which also happens to be the most likely time to blow a FL:yikes:. I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm just saying these things are worth consideration and the location you choose may require a little more protection (just in case). Tim

[hiking]

Hi,

Just went to local Toyota dealer (southern Calif.) , I was informed that the fusible link is no longer available. Is that true? If no longer available what amperage fuse would one put in there?

Thanks,
Hiking

[timsrv]

Depends on which fusible link you're talking about. Please specify.

[hiking]

Sorry for the omission of which fusible link:doh:da!
The one I'm refering to is FL 1.25B.

Hiking

[timsrv]

I got one of these about 2 months ago, but I have a great Toyota parts guy. His attitude is order things even when they are shown to be unavailable. He's gotten me lots of things I thought were gone, but the parts supply on these vans is dwindling so I wouldn't be too surprised if they are history. FWIW, before I found my current parts guy I was told several parts were NLA. Since finding Brian at Tonkin Toyota in Portland, he's managed to get me several of these "unavailable parts" more than once. You might try another parts guy just to see if your guy is just being lazy. If this truly is NLA, then I'd look at other possibilities.

If the FL 1.25B box and the conductors inside are still okay, then I'd put some bulk FL link wire inside the box and save yourself the trouble of rewiring. The rule of thumb is the fusible link should be 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting. I'm going to guess here and say the alternator wire is 8 ga, so if that's the case, you would want a 12 ga fusible link wire here. You can get FL wire at most auto parts stores in bulk for about a buck a foot. Here's some on Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124PT-Gauge-Fusible-Package/dp/B0002ZGBRE . Verify the size of the wire it's hooked up to, then select the FL wire based on that. Cut the length you need and crimp eyes on it to resemble the original. Be sure to use a high quality crimper like Klein and don't forget to use a dab of dielectric grease on the terminals to protect them.

If the FL link box is toast and you cannot easily find a replacement, then I'd probably use a big slow-blow fuse here. I'm thinking stock alternators are 65 amps, so a 70 - 80 amp fuse or breaker would be about right. You should check and verify wire gage, then size the fuse based on the maximum current the wire can hold. Here's a link to a wire gauge chart: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm .

[glennview]

I was able to order an FL1.25B from a Chicago Toyota dealer at a cost of $27.

While checking out the other fusible links, the ring terminal on the FL0.5G broke. I replaced the ring terminal, but tried to order a new FL0.5G green fusible link wire with plastic connector on one end and ring terminal on the other. The parts guy could not be sure which of 2 fusible links it was. I asked the prices of the 2. He quoted me $15 and $1. I ordered them both. What arrived were 30A and 40A plug in fusible links. Another parts guy at this dealership said the FL0.5G was part of the wiring harness and was no longer available.

At this web site, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html, I found a chart that lists fusible link wire sizes and colors and the amperage of the wires they are protecting. The colors and dimensions of these fusible links are the same as those on my Toyota. Although this site is about 1975 Nissan 280Z fusible links, I guess that the color coding in Japan is consistent across time and brand. So I am in the market for a 6" piece of Japanese 0.5 square millimeter green fusible link wire. I computed its equivalent to be AWG 26 gauge fusible link wire.

I have owned an 1988 van for 18 years, and I am just now finding out about the access hole behind the passenger seat--thanks to TOYOTAVANTECH.COM. Neither the owners manual or the service manual provide this information.

[momentum]

Today I was going over my battery and wires going to the FL 0.5G fusible link broke, the yellow connector going to the positive battery post inside my battery box. I immediatly disconnected the battery and wish to replace this piece. That said...How do I go about this?

Tim suggests purchasing a "Pico" electrical fuse holder. I purchased a waterproof 30A fuse from NAPA and will get the 15A ATC Fuse tomorrow. How do I install and repair this fusible link?

Do I need a new connector to the battery terminal or can I use the orginal if it looks good?
Do I strip back the wire, soder wire (new orange to OEM van wire) then heat shrink?


Any info will help. Thanks forum members!

[timsrv]

How you fix will depend on how it broke and what condition the rest of the cable/terminal is in. If the damage is restricted to the yellow link, then cut it out and re-use the left over wire to splice-in the fuse holder. High quality butt connectors crimped on with a high quality crimper (like a Klein) would be adequate but solder and shrink tube would be better.

If the damage and corrosion extends beyond the small fusible link wires then you may need to replace the entire battery terminal. It all depends on the extent of the damage. Tim

[glennview]

My 0.5G fusible link broke at the ring terminal. I installed a new ring terminal onto the 1/8" shorter fusible link wire. I had to alter a ring terminal to fit. Although the length of the fusible link wire is important, I do not think that missing 1/8" will cause a problem. I tried to buy that fusible link from Toyota to have on hand as a spare. Toyota said that it wasn't available. Toyota also said that fusible link was part of the wiring harness which also wasn't available.

[kcg795]

This fusible link was giving me problems before. If I hit the brakes, the stereo would turn off. If I flipped the fan onto full blast, the engine would choke out. I found it to be hanging by a single strand of wire. I spliced a piece of 18 gauge to it and that helped. Now I plan on deleting this fusible link altogether. Then I'm running 4 gauge from the alternator to the battery and it'll be protected with an 80 amp fuse. It's basically the leftover wire from when I had my stereo system before it was stolen. Then the wire that the fusible link was connected to will be tapped into that 80 amp fuse as well. Then I will be running more 4 gauge to under the dash to an aftermarket fuse box that will run my headlights, new stereo (if I decide to get one), and one of the fuses will be tapped in with a circuit that comes on when you turn the key to ACC (one click). I'm hoping this will fix all the electrical bugs once and for all and then my Van can stop eating expensive batteries.

[kcg795]

Here's progress so far.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzlj_P8fENk

[timsrv]

"Out of the way cat, I'll crush your head in" :LOL2: :rol:

[kcg795]

Did some more work today on it. Napa let me have the nuts and screws for nothing because it would cost them more to run my debit card. The mechanic who works there asked "you still have that thing?" Anyway, I mounted the new fuse box to the A/C amplifier. I ran the 4 gauge underneath. I just need to solder on a ring terminal and connect it to that nut where the alternator connects to. I'll have new video up in the next day or so.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20120402_205107.jpg

[kcg795]

And here's the video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiNdqqzXZIo

[kcg795]

Got a terminal soldered on the end of that wire now and got it connected. So far, everything is working great. Discovered the driver's side high beam burned out, so I replaced it. I turned everything on with the engine running and seems to be stable. I'm confident a wiring upgrade like this will get rid of some of the electrical gremlins in these Vans.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20120412_144647.jpg

[kcg795]

Went ahead and bought some 14 gauge fusible link from Napa. I assume this will be ok.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20120420_175609.jpg

Then I went ahead and soldered it to the original female spade connector. Gotta love heatshrink tubing to make to look nice and clean.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc263/kcg795/20120420_191936.jpg

Even though I wired the alternator directly to the battery, this fusible link still needs to be connected or the idiot lights will come on. I also found a constant 12 volt wire under the steering column where I can also spice some fresh wire to. I connected my multimeter to my new fusebox and that constant 12 volt wire in the steering column and set it to the milliamp setting and it looks like there's just a little bit of loss. The needle moves up just a little. If I turn on the hazards, the needle jumps up and down every time the lights blink. So, there's obviously some loss through the original wiring. So, I'm going to go ahead and connect that constant 12 volt wire to my new fusebox so the system can get some clean power and redundancy.

[Burntboot]

Hey Tim - Wondering what you would replace the 2.0L Fusible link with?

Been having christmas lights the past couple of days and just ripped out the battery and associated wiring and found the 2.0L AND the .5G have been "modified", essentially cut out and straight wire installed and not well done at that.
I have picked up a couple of weather tight ATO fuse holders and to deal with the problem.

I also have cut back the harness till I found the original white and white/blue wires.
Is 12G wire sufficient replacement for the white/blue wire??

I am clear that the .5G should be sufficient with a 15A fuse but not sure what to put in for the 2.0L??

For what it's worth, when I asked the local parts store if they had any fusible link wire, he said "yeah I's gots all kinds of fuses".
When I clarified my requirements, he appeared rather confused and told me there was no such thing.:cnfsd:
So a fuse it will have to be.
Thanks
BB

[timsrv]

As a general rule fusible links should be replaced with fusible links. That being said I don't see any problems using a 15A fuse in place of the FL.5g. For the bigger ones though, I think it's just a good idea to stick with what Toyota intended. I still haven't had a need to replace a 2.0 link yet, but when it comes to fusible links the rule is to use a link 4 number sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting.

This means the 1st thing you'll need to do is determine the gauge of the white/blue wire. I can't recall what size this is but I'm thinking it's 6 ga wire. If it does turn out to be 6 gauge, then you will want a piece of 10 gauge fusible link wire to replace it with. If that wire is 8 gauge then you'll want a section of 12 gauge fusible link wire. Most auto parts stores like Napa will carry fusible link wire in bulk so I'd look for it there. To determine the gauge of the white/blue wire, when you cut/strip it, measure the diameter of the copper conductor and use the chart below. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/WireChart.jpg

[Burntboot]

Thanks Tim.

Not of course what I wanted to hear as I have decent weather today (35F and sunny).
Tomorrow is supposed to be freezing rain, then rain, then snow. :(
That and the teachers are on strike tomorrow so I will have added distraction.

The white/blue wire actually measures about 0.117in which is approx 9gauge wire, going by your chart.

Will have to see what I can hunt down around town, there are other stores, they're just further away.

Any idea how long the fuse link wire should be, I have about 2 feet of wire to replace to get from the harness to the battery.
Would 6in of fusible link sufficient do you think? of which I am assuming that I should be hunting 13G fusible link.

I have found out here that odd numbers of anything isn't available, so if no 13 is available, would you go 12 or 14?
I know for a fact I wont find any 9ga regular wire, my options will be 8 or 10.

My plan will be to go with 8ga regular wire and 12ga link??
Would prefer to avoid a thermal event, as I am allergic to those sorts of things.
Thanks
BB

[timsrv]

I would probably go with 8 ga wire & the 12 ga fusible link. If it wasn't already cut out I would measure and cut to the same length as the old, but since it's already butchered I think 4"-6" sounds about right. FWIW, I've purchased this at Napa before, but you can also get this from Amazon or various other sources. Looks like Amazon sells the 12 ga in 4' long packages: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-8124pt-12ga-Fusible-Link/dp/B004BTABX2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1357872314&sr=8-8&keywords=fusible+link+wire. Tim

[Burntboot]

Thanks Tim

In the end, I went to the other store and found 12g link wire, unfortunately the largest regular wire they stock is 10g.
So for now it has 10g wire and 6in of 12g link.
Will have to do for now, but have made a note of it for spring and will collect some better wire before then.

Currently Red is the daily driver, so up and running it needs to be.
That and the impending weather prompted me to get it done.
Just as well as the predictions are proving correct, miserable day out there.

Thanks for all the help
BB

[Burntboot]

Red has always displayed some odd little habits, such as the radio momentarily cutting out when the headlamp switch was turned on, or off.
Since yesterdays rewire of the links, this behaviour is no longer present!
:clap:
BB

[MonTex]

Here's a Fusible Link chart from another site:

Ref URL http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107395


Fusing current is in older manuals but that depends on how long that high current is present
.3mm is 100 amps
.5mm is 100 amps
.85mm is 150 amps, 15 sec or less
*1.00mm is 160 amps, 30 sec or less, or 270amps if 5 sec. of less
1.25mm is 190 amps, 15 sec or less

Continuous permissible current if:
temp. is 176 degrees or less
.85mm is 34 amps
1.25mm is 40 amps
temp. is 212 or less
*1.00mm, is 26 amps

[MonTex]

Fusible Link number AM1 (Located on the upper rear firewall of the engine compartment - passenger side)

Fusible link AM1 on my van is a 'bolt-on' modular style fusible link that cannot be readily "pulled" out of its mounting socket like the other three modular style fusible links at the same location can. AM1 looks just like the other three at the same location, but to remove it, a person must un-attach the fusible link 'fuse box' from the rear firewall, then unscrew it from its internal mount within.

[bigeo]

Fusible Link number AM1 (Located on the upper rear firewall of the engine compartment - passenger side)

Fusible link AM1 on my van is a 'bolt-on' modular style fusible link that cannot be readily "pulled" out of its mounting socket like the other three modular style fusible links at the same location can. AM1 looks just like the other three at the same location, but to remove it, a person must un-attach the fusible link 'fuse box' from the rear firewall, then unscrew it from its internal mount within.

Wish I had read this before I tried to pull mine out.

[jaybird]

So the van lights were left on by yours truly and a nice couple had a jumper to get me going. One of the boxes you leave on for 5 mins to charge the battery a little. The issue now is that the charge light came on and the radio went out along with the wipers, blinkers, heater/AC, etc. I thought the battery may finally have been done for so I bought a new one. Still nothing. No power to the ignition it seems and the radio and all mentioned above won't work still either. Headlights and emergency blinkers work. Charge light still on. Could it be the AM1? Or the fusible link on the battery terminal? Any help would be appreciated as I am in a really remote location and little help mechanically here.

Jay

[ninz30]

check your charge fuse on the the fuse block... i think its a 15A or 10A fuse or 7.5A Im not 100% on the amperes, but find it and make sure its not blown.

[jaybird]

check your charge fuse on the the fuse block... i think its a 15A or 10A fuse or 7.5A Im not 100% on the amperes, but find it and make sure its not blown.

I already checked the charge fuse and it appears to be fine. Just for the hell of it I checked them all and they all seem good. Thats what lead me to believe its one of the fusible links?

Jay

[timsrv]

Check the FL 1.25B fusible link. It's the 1st one shown in POST #1 OF THIS THREAD (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?136-The-fusible-link-thread). Tim

[jaybird]

Thanks Tim! That was the one.

[Left4Dead]

Hey Tim, great thread. I was super excited to get out there this morning and check these fuses out. Left4Dead has been sitting a few years and not getting juice to the starter coil or fuel pump. Started with the starter motor - works on the bench, got juice at the starter big wire only. Checked the fuses under the dash, center right - all good. Next, the fuse able links but......they're not where your pics show :no:. Is my 84 that different? I'll check on the rear fire wall for tomorrow. Any other advice?

Thanks a ton,
Rand

[timsrv]

Yes, sorry but I forget sometimes that 84-85 vans exist (I don't own any). From what I understand the FL 1.25B Fusible link was not used 84 - 85 (at least not located in the same place). Perhaps somebody more familiar with the 1st generation vans will chime in here to explain the differences. Tim

[scotty]

I have the "christmas tree" dash problem, just in time for the holidays. I checked out the FL 0.5G fuse and the green wire lead is broken off about 2 inches from the fuse, and I can't find the rest of the wire. Where does the green wire go? Thanks

[timsrv]

The green wire goes to the battery positive & the white wire goes to the sense terminal on the regulator (built into the alternator). I'd just get rid of it and replace with a fuse holder like I did in POST #1 OF THIS THREAD (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?136-The-fusible-link-thread). Tim

[Timothy]

Is there a suitable replacement for the 86 toyota Van 1.25B fusible Link Block and fusible link ?

[timsrv]

Unfortunately the holder is part of the wire harness, and I don't think you'll find that new. I'm thinking something like THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Audio-80A-On-off-Switch-1-in-1-Out-Fuse-Holder-/321704416090?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae713d35a) might do the job, but I would want it mounted in a sheltered location. There are other things you can find on Amazon, eBay, etc. Just do a search and lots of stuff will pop up. You'll want it to trip/blow at around 80A. Tim

[Timothy]

Thanks Tim. I did find one of the last 2 fusible link blocks for the FL 1.25B fusible link still in stock. So for any one else out there looking, the part number is 82620-28040 for the plastic Block Assy. The 1.25B fusible link part number is 90982-08276.

[Nolo33]

I am looking for the same solution for the 2.0 FL.. Had the exact same response from 2 National Automotive shops, the Advanced Auto freaks and the 10th century parts guy at Toyota. "Dumbfounded"... Side note -bought the 1.25b FL through Toyota today for $26.84, 1-2 day shipping..

[Timothy]

Great to hear that you found it. I have not had any issues with the dash lights or charging system since I replaced both fuses near the battery. Not too far from you in Columbia, SC. Good luck !

[Burntboot]

Nolo - My local auto parts store had short (10-12") 12g FL wire in blister packs, I used about 6in with crimp and shrink connectors (ring terminal at battery, butt terminal where it meets the harness)

No issues since.
Hope it helps

BB

[Nolo33]

So the amperage of the 2.0 is 80A and you can simply straight wire without an actual fuse, just the FL wire? Can you post a photo here of that set up? I'm not very electrically inclined..

[Nolo33]

Found 7 foot pieces of 12 Guage FL Wire for a replacement of the 2.0 FL at NAPA and runs about $1 per foot. I think I have figured it all out at this point and I thank you all for your imput. It has been tremendously helpful.
Big props to Tim in Portland! Keep it weird and keep it wired!
Former P-Town resident myself...

[Rivvy121060]

What can I replace these fusible links with if Toyota links arent available? Best substitutions?

[Burntboot]

The FL1.25B and it's holder are still available from Toyota as is the yellow main fuse.
As they are still available, its the easiest route to go (and not overly expensive and they "fit" without having to re-engineer anything).

The other 2 are NLS, but the solutions are all contained within the post you have quoted.
(Pico or weather-pack fuse holder with a 15A ATO fuse and 6in of 12G fusible link wire, both are sold at most auto-parts stores)

BB

[Rivvy121060]

Thanks:wnk:

[Rivvy121060]

Ok here we go:?:! I changed my fusible links and checked all connectors...tried to start and checked for codes. The engine light blinks 3 times then stops and 3 again several times. Assuming the code is 3! Would any issues with cap, rotor, wires or coil cause this or is it a cut and dry issue with ignitor?:dizzy::dizzy::pissed:

[Burntboot]

Rivvy - Now that you have your links sorted, perhaps this discussion would be better addressed on your other thread?

[89TownAce]

Ok here we go:?:! I changed my fusible links and checked all connectors...tried to start and checked for codes. The engine light blinks 3 times then stops and 3 again several times. Assuming the code is 3! Would any issues with cap, rotor, wires or coil cause this or is it a cut and dry issue with ignitor?:dizzy::dizzy::pissed:

My flashing dash lights ended up being a half-burnt ignition fuse. Although my van is totally different than yours so it's a long shot. Worth checking though.

[kinger]

What happens if you run it with the headlights fusible link removed? I assume the obvious in that the headlights won't work, but is anything else affected?

I have a short somewhere in my headlight system and it goes away only when I remove that fusible link. So I am curious if I can run my rig during the day with the FL out and not have my battery drained...

Anyone have any idea?
Thanks and happy holidays😃

[amcneill]

hey guys, so i started getting an occasional clicking when trying to start my van (1986 2wd 5spd) and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals so i decided to go through all the fusible links/battery terminals etc. when i got to the am1 fuse, it looked like the previous owner had tried to remove it with a hammer. blindfolded. it was all beat up and cracked, and the clear cover on the top was missing. the fuse was still intact, but so green with corrosion that i figure id be crazy to not change it.

4967

i pulled it out, and took it to the parts store and the guy behind the counter said they didnt carry fuses like it and that he had never seen one before...is it a special fuse only available through toyota maybe? is it special because its a "fusible link" and not a fuse? If anybody could share a link of where i can find one if it isnt a specialty toyota fuse, that would be excellent! ive done a fair amount of searching but couldnt find anything that looks similar

[Burntboot]

Not sure about the aftermarket but easily available at your friendly neighbourhood Toyo dealer.
It was used in many different models over the years, you shouldn't have any trouble locating something.
BB

[Jdelgado]

I've bought replacements from vatozone, but I'm sure you can find some online! look up bussmann 60 Amp Fusible link. Hope this helps!

[NWVanner]

Howdy folks!:wave1:

So some recent problems with my 87 4WD van. First the headlights went completely out. After searching, replacing stuff (even swapped out the main fuse block!), testing, etc...found the cause to be a blown Fusible Link behind the power steering reservoir. Replaced that...all is well....for a little bit anyway. Driving to Oly the other night with the headlights on, chillin', cruisin' and all of a sudden everything shuts OFF! Dash lights, head lights, engine...ALL OFF! Traced the problem to my AM1 Fusible Link. The van is killing these things one by one! With no tools or spare fuse, had the van towed home....luckily I wasn't far.


Off to the parts vans I go. Both had the fusible links still. I replace the AM1, van started but when I turned on the headlights, the van wanted to die. After playing with this a few minutes, the van died and blew the headlight AND EFI FL. WHAT?! :cnfsd: After inspecting, I'm finding the van has/had some fairly corroded Fusible Links. I replaced the blown ones with the best ones I had and now turning on the headlights isn't an issue and the van seems ok. I want to keep spare Fusible Links in my vans. Having problems finding them online... are they NLA? Anyone have part numbers for these? I looked at the online FSM and didn't find part numbers. I'd like to have at least 3 sets of each. Picture below of what I'm looking for...any info is appreciated.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/EngineFusebox-1.jpg

[JDM VANMAN]

How do you pull the AM1 fuse, i was able to pull out the first 3 and couldn't figure out how to get that last one?

Thank you

JDM

[NWVanner]

Hey JDM! The AM1 fuse is attached with screws. There are two bolts holding the block up, just loosen them and slide the block out. You'll see the wires attached with screws. You can either use a screwdriver or a socket (8MM?) to get the screws loose. Took me a while and a busted up Fusible Link to figure this out. :dance2:

Brent

[PNW vanwagon]

thought i'd pass along some potentially valuable info related to fusible link trouble shooting:

only had this van a few months. it runs and drives great. but i noticed when it was wet and rainy van would start and run rough. a few times (only when it was pouring rain) engine completely lost power and shut off. after it dried out van started up fine and drives fine.

i replaced distributor cap / cap seal, rotor, spark plugs and plug wires.

i also covered the 1.25B fusible link with an aluminum sheath.

no more problems! even when van has sat in the rain for days and driven in pouring wet conditions.

i can't say for sure covering the fusible link in an aluminum sheath was the only fix but it seems like a good idea to help keep off water and dirt etc. some people say a thin coat of dielectric grease on the FL might help.

i used these aluminum take-out boxes 3 for a dollar at the dollar store which i cut and bent to shape. also made a shield over the alternator with same material. maybe i'll make something a little more permanant later.

5106

[Rivvy121060]

Can you still buy the AM1 fusible link?

[timsrv]

The 60A AM1 FL has been superseded by an 80A fuse Toyota part #90982-08203 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~fusible~link~90982-08203.html). I believe the #PAL180 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STRAIGHT-MALE-TERMINAL-FUSE-EDELMANN-PAL180-/201561756642?hash=item2eee0453e2:g:g6wAAOSwRJ9Xhbe ~&vxp=mtr) will work here too (and that should be readily available at most auto parts stores. Tim

[NWVanner]

The 60A AM1 FL has been superseded by an 80A fuse Toyota part #90982-08203 (https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~fusible~link~90982-08203.html). I believe the #PAL180 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STRAIGHT-MALE-TERMINAL-FUSE-EDELMANN-PAL180-/201561756642?hash=item2eee0453e2:g:g6wAAOSwRJ9Xhbe ~&vxp=mtr) will work here too (and that should be readily available at most auto parts stores. Tim

Thank you for the info Tim. I think I should pick up a few spares. Never know. :)

Brent

[spacecruisers]

The FL 0.5G fusible link appears to be missing from my battery compartment:
5173

I traced the wire and if i followed it right it runs to the + junction box. is that short green section thats been spliced in a fusible link? Should I worry about this or does this look acceptable?
5174

[LightBlueToy]

There was a 1.5" section of thin solid core wire coming from the harness to my battery (+) where FL 0.5G should be. I put in a weather resistant fuse holder and 15 amp ATO fuse like Tim suggested.

[spacecruisers]

what does the FL1.25B do exactly? What circuit is it on and what would symptoms be if it failed or was disconnected?

[timsrv]

It pretty much powers everything except the starter motor. Although if it blows, the starter still won't work because the trigger circuit is powered by the FL1.25B. When the FL1.25B blows, the van will become completely dead except the charge light will illuminate. If it's damaged or partially melted, then some things may still work and/or everything may blink on/off intermittently. It's a good idea to check it annually to be sure it's in good shape and that the connection points are corrosion free. Putting a dab of dielectric grease on it's terminals will help prevent corrosion and prolong it's life. Tim

[spacecruisers]

Ok, so mine broke off at the ring terminal. See photo below. However, the van still starts up normal and all electronics seem to work just fine (besides my christmas dash)
Does this mean the FL1.25B has been bypassed? I'd inspect further but I'm not quite sure what to look for. I'm a bit baffled that the van runs as normal with it completely disconnected :cnfsd:

5234

[timsrv]

Does this mean the FL1.25B has been bypassed?

I'd have to assume that too as it would be quite a trick to get those circuits powered up "wireless". Fuses, breakers and fusible links are not required.............unless something unexpected happens. If something shorts out, you could end up needing to replace the entire van rather than just a fusible link. Since vehicles burn so hot, it's not uncommon for them to take-out other vehicles and/or structures.

Of course that kind of result would be unlikely, but I'd recommend not tempting old Murphy. Tim

[spacecruisers]

I'd have to assume that too as it would be quite a trick to get those circuits powered up "wireless". Fuses, breakers and fusible links are not required.............unless something unexpected happens. If something shorts out, you could end up needing to replace the entire van rather than just a fusible link. Since vehicles burn so hot, it's not uncommon for them to take-out other vehicles and/or structures.

Of course that kind of result would be unlikely, but I'd recommend not tempting old Murphy. Tim


ill have to trace the wiring and see where it goes and if they've put another section of fusible link somewhere in its place. Don't know a ton about wiring. A wireless power system would be great :rol:

[timsrv]

Whenever I repair vehicles with "hacked" wiring, the 1st thing I do is inspect all accessible areas and look for hacks. Factory wiring is neat and clean. Hacks usually stick out like a sore thumb. Whenever a hack is detected, I remove all the "added" wires, then reconnect any cut or damaged factory wiring by observing the color codes. After bypasses and hacks are put back to original configuration I'll then test and troubleshoot to find, and then repair the original problem in a proper way.

In this case you already know the FL1.25B is the issue, so that should make the last part easy. I would assume the hack to be a larger gauge wire (probably 8 or 6 gauge) because anything smaller would likely not have been able to last this long. When looking for the hack, I'd start out checking the battery for an extra wire on the positive terminal. If there's one there, follow it to the other end and remove. If I had to guess, I'd suspect they ran a wire from the batt + to the + box next to the Air Flow meter (where the alternator output wire hooks into the system). Good luck. Tim

[timsrv]

I just went back and looked at your pics (earlier this thread) and see an extra wire at the + box (there should only be 2 wires here).

[spacecruisers]

Yeah, I'm at work at the moment, but if i remember correctly i traced that red wire back to the postiive terminal on the battery....ill have to double check (where the FL0.5G was missing - see photo from earlier in the thread) i assume that green section of wire spliced into that red wire from the + junction is a fusible link wire to replace the missing FL0.5G...?

anyway thanks for the info Tim, i think you hit the nail on the head. ill have to investigate further tonight so i can provide a better idea whats going on

[spacecruisers]

Ok, pulled out the battery and battery tray to get a better idea of whats going on. The two wrapped white/blue wires were running to the fusible link which was totally toast, the third white blue wire was running to the positive battery terminal, and the red wire (top of photo 2) was coming from the + junction next to the engine to the positive battery terminal. See attached photos. Hopefully I can fix this situation and it will also resolve my christmas dash :)

If anyone knows the wiring and can explain what the PO did here and what steps to fix it proper I'd be super grateful. Im a total noob when it comes to wiring/electrical.

5249

5247

5248

[timsrv]

There's enough information here in this thread to help you through it. If you do not have the proper tools, terminals, and/or knowledge on how to use them, then it might be better to take it to a shop that does automotive electrical work. If you're determined enough to make the investment in tools/materials, then go to youtube and watch a few videos on crimping wires. In today's world you can get some darn good tools for pennies on the dollar--compared to what they sold for 20 years ago (I have some mechanical cable crimpers that cost me ~$300, but prefer to use the now available cheap hydraulic ones from China). Quality of the Chinese tools might not be the best, but they are still adequate to get the job done. If you use them right they do just as good of a job. For the bigger wires/cables, hydraulic crimpers do nice professional crimps. For the smaller wires Klein makes a nice set of crimpers that are affordabe. Here's some links:

https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK007010-Hydraulic-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0114QC3OY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492918524&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hydraulic+crimper&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492918596&sr=1-1&keywords=klein+crimper

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBZR_XiEnk

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=crimping+battery+terminals

I like the video of the guy showing the Klein crimping because that's the way I do it (on the small wires). There's guys showing the proper way using the bigger hydraulic crimpers, but frankly the videos I watched were long, drawn out and hard to watch. This video (below) doesn't show the Chinese hydraulic unit, but it shows what a good crimp looks like, so it's good for reference. Tim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qYZFxQ8Pxw&t=185s

[Bevo1kanobe]

One question, Do you have to upgrade this wire when upgrading alternator? I mean if you upgrade to a higher amperage alternator and change out the fusible link to a higher rating , in my case 250a anl fuse. Do I have to replace this wire with a proper size wire or wires? Or do I hit remove fusible link and connect the new fuse directly in place of the fusible link fuse?

[timsrv]

The wire/fuse you use should be based on alternator output (both positive and negative). Put the fuse the positive side near the battery. The new fuse and wire should be capable of sustained max output of alternator, but fuse should be rated slightly less than max continuous load rating on wire. Use this in addition to the existing fusible links, then just remove the the old alternator output wire that goes between plus box and big post of alternator (shown in the figure above).

Leave the old fusible links alone as they are still required to supply power to the van circuits. The fusible links are there to protect the van's wiring and are already sized appropriately. If you replace fusible links with anything rated higher than what the old wire can handle, you're asking for a melt-down (don't do it). If you're adding additional heavy loads to the system, wire them directly to the battery and use appropriately sized wire and fuses. If you want these loads ignition switched, use an appropriately sized continuous duty solenoid and use an ignition circuit to trigger the coil. Tim

[Earthlin]

I've been going through lots of alternators, once or twice a year. Would this be a result of a bad fusible link?

[timsrv]

No. If I had to guess, I'd suspect you're using the cheap rebuilt alternators found at discount auto parts stores. Sounds like you need a real Denso alternator (https://www.densoproducts.com/product.aspx?zpid=12259). Denso rebuilt units (acutally rebuilt by Denso) are much higher quality than your standard run-of-the-mill rebuilds. Here's a link to a thread with more information: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?335-Alternator-woes

[Earthlin]

Thanks, that was my thought too but I just had my alternator rebuilt 2 months ago by a highly regarded shop in Brooklyn. I'm taking it back to them in the next couple days to see what they say.

[timsrv]

They might not be aware of the special needs of our vans. Cheap parts may work fine in most vehicle configurations, but van alternators go through extreme service. Unless they're installing genuine Denso parts (in particular the diode block) I would not expect them to last. I was going through these things too until I switched to genuine Denso. The alternator In my daily driver has been doing great since I installed it in May 2014 (45k miles ago). Tim

[Earthlin]

Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?

[timsrv]

Timsrv, I can't tell who made my core. If it came from Autozone and it's not a Denso it's not worth rebuilding again right? Even with Denso parts?

Your alternator was originally manufactured by Denso, but it's most likely been rebuilt with lesser quality aftermarket parts, then resold by Autozone. If you knew where to get the genuine Denso parts (and at a reasonable price), all you'd need to do is replace whichever part failed inside (probably the diode block) with Denso. Since we don't have access to the good OE Denso parts at affordable prices, the next best thing is to purchase the entire Denso unit (actually rebuilt by Denso). That link I provided earlier is actually a pretty good deal. If I were wanting another, I'd get one of those.

Of course this is assuming your alternator has failed. There's other things (like the alternator harness) that can create this same issues. If you take your old alternator off and it tests bad, then just get the Denso unit. I'm telling you from experience, unless something has changed, the cheap rebuilds don't last (been there done that).

A cheaper alternative might be to go shopping at an auto salvage yard. As mentioned in that other thread (linked to above) there are several other vehicles that use similar Denso alternators. Their external cases may have different mount configurations, but the internals are the same. When I'm running low on alternator parts I will look for original Denso alternators on other vehicles, then remove the parts I need (inside the yard). The guys at the counter usually don't recognize alternator parts as big sales items and will often let me have them for a couple bucks. If I'm getting other bigger items, they'll usually just throw those in for free. Tim

[colindo]

Theres some smoking coming from the FL2.0L fusible link right at the connector to the battery terminal. I noticed it after jumping the battery. I'm not too surprised it was dead because it had been sitting for a few weeks, but this has never been a problem before. There are no other issues that I can tell. I'm wondering if there's a short somewhere causing the smoking, but I have no clue where to start looking? Any suggestions?

[timsrv]

At some point you just need to get in there and replace things. Battery terminal ends don't last forever and this is a common place for corrosion. Little wisps of smoke at battery terminals/connection points are indicators there's too much resistance at a connection. Anything other than shiny metal in these locations should be either cleaned until shiny or replaced. Then all connections need to be tight. A good measure of prevention is also recommended. You can get anti corrosive compound at any auto parts store and/or even places like Walmart. I like to put that stuff on each terminal before attaching (so the stuff is down in there). If the terminals are bad enough to replace, you'll either need to buy a good set of crimpers or take the van into an auto electric place and pay them to do it.

Even though I keep things clean and tight, I still find myself needing to get into these areas to clean/replace every 5 years or so. Batteries will often lose their seal between the plastic and the lead posts. When that happens the corrosion problem becomes more severe and requires more care/maintenance. If that becomes a constant issue, you might be better off replacing your battery and the affected terminals and be done with it......at least until it happens again :wall:. Tim

[ncbrock]

So my van is stranded with some wiring issue. Someone replaced the fusable link that’s in the alternator circuit with a inline fuse holder and a 40 amp fuse. The van keeps blowing that fuse after the van gets above 1500rpm. The van will idle for a long time with no issue just once you put load of rev the engine it will blow the fuse and I lose all power, but the engine is still able to run/drive. I haven’t found out how big of a fuse it melt but it melted 16ga wire that I tried to jumper the fuse to get the van home. This 40aml fuse has been working great for thousands and thousands of miles, and for months and months I’ve had no electrical issues. Totally unrelated but I just got done replacing rotors, calipers, wheel bearings and the car sat for 2 weeks but I have no idea how that caused any problem related to this.

I don’t have a volt meter on me to test anything. Could my alternator finally be dead?

[originalkwyjibo]

Your alternator is capable of producing 70amps. If your van has sat a few weeks, the battery may be low and asking for more amperage to recharge. When you rev the engine the alternator is putting out more amperage than the fuse can handle. I believe the ampacity rating of 16 gauge is maybe 10amps. So, the big question before you try putting a 70amp fuse in that holder is, "What gauge is your charge wire?".

[boogieman]

do you get a charge light with key on not running? maybe youve gone full field on the charging circuit from a bad regulator or fusible link...

[ncbrock]

Your alternator is capable of producing 70amps. If your van has sat a few weeks, the battery may be low and asking for more amperage to recharge. When you rev the engine the alternator is putting out more amperage than the fuse can handle. I believe the ampacity rating of 16 gauge is maybe 10amps. So, the big question before you try putting a 70amp fuse in that holder is, "What gauge is your charge wire?".

This makes a lot of sense. The only part of the wiring that has been altered in the charging circuit is where the fuse holder has been added. So it is all factory wires until the fuse holder which looks to be around 10 gauge, the factory wires that were spliced are about the same gauge and definitely not “battery cable” thickness. I can get a picture of the wires in question. I need to replace that fuse holder anyways since the holder got fried.

[Burntboot]

Most quality auto parts stores will fusible link wire and ring terminals and you could rig up the equivalent of the factory piece.
Fuses and fusible link do not operate the same way, fuses blow, links slowly melt under excessive amperage.
I'd want to recreate the factory wiring then see if you really have a problem and if so, diagnose it accordingly.

From the Fusible Link Thread, as per Tim

"The "B" in the 1.25B relates to the diameter of the fuse wire. The bigger the wire, the more current it can handle before it blows. I don't have a conversion chart handy, but I'm estimating that 1.25B is equivalent to about 80A. You'd think by the mid 80's Toyota would have been labeling everything in amps &/or using conventional breakers / fuses."

Clearly, a 40Amp fuse isn't going to cut the mustard!

[Yahshoor]

Would you believe that this FL 0.5G fusible link passes a continuity test?

It does!

8726

Going to replace that, just on general principles, according to Tim's water-tight fuse-holder solution. I should probably not be testing continuity with the fusible link removed, right? I should instead be testing by putting one lead of the multimeter on a battery terminal.

Similarly, is there any way to test the FL 2.0L fusible link? I expect that the only thing to do is to cut it out and crimp in a replacement, no? I have not stripped off the "soft grey loose-fitting plastic cover" but I expect that the only thing to do is cut it out. I am reluctant to do so because Tim's description of the symptoms of a failed FL 2.0L fusible link don't match my van's behavior. (That is: no dash lights, dim door light, nasty electrical buzzing sound coming from somewhere near the fusebox and the RPM relay.)

[Burntboot]

As you are starting to find, many years of PO's and questionable repairs (see FL 0.5G pic)
you will start to value the time you "waste" going over things, you will find more scary stuff and eliminating the scary "repairs" is the first step to getting a reliable van.

A continuity test merely looks at "is the wire intact from one end to the other".
Where you choose to measure the one "end" from is your business.
IOW, The circuit doesn't care if you are measuring the continuity with the FL installed or not.
Doing a continuity test will not cause any harm. It also won't tell you the wires ability to handle a load. (again, see pic FL 0.5G)

Fusible links by nature, are designed to MELT under excessive amperage, if its been exposed to such an event, it will be visually obvious. cutting away the insulation would only tell you what state the copper wiring is in (corroded?) but won't really add anything to the diagnostic procedure.

Not having the indications of a problem is a great thing and there is the old sleeping dog thing.
Then again, knowing that this has been an issue for many and if you replaced it now and know its good, its one less thing to be concerned about down the road.
The decision to action FL 2.0L is yours, and yours alone.

[Yahshoor]

The decision to action FL 2.0L is yours, and yours alone.

You know, your response was rather deeper than the one I expected. You are right on the money, though. If I consider your post in the light of the further troubleshooting I've done of the van's electrical system (ugh), cleaning off or clipping out corrosion where warranted, I don't think that "just pierce the housing with the probe" would be a satisfying or meaningful answer. It looks and feels okay, and I didn't need to replace it to get the electrical up and running again, but I would very much enjoy the feeling of not having to worry about it further down the road.

So: FL 2.0L has been added to the List of Dogs to Wake Up Real Soon Now, but not at the top of the list. I'm buying the parts to roll my own fusible links & fuse replacements today, not waiting for my next electrical problem! Many thanks for your input, both technical and otherwise.

[Tonto]

Had to replace 60 amp fuse link(cleaned fuse box). Van ran, new plugs,wires, cap,rotor, fuel pump,won't fire now. Ran previously, missed, burnt plug wire,(even after 12 yr sabbatical). Wondering if I got the wiring right to the 60amp fuse link. Looks right according to schematic, but, not sure.Can anyone tell me, simply, which wires go to the 60amp fuse link(colors)? Rarely join forums, guess I posted wrongly before, Tim.
Thanks for any help.

[Burntboot]

As long as you connected the same 2 wires that were originally connected to the 60A fuse then all should be good, it is fairly difficult to attach a wrong wire there as all the others (in that fuse block) are push connector but the main 60A is a bolt on connection from the backside.

[whatvan]

Looking to tackle this, this weekend. I’ve read this thread through a number of times. Is my understanding correct:

FL 1.25B — Toyota Part #90982-08276 (NLA). If FL box and posts are still intact, replace with 12ga fusible link wire and ring connectors.
— If FL box is destroyed/excessively corroded, replace with 80A slow blow fuse

FL 0.5G — Replace with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse

EFI — Replace with 30A
AM2 — Replace with 30A
Headlight — Replace with 40A
AM1 — Replace with 80A Toyota part #90982-08203

FL 2.0L — Replace by splicing in 12ga fusible link wire


Does it look like I correctly understand what I have read?

[timsrv]

Sounds about right. Please keep in mind though that the only fusible link I have needed to replace is the FL 0.5G (as shown earlier in this thread). That has worked well and there have been no further issues. Regarding the others, unless there are some obvious issues, I wouldn't replace them (especially the ones behind the power steering reservoir). If you do need to replace the 2 big ones by the battery, and assuming they are not available through Toyota, use the information provided on page 2 of this thread to determine suitable replacements. Tim

[whatvan]

Thanks for verifying that Tim.

The plan was to inspect everything this weekend. Based on what I have read in this thread and others, IÂ’m probably doing ok. However, I do like preventative maintenance.

I did need a jump start recently and since then, I have been getting dimming in my headlights when other accessories are used (brake lights, heater) and my cigarette lighter and clock also stopped working.

The battery is newish (I left the lights on during the day) and the battery terminal connectors have been replaced. I understand that it could be a relay and IÂ’ve checked the fuses. However, I figured since Whatvan will be turning 200,000mi pretty soon, I should probably give the FLÂ’s a look-see.

Im continuing down the rabbit hole of electrical threads, any suggestions or links are welcome.

[filterway]

After reading all 5 pages on the forum about Fusible link. There is still some questions...

To make a short story, by an unbelievable distraction, i inverted battery pole while putting a new battery... yep... first time in my 47 years old life (shame on me, don't say more!)

The fusible 1.25B melted. Others fusible links looks ok, but i will change 0.5B with waterproof fuse holder and 15A fuse.

For FL 2.0, I don’t know if is it ok, but I rewired temporarely melted fusible link 1.25B and started the van and everything looks ok.

Questions: If everything look normal, should I change anyway FL 2.0 with 12 ga FL? If yes, which lenght?

I will replace FL 1.25B with 12GA FL wire and ring connectors.

Last question: After putting battery pole the right way, 2 weeks after, the new battery was completely discharged. No sparks on battery pole. Completely dead. Is it possible that a bad FL could drain the battery? Should I test it with a multimeter if there is current passing thru positive battery pole?

[timsrv]

If everything works then your FL 2.0 is good (Assuming it passes a visual test, don't waste your time trying to replace). Having a blown fusible link won't drain the battery. If anything it will prevent your battery from being drained. I'd start by recharging your battery, then check to see if there's a draw. I'm sure you're beyond this, but it's a common mistake for van newbies to not turn the ignition off all the way. Since the ignition tumblers are weak, the key can usually be removed even when its still in the accessory position.

It's also possible the alternator may have a shorted diode. Here's a thread that may aid you in identifying and repairing a draw. Tim

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?807-Slow-battery-drain-procedure-for-checking&highlight=meter+draw+circuit

[filterway]

Thank you Tim!

[Mtn_Van]

When the FL1.25B blows, the van will become completely dead except the charge light will illuminate.

Tim - When I read your words in this post it was like the dark clouds broke and the sun beamed right down on me! Well, at least until I went to check the FL1.25B moments ago and quickly discovered that the FL1.25B, FL2.0L, and FL0.5G are all missing. :rol: I really hope I didn't cook anything. Any advice on what to check/replace in the case that I damaged something major?

All - An exposed part of the alternator charging wire sparked/smoked when it got wet during a recent coolant flush, and the battery degassed a little too.:yes: Do you think I may have cooked some wire? I was thinking of replacing the section from the battery to the +box as a precautionary measure. Or maybe I'll just install the three Fusible Links and then see how she runs. Also, any FL wire pics from all your successful FL updates, in addition to Tim's within this thread, would be most helpful.

[nojokeitschris]

If everything works then your FL 2.0 is good (Assuming it passes a visual test, don't waste your time trying to replace). Having a blown fusible link won't drain the battery. If anything it will prevent your battery from being drained. I'd start by recharging your battery, then check to see if there's a draw. I'm sure you're beyond this, but it's a common mistake for van newbies to not turn the ignition off all the way. Since the ignition tumblers are weak, the key can usually be removed even when its still in the accessory position.

It's also possible the alternator may have a shorted diode. Here's a thread that may aid you in identifying and repairing a draw. Tim

https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?807-Slow-battery-drain-procedure-for-checking&highlight=meter+draw+circuit


tim, quoted you because it appears youÂ’re the man with the plan. The following has nothing to do with the quote. :)

New to me van. 89 2WD with 130k. When I purchased it didn’t run, start...really do anything. I put a battery in it and that got me headlights and the “charge” light on the dash, nothing else. Finally through this thread I determined the problem to be the FL 1.25B. (The FL 0.5G is broken off too but the solution to that one is straight forward...I think). Anyways, I reached under there and sure enough the 1.25 housing is completely melted and unsalvageable. Per this thread, I should replace with an 80a slow blow.

So my question is this: exactly what style fuse and *fuse holder* would you use to do this? All I did was cut the old burned housing out so the 2 wires are still hanging down side by side. The other question is, what size wires are they that ran to the 1.25?

thanks!

[SunnySlowLaneClub]

I have a 1987 van 4wd AT. A couple days ago, the 1.25B fusible link burnt for some unknown reason. I am currently in Mexico so very hard to find a replacement (or anything that would temporarly replace this until i get back to the U.S). I built a new one with a local mecanic. I should probably say that i bought the van with an ignition bypass (have to turn the key to run and push a momentary switch to start it) and have no idea why the owner before me did this. This makes that the starter is not connected to that 1.25B Fusible Link (but alternator is). Now that i got the "new" fusible link in, i noticed that one of the wires (green one. Not the white with blue line one.) gets suuuuuper hot when the van is running. Any idea why and what is causing this? I'm planning on starting my journey up north and dont want the fusible link to keep burning every once in a while... I have pictures but can't seem to understand how to put them on here

[Burntboot]

If you go back to page 1 of this thread, Tim details the green wire well.

He also makes a note about the potential for "thermal runaways", so best to get it sorted before heading out on the road.

[Paddycakes]

Are the 4 Pal fuses in fusible link box behind passenger seat considered fast acting or slow burn?

That box in my van is disintegrated, I was looking at redoing that whole box with some aftermarket maxi blade fuse block.

[timsrv]

I'm not sure what the actual burn time is, but fusible links in general are slow burn. They are designed to tolerate overloads for short periods, but they should burn out before the wire is damaged. If I were doing this repair, assuming new OE parts are non-available, I would try to find a used one (perhaps one of those on-line parts locators). If that didn't pan out and I was stuck with a non-stock repair, I'd probably use resetable DC breakers or slow burn fuses of the same values. Tim

[Paddycakes]

Thanks for the reply, I'll do some more looking around for OE replacement but at this point I'm probably just use this fuse block or something similar Blue Sea Systems 7725 Safety HUB Fuse Block 100 RBS https://a.co/d/4RGYxZ0 for the 40a headlight, 30a am2, 30a EFI. The 60a am1 I'll look for something inline. I heard good things about the blue sea systems fuse blocks from people eliminating fusible links/redoing circuits on old 5.9 Cummins.

[Tylerelfering]

Hello I am looking to find out the color of the wire that goes from the wiring harness to the yellow fusibe link that connects to the positive battery terminal. Currently I just have to wires going straight to the positive battery terminal.

[Burntboot]

Post #1, pic #5

[ChetsJug]

Just went to local dealer...


Ask around in the ham radio repair world where you would find a store that sells Surplus or New Old Stock like fusible links. In Los Angeles I know of two stores one https://www.ametron.com/ that is as big as a Walmart and another store that is in the San Fernando Valley called Apex Electronics which happens to have a YouTube video documentary on it. They've got New Old Stock from the 40s. It would be worth looking at these stores in your searches for such things as usable links because they went on all kinds of studio equipment as well

[outlawmws]

OK I had issues on my annual hunting trip yesterday and lost nearly all the accessory Lights, and all the electrical based gauges: It still ran, and I booked 35 miles for town. made that and decided (since the alt belt was good and the Alt new) tried to get home. Battery gave out in Vacaville and I was towed to O'Rileys, Long story short, I got a new battery and drove home.

Thanks to this thread it led me to the well hidden AM1 fuse:
For:
AM1:its not listed as 60A but 80A by Toyota? (might be availability)
AM2/EFI 30A fuse is apparently available
Headlight Fuse 40A, Also apparently available

These, as noted in the thread are PAL class, and available from NAPA as PLA30, PLA40 and PLA 80 replacements:

NAPA #s: (Found on the rack, in fuses...)
PLA80 = 782-2034 (A<!
PLA 30 = 782-2026 (AM2/EFI)
PLA40 = 782-2029 (headlight fuse)

The 30s and 40's are plug and play. The AM1 requires dismounting the block (10 MM bolts, use a 16" 3/8's extension from the bottom for one, the other either needs a universal, or "by feel" from the top I used my SK 3/6's drive in a 1/4" ratchet and a long 10 mm Socket for #2.

DO take the ground off the Battery for the next step; these wires are hot!

AM1 is held with an 8MM on one side and a 6MM on the other. Same ratchet above, std sockets.

The Factory Fuse is NOT slotted, so full screw removal is required. I recommend reattaching the wire as you go if the replacement fuse is slotted. If it is not, I'd suggest making it slotted!

One of my covers refused to stay snapped in place (the one from the bottom) It got Duct tape now.


Not sure Upload Images is working for me:

[outlawmws]

New Fuses and old:

Nope - Only the one image worked? :wall:


I don't know what is going on to upload an image properly seems haphazard.

[outlawmws]

I do have one question for the Forum: for the main "Small fuse panel" in the passenger foot well - Does any one have a "map" for which is which? I don't have a cover on mine (likely where the map is) adn I particularity want to find the one for the "charging Circuit" as that could also have been my problem... There are also 2 fuses, (7.5 and 20) in a capsule right next to the main panel -what are those for?

[Jan-Willem]

12260
IGN STOP GAUGE CHARGE TAIL
—— DOME ECU-IG DEFOG HEAD(lh)
ENGINE AC WIPER TURN HEAD(rh)
—RADIO CIG FOG HAZ-HORN

[outlawmws]

Thank you Jan!

Sorry for the delayed response, I was driving the van's wheels off on a camping trip!

[Dr.Roob]

Thanks TVT and special thanks to Kcg795. I have power again.
Always a wealth of good info here when I run into trouble.
Happy New Year everyone and keep on Vannin’ :drive::thmbup:
Doc

[Ian R.]

The 1.25B fusible link failed on my van this weekend. I started the van up and drove a short while when I noticed the charge and brake light came on. I pulled over and turned off the van to check the fuse box. Everything looked good so I started it back up and drive a little further before I decided to park it in and inspect further. After some more inspection I tried to start the van, but only got the charge light when I turned the ignition on. Then I checked the 1.25B and it was toast. Melted the black holder. But the harness side was still intact. Luckily Napa had 12 gauge primary fusible link wire and crimp-on ring ends. I took out the bolts from the FL holder and connected the 6” piece of FL wire and wrapped the ends with electrical tape as a temporary solution to get the van back home.

For those out there the fusible link fails slow and electrical components go out in a cascade unlit nothing works.

I think I am going to use this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7821143?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Catch-All&campaign_id=6478877959&adgroup_id=79272987338&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPpywgToXUr8MLZnnTZzShq4bfTHTZUdas8Bf 2H3JO4jgXBT7lTybcxoCUqYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4 and fusible link wire rather that a 80 amp slow burn fuse and holder since the harness is still in good shape.

[originalkwyjibo]

I think I am going to use this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7821143?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Catch-All&campaign_id=6478877959&adgroup_id=79272987338&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPpywgToXUr8MLZnnTZzShq4bfTHTZUdas8Bf 2H3JO4jgXBT7lTybcxoCUqYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4 and fusible link wire rather that a 80 amp slow burn fuse and holder since the harness is still
in good shape.
FYI, those things are massive. I recently went down this road with one of my vans when I upgraded to the 105 amp Suzuki Denso alternator and had a hard time finding a good place to mount it. For the 105 amp upgrade I ended up going with a 120 amp fuse from an '04 Mitsubishi Outlander but this style fuse is used on a number of late 90s to early 2000s imports and are readily available and are also available in 80 amp as well as other amperages. I presume them to be spark proof like the mega fuse since they are mounted directly to the battery. My other van got fusible link wire from the parts store like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2C1SHN/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NPara ms
I still have the original style battey clamps so this bolted right on along with the upgraded 4 gauge charge cable to the alternator. You do have to be able to make your battery connections at 90 degrees since they stack under the fuse and you would have to extend the wire up to the battery terminal from it's current location but then it eliminates a major electrical connection right behind the mudflap. I got mine from the junkyard along with the fuse and terminal cover and a spare fuse from another car to keep in the glovebox.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184427781593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20221 018081743%26meid%3Db8d77fa992a54a3c8c88e7478e36f4d 3%26pid%3D101429%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D382697 690436%26itm%3D184427781593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26 pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuW ithRevOptLambda85KnnRecallV1FitmentPromotionM2CPCA uto%26brand%3DMitsubishi&_trksid=p2332490.c101429.m2460&amdata=cksum%3A184427781593b8d77fa992a54a3c8c88e74 78e36f4d3%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABME%252FZeabQWL56BYidmJ2Q eOraOMr9xBt4nn1YO9kq0MWMS9GIXaJp85zBkgsiZznp2eCQug 97LTuNg0hDr%252FGhXvJsQIh%252BU2vQs0sUJUsDts1RmhZA aTbf5qJYz0ap3PSKC%252F35xLHZa4eFEGcPaypZvPbQFPtjb9 e%252ByV9mLuQ66D4bhVGjZy69pwzpV251Yp%252FuHczAFjcL wcdIXq3dZ%252Fa0itUrdInst9QbpqjOkgm1f9r1er%252FyJO t4DgYfbL40C88sbHDAaRb73mYF1GwlHs1%252BTgVAM4xdmAwy 1TNsBIwd6DzNMZIePa1wtmmv1GLTH30zLRAs8zyH2YQWRhsTSl tX9gU7kOTlNLGrF3qZ0Vynp1OVwMIKj6wGLd4P4OFwaF3mbJuI FUx9U1dQ1E2W1L3g%252F8o%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Ccl p%3A2332490
When I get around to upgrading battery cables on the second van I will likely use this fuse setup again.

[87spaceghostc2c]

Im so confused on my 87 the 1.25 is pulled into the battery box which made sense to me after seeing this but i cannot figure out where this yellow FL 0.5G fusible link is located. The wiring is surprisingly very clean on my van it was well taken care of for the most part but im having issues with either a FL or my starter has gone to crap. It is very dirty so imagine that could be it too. I should probably clean the connections. I've seen the videos where folks add a starter relay as well so that could be a future project.

sorry i dont know where to post as im new and im not sure what the issue is but when i go to turn the key i just get this electric click sound thats super quiet. If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash... I love this van i really need to get it in a reliable condition and i know i cant keep using a jump box or I'm going to cause more problems.

other than this the vans got 175k miles and in pretty good condition

also need a new windshield but that's a different pain in the butt finding the thing for a different thread. Luckily i don't have to have the van inspected where i live.\
if im in the wrong thread please let me know! thanks!:dizzy:

[89van]

when i go to turn the key i just get this electric click sound thats super quiet. If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash.

not positive what drivetrain your van has but here's an opinion* on both:

-If your van has a manual transmission: There is a Clutch Safety Switch and a Starter Relay. I would check this relay (Sometimes if relays click, it doesn't mean it's good necessarily!) and the switch for proper operation; an intermittent start sounds like it could be a bad relay imo.

-If your van has an automatic, we have a Neutral Start Switch; this switch allows the starter to engage only in N or P; have you checked if the issue continues if you put it in P then into N, and vice versa?



As for the christmas lights, I believe there is a thread on here that discusses them, search tool will help a lot here. If your alternator is going full-field, that is not good at all! Well undercharging isn't good either too.
*I've had starter troubles in the past; starters for these vans haven't been made in decades and Remanufactured ones are a hit or miss unfortunately. Also consulting my 1989 wiring diagram too from a brisk flip through.

[outlawmws]

If i use a jumper it starts right up but i dont want to keep doing that. Ive changed the alternator and i have a brand new battery so i feel like its the starter or that FL. Oddly sometimes it will start on its own without the jumper but rarely.

Oh i will also add until the new alternator i had permanent Christmas lights, now when i first get it started the lights are on but then they cut off and then when im driving down the street they will all randomly flash...

also need a new windshield but that's a different pain in the butt finding the thing for a different thread.


I'd test the battery cables for resistance, and make sure every connection is "Clean Bright and tight" you are halfway there on the Xmas lighting. The starter needs no resistance for it to run.


I found a reasonable deal on the windshield and new rubber, and I had it installed by a mobile service.

[87spaceghostc2c]

not positive what drivetrain your van has but here's an opinion* on both:

-If your van has a manual transmission: There is a Clutch Safety Switch and a Starter Relay. I would check this relay (Sometimes if relays click, it doesn't mean it's good necessarily!) and the switch for proper operation; an intermittent start sounds like it could be a bad relay imo.

-If your van has an automatic, we have a Neutral Start Switch; this switch allows the starter to engage only in N or P; have you checked if the issue continues if you put it in P then into N, and vice versa?



As for the christmas lights, I believe there is a thread on here that discusses them, search tool will help a lot here. If your alternator is going full-field, that is not good at all! Well undercharging isn't good either too.
*I've had starter troubles in the past; starters for these vans haven't been made in decades and Remanufactured ones are a hit or miss unfortunately. Also consulting my 1989 wiring diagram too from a brisk flip through.

Thanks for the response it is an automatic transmission i went ahead and updated profile to clear that up in the future. I have not yet tried this in N only in P i think i was frustrated to the point of not thinking about that. I had previously done some research and read that this was a potential factor(neutral start switch). Ordered a remanufactured starter last night so hopefully i can figure something out before it gets here and return it. Regardless ill keep the old one too. Id rather have not bought that.

Reading about the alternator potentially going full field is what made me think about the FL in the first place. As well as noticing my lights were flashing in a weird way. Ill check out that thread as well.
Ill be honest i knew nothing of this type of fuse until i got this van.(vans 3 years older than me)

also going to test for resistance and clean all my connections up. I appreciate the advice!

[MarkH]

I kept having the "click" problem on my starter, even with new starters. I eventually checked the voltage coming from the starter solenoid wire. It was only 9-11v, which I guess wasn't enough to reliably engage the solenoid. I disconnected the few connectors on that wire and cleaned them up with electrical contact cleaner. Now the voltage is higher and it starts every time. I don't know if this could be something to do with your starter issues, but it wouldn't cause weird lights in the dash.

[87spaceghostc2c]

I kept having the "click" problem on my starter, even with new starters. I eventually checked the voltage coming from the starter solenoid wire. It was only 9-11v, which I guess wasn't enough to reliably engage the solenoid. I disconnected the few connectors on that wire and cleaned them up with electrical contact cleaner. Now the voltage is higher and it starts every time. I don't know if this could be something to do with your starter issues, but it wouldn't cause weird lights in the dash.


Finally have a day to try this so i plan to. Weird enough the past two days i got in the van started it up it sounded new no lights flashing. Super confused. It did remind me that the previous owner gave me a list and one of those things was a "wet start" issue. Its been raining the past week. I also personally thing the battery connections are over exposed and i still dont think it would hurt to clean the starter. I would like to know why this thing wouldn't want to start when its been raining alot.

The previous owner definitely did stuff to benefit this van but now its like playing wheres waldo. I need to find his number.