Article: Cleaning the Throttle Body

[timsrv]

The throttle body is a pretty simple component but after years of service the internal passages can become clogged/dirty & the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) begins to fail. For these reasons I recommend cleaning the throttle body and replacing the TPS on any van with 150k or more miles. Here's my method of disassembling, cleaning, and adjustment.

This is a throttle body I pulled from a parts van. It will take a couple days soaking in Chem-Dip, so I can drive my van while this is being worked on, then I can swap it out with the one on my daily driver when it's ready.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2204-Copy_zpsd0b1b6c0.jpg

Chem-Dip is a pretty harsh cleaning chemical. So harsh that it will eat rubber & plastic parts. Before soaking the throttle body in this it must be disassembled. Toyota didn't intend for these throttle bodies to be easily disassembled, but I have worked out a way to get the job done. The 1st challenge is the screws holding the butterfly to the throttle shaft. After installation Toyota crushed the threaded ends of these screws against the side of the shaft. To make matters worse, they used an unusual screw size (M3.5 X 0.6). So unless you plan on drilling & re-tapping the throttle shaft (to accept a more common screw size), you will need to save & re-use these.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2205-Copy_zps9fd75366.jpg

Use a Dremel with a metal cutting fiberglass/abrasive wheel to carefully grind the crushed portion of the screws off. Don't stop until they are flush with the shaft. It will save you time later to also make an identifying scratch in the butterfly so you can orient it the same way when it's time to go back together.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2210-Copy_zpsddf6e94a.jpg

While you have your Dremel out grind some slots to allow removal of the idle adjust screw cover.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2219-Copy_zps37042488.jpg

Now it's time to remove the TPS........just two screws and it pulls straight off the shaft.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2207-Copy_zps71daef2c.jpg

Next remove the nut, the cable guide, throttle return spring, and other associated parts from the throttle shaft. Take a picture or make notes so you can put this back the same way later.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2208-Copy_zpsf4dc322c.jpg

Now the 3.5mm screws can be removed from the shaft & the butterfly can be removed. Note: These screws are a bit "soft" so be sure to use a high quality #2 Phillips screwdriver bit & make sure the tip is in good condition. Bear down hard on the screws when you rotate. You will only get one shot at this & these screw heads strip out easy. Sometimes the crushed threads extend up in the shaft area a bit so occasionally these screws are hard to remove. Remember when I said "you'll only get one shot at this"?...........well I might have lied just a little :wnk:. That was to get your attention so you'd try your best! :yes:. Sometimes even when you do everything right the heads still strip :(:. When this happens use your Dremel to make the Phillips heads into slot tips. Remember, you will still want to re-use these & this is your last shot..........unless you drill and tap for new screws........so be careful and do a good job. After the screws are out remove the butterfly.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2211-Copy_zps757dcc04.jpg

Now the throttle shaft can be removed.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2212-Copy_zpsec2e26b3.jpg

Take a slot tip screwdriver and gently pry out the throttle shaft seals.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2220-Copy_zpsd6b877d7.jpg

These typically pop right out.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2221-Copy_zps6190ebd4.jpg

When it comes to your idle adjust screw, get a slot tip screwdriver and while counting revolutions, turn it clock-wise until it bottoms out. Record the number of turns for future reference and then remove it. Sometimes the rubber o-ring will make it difficult to remove. If you have one, a screw holding screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-K44-16-Inch-Screw-Holding-Screwdriver/dp/B00093DYGK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1420960344&sr=8-7&keywords=screw+holding+screwdriver+slot) works well for extracting the idle screw. If you don't have that then it can be "blown out" by using compressed air through the exit port. If you use the compressed air method cup your hand under the screw so you don't lose it. Once removed, carefully remove the rubber o-ring from the idle screw and save for later. The other parts on the throttle body are pretty self explanatory. If you don't already have some, go to your local parts store and get yourself a gallon of Chem-Dip (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Berryman-Chem-Dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/_/N-25uv?itemIdentifier=139313_0_0_). Remember this stuff is nasty so read the directions and avoid skin contact. Load all the metal parts into the basket (included inside the gallon container) and lower into the can. Put the cover back on the can and forget about it for a couple of days. Hint: Chem-Dip will eat almost anything, but it will work better if you remove excess dirt before dipping. Also, I recommend scraping/cleaning all old gasket material prior to soaking. Soaking won't always remove gasket material so it's better to get it off before hand. Another thing to consider is how long you may want to keep/use your Chem-dip. The more junk it eats-up the less effective it becomes. The can I'm using now is one I've had for over 10 years. It's getting weak, but it still does the job.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2237-Copy_zps263897fe.jpg

Okay, so a couple days have passed, now it's time to get back to it. Use a pair of pliers or a wire hanger to hook the basket and pull out of the Chem-Dip. Have another container of an appropriate size ready to set the basket in. I use Mineral spirits to dilute and remove the residual Chem dip. After the parts are covered with mineral spirits I agitate the basket to rinse. Now parts can be removed one at a time and a parts cleaning brush is used, then compressed air to blow dry.......Be sure to use eye protection!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2239-Copy_zpsfbd520d1.jpg

Could these be the same parts I had before? :thmbup: Okay, the TPS is new, but everything else is original!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2248-Copy_zpsa8ea7537.jpg

The old shaft seals will usually push right in with just thumb pressure. I'm using a synthetic lubricant with PTFE to lubricate the throttle shaft seals & bores.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2251-Copy_zps02c2429c.jpg

After installing the throttle shaft & aligning the butterfly, I clean the burrs off the shaft screws threads & apply some semi-permanent Lock-Tite.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2253-Copy_zpsfddce912.jpg

Screws are installed but left loose. Before final tightening allow butterfly to self center by closing throttle all the way & then tapping on it & the shaft. The periphery of the butterfly is precision machined at an angle to match the inside of the throttle body, so Make sure it's oriented correctly! Without the throttle stop assembled, while closed it should make an air-tight seal. Hold it up to the light to verify it's centered & intimate with the throttle body bore. Once you're satisfied tighten the screws.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2255_zps8f323978.jpg

O-ring is installed on idle screw and lube applied.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2257_zpsf1cfaa7f.jpg

Idle screw is installed & bottomed out. Next we back it out the number of turns previously recorded.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2258_zps9a5c37bc.jpg

Throttle shaft built up with return spring, cable guide & associated parts. Nut is installed and tightened.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2260_zpsbb299209.jpg

New throttle position sensor is installed & other misc pieces of throttle body are put back like before.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2263_zpsb23f1e23.jpg

And here's the end result :dance2:.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_2264_zps8bb3d5e1.jpg

Now that the throttle body is reassembled the only thing left to do is adjust the TPS & install it on your van. Here is a video on how to do this (click on the image below to view video).


https://youtu.be/Ku1EMEYRMgk

Before you install check the condition of the throttle body coolant hoses. If soft or deteriorated now is a good time to replace. I suppose a bulk 5/16" or 8mm hose could be used here, but the bends are rather tight and you may end up with a crimped hose. Last time I needed these they were still available through Toyota. They are part #16267-73010 & 16264-73021. You'll also want a new throttle body gasket & that one is Toyota part ##22271-73011 & sells for ~$5. Tim

[gushaman]

i have an 87 4wd five speed :) and it has a dashpot on the throttle body. what exactly does this do?

[timsrv]

It's an emission device. It's job is to delay return to idle while you are decelerating. For some reason that reduces emissions. Occasionally you will find one that sticks and/or will not allow the throttle to return to idle at all (this is usually what happens when they fail). These are NLA from Toyota & haven't been available for some time. If you find a bad one just take it off and throw it away (bad ones do more harm than good). I like keeping things original so whenever I find 5 speed vans in the salvage yard (which is hardly ever) I always take the dash pots and save them.

For those of you who don't know what the dash pot is, here's a picture of one from a previous throttle body I cleaned. It's the black component in the top right of the picture below:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/Throttle%20Body/IMG_1456-Copy_zps78835a4a.jpg

[skibum]

I will be remembering this thread :thmbup: . I saw that my carb on the '88 that I got was pretty dirty, when I had the head off. I just sprayed the crap out of it with carb cleaner and brushed and scraped it as best I could (assembled). The finished product in your case is really looking good. I almost hope I have trouble now, so I can take it back off and do it right :)

[timsrv]

For anybody planning to do this, I thought I'd mention it's a very good idea to have a M3.5X0.6 tap & same size die available before hand. As stated earlier this is an uncommon thread size & I wouldn't expect to find these in a regular tap & die set. After you get the screws out of the shaft use the tap to clean-up the shaft threads & the die to clean-up the screw threads. In my experience the tap & die are much easier to find than new screws. Here's a couple links to them on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-x-6-Metric-Right-hand-Die-M3-5-x-0-6mm-Pitch-/110773235699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ca996ff3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hanson-Whitney-M3-5-x-0-6-Hand-Plug-Tap-D4-3FL-HSS-Made-in-USA-/261917409256?hash=item3cfb7e7fe8:g:qPoAAOSwZd1VcmB c

In case those links go bad, here they are again on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Metric-Taper-Thread-0-6mm/dp/B010SJKTGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459120605&sr=8-1&keywords=M3.5+x+0.6+tap

http://www.amazon.com/New-3-5mm-Metric-M3-5-Pitch/dp/B00IROL4P6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1427042853&sr=8-13&keywords=M3.5+x+0.6+die

[Reducto]

Nice article! Couple of question:
Did you replace the shaft seals or were they in good enough shape to reuse?
Are all of the throttle bodies interchangeable? Like, could I grab one off an '85 automatic, rebuild it, and put it on my '89 5-speed? I only seem to find early vans in the junkyards.

[timsrv]

I've probably done a dozen of these so far and have never found bad seals. Before I did the 1st one I searched for seals but other than the TPS Toyota doesn't break the throttle body down or list individual parts. If I recall correctly you can get aftermarket heavy duty seals for some of the other Toyota throttle bodies (for guys running turbos & superchargers). I suspect they would be the same diameters but don't know that for sure. Since these seals are fairly well sheltered & because they are easy to remove/reinstall I have always just re-used. Perhaps I've been lucky but these don't seem to get much wear & tear.

All vans 84-89 use the same throttle body. The only variable is manual transmission vans have a dash pot & the autos do not. The casting of the body is the same on all so you could always take the dash pot off one & add it to another. I did a cross reference with the EPC and according to that this particular throttle body was only used on the vans. I suspect there may be some other throttle bodies that may interchange, but not sure what the differences would be.

If you were looking to adapt a throttle body from another application, the vehicles listed below would likely show the most promise (these use the same TPS as the van). Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/TPSapplications_zps0e4cddd6.jpg

[gushaman]

i have a few questions, too.
If the idle air screw has been monkeyed with, is there a specific number of turns that it should be? on a particular lpg regulator on a forklift it is 4.5 turns from bottom, but that is just a starting point,it is usually adjusted about a half turn either way, if the other components in the system are in correct specs.

also the throttle stop screw was loose so where should it be???

I am trying to adjust the TPS on an extra throttle body, so I can just swap them out (CEL is showing the tps code) but my meter doesnt do sound. what range setting should I use? with out the leads attached, it shows 000, then if i touch them together it blinks a bunch of numbers, and then shows 001??? i am lost

[timsrv]

The factory setting for the idle adjustment screw is approx 1 3/4 turns CCW after being bottomed out. The idle stop screw is set to hold the tang of the cable guide approx .095 away from touching the aluminum tab the stop screw is threaded into. Regardless of what meter you use & it's accuracy, when set to ohms it will at least tell you the difference of continuity vs no continuity. Continuity is what it reads when the probes are touched together, no continuity is what it reads when the probes not touching. Regardless of what yours says when probes are touching, that's what you should see when you find that "magic spot". Keep in mind you're seeking out the illusive spot where it transistions from continuity to no continuity, so your meter could fall on either side of the transistional spot. Even if it's a tad off, you'll still be "in the zone". If your meter is not quality enough to tell the difference between continuity/no continuity, then perhaps it's time to find another meter. Tim

[gushaman]

lol yes, tim, it is time for a nicer meter, i have a nice older craftsman, but the fuse that does resistance is out, and i cant find a suitable replacement fuse. i think maybe the old tps i have is bad, but cant confirm it. i found a sweet spot using the 2000 ohms setting, but when i re tested it it failed.

thank you for the response, where did you find that info, by the way? is it in the manual?

[timsrv]

I've gone through a few throttle bodies and was able to remember the idle set screw setting. For the throttle stop setting I grabbed an extra throttle body I have laying around with the anti-tamper paint still on the idle stop screw & I measured it :D. Then just for kicks I bottomed out the idle screw & verified 1 3/4 turns :thmbup:.

As for older TPS units, unless you know how many miles it has (and it's under 100k) I wouldn't trust it. Over time the contacts inside become "iffy". If it still completes the circuit(s) it will likely connect at different spots each time you cycle the throttle. If you're trying to save money, you might try aftermarket. The last 5 or 6 of them I've installed were Beck Arnley #158-0503 & they seem to be quality units. So far none have given any issues. I usually stock up on them when RockAuto has a sale (around $20 each). Their normal price is around $35 each. Tim

[gushaman]

calibrated new TPS this evening, removed old throttle body, and found that it has been disconnected for years. the contacts in the plug were green with corrosion. supposedly this engine was swapped in from a 4wd 5speed, but there is no dashpot.......I imagine he just didnt know it was unplugged. Now I have a clean throttle body, with a new sensor. van starts and runs better than ever, just need to replace coolant temp sensor, and reset my timing and i think it will be great. Thanks Tim!

[timsrv]

calibrated new TPS this evening, removed old throttle body, and found that it has been disconnected for years. the contacts in the plug were green with corrosion. supposedly this engine was swapped in from a 4wd 5speed, but there is no dashpot.......I imagine he just didnt know it was unplugged. Now I have a clean throttle body, with a new sensor. van starts and runs better than ever, just need to replace coolant temp sensor, and reset my timing and i think it will be great. Thanks Tim!

Awesome! :dance1:. That's certainly not the 1st time I've seen a TPS disconnected. I did this job once & then went check my timing & could get no advance when I pulled the "check engine connector" jumper. I also noticed it was blinking a TPS code. I was like "damn, I got a bad TPS".........that's when I noticed the TPS connector dangling there :LOL2:. I felt stupid but at least it was an easy fix. All issues were quickly resolved when I plugged that connector back in :yes:. Tim

[mahleek87]

Awesome! :dance1:. That's certainly not the 1st time I've seen a TPS disconnected. I did this job once & then went check my timing & could get no advance when I pulled the "check engine connector" jumper. I also noticed it was blinking a TPS code. I was like "damn, I got a bad TPS".........that's when I noticed the TPS connector dangling there :LOL2:. I felt stupid but at least it was an easy fix. All issues were quickly resolved when I plugged that connector back in :yes:. Tim



Just noticed my TPS was also disconnected this morning. Im gonna try to connect it back later today and see if I can zip tie it to the TPS to prevent it from being disconnected again.

Question... If the TPS is bad, will the check engine light come on? Or could a bad tps never signal the check engine light to come on? I think I have put more then 150K on my van since I replaced this 5-7 years ago.

[timsrv]

A bad or disconnected TPS will trigger a code inside the ECU but may not necessarily make your "check engine light" illuminate. To read codes you'll need to jump the CEL connector & count the blinks. Since it's been disconnected you will likely have a TPS code, so you'll need to clear that and drive for a while to see if it comes back. If it doesn't, then you're golden. Tim

PS: These connectors are pretty solid as far as accidentally falling off. If yours is doing this it's either damaged or missing the little locking spring clip.

[timsrv]

I just did another one of these and this time destroyed both screws. I was able to drill & remove without damaging the threads on the shaft. Then I got lucky enough to find some replacement screws on eBay. I estimate the originals to be 10mm in length, so these will likely be a tad long (12mm). Still, this diameter & thread size is rare, so I feel lucky to have found these (can always be shortened if necessary). Here's a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331133794408&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160. Since I had to buy 100 of them, I'll probably never need them all. If anybody else runs into this issue and needs some screws, PM me your address and I'll mail you a couple. :D Tim

[JFratzke]

Tim what are you using for TPS replacement these days? I searched pretty hard on toyotapartszone for one the other night and couldn't find it.

[timsrv]

We have discussed this a few times here, and again just a few days ago. This is a good thread for this discussion though (better than the other places it's been posted). Here's a few quotes from the last time it was discussed. Tim


Clear codes, drive it some more & recheck codes. If #51 comes back you most likely have a bad TPS. These are a common failed part on the van. If it's got more than 150k miles on it or if you don't know how old it is, then I'd just replace. Testing these per the manual is a somewhat involved process. I'm not saying he didn't do it right, but it's hard to imagine your average mechanic going to this much effort (it would be hard to do with the throttle body installed). Even if he did do everything right, when these get old they become intermittent. Bottom line? For a $35 part it's not worth messing with. I replace these like some people replace spark plugs. If I'm doing a tune-up and I see code 51, I won't even mess around with trying to clean or whatever. Just replace it and be done with it :lol:. Tim

PS: If it's newer and you know it's got less than 100k miles on it, then perhaps it's worth a little more consideration. But for me, my time is more valuable than messing with a questionable TPS. Tim


thanks, tim. i'm going to do it. i see that the part on 1sttoyotaparts.com is almost $70 and on rockauto.com is $32 (beck/arnley). that's a big difference. is it worth spending the extra bux for the toyota part?



I used to think so, but a while back www.rockauto.com had one of their "closeout" sales and I picked-up "the last 6" of the Beck Arnley #1580503 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=482317&cc=1279841) units for $18 each. Of course they weren't the last 6 (but were certainly the last 6 I've seen at that price). I took the cover off the 1st one and inspected before installation (thought it looked good). These Beck Arnley units are made in Italy (not sure if that matters) & appear to be of high quality. That was about 4 years ago and I've since used them all (and then some) on different vans I've worked on. I just ordered another one last week (sucked having to pay ~$35 for it), but it's a lot better than $70 something from Toyota. Unless these aftermarket ones start dropping dead, I'm not buying any more from Toyota. Tim

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/Fuel%20system/RockautoTPS_zps0569de15.jpg

BTW, the last one of these I got was off of Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CB1VR8/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's listed for a few cents more, but if you have Prime shipping is free and it will show up in just a couple days (so it's a better deal overall). If you click on the link, ignore the picture in the Amazon listing (it's wrong). The part you get will be the correct one. Tim

[Reducto]

Then I got lucky enough to find some replacement screws on eBay.

For future reference, Mcmaster Carr has these screws with a variety of head types. I'm always amazed by how much weird stuff they have and how fast they're able to ship. I think you need to set up a business account with them, but last time I did that I just used the name and address I worked at and used my own credit card with no issues.

[timsrv]

I always forget about these guys. I used to purchase a lot of stuff through them when I was a tool maker. It's amazing how much stuff they have. Thanks for pointing that out. Tim

[ninz30]

i will be doing this soon! Awesome write up

[pinkgrips236]

Just a quick question for those of you that have removed/installed TBs :

how necessary is it to drain the coolant before pulling the TB? the manual says to drain it, but I just put all that darn stuff back in there!

will I get a few bits of spillage, or am I looking at losing it all anyway if I don't drain it.

[timsrv]

Fortunately the throttle body is the high point in the system. I would pull the radiator/filler cap & drain about a cup out of your radiator petcock. After that you should be able to pull the TB hoses & work on it with little more than a few drips. Tim

[ninz30]

I thought you only had to drain the coolant if you remove the upper intake manifold?

the two hoses on the throttle body are by-pass hoses and will hardly leak at all.... Tim is right tho just drain a cup or so

[pinkgrips236]

I wound up draining about a cup of coolant. When the TB finally came off, no extra coolant spilled out.

The two bypass hoses are pretty worn looking, so we'll go for some new ones.

With everything off, I'm thinking about replacing the vacuum hoses for the TB. They all read #0 which I'm guessing is the size of the hose?

[timsrv]

Here's a quote from another thread:


Regarding the vacuum line (the small stuff like what runs across the top of the throttle body), this can be substituted for standard aftermarket sizes at the parts store but I've found the fit isn't perfect (either too small or too big). The small is more secure and less likely to fall off, but pushing it over the nipples stretches it a bit beyond it's design limitations (makes it prone to cracked ends). The other problem is the little looms that fit over the hose (for organization) don't fit the aftermarket stuff right. For this reason I prefer Toyota vacuum hose. Toyota sells it in predetermined lengths from 300 mm (about 1 foot) to 2600 mm (about 8 1/2 foot). Here's the Toyota part numbers & current pricing (at the time of this post):


90999-92002 300mm $5.46 (~$5.46 per ft)
90999-92003 600mm $2.53 (~$1.26 per ft)
90999-92004 950mm $13.33 (~$4.44 per ft)
90999-92006 1300mm $21.38 (~$5.35 per ft)
90999-92007 1650mm $36.78 (~$7.36 per ft)
90999-92008 2600mm $52.18 (~$6.14 per ft)



Note, this is current MSRP (what you'd pay if you walk into your local Toyota parts counter). If you order it via one of the discount Toyota parts sites, you can save up to 30% (before shipping), but as you can see, the cheapest way to get is purchasing in 600 mm lengths (about 2 ft). The good news about this size vacuum hose is Toyota uses it on almost everything they make so they're not likely to run out any time soon. Tim

[bareskier]

my latest and most current need for help is with the throttle body rebuild. everything is off and ready to go into the chemical bath but... the screw under the rubber cover (idle screw) backs all the way out but stops short by 1/4" of coming out of the hole. i've tried air- but with no joy. the screw just spins after backing it out. it will tighten back down each time but after several tries to unscrew it, it just wont go that last bit so i can get a grip on it. what am i missing in the process?
i'm stumped. anyone have any suggestions?
thanks- mike

[timsrv]

I assume you've already read the 1st post in this thread.........right? That screw has an o-ring on the head, and it grips the bore (makes it hard to remove). I use a screw holding screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-K44-16-Inch-Screw-Holding-Screwdriver/dp/B00093DYGK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1420960344&sr=8-7&keywords=screw+holding+screwdriver+slot) & it comes right out every time, but if you don't have one it might be a PITA. Air should work, but it can be difficult to seal your air gun against the port. A rubber tipped air nozzle would work much better than a standard one. Tim

[bareskier]

thanks tim for the soft knock on the head. i do remember reading the post with the link and thinking - wow , i finally get to use my starter screw driver after all these years its sat in my tool box neglected.
it must be that forest and the trees thing. or more likely the aging process at work.
i got it out in seconds. thanks
where can i pick up a gasket for the t body, toyota wants too much and will take too long. do any other vehicles use this same t body gasket - do you or anyone know? also what is the name of the lube with pfte you use for the seals and o-ring.
my idle screw was 1 3/4 turns to bottom. sound about right. how would one remedy this once installed without pulling it apart again? would this keep it from starting or just idle crappy??
thanks as always for the assistance. - mike

[timsrv]

If you don't want the Toyota gasket, then start calling auto parts businesses. I'm guessing it's a dealer item, but somebody might have one. If you find one on the cheap, please post so the rest of us will know too. There's always the paper stuff they sell for cutting out your own gaskets too. That lube I'm using is Radio Shack part #64-2301A. I use it because I like the applicator, but I'm sure others will work just as well. I've had it for years, so wouldn't surprise me if they don't carry it anymore.

That screw is simply to make fine adjustments to your idle speed. 1 3/4 turn is just the starting point or approx setting. If it's off, the worst that can happen is your idle RPM's might not be exact. It won't affect starting. Once it's been warmed up and the timing has been set, you use that screw to set the idle speed. Tim

[bareskier]

greetings
i assembled the t body and hit a stumbling point. or maybe everything is as it should be. my t body was encrusted with carbon and black soot at the start so i could not tell to note whether or not my finished job is correct or not.
it appears to work as intended but the shaft and disc come to rest at an angle a little less than 45 degrees. it does not close flush.
looking down thru the top of the throat, with the body oriented with the water hose side facing me the disc is angled downward towards me and the screw slots are facing me.so i know the shaft is installed correctly. the shaft and disc come to rest disc high in the rear angled downward toward me. at this point there are little air gaps at top and bottom and appear to be even in size.
should these gaps at the rest point be there at all or is this normal, and is this angle of the disc at rest normal.
when i started the assembly after cleaning i placed the brass disc into the bottom of the throttle body flat by itself to see if it fit and to check the tolerances around the circumference. it fit perfectly into the opening only one way and matched my marks exactly
i pushed the disc flat into the body and it stopped passage at about 1/4 inch into the throat. i installed the shaft and placed the disc into the body throat, i had to tap it lightly down with the butt end of a wooden hammer to get past this sticky point and into the slot of the shaft ok. with it loose in the shaft slot i installed the screws loose and floated the disc while moving the shaft to find the sweet spot. i then snugged the screws up. the shaft will not close any further than described above.i repeated this procedure several times with the same results.
i finally gave up and finished the assembly and this is currently how it now sits on my bench.
i hope i have written a description clear enough for others to interperit ok. i know this could become a wordy dialogue so if you want my number instead of writing send me a pm and ill get it to you asap.id sure like to move on with this task done and behind me in working order.

anybody have any advice on this? is it right as it sits or does something else needed to be done. did i miss a step?
thanks - mike

p.s. FYI on the removal of the stuck/stubborn idle screw- i could hear the dry o ring squeaking so i screwed it back down added some drops of mystery oil, turned the screw in and out a few times and it smoothed the screw right out of the hole.

[timsrv]

The butterfly plate in the throttle body is precision machined to make an air tight seal. Even the edges are machined at an angle to match the inside bore. To start with, the shaft & the butterfly plate need to be oriented the exact same way they were before you disassembled (each side facing same direction and top and bottom same as before). This is why I suggest scratching an identifying mark on the plate before disassembling (allows for easy and correct alignment while assembling). When the butterfly and shaft are oriented as before, prior to tightening the screws, you close it tightly so it fits intimately with the throttle body bore. With the throttle held tightly closed, you tighten the screws to lock in place. If the butterfly will not close tightly against the bore or if you did not seat it as described, you'll need to go back and do it again. If you made no marks on the butterfly before disassembling, you'll need to fit it each possible combination until you find the one that allows it to close all the way and make an air tight seal. Good luck. Tim

Note: Always set the butterfly to the shaft BEFORE putting the cable guide or any other parts on the shaft. Other parts (like the idle stop screw or TPS) will interfere with correctly setting the butterfly.

[robgagnon]

I would like to contribute the following solution you might need, related to this cleaning job.

I cleaned my TB and then the engine would not idle down. It turns about that the butterfly would not totally close does due to wear in the shaft bushings (or somewhere else perhaps) and it would bind a little. And I found that it would close if there were some pressure on the shaft, the pressure being placed at the tip of the shaft so as to push it back toward the TPS. So I fabricated a 1/2 wide steel bar with a large hole and a small hole about 2.75 inches long. The large hole allows it to slide over the threaded end of the shaft, and then putting the original nut back on, it sticks straight up at idle but does not touch the engine lid. The small hole has a tension spring running back to another similar bar I have sticking up from the upper rear TB bolt. So the spring is parallel to the shaft, pulling the shaft toward the TPS. There is not really all that much tension on the spring, and it does not significantly effect the effort required to increase throttle. I can feel no difference at all actually. The fix works beautifully though it is rather hack like. It cost about $2 for the springs and bar stock might be less than $10 from a hardware store.

[beoutside]

Hey Tim
I'll probably never have a use for the throttle body that came on my used motor from Japan, I'd happily send it to you for the help I have gotten from this site.
Donny
93 previa
PS
I was getting an extra 4 miles to the gallon with this motor...... 25 mpg highway avg 65 on flat ..... left the injectors in it that it came with from japan, as well as intake manifold. I believe......
PS
can you send me the link to reading engine codes on the baby
thanks probably o2 issue.

[beoutside]

found the codes from an old post thanks though
just let me know on the throttle body
donny

[timsrv]

Thanks Donny, that would be cool. I'll PM you my address. Tim

[ratatouille]

Found a website selling the TPS at 11.99 a pop. But not sure of website...I'm kinda paranoid giving out my info these days...

http://www.brohacks.com/72discount2015t9s1m6pc3254.php/beck-arnley-1580503-throttle-position-sensor-p-12508.html

[timsrv]

Yeah, I put 5 of them in my cart and went to check-out. Before entering any personal information I checked and found it was not a secure page. If they would accept PayPal I would have completed the purchase, but there's no way I'm giving out my info on an insecure web page. If anybody else wants to take a chance, get me 5. If they actually show-up I'd be happy to pay you $20 each + shipping. Tim

Oh, and the website address "brohacks" doesn't instill a lot of confidence :dizzy:

[ratatouille]

Yeah I put in a fake name to get to checkout. It ran my order and said I owed payment in iTunes gift cards. Someone might be bummed when "Mr.Frankenstien" at "12345 Sesame St." doesn't pay up...

[filterway]

Tim,

i have the throttle body in my hands and i'm watching your video how to adujst TPS. On my 1988 repair manual, the values for continuity and discontinuity are 0.0224 and 0.0335. Why are you using different gauge thickness for checking continuity (0.028)?

Also, inside the intake is full of black stuff. what do you suggest to remove it?

thanks a lot

Jerome

[timsrv]

Tim,

i have the throttle body in my hands and i'm watching your video how to adujst TPS. On my 1988 repair manual, the values for continuity and discontinuity are 0.0224 and 0.0335. Why are you using different gauge thickness for checking continuity (0.028)?

Also, inside the intake is full of black stuff. what do you suggest to remove it?

thanks a lot

Jerome

You're using the manual.............Awesome! The transition from continuity to no continuity can occur anywhere between .0224" - to .0335". If you're testing/checking and you're in that range, it's good enough. If you're going to the trouble to set it up, it's my opinion you should go for being as close as possible (I'm trying to hit that spot exactly in the middle). If you do the math, .0275" is the number exactly in the middle of .0224 - .0335. (.028" is the closest feeler gauge you're going to find..............unless you have a .70 mm feeler gauge). Tim

PS: How thick is the black stuff? Being black inside the intake is okay............assuming it's just colored black. It's not crusty or caked.......right?

[filterway]

You're using the manual.............Awesome! The transition from continuity to no continuity can occur anywhere between .0224" - to .0335". If you're testing/checking and you're in that range, it's good enough. If you're going to the trouble to set it up, it's my opinion you should go for being as close as possible (I'm trying to hit that spot exactly in the middle). If you do the math, .0275" is the number exactly in the middle of .0224 - .0335. (.028" is the closest feeler gauge you're going to find..............unless you have a .70 mm feeler gauge). Tim

PS: How thick is the black stuff? Being black inside the intake is okay............assuming it's just colored black. It's not crusty or caked.......right?

when i bought the van the manual was included!

after my post i realized that 0.028 is the middle of (0.0224+0.035)/2. I was unable to do like you in your video (reaching the point of continuity/dsicontinuity) because there was a gap to reach that point when i turn clockwise, and counterclockwise.In other word i had to turn more on clockwise then counterclockwise to reach that point (???!!) i'm not sure i'm clear it's hard to explain. But finally adjustment of TPS was perfect and the van work fine.:thmbup:

The old TPS was broken in is shaft.

for the black stuff, it's not caked but some place was thicker thans just a film of black dirt. what it means if it's crusty or caked?

Jerome

[timsrv]

for the black stuff, it's not caked but some place was thicker thans just a film of black dirt. what it means if it's crusty or caked?

Jerome

Typically you won't see crusty/caked in the throttle body area of our vans. Crusty/caked typically occurs where the PCV line enters the manifold (which is close to the valve cover on the van manifold). Over time, especially on worn engines with "blow by", they will build a black crusty cake of residue in this area. Eventually this can clog the PCV passage and there's a small potential for it to break-off and get into a cylinder. If you have good vacuum at your PCV port, then I wouldn't worry about it. Tim

[wavegobbler]

I am having a mixed experience attempting the Throttle Body cleaning. My main issue is a lack of ability to follow directions. When I disassembled the throttle body, I did not scratch the original orientation of the disk. It did not seem like a big issue, the 'engine side' had the most crud build up and I could still see its traces after the solvent dip. Given that I had some confidence in which side was which, It only seems to 'seat' in one orientation. But just to check, I tried the other side, and it also seemed to work in one orientation. The catch, is that neither orientation passes the 'light test'. Its tight but not air tight. If I did not have timrv's great write up, I would assume the disc was symmetrical, one side is the exact opposite of the other side and the bore is completely symmetrical. The disk would have two possible orientations. But, it's more likely I'm doing it wrong.

So, sorry to ask a question already answered in the thread, but, does the disk always pass the light test perfectly? I've spun it around and around without getting a perfect seal.

I'm attaching a photo of the disk, I have the throttle very slightly open, you can just see one of the ports, in the bore, starting to show. Maybe my orientation in completely off. Does that look right?

2309

The next failure to interpret directions well, involved the rubber cover for the idle adjust screw. I looked at the two ground 'flats' that timrv put on the metal stud and thought they were there so he could get a wrench on it, not so he could just pop the rubber past the tight spots. I yanked out the stud and its not very pretty after my abuse. I had to replace it with a plastic male/female part that I pulled out of a random part drawer at the local hardware store. I will see if it can handle the heat.

Don't yank out the stud holding the rubber cover.

2308
Another issue involved a rattle sound coming from the new TPS. I had to take it apart and put a rubber corner piece in its correct location.
Timrv's video on how to set the TPS is pure gold.
Any comments on peoples experiences getting the disk to seat airtight would be much appreciated.

[timsrv]

After installing and lubing the shaft seals, the very next step is installing the shaft, disc, and seating to the correct orientation (before any other assembling). Once you put the cable guide on the throttle shaft the "throttle stop screw" will interfere and prevent complete closing of the disc. Don't mess with the throttle stop screw as it's set at the factory and should never need to be adjusted.

Take the cable guides and springs back off and do the disc alignment over again. If you've already installed the TPS, I'd advise taking that back off just so you can have full control over throttle shaft while setting/adjusting. Tim

BTW, you could be right about the disc being symmetrical (at least when flipped 180 deg). Whatever way works I guess is good enough. There's always springs and things you could add later if the throttle doesn't want to close all the way :dizzy: . I can be a bit anal I guess. I'm set in my ways and tend to be so unyielding that others will sometimes ridicule me for it. It's my personal choice to try & put things back exactly as before as to reduce my chance of potential problems. Tim

[wavegobbler]

Thank you Tim for replying to my question.
One positive is that my throttle does close all the way. In the photo I was holding it open, trying to establish a reference point. Its hard to describe how the disk is set in the body, so I just opened it a hair, and you can just see a port exposed. I'm hoping thats normal.

The disk sits tight in the body in two orientations. With out the back light, it looks tight. But if you hold it up to a light, you can see light around the edges. When you hold up the assembled body to the light, is there NO light filtering through on the edges? I could not get it that tight.

I flipped it a bunch and never got a completely 'dark' fit (NO light at edge). I was fitting it before any of the other assembly, with the two screws loose. Do you think it might still work?

Thanks,
(another)Tim

[wavegobbler]

Once again, I score low marks in reading comprehension.

I just re-read Tim's response to my original question. I think that my disk is set tight in the body. Once its assembled, the 'Throttle Stop Screw' is holding it slightly open. I was confused because I thought it was tight but after assembly, its barely gapped.

Thank you again Tim for your answer. The Throttle Stop Screw was not on my radar even though its right there. I think my Throttle body is ready for service, I hope thats not just wishful thinking.

Tim

[timsrv]

Awesome! Let us know how it works out. (the original)Tim :rol:

[AD2101]

Tim! Anyone!! Van down!!!

I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this one. Some hoses were thrashed getting the throttle body out of the van, which I expected since nearly all the hoses were 27+ years old. What I did not expect was this when I finally got my throttle body taken apart.

2474

As you can see, half of one of my inlets (I don't know the proper term, :?:) has corroded/rusted off. Is this salvageable? If not, can these be replaced or is my throttle body basically shot? The usable remainder of the stub is long enough to get a hose and a hose clamp onto so I'm hopeful that it is, but not sure. This repair has gone about as badly as it could have gone so far, I also wasn't able to remove the butterfly screws and they are completely stripped. I ground them down flush beforehand and tried to follow your advice but the metal was just too soft. Anyone have any luck drilling these out and then backing them out with an easy out? Anyone have any advice at all? HELP!

EDIT: After wrenching on this some more the butterfly screws are out, so I'm just back to the original question about the busted inlet in the photo.

[timsrv]

Perhaps a machinist could drill those out and press in new nipples??? I don't know. When I see them like that I start looking for another throttle body. Tim

[ratatouille]

I'm dusting things off and finding time to start working on my van again. Top of my list is this TPS work. I am wondering though as I look closer, my throttle body may either have been replaced or this work has been done before..I think. When I had hoses off peeking in the best I could, things don't look dirty at all really. Is it possible to replace TPS with out removing throttle body?

[timsrv]

Anything is possible, but that lower screw on the TPS is a bugger. I probably would have tried this by now, but every time I've needed to address a TPS, the throttle body looked all crusty, so I just pull the whole assembly and do together. If you just want to check the TPS without removing, I give instructions for that in THIS POST (http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/showthread.php?57-Engine-Service-Connector-not-working-can-t-set-proper-ignition-timing&p=395#post395). Tim

[ratatouille]

Thanks Tim. Not sure which is best thread to continue my questions on. This or the thread you mentioned. Went to test the TPS as you outlined in that thread and I'm not getting any tones from multimeter when hooked up to the paper clips. Double checked I've got it hooked in correct E1 and IDL pins. Throttle stop and adjuster screw are touching. No tone with or without feeler gauges. What to do next ? My first thought is TPS is no bueno. But with no-tone could this mean I've got issues with a connection somewhere else? TPS connection looks properly seated.

[ratatouille]

Gave it a good try but couldn't figure out out how to get a good grip on the bottom screw. Tired of the bloody knuckles went ahead and removed the throttle body to remove TPS. Skipping the chem bath because thing really do look pretty dang clean. Even still have what looks like fresh paint marker where the factory marked thing ups. OG TPS removed and opening it up I can see why I was not getting any tone. Plastic not rotating gall the way to force the contacts together... New TPS coming from Amazon tomorrow.

I noticed when I removed throttle body I've got some build up right on the inside of the intake. I'd like to scrape the crustiness out but wondering why I've got it there? Reason for concern?

2739
sorry for the blurry picture...looks like gunk is surrounding a hole there?


Thanks a lot.

[gushaman]

I thinkni look at this thread more than any other! Im trying to figure how difficult it would be to replace the two coolant pipe nipples on the throttle body. My girlfriends van is getting a new tps, and the pipe nipples are corroded. They may work ok and seal to the rubber hose with a good napa clamp, or i may put a layer or two of some good tape. I cleaned them with flapper wheel, but the ridges are worn, and the wall thickness is decreased.

I thought i remembered a thread on pipe nipple replacement but couldnt find it.

[timsrv]

I scrapped one due to rusty nipples that looked like Swiss cheese. I considered replacing, but looked as though the only way would be to drill out. So if you go to all that trouble, where do you get new nipples? I figured it wasn't worth the effort and just pulled another one off one of my parts vans. Every so often these also come up on eBay for a reasonable price. Good luck. Tim

PS: Sorry ratatouille for not answering your post. I'm just now seeing it. I run my own business and I'm always swamped that time of year. I hope you got it all figured out. Tim

[gushaman]

Fingers crossed, then. Thanks tim!

[ratatouille]

... Sorry ratatouille for not answering your post. I'm just now seeing it. I run my own business and I'm always swamped that time of year. I hope you got it all figured out. Tim

No worries Tim. I'm in the same boat as a small business owner. So swamped... Unfortunately I've had issues since replacing TPS and cleaning throttle body, I don't think related, but haven't had time to research and work on them quite yet. Soon I hope!

[AR74]

Can someone tell me what the Throttle Stop Screw setting is from the factory ? Mine abviously has been tampered with and I need to set it back to factory setting so I can adjust my idle correctly.

[timsrv]

Read post #9 in this thread.

[AnotherUser]

I always take the dash pots and save them.


I have lost the plastic cover to the dash pot, is there a place to order a new one? What would be the side effects of missing the round plastic cover?

[spacecruisers]

awesome write up! i may inspect my throttle body etc as I imagine it could use this cleaning. have you ever seen one of these (the "intake snake") (http://www.run-rite.com/pro/products/fuel-system/intake-snake-tool.html)? is it worth $50? seems like if it worked it would save a lot of time and effort.

[timsrv]

have you ever seen one of these (the "intake snake") (http://www.run-rite.com/pro/products/fuel-system/intake-snake-tool.html)? is it worth $50? seems like if it worked it would save a lot of time and effort.

They should have a link to an instructional video. Maybe I don't have much of an imagination, but I fail to see how that could aid in cleaning the throttle body. Tim

[Surf5557]

Upon disassembling the entire intake side of my engine to essentially just clean 30 years of gunk and fix a minor water leak on the bypass pipe No.2, I'm having issues with my throttle position sensor and my distributor advancing mechanism.

Issue 1) When fully throttled my engine cuts out, and when I back off power returns and I take off. The cut out only occurs at the end of the throttle's.

Issue2) The Idle was factory spec upon the beginning of my project, but now after reassembly I find the idle low upon warming up and high after warm up. I did not mess with my distributor but I did change the cap and rotor. To correct the high idle I turned in the screw on the throttle body that controls the idle, but I feel like the timing may still be advancing when it shouldn't.

[JPERL]

Maybe a vacuum hose is cracked or loose since the 1984 Ignition timing advance is not electronic and maybe the advance diaphragm could be damaged or faulty. I do not believe that the throttle position sensor has much or any influence on the timing advance since if memory serves the ECU does not monitor any sensory input from the ignition.

The second generation Vans 86-89 diagnostics is more robust and does incorporate into the ECU, ESA which is electronic Spark Advance which monitors sensory input from the throttle position sensor, igniter,coolant 02 etc.

If I remember the 84 Van has something like 6 DTC codes while the 89 Van has like 14 or 15.

I would say replace your TPS first to resolve the hesitation or cut that you experience on full throttle if you cannot determine how old the current TPS is.

When you took apart the intake it is more likely you may have disturbed a wire in the connector or wiring harness to the TPS as the insulation on the wires cracks very easily especially in the environment these engines are in plus being 33 years old. Also in this vicinity is the auxiliary air valve for cold starts. if the connector or wiring is damaged , you will get inconsistent idle because the auxiliary valve even though is designed for giving you fast idle at cold starts it is working all of the time to adjust idle. If you are getting high idle when the engine is warm the bimetal switch in the valve will stay at whatever position it was in when the connector plug or wire broke or the connector was loose. My guess is that your auxiliary valve is intermittently making a connection producing inconsistent idle. I had this experience on my 1985 Van which took along time to track down as the check engine light never came on. I don't think I ever saw a check engine light in my 85 with the exception of a bad 02 sensor but that was it

[Deemoney]

You're using the manual.............Awesome! The transition from continuity to no continuity can occur anywhere between .0224" - to .0335". If you're testing/checking and you're in that range, it's good enough. If you're going to the trouble to set it up, it's my opinion you should go for being as close as possible (I'm trying to hit that spot exactly in the middle). If you do the math, .0275" is the number exactly in the middle of .0224 - .0335. (.028" is the closest feeler gauge you're going to find..............unless you have a .70 mm feeler gauge). Tim

PS: How thick is the black stuff? Being black inside the intake is okay............assuming it's just colored black. It's not crusty or caked.......right?



Hey Tim,

Don't know if you're aware already but Warner Music Group/Youtube have blocked your video regarding this topic... I'm hoping to adjust my TPS and would love to access that video, anywhere else we can find it? or anywhere I can find a written step by step adjustment instruction? Thanks in advance.

[AD2101]

Really? Because there was Pat Benatar randomly playing on the radio in the background??? That's the only thing it could be. I've been against the music industry since Napster but that's real petty even by their standards, hopefully this can be cleared up easily enough, if not then someone is going to have to either remake the video or scrub the audio from the original and overdub it.

[Deemoney]

I have my TB dismounted and ready to make adjustments to TPS. If I figure out how to properly set it I will record the process and play 'Strauss' 'Also Sprach Zarathustra' royalty free version in the background to ensure no interruptions.:violn:

[timsrv]

Wow, you're right, that's petty. They wiped out all my chihuahua puppy videos too because of the same thing (30 year old music quietly playing in the background). On one 3 minute vid there was "Gray's Anatomy" TV show playing in the background (couldn't even see the tv screen in the video) and they took it down for copyright violations as well. You'd think I did something really bad (like say something positive about Trump)........jeeze.

I'll eventually redo that, but it will have to wait until I do that job again. Not sure when that will be. Video isn't really necessary though. The manual lays it out and with the written instructions here it should be a cake walk. Tim

[Deemoney]

Wow, you're right, that's petty. They wiped out all my chihuahua puppy videos too because of the same thing (30 year old music quietly playing in the background). On one 3 minute vid there was "Gray's Anatomy" TV show playing in the background (couldn't even see the tv screen in the video) and they took it down for copyright violations as well. You'd think I did something really bad (like say something positive about Trump)........jeeze.

I'll eventually redo that, but it will have to wait until I do that job again. Not sure when that will be. Video isn't really necessary though. The manual lays it out and with the written instructions here it should be a cake walk. Tim


The Manual says if you can't find continuity in the specified range replace the TPS and the throttle body as a set... say what??? Mine I rotated for the magic continuity spot at .57mm and was not continuous at .80mm (manuel specs .85mm). Going to install tomorrow and clear codes... Hope it goes well...

[timsrv]

The only thing I might add is to ignore the stuff in the manual about continuity at different angles of throttle rotation. Even if you had a good way to check that, there's nothing you could do about it if it were off anyway. If the TPS has more than 100k miles on it don't even mess around trying to make it work. Just get a new one and set it with the feeler gauge in the throttle stop. You're done.

As I've said before, these TPS's are a common failed part and they seldom last over 150k miles. I would almost consider their replacement as routine maintenance. On the other hand, about the only thing that justifies throttle body replacement is a coolant leak from it's nipples (corrosion) and/or maybe wear on the throttle shaft bore. Personally I've only had to change them due to corroded coolant nipples. Tim

[Deemoney]

The only thing I might add is to ignore the stuff in the manual about continuity at different angles of throttle rotation. Even if you had a good way to check that, there's nothing you could do about it if it were off anyway. If the TPS has more than 100k miles on it don't even mess around trying to make it work. Just get a new one and set it with the feeler gauge in the throttle stop. You're done.

As I've said before, these TPS's are a common failed part and they seldom last over 150k miles. I would almost consider their replacement as routine maintenance. On the other hand, about the only thing that justifies throttle body replacement is a coolant leak from it's nipples (corrosion) and/or maybe wear on the throttle shaft bore. Personally I've only had to change them due to corroded coolant nipples. Tim

Yeah, I bought an AC Delco of Rock Auto... Here is a picture of the inside of my original TPS

[Deemoney]

Update: I reinstalled Throttle body and hooked everything up. Still getting code 2 and 11... Van hesitating perfusely. Not drivable. Could the MAF be shot?

[MyToy]

Hey Tim:

I am ready to replace my TPS and found your video instruction not on you tube any more.Where can I get that, it was really good. I knew I would use it when I was ready and now I am ready and NO VIDEO.

MT

[timsrv]

They took it down due to the music in the background. Some stupid copyright BS (like some 80's artist will starve to death now because of me). The video is pointless without sound, so I need to do it again with no background music. I plan on doing so next time I do this job, but don't have any immediate plans to do so. Sorry. Tim

[MyToy]

What? OMG, what a joke. I am sorry to have bothered you on this. I know what it takes to do this and the very reason why I was so grateful knowing that it was there for reference.
I could not find any other detailed instruction onTVT. If you know of any let me know Other wise I will go back to the Service Manual.

[Tan Van]

Hmmm... maybe for something like this we could send you a blank zip-drive and a self-addressed stamped envelope and you could send the original video (with music) to the party in desperate need ?

Probably wouldn't come up often, right ??

[timsrv]

Okay, I had recorded two of these (same day back in 2011). I just uploaded the other one and updated the tag (bottom of post #1 of this thread). There's still music in it so it will probably be removed, but it's working now. Download it and save it quick before the music police find out :doh:. Tim

[MyToy]

Thanks Tim!!!

Got it recorded. Anyone need it give a scream. Hmmm now I hate the song.

MT

[AD2101]

I ripped it as well. Hell, I even splurged and downloaded the "high quality" version of it, which clocked in just under 16MB, so I think it's small enough to send as an email attachment for any members here who will need it after youtube inevitably pulls it again. Otherwise, I can throw it in a .zip file and put it on a file sharing site if the demand is there.

Also, a previous post I made in this thread mistakenly cited Pat Benatar as the artist whose music messed this all up in the first place (I swear one of her songs is playing in another of Tim's videos). AD2101 regrets the error. :rol:

[timsrv]

Also, a previous post I made in this thread mistakenly cited Pat Benatar as the artist whose music messed this all up in the first place (I swear one of her songs is playing in another of Tim's videos). AD2101 regrets the error. :rol:

No, you were right......it was Pat Benatar. I had recorded two of those but originally uploaded the other one because it was better (not so jerky). Since they pulled that one I just replaced it with the other (both were recorded in May of 2011). Took a while to find as I had to scan through a bunch of SD cards from 3 different cameras. Tim

[boogieman]

i could have sworn it was steve miller..

[PNW vanwagon]

thanks again to tim who took the time / effort to dig out and re-post his excellent instructional video!

[armorrell]

Here's whats listed for TPS units on Rock Auto. Anyone have any preferences??
8110

[SoORYotas]

The Beck-Arnley and then follow the instructions from Tim about how to use the volt meter on the resistance setting to fine tune.

[syn]

Is there a way to replace the tps without taking the throttle body out?

[Flecker]

Anything is possible, but in this case it's far easier to remove it.

Theres a couple of short phillips screws holding the tps on the throttle body, and are a REAL pain to get to without removal. And the adjustment is far easier with it off.

I suppose it can be done though, try not to drop the screws. :wave1:

[AD2101]

Is there a way to replace the tps without taking the throttle body out?


I was able to do this job with the throttle body still "semi-attached" to the van (i.e. still connected to the hoses but removed from the intake manifold). You're only able to get this done if you completely remove the "hood" as it'll give you the access necessary to get the job done. I was able to get the new TPS on, mostly adust it with the standard test leads on my multimeter, and get it all back together. Adjusting it with the standard test leads was the sketchiest part, and I think that's why I'm still getting a code 11 on my '86.


Since I did all that and I'm still getting a TPS-related engine code, maybe you're better off removing the throttle body completely and doing this job by the book. However, I'm stubborn and bought a pair of alligator leads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8VG8UA/) instead and I'm going to remove the hood again and redo this job sometime this winter. This time I'm confident I can adjust the TPS without removing the throttle body from the van in any way.

TL;DR

Yes, but only if you're willing to completely remove the hood, and possibly still have to semi-remove the throttle body in order to get the old TPS off.

[syn]

Now I gotta figure out how to take the "hood" off

[llamavan]

THIS LIBRARY ARTICLE (https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/content.php?239-Engine-hood-swap-%97-transplanting-a-1st-gen-engine-cover-into-a-2nd-gen-Van) contains that information! :)

Gwen

[syn]

Welp even with the hood off this is impossible...I guess I should just order a gasket and then take the throttle body off. Also is there a tutorial on getting rid of all the unnecessary vacuum lines and canisters? I don't need to pass emmissons for this van where I live.


8137

[MyToy]

OH crap, I thought you may have found a short cut for me. Looks mine will have to come off if adjustment is necessary.

Nice try SNY

MT

[syn]

Also I missed the "semi-attached" part of the post before :/

[Flecker]

You are gonna just have to take it off I think... really not a biggy. AND, you can hose the thing down with some intake cleaner, clean all those vac line pesky passages that may be gummed up.

Also it's ten times easier to adjust the tps with it out of the engine compartment.

[MyToy]

Doing my throttle body and the seals for the butterfly shaft look real bad, one cracked.
Anyone know their part number or anywhere to get them?

MT

[timsrv]

Doing my throttle body and the seals for the butterfly shaft look real bad, one cracked.
Anyone know their part number or anywhere to get them?

MT

We touched on that subject posts #6 & 7 this thread. You can find high pressure seals (https://www.maperformance.com/products/stm-high-pressure-throttle-body-shaft-seals-2003-2006-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-viii-ix?variant=19933644739&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjpjkBRDRARIsAKv-0O3TxPPo8r0H0lOVt0TVt5hNFS1y68-gxyj8Wh7CEdw_-PUnjHZxSNQaArmFEALw_wcB) for Mitsubishi and other unlisted "multiple fitments" on the web. It's possible those may fit???

I think you might have a better chance with taking the seals from THIS KIT (https://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-Throttle-Body-Rebuild-Kit-p/1061048.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjpjkBRDRARIsAKv-0O2cEyYXXdL_669CvmhYaFOrXBe8Uzm293xrvjfOeEAzedtXJI _a0wYaArLdEALw_wcB). It's for a 22RE, but at least it's for Toyota. It's also regular seals (not high pressure).

Regarding the type seals you choose, even if the high pressure seals fit, the std ones would be preferred unless you're running forced induction. High pressure seals would likely put more pressure on the shaft causing it and the seals to wear faster.

If you try either of these, please let us know if they fit. Tim

[MyToy]

OK, let's give this a go. I ordered it. Will let everyone know what happens.

[MyToy]

Heads up Tim:

The Seal kit came in and it was not really for our throttle body. The gasket and the idle screw were wrong but the seals were OK.
So not a total loss.

Another issue with fuel damper but will hit that in the other thread.

MT

[timsrv]

Heads up Tim:

The Seal kit came in and it was not really for our throttle body. The gasket and the idle screw were wrong but the seals were OK.
So not a total loss.

Another issue with fuel damper but will hit that in the other thread.

MT

I never expected the other parts to fit, but I thought there was a chance the seals would work. The seals are the only thing you needed.........right?

[MyToy]

Correct-O

All is good.

[beetleswamp]

Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?

9181

[timsrv]

We touched on that in posts 49 & 50. If you figure something out please share with the rest of us. Tim

[MyToy]

Hey Tim could he not just bypass this if he is not in super cold climate?

Just a thought.

MT

[timsrv]

Oh yeah, good point.....(I see he's in Hawaii). The coolant flowing through the throttle body is just to prevent freeze-ups in cold climates. If it never freezes where you are you could simply bypass the throttle body (bypass the bypass :LOL2:) and not worry about it. Tim

Edit: Read further before attempting this (no longer recommended), user "MyToy" tried it and had freeze-up issues @ 94° F!

[beetleswamp]

What has two thumbs and loves you guys for being so awesome?

This dude. This dude right here.:thmbup::thmbup:

[beetleswamp]

Ok about ready to put this sucker back in but realized that the gasket 22271-73011 is discontinued and not in stock anywhere that I can find. Any recommendations?

[MyToy]

Is that the one between the throttle body and the manifold?

mt

[timsrv]

https://www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Injector-Rebuild-Kit-Walker-Products-18093-fits-84-89-Toyota-Van-2-2L-L4/220081249?iid=303150521469&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303150521469&targetid=595069534683&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033612&poi=&campaignid=1689799120&mkgroupid=66574332155&rlsatarget=pla-595069534683&abcId=1140466&merchantid=108020575&gclid=CjwKCAjw7uPqBRBlEiwAYDsr1zkaX6hCP9xdLQ2AySwF aTMgmWl8LwpDW-rNxeIYMROq5GRRj5-EjBoC0vgQAvD_BwE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-86-89-Toyota-Van-2-2L-OHV-Head-Gasket-Kit-4YEC/370753951865?fits=Year%3A1987%7CModel%3AVan%7CMake %3AToyota&hash=item5652a85879:g:c9oAAOSwFeNcrRWq:sc:FedExHom eDelivery!98674!US!-1

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5572287&cc=1279784&jsn=1690&jsn=1690

https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Temperature-Gasket-Material-Automotive-Replacement-Parts-Truck-Gaskets-Car/123805379818?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1cd3602cea:g:MmsAAOSw2IVdB5iv&enc=AQAEAAAB4BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUWaLmTe79a6r%2 BxDXEARP7tL03tzKiGpChuspKvSazsPqdBgQvlQc%2FgbJNDwO 6X0rLr12BapfBxvb%2BqbTISDzlGQBaakwqNneuVYoQ9htX%2F zaWkzz2tKTRISdEfndi4OGBX%2B766709tywDGFH%2FjLxSme% 2Bm%2BXfExHFgJX60nzzE11Nqvccnh6i3Y%2FdbmXjYfTfmkjL fdS7Stj1js3XcOvcgiO%2Bz%2BgbihjLMfj%2BTm2R351vqhcK NiNgvhbH47JBU4cUxOAEZ1jiN%2FtzyavHdrKEVJyX2KEcz2bO MqbOAw10YgtmVpR9YIkqgo3gpxtqs9H83d65NXPSxH7rBwNFGx XN%2FzuKvngT2MeFSSLrv8Rd0YuGlUH7CZP65DI4NPRBLwr9Tl U%2FiO2av%2FEyyBxsFlzrXjGj5AlltuMJSf0F8gKLZziyStyI A%2Ff%2FCLRXz6OPFZEWu8NLinBhKOi4jafMLAm8shxTMUK13h GvbQUY69AhSfFt2dSgF4bSiXMGeFvEmxiGpY3SK7Yepl8uIAfw 9ZebP1Ypyc3gNVOfMIFO5Wl2ufhV7rCqkmayEQOi2nioqSWOvd e9F%2B6w%2FoiEl7CL9jKpMY%2FLzrKN53313P4jiY%2BxBdcQ %3D%3D&checksum=123805379818ceadfbe55eef432aa017f25a52588 3a4

[beetleswamp]

Thanks. I guess I am feeling a little bit special this week. Hopefully my lost searching skills will turn up shortly.

[MyToy]

As for bypassing the water inlet probably was not a good idea. I bypassed them on mine just so see if they would effect my crazy idle issue going up by 300 rpm after the engine is on for more that 15 min. If you adjust idle down to 700 at that time she has a hard time to keep running within those first 10 to 15 minutes. You have to majorly feather the gas pedal.

So I said, what the heck, let me try this. No issue until I got on the highway for a while doing 85 at 32000 RPM. The van came to a stop as if I ran out of gas. I opened the lid and could not find anything wrong. 5 minutes later she started back up. Ran it again and again she dies.
When I got her home I immediately pulled of the air intake to look into the mix control. There it was ICE!!! The water bypass is to protect the mixture control from freezing in high humidity climates. I should have know, they do this all the time on non fuel injected airplanes. As the air gets sucked in to the assembly it drops in temperature and when mixed with the humidity it freezes.

So if you do bypass it and she dies you know why. Hawaii may be different. But here in Florida, it is needed.

MT

[timsrv]

Good to know. It freezes here so I've never tried it. What was the ambient temp when yours froze?

[MyToy]

Outside temp was 94 Deg with 99% humidity

[timsrv]

Outside temp was 94 Deg with 99% humidity

Wow! so I think I'll edit my previous post where I said it's okay to do that in warm climates :dizzy: :doh:.

[Flecker]

Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?

9181

Cut them off, drill and tap for something like these is what I have done on the 22re's throttle body...

https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Fitting-Straight-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07CWS7YHC/ref=asc_df_B07CWS7YHC

[Flecker]

Wow! so I think I'll edit my previous post where I said it's okay to do that in warm climates :dizzy: :doh:.


Must be the humidity or something... I wouldn't ever think with the air flow these litle 4y's get that it would freeze in 90+ degrees...

[MyToy]

Very common in aviation. As I mentioned, every aircraft that is not fuel injected (no carburetor or mixture control at all) has carburetor heat. This is part of the instrument panel where in most cases, like Cesena 172's, has a pull level like a choke. When descending you add carburetor heat, pull the dumb lever, before you freeze it. Otherwise it is a bad day:no:

[originalkwyjibo]

Part of the issue is the somewhat remote mounting of the throttle body. Despite the engine compartment heat it is mounted up and away from direct heat. This also why air cooled VWs had heat riser tubes on the intake. The air velocity past the throttle plate creates a considerable temperature drop. Mount the throttle plate away from a direct heat source and you will get icing. The colder the air is to begin with(such as at altitude as Mytoy noted)or the higer the humidity the worse it is. I have a '62 Bug with aftermarket single carb and intake without heat riser tubes and had this happen frequently. Especially if I didn't let it warm up.

[phychotron]

What about a spray cleaner that doesn't require disassembly?

9547

Would this be worth my time if I can't take the time/risk to do this rebuild just yet?

[Flecker]

What about a spray cleaner that doesn't require disassembly?

9547

Would this be worth my time if I can't take the time/risk to do this rebuild just yet?

Does it come with a sticker? Everybody knows thats where the real horsepower comes from... :yes:

I use the cleaner when needed... it's better to take the throttle body out and just clean it though.

[phychotron]

If it was a one day repair that didn't require grinding and potentially fixing it I'd be more inclined to do it. Right now its getting colder and rainier every day. I was going to give my van a tune up but might skip it because its too cold/humid to resin/fiberglass the center console. Spring/summer repairs.

[Zman]

I'm a hand at 1st gen toy4x4 trucks having restoed 7 but total newby to the space van. Got a 4x4 5 manual and have a high idle problem. Could this be a bad dash pot and how can I either find one to buy or test the one I've got? Also, you mention just getting rid of it. What's the down side on that?

I love this forum. It's brought me face to face with feedback circuits and cpu unlike any of my 1st gen truck projects. Thanks for your enthusiastic contributions. I definitely am stoked for the help. Zman Kona PS Merry Christmas!

[timsrv]

Hi Zman and welcome to TVT! I talked about this a little on post #3 of this thread. IMO there's very little downside (if any) to removing the dash pot. I never really understood why it was necessary in the 1st place, but was told it was to somehow reduce emissions. I can't imagine it making a big difference, but who knows. If yours is good, then leave it, but if it's sticking and causing the idle to be erratic, then that's a drive-ability issue. To me, a drive-ability issue trumps an emission issues (at least one this minuscule). If you're not sure if it's bad, then remove it and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't then put it back on. Tim

[originalkwyjibo]

The purpose of the dashpot is to keep the throttle from snapping shut when you shove in the clutch and suddenly back off the throttle. When the throttle is suddenly released and the engine de-cels rapidly, unburned fuel is dumped out the exhaust. By slowing the speed at which the throttle closes it mixes more air with the fuel and gives it a chance to burn more completely. It's not necessary on an automatic because the torque converter has the same effect. But ya, if it ain't working right, ditch it.

[whatvan]

Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.

[JPERL]

Are coolant hoses 16267-73010 and 16264-73021 still available? I’m striking out with those.


no longer available I just confirmed

[whatvan]

link to McMaster-Carr M3.5 X 0.6 screws. Sold in qty of 100.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~inch/thread-size~m3-5/length~16millimeters/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~inch/thread-size~m3-5/length~16millimeters/)

[whatvan]

1023410235

i have a spare throttle body i was cleaning up as practice for cleaning the TB currently attached to my van.

While disassembling this TB, the plastic spacer for the springs (Circled in red) disintegrated.

when i get to the point in picture 2, will all that come off as one, or will the springs need to be unattached first? I attempted to disengage the springs from the piece that hits the throttle stop screw and thats when things fell apart.

is this piece replaceable (part number?)? Or, if this happens round 2 am i screwed? Anybody with a TB thats NFG got a spacer to donate/sell?

other than that, everything went swimmingly and metal parts are currently soaking in chem dip.

[iq_artwork]

Hello everyone and Happy 4th!!

I got this TB from an automatic '86 van. I cleaned it and built a gasket. For the gasket is this what I need or do I need to make the other caps i have marked with red here?
My van is '84 manual, is it the same TB for auto and manual vans?

Thank you!

10365
10366
10367

[JDM VANMAN]

Take a look at the 1st and 3rd posting on page 1 of this thread-

1st posting- auto TB
3rd posting - manual TB with Dashpot

If I’m understating correctly the 5 speed vans have a dashpot on the TB, I’m not sure if that means they are not interchangeable.

Whats the part number on your TB?

JDM

[Diy2k]

Guess who has high P/N idle after rebuild!

*me*

[iq_artwork]

JDM thank you very much for your quick reply.
I think I'm not going to risk it, I will stay with my TB I have in my van now. I just have to take it and clean it. I though it will be faster for me to have an extra TB and work on it while I can drive the van too.

The number of the TB I took from the junk yard is 730 32.

Do you think the gasket is right?

[JDM VANMAN]

I know the gasket is impossible to find (NLA) and some members have either made a gasket or used a gasket maker, sorry I don’t remember what it’s called. There’s a couple of different TB part numbers imprinted on various years TB’s, looks like the one Tim is rebuilding looks like 730-39. I’ve sold a couple of them but can find the posts, I think they were cleaned up during forum house keeping as old closed posts.

JDM

[timsrv]

Although the TB gasket (Toyota part #22271-73011) is NLA through Toyota, these will occasionally come up on eBay and other sites as NOS "New Old Stock" (I just checked eBay but nothing is currently available). Compete Aftermarket gasket sets are still available and some will include this gasket: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=GK227+Gasket&_sacat=0 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=AFS8016&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15. If you need to make one, Here's a picture of what it should look like and how the holes line up:

[Diy2k]

Can’t see the image

[iq_artwork]

Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?

I have seen youtube tutorial using this material:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-77-Performance-Material/dp/B000BWCEYM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Mr.+Gasket&qid=1593994873&sr=8-3

and some auto shops selling these ones: (Tank fiber material)
10380

[timsrv]

Can’t see the image

I posted 2 images........anybody else having trouble viewing?


Tim thank you very much!! What's the best material for that?

I'd probably avoid using cork here. Either one of the other 2 shown in your pics should work fine. I can't read the tan stuff, but can see the gray calls out gasoline, so unless the tan stuff says that too, I'd go with the gray. Tim

[iq_artwork]

Tim thanks again!!

[iq_artwork]

Hello everyone,
Today I tried to adjust my sensor on my TB. I bought a new Beck/Arbley #8945214020 from RockAuto.

Here's a video of my process, is this right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJLJ5EfYvAQ

[Jdelgado]

Video is private, Can you change to public view?

[timsrv]

Video is private, Can you change to public view?

X2:doh:

[iq_artwork]

Ops I'm sorry about that :).. I published it now.

My other question is,
I removed the feeler gauge and open and close the TB, do I need to have continuity all the time?

[timsrv]

With the throttle against the stop you should have continuity through terminals IDL and E1. As you open the throttle you should lose continuity around .028 of travel. I watched your video and you did it right. Good job! Tim

[iq_artwork]

Nice, Thank you very much Tim!!

[Toyota2RZ-E]

Hi. All.
I have a 1998 commuter van with a 2.4L 2RZ-E motor.
The throttle body has Toyota 75 161 8J23 stamped on it .
It appears that it has a cold start system that must use water temperature to allow a lean mixture to idle up when cold.
Other throttle bodies I have seen use an electrical device to idle up when cold?
I am having trouble with getting stable idle.
I am wondering if there is some sort of thermostat in the throttle body that may stick occasionally?
I have checked the TPS and MAP sensor (testok) removed and cleaned throttle body but did not disassemble the device where the two water pipes attach (water flowed thru these pipes unrestricted when tested). Mike

[JesseyWray]

Hi all,
New to the forum, new to Toyota vans.
Recently bought a 1989 2wd A/T van to fix up into a camping/road trip vehicle. Had no issues driving it home after buying.
So, drove about 2 hrs somewhere, no issues. Driving home I stopped for gas, filled er up and just cranking and cranking...no start. Luckily I had a hammer on me and gave the starter a whack and started right up. So I assumed it was the starter, right? Bought and installed a new starter, same issue. So I went down the rabbit hole of replacing parts. Not much new on the van when I bought it, so it was probably time for most of the parts to be replaced anyway.

Coil, cap, rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter. Didn't fix the issue. So I decided to check for codes. Threw a 5-1. So I now assume it's the TPS. Got a new one and ready to install but after lurking through the forums here I realize it needs to be calibrated. Noticed a member posted a video on just that procedure but it looks as though the link is broken. So...

Can anyone help me with the procedure for calibrating the TPS?

Also, open to suggestions as to what the issue maybe. Searching the forums and finding a few people with similar issues...crank but no start. It was really hot that day...heard about the hot soak issues. It's weird to me that knocking the starter worked that first time. I did push it away from the pump, so maybe that did something?

Thanks for any and all help! :thmbup:

[Burntboot]

What your looking for is located in "articles"

Cleaning the Throttle Body

[JesseyWray]

Yes, I read that article and cleaned the throttle body. Unfortunately the link to the video says it's not available in my country (U.S.) due to copyright laws and there's no explanation on resetting TPS in article.

[timsrv]

Hi Jessey, :wave2: I merged your new thread with an existing one of same subject matter. Please go to post #1 and watch the video at the end of it. When I updated this thread with a different video I had neglected to update the one in the article section. I'll go change that now. FYI, when making posts, please search and find a thread of similar subject matter and post in that. It helps keep the forum clean and helps the search feature to work better. Thank you and welcome to TVT :wave1:! Tim

[JesseyWray]

Thanks! Ended up finding video on YouTube from post #138. I'll give it a shot.

[snakeqq]

Hello, my name is Isaac, I am from Mexico, I have an automatic toyota van 89 2wd, I had not encouraged myself to ask for help since I tried to solve it with what I found in the forum, my van has the problem of loss of power , unstable idle in drive and reverse, speeds do not enter on time, when I jump the check engine connector, it flashes repeatedly and if I activate the accelerator it gives me code 51, I already checked the tps sensor and if it was out of calibration since it stopped check continuity up to 0.038 and calibrate it to 0.028 thanks to topics on this forum, but there is no difference in the operation of the van, I checked my tps sensor with the parameters of the 87 service manual and everything matches, so how can I check the signals from the ecu to the sensor? Or do I have to change my sensor even if it complies with the values ​​in the service manual?

I use the translator but I hope I make myself understood, thank you very much 🙏

updating check voltage at terminals E1 - IDL and PSW-E1 on the ecu, everything is correct, to exist continuity from the ecu to the tps harness terminals.

output voltages at harness terminals:

PSW: 11.50
E1: 0.04
LDI: 11.15

Are those voltages correct?

[Ian R.]

I set the TPS in the van this weekend, and it cleared the 5-1 code that had been having.