How to replace your ball joints in about 2 hours (2wd)

[timsrv]

Have you ever got an estimate from a shop to replace ball joints? If so, then you know this isn't a cheap job. What they don't want you to know is with a small investment in parts and a couple hrs labor, they can make over $500 profit. I changed the ball joints on my 89 2wd cargo van today, and I'm going to show you how it's done. I timed the job from start to finish and took some step by step pics. As many of you know I'm a strong advocate for Genuine Toyota parts, but there are also several parts I don't think make enough difference to justify the additional expense. IMO ball joints are one of the latter. For the record, Toyota part numbers for these are 43350-29076 (uppers) with an MSRP of $38.86 each (84-89 van 2wd) & 43330-29545 (lowers) with an MSRP of $58.20 each. (that's $194.12 for 2 uppers and 2 lowers :no:). For this job I went to RockAuto.com and purchased the Bech-Arnley replacements for a fraction of the price. The part numbers are #1014056 (uppers) at $12.01 each, & #1014023 (lowers) at $21.79 each. There was also $9.05 in shipping bringing the total to $76.65 for everything :dance: . RockAuto.com is quick and shipping typically only takes 2 or 3 days :D . Okay, before getting started I wanted to point out I did not follow the manual, so you may find some discrepancies (if you reference that). My goal was to do the job as quick and easy as possible, so I took some short cuts. For this write-up, I skipped the part of jacking up and removing the tires. I figured if you can't do that, then you shouldn't be attempting this job either :nono:.

Removing the shock absorbers is step #1, but since that's pretty self explanatory I'll start here:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/01-3.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/02-2.jpg

After shock has been removed, take out the 4 nuts holding the lower ball joint on & tap the bolts up and out of the way.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/03-2.jpg

Next take out the cotter pins and remove the castellated nuts from both upper and lower joints.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/04-2.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/05-2.jpg

You'll need a pickle fork and a BFH (big hammer) for this next part. If you don't have a pickle fork, you should be able to find at most auto parts stores or you could probably rent one. Anyhow, position the pickle fork as shown and start giving it some big whacks. Just be ready to catch it when it comes loose because you don't want your rubber brake line to be damaged by the sudden stress caused by a falling spindle assy. I recommend having a few blocks of wood laying around and some wire for tying it up for support while you work on the next step.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/07-2.jpg

Now that the steering knuckle is removed from the upper joint and the spindle assy is supported, you can remove the four bolts and remove the upper ball joint.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/08-2.jpg

Install the new upper ball joint.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/09-2.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/10-2.jpg

Okay, the way I do this, there's too much stuff in the way to use the pickle fork on the lower joint. When I did the job one side was stuck and needed some help, but the other side was loose and came right out. If you have a stuck lower joint, it's a bit of a problem because with the spindle assy hanging there, there's nothing solid to support it while beating with a hammer. What I did is stacked some 4x4 wood chuncks under the rotor, then used a long drift punch to go through the upper steering knuckle hole and onto the shaft of the lower joint. I applied a little heat to the area around the shaft with my torch (not nearly enough to make it glow), then one good whack and it was off (sorry, no pictures of that part).
Okay, here's the next step. Install the shaft of the new lower joint into the spindle assy and snug up the nut until the joint shaft seats on the tapered bore.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/11-2.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/12-1.jpg

Position the shaft of the upper joint so the angle lines up with the angle of the bore in the knuckle. Lift the spindle assy up and insert the upper joint shaft into the bore. Have the nut ready and start it on the threads to support the spindle assy.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/13-1.jpg

Now grab your ratchet and snug the nut until the shaft is seated against the tapered bore.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/14-1.jpg

Okay, this next part can be a little fun. You'll need a large slot tip screwdriver to pry against the side of the joint in an attempt to align the bolt holes with the bolts. With a little bit of prying and pushing you'll get it close enough to push the outboard bolts through the holes.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/15-1.jpg

Now put the washers and nuts on them and snug them up (not too tight, you may still need to adjust).
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/16-1.jpg

Now that the outboard nuts are on, use a jack under the lower control arm to lift until another bolt drops through. You should only need to move the lower arm about 1/2". If the bolt doesn't drop by then, stop and tap it from the top until it drops through the hole. When enough threads are there, start the nut / washer and tighten until the other side is close enough to put do the same. Tighten the nuts a little at a time switching from side to side to keep the pressure even.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/17-1.jpg

There it is, almost done!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/18-1.jpg

Put the final torque on all the nuts & install the cotter keys.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/19-1.jpg

Grease the zerks (only needs about 5 or 6 pumps each) Note: lower joints have no zerks
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/20-1.jpg

Now the only thing left is to reinstall your shocks, put the tires back on, and take it off the jack stands. Don't forget to torque lugs to 100 ft lbs and set your tire pressure according to tire manufacturer's recommendations. Remember anytime this type of front suspension work is done it's strongly recommended to have an alignment done ASAP. So be sure to set up a front end alignment and you shouldn't drive your van unless you're driving it straight to the alignment place. Tim

[joshuafields]

Hi Tim,

Thanks so much for taking the time to post this! It's a big help. I'm getting ready to do a bunch of procedures (upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, shocks, and all control arm bushings), none of which I've done before. Is there anything else you'd add to the list while I have the front end ripped apart?

Also, slightly off topic, what do you think about these control arm bushings?

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1989/toyota/van/suspension/control_arm_bushing.html

They're significantly cheaper than the OEM bushings from 1sttoyotaparts.com. However, they only list one upper bushing, and I know there are two uppers on each side. 1sttoyota lists these as different part numbers; could I just buy two of this one part for each upper control arm, or would that not work?

Thanks and I'm happy to see this new site!

Josh

[timsrv]

Hi Josh and welcome to the site! It sounds like you are taking on quite a bit all at once. There are other moving parts in the front suspension that you don't mention, but you're addressing the ones that most often need attention. The bushings you choose will affect performance, but probably not real noticeable unless you switch to a hard material like polyurethane. If you choose a harder material (like urethane), the typical result is better handling but less insulation between you and the road. There is a strong argument for this on sports cars and racing vehicles, but not so much on passenger vans. Unless you plan on using the van for competition or plan on driving it in a harsh manner, IMO hard bushings would be a waste of money and may even make the van less comfortable for you and your passengers. An exception for this argument would be the sway bar bushings. If available for a reasonable price, you may consider an upgrade to polyurethane here. Hard bushings in this area won't transmit much (if any) noise or vibrations, but will improve the "dive" you get during hard cornering.

When it comes to ride comfort, shock absorbers are also very important on the van (arguably one of the most important of all front suspension components). This is due to the "forward control" design of the van. On most passenger vehicles the passengers sit further away from the wheels. With the van, the driver and front passenger sit right on top of them..........and this means front suspension problems are much more noticeable in a van.

As for your question regarding the aftermarket parts, I have no experience with that brand, so I can't speak for them. As a general rule, if the price is good, I'll usually take a chance with these type parts, and so far I've been pretty lucky.

Here is a parts break-down with part numbers for the front suspension parts. As you mentioned in your post, there are different part numbers for the front and rear upper control arm bushings (please note the orange highlighted areas):

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/frontsuspension.jpg

According to the descriptions in the link you provided, it looks like they have the lower control arm bushing and the upper front. The fact that they list the lower one as "front lower" doesn't instill a lot of confidence as there is only one lower control arm bushing (no front & back). Too bad they don't have "vehicle specific" images. For that price, I guess it's worth a shot. If they end up sending you the wrong one I guess it's no great loss. I checked www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com) for you and see they have a lower one (the only van control arm bushing they sell). It's RAYBESTOS Part #5651344 and it sells for $24.79. As for the upper rear control arm bushings, you may need to call around to see what's available. I checked with www.1stToyotaParts.com (http://www.1stToyotaParts.com) and see that bushing (Toyota Part #48635-27030) has been changed to part #48635-28040 and sells for $47.98 (assuming it's still available). Good luck with your search & please report back with the ones you purchased, where you got them, and your impression on quality.

One word of caution: before you remove your control arms be sure to back-off the torsion bars all the way. There can be a lot of energy in a "loaded" torsion bar, so be careful & make sure all torsion bar tension is completely removed before disassembly. As for other parts to replace / repair while in this area, I would recommend repacking your wheel bearings and checking your brakes. These front calipers have a tendency to get sticky slide pins. When that happens your brakes get squishy and the pads wear unevenly (heavy wear on the inside edge of the pads, but not so much on the outside). If there's any doubt about your calipers or pads, just replace them and be done with it. Take a good look at your rubber brake lines too and replace if they are cracking or if you see any bulges. I prefer genuine Toyota when it comes to pads, but I wouldn't hesitate to purchase the cheapest calipers I could find. Good luck and have fun with your suspension. Tim

PS: Make sure your strut bar bushings are tight and don't forget to take the van in for a front end alignment immediately after you do the work.

[joshuafields]

Thanks so much for the thorough response, Tim! That's a lot of good information to consider. I'm wondering about the shocks I was going to get; maybe I should upgrade. I'm on a very tight budget (hence why I'm attempting all this myself instead of paying the mechanic $1500). I'm ordering most parts through RockAuto. I was going to get the cheapest front shocks they have, the Monro-Matic Plus for $16 each. Being that my budget is so tight, how strongly would you recommend the KYB Gas-A-Just at $40 each? That's about a $50 difference for the pair.

Also, regarding the link to the PartsGeek bushings -- two of the bushings on that page are listed as 4wd, two as 2wd. So for my 2wd, they only have two options - one front upper and one front lower. It seems like the two front upper bushings are different sizes, which makes me think I can't just order two of their front upper bushings (part W0133-1753595) for each upper control arm. Do you concur?
I emailed the PartsGeek customer service also, so we'll see if they get back to me with some useful info.

[timsrv]

The front and rear upper control arm bushings are definitely different and would not interchange. The rear bushing is the big one that takes most of the force. This is due to the torsion bar's attach point and it needs extra surface area to handle the load.

It's certainly possible that they have mislabeled these bushings and you will end up with both uppers???.....then again probably not. It's a total gamble in my opinion. Good luck with talking to them. Even if they respond it's not likely they'll be of any help.

I have not tried Monroe Matics for this application so I can't comment on performance. I suspect there are other members here that have, so hopefully they will chime in. I have run KYB's and Gabriels on the front of the van. I liked the KYB's, but not too impressed with the Gabriels. Tim

[joshuafields]

Thanks again, Tim. No word yet from the PartsGeek people; I'll keep you posted.

If you have the time, there were a couple questions that came up in researching these parts. The OEM control arm bushing numbers I came up with prior to your post were:

Front bushing (upper control arm): 48632-27010
Rear bushing (upper control arm): 48635-28010
Lower control arm bushing: 48061-27011 (replaces 27010)

1stToyotaParts has these, as well as the part numbers listed on your exploded illustration. Could they be for different years? My van is an 89 LE.

Also, I hope it's not too much to ask, but do you have an exploded illustration/part numbers for the sway bar bushing and the strut arm cushion/bushing?

Thanks so much -- if you have any questions regarding something I know a good deal about, like homebrewing beer for instance, I'd be happy to return the favor!

Josh

[timsrv]

Josh, I pulled the EPC break-downs for an 89 LE 2wd van, but it's always best to look-up by entering a VIN number. If you get me your VIN, I'll check both of the break-downs in question and I'll post a snap-shot here for you. If the information changes any from the break-down I've already posted I'll update that information as well. Tim

PS: Thanks for the offer on sharing information :thmbup:. I'll PM you if I ever need to know that sort of thing. :drunk::)>:

[joshuafields]

PM sent with the VIN, Tim.

Thanks so much!

[timsrv]

Okay, here's the other break down you requested:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/frontsuspension2.jpg

This one was brought up using your VIN number. I also brought up the other break-down (the one I previously posted) using your VIN and it was the same (same part numbers & everything). Keep in mind the EPC I'm using is a bit out of date and things change. Toyota will sometimes change part numbers for organization reasons, or sometimes even make improvements on replacement parts. If these changes are significant enough, they will often supersede old part numbers with new, yet the parts will all be interchangeable. I don't know if that's what's going on here, but it's a possibility. FWIW, I have often ordered parts using the most recent numbers, only to end up with a NOS original part in a package with old original numbers.

If you have any doubts, call 1stToyotaParts.com or whoever you purchase from and ask them to verify using your VIN before ordering. Tim

[timsrv]

Hey, check these out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-TOYOTA-VAN-NEW-CONTROL-ARM-48610-28021_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26itu Q3dUCIQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63QQ_trksidZp51 97Q2em7QQcategoryZ33583QQitemZ280506605546

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360269387878&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

In the pictures they both appear to be right side uppers, but they are genuine Toyota. What a deal! I went ahead and purchased one of each for spares. Part numbers are slightly different than what the EPC calls for, but I bet they'll interchange. Even if they don't, at the very least I should be able to harvest the bushings and ball joints out of them. These will come in handy when I do my control arm bushings. Looks like he has 2 of the $23 ones and 5 of the $15 ones left. Tim

[joshuafields]

Hi again,

Well, all the parts arrived and I finally got started on replacing the inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, shocks, upper and lower control arm bushings, rubber sway bar bushings, etc.

Things are going ok so far -- I started with the passenger side, and have removed the tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, and lower control arm -- it's going slowly but surely, which feels good because I've never done any of this before. However, I'm having a hell of a time figuring out how to get the upper control arm off! The torsion bar is cranked way down (loose), but the arm doesn't move much. I was able to remove the two nuts that connect the arm to the torsion bar, as well as to loosen the castellated nut on the front end. However, there is the rod that the control arm uses as a pivot, which has two bolts going through it and mounting the arm to the frame -- and those are the problem. I can barely get a wrench back in to grab those bolts, and on the outer side, the nuts are welded to the frame. I can the a closed end wrench on the bolt heads, but have very little room for leverage. Is there a trick here or should I just continue to soak everything with PB Blaster and hope things loosen up enough that I can move the bolts?

(Also, I did remove the rubber dust flap so that everything is exposed -- there's just so little room to get at these nuts!!)

If this is straying too far off topic, feel free to move this to a new thread.

Also, if anyone has any advice about replacing the control arm bushings, bring it on! I have a feeling these are going to be a pain to pop out and push the new ones back in.

Thanks!

[timsrv]

You might get lucky and find another way around it, but I'm pretty sure you will need to remove the entire control arm & shaft assemblies............and that requires removing those shaft bolts that go into the frame. It might not be necessary, but for easy access, I would take off the passenger seat, the engine access panel under it, AND removed the radiator. Once this stuff is out of the way you will have awesome access to the mount bolts. When you get the arm assemblies out on the bench you might be able to rig something up, but I'd probably just take the arm assemblies down to a shop that has a press (and pay them to press out the old bushings and the new ones in). They probably wouldn't charge much for that, but if you're on a tight budget you might want to call and ask how much $$$ 1st. I'm guessing around $75 to do both sides (and I'd consider it money well spent...........considering the hassles of trying to do yourself without the proper equipment). Good luck. Tim

[joshuafields]

Well, I'm still working on this project with the van... it's taking a while, doing all this between other obligations. Luckily I've been able to borrow a car when I need it, or take the subway.
I started working on the control arm bushings, after finally getting the upper one removed. I was able to get all of the bushings out of the passenger side control arms, with the aid of a screwdriver, big hammer, and vice. It went pretty well, but I did crush a retainer on on of the bushings (thin metal piece which inserts into the center of the bushing and holds the washers in place). I know someone on another forum had posted these part numbers, but that forum seems to be out of service at the moment. Tim, or someone else with access to a part numbers catalog -- is there any way I might be able to trouble you for the part numbers for these retainers for each of the upper control arm bushings? Sorry to be a pain!

Thanks!

[timsrv]

I'd be happy to do this but I'm not exactly sure what parts you're talking about. Is there any way you could post a picture of the damaged items? Tim

[joshuafields]

Thanks Tim!

These first two photos show the front upper bushing (the smaller one on the upper arm) that I removed from the van (looks healthy, eh?). The part I'm asking about is the crumpled piece of metal.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030080.jpg


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030081.jpg


These pics show the new front upper bushing installed on the upper control arm. However, the part I'm asking about is missing (since I crushed it). It would insert through the washer hole and into the end of the bushing to hold the washer in place.


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030082.jpg


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030083.jpg

Since the crumpled piece of metal is pretty hard to read, I'm also posting pics of the new rear upper bushing, installed on the upper control arm. You can see that the part I'm asking about is installed here, between the heavy washer and the nut. The shape of the part is kind of like a tee-nut -- it goes through the washer hole and into the end of the bushing, to lock the washer in place.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030086.jpg


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f130/joshuamfields/P1030084.jpg



If it's not too much trouble, I would love to have the part numbers for each of these retainers -- the two for the front upper bushing, and the two for the rear upper bushing. The lower arm bushing didn't have these parts.

Because the metal on these is so thin and susceptible to damage, this seems like a part that anyone changing their bushings should purchase (obviously, they don't come with the new bushings).

[timsrv]

That's odd. In your 1st picture, the part thats crumpled looks like part of the bushing. As you can see in the snapshot I posted above, there are no parts shown like the one you are describing. There's the bushing, the big washer, a lock washer, the nut, and a cotter key. I looked at one of my new a-arms and it seems to verify this. Of course I can't know for sure without taking it apart, but there doesn't appear to be any parts there other than the ones shown on the break-down. Tim

PS: Here's some pics of the same area of one of my new a-arms:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_0288.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_0287.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_0289.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/timsrv/TVT%20pics/suspension/IMG_0291.jpg

[joshuafields]

Hmm... that is strange. The bushings on your new arm look like they are more the style of the lower arm bushings that I have, with no retainers necessary. The parts I'm describing definitely pop out of the old bushings, and fit into the center holes of the new bushings. If these parts are really not available, I may be able to get by if I buy a new outer washer with a hole exactly the size of the threaded 'rod'.
I'm pretty sure someone in a control arm bushing replacement thread on the old forum listed these part numbers, but that site seems to still be down.

[joshuafields]

Well, I was able to find the info I was looking for, as the other forum I mentioned is back up and running:

I purchased the retainers (for the uppers) just in case the old ones were deformed:

Front retainer: 90948-02049
Rear retainer: 90948-02048

1stoyotaparts.com lists these as:

RETAINER, CUSHION [Part# 9094802049] $3.30
RETAINER, CUSHION [Part# 9094802048] $4.43

Tim, do you have any input on this? Do these numbers allow you to pull up an image of the parts?

[timsrv]

Sorry for the late reply. I've been out of state for Christmas and just returned.

That's great you were able to find this info over at TVP. They are a great resource and I'm happy they're still with us. Unfortunately I get no returns when I enter those part numbers. It's possible they did something different for a while, but eventually did away with this to standardize their inventory. Even though I couldn't find doesn't mean they don't exist. I'd try a Toyota dealer and see what they can come up with. Please let us know what you find out. I know it sucks for you, but it could save the next guy some headaches. Tim

[KenVan]

Tim, I have a question. After installing the new ball joints, was it harder to turn the steering wheel? Because when I finished installing everything I try turning the steering wheel, with the front end up the air and with the engine off, I found it very hard to turn the wheel. Is this normal because I need to brake in the new ball joints? Thanks.

Kenny.

[timsrv]

I wouldn't expect there to be any noticeable difference in steering wheel resistance. Be sure to recheck everything to make sure its all correct. Don't take any chances here. If it doesn't seem right have it checked out by a professional before driving. Tim

[KenVan]

Thanks Tim.

+1 on checking everything.

I have another question. When the wheel turn does the shaft of the ball joint rotate with the steering knuckle or does the steering knuckle spin independently of the ball joint shaft? I'm thinking that if the shaft does rotate with the steering knuckle it would make sense that there would be greater resistance.

Kenny.

[timsrv]

Yes, the shaft of the ball joint rotates with the steering knuckle. And yes, new ball joints would have more resistance than worn ones. But, considering the mechanical advantage you get with the steering wheel, I would think this increased resistance would be hard to identify. Just how much more resistance is there? Is there any noise associated with turning the wheel?

[KenVan]

There is huge difference in resistance compared to the old ball joints and there is no noise at all.

I decided to finish it and button up everything. I drove it around my neighborhood and everything seems fine. Under power steering the wheel turned just like it did before.

One thing still bother me is the quality of the ball joints I got off eBay. I purchased the ball joints from WorldSuspension on eBay and they sent me some Chinese made parts manufactured by DLZ. I did some goggling and found out that WorldSuspension is basically a junk supplier. Anyone here have experience with their product? I should have other from Rock Auto. :doh:

Hey Tim, What would happen if I didn't get an alignment done? The worst I can think off is premature tire wear and poor handling.

Thanks.

[timsrv]

Hey Tim, What would happen if I didn't get an alignment done? The worst I can think off is premature tire wear and poor handling.

Thanks.

That's true.........but then why bother replacing worn ball joints? The up side to having the front aligned is having the alignment tech checking things out for you. Just tell him you replaced the ball joints and ask that he inspect your work as he's aligning. I'm not sure about your area, but here an alignment at Les Schwab costs $50 and if no adjustments are required it's free. It never hurts to have an extra set of eyes check things out.......especially an experienced set. I would highly recommend you get an alignment. Tim

[slimlavud]

Hi Tim

New guy here, from London, UK.
I have a 1993 Toyota Townace, 2WD, auto diesel, with power steering and no ABS, right-hand-drive, imported from Japan in 2003. I need to change all my upper control arm bushings - they are down to the metal and clonking on the left side and they failed the inspection here (the MOT we call it - Ministry of Transport test). I have searched the world by Internet - hours and hours - trying to find the bushes cheaper than the Toyota price - the set here in UK are £170 approx! I have tracked down poly bush replacements in Australia but they are about the same price when you put shipping in.
I found the smaller front bushes at www.carpartsdiscount.com for $6.85 plus tax and shipping - a lot cheaper than the $30 each UK price - I have these as part number 48632 28030.
I have the rear (bigger) ones as part number 48635-28040 and the nearest I can find on this site, is for the Toyota Van, 1985. www.carpartsdiscount.com have them as 48635 28010 - do you think, or could you kindly check for me, that they are the same?
The carpartsdiscount numbers are: front: 84726 (with 48632 28030 alongside in the listing), and for the rear: 84732 (with 48635 28010 alongside).
I have made a detailed tech drawing of the parts with all the measurements and could email that to you if you might be able to check them against some old/new ones that you might have. As an mechanic/engineer, I was always taught that if it is a different number, it will not fit but I know that OEMs change part numbers over the years...
I would really appreciate your help!
Thanks, Simon

[timsrv]

Hi and welcome to the forum. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the UK market so I really don't know what's interchangeable. Here in the states we got the Vanwagons from 84-89. Then from 91-97 we got the Previas (which are a completely different body animal). I believe that in 93 the UK Townace is very similar to our earlier Vanwagons, but I couldn't tell you what parts may or may not interchange. Sorry :dizzy:. Tim

PS: Perhaps another member from the UK will chime in to help out.

[slimlavud]

Thanks for the reply Tim.
We don't have actual UK Townaces, they are all 'grey' imports - brought in (from Japan mainly) by dealers/privateers/imdependent importers.
I have found some very cheap places in the US for these bushes, Car Discount Parts and now: http://www.all-toyotaparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&yearid=1986@@1986&makeid=76@@Toyota&modelid=8202%3AED%7C451%3ADT%7C7@@Van&catid=241464@@Suspension&subcatid=241504@@Control+Arm+Bushing&mode=PD

When I order and get the parts, I will try and do a photo write up of the job of replacing upper inner control arm bushes if you like?
Slim

[slimlavud]

Thanks so much for the thorough response, Tim! That's a lot of good information to consider. I'm wondering about the shocks I was going to get; maybe I should upgrade. I'm on a very tight budget (hence why I'm attempting all this myself instead of paying the mechanic $1500). I'm ordering most parts through RockAuto. I was going to get the cheapest front shocks they have, the Monro-Matic Plus for $16 each. Being that my budget is so tight, how strongly would you recommend the KYB Gas-A-Just at $40 each? That's about a $50 difference for the pair.

Also, regarding the link to the PartsGeek bushings -- two of the bushings on that page are listed as 4wd, two as 2wd. So for my 2wd, they only have two options - one front upper and one front lower. It seems like the two front upper bushings are different sizes, which makes me think I can't just order two of their front upper bushings (part W0133-1753595) for each upper control arm. Do you concur?
I emailed the PartsGeek customer service also, so we'll see if they get back to me with some useful info.

Hi Joshua

I saw your post on the forum abut how you bought these bushings from PartsGeek, by the numbers I am pretty sure they are MTC brand bushes. I am just about to replace my bushings and wanted to ask you how good are the MTC ones please? Were they a good fit (nice and tight when you pressed them in) and how have they held up? It is a nasty job to replace these so I don't wan to do it twice! If they are inferior, maybe Chinese-made, bushes, I would rather save up and buy the Toyota ones (around $260 here in the UK for the set of upper front and rear). Did they have 'Made in Japan' molded into the rubber etc?

I appreciate this was all a while ago but if you can help, I would appreciate it.
Thanks, Simon

[highwind]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/ThePoliticalThinker/StanceWorks/D157341E-7C80-440E-87ED-D2000501A2C2_zps2nclzthi.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/ThePoliticalThinker/media/StanceWorks/D157341E-7C80-440E-87ED-D2000501A2C2_zps2nclzthi.jpg.html)


apparently lowers have grease fittings now

[timsrv]

Depends on the brand I guess. Which brand did you install?

[highwind]

Depends on the brand I guess. Which brand did you install?
Mevotech :/ waiting at advance auto parts to borrow a pickle fork :/ tie rod end is stressing me out because I can't get it off with a torch and vice grips (probably inexperience) (tie rod design sucks)

ill most likely go toyota oems when money frees up 8 months down the road

[Wonderwagoneina]

Hi everyone, we are currently undertaking this mission and have encountered a roadblock. It seems that the top of the steering knuckle has fused to the bolt at the bottom of the upper ball joint. It was giving us issues (before we saw that it looks fused) so we cut the bolt to get the steering knuckle off the ball joint, it worked but now we have a piece of bolt stuck in the steering knuckle (a little bit coming out the top and about an inch inch and a half out the bottom). We tried heating the area and hammering it out but has not been successful yet. Any ideas? Thank a bunch!

[timsrv]

Now that it's cut and stuck in there, about the only thing left to do is completely remove the steering knuckle and press it out with a hydraulic press. If you don't have access to one, take it to a shop that does (most machine shops and some automotive shops have these). They will likely charge you a little, but probably not much (guessing under $50). Tim

[Wonderwagoneina]

Thanks for the reply. Luckily, we did not have to resort to that. We drilled a hole through the bolt, then heated it with a torch and eventually whacked it out with a hammer. Now, how do you line up the upper ball joint to go the right direction for the steerong knuckle?

[timsrv]

You can do a lot with a jack under the lower control arm. Install the upper joint in the upper control arm 1st then jack/pry as necessary to get the joint bolt to go into the knuckle. Once you have some threads coming out the other side of the knuckle hole, use the nut to draw it on the rest of the way. Tim

[Wonderwagoneina]

Thank you for being so quick on the replies Tim! We got the upper in and attached and the bottom attached to knuckle but the bottom is a good 2-3 inches lower than the control arm so jacking the control arm doesnt seem like it would help? Or maybe im missing something?

[Wonderwagoneina]

The back two can get about half an inch away but the front two are about 2 inches away (with it angled to try to get closer)

[timsrv]

I don't know........It's been so long since I did this last, but don't remember it being difficult. Perhaps it would be easier to mount the lower joint on the lower arm, then jack into position? There's lots of different ways to apply force with the jack, pry bars, etc. Just be careful not to hurt yourself. I'm sure with a little thought and carefully placed leverage you'll get it done. Tim

[Wonderwagoneina]

As usual, you were right Tim. Thank you again for helping us much less experienced :) we ended up putting the jack between the two control arms and used it to lower the control arm to reach enough to put a bolt in, then the rest were pretty easy. Your two hour task took us three days to do half :roflmao: now to do the other side on monday, but it should be much faster and easier now.

[timsrv]

As usual, you were right Tim. Thank you again for helping us much less experienced :) we ended up putting the jack between the two control arms and used it to lower the control arm to reach enough to put a bolt in, then the rest were pretty easy. Your two hour task took us three days to do half :roflmao: now to do the other side on monday, but it should be much faster and easier now.

Lol, yes, I'm sure you'll fly through the other side ☺. These things always come easier with a little experience. Even though it was such a PITA I think you'll find there's much more satisfaction when you do things like this yourself..........at least there is for me. Tim

[Wonderwagoneina]

Absolutely agree! Its been a great source of learning and of course fun, even when fruatrating. We've successfully done everything ourselves so far (both with zero previous experience or manual driving experience before buying our 86 5speed) we are about to buy a second for parts and body replacements (ie windshield, driver side door after hitting an elk) :clap:

[filterway]

Hi all!

I have the big job to remove the 2 lower control arm on my 1988 4wd van. I have to remove the lower control arm form the lower ball joint.

I tried to rent a ball joint separator, but the fork is too smal, it can't go around the upper part of the ball joint. I tried in vain to hit with a hammer, nothing happen. I removed the 4 screws that retain the ball joint, niet, nada, nothing happens, impossible to separate this part also.

I'm out of idea.... i don't want to heat the ball joint because it still good. I tried zip gun, nothing happened...

Someone have an idea how to remove the lower control arm from the ball joint?

5828

[jdweasel47]

First, spray everything liberally with penetrating oil (Like PB Blaster) Next, put the nut on bottom ball joint stud at least 5 threads, just don't let the stud be exposed through the nut. Last, hit HARD with a BFH or large ball-penn Hammer. It should budge. If you mangle the ball joint---that's ok----especially if it is from 1988 or you don't know when it was last changed---it needs to be replaced. A pretty decent quality Brand New MEVOTECH part (I have used MEVOTECH on Several cars/trucks---quite good) is less than $25 with shipping per side.

good luck





MEVOTECH GK9529 Original Grade Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5563365&cc=1279818)

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/ca.gif (https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=2#FLAGS)Front Right Lower; Van Wagon







https://www.rockauto.com/info/143/GK9529_FRO__ra_t.jpg





$18.08










MEVOTECH GK9531 Original Grade Info (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5563368&cc=1279818)
Front Left Lower

https://www.rockauto.com/Images/mobile/red_clock_10_10_delay.png1 Day Delay






https://www.rockauto.com/info/143/GK9531_FRO__ra_t.jpg





$14.72

[filterway]

well, these are very cheap!! i just bought this morning those from AC DElco on Rockauto.com... very more expensive... i hope they are very good comparing those at 14 and 18$!

Finally i decided to cut the tie-rod... now my project can go on ;-)

Now i have the 2 lower arm in my hands, 100$ question: Bushings looks good (no play). They are probably genuine from 1988... is it better to change all 4 or if they are good, don't touch it?

[jdweasel47]

From what I know, the upper A arm is in action and wears a lot more than the lower, if the lower looks good, i would leave it. If you have the "squeak, squeak, squeak" every hard brake, bump in the road---those are likely the upper bushings being perished.

[Wizardtom]

Just FYI I decided that since I didn't have a torch and drift punch, I would remove the lower joint first. While the upper still in place helped to hold up and stabilize I was able to rest the lower part here as shown and it had the right angle (may have to move steering wheel to get the right spot) to wedge tight enough to pickle fork it out.

6394

Now my question #1 is regarding the wording in the manual as far as tension of the nuts/bolt.

it says under lower ball joint "To install, reverse the removal process. Tighten the ball joint-to-upper control arm bolts 22ft/lb (2WD van), the upper ball joint to steering knuckle nut to 58ft/lb. It is confusing me because it is talking about "upper ball joint". Is it meaning the upper nut on the lower ball joint (the castle nut)?

And again on under upper ball joint it says "Tighten the ball joint-to-upper control arm bolts 22ft/lb (2wd van), the ball joint-to-lower control arm bolts to 49ft/lb (van), and the lower ball-joint-to-steering knuckle nut to 76ft/lb (2wd van).

Using the terms upper on the lower joint and lower and the upper joint is making me really unsure. Can anyone clarify this?

Question #2 is that the main poster says "Grease the zerks (only needs about 5 or 6 pumps each) Note: lower joints have no zerks" HOWEVER, mine is the exact opposite. I have NO zerk on my upper joint but I have one on the lower joint. This goes for the old ones as well as the new. What gives?

[Burntboot]

Don't worry so much about the pictures, just follow the words, the small bolts that hold the joints into the control arms are 22ftlbs, the large nut on the ball joint studs would be : upper - 58ftlbs, lower 76ft lbs.
As yours is 2WD you only need to concern yourself with the numbers that apply

Pickle forks have their uses but should only be used when you are disposing of the joint in question, forks can damage both the boot and the stud.
I reserve the fork as a last ditch effort and rely on the 2-hammer method whenever possible.
Pry bars are also really handy for moving suspension when trying to get things to align but is important to remember that everything could be under tension and if it escapes or gets loose, bad things usually occur so remember to be extra careful when removing bolts or levering parts.

As far as zerks go, grease anything you can and if it doesn't have a zerk, it doesn't need greasing.

[Wizardtom]

I'm more confused than ever now. Why in the world are they telling me the upper 58ftlbs number in the lower ball joint section and the lower 76ftlbs in the upper ball joint section of the book? Are you sure you didn't confuse those?

[jdweasel47]

To be honest, the difference between 58 ft pounds and 76 ft pounds is 1-2 clicks on on the torque wrench, a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn with a socket. Plus, you need to slightly over/under tighten any stud with a castle nut to make the cotter pin hole line up with the nut. So if you want piece of mind, tighten to 50 lbs with the torque wrench and then turn a 1/8-1/4 turn farther to line up the cotter pin. that will be more than sufficient.

[Burntboot]

Anything is possible and my wife often accuses me of being confused :)

I don't have your manual in front of me so I'm just interpreting your understanding of what you read.
Service manuals were intended to be used by factory trained technicians, as a result they aren't always as user friendly as might be desired.
All this is further complicated by language. Japanese cars were built in Japan, the manuals were translated from Japanese and sometimes details can get disoriented.

Torque specs are a function of stud size.
The factory manual should have a page that lists torque specs for generic bolt diameters.
So one could always mic the studs and select the torque appropriate, but in this case close is gonna work.

For what its worth, 50ftlbs is damned tight, 75lbs is friggin tight.
Said another way, an average person can pull 50lbs with a decent 1/2"drive (10in long) ratchet but would need a johnson bar (16in long) to pull 75lbs

JDW's method will certainly get you close enough, the only thing to remember about castellated nuts is NEVER back them off to align the cotter hole.

[captainspeky]

Dang it. Does this thing thread out or simply slide out. Been fighting with it for a few days with no progress...

[Carbonized]

Are you talking about the cam bolt? It is your camber adjustment so it should only rotate a few degrees, if you take the nut off it should slide out. If its not moving after 2 days of WD40 and air impact wrench, the thing has rusted all the way through the bushing! Im afraid you have to go radical! Wrecking yards recommend the Oxyacetylene wrench. I can get away with my Saw-saw wrench but needs a new blade for each bolt and a lot of WD40 for cooling. After you get the arm off the van you can try a press or sacrifice and replace the bushing. New at rockauto.com or toyotapartsdeal.com

[captainspeky]

Thanks. Yea, it's a swarthy old parts van that's been parked for 10 years or so. It's a little crusty underneath, but no barnacles. I doubt (hope) it's not rusted through the rubber. I got the nut and cam washer off with little fuss, but the bolt is no-go. I was going to just swap out the whole lower control arm since it had nice stock ball joints and a newish rotor, but there's always a few rusty bolts that slow things down. I'll try to wd40 a bit more before I whack it again. Might not be worth the trouble.

While I have your attention, how in the hell do you remove or separate the inner and outer tie rods????

[Carbonized]

The bushing has a compression tube a the center, it is fused to the rubber. The bolt in turn rust itself to the compression tube, (the flat sided shank of the bolt allows water all the way into the tube). If you only need the ball joint, it should be a lot less of a fight to remove them from the lower arms with chisels and wedges, not hammering from under.
As for the tie rod, I'm not familiar with the 2WD but the manual shows the use of special tool: SST 09610-20012 to disconnect it from the knuckle arm. I havent had to mess with tie rods yet on my 4WD. Maybe somebody else can help?

[Burntboot]

Captain - Outer tie rod needs to be split from the spindle, a pickle fork will work but only if the joint is scrap as the fork will destroy the boot.
If you want to reuse the joint, the 2-hammer method is your best bet

The inner and outer are joined by threading into each other, with a pinch bolt to lock it all together.
The inner is threaded onto the rack ends itself, bend back the locking tab washers and it should just be 2 wrenches from there.

WD40 is not the best penetrant for battling rusted bits
Seafoams deep creep or PB blaster are better choices, both work well or even just some ATF in a squirt can will vastly outperform the WD

[captainspeky]

Thanks. Got the outer ball joint undone with some hammering.

I've been brushing "must for rust" (phosphoric acid) on to the ends of bolts and letting it sit prior to adding penetrating oil. Seems to work pretty well.

[extempo]

Does anyone have an alternate source for the strut bar bushings mentioned earlier in this thread, Toyota Part #48674-22021?

My mechanic says mine need to be replaced to get the alignment proper, and the local Toyota dealership wants $27 each! Over a hundred bucks for the 4 that are necessary is insane.

[ChetsJug]

I replaced my rack and pinion after a minor argument with a center divider, newly built ("I've been driving this road 20 years, where the hell did THAT thing come from"). I also changed my lower ball joints, tie rod ends and Sway Bar rubber. Upon assembling the whole thing we discovered I had a bent part after all. The right side spindle arm to the tie rod is bent to the point there is a gap. We pulled it down pretty tight but there's still a small gap and I'm afraid it will snap the bolt soon. At Pick-Your-Part Sun Valley CA there a pretty much stripped to oblivion 1985 van. There is a spindle but I don't want to buy the wrong one. All my searching on the net for parts numbers all I come up with is a used spindle for 1987-1999 vans. Knowing most people on ebay don't know numbers, WILL the spindle fit my van? I cant find it under auto parts websites. Seems it's not a parts store item.

In the alternative is there a way to band the cast back into shape? I know it can be done but don't know the limits or tricks.

OR does anyone have a spindle they want to part with ( I posted in "Wanted")


the top pic is the left side straight pic
the 2 bottom is the right side bent with gap...




https://imgur.com/a/yWJ6rC5

(https://imgur.com/a/yWJ6rC5)

[89MasterAce]

Hi all!

I have the big job to remove the 2 lower control arm on my 1988 4wd van. I have to remove the lower control arm form the lower ball joint.

I tried to rent a ball joint separator, but the fork is too smal, it can't go around the upper part of the ball joint. I tried in vain to hit with a hammer, nothing happen. I removed the 4 screws that retain the ball joint, niet, nada, nothing happens, impossible to separate this part also.

I'm out of idea.... i don't want to heat the ball joint because it still good. I tried zip gun, nothing happened...

Someone have an idea how to remove the lower control arm from the ball joint?

5828

I have the exact same problem with my lower ball joint. All four bolts connecting it to the steering knuckle are out, but the ball joint won't move at all. Did you end up getting your ball joint disconnected from the steering knuckle? How?

[timsrv]

It's best to only remove the big nut. Leave the 4 small bolts installed (to help with stability), then use the correct size pickle fork and a BFG (Big F______ Hammer). Once the tapered shaft is broken loose, then remove the 4 smaller bolts. I have never had one that did not come off by the 3rd or 4th blow..........but you gotta hit it hard. When you use a pickle fork it will likely damage the grease boot, so if you're not planning to replace the ball joint, you might try to find a new boot ahead of time. Tim

[Carbonized]

If you want to save the boot,You could try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-15036-Reversible-Ratcheting-Construction/dp/B0868ZGYX7/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=pulley+puller+tool&qid=1652791378&sr=8-8 Make sure you soak the tapered shaft from top and bottom with PB Blaster for at least 24 hrs over and over again adding a little pressure on the tool each time. Also Drill a little dimple at the end of the shaft and grind the the threaded rod of the tool into a shallow cone. Use rubber bands or a big hose clamp to keep the tool in place. Finally I would keep the nut at the end of the ball joint shaft to contain any squashing and because when that thing let go it could be violent. Hope that help.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ZcY-INRSL._AC_UL320_.jpg

[89MasterAce]

It's best to only remove the big nut. Leave the 4 small bolts installed (to help with stability), then use the correct size pickle fork and a BFG (Big F______ Hammer). Once the tapered shaft is broken loose, then remove the 4 smaller bolts. I have never had one that did not come off by the 3rd or 4th blow..........but you gotta hit it hard. When you use a pickle fork it will likely damage the grease boot, so if you're not planning to replace the ball joint, you might try to find a new boot ahead of time. Tim

Thanks Tim! Turns out I just needed a bigger f______ hammer. I put the four bolts back in and the ball joint separated after about 15 hits. NOW to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle!

Carbon, I'm definitely replacing the ball joints. I think they're 1989 originals.

[Carbonized]

BFH always wins. I saved and rebuilt my 89's they where in an amazingly good shape. I always try not to go Neanderthal, if I can help it, but sometime you've got to do what you've got to do.:wnk:. I have pictures of my rebuilt ones before and after somewhere in here.

[timsrv]

Lol, next time I'm sure you'll start out with the bigger BFG (reference the 6th pic in the 1st post of this thread). It's hard to hit it straight on and hard, but once you get the hang of it they come off pretty quick. BTW, the 1st one or 2 hits are moderate (just to get the pickle fork set/jammed into place), then I stand back, both hands on the hammer and go for the grand slam :lol:. Tim